文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月25日
Pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo) are annual vining plants that love hot, sunny days. There are over a hundred varieties, ranging from traditional orange to white, pink and almost red. Pumpkins may be round, flattened or pear-shaped; they range in size too, from "Small Sugar" pumpkins that average 6 to 8 inches in diameter and 5 to 8 pounds to the "Atlantic Giant" that grows to several feet across and over 1,000 pounds. In general, smaller pumpkins have a shorter growing season, and the largest pumpkins take longer to mature.
Ideal Location
Pumpkins grow best when direct seeded, and they prefer full sun and well drained soil with a pH of 7.0. Work decomposed manure or compost into the soil the fall before spring planting. Spread 2 inches of compost or manure over the soil and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Pumpkins are a vining plant and will sprawl almost anywhere you let them.
Choose Varieties
Pumpkins grow best when seeded directly into the garden. You can start seeds indoors, but pumpkins do not transplant well because their roots are sensitive to disturbance.
Depending on the variety, pumpkins require anywhere from 85 to 130 days to grow from seed. Choose a variety that will grow to full maturity within your growing season. In areas with short growing seasons, good choices may be the heirloom "Lakota," which matures at 5 to 7 pounds in 85 to 100 days, or "Sugar Pie," which matures at 7 pounds in 100 days. If you have a longer growing season, you could try growing "Howden," the commercial Halloween pumpkin, which grows to at least 20 pounds and requires 115 days.
Planting
Plant pumpkin seeds when the soil has warmed to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and all danger of frost has passed. Form hills by mounding the soil into soft mounds about 8 to 10 inches high and 1 foot in diameter. Space the hills 4 to 8 feet apart. Before planting, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of 4-8-5 or 6-10-10 fertilizer to each hill. Plant seeds 1 inch deep, placing four to six seeds in each hill. Water well. Pumpkin seeds germinate within four to six days.
When seedlings have two or three true leaves, remove all but the healthiest two or three plants from each hill. When thinning, also choose the seedlings you remove to leave evenly spaced plants. Reapply fertilizer three weeks after planting.
Growing Needs
Water slowly, allowing the water to reach a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Apply about 1 inch of water per week, depending on natural precipitation and drying winds. In hot weather, the leaves may appear wilted in the afternoon -- but if the plants are wilted early in the morning, they need more water.
Pumpkins produce male and female flowers on the same plant. Male blossoms usually appear first, and are attached to a straight stem. Female blossoms have a rounded base, the ovary, which looks like a small fruit. Insects, especially bees, naturally pollinate pumpkins by flying from flower to flower. If insects do not provide sufficient pollination, you may have to manually pollinate the female flowers. Late in the season, pluck new blossoms to direct the plant's energy to the ripening fruit. Pumpkin blossoms, like all squash blossoms, are edible.
Ripening and Harvest
Pumpkins tolerate light frost and can remain in the garden even after frost has killed the vines and foliage. They are ready to harvest when the rind is hard and they have developed a deep, uniform color -- usually orange, but possibly white, green or cream-colored depending on the variety you have grown. Harvest all pumpkins before temperatures drop lower than 25 degrees F.
To harvest, cut the pumpkins off the vine, leaving several inches of stem attached to each fruit. Handle them carefully and do not carry by the stem because it may break off, leaving an opening for disease or pests to enter. Cure pumpkins for 10 days, ideally at 80 to 85 degrees F and 80 percent relative humidity. After curing, store in a cool, dry place at 50 to 55 degrees F with good air circulation around the fruits. Properly stored, pumpkins will keep for at least a few months.
Ideal Location
Pumpkins grow best when direct seeded, and they prefer full sun and well drained soil with a pH of 7.0. Work decomposed manure or compost into the soil the fall before spring planting. Spread 2 inches of compost or manure over the soil and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Pumpkins are a vining plant and will sprawl almost anywhere you let them.
Choose Varieties
Pumpkins grow best when seeded directly into the garden. You can start seeds indoors, but pumpkins do not transplant well because their roots are sensitive to disturbance.
Depending on the variety, pumpkins require anywhere from 85 to 130 days to grow from seed. Choose a variety that will grow to full maturity within your growing season. In areas with short growing seasons, good choices may be the heirloom "Lakota," which matures at 5 to 7 pounds in 85 to 100 days, or "Sugar Pie," which matures at 7 pounds in 100 days. If you have a longer growing season, you could try growing "Howden," the commercial Halloween pumpkin, which grows to at least 20 pounds and requires 115 days.
Planting
Plant pumpkin seeds when the soil has warmed to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and all danger of frost has passed. Form hills by mounding the soil into soft mounds about 8 to 10 inches high and 1 foot in diameter. Space the hills 4 to 8 feet apart. Before planting, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of 4-8-5 or 6-10-10 fertilizer to each hill. Plant seeds 1 inch deep, placing four to six seeds in each hill. Water well. Pumpkin seeds germinate within four to six days.
When seedlings have two or three true leaves, remove all but the healthiest two or three plants from each hill. When thinning, also choose the seedlings you remove to leave evenly spaced plants. Reapply fertilizer three weeks after planting.
Growing Needs
Water slowly, allowing the water to reach a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Apply about 1 inch of water per week, depending on natural precipitation and drying winds. In hot weather, the leaves may appear wilted in the afternoon -- but if the plants are wilted early in the morning, they need more water.
Pumpkins produce male and female flowers on the same plant. Male blossoms usually appear first, and are attached to a straight stem. Female blossoms have a rounded base, the ovary, which looks like a small fruit. Insects, especially bees, naturally pollinate pumpkins by flying from flower to flower. If insects do not provide sufficient pollination, you may have to manually pollinate the female flowers. Late in the season, pluck new blossoms to direct the plant's energy to the ripening fruit. Pumpkin blossoms, like all squash blossoms, are edible.
Ripening and Harvest
Pumpkins tolerate light frost and can remain in the garden even after frost has killed the vines and foliage. They are ready to harvest when the rind is hard and they have developed a deep, uniform color -- usually orange, but possibly white, green or cream-colored depending on the variety you have grown. Harvest all pumpkins before temperatures drop lower than 25 degrees F.
To harvest, cut the pumpkins off the vine, leaving several inches of stem attached to each fruit. Handle them carefully and do not carry by the stem because it may break off, leaving an opening for disease or pests to enter. Cure pumpkins for 10 days, ideally at 80 to 85 degrees F and 80 percent relative humidity. After curing, store in a cool, dry place at 50 to 55 degrees F with good air circulation around the fruits. Properly stored, pumpkins will keep for at least a few months.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Companion planting is an organic method of gardening that uses plants to assist each other in growing. Plants all contain various natural substances that can either aid or hinder another plant's growing abilities. Companion planting is also an important part of integrated pest management by repelling harmful insects without losing any beneficial allies. Brussels sprouts is part of the cabbage family and suffers and benefits from the same factors as other members of the cabbage family. Several herbs and crops make useful companions to Brussels sprouts.
Improve Flavor
Chamomile improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts, but use it sparingly. Only grow one plant every 150 feet because this low-growing herb with daisy-like apple-scented flowers is a creeper and can spread quickly. Garlic is another companion herb that improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts. Additionally, garlic doubles as a pest repellent and has anti-fungal properties, too. Garlic plants are easy to grow and grow from the individual cloves on the bulb. Nearby sage plants also help to make Brussels sprouts more succulent and tasty. Sage also likes to grow next to rosemary, which is a pest deterrent for cabbage crops.
Deter Pests
Cabbage crops including Brussels sprouts are all susceptible to the same pests. Plant onions nearby to keep the hardest to control insect -- aphids -- in check. These small green, orange, yellow, red, black or white insects suck the plant's juices, causing yellow leaves. Nasturtiums also help deter aphids from Brussels sprout plants by acting as a trap that the aphids flock to. Nasturtiums also keep away various types of beetles like the flea beetle, which chew tiny holes in the Brussels sprouts leaves and roots. Another leaf-chewing pest is the cabbage worm, which is curbed by planting potatoes. Cabbage worms morph into cabbage white butterflies or moths, which also are a pest to Brussels sprout crops. Plant celery stalks to lure them away, as well as aromatic herbs like sage, hyssop, rosemary, peppermint and catnip.
Add Nutrients
Grow beets next to Brussels sprouts to help the soil's fertility. They contribute minerals to the soil like magnesium. Magnesium deficiency is a common problem when growing Brussels sprouts, and is identified by yellowish outer areas around the leaves. Beets are also a companion plant to onions, another of Brussels sprouts companions, and help deter common pests like aphids. Grow all three close to each other for maximum performance. Green manures are cover crops that are grown specifically to return nutrients back to the soil. Brussels sprouts are heavy feeders and often require a lot of nitrogen, which leguminous cover crops are big suppliers of. Alfalfa is one the highest nitrogen providers. Other useful cover crops for Brussels sprouts are clover, winter rye and vetch.
