文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Gardeners often marvel over towering tomato plants in the garden. What many people do not know is that too much upward growth of the tomato plant can cause problems with the fruit. After the first month of growth, tomatoes can double their size every 12 to 15 days. The plant variety, weather conditions, soil and pruning all affect how tall the tomato plant will grow.
Step 1
Choose a tomato plant that typically has limited growth upward. A determinate plant only grows to around 4 feet tall. Determinate varieties that have limited growth usually produce smaller fruit and all at once. Varieties include Early Girl and Early Cascade. Indeterminate tomato continue to grow in height until the season ends. Common varieties of indeterminate plants include Super-Steak, Brandywine, Beefsteak, Better Boy and Big Boy.
Step 2
Prune the intermediate tomato plant regularly using a simple pruning technique. Find small shoots, typically called suckers, that need to be removed. Suckers can be found between the branches of the plant and the main stalk of the plant. Pinch off the suckers with your fingers. Do not use a shear for this process unless the sucker has been on the plant for awhile and is too thick to snap off.
Step 3
Cut off the top of the tomato plant where you want it to stop growing. Use sharp clean pruning shears to make an even cut across the main stalk. This cut may seem harmful to the tomato plant, but when a plant is getting too tall, it is likely strong and healthy if it is reaching outrageous heights. Once the stalk is pruned to your desired height, regularly check for suckers that grow at the top. Pinch the suckers off.
Step 1
Choose a tomato plant that typically has limited growth upward. A determinate plant only grows to around 4 feet tall. Determinate varieties that have limited growth usually produce smaller fruit and all at once. Varieties include Early Girl and Early Cascade. Indeterminate tomato continue to grow in height until the season ends. Common varieties of indeterminate plants include Super-Steak, Brandywine, Beefsteak, Better Boy and Big Boy.
Step 2
Prune the intermediate tomato plant regularly using a simple pruning technique. Find small shoots, typically called suckers, that need to be removed. Suckers can be found between the branches of the plant and the main stalk of the plant. Pinch off the suckers with your fingers. Do not use a shear for this process unless the sucker has been on the plant for awhile and is too thick to snap off.
Step 3
Cut off the top of the tomato plant where you want it to stop growing. Use sharp clean pruning shears to make an even cut across the main stalk. This cut may seem harmful to the tomato plant, but when a plant is getting too tall, it is likely strong and healthy if it is reaching outrageous heights. Once the stalk is pruned to your desired height, regularly check for suckers that grow at the top. Pinch the suckers off.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月08日
Blueberries contain small seeds almost not recognizable in comparison with other berries like raspberries or blackberries. These seeds will actually produce new plants just as they do in the wild setting, slowly carpeting the area with new plants. Blueberries are cold weather plants and need a few months of freezing to break the seed dormancy. Replicate the natural setting of an acid soil and watch the tiny seedlings emerge.
Step 1
Set a plastic bag of 8 oz. blueberries into the freezer for 90 days.
Step 2
Remove the bag from the freezer and empty the blueberries into a kitchen blender. Add 8 oz. water and pulse the blender on high for 15 seconds.
Step 3
Let the mixture settle for five minutes allowing the seeds to drop to the bottom. Pour off the water slowly, taking the pulpy material with it. Add another cup of water, blend, and drain three times.
Step 4
Pour the remaining seeds and water into a sieve lined with a coffee filter. Shake the seeds onto a paper towel to dry for about 30 minutes.
Step 5
Prepare a planting tray by taking finely ground dampened sphagnum moss and spreading it evenly over the surface.
Step 6
Sprinkle the seeds over the surface of the tray and then sprinkle a very fine layer of more ground sphagnum moss about 1/8-inch thick.
Step 7
Sprinkle 4 oz. water over the surface of the tray and then cover with two or three layers of newspaper.
Step 8
Keep in a warm room for a month, until the seeds have sprouted under the paper, making sure to sprinkle the tray with about 4 oz. water every few days, to keep them moist but not soggy.
Step 9
Remove the paper and keep the seedlings under grow lights or near a sunny window, watering them as needed to keep the moss moist until they are about 3 inches high.
Step 10
Transplant the blueberry seedlings into 8-oz. peat pots filled with equal parts sand, dampened peat moss and potting soil, being careful not to break the fragile roots.
Step 11
Fertilize the blueberry seedlings with a balanced liquid fertilizer every two weeks, according to the manufacturer's directions.
Step 12
Move the peat pots outside to a permanent location after the danger of frost has passed, keeping in mind that they need full sun, acid soil, and plenty of water but good drainage.
Step 13
Mulch them for the winter with 4 to 6 inches of sawdust, pine needles or pine bark mulch.
Step 1
Set a plastic bag of 8 oz. blueberries into the freezer for 90 days.
Step 2
Remove the bag from the freezer and empty the blueberries into a kitchen blender. Add 8 oz. water and pulse the blender on high for 15 seconds.
Step 3
Let the mixture settle for five minutes allowing the seeds to drop to the bottom. Pour off the water slowly, taking the pulpy material with it. Add another cup of water, blend, and drain three times.
Step 4
Pour the remaining seeds and water into a sieve lined with a coffee filter. Shake the seeds onto a paper towel to dry for about 30 minutes.
Step 5
Prepare a planting tray by taking finely ground dampened sphagnum moss and spreading it evenly over the surface.
Step 6
Sprinkle the seeds over the surface of the tray and then sprinkle a very fine layer of more ground sphagnum moss about 1/8-inch thick.
Step 7
Sprinkle 4 oz. water over the surface of the tray and then cover with two or three layers of newspaper.
Step 8
Keep in a warm room for a month, until the seeds have sprouted under the paper, making sure to sprinkle the tray with about 4 oz. water every few days, to keep them moist but not soggy.
