文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum) are prized for their crimson, juicy fruit. You're not the only one who enjoys the taste of tomatoes. Various pests may attack and feed on the tomato plant's fruit and foliage, causing leaf loss, plant stress and potential fruit loss. Protect your garden from some of the most common pests that afflict tomato plants.
Psyllids
Psyllids are tiny yellow or green insects that congregate on the underside of tomato leaves and inject a poison into the leaves, turning the tomato plant's foliage yellow and purple. These pests rarely reach population levels that cause true damage; most gardeners simply dislike psyllids for aesthetic reasons.
If you choose to control and eradicate psyllids, make your own psyllid insecticide at home:
Step 1
Pour 1/2 ounce of liquid hand soap or liquid dish detergent into a reusable spray bottle.
Step 2
Add 2 quarts of water to the spray bottle.
Step 3
Mix thoroughly.
Step 4
Spray the soapy solution onto affected portions of the tomato plant, focusing on the underside of leaves where psyllids like to gather.
Step 5
Repeat once a week until psyllid activity subsides.
Flea Beetles
Flea beetles, another common tomato pest, are brown or black beetles that hop away from you when touched. The adult beetles eat small holes into the foliage of the tomato plant.
Cover the vegetable bed with a floating row cover to block out beetles and protect young tomato plants. A floating row cover is an ultralight, ultrathin landscaping sheet that keeps pests from reaching the underlying plants but still lets sunlight and water get through. Drape the row cover over the garden bed as soon as tomato seedlings emerge, and weigh down the edges of the sheet with rocks or with U-shaped garden pins.
If flea beetles have already arrived, a floating row cover will not help. Instead, dust all exposed surfaces of the tomato plants with food-grade diatomaceous earth. This all-natural powder is made from crushed diatoms. The powder's tiny, sharp edges kill flea beetles.
Hornworms
If you see large gray-green or green caterpillars crawling on your tomato plants, you have a tomato hornworm problem. This pest is a fast eater. In just a few days, the caterpillars can completely strip the entire tomato plant of its leaves and fruit.
Pick the hornworms off of the tomato plant by hand. This is a convenient, efficient and simple way to eradicate the problem. Crush the caterpillars or drop them into a bucket of soapy water to kill them.
If you prefer a hands-off approach, use an organic caterpillar insecticide made with Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki. Bt is a natural bacterium that kills caterpillars when it gets ingested. Bt insecticides come in sprays and powders.
Follow all labeled guidelines for product-specific application instructions. For example, when using a Bt insecticide powder with 0.4365 percent Bt, apply at a rate of 2 ounces for every 50 feet of row planting, dusting the powder evenly on all exposed parts of the tomato plant.
Whiteflies and Aphids
Whiteflies and aphids suck on the sap of the tomato plant and can cause wilting and leaf loss. A common symptom for either pest is the presence of honeydew -- a sticky, shiny substance excreted by the insects when they're feeding.
Spray the tomato plant with a strong jet of water from a garden hose. This is often all that's required to knock the aphids and whiteflies off of the plant and kill them. Repeat once a week to keep pest populations low.
Stink Bugs
Last but not least on the tomato plant's most-wanted pest list are stink bugs. These shield-shaped beetles come in various colors, including brown and green. If touched, they let out a pungent odor, hence their name. Stink bugs feed on tomato fruits causing spotting and the inner tissue becomes spongy and white. The first sign of damage appears as tiny dark spots surrounded by discoloring that can turn yellowish or green as the fruit matures.
Handpick the stink bugs off of the tomato plant -- wear gloves if you want to avoid their trademark stench -- and crush the bugs or drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Alternatively, use a handheld vacuum to quickly suck the insects off of the affected plant. Remove the vacuum's dust bag, place it in a sealed plastic bag and toss it in your freezer for a couple days to kill the trapped stink bugs.
Psyllids
Psyllids are tiny yellow or green insects that congregate on the underside of tomato leaves and inject a poison into the leaves, turning the tomato plant's foliage yellow and purple. These pests rarely reach population levels that cause true damage; most gardeners simply dislike psyllids for aesthetic reasons.
If you choose to control and eradicate psyllids, make your own psyllid insecticide at home:
Step 1
Pour 1/2 ounce of liquid hand soap or liquid dish detergent into a reusable spray bottle.
Step 2
Add 2 quarts of water to the spray bottle.
Step 3
Mix thoroughly.
Step 4
Spray the soapy solution onto affected portions of the tomato plant, focusing on the underside of leaves where psyllids like to gather.
Step 5
Repeat once a week until psyllid activity subsides.
Flea Beetles
Flea beetles, another common tomato pest, are brown or black beetles that hop away from you when touched. The adult beetles eat small holes into the foliage of the tomato plant.
Cover the vegetable bed with a floating row cover to block out beetles and protect young tomato plants. A floating row cover is an ultralight, ultrathin landscaping sheet that keeps pests from reaching the underlying plants but still lets sunlight and water get through. Drape the row cover over the garden bed as soon as tomato seedlings emerge, and weigh down the edges of the sheet with rocks or with U-shaped garden pins.
If flea beetles have already arrived, a floating row cover will not help. Instead, dust all exposed surfaces of the tomato plants with food-grade diatomaceous earth. This all-natural powder is made from crushed diatoms. The powder's tiny, sharp edges kill flea beetles.
Hornworms
If you see large gray-green or green caterpillars crawling on your tomato plants, you have a tomato hornworm problem. This pest is a fast eater. In just a few days, the caterpillars can completely strip the entire tomato plant of its leaves and fruit.
Pick the hornworms off of the tomato plant by hand. This is a convenient, efficient and simple way to eradicate the problem. Crush the caterpillars or drop them into a bucket of soapy water to kill them.
If you prefer a hands-off approach, use an organic caterpillar insecticide made with Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki. Bt is a natural bacterium that kills caterpillars when it gets ingested. Bt insecticides come in sprays and powders.
Follow all labeled guidelines for product-specific application instructions. For example, when using a Bt insecticide powder with 0.4365 percent Bt, apply at a rate of 2 ounces for every 50 feet of row planting, dusting the powder evenly on all exposed parts of the tomato plant.
Whiteflies and Aphids
Whiteflies and aphids suck on the sap of the tomato plant and can cause wilting and leaf loss. A common symptom for either pest is the presence of honeydew -- a sticky, shiny substance excreted by the insects when they're feeding.
Spray the tomato plant with a strong jet of water from a garden hose. This is often all that's required to knock the aphids and whiteflies off of the plant and kill them. Repeat once a week to keep pest populations low.
Stink Bugs
Last but not least on the tomato plant's most-wanted pest list are stink bugs. These shield-shaped beetles come in various colors, including brown and green. If touched, they let out a pungent odor, hence their name. Stink bugs feed on tomato fruits causing spotting and the inner tissue becomes spongy and white. The first sign of damage appears as tiny dark spots surrounded by discoloring that can turn yellowish or green as the fruit matures.
Handpick the stink bugs off of the tomato plant -- wear gloves if you want to avoid their trademark stench -- and crush the bugs or drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Alternatively, use a handheld vacuum to quickly suck the insects off of the affected plant. Remove the vacuum's dust bag, place it in a sealed plastic bag and toss it in your freezer for a couple days to kill the trapped stink bugs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Don't be alarmed if you discover curled-up leaves on your otherwise healthy-looking tomato plants. Leaf curl, also called leaf roll, usually does not affect the quantity or quality of the tomatoes, according to the University of Illinois Extension service. Causes of leaf curl can include a physiological condition, exposure to herbicides or a virus affecting the tomato plant. Gardeners can take steps to prevent leaf curl, but the measures depend the source of the problem.