Non-Companions
Although both plants are cool season crops, never plant Brussels sprouts, or any other member of the cabbage family, near strawberry plants. Brussels sprout plant growth is inhibited when planted near strawberries. Keep Brussels sprout plants away from tomatoes and pole beans, too. Cabbage crops contain plant chemicals that inhibit tomato growth, as well as other nightshades like eggplants and peppers.
Improve Flavor
Chamomile improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts, but use it sparingly. Only grow one plant every 150 feet because this low-growing herb with daisy-like apple-scented flowers is a creeper and can spread quickly. Garlic is another companion herb that improves the flavor of Brussels sprouts. Additionally, garlic doubles as a pest repellent and has anti-fungal properties, too. Garlic plants are easy to grow and grow from the individual cloves on the bulb. Nearby sage plants also help to make Brussels sprouts more succulent and tasty. Sage also likes to grow next to rosemary, which is a pest deterrent for cabbage crops.
Deter Pests
Cabbage crops including Brussels sprouts are all susceptible to the same pests. Plant onions nearby to keep the hardest to control insect -- aphids -- in check. These small green, orange, yellow, red, black or white insects suck the plant's juices, causing yellow leaves. Nasturtiums also help deter aphids from Brussels sprout plants by acting as a trap that the aphids flock to. Nasturtiums also keep away various types of beetles like the flea beetle, which chew tiny holes in the Brussels sprouts leaves and roots. Another leaf-chewing pest is the cabbage worm, which is curbed by planting potatoes. Cabbage worms morph into cabbage white butterflies or moths, which also are a pest to Brussels sprout crops. Plant celery stalks to lure them away, as well as aromatic herbs like sage, hyssop, rosemary, peppermint and catnip.
Add Nutrients
Grow beets next to Brussels sprouts to help the soil's fertility. They contribute minerals to the soil like magnesium. Magnesium deficiency is a common problem when growing Brussels sprouts, and is identified by yellowish outer areas around the leaves. Beets are also a companion plant to onions, another of Brussels sprouts companions, and help deter common pests like aphids. Grow all three close to each other for maximum performance. Green manures are cover crops that are grown specifically to return nutrients back to the soil. Brussels sprouts are heavy feeders and often require a lot of nitrogen, which leguminous cover crops are big suppliers of. Alfalfa is one the highest nitrogen providers. Other useful cover crops for Brussels sprouts are clover, winter rye and vetch.
Non-Companions
Although both plants are cool season crops, never plant Brussels sprouts, or any other member of the cabbage family, near strawberry plants. Brussels sprout plant growth is inhibited when planted near strawberries. Keep Brussels sprout plants away from tomatoes and pole beans, too. Cabbage crops contain plant chemicals that inhibit tomato growth, as well as other nightshades like eggplants and peppers.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Peppers are related to tomatoes and tomatillos and have similar structures and form. The plants grow 18 to 24 inches high, depending on the variety, and have one strong central stem with horizontal branches that produce fruit and flowers. A strong, deep root system is critical for good fruit production.
Root Depth
Most gardeners buy nursery transplants or start seeds indoors. When the young pepper transplants are set out in early summer, their root system encompasses the entire pot, usually 3 to 4 inches. By the end of the season, the pepper's roots may extend 8 to 12 inches deep and at least as wide, but they remain fairly fine. Pepper's roots are deeper than the roots of lettuce, broccoli or spinach, but remain fairly close to the surface.
Growing Conditions
Good growing conditions develop strong, deep roots. Wait until at least two weeks after the last frost before planting peppers and lay black plastic over the soil to warm it. Plant peppers when daytime temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Planting peppers too early in the season results in stunted roots and leaves, and even deformed fruit or reduced yields. Space the peppers 18 inches apart so roots have room to grow. Apply a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula immediately after planting to establish strong roots. Water the plants as needed to keep the soil evenly moist.
Cultivation
Pull weeds by hand or cultivate them very shallowly with a hoe. The roots of pepper plants lie near the soil surface and are easily damaged by deep cultivation. Better yet, mulch pepper plants with thin layers of dried grass clippings or straw to reduce weed growth and prevent damage by weeding.
Disease
Peppers aren't particularly fussy about soil types, but the soil must be well-drained. In heavy, wet soils, peppers are prone to rotting roots and other diseases. Blossom-end rot may affect pepper fruits, causing the bottoms of the fruits to turn black. Prevent this disease by cultivating shallowly to avoid damaging the roots. Water the plants evenly and consistently, and add lime to the soil every two or three years if the soil is alkaline.
Root Depth
Most gardeners buy nursery transplants or start seeds indoors. When the young pepper transplants are set out in early summer, their root system encompasses the entire pot, usually 3 to 4 inches. By the end of the season, the pepper's roots may extend 8 to 12 inches deep and at least as wide, but they remain fairly fine. Pepper's roots are deeper than the roots of lettuce, broccoli or spinach, but remain fairly close to the surface.
Growing Conditions
Good growing conditions develop strong, deep roots. Wait until at least two weeks after the last frost before planting peppers and lay black plastic over the soil to warm it. Plant peppers when daytime temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Planting peppers too early in the season results in stunted roots and leaves, and even deformed fruit or reduced yields. Space the peppers 18 inches apart so roots have room to grow. Apply a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula immediately after planting to establish strong roots. Water the plants as needed to keep the soil evenly moist.
Cultivation
Pull weeds by hand or cultivate them very shallowly with a hoe. The roots of pepper plants lie near the soil surface and are easily damaged by deep cultivation. Better yet, mulch pepper plants with thin layers of dried grass clippings or straw to reduce weed growth and prevent damage by weeding.
Disease
Peppers aren't particularly fussy about soil types, but the soil must be well-drained. In heavy, wet soils, peppers are prone to rotting roots and other diseases. Blossom-end rot may affect pepper fruits, causing the bottoms of the fruits to turn black. Prevent this disease by cultivating shallowly to avoid damaging the roots. Water the plants evenly and consistently, and add lime to the soil every two or three years if the soil is alkaline.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Wilting in plants occurs when dehydration causes the cells in the leaves and stems to lose water. This water pressure, called turgor pressure, creates rigidity in leaves and stems. With loss of turgor pressure, the plant is unable to support itself. Leaves wilt and then become dry and die.
It is normal for cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) to wilt in the afternoon during hot weather, but wilting in the morning, dry foliage or dying leaves suggest a potential problem. Abnormal wilting in these annual vegetables can have several causes.
Growing Conditions
Before considering pests and diseases that cause cucumbers to wilt, assess the growing conditions of your plants to evaluate what might be causing your cucumbers to lose water.
Water
Cucumbers have a shallow root system and require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Plants can wilt and dry out during periods of low to no rainfall. Rather than watering lightly every day, cucumbers should receive a single watering to 6 inches deep every five to seven days. Using mulch also helps to keep the soil around your plants moist.
Somewhat counterintuitively, overwatering can cause similar symptoms to dehydration. Too much water damages the plant's roots and affects its intake of oxygen and nutrients. Cucumbers that receive too much water can wilt and die, just like plants that don't receive enough.
Soil
Cucumbers need well-draining soil. Heavy clay soil or soil low on organic matter that drains poorly can cause too much water to collect around the roots of plants, causing them to wilt and die.
Correcting a soil drainage problem midseason can be difficult. Adding compost or mulch around your plants can begin to provide the organic material needed to amend the soil in the long term.
For future plantings, add 3 to 4 inches of organic matter such as compost or rotted manure for every 6 inches of clay soil. For every 6 inches of sandy or loam soil, add 1 to 2 inches of organic matter. Mix these amendments into the soil before planting your cucumbers. Planting cucumbers on mounds also helps to drain excess moisture away from plant roots.
Temperature
During cool, wet weather -- air temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit or soil temperatures below 62 F -- cucumber plants may become yellow and wilted, and the edges of the leaves may turn brown. Floating row covers -- light fabric sheets that can cover an entire row of plants -- can raise temperatures several degrees around the plant and help cold-sensitive plants like cucumbers to withstand cold snaps. Once the cool spell passes, cucumbers must be uncovered to allow pollinating insects access to the flowers. Otherwise, your plants will not produce fruit.
Pests
Pest damage to the vines and stems of cucumber plants can prevent water from reaching the leaves and cause plants to wilt.
Squash Bugs
Squash bugs can affect all cucurbit plants, including cucumbers. Adults are elongated, shield-shaped insects about an inch long, but you will generally notice the immature nymphs or eggs on your plants first. Nymphs have pale green or bluish gray bodies with dark-colored legs, and they typically cluster together. Squash bugs generally lay their eggs on the undersides of the leaves in the fork where leaf veins meet. Eggs are copper-colored and are generally laid in orderly rows.