Step 9
Remove the paper and keep the seedlings under grow lights or near a sunny window, watering them as needed to keep the moss moist until they are about 3 inches high.
Step 10
Transplant the blueberry seedlings into 8-oz. peat pots filled with equal parts sand, dampened peat moss and potting soil, being careful not to break the fragile roots.
Step 11
Fertilize the blueberry seedlings with a balanced liquid fertilizer every two weeks, according to the manufacturer's directions.
Step 12
Move the peat pots outside to a permanent location after the danger of frost has passed, keeping in mind that they need full sun, acid soil, and plenty of water but good drainage.
Step 13
Mulch them for the winter with 4 to 6 inches of sawdust, pine needles or pine bark mulch.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
Vine plants add depth to any garden, climbing over fences, trellises and walls. Like many vining plants, ornamental grape vines will not necessarily assume an attractive shape and climb exactly where you want them to -- even when you've got all the necessary supports in place. If you want your garden to look neat and well-tended, properly prune all ornamental grape vines to keep them under control.
Step 1
Prune ornamental grape vines while the plant is dormant, from late November to March. Late winter, January or February, is the best time for pruning.
Step 2
Identify the best-looking, sturdiest cane on the vine. All other canes should be pruned away with sharp hand shears, cut down to the base.
Step 3
Cut the top of the cane only if it is growing above the top of its support wire or structure.
Step 4
Tie the top of the cane to its support using standard twine.
Step 5
Cut away all the shoots on the cane except for three or four which are spaced widely apart.
Step 6
Remove all flower and fruit clusters from the vine in its second year of growth to make the vine stronger. Many ornamental grapes don't produce fruit, but if you are growing fruiting types as ornamentals this advice applies.
Step 7
Leave two to three canes on the vine during third-year pruning, cutting the remaining canes down so that only two to four buds remain on each.
Step 8
Locate fruit-bearing canes after the ornamental grape vine is 4 years old, pruning away all other canes and growth. Trim the remaining canes until they have six to 10 buds.
Step 1
Prune ornamental grape vines while the plant is dormant, from late November to March. Late winter, January or February, is the best time for pruning.
Step 2
Identify the best-looking, sturdiest cane on the vine. All other canes should be pruned away with sharp hand shears, cut down to the base.
Step 3
Cut the top of the cane only if it is growing above the top of its support wire or structure.
Step 4
Tie the top of the cane to its support using standard twine.
Step 5
Cut away all the shoots on the cane except for three or four which are spaced widely apart.
Step 6
Remove all flower and fruit clusters from the vine in its second year of growth to make the vine stronger. Many ornamental grapes don't produce fruit, but if you are growing fruiting types as ornamentals this advice applies.
Step 7
Leave two to three canes on the vine during third-year pruning, cutting the remaining canes down so that only two to four buds remain on each.
Step 8
Locate fruit-bearing canes after the ornamental grape vine is 4 years old, pruning away all other canes and growth. Trim the remaining canes until they have six to 10 buds.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
When eating berries found in the wild, it's important to identify them. The fruit of some plants may be edible, but the leaves and stems poisonous. Grapes are easy to spot, and no part of the plant is poisonous to humans.
Types
Grape vines and other parts of the grape vine such as leaves and roots are not poisonous to humans. Some poisonous plants, such as Canada moonseed, look similar to grape vines. All parts of that plant are poisonous and ingesting the plant can lead to seizures and convulsions.
Significance
Grapes, raisins, grape vines and all parts of the grape vine including its leaves, are thought to be poisonous to dogs. While some dogs have no adverse reactions after eating grapes or grape vine, others become extremely ill, so caution should be exercised. Grape vines can be used for decoration in birdcages, as they are not toxic to birds.
Fun Fact
Grape vines can be used in survival situations as a source of water. Cut the vine as close to the ground as possible and cut a long slit down the entire length of the vine so water begins flowing out the vine's bottom.
Types
Grape vines and other parts of the grape vine such as leaves and roots are not poisonous to humans. Some poisonous plants, such as Canada moonseed, look similar to grape vines. All parts of that plant are poisonous and ingesting the plant can lead to seizures and convulsions.
Significance
Grapes, raisins, grape vines and all parts of the grape vine including its leaves, are thought to be poisonous to dogs. While some dogs have no adverse reactions after eating grapes or grape vine, others become extremely ill, so caution should be exercised. Grape vines can be used for decoration in birdcages, as they are not toxic to birds.
Fun Fact
Grape vines can be used in survival situations as a source of water. Cut the vine as close to the ground as possible and cut a long slit down the entire length of the vine so water begins flowing out the vine's bottom.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
The seeds contained in a fresh tomato look just the same as the seeds in a seed packet bought from a garden supply store. Under the right circumstances, these seeds can grow into tomato plants for next year's garden. So this summer, before you eat the last fresh tomato from the vine, think about using it to start plants for your garden.
Hormone Inhibitors
The seeds from tomatoes are ready to germinate almost before the tomatoes are ripe. This happens because tomatoes are tropical plants; in areas where there is no winter weather, they would continue to grow and bear fruit. Since in its native habitat no extreme temperature would kill the young seedling, the seeds do not need a time of dormancy. The only inhibitor is the presence of a hormone in the gel surrounding the seed. Remove this, and the seed will usually sprout under conditions containing warmth and moisture.
Moisture
Tomato seeds need moisture to germinate. Keep them wrapped in a damp paper towel under a plastic covering to hold in the moisture. Watch the seeds for about a week, and you should see root sprouts emerge. For garden seedlings, plant the tomato seeds in a light-weight, seed-starting mix.
