文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Oxalis are annual or perennial plants. The leaves are divided into three to ten or more obovate and top notched leaflets, arranged palmately with all the leaflets of roughly equal size. The majority of species have three leaflets; in these species, the leaves are superficially similar to those of some clovers.
The flowers have five petals, which are usually fused at the base, and ten stamens. The petal color varies from white to pink, red or yellow. The fruit is a small capsule containing several seeds.
Oxalis can be grown indoors as a houseplant or outdoors in the garden. They from the garden center are generally available in the fall or early spring.
Growing Conditions
Light: Oxalis need bright indirect light to grow well and produce flowers. They can often bloom all winter if kept in a sunny spot.
Water: Keep the soil of a Oxalis barely moist but never soggy; allow the top 2 inches (5 cm) of soil to dry out before watering. It’s best to water a Oxalis from the bottom so that the thin fragile stems of the plant don’t get water logged and the soil stays loose.
Temperature: They grow best in cool temperatures between 60ºF to 70ºF (15ºC to 21ºC) during the day and 55ºF to 65ºF (13ºC to 18ºC) at night.
Soil: The soil for a Oxalis should be loose and sandy rather than rich and organic.
Fertilizer: Feed a Oxalis monthly in the spring and summer when it is actively growing with a basic houseplant food at ½ the recommended strength. Never feed a Oxalis when it is dormant and the bulbs are resting.
Potting and Repotting
The Oxalis doesn’t need a big container as it’s rather dense and compact for its size. The original potting will be easy and repotting after that won’t have to be done too much after unless you want to change up the pot for looks. The plan tends to grow to the side with some white flowers coming out in bunches underneath the purple leaves. As long as the pot gives the plant and roots plenty of room to drain then you’ve done a good job in this process.
Propagation
To propagate the plant, simply split the plant into smaller plants and place them in their own pots. Keep it out of direct sunlight until new shoots appear.
The flowers have five petals, which are usually fused at the base, and ten stamens. The petal color varies from white to pink, red or yellow. The fruit is a small capsule containing several seeds.
Oxalis can be grown indoors as a houseplant or outdoors in the garden. They from the garden center are generally available in the fall or early spring.
Growing Conditions
Light: Oxalis need bright indirect light to grow well and produce flowers. They can often bloom all winter if kept in a sunny spot.
Water: Keep the soil of a Oxalis barely moist but never soggy; allow the top 2 inches (5 cm) of soil to dry out before watering. It’s best to water a Oxalis from the bottom so that the thin fragile stems of the plant don’t get water logged and the soil stays loose.
Temperature: They grow best in cool temperatures between 60ºF to 70ºF (15ºC to 21ºC) during the day and 55ºF to 65ºF (13ºC to 18ºC) at night.
Soil: The soil for a Oxalis should be loose and sandy rather than rich and organic.
Fertilizer: Feed a Oxalis monthly in the spring and summer when it is actively growing with a basic houseplant food at ½ the recommended strength. Never feed a Oxalis when it is dormant and the bulbs are resting.
Potting and Repotting
The Oxalis doesn’t need a big container as it’s rather dense and compact for its size. The original potting will be easy and repotting after that won’t have to be done too much after unless you want to change up the pot for looks. The plan tends to grow to the side with some white flowers coming out in bunches underneath the purple leaves. As long as the pot gives the plant and roots plenty of room to drain then you’ve done a good job in this process.
Propagation
To propagate the plant, simply split the plant into smaller plants and place them in their own pots. Keep it out of direct sunlight until new shoots appear.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
There are two excellent reasons to grow Abutilon species: the flowers or the blooms. In general, the plants feature deeply lobed leaves reminiscent of maple leaves, although these loose-growing shrubs are in no way related to maple trees. Variegated species are grown for their striking, exotic looking leaves, while flowering species have solid green leaves and lovely, pendant flowers in a variety of colors. Although these aren’t the most common houseplants around, extensive work has been done with a handful of species to produce a variety of beautiful cultivars that are prized for their leaf shape and flower color. In terms of culture, these are not particularly difficult plants to grow and prefer a cooler winter room with less water, then warmth and adequate moisture in the summer. For best results, prune the plants to encourage bushiness.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant.
Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting
Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation
Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips
Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant.
Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting
Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation
Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips
Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
The bright orange-to-yellow flowers of Clivia plants add a warm and tropical flair to the landscape. These South African natives produce dark green, sword-shaped leaves that provide a contrasting texture to the foliage of woody evergreen and deciduous plants. Although Clivias grow well in containers in any zone, they thrive when planted outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Clivia plants require partial to full shade and fast-draining loamy soils to produce healthy growth.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Spread a 1-inch (2.5-cm) layer of mulch around the Clivia plant with a rake. Keep the mulch 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) from the base of the plant to avoid rot.
Water the Clivia plant when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil become dry during the active growing season using a garden hose. Keep the soil moist but never soggy. Never water the Clivia to the point that there is standing water on the soil’s surface. Reduce watering in the late fall and winter months when the plant enters dormancy. Water dormant Clivia plants when the top 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) of soil becomes dry.
Fertilize the Clivia with a 6-6-6 nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium formulation slow-release fertilizer every three months during the growing season. Apply at a rate of 1 teaspoon per square foot of soil. Spread the fertilizer in a ring around the Clivia plant, keeping the granules 12 inches (30 cm) from its base. Rake the fertilizer into the top 3 inches (7.5 cm) of soil. Water the area thoroughly. Do not apply fertilizer while the plant is dormant.
Deadhead the Clivia plant in the late spring when the flowers are spent. Cut through the base of the flower stalks with a pair of pruning shears. Make the cut 1/4 inch (6 mm) above the point where the flower stalk joins with the main plant. Discard the spent flowers in a trash bin or on top of a compost pile.
Spray the plant’s foliage periodically with a steady stream of water to wash away dust and grime that may attract harmful insects. Wash the leaves in the early morning hours to give the foliage time to dry before nightfall.
Place slug and snail traps around the base of the plant to stop these pests from feeding on its foliage. Spray horticultural oil or insecticidal soap onto foliage infested with aphids, spider mites or scale.
Propagation
Divide the Clivia plant every three to five years. Dig up the plant in the spring, just after it has finished flowering. Dig in a ring around the plant, 12 inches (30 cm) away from its center with a shovel or trowel. Dig down to a depth of 10 inches (25 cm) and undercut the root ball to free it from the soil. Lift the plant from the ground and brush away excess soil. Pull the plant apart, separating individual stems with a healthy portion of the swollen roots. Replant the divisions, spacing multiple plants 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart. Do not plant Clivia plants deeper than they were previously growing. Water the transplanted Clivia plants thoroughly.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Spread a 1-inch (2.5-cm) layer of mulch around the Clivia plant with a rake. Keep the mulch 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) from the base of the plant to avoid rot.
Water the Clivia plant when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil become dry during the active growing season using a garden hose. Keep the soil moist but never soggy. Never water the Clivia to the point that there is standing water on the soil’s surface. Reduce watering in the late fall and winter months when the plant enters dormancy. Water dormant Clivia plants when the top 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) of soil becomes dry.