Squash bugs feed on the stems of cucumber plants, draining the plant of water and nutrients and causing the leaves to wilt. You may also observe yellow spots or leaves browning and dying on the plant. Mature plants can withstand mild infestations, but serious infestations or infestations on young plants can kill your cucumbers.
Begin monitoring your garden in early June for squash bug activity, as the eggs and nymphs are easier to spot and destroy than the adults. Insecticides are rarely required for squash bug infestations. Instead, inspect plants every few days and drown nymphs and adults in a jar of warm, soapy water. Crush any eggs that you find. You can trap squash bugs by placing boards in your garden overnight. Adult squash bugs will hide under the boards and can be collected and destroyed in the morning.
Remove weeds and dead plant material from the area around your cucumbers to eliminate hiding places for squash bugs. At the end of the season, remove old cucumber vines to minimize sites for squash bugs to overwinter.
Squash Vine Borers
Cucumbers can also be afflicted by the squash vine borer, although this pest generally prefers squash and pumpkins. Adult insects -- wasp-like moths distinguished by their gray wings and orange bodies -- lay their eggs at the base of cucumber vines. When the larvae emerge, they burrow into the vines to feed, disrupting the passage of water into the leaves, which can cause wilting. Leaves served by that vine will eventually die. You can diagnose a problem with squash vine borers by observing whether there are holes at the base of the vine; the hole is often surrounded by an orange or green sawdustlike material called frass.
Begin monitoring plants in late June for the presence of adult squash vine borers. You can place a yellow-colored pan filled with water near your plants; yellow attracts adult borers, and the moths will drown in the water. If you observe adults, cover your plants with floating row covers for two weeks.
Once borer larvae have burrowed into a vine, the pest cannot be controlled. Promptly remove any dead borer-infested vines from the garden, since after emerging from the vine, larvae will overwinter in the soil and could reinfest your plants the following year.
Diseases
Bacterial Wilt
Bacterial wilt is a disease spread to cucumbers by the cucumber beetle, a small yellow beetle with black stripes or spots. These beetles spread the disease from plant to plant as they feed. Leaves turn pale green and begin to wilt during the day, but they initially recover at night. Leaves then begin to turn yellow or brown around the edges, and wilting becomes more severe and begins to progress down the vine. Cucumbers wilt and die quickly after infection begins.
There is no treatment for bacterial wilt. Remove and bury infected plants as quickly as possible to prevent the disease from spreading to other plants.
Phytophthora Blight
Phytophthora blight can cause wilting leaves in cucumbers, although this disease tends to affect squash and pumpkin more often. The disease is caused by a fungus that grows best in warm weather following heavy rains or very wet conditions. In addition to wilting leaves, affected plants show yellow leaves and rotten spots on the leaves, vines and fruit. Phytophthora blight can spread quickly and kill an entire cucumber crop.
Fungicides are not very effective against Phytophthora blight, and the best strategies against the disease are preventative. Remove any infected vines and fruit immediately from your garden and bury them. Do not compost them or leave them near your garden, as spores can spread. Choose a well-draining site for growing cucumbers, control weeds in the area, do not work in the garden during wet conditions and water your cucumbers at the base of the plant rather than overhead.
Fusarium Wilt
Fusarium wilt, which is caused by a fungus, often appears first as wilting during the day followed by recovery at night. Growth may be stunted, leaves may yellow and show rotted lesions and a pink fungus may grow on vines. Fusarium wilt cannot be treated, and because the fungus can endure in the soil for years, future crops in the area may continue to be affected. In areas affected by Fusarium wilt, you should plant only wilt-resistant cultivars.
It is normal for cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) to wilt in the afternoon during hot weather, but wilting in the morning, dry foliage or dying leaves suggest a potential problem. Abnormal wilting in these annual vegetables can have several causes.
Growing Conditions
Before considering pests and diseases that cause cucumbers to wilt, assess the growing conditions of your plants to evaluate what might be causing your cucumbers to lose water.
Water
Cucumbers have a shallow root system and require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Plants can wilt and dry out during periods of low to no rainfall. Rather than watering lightly every day, cucumbers should receive a single watering to 6 inches deep every five to seven days. Using mulch also helps to keep the soil around your plants moist.
Somewhat counterintuitively, overwatering can cause similar symptoms to dehydration. Too much water damages the plant's roots and affects its intake of oxygen and nutrients. Cucumbers that receive too much water can wilt and die, just like plants that don't receive enough.
Soil
Cucumbers need well-draining soil. Heavy clay soil or soil low on organic matter that drains poorly can cause too much water to collect around the roots of plants, causing them to wilt and die.
Correcting a soil drainage problem midseason can be difficult. Adding compost or mulch around your plants can begin to provide the organic material needed to amend the soil in the long term.
For future plantings, add 3 to 4 inches of organic matter such as compost or rotted manure for every 6 inches of clay soil. For every 6 inches of sandy or loam soil, add 1 to 2 inches of organic matter. Mix these amendments into the soil before planting your cucumbers. Planting cucumbers on mounds also helps to drain excess moisture away from plant roots.
Temperature
During cool, wet weather -- air temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit or soil temperatures below 62 F -- cucumber plants may become yellow and wilted, and the edges of the leaves may turn brown. Floating row covers -- light fabric sheets that can cover an entire row of plants -- can raise temperatures several degrees around the plant and help cold-sensitive plants like cucumbers to withstand cold snaps. Once the cool spell passes, cucumbers must be uncovered to allow pollinating insects access to the flowers. Otherwise, your plants will not produce fruit.
Pests
Pest damage to the vines and stems of cucumber plants can prevent water from reaching the leaves and cause plants to wilt.
Squash Bugs
Squash bugs can affect all cucurbit plants, including cucumbers. Adults are elongated, shield-shaped insects about an inch long, but you will generally notice the immature nymphs or eggs on your plants first. Nymphs have pale green or bluish gray bodies with dark-colored legs, and they typically cluster together. Squash bugs generally lay their eggs on the undersides of the leaves in the fork where leaf veins meet. Eggs are copper-colored and are generally laid in orderly rows.
Squash bugs feed on the stems of cucumber plants, draining the plant of water and nutrients and causing the leaves to wilt. You may also observe yellow spots or leaves browning and dying on the plant. Mature plants can withstand mild infestations, but serious infestations or infestations on young plants can kill your cucumbers.
Begin monitoring your garden in early June for squash bug activity, as the eggs and nymphs are easier to spot and destroy than the adults. Insecticides are rarely required for squash bug infestations. Instead, inspect plants every few days and drown nymphs and adults in a jar of warm, soapy water. Crush any eggs that you find. You can trap squash bugs by placing boards in your garden overnight. Adult squash bugs will hide under the boards and can be collected and destroyed in the morning.
Remove weeds and dead plant material from the area around your cucumbers to eliminate hiding places for squash bugs. At the end of the season, remove old cucumber vines to minimize sites for squash bugs to overwinter.
Squash Vine Borers
Cucumbers can also be afflicted by the squash vine borer, although this pest generally prefers squash and pumpkins. Adult insects -- wasp-like moths distinguished by their gray wings and orange bodies -- lay their eggs at the base of cucumber vines. When the larvae emerge, they burrow into the vines to feed, disrupting the passage of water into the leaves, which can cause wilting. Leaves served by that vine will eventually die. You can diagnose a problem with squash vine borers by observing whether there are holes at the base of the vine; the hole is often surrounded by an orange or green sawdustlike material called frass.
Begin monitoring plants in late June for the presence of adult squash vine borers. You can place a yellow-colored pan filled with water near your plants; yellow attracts adult borers, and the moths will drown in the water. If you observe adults, cover your plants with floating row covers for two weeks.
Once borer larvae have burrowed into a vine, the pest cannot be controlled. Promptly remove any dead borer-infested vines from the garden, since after emerging from the vine, larvae will overwinter in the soil and could reinfest your plants the following year.
Diseases
Bacterial Wilt
Bacterial wilt is a disease spread to cucumbers by the cucumber beetle, a small yellow beetle with black stripes or spots. These beetles spread the disease from plant to plant as they feed. Leaves turn pale green and begin to wilt during the day, but they initially recover at night. Leaves then begin to turn yellow or brown around the edges, and wilting becomes more severe and begins to progress down the vine. Cucumbers wilt and die quickly after infection begins.
There is no treatment for bacterial wilt. Remove and bury infected plants as quickly as possible to prevent the disease from spreading to other plants.
Phytophthora Blight
Phytophthora blight can cause wilting leaves in cucumbers, although this disease tends to affect squash and pumpkin more often. The disease is caused by a fungus that grows best in warm weather following heavy rains or very wet conditions. In addition to wilting leaves, affected plants show yellow leaves and rotten spots on the leaves, vines and fruit. Phytophthora blight can spread quickly and kill an entire cucumber crop.