Warmth
Provide fresh tomato seeds with the same temperature they would have in their native environment. This is easy in the home where the normal temperature fluctuates between 69 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep seedlings indoors until the outside temperatures are in the 70s and the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Light
Provide bright light for the new seedlings since they need to start the process of photosynthesis quickly after germination. Once the little green leaves emerge, they need bright light as would be found in the tropics. Northern gardeners might have to supplement the light from a sunny window with grow lights, since the angle of the sun in early spring causes a less intense light.
Soil
Provide the sprouted seedlings from the fresh tomato with clean soil made from equal parts of dampened peat moss, perlite and potting soil. The inside of a tomato provides a sterile environment for the seed, and you don't want to start problems by using a soil that might be contaminated with fungi spores. Once the tomato plant matures, it can tolerate the fungi and microbial activity of the typical garden.
Hormone Inhibitors
The seeds from tomatoes are ready to germinate almost before the tomatoes are ripe. This happens because tomatoes are tropical plants; in areas where there is no winter weather, they would continue to grow and bear fruit. Since in its native habitat no extreme temperature would kill the young seedling, the seeds do not need a time of dormancy. The only inhibitor is the presence of a hormone in the gel surrounding the seed. Remove this, and the seed will usually sprout under conditions containing warmth and moisture.
Moisture
Tomato seeds need moisture to germinate. Keep them wrapped in a damp paper towel under a plastic covering to hold in the moisture. Watch the seeds for about a week, and you should see root sprouts emerge. For garden seedlings, plant the tomato seeds in a light-weight, seed-starting mix.
Warmth
Provide fresh tomato seeds with the same temperature they would have in their native environment. This is easy in the home where the normal temperature fluctuates between 69 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep seedlings indoors until the outside temperatures are in the 70s and the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Light
Provide bright light for the new seedlings since they need to start the process of photosynthesis quickly after germination. Once the little green leaves emerge, they need bright light as would be found in the tropics. Northern gardeners might have to supplement the light from a sunny window with grow lights, since the angle of the sun in early spring causes a less intense light.
Soil
Provide the sprouted seedlings from the fresh tomato with clean soil made from equal parts of dampened peat moss, perlite and potting soil. The inside of a tomato provides a sterile environment for the seed, and you don't want to start problems by using a soil that might be contaminated with fungi spores. Once the tomato plant matures, it can tolerate the fungi and microbial activity of the typical garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
Many inexperienced gardeners who are attempting to grow their own tomatoes for the first time provide too much water for the tomato plants. Signs of excessive water include wilting leaves, which novice gardeners often misinterpret as an indication that the plants require more water rather than less. Correcting your approach to watering and providing overly hydrated tomato plants with consistent, careful treatment thereafter might yet produce a good crop of tomatoes.
Step 1
Confirm that your tomato plants' symptoms are related to excessive watering. Signs of overwatering include standing water and soil that is very wet and muddy when touched. The presence of wilting leaves and very wet soil indicates the plants have been overwatered.
Step 2
Prune the plants—by pinching or with scissors—to increase airflow, which may in turn prevent mold or mildew. Remove only young leaves and shoots. Eliminate only shoots and suckers that are 1 inch long or shorter at the base. Do not cut or nick fully grown branches or the main stems.
Step 3
Stop watering your tomato plants until the soil has dried out to an appropriate level of moisture. The soil should be damp when touched, but it should not be soaking wet.
Step 4
Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 6 inches thick around the plants, leaving a 2-inch radius around the base of each plant free of mulch. Use either leaf mold, newspaper or straw for the best results. Water the plants after applying the mulch.
Step 5
Create and maintain a regular watering schedule. Tomato plants benefit from regular moderate irrigation—a little bit of water every day rather than gross fluctuations in watering routine. Water the plants early in the morning rather than later in the day for the best results.
Step 1
Confirm that your tomato plants' symptoms are related to excessive watering. Signs of overwatering include standing water and soil that is very wet and muddy when touched. The presence of wilting leaves and very wet soil indicates the plants have been overwatered.
Step 2
Prune the plants—by pinching or with scissors—to increase airflow, which may in turn prevent mold or mildew. Remove only young leaves and shoots. Eliminate only shoots and suckers that are 1 inch long or shorter at the base. Do not cut or nick fully grown branches or the main stems.
Step 3
Stop watering your tomato plants until the soil has dried out to an appropriate level of moisture. The soil should be damp when touched, but it should not be soaking wet.
Step 4
Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 6 inches thick around the plants, leaving a 2-inch radius around the base of each plant free of mulch. Use either leaf mold, newspaper or straw for the best results. Water the plants after applying the mulch.
Step 5
Create and maintain a regular watering schedule. Tomato plants benefit from regular moderate irrigation—a little bit of water every day rather than gross fluctuations in watering routine. Water the plants early in the morning rather than later in the day for the best results.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
Tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are frost-tender plants, and they're usually grown as an annual crop. Sowing tomato seeds indoors before frosts are over in spring prolongs the growing season, but the warm temperatures and low light levels indoors cause tall, thin, weak tomato seedlings. Starting tomatoes outdoors in shady areas also causes seedlings with those conditions. These leggy seedlings grow into thin-stemmed plants that break under the weight of a heavy crop, but you can fix leggy tomato seedlings when you transplant them into your garden.
Burying Seedling Stems
Burying tomato seedling stems when transplanting the seedlings into the garden helps cure legginess. Tomato stems can develop roots. Young roots appear as small, white bumps at the stem bases, but roots also can develop higher on the stems when they're buried in moist soil. Burying tomato stems when transplanting leggy seedlings leads to large, healthy root systems and does no harm.
Tomato seedlings must be transplanted into an area where they receive at least eight hours of direct sunlight every day, or else they will grow leggy. Wait until after your location's final average annual frost date before transplanting tomatoes outdoors.