Fertilize the Clivia with a 6-6-6 nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium formulation slow-release fertilizer every three months during the growing season. Apply at a rate of 1 teaspoon per square foot of soil. Spread the fertilizer in a ring around the Clivia plant, keeping the granules 12 inches (30 cm) from its base. Rake the fertilizer into the top 3 inches (7.5 cm) of soil. Water the area thoroughly. Do not apply fertilizer while the plant is dormant.
Deadhead the Clivia plant in the late spring when the flowers are spent. Cut through the base of the flower stalks with a pair of pruning shears. Make the cut 1/4 inch (6 mm) above the point where the flower stalk joins with the main plant. Discard the spent flowers in a trash bin or on top of a compost pile.
Spray the plant’s foliage periodically with a steady stream of water to wash away dust and grime that may attract harmful insects. Wash the leaves in the early morning hours to give the foliage time to dry before nightfall.
Place slug and snail traps around the base of the plant to stop these pests from feeding on its foliage. Spray horticultural oil or insecticidal soap onto foliage infested with aphids, spider mites or scale.
Propagation
Divide the Clivia plant every three to five years. Dig up the plant in the spring, just after it has finished flowering. Dig in a ring around the plant, 12 inches (30 cm) away from its center with a shovel or trowel. Dig down to a depth of 10 inches (25 cm) and undercut the root ball to free it from the soil. Lift the plant from the ground and brush away excess soil. Pull the plant apart, separating individual stems with a healthy portion of the swollen roots. Replant the divisions, spacing multiple plants 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart. Do not plant Clivia plants deeper than they were previously growing. Water the transplanted Clivia plants thoroughly.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Including the lipstick vine and basket vine, the Aeschynanthus genus includes remarkable hanging plants with showy red, orange or yellow terminal flowers that emerge from “tubes” which resemble lipstick cases. Better suited to its native rainforest habitat, Aeschynanthus presents a challenge for the indoor gardener. They generally require high humidity and warmth during the summer months, followed by a brief period of cold during the winter to stimulate a bloom.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, strong light, but not direct sunshine.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout spring and summer, and reduce watering in the winter. Don’t let it completely dry out. Very high humidity is preferred. If you’re growing in a basket, you will need to water more frequently during the growing season. However, the exact watering schedule will be party determined by your humidity levels, temperature, and choice of potting media.
Temperature: Keep it warm and humid in the spring and summer, above 65ºF (18ºC). In the winter, a brief period of 55 to 65ºF (13 to 18ºC) will cause inflorescence.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is best. Avoid heavy garden soils, especially if you’re growing the plant in a hanging basket. In general, the lighter the mix, the better, but keep in mind that very light mixes will drain faster and require more frequently watering. Also, it’s a good idea to repot your hanging plants more frequently, as they soil in a hanging basket tends to become exhausted faster than soil in pots.
Fertilizer: When new growth appears in the spring, feed with a controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions. Liquid fertilizers are often best for hanging applications, because they provide a steady supply of food. However, for best effect, make sure to use the fertilizer with every application during the growing season. If it will be challenging to stick to this schedule, sprinkle the soil surface with a good controlled-release fertilizer at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Repotting depends on your container choice. For hanging plants, you should repot in the beginning of every growing season. You can keep the plant in the same basket year after year, but you’ll still need to refresh the soil and, if the plant has become too large, divide it. You can pot the division up separately. If you’re growing in a container, repot either annually or every other year, depending on the size of the plant.
Propagation
Take cuttings in the spring, when the plant resumes normal growth. To successfully root cuttings, use a rooting hormone and provide bottom heat or use a covered rooting container. Take a cutting with several leaves and a length of stem. Strip away the bottom one or two sets of leaves to expose one or two growing nodes. Dip these into rooting hormone (if you’re using it), then bury the cutting and the exposed nodes into a clean potting mix. You can use a seedling mix if you have some on hand. Keep the cutting in a bright, warm place with high humidity. When you start to see new growth, you’ll know the cutting has rooted. Wait until the plant has put out several sets of new leaves before repotting to a more permanent container.
Grower’s Tips
Aeschynanthus are perfect as hanging or trailing plants. They require high humidity and warmth throughout the growing season, as well as strong (but not direct) light. After the season is over, cut the trailing stems back in preparation for another year—otherwise, it will tend toward leginess. Do not spray plants in bloom. These are perfect for a greenhouse, sunroom or conservatory.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, strong light, but not direct sunshine.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout spring and summer, and reduce watering in the winter. Don’t let it completely dry out. Very high humidity is preferred. If you’re growing in a basket, you will need to water more frequently during the growing season. However, the exact watering schedule will be party determined by your humidity levels, temperature, and choice of potting media.
Temperature: Keep it warm and humid in the spring and summer, above 65ºF (18ºC). In the winter, a brief period of 55 to 65ºF (13 to 18ºC) will cause inflorescence.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is best. Avoid heavy garden soils, especially if you’re growing the plant in a hanging basket. In general, the lighter the mix, the better, but keep in mind that very light mixes will drain faster and require more frequently watering. Also, it’s a good idea to repot your hanging plants more frequently, as they soil in a hanging basket tends to become exhausted faster than soil in pots.
Fertilizer: When new growth appears in the spring, feed with a controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions. Liquid fertilizers are often best for hanging applications, because they provide a steady supply of food. However, for best effect, make sure to use the fertilizer with every application during the growing season. If it will be challenging to stick to this schedule, sprinkle the soil surface with a good controlled-release fertilizer at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Repotting depends on your container choice. For hanging plants, you should repot in the beginning of every growing season. You can keep the plant in the same basket year after year, but you’ll still need to refresh the soil and, if the plant has become too large, divide it. You can pot the division up separately. If you’re growing in a container, repot either annually or every other year, depending on the size of the plant.
Propagation
Take cuttings in the spring, when the plant resumes normal growth. To successfully root cuttings, use a rooting hormone and provide bottom heat or use a covered rooting container. Take a cutting with several leaves and a length of stem. Strip away the bottom one or two sets of leaves to expose one or two growing nodes. Dip these into rooting hormone (if you’re using it), then bury the cutting and the exposed nodes into a clean potting mix. You can use a seedling mix if you have some on hand. Keep the cutting in a bright, warm place with high humidity. When you start to see new growth, you’ll know the cutting has rooted. Wait until the plant has put out several sets of new leaves before repotting to a more permanent container.
Grower’s Tips
Aeschynanthus are perfect as hanging or trailing plants. They require high humidity and warmth throughout the growing season, as well as strong (but not direct) light. After the season is over, cut the trailing stems back in preparation for another year—otherwise, it will tend toward leginess. Do not spray plants in bloom. These are perfect for a greenhouse, sunroom or conservatory.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Nematanthus (Goldfish Plant) is a genus of flowering plants of the family Gesneriaceae. All of its species are endemic to Brazil. The plant is generally an epiphyte in nature and a hanging-basket plant in cultivation.
If you have a high light area that calls for a hanging or table plant that flowers, Nematanthus are a perfect choice. They have hundreds of small, thick, shiny, dark green leaves and colorful flowers that resemble tiny goldfish. The flowers on a Nematanthus may be red, orange, or yellow. Plants are easy to care for, drought resistant, and, with proper care, can bloom all year.
Growing Conditions
Light: Place the Nematanthus in bright light, but protect it from direct sunlight. Put the plant a few feet away from a bright window, or place it next to a window covered with a sheer curtain. Curled leaves are an indication that the plant needs a bit more light.