Fungicides are not very effective against Phytophthora blight, and the best strategies against the disease are preventative. Remove any infected vines and fruit immediately from your garden and bury them. Do not compost them or leave them near your garden, as spores can spread. Choose a well-draining site for growing cucumbers, control weeds in the area, do not work in the garden during wet conditions and water your cucumbers at the base of the plant rather than overhead.
Fusarium Wilt
Fusarium wilt, which is caused by a fungus, often appears first as wilting during the day followed by recovery at night. Growth may be stunted, leaves may yellow and show rotted lesions and a pink fungus may grow on vines. Fusarium wilt cannot be treated, and because the fungus can endure in the soil for years, future crops in the area may continue to be affected. In areas affected by Fusarium wilt, you should plant only wilt-resistant cultivars.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Identifying vegetable vines is fairly simple because only a few vegetable plants -- beans, peas, tomatoes and cucurbits -- have a vining habit. Most vegetables, such as lettuce, carrots, peppers, corn and broccoli, have an upright habit. Bush varieties of beans, tomatoes, melons and squash may not vine either, but have a compact, upright form. With the exception of peas, which thrive in cool, spring weather, all vining vegetable plants thrive in warm, sunny conditions and need 2 to 3 months of summer weather to mature.
Step 1
Examine the plants for a trellis or support system. Snap peas, English peas and pole beans must have support to thrive. These plants cling to wires or string via tendrils. Other plants, such as tomatoes or cucumbers, may also grow on supports, but they don't cling. Instead, gardeners secure them to support systems with twine, strips of fabric or plastic ties.
Step 2
Consider the height and width of the plant. Tomato plants usually grow at least 2 feet high without a cage or trellis. Caged tomatoes may grow 6 feet or higher and 3 feet wide. Melons, pumpkins and cucumbers usually remain fairly low to the ground, growing 2 feet high. However, the vines sprawl across the garden soil, stretching 6 feet or more.
Step 3
Evaluate the leaves. Peas have small, oval leaves, while pole beans produce heart-shaped, slightly fuzzy leaves. Many people find bean leaves irritating to the touch. Tomato leaves are lobed, crinkled and have a distinctive tomato smell. The leaves of cucumber and cantaloupe plants are 3 to 4 inches across, lobed and wrinkled. Pumpkin, squash and watermelon leaves resemble cucumber and cantaloupe leaves in shape, but are much larger -- 8 to 10 inches across.
Step 4
Inspect the plant for flowers and fruit. Peas, beans and tomatoes produce small, white or yellow flowers followed by small fruit, while cucumbers, melons, squash and pumpkins produce extravagant yellow flowers followed by large fruit.
Step 1
Examine the plants for a trellis or support system. Snap peas, English peas and pole beans must have support to thrive. These plants cling to wires or string via tendrils. Other plants, such as tomatoes or cucumbers, may also grow on supports, but they don't cling. Instead, gardeners secure them to support systems with twine, strips of fabric or plastic ties.
Step 2
Consider the height and width of the plant. Tomato plants usually grow at least 2 feet high without a cage or trellis. Caged tomatoes may grow 6 feet or higher and 3 feet wide. Melons, pumpkins and cucumbers usually remain fairly low to the ground, growing 2 feet high. However, the vines sprawl across the garden soil, stretching 6 feet or more.
Step 3
Evaluate the leaves. Peas have small, oval leaves, while pole beans produce heart-shaped, slightly fuzzy leaves. Many people find bean leaves irritating to the touch. Tomato leaves are lobed, crinkled and have a distinctive tomato smell. The leaves of cucumber and cantaloupe plants are 3 to 4 inches across, lobed and wrinkled. Pumpkin, squash and watermelon leaves resemble cucumber and cantaloupe leaves in shape, but are much larger -- 8 to 10 inches across.
Step 4
Inspect the plant for flowers and fruit. Peas, beans and tomatoes produce small, white or yellow flowers followed by small fruit, while cucumbers, melons, squash and pumpkins produce extravagant yellow flowers followed by large fruit.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月21日
Gardeners often place matchsticks in the soil beneath green peppers (Capsicum annuum Grossum Group) when setting them out to feed those plants' love of sulfur. Because peppers prefer a pH between 6.0 and 6.8, the acidifying chemical does help provide optimum conditions for them, so their use isn't just an old wives' tale. The number of matches recommended varies from two or three per plant to an entire book (20) per plant. If you have other uses for matches, you can add a small amount of garden sulfur to each planting hole instead.
Await Warmth
Peppers must have warm conditions to thrive, so don't set them out until after the last spring frost. Wait until the soil temperature is 65 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures have climbed above 55 degrees F., daytime ones above 70 degrees F.
Harden Seedlings
If you started pepper plants indoors, begin taking them outdoors for a few hours every day. Set them in the shade at first, and gradually extend their outdoor time while moving them into more sun.
Prepare Holes
Plant peppers in full sun, in fertile, well-drained soil. First, make a 6-inch-deep hole, partially filling that excavation with 2 inches of compost and about 1/2 cup of 5-10-10 organic fertilizer. Work those amendments into the bottom of the hole with a trowel.
Add Matchsticks
After removing the cover from a book of matches, place the matches atop the just-worked soil. If you prefer to use garden sulfur instead, add 1 teaspoon of it. To avoid shocking the seedling, cover the matches or sulfur with 1 to 2 additional inches of soil so the amendments don't come in direct contact with the plant until it is well-established. You then can set a pepper in the hole, loosening its roots if they have become matted together, and positioning the plant slightly deeper than it grew in its container.
After filling in the soil around its roots, pat the soil down and water it well. If you wish to set out more than one pepper, space the plants 18 inches apart and their rows 24 inches apart.
Water Plants
Keep the peppers' soil damp while they are becoming established, providing them with at least 1 inch of water per week, via rain or irrigation. To help maintain their soil's moisture and discourage weeds, mulch the plants with up to 2 inches of a light organic material such as straw or shredded dead leaves.
Await Warmth
Peppers must have warm conditions to thrive, so don't set them out until after the last spring frost. Wait until the soil temperature is 65 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures have climbed above 55 degrees F., daytime ones above 70 degrees F.
Harden Seedlings
If you started pepper plants indoors, begin taking them outdoors for a few hours every day. Set them in the shade at first, and gradually extend their outdoor time while moving them into more sun.
Prepare Holes
Plant peppers in full sun, in fertile, well-drained soil. First, make a 6-inch-deep hole, partially filling that excavation with 2 inches of compost and about 1/2 cup of 5-10-10 organic fertilizer. Work those amendments into the bottom of the hole with a trowel.
Add Matchsticks
After removing the cover from a book of matches, place the matches atop the just-worked soil. If you prefer to use garden sulfur instead, add 1 teaspoon of it. To avoid shocking the seedling, cover the matches or sulfur with 1 to 2 additional inches of soil so the amendments don't come in direct contact with the plant until it is well-established. You then can set a pepper in the hole, loosening its roots if they have become matted together, and positioning the plant slightly deeper than it grew in its container.
After filling in the soil around its roots, pat the soil down and water it well. If you wish to set out more than one pepper, space the plants 18 inches apart and their rows 24 inches apart.
Water Plants
Keep the peppers' soil damp while they are becoming established, providing them with at least 1 inch of water per week, via rain or irrigation. To help maintain their soil's moisture and discourage weeds, mulch the plants with up to 2 inches of a light organic material such as straw or shredded dead leaves.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月21日
White, dying leaves on zucchini are discouraging, but there is a solution. The white coating is caused by two common diseases that attack plants in the cucurbit family: powdery mildew and downy mildew. Both of these diseases can be present on a zucchini plant at the same time. Powdery mildew is a fungus, while downy mildew is more closely related to algae. These diseases have caused heavy economic losses in agricultural crops. In July of 2004, the remnants of a hurricane carried downy mildew spores up the eastern seaboard from North Carolina to New York, causing severe crop devastation.
Downy Mildew
Downy mildew spores are a purplish-gray and are only found on the undersides of the leaves, often first appearing as a water-soaked area. The symptoms of downy mildew only occur on the leaves; green leaf petioles often still hold the dead leaf tissue upright. Angular spots start out pale green and turn yellow, eventually causing tissue death. Several spots often join into a group.
Identification can be challenging, since spores are not always present. Downy mildew spores cannot survive extreme cold temperatures, and they are only found when conditions are favorable during the warmer months.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is easily recognizable by its white talcum-powder appearance. Powdery mildew is a host-specific fungus, meaning the pathogen that attacks one plant won't attack another. The fungus that attacks zucchini can also infect other members of the cucurbit family.