Digging Trenches
Burying leggy tomato seedlings in long, shallow trenches provides the best results. Tomato roots grow best in warm, moist soil that contains plenty of oxygen. Burying the seedlings vertically places their root balls deep in cold soil with low levels of oxygen, but placing the seedlings horizontally in shallow trenches keeps the roots near the warm, airy soil at the ground's surface.
Dig a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and as long as a tomato seedling's root ball and stem are to the top two or three sets of leaves. Pinch off the leaves below the top two or three sets, and place the tomato seedling in the trench. Angle the stem area that will remain above ground away from the soil surface. Cover the rest of the stem with soil that you removed while making the trench.
Caring for Transplanted Seedlings
Leggy tomato seedlings need moist soil to develop new roots and grow strongly. Water transplanted seedlings immediately so that their soil is moist to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, and water them again each time the soil surface is dry. Don't water the seedlings so much that the ground becomes soggy.
The above-ground portions of transplanted seedlings' stems straighten and grow vertically over time. You can encourage them to grow straight by pushing a stake, or cane, into the soil next to each plant and loosely tying the stems to the canes with twine.
Avoiding Leggy Seedlings
Sowing tomato seeds at the right time, in good light and at cool temperatures prevents leggy seedlings. Short, stocky, thick-stemmed tomato seedlings become the best mature plants.
Sow tomato seeds five to six weeks before the final average annual frost date, and place them in a cool, bright indoor area, such as a south-facing window. Provide them with temperatures warmer than 32 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 60 F during the day but not warmer than 65 F. When the seedlings appear above the soil, turn their pots or seedling trays every day to help prevent the seedlings from leaning toward light. Pots and seedling trays for tomato plants must have bottom drainage holes.
Burying Seedling Stems
Burying tomato seedling stems when transplanting the seedlings into the garden helps cure legginess. Tomato stems can develop roots. Young roots appear as small, white bumps at the stem bases, but roots also can develop higher on the stems when they're buried in moist soil. Burying tomato stems when transplanting leggy seedlings leads to large, healthy root systems and does no harm.
Tomato seedlings must be transplanted into an area where they receive at least eight hours of direct sunlight every day, or else they will grow leggy. Wait until after your location's final average annual frost date before transplanting tomatoes outdoors.
Digging Trenches
Burying leggy tomato seedlings in long, shallow trenches provides the best results. Tomato roots grow best in warm, moist soil that contains plenty of oxygen. Burying the seedlings vertically places their root balls deep in cold soil with low levels of oxygen, but placing the seedlings horizontally in shallow trenches keeps the roots near the warm, airy soil at the ground's surface.
Dig a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and as long as a tomato seedling's root ball and stem are to the top two or three sets of leaves. Pinch off the leaves below the top two or three sets, and place the tomato seedling in the trench. Angle the stem area that will remain above ground away from the soil surface. Cover the rest of the stem with soil that you removed while making the trench.
Caring for Transplanted Seedlings
Leggy tomato seedlings need moist soil to develop new roots and grow strongly. Water transplanted seedlings immediately so that their soil is moist to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, and water them again each time the soil surface is dry. Don't water the seedlings so much that the ground becomes soggy.
The above-ground portions of transplanted seedlings' stems straighten and grow vertically over time. You can encourage them to grow straight by pushing a stake, or cane, into the soil next to each plant and loosely tying the stems to the canes with twine.
Avoiding Leggy Seedlings
Sowing tomato seeds at the right time, in good light and at cool temperatures prevents leggy seedlings. Short, stocky, thick-stemmed tomato seedlings become the best mature plants.
Sow tomato seeds five to six weeks before the final average annual frost date, and place them in a cool, bright indoor area, such as a south-facing window. Provide them with temperatures warmer than 32 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 60 F during the day but not warmer than 65 F. When the seedlings appear above the soil, turn their pots or seedling trays every day to help prevent the seedlings from leaning toward light. Pots and seedling trays for tomato plants must have bottom drainage holes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月04日
Blueberries are popular fruit for home growing, especially in areas with moist or acidic soil. These bushes produce fruit that works well for fresh, cooked or frozen use. Like other plants, blueberry bushes go through a specific set of stages over the course of their lives. This life cycle can be influenced, but not changed, by environmental factors.
Seed
Each blueberry fruit contains many extremely tiny seeds. In nature, unharvested fruit falls to the ground. As it decays, the seeds come into contact with the soil, sprouting the next spring when the weather warms. Birds and mammals also eat blueberry fruit, dispersing seeds. Most cultivated blueberries are not actually grown from seed. Instead, they're grown from cuttings, and are really just clones of the parent plant. Blueberry seeds will produce genetically different offspring.
Growth
Blueberry seeds begin to germinate when temperatures reach 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to the University of Maine Extension website, they take about a month to germinate and emerge from the soil. They grow quickly, becoming small bushes within a few months. As cold weather approaches, blueberry bushes become dormant for the winter. They shut down their life processes during the cold months, and can survive temperatures as low as minus-10 degrees Fahrenheit. When weather warms again, the roots revive and begin to provide sugar for later growth. Blueberry bushes can live for up to 30 to 50 years, according to the University of Minnesota Extension website. They may take several years to reach maturity and produce fruit.
Flower
Adult blueberry plants put out clusters of six to 12 small white flowers in late spring. These flowers open starting at the base of the bud. Blueberries cannot pollinate themselves, and require bees to fertilize their flowers. Several species, including bumble bees, honeybees, carpenter bees and southeastern blueberry bees, visit these flowers and transfer pollen from the anthers to the stigma, allowing the adult bush to fruit and reproduce.
Fruit
Fertilized blueberry flowers produce the familiar purplish-blue berry within a few weeks of blooming. According to the Michigan State University Extension website, the first flowers pollinated usually fruit sooner and produce larger blueberries. This occurs because fruit at the bottom of the cluster receives sugars and other nutrients from the roots before fruit at the top of the cluster.