Water: Water the Nematanthus regularly, and don’t allow the soil to dry out. Water to the point that the soil is moist, but never allow the soil to become soggy. Pour water out of the drainage saucer immediately, and do not allow the bottom of the container to sit in water.
Temperature: Keep the plants in a warm room and don’t allow temperatures to drop below 60ºF (15ºC). Don’t place the plant near heating vents or air conditioners, and protect the plant from cold drafts.
Soil: It like a rich potting soil that holds water but still drains quickly.
Fertilizer: Fertilize a Nematanthus every two weeks in the spring and summer when it is actively growing with a basic plant food at 1/2 the recommended strength. Feed the plant monthly in the fall and winter.
Pruning
Remove old flowers and prune back stems as needed to maintain size. Most are trailing plants grown in baskets and periodically they can be trimmed back to maintain the length of the stems.
Repotting
Repot overcrowded plants in a larger container, or divide them and pot them up in separate containers; this will increase your quantity of plants easily.
Pests and Disease
Nematanthus have susceptibility to mealy bugs, cyclamen mites, aphids and thrip as well as whitefly. Under excessive moisture, they can have problems with root diseases.
Propagation
Propagate Nematanthus using stem cuttings from healthy new growth.
If you have a high light area that calls for a hanging or table plant that flowers, Nematanthus are a perfect choice. They have hundreds of small, thick, shiny, dark green leaves and colorful flowers that resemble tiny goldfish. The flowers on a Nematanthus may be red, orange, or yellow. Plants are easy to care for, drought resistant, and, with proper care, can bloom all year.
Growing Conditions
Light: Place the Nematanthus in bright light, but protect it from direct sunlight. Put the plant a few feet away from a bright window, or place it next to a window covered with a sheer curtain. Curled leaves are an indication that the plant needs a bit more light.
Water: Water the Nematanthus regularly, and don’t allow the soil to dry out. Water to the point that the soil is moist, but never allow the soil to become soggy. Pour water out of the drainage saucer immediately, and do not allow the bottom of the container to sit in water.
Temperature: Keep the plants in a warm room and don’t allow temperatures to drop below 60ºF (15ºC). Don’t place the plant near heating vents or air conditioners, and protect the plant from cold drafts.
Soil: It like a rich potting soil that holds water but still drains quickly.
Fertilizer: Fertilize a Nematanthus every two weeks in the spring and summer when it is actively growing with a basic plant food at 1/2 the recommended strength. Feed the plant monthly in the fall and winter.
Pruning
Remove old flowers and prune back stems as needed to maintain size. Most are trailing plants grown in baskets and periodically they can be trimmed back to maintain the length of the stems.
Repotting
Repot overcrowded plants in a larger container, or divide them and pot them up in separate containers; this will increase your quantity of plants easily.
Pests and Disease
Nematanthus have susceptibility to mealy bugs, cyclamen mites, aphids and thrip as well as whitefly. Under excessive moisture, they can have problems with root diseases.
Propagation
Propagate Nematanthus using stem cuttings from healthy new growth.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
In cold climates, Snowdrops (Galanthus) are often the first flowers to bloom – and a welcome sight they are. Their tiny, drooping flowers and grass-like foliage give the plant the appearance of delicacy, but Snowdrops are hardy plants, often poking up and blooming despite the snow remaining on the ground.
Snowdrops may take a while to naturalize in your garden or yard, but eventually you’ll see them popping up in places you’re sure you never planted them. They can hybridize between species, so expect surprises.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Heat will shorten their bloom period and will cause them to wilt and go into dormancy.
Water: Water well and keep watering weekly, until the ground has frozen. They won’t sprout until next spring, but they are growing roots.
Hardiness Zone: USDA Hardiness Zones 3 – 8, depending on species.
Soil: Snowdrops like a neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH and a rich but well draining soil.
Fertilizer: If your soil is lean, you may want to consider a bulb fertilizer after flowering.
Propagation
Snowdrops can be started from seed, but since they hybridize easily, they won’t come true from seed.
Plant the bulbs point up, about 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) apart and about 2 inches (5 cm) deep, in heavy soil; 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) in sandy soil. Actually, if you dig a wide hole, you can just scatter the bulbs, or scatter them on the surface and poke them in, if the soil is soft enough. Try not to crowd them too much, or you’ll be dividing them sooner.
Pests and Diseases
Luckily there aren’t a lot of pest out when snowdrops bloom. However snails and slugs will eat their leaves, later in the spring. The good news is Snowdrops are resistant to deer, rabbits ad even groundhogs.
Snowdrops can also be prone to fungal diseases, especially gray mold (botrytis). Good air circulation and well draining soil will usually prevent problems.
Grower’s Tips
Snowdrops need some sunlight to bloom, but too much sun will ‘melt’ them – cause them to whither away. The dappled shade of a deciduous tree, before it has leafed out in the early spring, is perfect.
Purchased Snowdrops are planted in the fall, but if a friend lifts some for you in the spring, before the leaves have started to decline, they should take fine, too. Either way, plant them immediately.
After flowering in the spring, let the foliage die back naturally. Snowdrops don’t linger long, like daffodils or tulips. They’ll disappear before you know it. Mark the area, so you don’t accidentally dig the bulbs when planting something else, later in the season. In dry seasons, water periodically throughout the summer. For the most part, Snowdrops will take care of themselves.
Large, established clumps may eventually have less blooms. At that point, you should consider digging them and dividing the clumps. Do this after flowering. The bulbs are small, but plump, and will break apart easily. Replant immediately.
It is possible to grow your Snowdrops in containers. You can squeeze them in quite close, but they’ll still need to be at least 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) deep. In USDA Zones 5 – 6, your containers may need some winter protection.
Since Snowdrops take a few years to become established, they are not often recommended for forcing.
Snowdrops may take a while to naturalize in your garden or yard, but eventually you’ll see them popping up in places you’re sure you never planted them. They can hybridize between species, so expect surprises.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Heat will shorten their bloom period and will cause them to wilt and go into dormancy.
Water: Water well and keep watering weekly, until the ground has frozen. They won’t sprout until next spring, but they are growing roots.
Hardiness Zone: USDA Hardiness Zones 3 – 8, depending on species.
Soil: Snowdrops like a neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH and a rich but well draining soil.
Fertilizer: If your soil is lean, you may want to consider a bulb fertilizer after flowering.
Propagation
Snowdrops can be started from seed, but since they hybridize easily, they won’t come true from seed.
Plant the bulbs point up, about 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) apart and about 2 inches (5 cm) deep, in heavy soil; 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) in sandy soil. Actually, if you dig a wide hole, you can just scatter the bulbs, or scatter them on the surface and poke them in, if the soil is soft enough. Try not to crowd them too much, or you’ll be dividing them sooner.
Pests and Diseases
Luckily there aren’t a lot of pest out when snowdrops bloom. However snails and slugs will eat their leaves, later in the spring. The good news is Snowdrops are resistant to deer, rabbits ad even groundhogs.
Snowdrops can also be prone to fungal diseases, especially gray mold (botrytis). Good air circulation and well draining soil will usually prevent problems.
Grower’s Tips
Snowdrops need some sunlight to bloom, but too much sun will ‘melt’ them – cause them to whither away. The dappled shade of a deciduous tree, before it has leafed out in the early spring, is perfect.