Physiological Leaf Curl
Rainy weather combined with cool temperatures can cause tomato plant leaves to curl or roll up on themselves. The condition, known as physiological leaf curl, can also affect seedlings soon after you transplant them outdoors. The problem does not require treatment because it does not inhibit plant growth or harm the fruit, says Judy Sedbrook, Colorado master gardener with the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension. Another type of physiological leaf roll--termed "non-parasitic leaf roll"--occurs in response to over-pruning or lack of water. The leaf curl will usually disappear in a few days, once the plant recovers from pruning or its water supply stabilizes.
Herbicide-Caused Leaf Curl
Tomato plants exposed to herbicides can show signs of leaf curl, and in severe cases, the leaf surface becomes white and the leaf itself turns thick and brittle. The most common herbicidal cause of leaf curl comes from 2,4-D, which is often used to treat lawns or crops for weeds. To minimize tomato plants' exposure to herbicides, never spray your plants with same sprayer that you use on your lawn. Don't use treated grass clippings as mulch around tomato plants. Herbicidal leaf curl can result in a harder-than-normal or misshapen tomato fruit, but unless the exposure to the herbicide is prolonged and severe, most plants will recover, especially if you provide them with frequent watering.
Leaf Curl Virus
Sucking insects like the sweet potato whitefly and aphid transmit a disease known as the tomato yellow leaf curl virus. The condition usually affects tomatoes that grow indoors. Leaves that curl upward occur in the first stages of infection, then the leaves curl downward and become yellow. Since no cures exist for the virus, the best way to prevent yellow leaf curl virus is to control insect infestations and select healthy, insect-free transplants for fruit production.
Physiological Leaf Curl
Rainy weather combined with cool temperatures can cause tomato plant leaves to curl or roll up on themselves. The condition, known as physiological leaf curl, can also affect seedlings soon after you transplant them outdoors. The problem does not require treatment because it does not inhibit plant growth or harm the fruit, says Judy Sedbrook, Colorado master gardener with the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension. Another type of physiological leaf roll--termed "non-parasitic leaf roll"--occurs in response to over-pruning or lack of water. The leaf curl will usually disappear in a few days, once the plant recovers from pruning or its water supply stabilizes.
Herbicide-Caused Leaf Curl
Tomato plants exposed to herbicides can show signs of leaf curl, and in severe cases, the leaf surface becomes white and the leaf itself turns thick and brittle. The most common herbicidal cause of leaf curl comes from 2,4-D, which is often used to treat lawns or crops for weeds. To minimize tomato plants' exposure to herbicides, never spray your plants with same sprayer that you use on your lawn. Don't use treated grass clippings as mulch around tomato plants. Herbicidal leaf curl can result in a harder-than-normal or misshapen tomato fruit, but unless the exposure to the herbicide is prolonged and severe, most plants will recover, especially if you provide them with frequent watering.
Leaf Curl Virus
Sucking insects like the sweet potato whitefly and aphid transmit a disease known as the tomato yellow leaf curl virus. The condition usually affects tomatoes that grow indoors. Leaves that curl upward occur in the first stages of infection, then the leaves curl downward and become yellow. Since no cures exist for the virus, the best way to prevent yellow leaf curl virus is to control insect infestations and select healthy, insect-free transplants for fruit production.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) can resist many pest and disease problems, but plants weakened or stressed may fall prey to problems. The shrub grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also thrives as a potted plant in any climate. Soil or site conditions are common problems, although pests and fungus can also kill rosemary. It can be difficult or even impossible to save rosemary once it begins to die, but quick diagnosis and treatment sometimes prove successful.
Winter Kill
Winter freezes can kill a rosemary shrub, but it may not become obvious until after the temperature begins to warm in spring. The evergreen sprigs begin losing their color, become dry and brittle, and eventually turn completely brown or yellow. (ref 3) Minor freeze damage only kills a few branches, allowing you to save the plant, while major damage kills the roots and plant entirely. Cut back the damaged branches to the nearest healthy wood using pruning shears disinfected with isopropyl alcohol. The healthy roots and remaining living branches will usually survive and put on new growth through spring and summer. Prevent future stress by growing the rosemary in a pot and overwintering it indoors, or by covering it with a frost blanket when short hard freezes are expected.
Water Stress
Locations that easily become wet or waterlogged slowly kill rosemary plants. Rosemary can tolerate more moisture in summer, but wet winter soil quickly kills the plant either by suffocating the roots or by freezing solid. Rosemary prefers well-drained soil and moderate moisture conditions. Dig up and transplant the shrub to a well-drained, full sun garden bed, or transplant it into a pot with bottom drainage holes. Water rosemary about once a week when there is no rainfall and when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry, providing no more than 1 inch of water at each irrigation.
Fungal Disease
Fungal issues typically go hand-in-hand with wet soil. Root and crown rot, caused by the Phytophthora spp. fungus, cause stunted growth or branch death. The rosemary sprigs yellow and dry out, while the base of the stem and roots become soft, mushy and produce a foul odor. Moving the rosemary to a site with better drainage and refraining from watering until after recovery may allow it to live if the roots aren't badly damaged, but most shrubs won't recover from root rot. Powdery mildew fungus, which forms as a white powder on the rosemary needles, favors dry conditions and warm temperatures between 60 and 80 degree Fahrenheit. Providing the rosemary with full, all-day sunlight and spraying the foliage with water early in the day to rinse away spores can minimize mildew issues. For extreme infections, cut out the mildewed branches with disinfected shears so the remaining healthy branches can recover.
Leaf and Stem Pests
Various pests feed on rosemary plants, including spittle bugs, aphids and whiteflies. Rosemary usually recovers from pest damage unless the infestation is severe or if the plant is already weakened by cold or water stress. Pear-shaped aphids feed on the underside of the stems. Spittle bugs leave behind a white, foamy residue that resembles spittle. Treat both by rinsing them off the rosemary with a sharp spray of water, or drench the plant with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap at five-day intervals until the pests are gone. Water sprays and soap products can also help control whiteflies. Spray the plants several times a day with water to discourage the flies and their larvae. Yellow sticky traps or reflective mulch spread around the rosemary may also minimize whitefly problems.
Chemical Damage
Premature needle death, yellowing of the needle tips or a general burned appearance may indicate chemical damage from herbicides, pesticides or improper fertilization. Herbicide drift, which occurs when the wind carries the spray beyond its intended target, causes leaf dieback or kills the entire plant. Pruning out the affected branches may allow the plant to recover if the chemicals haven't reached the roots. Excessive use of fertilizers can lead to the buildup of fertilizer salts in the soil, especially in container-grown plants. Watering the rosemary deeply so the excess moisture drains freely from the bottom of the pot at least once monthly during the summer helps flush out any excess salt.
Nutritional Deficiencies
Fertilizer is seldom necessary for a rosemary shrub, especially those grown in garden beds where the trace nutrients in the soil provide sufficient fertilization. Potted plants or those grown in exceptionally poor soil may be suffering from a nutrient deficiency if the plant grows slowly or develops stunted, pale yellow needles. An application of a general purpose fertilizer in early spring should provide enough nutrients to help the plant recover. Follow package instructions or mix 1/2 teaspoon of a soluble 24-8-16 blend with 1 gallon of water, and water the rosemary with the solution. Avoid applying fertilizer directly to the foliage because it can damage the needles.