Seed
Each blueberry fruit contains many extremely tiny seeds. In nature, unharvested fruit falls to the ground. As it decays, the seeds come into contact with the soil, sprouting the next spring when the weather warms. Birds and mammals also eat blueberry fruit, dispersing seeds. Most cultivated blueberries are not actually grown from seed. Instead, they're grown from cuttings, and are really just clones of the parent plant. Blueberry seeds will produce genetically different offspring.
Growth
Blueberry seeds begin to germinate when temperatures reach 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to the University of Maine Extension website, they take about a month to germinate and emerge from the soil. They grow quickly, becoming small bushes within a few months. As cold weather approaches, blueberry bushes become dormant for the winter. They shut down their life processes during the cold months, and can survive temperatures as low as minus-10 degrees Fahrenheit. When weather warms again, the roots revive and begin to provide sugar for later growth. Blueberry bushes can live for up to 30 to 50 years, according to the University of Minnesota Extension website. They may take several years to reach maturity and produce fruit.
Flower
Adult blueberry plants put out clusters of six to 12 small white flowers in late spring. These flowers open starting at the base of the bud. Blueberries cannot pollinate themselves, and require bees to fertilize their flowers. Several species, including bumble bees, honeybees, carpenter bees and southeastern blueberry bees, visit these flowers and transfer pollen from the anthers to the stigma, allowing the adult bush to fruit and reproduce.
Fruit
Fertilized blueberry flowers produce the familiar purplish-blue berry within a few weeks of blooming. According to the Michigan State University Extension website, the first flowers pollinated usually fruit sooner and produce larger blueberries. This occurs because fruit at the bottom of the cluster receives sugars and other nutrients from the roots before fruit at the top of the cluster.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月04日
Both blueberries and black currants are small, dark-colored berries that grow in dense clusters on the branches of their bushes. The similarities end there, however -- the two types of plants are quite different in both their growth preferences and the flavor of their berries.
Blueberry Types and Growth Habits
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are deciduous shrubs that produce clusters of small purple-blue berries in the summer. The sweet berries are highly desirable as a fresh fruit, and are a favorite food of wildlife.
The size of the bushes varies depending on the species. Full-sized bushes, called highbush blueberries, may grow as high as 5 feet with a similar spread, and some varieties of heat-loving rabbiteye blueberries may grow to twice that height. Low-growing species, called lowbush blueberries, tend to hug the ground and may get no taller than a foot or two. Hybrids of lowbush and highbush types, called half-high bushes, grow to somewhere in between and have been developed largely for their cold tolerance.
Black Currant Types and Growth Habits
The European black currant (Ribes nigrum) is a deciduous shrub that reaches a height of about 6 feet. American black currant (Ribes americanum), also sometimes called wild black currant, is a low-growing shrub that generally grows to between 3 and 6 feet in height; it is native to North America and is considered an invasive weed in some areas.
Both species produce small, purple-black berries in the summer. The flavor of the berries is significantly more tart than that of blueberries, and black currants are more often used in jams and jellies than they are eaten fresh.
Soil Preferences
Blueberries' need for acidic soil is one of the plant's defining characteristics; blueberries simply will not flourish or produce well unless they're grown in soil with a pH level between 4 and 5. Black currants, by contrast, don't like acidic soil and do best when the soil pH is near neutral, with a level between 6.7 and 7. However, both plants like well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. Blueberries are especially intolerant of excessive moisture, and their shallow root systems are easily damaged by standing water.
Winter Hardiness
European black currants are winter hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 8; wild black currants are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 6. The bushes can withstand winter cold in these zones, but their flowers may be damaged by freezing temperatures in the spring. Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) are somewhat more sensitive to cold and more tolerant of heat; they are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9. Lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) are, in general, more cold hardy; some varieties are hardy in USDA zones 2 to 8. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei) are the least cold tolerant of the blueberry species -- they can handle winters only in USDA zones 8 to 10.
Blueberry Types and Growth Habits
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are deciduous shrubs that produce clusters of small purple-blue berries in the summer. The sweet berries are highly desirable as a fresh fruit, and are a favorite food of wildlife.
The size of the bushes varies depending on the species. Full-sized bushes, called highbush blueberries, may grow as high as 5 feet with a similar spread, and some varieties of heat-loving rabbiteye blueberries may grow to twice that height. Low-growing species, called lowbush blueberries, tend to hug the ground and may get no taller than a foot or two. Hybrids of lowbush and highbush types, called half-high bushes, grow to somewhere in between and have been developed largely for their cold tolerance.
Black Currant Types and Growth Habits
The European black currant (Ribes nigrum) is a deciduous shrub that reaches a height of about 6 feet. American black currant (Ribes americanum), also sometimes called wild black currant, is a low-growing shrub that generally grows to between 3 and 6 feet in height; it is native to North America and is considered an invasive weed in some areas.
Both species produce small, purple-black berries in the summer. The flavor of the berries is significantly more tart than that of blueberries, and black currants are more often used in jams and jellies than they are eaten fresh.
Soil Preferences
Blueberries' need for acidic soil is one of the plant's defining characteristics; blueberries simply will not flourish or produce well unless they're grown in soil with a pH level between 4 and 5. Black currants, by contrast, don't like acidic soil and do best when the soil pH is near neutral, with a level between 6.7 and 7. However, both plants like well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. Blueberries are especially intolerant of excessive moisture, and their shallow root systems are easily damaged by standing water.
Winter Hardiness
European black currants are winter hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 8; wild black currants are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 6. The bushes can withstand winter cold in these zones, but their flowers may be damaged by freezing temperatures in the spring. Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) are somewhat more sensitive to cold and more tolerant of heat; they are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9. Lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) are, in general, more cold hardy; some varieties are hardy in USDA zones 2 to 8. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei) are the least cold tolerant of the blueberry species -- they can handle winters only in USDA zones 8 to 10.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月04日
Blueberry bushes are perennial, woody plants offering both ornamental foliage and edible fruit, making them increasingly popular in home landscapes, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. They can be challenging to grow, however. When your plant produces small blueberries, it may be due to one or more reasons, including variety, maturity and care.