Purchased Snowdrops are planted in the fall, but if a friend lifts some for you in the spring, before the leaves have started to decline, they should take fine, too. Either way, plant them immediately.
After flowering in the spring, let the foliage die back naturally. Snowdrops don’t linger long, like daffodils or tulips. They’ll disappear before you know it. Mark the area, so you don’t accidentally dig the bulbs when planting something else, later in the season. In dry seasons, water periodically throughout the summer. For the most part, Snowdrops will take care of themselves.
Large, established clumps may eventually have less blooms. At that point, you should consider digging them and dividing the clumps. Do this after flowering. The bulbs are small, but plump, and will break apart easily. Replant immediately.
It is possible to grow your Snowdrops in containers. You can squeeze them in quite close, but they’ll still need to be at least 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) deep. In USDA Zones 5 – 6, your containers may need some winter protection.
Since Snowdrops take a few years to become established, they are not often recommended for forcing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Calliandra, commonly known as Powder Puff plants, are fairly common landscape plants in the tropics and subtropics. There, they are grown as small trees with woody stems and especially prized for their profuse displays of red “powder puff” flowers that blanket the tree every year. The puffs are actually the stamens of the flowers, and they really are beautiful. Indoors, these plants are kept smaller by necessity and, under the right conditions, can be coaxed into winter blooms or year-round blooms. Even though they are somewhat drought tolerant, they are not especially easy to bring to bloom inside. They are sensitive to cold, dry air, which perfectly describes the conditions in many homes. Even if the plant doesn’t bloom, however, its fern-like, segmented leaves are drooping and beautiful.
Growing Conditions
Light: Calliandra needs bright light-especially indoors, the more the better. During the height of the growing season, they might need protection from direct sunlight that is magnified by windowglass, but generally for the rest of the year, they like very bright, direct light.
Water: During the growth season, water frequently and never allow potting soil to dry out. You can reduce watering somewhat during the winter, but because the most common species is a winter-bloomer, you never want to completely suspend watering.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Cut fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Repotting
Repot in the early spring (when you take cuttings). In their native habitat, Powder Puff plants grow to medium-sized shrubs or small trees, depending on the year-round conditions and species. Indoors, they won’t become that large, but if your plant is very healthy and thriving, it can easily outgrow your pot and overpower the space. To keep it smaller, only repot every other year.
Propagation
Powder Puffs can be relatively easily sprouted from stem cuttings. During the spring, when new growth emerges and the winter bloom (if there is one) has faded, take a cutting and pot it in seed-starting soil. Rooting hormone and bottom heat increase your chances of success. These are not especially fast-growing plants, so don’t expect a bloom that first year.
Grower’s Tips
Powder Puff plants are not especially difficult to grow indoors, but it can be tricky coaxing them to bloom. They prefer regular moisture, high humidity, bright light and high temperatures. In the absence of these conditions, they will not grow as vigorously and will likely not bloom at all. If you have a conservatory or sunroom, you’ll likely have more success. Powder Puffs are not especially susceptible to pests, but will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites. Signs of infestation include tiny webs on plants, clumps of white “powdery” residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection. As always, start with the least toxic treatment option first, only progressing to more serious chemicals if your initial efforts fail.
Growing Conditions
Light: Calliandra needs bright light-especially indoors, the more the better. During the height of the growing season, they might need protection from direct sunlight that is magnified by windowglass, but generally for the rest of the year, they like very bright, direct light.
Water: During the growth season, water frequently and never allow potting soil to dry out. You can reduce watering somewhat during the winter, but because the most common species is a winter-bloomer, you never want to completely suspend watering.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Cut fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Repotting
Repot in the early spring (when you take cuttings). In their native habitat, Powder Puff plants grow to medium-sized shrubs or small trees, depending on the year-round conditions and species. Indoors, they won’t become that large, but if your plant is very healthy and thriving, it can easily outgrow your pot and overpower the space. To keep it smaller, only repot every other year.
Propagation
Powder Puffs can be relatively easily sprouted from stem cuttings. During the spring, when new growth emerges and the winter bloom (if there is one) has faded, take a cutting and pot it in seed-starting soil. Rooting hormone and bottom heat increase your chances of success. These are not especially fast-growing plants, so don’t expect a bloom that first year.
Grower’s Tips
Powder Puff plants are not especially difficult to grow indoors, but it can be tricky coaxing them to bloom. They prefer regular moisture, high humidity, bright light and high temperatures. In the absence of these conditions, they will not grow as vigorously and will likely not bloom at all. If you have a conservatory or sunroom, you’ll likely have more success. Powder Puffs are not especially susceptible to pests, but will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites. Signs of infestation include tiny webs on plants, clumps of white “powdery” residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection. As always, start with the least toxic treatment option first, only progressing to more serious chemicals if your initial efforts fail.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Costus is an uncommon plant in the landscape trade, especially in temperate and colder areas. And that’s a shame. This relatively large genus of about 100 tropical plants was once classified with the gingers, but has since been moved into its own genus. They range throughout the tropical world and grow with large, fleshy leaves that are arranged in whorls around the stem. The flowers emerge from the center of the plant in a small cone with ruffled, crinkled flowers.
Like many plants with fleshy leaves, they have a truly tropical appearance, which belies their relative ease of growth. These are much more cold hardy than some of the other tropicals and can even be grown outside into Zone 8, although they might die back during the colder months. Indoors, it’s best to focus on juvenile plants because the more popular species among them tend to grow fairly large. They are rhizomatous plants (meaning they grow from an underground rhizome), which makes propagation a snap.
Growing Conditions
Light: They like morning sun exposure, so an eastern window is perfect. Plants that receive more light should get correspondingly more water. They can be acclimated to full sun and will frequently appreciate a summer on your balcony or porch.
Water: They require copious and regular amounts of water. Never let the soil dry out, even during the winter season. Do not, however, let them sit in waterlogged soil or the rhizome could rot.
Fertilizer: Feed weekly with a weak liquid fertilizer that includes micronutrients. They are heavy feeders, especially during the growing season.
Soil: A light, fast-draining potting soil is perfect.
Repotting
Depending on the species, you’ll probably need to repot your Costus annually, in the beginning of the growing season. If you want to keep it a manageable size, use this as an opportunity to divide the rhizome and refresh your potting soil, but keep it in the same size pot. Some of the larger species can grow to 10 feet (3 m) or more, so be aware of the potential size issue.
Propagation
They can be propagated by leaf cuttings, but by far the easiest way to propagate a costs is to divide the rhizome or take a piece of it. When dividing the rhizome, look for a piece that’s actively growing or just emerging from the soil. Separate it from the parent plant and repot into a new pot with fresh potting soil. Keep warm and moist, but do not expose to full sun until the first new growth emerges, then you can begin to move it into a sunnier location.
Grower’s Tips
Costus fall into the tropical category, so if you do well with philodendrons and other tropical plants, you should be able to grow Costus without too much issue. They aren’t terribly picky about their light, but the key to successful growth is lots of water and lots of fertilizer to keep up with their heavy demands. If your plant starts to suffer from brown leaf margins, it most likely is being underwatered or exposed to cold drafts. Try to raise the humidity and increase the water. Costus are susceptible to mealybugs and aphids. Keep a careful eye on your plants and inspect them to catch infestations early and treat immediately. Severely infected plants should be discarded.