Winter Kill
Winter freezes can kill a rosemary shrub, but it may not become obvious until after the temperature begins to warm in spring. The evergreen sprigs begin losing their color, become dry and brittle, and eventually turn completely brown or yellow. (ref 3) Minor freeze damage only kills a few branches, allowing you to save the plant, while major damage kills the roots and plant entirely. Cut back the damaged branches to the nearest healthy wood using pruning shears disinfected with isopropyl alcohol. The healthy roots and remaining living branches will usually survive and put on new growth through spring and summer. Prevent future stress by growing the rosemary in a pot and overwintering it indoors, or by covering it with a frost blanket when short hard freezes are expected.
Water Stress
Locations that easily become wet or waterlogged slowly kill rosemary plants. Rosemary can tolerate more moisture in summer, but wet winter soil quickly kills the plant either by suffocating the roots or by freezing solid. Rosemary prefers well-drained soil and moderate moisture conditions. Dig up and transplant the shrub to a well-drained, full sun garden bed, or transplant it into a pot with bottom drainage holes. Water rosemary about once a week when there is no rainfall and when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry, providing no more than 1 inch of water at each irrigation.
Fungal Disease
Fungal issues typically go hand-in-hand with wet soil. Root and crown rot, caused by the Phytophthora spp. fungus, cause stunted growth or branch death. The rosemary sprigs yellow and dry out, while the base of the stem and roots become soft, mushy and produce a foul odor. Moving the rosemary to a site with better drainage and refraining from watering until after recovery may allow it to live if the roots aren't badly damaged, but most shrubs won't recover from root rot. Powdery mildew fungus, which forms as a white powder on the rosemary needles, favors dry conditions and warm temperatures between 60 and 80 degree Fahrenheit. Providing the rosemary with full, all-day sunlight and spraying the foliage with water early in the day to rinse away spores can minimize mildew issues. For extreme infections, cut out the mildewed branches with disinfected shears so the remaining healthy branches can recover.
Leaf and Stem Pests
Various pests feed on rosemary plants, including spittle bugs, aphids and whiteflies. Rosemary usually recovers from pest damage unless the infestation is severe or if the plant is already weakened by cold or water stress. Pear-shaped aphids feed on the underside of the stems. Spittle bugs leave behind a white, foamy residue that resembles spittle. Treat both by rinsing them off the rosemary with a sharp spray of water, or drench the plant with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap at five-day intervals until the pests are gone. Water sprays and soap products can also help control whiteflies. Spray the plants several times a day with water to discourage the flies and their larvae. Yellow sticky traps or reflective mulch spread around the rosemary may also minimize whitefly problems.
Chemical Damage
Premature needle death, yellowing of the needle tips or a general burned appearance may indicate chemical damage from herbicides, pesticides or improper fertilization. Herbicide drift, which occurs when the wind carries the spray beyond its intended target, causes leaf dieback or kills the entire plant. Pruning out the affected branches may allow the plant to recover if the chemicals haven't reached the roots. Excessive use of fertilizers can lead to the buildup of fertilizer salts in the soil, especially in container-grown plants. Watering the rosemary deeply so the excess moisture drains freely from the bottom of the pot at least once monthly during the summer helps flush out any excess salt.
Nutritional Deficiencies
Fertilizer is seldom necessary for a rosemary shrub, especially those grown in garden beds where the trace nutrients in the soil provide sufficient fertilization. Potted plants or those grown in exceptionally poor soil may be suffering from a nutrient deficiency if the plant grows slowly or develops stunted, pale yellow needles. An application of a general purpose fertilizer in early spring should provide enough nutrients to help the plant recover. Follow package instructions or mix 1/2 teaspoon of a soluble 24-8-16 blend with 1 gallon of water, and water the rosemary with the solution. Avoid applying fertilizer directly to the foliage because it can damage the needles.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Although some plants take well to division, or splitting, woody herbs such as rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis cvs.) are propagated best with the layering technique. When layering, simply allow new plants to spring up alongside the "mother" plant until they are sturdy enough for you to "cut their cords" and move them to new locations.
Step 1
Choose one or two outer stems from the main rosemary plant, ensuring the stems look healthy and are tall. Spring is the best time to start this process, when the stems are most flexible and have plenty of time to root. If you want to layer more than one stem, then choose stems on each side of the main plant, and ensure each stem has room to grow.
Step 2
Mix one handful of compost and one handful of bonemeal with the top 4 to 6 inches of soil on each side of the rosemary plant. Each amended area should be a rectangular patch about 6 inches wide and 12 inches long, extending outward from the base of your selected stems.
Step 3
Dig a narrow trench about 2 inches deep in the center of the 12-inch-long section of amended soil. You can also judge the length for the trench by the general height of the stem that will lay in it, minus about 2 inches of the stem's leafy end.
Step 4
Strip a selected rosemary stem of most of its needlelike leaves, keeping the leaves on about 2 inches of the stem's tip. Use a small, sharp knife to slice the underside of the stem gently in several places, and dust the underside with hormone rooting powder. Disinfect the knife before and after its use by either spraying it with a household disinfectant or soaking its blade for five minutes in a solution that is one part bleach to three parts water. Air-dry the disinfected knife or rinse it with clean water and dry it with a clean cloth.
Step 5
Bend the stem gently down so that it lays flat against the bottom of the shallow trench. Do not press the last 2 inches of the stem's tip into the soil. That leafy part will remain above-ground. Use a landscape peg or U-shaped flexible wire at the midpoint of the stem to ensure the underside of the stem remains in contact with the ground.
Step 6
Fill the rest of the trench with the amended soil so that most of the stem is buried but its leafy end sticks above the soil.
Step 7
Repeat the process with each stem you want to layer to create a new plant. If you have several mature rosemary plants that you want to propagate, then repeat the process for the layering technique with them.
Step 8
Water the soil of the buried stems on a regular basis until the stems form rootlets. Although rosemary plants usually don't do well in moist soil, the baby plants will.
Step 9
Check for rootlets after several weeks by gently digging around the buried stems. It can take several months for the rosemary layering technique literally to take root. So be patient.
Step 10
Separate the young, well-established plants from their mother rosemary plant by slicing off the young plants near the base of the mature plant.
Step 11
Replant each young rosemary plant in its own container that has bottom drainage holes and is filled with potting soil. Alternatively, plant the young rosemary plants in a sunny place in your garden. When setting the young plants into containers or a garden bed, plant them at the same soil depth at which they previously grew. That depth usually is marked by a definite soil line on a plant's stem.
Step 1
Choose one or two outer stems from the main rosemary plant, ensuring the stems look healthy and are tall. Spring is the best time to start this process, when the stems are most flexible and have plenty of time to root. If you want to layer more than one stem, then choose stems on each side of the main plant, and ensure each stem has room to grow.
Step 2
Mix one handful of compost and one handful of bonemeal with the top 4 to 6 inches of soil on each side of the rosemary plant. Each amended area should be a rectangular patch about 6 inches wide and 12 inches long, extending outward from the base of your selected stems.