The white, powdery growth appears on both the bottom and top of leaves and on petioles and stems. It first strikes the crown leaves, shaded lower leaves and the undersides of leaves of older plants. Yellow spots appear, which quickly spread and cause leaf death.
Dissemination
Spores of powdery mildew are carried by water, wind and rain. They routinely travel long distances carried by storm systems that affect wide areas. In the home garden, the spores are often carried on clothing or spread by handling of infected plants. Overhead watering spreads spores by splashing them from one plant to another.
Prevention and Control
Planting resistant varieties of zucchini is always the first and best means of preventing these diseases.
Downy and powdery mildew thrive in warm, moist areas with poor air circulation. Plant zucchini plants far enough apart to allow air to circulate freely, and water plants in the early morning hours to allow the leaves to dry quickly. Drip irrigation is beneficial for controlling water-splashed spread of the spores.
Regular spraying every seven to ten days with broad spectrum fungicides before or at the first sign of infection provides some measure of control. Liquid copper and a solution of baking soda and water are organic alternatives. Always spray plants early in the morning and cover all areas of the plant with the fungicide solution. Fungi cannot thrive in an alkaline environment, so a baking soda solution sprayed regularly may prevent infection.
Downy Mildew
Downy mildew spores are a purplish-gray and are only found on the undersides of the leaves, often first appearing as a water-soaked area. The symptoms of downy mildew only occur on the leaves; green leaf petioles often still hold the dead leaf tissue upright. Angular spots start out pale green and turn yellow, eventually causing tissue death. Several spots often join into a group.
Identification can be challenging, since spores are not always present. Downy mildew spores cannot survive extreme cold temperatures, and they are only found when conditions are favorable during the warmer months.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is easily recognizable by its white talcum-powder appearance. Powdery mildew is a host-specific fungus, meaning the pathogen that attacks one plant won't attack another. The fungus that attacks zucchini can also infect other members of the cucurbit family.
The white, powdery growth appears on both the bottom and top of leaves and on petioles and stems. It first strikes the crown leaves, shaded lower leaves and the undersides of leaves of older plants. Yellow spots appear, which quickly spread and cause leaf death.
Dissemination
Spores of powdery mildew are carried by water, wind and rain. They routinely travel long distances carried by storm systems that affect wide areas. In the home garden, the spores are often carried on clothing or spread by handling of infected plants. Overhead watering spreads spores by splashing them from one plant to another.
Prevention and Control
Planting resistant varieties of zucchini is always the first and best means of preventing these diseases.
Downy and powdery mildew thrive in warm, moist areas with poor air circulation. Plant zucchini plants far enough apart to allow air to circulate freely, and water plants in the early morning hours to allow the leaves to dry quickly. Drip irrigation is beneficial for controlling water-splashed spread of the spores.
Regular spraying every seven to ten days with broad spectrum fungicides before or at the first sign of infection provides some measure of control. Liquid copper and a solution of baking soda and water are organic alternatives. Always spray plants early in the morning and cover all areas of the plant with the fungicide solution. Fungi cannot thrive in an alkaline environment, so a baking soda solution sprayed regularly may prevent infection.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月19日
Description: This wildflower is an annual or biennial about ½–2' tall. Small plants are unbranched or sparingly branched, while large plants form frequent lateral stems in the upper leaf axils. The stems are light green to reddish purple, 4-angular, and slightly winged; the central stem is erect, while the lateral stems curve upward. Pairs of opposite leaves occur along each stem, each pair rotating about 90° from the pair of leaves immediately below. The leaves are up to 2½" long and about half as much across, becoming slightly smaller as they ascend the stems. The leaves are ovate-cordate to ovate, sessile or slightly clasping at their bases, and smooth along their margins. Their upper surfaces are yellowish green, green, or tinted slightly purple; each leaf has 3-5 parallel veins. Both the stems and leaves are hairless.
The central stem and upper lateral stems (if present) terminate in clusters of 3-7 flowers on short pedicels. Frequently, there are additional clusters of 1-5 flowers from the axils of the upper leaves. All of these flowers are held stiffly erect. Each flower is about ¾" long and ¼" across; it has a long tubular corolla and a short green calyx with 5 slender teeth. The apex of each corolla has 5 triangular lobes that fold together to form a point; the corolla is closed or nearly so. There are no interconnecting fringes to join these lobes. The corollas are blue-violet, purple, or nearly white; they have fine purple veins along their sides. Inside each corolla, there are five stamens and a pistil. The erect lobes of the calyx are narrowly oblong-lanceolate in shape. Underneath the clustered flowers, the leaves are reduced to leafy bracts. The blooming period occur from late summer to mid-fall and lasts about 1-2 months. There is no noticeable floral scent. Each flower is replaced by a seed capsule that dividesDistribution Map into 2 parts to release the numerous tiny seeds. These seeds are distributed by wind and water. The root system consists of a taproot. This wildflower reproduces by reseeding itself; it does not spread vegetatively.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, moist to dry conditions, and a somewhat barren soil containing clay or rocky material. Competition from taller plants should be restricted. The size of individual plants and the abundance of their flowers can vary considerably depending on the availability of moisture and nutrients.
Range & Habitat: The native Stiff Gentian is occasional in the northern half of Illinois, while in the southern half of the state it is rare or absent. Populations of this species may be declining. Habitats include hill prairies, upland savannas, thinly wooded slopes, rocky meadows, banks of streams in wooded areas, calcareous seeps, and edges of cliffs. This species is usually found in high quality natural habitats, often where limestone is close to the ground surface.
Faunal Associations: So far, information about floral-faunal relationships for this species has not been encountered. The long tubular shape of the closed corollas suggests that long-tongued bees cross-pollinate the flowers.
Photographic Location: The edge of a partially shaded cliff at the Pine Hills Nature Preserve in west-central Indiana.
Comments: Like several other gentian species, the flowers of Stiff Gentian provide attractive blue-violet color during the fall; this is one of the last species to remain in bloom. Stiff Gentian in Illinois consists of var. occidentalis; the typical variety is found east of Ohio. Stiff Gentian is easily distinguished by its peculiar flowers, which are shorter (1" long or less) and more narrow (¼" across) than the flowers of other gentians with closed corollas. Sometimes, Stiff Gentian is still referred to as Gentiana quinquefolia, but this genus has been reserved for the perennial gentians, of which there are several species still extant in Illinois.
The central stem and upper lateral stems (if present) terminate in clusters of 3-7 flowers on short pedicels. Frequently, there are additional clusters of 1-5 flowers from the axils of the upper leaves. All of these flowers are held stiffly erect. Each flower is about ¾" long and ¼" across; it has a long tubular corolla and a short green calyx with 5 slender teeth. The apex of each corolla has 5 triangular lobes that fold together to form a point; the corolla is closed or nearly so. There are no interconnecting fringes to join these lobes. The corollas are blue-violet, purple, or nearly white; they have fine purple veins along their sides. Inside each corolla, there are five stamens and a pistil. The erect lobes of the calyx are narrowly oblong-lanceolate in shape. Underneath the clustered flowers, the leaves are reduced to leafy bracts. The blooming period occur from late summer to mid-fall and lasts about 1-2 months. There is no noticeable floral scent. Each flower is replaced by a seed capsule that dividesDistribution Map into 2 parts to release the numerous tiny seeds. These seeds are distributed by wind and water. The root system consists of a taproot. This wildflower reproduces by reseeding itself; it does not spread vegetatively.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, moist to dry conditions, and a somewhat barren soil containing clay or rocky material. Competition from taller plants should be restricted. The size of individual plants and the abundance of their flowers can vary considerably depending on the availability of moisture and nutrients.
Range & Habitat: The native Stiff Gentian is occasional in the northern half of Illinois, while in the southern half of the state it is rare or absent. Populations of this species may be declining. Habitats include hill prairies, upland savannas, thinly wooded slopes, rocky meadows, banks of streams in wooded areas, calcareous seeps, and edges of cliffs. This species is usually found in high quality natural habitats, often where limestone is close to the ground surface.
Faunal Associations: So far, information about floral-faunal relationships for this species has not been encountered. The long tubular shape of the closed corollas suggests that long-tongued bees cross-pollinate the flowers.
Photographic Location: The edge of a partially shaded cliff at the Pine Hills Nature Preserve in west-central Indiana.
Comments: Like several other gentian species, the flowers of Stiff Gentian provide attractive blue-violet color during the fall; this is one of the last species to remain in bloom. Stiff Gentian in Illinois consists of var. occidentalis; the typical variety is found east of Ohio. Stiff Gentian is easily distinguished by its peculiar flowers, which are shorter (1" long or less) and more narrow (¼" across) than the flowers of other gentians with closed corollas. Sometimes, Stiff Gentian is still referred to as Gentiana quinquefolia, but this genus has been reserved for the perennial gentians, of which there are several species still extant in Illinois.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Squash plants make up a large and diverse group of plants that fall under the genus Cucurbita. Common to all squashes is their vining growth, large, dark green leaves and yellow to orange flowers. They are divided into two main types, summer and winter squash, based on their time of harvest. The appearance and characteristics of squash fruit ranges widely, from small green zucchinis to giant orange pumpkins.