Like many plants with fleshy leaves, they have a truly tropical appearance, which belies their relative ease of growth. These are much more cold hardy than some of the other tropicals and can even be grown outside into Zone 8, although they might die back during the colder months. Indoors, it’s best to focus on juvenile plants because the more popular species among them tend to grow fairly large. They are rhizomatous plants (meaning they grow from an underground rhizome), which makes propagation a snap.
Growing Conditions
Light: They like morning sun exposure, so an eastern window is perfect. Plants that receive more light should get correspondingly more water. They can be acclimated to full sun and will frequently appreciate a summer on your balcony or porch.
Water: They require copious and regular amounts of water. Never let the soil dry out, even during the winter season. Do not, however, let them sit in waterlogged soil or the rhizome could rot.
Fertilizer: Feed weekly with a weak liquid fertilizer that includes micronutrients. They are heavy feeders, especially during the growing season.
Soil: A light, fast-draining potting soil is perfect.
Repotting
Depending on the species, you’ll probably need to repot your Costus annually, in the beginning of the growing season. If you want to keep it a manageable size, use this as an opportunity to divide the rhizome and refresh your potting soil, but keep it in the same size pot. Some of the larger species can grow to 10 feet (3 m) or more, so be aware of the potential size issue.
Propagation
They can be propagated by leaf cuttings, but by far the easiest way to propagate a costs is to divide the rhizome or take a piece of it. When dividing the rhizome, look for a piece that’s actively growing or just emerging from the soil. Separate it from the parent plant and repot into a new pot with fresh potting soil. Keep warm and moist, but do not expose to full sun until the first new growth emerges, then you can begin to move it into a sunnier location.
Grower’s Tips
Costus fall into the tropical category, so if you do well with philodendrons and other tropical plants, you should be able to grow Costus without too much issue. They aren’t terribly picky about their light, but the key to successful growth is lots of water and lots of fertilizer to keep up with their heavy demands. If your plant starts to suffer from brown leaf margins, it most likely is being underwatered or exposed to cold drafts. Try to raise the humidity and increase the water. Costus are susceptible to mealybugs and aphids. Keep a careful eye on your plants and inspect them to catch infestations early and treat immediately. Severely infected plants should be discarded.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
The genus Aquilegia, also known as Columbine plants are easy-to-grow perennials that offers seasonal interest throughout much of the year. Aquilegia‘s bell-shaped flowers are popular with hummingbirds, bees and gardeners. The mid-spring blooms fill the void between early spring bulbs and peak garden season. They are associated with woodland gardens, but most are widely adaptable. Many of the species are native to areas throughout North America, from Canada to Texas.
Most varieties of Columbine will bloom for at least 4 weeks. They are tougher plants than they appear, but they tend to be short-lived perennials. However they will seed and spread, remaining in your garden for years.
Columbine plants have an airy appearance, with small, rounded leaves and tall flower stalks that hold the blooms above the foliage. Flat fans of oval dark green leaves that turn red in the fall. Each dangling, bell-shaped flower has 5 petals that flare out from the base, surrounded by a collar of 5 larger sepals. The long, nectar holding spurs arch backward out of the flowers.
Growing Conditions
Light: While they enjoy full sun in most areas, they don’t like it very hot, especially during summer. Therefore, in warmer areas like the south, grow them in partial shade.
Water: Keep the plants moist following columbine planting until well established. Then only weekly watering is necessary with exception to extended periods of drought in which they will require additional watering.
Fertilizer: Provide a water soluble fertilizer monthly. Regular fertilizing will help produce brighter blooms and thicker foliage.
Soil: Columbine plants aren’t too particular about soil as long it’s well draining and not too dry.
Planting
You can start Columbine from seed or plant. Seeds can be direct sown throughout spring. The seeds need light to germinate, so simply press them on the soil surface and barely cover with soil. Since Columbine is a perennial, it will take 2 years from planting seed, for them to bloom.
If you are starting your seeds indoors, they will do better with some pre-chilling. Place the seeds in the refrigerator in a plastic bag with some damp potting soil, 8-12 weeks before your last frost date. Then pot them up and move them to a warmer spot.
Columbine plants should be planted with their crown at soil level. Water well and mulch. New plants will need to be kept moist, until they become established. You’ll know when they start putting out a lot of new growth. Even then, keep your Columbine well water during dry spells.
Pests and Diseases
Aphids, Caterpillars and Leaf miners – Leaf miners are by far the biggest problem. They tunnel inside the leaves and can quickly make an unsightly mess. Shearing the plants, after blooming, will usually avoid the problem. Since Columbine doesn’t not usually rebloom shearing is the best way to control insect problems. The leaves will eventually fill back in.
Grower’s Tips
Columbnie plants can handle full sun. It’s the combination of heat and dry soil they don’t like and mulching will help alleviate that. They will self-sow, but new plants can be lost if the summer gets to hot. Also, plants tend to be short lived, fading out within 3 years. Hedge your bets and save some seed to sow in the fall or falling spring.
Keep in mind that Columbine varieties readily cross pollinate. If you plant more than one variety, be prepared to see new colors and combinations.
If self-sowing becomes a nuisance, shear the plants back in mid-summer, to prevent seed pods from forming.
Most varieties of Columbine will bloom for at least 4 weeks. They are tougher plants than they appear, but they tend to be short-lived perennials. However they will seed and spread, remaining in your garden for years.
Columbine plants have an airy appearance, with small, rounded leaves and tall flower stalks that hold the blooms above the foliage. Flat fans of oval dark green leaves that turn red in the fall. Each dangling, bell-shaped flower has 5 petals that flare out from the base, surrounded by a collar of 5 larger sepals. The long, nectar holding spurs arch backward out of the flowers.
Growing Conditions
Light: While they enjoy full sun in most areas, they don’t like it very hot, especially during summer. Therefore, in warmer areas like the south, grow them in partial shade.
Water: Keep the plants moist following columbine planting until well established. Then only weekly watering is necessary with exception to extended periods of drought in which they will require additional watering.
Fertilizer: Provide a water soluble fertilizer monthly. Regular fertilizing will help produce brighter blooms and thicker foliage.
Soil: Columbine plants aren’t too particular about soil as long it’s well draining and not too dry.
Planting
You can start Columbine from seed or plant. Seeds can be direct sown throughout spring. The seeds need light to germinate, so simply press them on the soil surface and barely cover with soil. Since Columbine is a perennial, it will take 2 years from planting seed, for them to bloom.
If you are starting your seeds indoors, they will do better with some pre-chilling. Place the seeds in the refrigerator in a plastic bag with some damp potting soil, 8-12 weeks before your last frost date. Then pot them up and move them to a warmer spot.
Columbine plants should be planted with their crown at soil level. Water well and mulch. New plants will need to be kept moist, until they become established. You’ll know when they start putting out a lot of new growth. Even then, keep your Columbine well water during dry spells.
Pests and Diseases
Aphids, Caterpillars and Leaf miners – Leaf miners are by far the biggest problem. They tunnel inside the leaves and can quickly make an unsightly mess. Shearing the plants, after blooming, will usually avoid the problem. Since Columbine doesn’t not usually rebloom shearing is the best way to control insect problems. The leaves will eventually fill back in.