Step 3
Dig a narrow trench about 2 inches deep in the center of the 12-inch-long section of amended soil. You can also judge the length for the trench by the general height of the stem that will lay in it, minus about 2 inches of the stem's leafy end.
Step 4
Strip a selected rosemary stem of most of its needlelike leaves, keeping the leaves on about 2 inches of the stem's tip. Use a small, sharp knife to slice the underside of the stem gently in several places, and dust the underside with hormone rooting powder. Disinfect the knife before and after its use by either spraying it with a household disinfectant or soaking its blade for five minutes in a solution that is one part bleach to three parts water. Air-dry the disinfected knife or rinse it with clean water and dry it with a clean cloth.
Step 5
Bend the stem gently down so that it lays flat against the bottom of the shallow trench. Do not press the last 2 inches of the stem's tip into the soil. That leafy part will remain above-ground. Use a landscape peg or U-shaped flexible wire at the midpoint of the stem to ensure the underside of the stem remains in contact with the ground.
Step 6
Fill the rest of the trench with the amended soil so that most of the stem is buried but its leafy end sticks above the soil.
Step 7
Repeat the process with each stem you want to layer to create a new plant. If you have several mature rosemary plants that you want to propagate, then repeat the process for the layering technique with them.
Step 8
Water the soil of the buried stems on a regular basis until the stems form rootlets. Although rosemary plants usually don't do well in moist soil, the baby plants will.
Step 9
Check for rootlets after several weeks by gently digging around the buried stems. It can take several months for the rosemary layering technique literally to take root. So be patient.
Step 10
Separate the young, well-established plants from their mother rosemary plant by slicing off the young plants near the base of the mature plant.
Step 11
Replant each young rosemary plant in its own container that has bottom drainage holes and is filled with potting soil. Alternatively, plant the young rosemary plants in a sunny place in your garden. When setting the young plants into containers or a garden bed, plant them at the same soil depth at which they previously grew. That depth usually is marked by a definite soil line on a plant's stem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Rosemary is an aromatic evergreen herb used in cooking and scented cosmetic products. If you are already growing rosemary, you can start several new plants from your mother plant. The easiest way to regrow rosemary is by pruning and rooting cuttings.
Step 1
Fill a small planter with soil or a mix of soil and sand or vermiculite. You can also plant several cuttings together in one large planter, rather than rooting single stems in individual planters.
Step 2
Cut a soft stem just below a leaf or pair of leaves with a sharp knife or cutting shears. Choose a cutting no less than 3 inches – but up to 8 inches – from the tip.
Step 3
Strip the leaves from the bottom of the stem so the portion of the stem that will be planted is free of leaves.
Step 4
Dip the end of the stem in hormone rooting powder, if desired. Rooting powder is available in gardening supply stores and fortifies cuttings, but it is not necessary when rooting rosemary.
Step 5
Push the cutting into the soil and water it. Cover the plant with a plastic bag and leave it in a warm, sunny spot for about three weeks. Check roots by gently inverting the planter into your hand to see the underside of the soil.
Step 1
Fill a small planter with soil or a mix of soil and sand or vermiculite. You can also plant several cuttings together in one large planter, rather than rooting single stems in individual planters.
Step 2
Cut a soft stem just below a leaf or pair of leaves with a sharp knife or cutting shears. Choose a cutting no less than 3 inches – but up to 8 inches – from the tip.
Step 3
Strip the leaves from the bottom of the stem so the portion of the stem that will be planted is free of leaves.
Step 4
Dip the end of the stem in hormone rooting powder, if desired. Rooting powder is available in gardening supply stores and fortifies cuttings, but it is not necessary when rooting rosemary.
Step 5
Push the cutting into the soil and water it. Cover the plant with a plastic bag and leave it in a warm, sunny spot for about three weeks. Check roots by gently inverting the planter into your hand to see the underside of the soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Rosemary plants are hardy and able to withstand many adverse conditions, including freezing weather and short periods of drought. It is possible to revive dried-out rosemary plants, depending on the overall condition of the plant.
Severity
Check the ends of the branches to determine the extent of damage. If the branches are thoroughly dried out, check the base of the trunk and roots. The rosemary plant needs to be replaced if the trunk or roots are dry and brittle.
Maintenance
If the plant is salvageable, carefully remove dried and dead leaves from it. Using a pair of sharp garden shears, trim the branches to remove all dried areas, without cutting into the live branches.
Conditions
Thoroughly water the rosemary plant and provide plenty of natural light. Water outdoor plants at their base until the soil is thoroughly moist. For container-grown rosemary, fill the container with fresh water and allow the soil to absorb the water. Repeat this several times, until the soil retains the moisture.
Severity
Check the ends of the branches to determine the extent of damage. If the branches are thoroughly dried out, check the base of the trunk and roots. The rosemary plant needs to be replaced if the trunk or roots are dry and brittle.
Maintenance
If the plant is salvageable, carefully remove dried and dead leaves from it. Using a pair of sharp garden shears, trim the branches to remove all dried areas, without cutting into the live branches.
Conditions
Thoroughly water the rosemary plant and provide plenty of natural light. Water outdoor plants at their base until the soil is thoroughly moist. For container-grown rosemary, fill the container with fresh water and allow the soil to absorb the water. Repeat this several times, until the soil retains the moisture.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Basil and tomatoes, both warm-weather plants that do well in containers, not only can be planted in the same pots, but should be; they are natural companions, having similar requirements for light, soil, temperature and water. Basil will also improve the growth and flavor of tomatoes, and may help to repel harmful pests. You can grow your basil and tomatoes in containers or hanging baskets. They will reward your efforts by being both attractive to look at and delicious to eat.
Planting and Care
Use a large container for your basil and tomatoes. It needs to be at least a foot deep; a container that is about the size of a 5-gallon bucket is ideal. Avoid clay pots, which dry out quickly. Attractive and inexpensive plastic pots are a better choice. Make sure that the plants will get enough light by placing the container in an area that receives eight hours of full sun a day. Provide proper drainage by making sure there are ample holes at the bottom of the container and placing a layer of small stones at the bottom. Use a high-quality commercial potting mix. You will need 2 to 3 lbs. of potting mixture for cherry tomatoes and a basil plant; if you are growing a larger variety of tomato with your basil, you will need 5 to 7 lbs. Protect plants by waiting until night temperatures stay reliably over 60 degrees Fahrenheit before starting your container gardening. If the temperature falls below 55 degrees at night after a series of warm spring days, the tomato can suffer blossom drop. Basil is also extremely intolerant of cold temperatures and can be killed by a mere touch of frost. Prevent root rot by poking your finger 1 to 2 inches into the soil and only watering if the soil feels dry. Another reason to avoid overwatering is that too much water can hurt the flavor of the basil. Once a month during the growing season, use a fertilizer high in phosphorus; a 5-10-10 formulation is optimal.
Basil Varieties
If you are a novice at growing basil, you may want to start with sweet basil. This is the easiest variety to grow, and one that will impart a particularly sweet and mellow taste to its companion tomatoes. For an attractive basil plant that you can use in Asian recipes, try a Thai basil such as Siam Queen. For classic Italian basil perfect for making pesto, plant Genovese basil, which grows particularly well in pots. The Sweet Dani variety of basil has a delicate lemon scent and flavor. The Purple Ruffles or Red Rubin varieties can be slightly bitter, but some people like the tart quality, and the leaves make a vivid and attractive garnish in salads.