Foliage and Flowers
Squash leaves tend to be very large and exhibit three to five lobes. The plant's fruits, flowers, seeds and shoots are edible, along with the leaves. Flowers are large, trumpet-shaped, yellow to orange in color and have separate males and females. Male flowers produce pollen while female flowers mature into fruit. Whether you're growing winter or summer squash, the fruit provides an abundant and continuous harvest.
Summer Squash
Summer types often grow in a compact, bushing fashion with fruit that is usually smaller than winter squash. Harvest summer squash when fruit is still soft and immature, 50 to 65 days after planting. Zucchini is a green summer variety that is quickly ready for picking. Pick it when it reaches 4 to 5 inches in length, but pick varieties like Costata Romanesco when they reach 6 to 10 inches long. This variety produces many male blossoms, ideal for frying and eating. Yellow summer squash includes both straightneck and crookneck types.
Winter Squash
The key to growing winter squash is to allow plenty of room for each plant to spread. These plants can take over a garden with their fast-growing vines. Harvest when fruit is large and mature, usually in fall or winter, 80 to 120 days after sowing. Many types require curing to harden the shell, and are best if baked prior to consumption. The main varieties of winter squash include acorn, buttercup and butternut varieties. Acorn squash is just 2 pounds in weight with a slightly tapered, round acorn shape. Buttercup squash is similar to acorn squash, but larger and slighly flattened. Many of them, including the Sweet Mama cultivar, store well and easily last until February. Butternut squash is tan-colored, exhibits a sweet flavor and has a cylindrical shape with a bulb on the bottom end.
Growth Requirements
Squash plants are heavy feeders that grow quickly. They prefer plenty of heat during germination. For summer squash, ideal germinating soil temperature is 95 F, while winter squash germinates best at about 90 F. Direct sowing is best with these plants as they grow fast and do not transplant well. Provide rich, well-drained soil. Winter squash especially needs rich soil as it has a longer growing time and needs more nitrogen than its summertime counterpart. Harvest summer squash as soon as the fruit grows large enough, but do not allow it to over ripen or grow wrinkled in appearance. For winter squash, wait until stems dry and shrivel and skin is hard. Then cure the squash in the sun so the skin can dry completely.
Foliage and Flowers
Squash leaves tend to be very large and exhibit three to five lobes. The plant's fruits, flowers, seeds and shoots are edible, along with the leaves. Flowers are large, trumpet-shaped, yellow to orange in color and have separate males and females. Male flowers produce pollen while female flowers mature into fruit. Whether you're growing winter or summer squash, the fruit provides an abundant and continuous harvest.
Summer Squash
Summer types often grow in a compact, bushing fashion with fruit that is usually smaller than winter squash. Harvest summer squash when fruit is still soft and immature, 50 to 65 days after planting. Zucchini is a green summer variety that is quickly ready for picking. Pick it when it reaches 4 to 5 inches in length, but pick varieties like Costata Romanesco when they reach 6 to 10 inches long. This variety produces many male blossoms, ideal for frying and eating. Yellow summer squash includes both straightneck and crookneck types.
Winter Squash
The key to growing winter squash is to allow plenty of room for each plant to spread. These plants can take over a garden with their fast-growing vines. Harvest when fruit is large and mature, usually in fall or winter, 80 to 120 days after sowing. Many types require curing to harden the shell, and are best if baked prior to consumption. The main varieties of winter squash include acorn, buttercup and butternut varieties. Acorn squash is just 2 pounds in weight with a slightly tapered, round acorn shape. Buttercup squash is similar to acorn squash, but larger and slighly flattened. Many of them, including the Sweet Mama cultivar, store well and easily last until February. Butternut squash is tan-colored, exhibits a sweet flavor and has a cylindrical shape with a bulb on the bottom end.
Growth Requirements
Squash plants are heavy feeders that grow quickly. They prefer plenty of heat during germination. For summer squash, ideal germinating soil temperature is 95 F, while winter squash germinates best at about 90 F. Direct sowing is best with these plants as they grow fast and do not transplant well. Provide rich, well-drained soil. Winter squash especially needs rich soil as it has a longer growing time and needs more nitrogen than its summertime counterpart. Harvest summer squash as soon as the fruit grows large enough, but do not allow it to over ripen or grow wrinkled in appearance. For winter squash, wait until stems dry and shrivel and skin is hard. Then cure the squash in the sun so the skin can dry completely.
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Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Lack of garden space shouldn't stop you from growing a crop of Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea gemmifera). Simply pot them up in containers on a porch, patio or even an unheated, bright indoor area. Brussels sprouts are annual plants that take between 80 and 110 days to grow before harvest. Dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties, such as "Catskill" or "Long Island," work best for containers. Brussels sprouts grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10.
Selecting the Right Pot
Grow Brussels sprouts, one to a pot, in 12-inch-diameter containers or grow multiple plants in large planters, leaving 24 inches between plants. Only use planters with drainage holes in the bottom. Plastic, wood, metal and terra cotta all work well. If you use old, reclaimed wood such as window boxes or troughs as planters, make sure it's not made pressure-treated wood or painted with lead or other toxic paint.
Potting Soil, Compost and Water
Mix 2 parts standard potting soil with 1 part well seasoned compost to grow Brussels sprouts in pots. This compost-potting soil mix provides nutrients for the first part of the growing season.
Water the containers when the top of the soil starts to feel dry, adding enough to thoroughly soak the potting soil all the way through. When excess water starts to leak out the bottom, it indicates the soil is thoroughly damp.
Growing Season and Sun Needs
This cold-weather crop grows best when the air temperature is between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Grow container Brussels sprouts outdoors starting in late winter, four weeks before the last frost. Started in late summer, they grow well through the fall and early winter. In mild climates, grow Brussels sprouts outdoors in winter.
Grow Brussels sprouts in pots where they will get at least six hours of sun each day.
Mid-Season Fertilizer
Fertilize mid-season, when the plants stand about 12 inches tall. Select a water-soluble fertilizer for vegetables and herbs with high nitrogen content for strong leaf production. Nitrogen is the first number on the label. A general purpose vegetable fertilizer, for example a 24-8-16 formula, works well. Use 1/2 teaspoon mixed with 1 gallon of water for each plant. Pour the water over the soil, then add more water if needed to soak the soil all the way through.
Selecting the Right Pot
Grow Brussels sprouts, one to a pot, in 12-inch-diameter containers or grow multiple plants in large planters, leaving 24 inches between plants. Only use planters with drainage holes in the bottom. Plastic, wood, metal and terra cotta all work well. If you use old, reclaimed wood such as window boxes or troughs as planters, make sure it's not made pressure-treated wood or painted with lead or other toxic paint.
Potting Soil, Compost and Water
Mix 2 parts standard potting soil with 1 part well seasoned compost to grow Brussels sprouts in pots. This compost-potting soil mix provides nutrients for the first part of the growing season.
Water the containers when the top of the soil starts to feel dry, adding enough to thoroughly soak the potting soil all the way through. When excess water starts to leak out the bottom, it indicates the soil is thoroughly damp.
Growing Season and Sun Needs
This cold-weather crop grows best when the air temperature is between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Grow container Brussels sprouts outdoors starting in late winter, four weeks before the last frost. Started in late summer, they grow well through the fall and early winter. In mild climates, grow Brussels sprouts outdoors in winter.
Grow Brussels sprouts in pots where they will get at least six hours of sun each day.
Mid-Season Fertilizer
Fertilize mid-season, when the plants stand about 12 inches tall. Select a water-soluble fertilizer for vegetables and herbs with high nitrogen content for strong leaf production. Nitrogen is the first number on the label. A general purpose vegetable fertilizer, for example a 24-8-16 formula, works well. Use 1/2 teaspoon mixed with 1 gallon of water for each plant. Pour the water over the soil, then add more water if needed to soak the soil all the way through.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月07日
Description: This is a perennial herbaceous vine up to 10' long that often climbs over other plants, shrubs, and fences. The twining stems are light green to red, glabrous to slightly hairy, and terete; alternate leaves are sparsely to moderately distributed along these stems. The leaves are about 2½-5" long and 1-2" across; they are sagittate-triangular or hastate-triangular in shape, while their margins are smooth and slightly ciliate. The basal lobes of these leaves are rather angular and squared-off in shape, although sometimes they are more rounded. The sinuses of the leaves are strongly indented between the basal lobes and either flattened or rounded. The upper leaf surface is medium green and glabrous (or nearly so), while the lower leaf surface is light green and glabrous to finely hairy. The slender petioles are about one-half as long as the leaves. The large buds produce flowers with funnelform corollas that are 2-3" across and similarly long; they are slightly 5-lobed. These corollas are usually white, although sometimes they are pale pink with spreading white stripes. However, deep within their throats the corollas are yellow.