Grower’s Tips
Columbnie plants can handle full sun. It’s the combination of heat and dry soil they don’t like and mulching will help alleviate that. They will self-sow, but new plants can be lost if the summer gets to hot. Also, plants tend to be short lived, fading out within 3 years. Hedge your bets and save some seed to sow in the fall or falling spring.
Keep in mind that Columbine varieties readily cross pollinate. If you plant more than one variety, be prepared to see new colors and combinations.
If self-sowing becomes a nuisance, shear the plants back in mid-summer, to prevent seed pods from forming.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Thelymitra, commonly called Sun Orchids, is a genus of about 80 species of terrestrial tuberous plants in the Orchidaceae family distributed throughout Australia, New Zealand and islands to the north of Australia.
They are known as “Sun Orchids” because the colorful flowers of most species only open fully on warm, sunny days, with the desert species requiring more heat than those from temperate areas.
Members of the genus Thelymitra are perennial ground orchids, which die back to underground tubers during the warm dry months of the year. They have a single basal leaf and an erect inflorescence with up to 40 flowers. The flowers may be self-pollinating or insect-pollinated and open only on warm to hot days. Flowers are usually blue, pink, yellow or white, but may have darker spots or blotches or prominent longitudinal veins.
The number of flowers per stem is variable. Some, such as the Scented Sun Orchid, will have up to 30 flowers open on a single stem. Unlike other Australian orchids, this genus has sepals and petals nearly equal in length, with the lip similar to and spreading with them. They have a solitary leaf that is usually elongated and channeled. Species are identified by their color and their column.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Sun Orchids can be very tricky in cultivation. However, most are fairly amenable and some are very easy. All plants are summer dormant and rest as tuberoids. Plants emerge in late summer and flower in late winter, spring and early summer. Culture as sunny as possible. In milder climates garden culture is possible. Frost hardy up to 23°F (-5°C). Regular watering during the growing period is essential. Fertilize monthly until flowering. Reduce watering with the onset of flowers and stop as the leaves die back. Completely dry during dormancy. Occasionally a light spray of water for small plants and seedlings to prevent dehydration. If grown inside, move plants temporary outside in late summer as cool nights and some rain will stimulate plants into the new growing season.
They are known as “Sun Orchids” because the colorful flowers of most species only open fully on warm, sunny days, with the desert species requiring more heat than those from temperate areas.
Members of the genus Thelymitra are perennial ground orchids, which die back to underground tubers during the warm dry months of the year. They have a single basal leaf and an erect inflorescence with up to 40 flowers. The flowers may be self-pollinating or insect-pollinated and open only on warm to hot days. Flowers are usually blue, pink, yellow or white, but may have darker spots or blotches or prominent longitudinal veins.
The number of flowers per stem is variable. Some, such as the Scented Sun Orchid, will have up to 30 flowers open on a single stem. Unlike other Australian orchids, this genus has sepals and petals nearly equal in length, with the lip similar to and spreading with them. They have a solitary leaf that is usually elongated and channeled. Species are identified by their color and their column.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Sun Orchids can be very tricky in cultivation. However, most are fairly amenable and some are very easy. All plants are summer dormant and rest as tuberoids. Plants emerge in late summer and flower in late winter, spring and early summer. Culture as sunny as possible. In milder climates garden culture is possible. Frost hardy up to 23°F (-5°C). Regular watering during the growing period is essential. Fertilize monthly until flowering. Reduce watering with the onset of flowers and stop as the leaves die back. Completely dry during dormancy. Occasionally a light spray of water for small plants and seedlings to prevent dehydration. If grown inside, move plants temporary outside in late summer as cool nights and some rain will stimulate plants into the new growing season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Psychotria elata (Sw.) Ham
Common Names
Hot Lips, Hot Lips Plants, Flower Lips, Hooker’s Lips, Mick Jagger’s Lips
Synonyms
Cephaelis elata (basionym), Callicocca elata, Cephaelis costaricensis, Cephaelis phoenicia, Cephaelis punicea, Evea elata, Palicourea elata, Tapogomea elata, Tapogomea punicea, Uragoga elata, Uragoga phoenicia, Uragoga punicea
Scientific Classification
Family: Rubiaceae
Subfamily: Rubioideae
Tribe: Psychotrieae
Genus: Psychotria
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: December to March
Description
Psychotria elata is a tropical tree found in the rain forests of Central and South American countries. The plant has become internet-famous because of its flowers or rather the shape of the red bracts (modified leaves) before the flowers mature. From these bracts tiny white, stare-shaped flowers emerge. Sadly, deforestation is wiping this species off the Earth.
How to Grow and Care
Hot Lips grows where the soil is rich and humid from leaf litter, moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees. Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot Lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States.
Growing Hot Lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays. Growing Hot Lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant. Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70ºF (21ºC), humidity of at least 60% and indirect bright lighting.
Origin
Native to the rain forests of Central and South American countries like Columbia, Costa Rica, Panama and Ecuador.
Psychotria elata (Sw.) Ham
Common Names
Hot Lips, Hot Lips Plants, Flower Lips, Hooker’s Lips, Mick Jagger’s Lips
Synonyms
Cephaelis elata (basionym), Callicocca elata, Cephaelis costaricensis, Cephaelis phoenicia, Cephaelis punicea, Evea elata, Palicourea elata, Tapogomea elata, Tapogomea punicea, Uragoga elata, Uragoga phoenicia, Uragoga punicea
Scientific Classification
Family: Rubiaceae
Subfamily: Rubioideae
Tribe: Psychotrieae
Genus: Psychotria
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: December to March
Description
Psychotria elata is a tropical tree found in the rain forests of Central and South American countries. The plant has become internet-famous because of its flowers or rather the shape of the red bracts (modified leaves) before the flowers mature. From these bracts tiny white, stare-shaped flowers emerge. Sadly, deforestation is wiping this species off the Earth.
How to Grow and Care
Hot Lips grows where the soil is rich and humid from leaf litter, moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees. Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot Lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States.
Growing Hot Lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays. Growing Hot Lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant. Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70ºF (21ºC), humidity of at least 60% and indirect bright lighting.
Origin
Native to the rain forests of Central and South American countries like Columbia, Costa Rica, Panama and Ecuador.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
During the winter and early spring months many people buy or are given potted tulip plants (Tulipa spp.), which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. These tulips have been "forced" in nurseries, made to bloom out of season by careful manipulation of light, temperature and growing conditions. After forcing, the plant's energy, stored in the tulip bulb, is depleted. The key to successful aftercare of forced bulbs is building up the plant's energy supply once again. Forced tulips can be planted outside and will bloom again, though possibly not for a year or two.
After Bloom Care
Begin preparing potted tulips for outdoor planting as soon as the petals fade. Keep plants inside, preferably in a south- or east-facing window, at normal room temperature. Remove dead flowers, clipping the stem close to the base of the plant. Disinfect clippers before and after cutting by soaking for 5 minutes in a 50-50 solution of rubbing alcohol and water. Removing spent flowers allows the plant to put energy into the bulb, rather than seed production. Continue watering when the surface of the soil feels dry and monitor the plant's leaves. Fertilize with an all-purpose product, like 24-8-16, mixing 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water, applied every two weeks. Do not remove the leaves until they have turned brown and brittle.
Planting in Spring
Plant the tulips outdoors any time in spring, beginning when the soil is workable. If the leaves are still green, wait until they turn brown and remove them. Choose a sunny location, preferably one that receives relatively little water in summer.