Tomato Varieties
For delicious cherry tomatoes which thrive in containers plant the Tiny Tim cultivar, which produces fruit in 45 days. Cherry Gold, a yellow-gold version of the Tiny Tim, is also a good choice. The Red Robin, which will produce in 55 days, is a super-dwarf plant that doesn't exceed 6 inches tall. The Yellow Canary variety is similar to the Red Robin but for its yellow fruit, while the Patio Hybrid is a larger plant with relatively sizable, abundant fruit. Since these tomato plants are of the determinate variety—meaning their growth stops at a certain point—it is not necessary to prune them.
Planting and Care
Use a large container for your basil and tomatoes. It needs to be at least a foot deep; a container that is about the size of a 5-gallon bucket is ideal. Avoid clay pots, which dry out quickly. Attractive and inexpensive plastic pots are a better choice. Make sure that the plants will get enough light by placing the container in an area that receives eight hours of full sun a day. Provide proper drainage by making sure there are ample holes at the bottom of the container and placing a layer of small stones at the bottom. Use a high-quality commercial potting mix. You will need 2 to 3 lbs. of potting mixture for cherry tomatoes and a basil plant; if you are growing a larger variety of tomato with your basil, you will need 5 to 7 lbs. Protect plants by waiting until night temperatures stay reliably over 60 degrees Fahrenheit before starting your container gardening. If the temperature falls below 55 degrees at night after a series of warm spring days, the tomato can suffer blossom drop. Basil is also extremely intolerant of cold temperatures and can be killed by a mere touch of frost. Prevent root rot by poking your finger 1 to 2 inches into the soil and only watering if the soil feels dry. Another reason to avoid overwatering is that too much water can hurt the flavor of the basil. Once a month during the growing season, use a fertilizer high in phosphorus; a 5-10-10 formulation is optimal.
Basil Varieties
If you are a novice at growing basil, you may want to start with sweet basil. This is the easiest variety to grow, and one that will impart a particularly sweet and mellow taste to its companion tomatoes. For an attractive basil plant that you can use in Asian recipes, try a Thai basil such as Siam Queen. For classic Italian basil perfect for making pesto, plant Genovese basil, which grows particularly well in pots. The Sweet Dani variety of basil has a delicate lemon scent and flavor. The Purple Ruffles or Red Rubin varieties can be slightly bitter, but some people like the tart quality, and the leaves make a vivid and attractive garnish in salads.
Tomato Varieties
For delicious cherry tomatoes which thrive in containers plant the Tiny Tim cultivar, which produces fruit in 45 days. Cherry Gold, a yellow-gold version of the Tiny Tim, is also a good choice. The Red Robin, which will produce in 55 days, is a super-dwarf plant that doesn't exceed 6 inches tall. The Yellow Canary variety is similar to the Red Robin but for its yellow fruit, while the Patio Hybrid is a larger plant with relatively sizable, abundant fruit. Since these tomato plants are of the determinate variety—meaning their growth stops at a certain point—it is not necessary to prune them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) naturally grow into short, bushy plants or tall vines, depending on their type. Tomato varieties are classified as determinate, indeterminate, semi-determinate or dwarf indeterminate. Determinate plants, also called bush tomatoes, grow 2 to 3 feet tall, while indeterminate tomatoes are also called vining tomatoes and grow up to 6 feet tall, but can grow as short, bushy plants when their central stems are pruned. Semi-determinate, or semi-bush, varieties grow 3 to 5 feet tall, and dwarf indeterminate, or dwarf vining, plants grow to the same height as bush tomatoes.
Growing Room
Short, bushy tomatoes need deep, moist, fertile soil and plenty of room to grow healthily. Grow bush, vining and other tomato types in full-sun sites and organically rich soil, and space the plants according to the type. Space bush varieties 12 to 24 inches apart and vining varieties 24 to 36 inches apart. If you're growing large plantings of vining tomatoes, space them 24 to 48 inches apart in rows 4 to 5 feet apart. Alternatively space tomatoes according to the final growing dimensions on the seed packet or plant label. For example, space plants of a variety that grows 2 feet wide 2 feet apart.
Water and Fertilizer
For plentiful, disease-free tomatoes, water the plants regularly and apply fertilizer. Tomatoes need 1 inch of water or more per week in dry weather. Avoid wetting the leaves when watering to help prevent leaf diseases, and water deeply but infrequently when the soil surface is dry. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as garden compost, to help conserve soil moisture. When the tomato fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, apply 1/2 cup of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant and work it 1 inch into the soil or mulch surface, taking care to not disturb the plant roots. Apply the same amount of fertilizer when you pick the first fruits.
Pruning and Support
Most tomato varieties can grow as short, bushy plants with the right pruning and support. Bush and dwarf vining varieties don't need pruning because they naturally grow into short bushes, but the plants benefit from a supporting cage. Place a tomato cage over the plants after transplanting them into the soil or a pot. To grow vining and semi-bush tomatoes as short, bushy plants, prune the central stems when the plants reach the desired height. Wipe your pruning shear blades with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune the stems above the second set of leaves that lie beneath stem tips. Tomatoes often produce shoots, called suckers, where the side stems meet the central stem. Prune suckers in the same way when they reach the desired length. Staking is usually recommended for vining tomatoes, but this isn't needed when growing them as short, bushy plants.
Harvest Time
Harvest times for short, bushy tomatoes vary according to the variety. Tomatoes produce a crop about 65 days to 80 days after sowing. Plants that produce crops quickly are called early varieties, Mid-season varieties produce a crop in 65 to 80 days, and late-season varieties fruit in 80 days or more. Bush tomatoes are often grown for canning or freezing because they usually produce their crops within a six-week period, then they stop fruiting and die back. Vining, semi-bush and dwarf vining tomatoes produce crops throughout the growing season.
Growing Room
Short, bushy tomatoes need deep, moist, fertile soil and plenty of room to grow healthily. Grow bush, vining and other tomato types in full-sun sites and organically rich soil, and space the plants according to the type. Space bush varieties 12 to 24 inches apart and vining varieties 24 to 36 inches apart. If you're growing large plantings of vining tomatoes, space them 24 to 48 inches apart in rows 4 to 5 feet apart. Alternatively space tomatoes according to the final growing dimensions on the seed packet or plant label. For example, space plants of a variety that grows 2 feet wide 2 feet apart.
Water and Fertilizer
For plentiful, disease-free tomatoes, water the plants regularly and apply fertilizer. Tomatoes need 1 inch of water or more per week in dry weather. Avoid wetting the leaves when watering to help prevent leaf diseases, and water deeply but infrequently when the soil surface is dry. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as garden compost, to help conserve soil moisture. When the tomato fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, apply 1/2 cup of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant and work it 1 inch into the soil or mulch surface, taking care to not disturb the plant roots. Apply the same amount of fertilizer when you pick the first fruits.
Pruning and Support
Most tomato varieties can grow as short, bushy plants with the right pruning and support. Bush and dwarf vining varieties don't need pruning because they naturally grow into short bushes, but the plants benefit from a supporting cage. Place a tomato cage over the plants after transplanting them into the soil or a pot. To grow vining and semi-bush tomatoes as short, bushy plants, prune the central stems when the plants reach the desired height. Wipe your pruning shear blades with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune the stems above the second set of leaves that lie beneath stem tips. Tomatoes often produce shoots, called suckers, where the side stems meet the central stem. Prune suckers in the same way when they reach the desired length. Staking is usually recommended for vining tomatoes, but this isn't needed when growing them as short, bushy plants.