At the base of each flower, there are 5 light green sepals that are largely hidden by a pair of large bracts. These bracts are light to medium green (often with reddish margins), broadly ovate in shape, keeled, and about ½-1½" long. Within the throat of each corolla, there is a white style with a pair of stigmata and 5 stamens (the latter adhere to the corolla). Usually the flowers are produced individually from the axils of the leaves, although there exists one subspecies of Hedge Bindweed (ssp. silvatica) that produces flowers in pairs from the axils of the leaves. The slender peduncles and/or pedicels of these flowers are shorter than the leaves. The flowers open during the morning and usually close at around noon, although they may remain open longer on cloudy days. The blooming period occurs intermittently during the summer for about 1-3 months. However, individual flowers last only a single day. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by broadly ovoid seed capsules a little less than ½" (about 8-10 mm.) across. At maturity, these capsules split open to release their seeds (2-4 seeds per capsule). These seeds are dull brown to black, 3-angled (two flat sides & one rounded side), and rather irregular in shape; they are a little less than ¼" (about 4-5 mm.) long. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous, and it may extend into the ground up to 10'. Hedge Bindweed spreads by clonal offshoots from its rhizomes or by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: This is an adaptable vine, preferring full to partial sun and moist to mesic conditions. It tolerates poor soil, often flourishing in areas that are gravelly or sandy. Hedge Bindweed readily climbs a trellis, fences, and neighboring plants, while in open areas it sprawls haphazardly across the ground. The climbing ability is the result of the stems twining tightly about slender objects. This vine can spread aggressively and become a nuisance in some locations. It is known to produce allelopathic chemicals that inhibit the growth of other plants.
Range & Habitat: The native Hedge Bindweed is common in most areas of Illinois, especially in the central and northern sections of the state (see Distribution Map). This vine is considered a noxious weed in some states, although it is not listed as such in Illinois. In addition to its wide distribution in North America, Hedge Bindweed is also native to Eurasia. It is likely that some populations of this species within the state have been introduced from other areas of North America or Eurasia. Habitats include edges of moist to mesic prairies, railroad prairies, thickets, woodland borders, open floodplain areas along lakes and rivers, edges of cropland, abandoned fields, fence rows, roadsides, areas along railroads, poorly maintained hedges, and urban waste areas. Hedge Bindweed is more common in disturbed areas.
Faunal Associations: Long-tongued bees are the primary pollinators of the flowers, including bumblebees, little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), and such oligolectic bees as Melitoma taurea (Mallow Bee), Peponapis pruinosa pruinosa (Squash & Gourd Bee), and Cemolobus ipomoea (Morning Glory Bee). It is likely that day-flying Sphinx moths visit the flowers during the morning. These insects obtain primarily nectar from the flowers. Several species of tortoise beetles feed on the foliage of Hedge Bindweed and similar species in the Bindweed family, including Agroiconota bivittata (Striped Tortoise Beetle), Charidotella sexpunctata (Golden Tortoise Beetle), Chelymorpha cassidea (Argus Tortoise Beetle), Deloyala guttata (Mottled Tortoise Beetle), and Jonthonota nigripes (Black-legged Tortoise Beetle). Other insect feeders include Chaetocnema confinis (Sweet Potato Flea Beetle), Typophorus nigritus (Sweet Potato Leaf Beetle), larvae of Neolasioptera convolvuli (Bindweed Stem Gall Midge), larvae of Bedellia somnulentella (Morning Glory Leafminer Moth), and larvae of Emmelina monodactyla (Morning Glory Plume Moth). Mammalian herbivores tend to ignore this plant when other food sources are available as the foliage is toxic. To a limited extent, the Bobwhite Quail and Ring-Necked Pheasant eat the seeds.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken along a railroad in Urbana, Illinois, and at the Red Bison Railroad Prairie in Savoy, Illinois.
Comments: Many varieties and subspecies of Hedge Bindweed have been described that vary in regards to such characteristics as the shape of the basal lobes of their leaves, the relative sizes of their sepals and floral bracts, the relative size of their corollas, and whether 1 or 2 flowers are produced per leaf axil. These varieties and subspecies are not further discussed here, although see Mohlenbrock (2002) for a dichotomous key to those that occur in Illinois. The flowers of Hedge Bindweed are large and showy when they are fully open. They are just as attractive as many cultivated varieties of Ipomoea purpurea (Common Morning Glory). Hedge Bindweed can be readily distinguished from this latter species by the shape of its leaves, which are sagittate-triangular or hastate-triangular with angular to rounded basal lobes. In contrast, the leaves of Common Morning Glory and 2 native species, Ipomoea pandurata (Wild Sweet Potato) and Ipomoea lacunosa (Small White Morning Glory), are more cordate in shape. Another common species, Convolvulus arvensis (Field Bindweed), differs by having smaller sagittate leaves with narrow basal lobes, and its funnelform flowers are also smaller in size (less than 1½" across).
At the base of each flower, there are 5 light green sepals that are largely hidden by a pair of large bracts. These bracts are light to medium green (often with reddish margins), broadly ovate in shape, keeled, and about ½-1½" long. Within the throat of each corolla, there is a white style with a pair of stigmata and 5 stamens (the latter adhere to the corolla). Usually the flowers are produced individually from the axils of the leaves, although there exists one subspecies of Hedge Bindweed (ssp. silvatica) that produces flowers in pairs from the axils of the leaves. The slender peduncles and/or pedicels of these flowers are shorter than the leaves. The flowers open during the morning and usually close at around noon, although they may remain open longer on cloudy days. The blooming period occurs intermittently during the summer for about 1-3 months. However, individual flowers last only a single day. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by broadly ovoid seed capsules a little less than ½" (about 8-10 mm.) across. At maturity, these capsules split open to release their seeds (2-4 seeds per capsule). These seeds are dull brown to black, 3-angled (two flat sides & one rounded side), and rather irregular in shape; they are a little less than ¼" (about 4-5 mm.) long. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous, and it may extend into the ground up to 10'. Hedge Bindweed spreads by clonal offshoots from its rhizomes or by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: This is an adaptable vine, preferring full to partial sun and moist to mesic conditions. It tolerates poor soil, often flourishing in areas that are gravelly or sandy. Hedge Bindweed readily climbs a trellis, fences, and neighboring plants, while in open areas it sprawls haphazardly across the ground. The climbing ability is the result of the stems twining tightly about slender objects. This vine can spread aggressively and become a nuisance in some locations. It is known to produce allelopathic chemicals that inhibit the growth of other plants.
Range & Habitat: The native Hedge Bindweed is common in most areas of Illinois, especially in the central and northern sections of the state (see Distribution Map). This vine is considered a noxious weed in some states, although it is not listed as such in Illinois. In addition to its wide distribution in North America, Hedge Bindweed is also native to Eurasia. It is likely that some populations of this species within the state have been introduced from other areas of North America or Eurasia. Habitats include edges of moist to mesic prairies, railroad prairies, thickets, woodland borders, open floodplain areas along lakes and rivers, edges of cropland, abandoned fields, fence rows, roadsides, areas along railroads, poorly maintained hedges, and urban waste areas. Hedge Bindweed is more common in disturbed areas.
Faunal Associations: Long-tongued bees are the primary pollinators of the flowers, including bumblebees, little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), and such oligolectic bees as Melitoma taurea (Mallow Bee), Peponapis pruinosa pruinosa (Squash & Gourd Bee), and Cemolobus ipomoea (Morning Glory Bee). It is likely that day-flying Sphinx moths visit the flowers during the morning. These insects obtain primarily nectar from the flowers. Several species of tortoise beetles feed on the foliage of Hedge Bindweed and similar species in the Bindweed family, including Agroiconota bivittata (Striped Tortoise Beetle), Charidotella sexpunctata (Golden Tortoise Beetle), Chelymorpha cassidea (Argus Tortoise Beetle), Deloyala guttata (Mottled Tortoise Beetle), and Jonthonota nigripes (Black-legged Tortoise Beetle). Other insect feeders include Chaetocnema confinis (Sweet Potato Flea Beetle), Typophorus nigritus (Sweet Potato Leaf Beetle), larvae of Neolasioptera convolvuli (Bindweed Stem Gall Midge), larvae of Bedellia somnulentella (Morning Glory Leafminer Moth), and larvae of Emmelina monodactyla (Morning Glory Plume Moth). Mammalian herbivores tend to ignore this plant when other food sources are available as the foliage is toxic. To a limited extent, the Bobwhite Quail and Ring-Necked Pheasant eat the seeds.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken along a railroad in Urbana, Illinois, and at the Red Bison Railroad Prairie in Savoy, Illinois.