Carefully dig the bulbs out of the pot and dig a hole 8 inches deep for each bulb. Mix dirt from the holes with an equal measure of compost. Plant bulbs pointed-side up, at least 5 inches apart. Fill the holes with the amended soil, and water.
Fertilize with the same all-purpose product, using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, applied every 14 days until the soil cools to 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting in Fall
If it is not convenient to plant your tulips outdoors in the spring, you can wait until fall with an equal chance of success. After the leaves have died, remove the tulip bulbs from the soil. Place the bulbs in a brown paper bag and store in a cool, dry spot. In the fall, after the soil cools to about 60 degrees Fahrenheit, plant the tulips outdoors. Water after planting, but don't water again until after leaves appear.
Forced Tulip Considerations
Not all tulip varieties rebloom as readily as others, even with the best of care. Generally Darwin hybrids, single early and single late tulips are the best rebloomers. However, the tulips sold in pots during the winter are often not labeled as to type. Potted tulips that rebloom after being transplanted outside may bear smaller flowers than those borne in the first year inside. When planting outside, position previously potted bulbs within plantings of new tulip bulbs to ensure a good floral display even if the potted bulb never reblooms or waits until the second year after planting.
After Bloom Care
Begin preparing potted tulips for outdoor planting as soon as the petals fade. Keep plants inside, preferably in a south- or east-facing window, at normal room temperature. Remove dead flowers, clipping the stem close to the base of the plant. Disinfect clippers before and after cutting by soaking for 5 minutes in a 50-50 solution of rubbing alcohol and water. Removing spent flowers allows the plant to put energy into the bulb, rather than seed production. Continue watering when the surface of the soil feels dry and monitor the plant's leaves. Fertilize with an all-purpose product, like 24-8-16, mixing 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water, applied every two weeks. Do not remove the leaves until they have turned brown and brittle.
Planting in Spring
Plant the tulips outdoors any time in spring, beginning when the soil is workable. If the leaves are still green, wait until they turn brown and remove them. Choose a sunny location, preferably one that receives relatively little water in summer.
Carefully dig the bulbs out of the pot and dig a hole 8 inches deep for each bulb. Mix dirt from the holes with an equal measure of compost. Plant bulbs pointed-side up, at least 5 inches apart. Fill the holes with the amended soil, and water.
Fertilize with the same all-purpose product, using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, applied every 14 days until the soil cools to 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting in Fall
If it is not convenient to plant your tulips outdoors in the spring, you can wait until fall with an equal chance of success. After the leaves have died, remove the tulip bulbs from the soil. Place the bulbs in a brown paper bag and store in a cool, dry spot. In the fall, after the soil cools to about 60 degrees Fahrenheit, plant the tulips outdoors. Water after planting, but don't water again until after leaves appear.
Forced Tulip Considerations
Not all tulip varieties rebloom as readily as others, even with the best of care. Generally Darwin hybrids, single early and single late tulips are the best rebloomers. However, the tulips sold in pots during the winter are often not labeled as to type. Potted tulips that rebloom after being transplanted outside may bear smaller flowers than those borne in the first year inside. When planting outside, position previously potted bulbs within plantings of new tulip bulbs to ensure a good floral display even if the potted bulb never reblooms or waits until the second year after planting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Cool-season bulb plants, tulips (Tulipa spp.) were first discovered in eastern Turkey. Although tulips grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, they don't bloom reliably in mild-winter climates unless you dig them up and refrigerate them. In regions where temperatures rarely drop below 25 degrees Fahrenheit, you'll need to chill the bulbs if you want to see flowers each year.
Prepare Bulbs for Digging
Tulips spend their energy while they're flowering, and they need to replenish this energy after their spring show. If you plan to dig, store and replant your tulip bulbs, leave them in the ground until the leaves yellow and wither. As long as the leaves are green, they're photosynthesizing -- building energy stores for the next season's flowers. Clip the spent flower off the stalk to prevent seed formation. Setting seed takes energy and weakens the bulb.
Dig and Store Tulip Bulbs
If you live in USDA zone 8 or cooler and your bulbs are planted in an area of your yard that remains relatively dry, you can leave the bulbs in the ground until June or July. If you live in a warmer climate or your soil will stay moist, dig the bulbs as soon as the leaves wither. Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the ground. Separate the bulbs. Remove roots and loose soil from the bulbs and store them in a dry place with good air circulation in mesh bags or shallow wooden crates, with bulbs no more than 5 inches deep in the container. Avoid storing bulbs where temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Allow Tulips to Chill
If you live in USDA zones 8 through 10, plant tulips between early November and early January. In colder climates, plant tulips in early fall.
Count back 16 to 18 weeks before planting time for your area, and place the bulbs in ventilated bags or dry peat moss and put them in your refrigerator, an unheated building or other spot where temperatures remain between 35 and 45 F. Keep the bulbs chilled until it's time to plant.
Prepare the Bed
Fertilize the tulip bed at planting time by digging in a 2-inch layer of compost or well-rotted cow manure, or use a 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 commercial fertilizer after planting. Apply commercial fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet, or follow label instructions. Spread the fertilizer on top of the bed after planting, then water the area.
Set bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up. If you plan to mulch, add the mulch depth to your calculation. For example, if you plan to add 2 inches of mulch, plant the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep. After green shoots emerge, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 at the same rate you used at planting time.
Prepare Bulbs for Digging
Tulips spend their energy while they're flowering, and they need to replenish this energy after their spring show. If you plan to dig, store and replant your tulip bulbs, leave them in the ground until the leaves yellow and wither. As long as the leaves are green, they're photosynthesizing -- building energy stores for the next season's flowers. Clip the spent flower off the stalk to prevent seed formation. Setting seed takes energy and weakens the bulb.
Dig and Store Tulip Bulbs
If you live in USDA zone 8 or cooler and your bulbs are planted in an area of your yard that remains relatively dry, you can leave the bulbs in the ground until June or July. If you live in a warmer climate or your soil will stay moist, dig the bulbs as soon as the leaves wither. Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the ground. Separate the bulbs. Remove roots and loose soil from the bulbs and store them in a dry place with good air circulation in mesh bags or shallow wooden crates, with bulbs no more than 5 inches deep in the container. Avoid storing bulbs where temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Allow Tulips to Chill
If you live in USDA zones 8 through 10, plant tulips between early November and early January. In colder climates, plant tulips in early fall.
Count back 16 to 18 weeks before planting time for your area, and place the bulbs in ventilated bags or dry peat moss and put them in your refrigerator, an unheated building or other spot where temperatures remain between 35 and 45 F. Keep the bulbs chilled until it's time to plant.
Prepare the Bed
Fertilize the tulip bed at planting time by digging in a 2-inch layer of compost or well-rotted cow manure, or use a 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 commercial fertilizer after planting. Apply commercial fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet, or follow label instructions. Spread the fertilizer on top of the bed after planting, then water the area.
Set bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up. If you plan to mulch, add the mulch depth to your calculation. For example, if you plan to add 2 inches of mulch, plant the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep. After green shoots emerge, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 at the same rate you used at planting time.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips (Tulipa spp.) are springtime plants that produce vibrantly colored blossoms, sometimes even multicolored ones. The appearance of tulips hails the arrival of warmer weather for many people. Tulips are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, and, with careful planning, you can enjoy them from early spring through early summer. They are indoor or outdoor plants and a simple way to ensure bright color in an otherwise drab landscape after winter finishes.