Harvest Time
Harvest times for short, bushy tomatoes vary according to the variety. Tomatoes produce a crop about 65 days to 80 days after sowing. Plants that produce crops quickly are called early varieties, Mid-season varieties produce a crop in 65 to 80 days, and late-season varieties fruit in 80 days or more. Bush tomatoes are often grown for canning or freezing because they usually produce their crops within a six-week period, then they stop fruiting and die back. Vining, semi-bush and dwarf vining tomatoes produce crops throughout the growing season.
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求助
Sookie
2017年11月17日
I found this mark on one of my aloe plants Its kinda soft so I dont know if it was hit or if a bug got in it Any advice on how to heal it?
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Sookie：@sunnyzou thank you. I replanted it today and I found the soil soaked. I think they overwatered it at the nursery.
sunnyzou：I think it will dry and scarred, it should not spread.
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月17日
Although easy to grow as an annual in the United States, the tomato plant (Lycopersicon esculentum) is, unfortunately, vulnerable to a wide variety of diseases. Choosing disease-resistant varieties, spacing plants adequately and keeping garden soil free of debris will help to prevent many common problems. Knowing how to spot symptoms of bacterial or fungal infection will make disease identification and control easier.
Early Blight
This fungal disease is caused by Alternaria solani and triggered by periods of heavy rain combined with increasing temperatures at midseason. Also known as foliar or stem disorder, it is characterized by brownish-black lesions surrounded by halos of yellowing leaf tissue, which together form a bull's-eye pattern. Signs of infection typically appear in older leaves lower on the stem first, followed by angry-looking dark spots near the stem end of the fruit. Address the disease by promptly removing infected leaves, and avoid overwatering container-grown plants or overhead irrigation in the greenhouse, which encourages disease spread. For severe infestations, apply a premixed copper fungicide spray to all parts of the plant every seven to 10 days and again after it rains. Ideally, there should be a 12-hour window of dry weather after each application.
Bacterial Wilt
The Ralstonia solanacearum bacteria invades small breaks in the roots and self-replicates in the cellular walls of the plant, displacing stored water with a white or yellowish slimy substance. The earliest sign of this disease is the wilting of a few lower leaves. As the bacteria spread, the entire plant will be affected and die, often quite suddenly with high temperatures and humidity. There are no chemical controls for this disease, so infected plants must be pulled and destroyed. The best remedy is crop rotation with plants less susceptible to bacterial wilt, such as common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and corn (Zea mays), for at least three years. Meanwhile, consider growing tomatoes in containers with sterilized potting soil or in a different location in raised beds to improve drainage.
Fusarium Diseases
Fusarium oxysporum is a tomato fungus that causes Fusarium wilt. Symptoms begin with yellowing and drooping of older leaves, sometimes on only one side of the plant. The same fungus is also responsible for Fusarium crown rot, in which leaves turn black and a "canker" appears at the stem base. Infected plants wilt and die because the fungus permeates vascular tissue, where it blocks the conduction of water.
Because there are no fungicides that treat these diseases and the fungus can persist in the soil for two or three years, rotation with a cover crop in the grass family or another vegetable is the only remedy for this garden space. Plants that are less vulnerable to Fusarium include corn, some varieties of peas (Pisum sativum) and romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa) cultivars. In terms of prevention, try to purchase certified disease-free or Fusarium-resistant tomato plants to start with. Also, increasing the pH of the soil to between 6.5 and 7.0 will deter development of these diseases.
Leaf Mold
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulva, produces yellow lesions on the upper side of older leaves lower to the ground. With high humidity, a grayish velvetlike coating may appear, which consists of fungal spores. Leaf mold may spread to stems, flowers and fruit, producing a black rot at the stem end of tomatoes. Prevention and control involves staking of plants to enhance air circulation and the use of premixed liquid copper fungicide spray. Apply fungicide to the entire plant at the first sign of leaf mold; reapply at seven- to 10-day intervals and after a heavy rain.
Special Considerations
The use of fungicides can be harmful to bees and other pollinating insects, although spraying at night minimizes impact. A time-honored alternative to treating tomato plant diseases is a mixture of 1 part skim milk to 9 parts water applied as a spray every two to three weeks during the growing season. Reconstituted powdered milk may be used instead, but avoid whole milk because the fat may clog the sprayer.
Early Blight
This fungal disease is caused by Alternaria solani and triggered by periods of heavy rain combined with increasing temperatures at midseason. Also known as foliar or stem disorder, it is characterized by brownish-black lesions surrounded by halos of yellowing leaf tissue, which together form a bull's-eye pattern. Signs of infection typically appear in older leaves lower on the stem first, followed by angry-looking dark spots near the stem end of the fruit. Address the disease by promptly removing infected leaves, and avoid overwatering container-grown plants or overhead irrigation in the greenhouse, which encourages disease spread. For severe infestations, apply a premixed copper fungicide spray to all parts of the plant every seven to 10 days and again after it rains. Ideally, there should be a 12-hour window of dry weather after each application.
Bacterial Wilt
The Ralstonia solanacearum bacteria invades small breaks in the roots and self-replicates in the cellular walls of the plant, displacing stored water with a white or yellowish slimy substance. The earliest sign of this disease is the wilting of a few lower leaves. As the bacteria spread, the entire plant will be affected and die, often quite suddenly with high temperatures and humidity. There are no chemical controls for this disease, so infected plants must be pulled and destroyed. The best remedy is crop rotation with plants less susceptible to bacterial wilt, such as common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and corn (Zea mays), for at least three years. Meanwhile, consider growing tomatoes in containers with sterilized potting soil or in a different location in raised beds to improve drainage.
Fusarium Diseases
Fusarium oxysporum is a tomato fungus that causes Fusarium wilt. Symptoms begin with yellowing and drooping of older leaves, sometimes on only one side of the plant. The same fungus is also responsible for Fusarium crown rot, in which leaves turn black and a "canker" appears at the stem base. Infected plants wilt and die because the fungus permeates vascular tissue, where it blocks the conduction of water.
Because there are no fungicides that treat these diseases and the fungus can persist in the soil for two or three years, rotation with a cover crop in the grass family or another vegetable is the only remedy for this garden space. Plants that are less vulnerable to Fusarium include corn, some varieties of peas (Pisum sativum) and romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa) cultivars. In terms of prevention, try to purchase certified disease-free or Fusarium-resistant tomato plants to start with. Also, increasing the pH of the soil to between 6.5 and 7.0 will deter development of these diseases.
Leaf Mold
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulva, produces yellow lesions on the upper side of older leaves lower to the ground. With high humidity, a grayish velvetlike coating may appear, which consists of fungal spores. Leaf mold may spread to stems, flowers and fruit, producing a black rot at the stem end of tomatoes. Prevention and control involves staking of plants to enhance air circulation and the use of premixed liquid copper fungicide spray. Apply fungicide to the entire plant at the first sign of leaf mold; reapply at seven- to 10-day intervals and after a heavy rain.