Features
Native to the United States, blueberries traditionally grow commercially in cool zones such as the Pacific Northwest and north-central regions. Thanks to new cultivars, blueberries now grow in temperate climates from Florida to California. Blueberry varieties range from large-fruit blueberries such as "Chandler" to small-fruit such as "Rubel." Size is no indicator of flavor, as small berries often have rich taste suited to baking pies. Your blueberries may be small because the bush is a small-fruit bush. Consider planting a companion blueberry of a different variety as the cross-pollination frequently results in larger fruit on your original bush.
Maturity
Blueberry bushes mature slowly. A blueberry bush begins fruiting at one or two years, but the bush is not fully productive until it is six to eight years old. Young bushes yield small fruit. Rub off the flowers if your bush is young; flowers take nutrition away from the growing bush. While the plant is young, the vegetative growth helps the bush develop strong canes and roots but flowering and fruit production hinder growth, resulting in a small bush and sparse fruit.
Pruning
Blueberries produce fruit on new and vigorous wood. As the bush matures at five years, look for old and weak canes. Prune these off at ground level in late winter or early spring. A rule of thumb is that the thicker the wood, the larger the fruit. Old and weak wood yields small berries. As blueberries fruit on one-year canes, keep the strongest mature canes and two or three new canes that will yield next year's crop.
Flowers
Flowers mature into blueberries, but too many flowers on mature bushes result in small berries. Remove at least half the flowers and tiny fruit so that the remaining fruit is large and juicy. Thin the flowers by rubbing them off with your fingers or gloves. Another method is pruning the flowering shrub. Often the weak and stunted twigs have the most flowers and fewest leaves. Prune these twigs and flowers near the end of flowering season. This reduces strain on the canes and encourages fruit production, larger fruit and healthier plants.
Water
Blueberry plants are thirsty. They have shallow roots and need a minimum of 1 to 2 inches water per week in spring and summer. Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation so that water does not splash on the foliage and encourage disease. Water deprivation results in small berries and sparse production.
Features
Native to the United States, blueberries traditionally grow commercially in cool zones such as the Pacific Northwest and north-central regions. Thanks to new cultivars, blueberries now grow in temperate climates from Florida to California. Blueberry varieties range from large-fruit blueberries such as "Chandler" to small-fruit such as "Rubel." Size is no indicator of flavor, as small berries often have rich taste suited to baking pies. Your blueberries may be small because the bush is a small-fruit bush. Consider planting a companion blueberry of a different variety as the cross-pollination frequently results in larger fruit on your original bush.
Maturity
Blueberry bushes mature slowly. A blueberry bush begins fruiting at one or two years, but the bush is not fully productive until it is six to eight years old. Young bushes yield small fruit. Rub off the flowers if your bush is young; flowers take nutrition away from the growing bush. While the plant is young, the vegetative growth helps the bush develop strong canes and roots but flowering and fruit production hinder growth, resulting in a small bush and sparse fruit.
Pruning
Blueberries produce fruit on new and vigorous wood. As the bush matures at five years, look for old and weak canes. Prune these off at ground level in late winter or early spring. A rule of thumb is that the thicker the wood, the larger the fruit. Old and weak wood yields small berries. As blueberries fruit on one-year canes, keep the strongest mature canes and two or three new canes that will yield next year's crop.
Flowers
Flowers mature into blueberries, but too many flowers on mature bushes result in small berries. Remove at least half the flowers and tiny fruit so that the remaining fruit is large and juicy. Thin the flowers by rubbing them off with your fingers or gloves. Another method is pruning the flowering shrub. Often the weak and stunted twigs have the most flowers and fewest leaves. Prune these twigs and flowers near the end of flowering season. This reduces strain on the canes and encourages fruit production, larger fruit and healthier plants.
Water
Blueberry plants are thirsty. They have shallow roots and need a minimum of 1 to 2 inches water per week in spring and summer. Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation so that water does not splash on the foliage and encourage disease. Water deprivation results in small berries and sparse production.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月01日
In a small home garden, space is often at a premium. You may find yourself crowding together plants or allowing them to mingle with their neighbors just to fit them all in. Sometimes it can be difficult to balance the needs and match the effects of two plants on each other. However, cucumbers and tomatoes grow quite well together.
Compatibility
Cucumbers are considered compatible with tomatoes. The two plants are companion plants, mutually beneficial to each other. Companion plants help one another in several ways, including making it more difficult for pests to adapt to the defenses of a single plant and by providing food and shelter for beneficial insects. Both tomatoes and cucumbers dislike growing near potatoes.
Needs
Tomatoes and cucumbers share many of the same basic needs. Cucumbers require 50 to 70 days to reach maturity, while tomatoes need 55 to 105 days, depending on the variety. Both are warm-season crops that require good drainage and a soil pH of 5.8 to 6.5. Because both require deep watering and a consistent supply of water to help fruit develop properly, having the two share space in the garden makes sense.
Placement
When planting your tomatoes and cucumbers together, you can opt to let the cucumber vines grow along the ground in the space between tomato plants, or train the vines onto the same supports you use for tomatoes. This mingling of plants is called diversified planting, which the Alabama Cooperative Extension System suggests as a strategy to make it harder for insect pests to find and damage specific crops. Because either crop can develop mold problems under moist conditions and crowding, allow plenty of space for air to circulate between plants.