Large and Small Groups
How you group tulip bulbs depends on space restrictions and when they blossom. For springtime blooms, plant your tulips in groups of at least 12 per color. The early spring landscape is often barren, and so smaller groupings can make a garden look scrawny rather than lively. Tulips bloom in a variety of colors, ranging from pink, white and red to purple, orange and multicolored. Plant only tulips of a single flower color in small spaces. Although making use of tulips' wide color variety is tempting, too many colors in a small space have less visual impact than fewer colors do. Plant groups of single-colored tulips in corners and hidden areas to highlight those parts of the yard.
With Other Plants and Walkways
Plant tulips in single-color bunches -- with each bunch containing a minimum of six tulips -- to highlight borders and walkways. Even though the dark green of evergreens is a contrasting backdrop for the bright color of tulips, especially in early spring, do not plant tulips under evergreen trees because their shade results in poor growth. Tulips require full- or partial-sun exposure to thrive. Flowerbeds at the base of deciduous trees, however, are optimal tulip-growing environments because those trees' branches are not yet filled with shade-producing foliage in spring.
Potted Plants Indoors
Because tulips can grow successfully indoors in containers, you can enjoy their blossoms year-round. Tulips look best in a wide, shallow pot, roughly 4 to 6 inches deep; the pot must be deep enough to allow a minimum of 2 inches below the bottom of the bulbs for root development. It is all right to have the top of the bulbs in line with the container's rim. Use a blend of potting mix and compost for the growing medium. Tulips do best in a clay pot, which drys faster than a plastic pot, reducing the risk of excess moisture. Tulip varieties that do best indoors are short ones.
Guidelines for Indoor Tulips
When planting tulip bulbs for indoor use, group the bulbs closely together so they have more visual appeal when they blossom. Fit as many bulbs into one pot as possible without having them touch. Tulip bulbs growing indoors do not naturally undergo a wintertime chill, as they would outdoors, and the change in temperature from cold to warm is what triggers tulips to blooms. Most tulip bulbs require a minimum of 14 to 20 weeks of cold temperatures before they blossom two to three weeks later. Force tulips to grow and flower indoors by chilling their container -- filled with soil and bulbs -- in a 35- to 45-degree Fahrenheit environment. If you are in an area where temperatures do not fall below 25 degrees Fahrenheit, then keep the bulbs on a porch, and protect them with a layer of straw. In an area that gets colder weather, store them in a consistently cold environment, such as a cold cellar. Depending on when they are planted, indoor tulips can take eight to 16 weeks to bloom.
Large and Small Groups
How you group tulip bulbs depends on space restrictions and when they blossom. For springtime blooms, plant your tulips in groups of at least 12 per color. The early spring landscape is often barren, and so smaller groupings can make a garden look scrawny rather than lively. Tulips bloom in a variety of colors, ranging from pink, white and red to purple, orange and multicolored. Plant only tulips of a single flower color in small spaces. Although making use of tulips' wide color variety is tempting, too many colors in a small space have less visual impact than fewer colors do. Plant groups of single-colored tulips in corners and hidden areas to highlight those parts of the yard.
With Other Plants and Walkways
Plant tulips in single-color bunches -- with each bunch containing a minimum of six tulips -- to highlight borders and walkways. Even though the dark green of evergreens is a contrasting backdrop for the bright color of tulips, especially in early spring, do not plant tulips under evergreen trees because their shade results in poor growth. Tulips require full- or partial-sun exposure to thrive. Flowerbeds at the base of deciduous trees, however, are optimal tulip-growing environments because those trees' branches are not yet filled with shade-producing foliage in spring.
Potted Plants Indoors
Because tulips can grow successfully indoors in containers, you can enjoy their blossoms year-round. Tulips look best in a wide, shallow pot, roughly 4 to 6 inches deep; the pot must be deep enough to allow a minimum of 2 inches below the bottom of the bulbs for root development. It is all right to have the top of the bulbs in line with the container's rim. Use a blend of potting mix and compost for the growing medium. Tulips do best in a clay pot, which drys faster than a plastic pot, reducing the risk of excess moisture. Tulip varieties that do best indoors are short ones.
Guidelines for Indoor Tulips
When planting tulip bulbs for indoor use, group the bulbs closely together so they have more visual appeal when they blossom. Fit as many bulbs into one pot as possible without having them touch. Tulip bulbs growing indoors do not naturally undergo a wintertime chill, as they would outdoors, and the change in temperature from cold to warm is what triggers tulips to blooms. Most tulip bulbs require a minimum of 14 to 20 weeks of cold temperatures before they blossom two to three weeks later. Force tulips to grow and flower indoors by chilling their container -- filled with soil and bulbs -- in a 35- to 45-degree Fahrenheit environment. If you are in an area where temperatures do not fall below 25 degrees Fahrenheit, then keep the bulbs on a porch, and protect them with a layer of straw. In an area that gets colder weather, store them in a consistently cold environment, such as a cold cellar. Depending on when they are planted, indoor tulips can take eight to 16 weeks to bloom.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips grow and bloom in late winter and early spring, bringing bright color to otherwise sleepy gardens. These bulb plants are equally successful in pots, both in the house and in the garden. Potted tulips require the same planting times, placement and care as outdoor tulips if they're to bloom in spring, so buy some tulips bulbs in fall and get started.
Step 1
Plant tulip bulbs in fall, around the first frost date in your area. All tulips require a cold "resting" time in fall in order to bloom. Use pots at least 6 inches deep with drainage holes for tulips, to accommodate their roots and keep them from sitting in water.
Step 2
Fill the pots halfway with quick-draining potting soil, and set the tulip bulbs on the soil with their noses pointing up. Plant tulip bulbs closely, but never place them close enough to touch each other. Fill the pots to within 1 inch of the surface with more potting soil.
Step 3
Water the tulips until water runs out of the drainage hole in the pot, then set them outside for the winter.
Step 4
Move tulips indoors again when their stems are 1 inch long. Put the pots in a cool, dark space and give them several weeks to grow. Move the tulips back into a sunny spot when their stems are 4 to 5 inches long.
Step 5
Water sprouted tulips with 2 inches of water a week to maintain consistent soil moisture, and keep them in full sun for six to eight hours a day.
Step 1
Plant tulip bulbs in fall, around the first frost date in your area. All tulips require a cold "resting" time in fall in order to bloom. Use pots at least 6 inches deep with drainage holes for tulips, to accommodate their roots and keep them from sitting in water.
Step 2
Fill the pots halfway with quick-draining potting soil, and set the tulip bulbs on the soil with their noses pointing up. Plant tulip bulbs closely, but never place them close enough to touch each other. Fill the pots to within 1 inch of the surface with more potting soil.
Step 3
Water the tulips until water runs out of the drainage hole in the pot, then set them outside for the winter.
Step 4
Move tulips indoors again when their stems are 1 inch long. Put the pots in a cool, dark space and give them several weeks to grow. Move the tulips back into a sunny spot when their stems are 4 to 5 inches long.
Step 5
Water sprouted tulips with 2 inches of water a week to maintain consistent soil moisture, and keep them in full sun for six to eight hours a day.
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