Special Considerations
The use of fungicides can be harmful to bees and other pollinating insects, although spraying at night minimizes impact. A time-honored alternative to treating tomato plant diseases is a mixture of 1 part skim milk to 9 parts water applied as a spray every two to three weeks during the growing season. Reconstituted powdered milk may be used instead, but avoid whole milk because the fat may clog the sprayer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月17日
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are garden annuals that produce the most fruit when temperatures are within a specific range. For Virginia gardeners, this means the ideal time to plant tomatoes is in a window in spring that takes advantage of the plants' temperature preferences.
Beat the Heat
To grow well and best produce fruit, tomatoes need warm weather, but temperatures that are too high have the opposite effect and hinder the plants' fruit production. When daytime temperatures are above 90 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures are above 70 F, plants may fail to set fruit.
Consequently, the ideal time to set tomato transplants in a Virginia garden is as early as possible so that the plants have time to produce an adequate crop before the hottest part of the summer, when high temperatures are likely to slow fruit production. However, tomato plants are frost sensitive, so they can't be set out before the last frost in the spring.
In Virginia, the range of typical planting dates for tomatoes begins at the date of the last expected frost and extends for approximately the next seven weeks, a schedule that has the harvest period beginning as early as mid-June in the warmest parts of the state.
Last Frost Dates
The Tidewater region of eastern Virginia has the earliest frost-free dates in the state, with an average date of the last spring frost falling between April 10 and April 21. The Piedmont region of central Virginia is next; here the average date of the last frost is between April 20 and April 30. The Mountain region in the west has the latest frost-free dates; in this region, the average date of the last frost comes between May 10 and May 15.
Planting Dates
Given these frost dates, the range of acceptable planting dates in the Tidewater region is between April 10 and May 30. In the Piedmont, the range lies between April 20 and June 9, and in the Mountain region, the range is between May 10 and the end of June.
Planting early within these ranges gives tomato plants the best chance of producing a good crop before the onset of midsummer heat, but it also exposes transplants to the danger of a late frost at the beginning of the season.
Beat the Heat
To grow well and best produce fruit, tomatoes need warm weather, but temperatures that are too high have the opposite effect and hinder the plants' fruit production. When daytime temperatures are above 90 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures are above 70 F, plants may fail to set fruit.
Consequently, the ideal time to set tomato transplants in a Virginia garden is as early as possible so that the plants have time to produce an adequate crop before the hottest part of the summer, when high temperatures are likely to slow fruit production. However, tomato plants are frost sensitive, so they can't be set out before the last frost in the spring.
In Virginia, the range of typical planting dates for tomatoes begins at the date of the last expected frost and extends for approximately the next seven weeks, a schedule that has the harvest period beginning as early as mid-June in the warmest parts of the state.
Last Frost Dates
The Tidewater region of eastern Virginia has the earliest frost-free dates in the state, with an average date of the last spring frost falling between April 10 and April 21. The Piedmont region of central Virginia is next; here the average date of the last frost is between April 20 and April 30. The Mountain region in the west has the latest frost-free dates; in this region, the average date of the last frost comes between May 10 and May 15.
Planting Dates
Given these frost dates, the range of acceptable planting dates in the Tidewater region is between April 10 and May 30. In the Piedmont, the range lies between April 20 and June 9, and in the Mountain region, the range is between May 10 and the end of June.
Planting early within these ranges gives tomato plants the best chance of producing a good crop before the onset of midsummer heat, but it also exposes transplants to the danger of a late frost at the beginning of the season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月17日
Tomatoes are thriving, vining plants when it's warm and sunny outside. In the spring, when it's still a bit cool, they require some protection. Spring is, however, the best time for planting tomatoes, as it gives the plants a long growing season for their fruit harvest.
Planting
University of Missouri Extension suggests setting tomatoes out in the home garden as early as possible in the spring, to give the plants time to grow and fruit before fall comes. The Extension suggests planting as soon as the last frost is gone, when soil warms enough for easy working.
Day
The Tomato Gardening Guru website advises that cool, cloudy days are best for transplanting tomatoes into the home garden. Gardeners should plant in the morning, to keep tomatoes from drying or suffering during the process.
Preparation
Any planting should start with adequate preparation, to keep the transplant process quick and easy. Tomatoes require a site that gets full sun all day and quick drainage. Gardeners should mix a combination of half quick-draining soil and half organic compost, with an addition of starter fertilizer, into the soil a day or two before the transplant.
Planting
University of Missouri Extension suggests setting tomatoes out in the home garden as early as possible in the spring, to give the plants time to grow and fruit before fall comes. The Extension suggests planting as soon as the last frost is gone, when soil warms enough for easy working.
Day
The Tomato Gardening Guru website advises that cool, cloudy days are best for transplanting tomatoes into the home garden. Gardeners should plant in the morning, to keep tomatoes from drying or suffering during the process.
Preparation
Any planting should start with adequate preparation, to keep the transplant process quick and easy. Tomatoes require a site that gets full sun all day and quick drainage. Gardeners should mix a combination of half quick-draining soil and half organic compost, with an addition of starter fertilizer, into the soil a day or two before the transplant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
Most homegrown tomato plants produce between 3 and 9 pounds of fruit in one season. Two or three plants are usually sufficient for a family of four for fresh eating. Plant two varieties, such as a cherry tomato for salads and a paste or slicing tomato.
Varieties
The yield of tomato plants depends in part on the variety. Beefmaster, a slicing tomato, produced almost 10 pounds of fruit in a Washington State University study, while Yellow Perfection, another slicing tomato, produced just under 4 pounds. Indeterminate tomatoes produce more fruits than determinate types generally, because they continue fruiting until the first frost. Determinate types produce one crop and then dwindle.
Growing Conditions
Hot weather and drought adversely affect tomato production. Tomatoes drop their blossoms, failing to produce fruit when temperatures remain above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, according to Purdue University's website. Drought, disease and poor soil also limit tomato growth. Plant disease-resistant varieties and provide good growing conditions for the most abundant yields.
Staking Methods
Indeterminate varieties grow on sprawling, robust vines. Gardeners may choose to prune and stake these plants or let them grow on the ground. Pruned and staked varieties produce fewer, but larger tomatoes, and are more prone to sun scald. Those grown on the ground produce smaller tomatoes in larger quantities. They have more problems with soil diseases. In general, pruning and staking is the preferred practice for producing high-quality tomatoes.
Varieties
The yield of tomato plants depends in part on the variety. Beefmaster, a slicing tomato, produced almost 10 pounds of fruit in a Washington State University study, while Yellow Perfection, another slicing tomato, produced just under 4 pounds. Indeterminate tomatoes produce more fruits than determinate types generally, because they continue fruiting until the first frost. Determinate types produce one crop and then dwindle.
Growing Conditions
Hot weather and drought adversely affect tomato production. Tomatoes drop their blossoms, failing to produce fruit when temperatures remain above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, according to Purdue University's website. Drought, disease and poor soil also limit tomato growth. Plant disease-resistant varieties and provide good growing conditions for the most abundant yields.
Staking Methods
Indeterminate varieties grow on sprawling, robust vines. Gardeners may choose to prune and stake these plants or let them grow on the ground. Pruned and staked varieties produce fewer, but larger tomatoes, and are more prone to sun scald. Those grown on the ground produce smaller tomatoes in larger quantities. They have more problems with soil diseases. In general, pruning and staking is the preferred practice for producing high-quality tomatoes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
Rats are a common pest outside homes and in gardens. They eat almost any food, including tomato fruit right off the plants. You can recognize the damage from rats by their tracks and droppings around the plants. To eliminate a rat infestation in your tomato garden, set up traps and lay down repellents that will keep the rats away.