Disease
When growing these two crops together, you must consider the potential for disease. While cucumber mosaic virus does affect both tomatoes and cucumbers, the disease is not limited to these two crops -- it affects more than 40 families of plants. Phytophthora blight is a more serious issue, as it can ravage both cucumbers and tomatoes. Rotate crops to prevent infection, leaving a period of three years between repeat uses of a space for cucurbit and solanaceous crops. When you pair tomatoes and cucumbers in the same space in the same year, that effectively gives you double use of one susceptible area before you have to rotate in another crop.
Compatibility
Cucumbers are considered compatible with tomatoes. The two plants are companion plants, mutually beneficial to each other. Companion plants help one another in several ways, including making it more difficult for pests to adapt to the defenses of a single plant and by providing food and shelter for beneficial insects. Both tomatoes and cucumbers dislike growing near potatoes.
Needs
Tomatoes and cucumbers share many of the same basic needs. Cucumbers require 50 to 70 days to reach maturity, while tomatoes need 55 to 105 days, depending on the variety. Both are warm-season crops that require good drainage and a soil pH of 5.8 to 6.5. Because both require deep watering and a consistent supply of water to help fruit develop properly, having the two share space in the garden makes sense.
Placement
When planting your tomatoes and cucumbers together, you can opt to let the cucumber vines grow along the ground in the space between tomato plants, or train the vines onto the same supports you use for tomatoes. This mingling of plants is called diversified planting, which the Alabama Cooperative Extension System suggests as a strategy to make it harder for insect pests to find and damage specific crops. Because either crop can develop mold problems under moist conditions and crowding, allow plenty of space for air to circulate between plants.
Disease
When growing these two crops together, you must consider the potential for disease. While cucumber mosaic virus does affect both tomatoes and cucumbers, the disease is not limited to these two crops -- it affects more than 40 families of plants. Phytophthora blight is a more serious issue, as it can ravage both cucumbers and tomatoes. Rotate crops to prevent infection, leaving a period of three years between repeat uses of a space for cucurbit and solanaceous crops. When you pair tomatoes and cucumbers in the same space in the same year, that effectively gives you double use of one susceptible area before you have to rotate in another crop.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月01日
Homegrown fresh tomatoes are, for some, one of the best things to come out of summer. Many gardeners watch their tomato plants all summer, waiting for the day when that first tomato can be picked and eaten. But, at times, that first bite can bring disappointment instead of joy when the tomato has a mushy, soft texture instead of the expected firm, juicy taste. Growing techniques, plants and over-watering can all impact a tomato.
Type of Plant
Some varieties of tomatoes are just naturally mushier than others. The New York Times notes that more and more gardeners are leaning toward old-fashioned tomato plants that tend to be softer and bruise much easier. Tomatoes including the Jenny Lind and the Mr. Eliason used to be harder to find because they are not able to be used commercially, but the plants are making a comeback and, if you mistakenly purchase one of these, your tomatoes will be mushy. To combat this, make sure you know the properties of the type of tomato you purchase before you plant it.
Growing Environment
The tomato plant loves heat and flourishes in warm environments. You should not plant your tomatoes until the soil temperature has reached 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and your air temperatures are not falling below 60 degrees. If you plant your tomatoes and then have a cold spell, cover the plants with a sheet, newspaper or other protective item. If your tomatoes get too cold, the insides can break down, resulting in a mushy tomato.
Watering
Tomatoes, like any plant, need water to grow, but too much water can make the tomatoes mushy, and too little water can cause the tomatoes to rot. A good rule of thumb, according to the How to Garden Guide website, is to water your tomatoes when the top inch of soil is dry. This normally equates to 1 inch of water once a week in the summer. Water your plants in the morning and water the roots, or ground, not the plants.
Tomato Storage
Once you've grown the perfect tomato, you can still end up with a mushy result due to improper storage. Tomatoes like warmth and should not be kept in the refrigerator, if at all possible. The cold can cause a chemical in the tomato to disappear, which results in a mushy tomato. Tomatoes are best stored on the kitchen counter, in a basket, with the stem facing upward.
Type of Plant
Some varieties of tomatoes are just naturally mushier than others. The New York Times notes that more and more gardeners are leaning toward old-fashioned tomato plants that tend to be softer and bruise much easier. Tomatoes including the Jenny Lind and the Mr. Eliason used to be harder to find because they are not able to be used commercially, but the plants are making a comeback and, if you mistakenly purchase one of these, your tomatoes will be mushy. To combat this, make sure you know the properties of the type of tomato you purchase before you plant it.
Growing Environment
The tomato plant loves heat and flourishes in warm environments. You should not plant your tomatoes until the soil temperature has reached 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and your air temperatures are not falling below 60 degrees. If you plant your tomatoes and then have a cold spell, cover the plants with a sheet, newspaper or other protective item. If your tomatoes get too cold, the insides can break down, resulting in a mushy tomato.
Watering
Tomatoes, like any plant, need water to grow, but too much water can make the tomatoes mushy, and too little water can cause the tomatoes to rot. A good rule of thumb, according to the How to Garden Guide website, is to water your tomatoes when the top inch of soil is dry. This normally equates to 1 inch of water once a week in the summer. Water your plants in the morning and water the roots, or ground, not the plants.
Tomato Storage
Once you've grown the perfect tomato, you can still end up with a mushy result due to improper storage. Tomatoes like warmth and should not be kept in the refrigerator, if at all possible. The cold can cause a chemical in the tomato to disappear, which results in a mushy tomato. Tomatoes are best stored on the kitchen counter, in a basket, with the stem facing upward.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
People have grown grapevines (Vitus spp.) for thousands of years, not only enjoying the plants' fruits fresh but also in the form of raisins, juice and wine. Although wildlife may compete with you for the bounty of your vineyard, it's still possible to grow enough of the fruits at home to give you and your family a healthful and tasty treat, though it won't happen overnight. Usually, establishing a successful grapevine planting takes three years, according to the Ohio State University Extension. Because grapevines can live up to 100 years, growing them right is worth the trouble.
Check Your Climate
Grapevines are typically perennial, or hardy, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones ranging 5 through 10, with some varieties needing the warmer temperatures USDA zones 7 through 10. A few types can handle a bit more cold, surviving in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Choose Where to Plant
A vineyard needs plenty of sunlight, at least seven to eight hours of direct sun exposure per day, to ensure maximum fruit production and flavor. Many kinds of soil work for grapevines, but rock or hard-pan should be at least 3 to 4 feet below the soil. Soil with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal for grapevines. Fertile soil works well, but, according to the University of California's California Garden Web, many of the top wine grapes come from areas where the soil is rocky and lacks fertility. Good drainage is essential for any type of soil in which grapevines grow.
Plant Correctly
Grapevines should be planted in spring in rows 8 to 12 feet apart. Each vine within a row should be 6 to 9 feet from the next vine. The vines need a framework such as an arbor or trellis to keep them and their fruits off the ground. Ensure each plant has 50 to 100 square feet of arbor space.
Support Your Vines
The trellis or arbor should be in place before you plant grapevines. A trellis is typically a series of posts set along each row with wires stretched tightly from post to post for the row's the entire length. An arbor is larger and may support vines up its sides and over its top. New grape vines must be trained to climb either support by tying them loosely to the support until they begin to cling to it on their own.
Fertilize Properly
Grapes don't require a lot of fertilizer to produce fruits. For the best results:
Fertilize your grapevines at bud break, which is when the small leaf buds on each vine begin to swell in preparation for new growth.
Feed each grapevine about 1/2 to 1 ounce of nitrogen by using a fertilizer such as 16-16-16 the year you planted the vines.
Determine how much fertilizer to use by first figuring out the amount of nitrogen in the product. The first number, or percentage, in a fertilizer's three numbers is the product's amount, or percentage, of nitrogen. The nitrogen amount is 16 percent, or 0.16, in 16-16-16 fertilizer.
Divide the amount of nitrogen you want to apply to each grapevine by the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer to get the total amount of the fertilizer to apply per plant. If you want to apply 1 ounce of nitrogen using 16-16-16 fertilizer, then divide 1 by 16, which results in roughly 6.3 ounces of fertilizerper plant.3. Increase the fertilizer amount to 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of nitrogen per plant the second year.
Don't let the fertilizer touch the vines. Instead, spread it in a circle that is 6 to 18 inches from all sides of each plant. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying.
Provide Water and Mulch
Whether or not your grapevines need watering depends on the soil and your climate. In many areas, no water beyond rainfall is needed. If the soil dries out, though, irrigate it enough to allow water to seep into the ground to a depth of about 12 inches.
Adding mulch onto the soil surface around the base of each grapevine will help keep the plants from drying out. The mulch shouldn't touch the grapevines, however, because it may cause them to rot. The mulch layer should be 4 to 6 inches deep.
Check Your Climate
Grapevines are typically perennial, or hardy, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones ranging 5 through 10, with some varieties needing the warmer temperatures USDA zones 7 through 10. A few types can handle a bit more cold, surviving in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Choose Where to Plant
A vineyard needs plenty of sunlight, at least seven to eight hours of direct sun exposure per day, to ensure maximum fruit production and flavor. Many kinds of soil work for grapevines, but rock or hard-pan should be at least 3 to 4 feet below the soil. Soil with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal for grapevines. Fertile soil works well, but, according to the University of California's California Garden Web, many of the top wine grapes come from areas where the soil is rocky and lacks fertility. Good drainage is essential for any type of soil in which grapevines grow.
Plant Correctly
Grapevines should be planted in spring in rows 8 to 12 feet apart. Each vine within a row should be 6 to 9 feet from the next vine. The vines need a framework such as an arbor or trellis to keep them and their fruits off the ground. Ensure each plant has 50 to 100 square feet of arbor space.
Support Your Vines
The trellis or arbor should be in place before you plant grapevines. A trellis is typically a series of posts set along each row with wires stretched tightly from post to post for the row's the entire length. An arbor is larger and may support vines up its sides and over its top. New grape vines must be trained to climb either support by tying them loosely to the support until they begin to cling to it on their own.
Fertilize Properly
Grapes don't require a lot of fertilizer to produce fruits. For the best results:
Fertilize your grapevines at bud break, which is when the small leaf buds on each vine begin to swell in preparation for new growth.
Feed each grapevine about 1/2 to 1 ounce of nitrogen by using a fertilizer such as 16-16-16 the year you planted the vines.
Determine how much fertilizer to use by first figuring out the amount of nitrogen in the product. The first number, or percentage, in a fertilizer's three numbers is the product's amount, or percentage, of nitrogen. The nitrogen amount is 16 percent, or 0.16, in 16-16-16 fertilizer.
Divide the amount of nitrogen you want to apply to each grapevine by the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer to get the total amount of the fertilizer to apply per plant. If you want to apply 1 ounce of nitrogen using 16-16-16 fertilizer, then divide 1 by 16, which results in roughly 6.3 ounces of fertilizerper plant.3. Increase the fertilizer amount to 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of nitrogen per plant the second year.
Don't let the fertilizer touch the vines. Instead, spread it in a circle that is 6 to 18 inches from all sides of each plant. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying.
Provide Water and Mulch
Whether or not your grapevines need watering depends on the soil and your climate. In many areas, no water beyond rainfall is needed. If the soil dries out, though, irrigate it enough to allow water to seep into the ground to a depth of about 12 inches.
Adding mulch onto the soil surface around the base of each grapevine will help keep the plants from drying out. The mulch shouldn't touch the grapevines, however, because it may cause them to rot. The mulch layer should be 4 to 6 inches deep.
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