Step 1
Remove any other food sources that may be tempting the rats to your tomatoes. This may include dog food bowls or a compost pile nearby.
Step 2
Pour three to five moth balls into a small cloth bag. Drive a stake into the ground next to your tomato plants and tie the bag to the top of the stake by the string closures. Moth balls are a natural rat repellent, but they dissolve in the rain so you will have to replace the balls after each rainfall. Be sure moth ball soaked rainwater cannot drain onto the tomatoes.
Step 3
Purchase fox urine pellets from a local hunting store and spread them on the ground around the tomatoes and around the perimeter of the garden, according to the instructions on the package. Replace the pellets after each heavy rainfall.
Step 4
Set out rat traps throughout the tomato garden and along the edges of the garden. For bait, smear peanut butter on the trigger. Check the traps daily. If a rat does trigger the trap, wear protective gloves and dispose of the body in a trash bag.
Step 1
Remove any other food sources that may be tempting the rats to your tomatoes. This may include dog food bowls or a compost pile nearby.
Step 2
Pour three to five moth balls into a small cloth bag. Drive a stake into the ground next to your tomato plants and tie the bag to the top of the stake by the string closures. Moth balls are a natural rat repellent, but they dissolve in the rain so you will have to replace the balls after each rainfall. Be sure moth ball soaked rainwater cannot drain onto the tomatoes.
Step 3
Purchase fox urine pellets from a local hunting store and spread them on the ground around the tomatoes and around the perimeter of the garden, according to the instructions on the package. Replace the pellets after each heavy rainfall.
Step 4
Set out rat traps throughout the tomato garden and along the edges of the garden. For bait, smear peanut butter on the trigger. Check the traps daily. If a rat does trigger the trap, wear protective gloves and dispose of the body in a trash bag.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
If you'd like to grow grape tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) but don't have space for a vegetable garden, don't be discouraged. Instead, grow a few plants in containers on a sunny porch or patio. It's relatively easy to enjoy a bountiful harvest from just a few potted plants, if you give them just a bit of special attention to keep the harvest coming.
Getting Started
A grape tomato is a small cherry tomato that's about 1 inch in diameter, the approximate size and shape of a grape. An especially prolific type of tomato, a single plant produces many dozens of fruits when given good growing conditions. Start seeds in trays or pots indoors about six weeks before your last frost date, or purchase seedlings from a nursery center when ready to plant. Either way, harden off seedlings by moving them outdoors for a few extra hours each day, planting them when nighttime temperatures stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
When ready, choose a pot that's at least 20 inches across and 24 inches deep, with one plant for each pot. The pot must have at least one large drainage hole and can be plastic, which tends to dry out slowly, or clay, a more quickly drying material.
Soil, Sun and Water
A potted grape tomato needs loose, well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. You can use a high-quality commercial mix, or make your own from equal parts potting soil, compost, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Avoid using garden soil because it likely harbors insect pests or their eggs. Plant one seedling in each pot, setting it deeply so that the soil level is just below the first set of leaves; this stimulates roots to grow from the buried stem, promoting a strong plant.
Keep the pot in full sun for at least six to eight hours of sun daily; if your area has hot summer afternoons, choose a spot that gets sun mostly in the morning. Give the plant regular watering, moistening the soil thoroughly whenever its top inch or two feels dry to your fingertip; aim for at least 1 inch of water each week, including rain.
Supporting and Feeding
Some grape tomatoes, such as "Mighty Sweet," are determinate, reaching a maximum height in midseason; this type becomes naturally bushy and may not need support in its pot. But other indeterminate varieties -- getting taller all season long -- need support in their pot. "Red Pearl" is an example of this type. Use a commercially available tomato cage or a sturdy stake to support this plant, but place the support in the pot before planting, to prevent damaging the plant's roots. Tie the plant to the support at intervals, using soft ties.
Feed the plant regularly to keep it setting fruit for the entire season. The first grape tomatoes are usually ready to harvest about 75 days after planting, so start feeding plants once weekly when you see the first small, green fruits -- usually sometime in July, depending on your climate. Use a balanced, 20-20-20 formula, diluting it at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but also check your product label for additional directions. Wet the soil before feeding to avoid burning roots.
Possible Problems
Grape tomatoes are susceptible to several fungal disorders; these are best prevented by keeping the pot in a well-ventilated area that's not crowded by other plants and by watering the plant at its base early in the day, helping keep foliage dry.
Several pests can also cause problems, including the green tomato hornworm caterpillar and the brown, striped potato beetle; handpick and destroy these. Aphids, tiny, yellowish, soft-bodied insects, and small whiteflies can also feed on and weaken the plant. Control these by spraying with insecticidal soap until the plant's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray as needed.
Getting Started
A grape tomato is a small cherry tomato that's about 1 inch in diameter, the approximate size and shape of a grape. An especially prolific type of tomato, a single plant produces many dozens of fruits when given good growing conditions. Start seeds in trays or pots indoors about six weeks before your last frost date, or purchase seedlings from a nursery center when ready to plant. Either way, harden off seedlings by moving them outdoors for a few extra hours each day, planting them when nighttime temperatures stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
When ready, choose a pot that's at least 20 inches across and 24 inches deep, with one plant for each pot. The pot must have at least one large drainage hole and can be plastic, which tends to dry out slowly, or clay, a more quickly drying material.
Soil, Sun and Water
A potted grape tomato needs loose, well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. You can use a high-quality commercial mix, or make your own from equal parts potting soil, compost, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Avoid using garden soil because it likely harbors insect pests or their eggs. Plant one seedling in each pot, setting it deeply so that the soil level is just below the first set of leaves; this stimulates roots to grow from the buried stem, promoting a strong plant.
Keep the pot in full sun for at least six to eight hours of sun daily; if your area has hot summer afternoons, choose a spot that gets sun mostly in the morning. Give the plant regular watering, moistening the soil thoroughly whenever its top inch or two feels dry to your fingertip; aim for at least 1 inch of water each week, including rain.
Supporting and Feeding
Some grape tomatoes, such as "Mighty Sweet," are determinate, reaching a maximum height in midseason; this type becomes naturally bushy and may not need support in its pot. But other indeterminate varieties -- getting taller all season long -- need support in their pot. "Red Pearl" is an example of this type. Use a commercially available tomato cage or a sturdy stake to support this plant, but place the support in the pot before planting, to prevent damaging the plant's roots. Tie the plant to the support at intervals, using soft ties.
Feed the plant regularly to keep it setting fruit for the entire season. The first grape tomatoes are usually ready to harvest about 75 days after planting, so start feeding plants once weekly when you see the first small, green fruits -- usually sometime in July, depending on your climate. Use a balanced, 20-20-20 formula, diluting it at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but also check your product label for additional directions. Wet the soil before feeding to avoid burning roots.
Possible Problems
Grape tomatoes are susceptible to several fungal disorders; these are best prevented by keeping the pot in a well-ventilated area that's not crowded by other plants and by watering the plant at its base early in the day, helping keep foliage dry.
Several pests can also cause problems, including the green tomato hornworm caterpillar and the brown, striped potato beetle; handpick and destroy these. Aphids, tiny, yellowish, soft-bodied insects, and small whiteflies can also feed on and weaken the plant. Control these by spraying with insecticidal soap until the plant's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray as needed.
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