Comments: Many varieties and subspecies of Hedge Bindweed have been described that vary in regards to such characteristics as the shape of the basal lobes of their leaves, the relative sizes of their sepals and floral bracts, the relative size of their corollas, and whether 1 or 2 flowers are produced per leaf axil. These varieties and subspecies are not further discussed here, although see Mohlenbrock (2002) for a dichotomous key to those that occur in Illinois. The flowers of Hedge Bindweed are large and showy when they are fully open. They are just as attractive as many cultivated varieties of Ipomoea purpurea (Common Morning Glory). Hedge Bindweed can be readily distinguished from this latter species by the shape of its leaves, which are sagittate-triangular or hastate-triangular with angular to rounded basal lobes. In contrast, the leaves of Common Morning Glory and 2 native species, Ipomoea pandurata (Wild Sweet Potato) and Ipomoea lacunosa (Small White Morning Glory), are more cordate in shape. Another common species, Convolvulus arvensis (Field Bindweed), differs by having smaller sagittate leaves with narrow basal lobes, and its funnelform flowers are also smaller in size (less than 1½" across).
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月06日
Soybeans are a major crop in the United States and elsewhere in the world. Used in an increasing variety of products, soybeans will grow in many different climates, but like most plants, they do best within a certain range.
Climate
Soybeans are usually grown in cool, temperate regions like the midwestern United States and southern Canada, but tropical climates like Indonesia also produce soybeans. This crop can grow almost anywhere with a warm growing season, ample water, and sunlight.
Temperature
Soybeans are usually planted when the soil temperature is between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and a hard frost is unlikely. Soybeans can be damaged by subfreezing temperatures, but they are less tender than several other crops, such as corn. Soybeans also need a growing season with temperatures between 70 and 95 F.
Soil
Soybeans are highly adaptable and will grow in most soils, although they can have trouble in heavy clay. The best soil is loose, rich loam that is moist but well drained.
Climate
Soybeans are usually grown in cool, temperate regions like the midwestern United States and southern Canada, but tropical climates like Indonesia also produce soybeans. This crop can grow almost anywhere with a warm growing season, ample water, and sunlight.
Temperature
Soybeans are usually planted when the soil temperature is between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and a hard frost is unlikely. Soybeans can be damaged by subfreezing temperatures, but they are less tender than several other crops, such as corn. Soybeans also need a growing season with temperatures between 70 and 95 F.
Soil
Soybeans are highly adaptable and will grow in most soils, although they can have trouble in heavy clay. The best soil is loose, rich loam that is moist but well drained.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月06日
There are several reasons for growing a bean plant in a cup. This method is commonly used to demonstrate the growing process in classroom settings because the plants germinate and sprout quickly, while requiring very little care. Some gardeners use this method as a way to begin growing plants before outdoor growing conditions are favorable. Whatever the reason, there are a few guidelines to follow in order to produce a healthy bean plant.
Step 1
Obtain seeds for the type of bean plant you would like to grow from a local seed supplier. Dried beans from a grocery store can also be used, although these may not germinate properly because they have been processed to be eaten, rather than to be grown.
Step 2
Fill an 8-oz. Styrofoam cup to the top with soil. Make sure not to pack the soil down into the cup.
Step 3
Create a hole in the soil at the center of the cup by pressing one finger into the soil to a depth of 1 inch.
Step 4
Place the bean in the bottom of the hole. Fill in the hole with soil and lightly compress the soil so that it is no longer loose. Do not compress the soil too much, or the roots and other growing parts will be hindered as they try to grow through the soil.
Step 5
Water the seed gently by sprinkling enough water on the soil to moisten it. Beans grow best in soil that is moist, rather than wet.
Step 6
Place the cup in a location that will receive sunlight for at least six to eight hours a day and water as needed for the soil to stay moist.
Step 1
Obtain seeds for the type of bean plant you would like to grow from a local seed supplier. Dried beans from a grocery store can also be used, although these may not germinate properly because they have been processed to be eaten, rather than to be grown.
Step 2
Fill an 8-oz. Styrofoam cup to the top with soil. Make sure not to pack the soil down into the cup.
Step 3
Create a hole in the soil at the center of the cup by pressing one finger into the soil to a depth of 1 inch.
Step 4
Place the bean in the bottom of the hole. Fill in the hole with soil and lightly compress the soil so that it is no longer loose. Do not compress the soil too much, or the roots and other growing parts will be hindered as they try to grow through the soil.
Step 5
Water the seed gently by sprinkling enough water on the soil to moisten it. Beans grow best in soil that is moist, rather than wet.
Step 6
Place the cup in a location that will receive sunlight for at least six to eight hours a day and water as needed for the soil to stay moist.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月06日
Teaching children about plants is problematic, since seeds are usually buried in potting soil. The germination process is invisible. However, with a wet paper towel, a Ziploc bag, dried pinto beans and a bright, sunny window, you can provide a teaching moment even in the dead of winter. Pinto beans sprout and grow quickly. This project holds interest for several days. After the beans sprout, continue the teaching process by planting the beans inside or in the garden.
Step 1
Wet a paper towel. Squeeze most of the water out.
Step 2
Fold the paper towel to fit into the Ziploc bag. Place in the bag.
Step 3
Insert one or two pinto beans per bag on between the paper towel and the side of the bag. Do not seal the bag.
Step 4
Tap a nail into the wall on each side of a bright, sunny window. Stretch a piece of twine across the window, tying it to the nails.
Step 5
Hang the Ziploc bags on the twine with a clothespin with the bean facing the window.
Step 6
Monitor the Ziploc bag, making sure that the paper towel stays moist while the pinto bean sprouts. Pinto beans germinate quickly, sometimes overnight.
Step 7
Plant the bean sprout in a paper cup with potting soil or in the garden. Handle the root gently. It breaks easily. Water the sprout thoroughly after planting.
Step 1
Wet a paper towel. Squeeze most of the water out.
Step 2
Fold the paper towel to fit into the Ziploc bag. Place in the bag.
Step 3
Insert one or two pinto beans per bag on between the paper towel and the side of the bag. Do not seal the bag.
Step 4
Tap a nail into the wall on each side of a bright, sunny window. Stretch a piece of twine across the window, tying it to the nails.
Step 5
Hang the Ziploc bags on the twine with a clothespin with the bean facing the window.
Step 6
Monitor the Ziploc bag, making sure that the paper towel stays moist while the pinto bean sprouts. Pinto beans germinate quickly, sometimes overnight.
Step 7
Plant the bean sprout in a paper cup with potting soil or in the garden. Handle the root gently. It breaks easily. Water the sprout thoroughly after planting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月02日
Description: This perennial plant is up to 6" tall (rarely taller), consisting of a basal rosette of leaves and an erect stem bearing the inflorescence. Species in this genus are dioecious, with individual plants bearing either staminate (male) or pistallate (female) flowers. The basal leaves are up to 3½" long and 2" across; they are obovate in shape with long petioles and their margins are smooth. Mature basal leaves have 3-5 conspicuous veins. The upper surfaces of these leaves are light to medium green and glabrous to appressed-hairy, while their lower surfaces are whitish green and densely appressed-hairy. Sometimes basal leaves become more glabrous with age. During the spring, a central stem develops from the basal leaves. This central stem is densely covered with appressed white hairs; along its length, there are a few alternate leaves. These leaves clasp the stem and they are erect or ascending. Individual alternate leaves are up to 1½" long, narrowly lanceolate or elliptic in shape, and smooth to undulate; they tend to be more hairy than the basal leaves. At the apex of the central stem is a small cluster of about 3-6 staminate or pistillate flowerheads.
The flowerheads are about ¼–½" long and a little less across; they have phyllaries (floral bracts) at their bases that are light green and hairy, otherwise they consist of white disk florets. The staminate florets have brownish tubular anthers, while the pistillate florets are fluffy white from an abundance of styles. The blooming period occurs during mid- to late spring, lasting about 2-3 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent. While the flowers are capable of cross-pollination by means of either wind or insects, they are also capable of self-pollination. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by achenes that resemble small brown nutlets with white resinous dots, to which small tufts of white hair are attached. They are distributed by the wind. The flower-bearing part of the plant dies down during the summer, but the rosette of basal leaves persists. Occasionally, this plant forms stolons that can take root a short distance from the mother plant, forming clonal offsets. There is a strong tendency to form colonies, sometimes consisting of all staminate or pistillate plants.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade and average to dry conditions. This plant often flourishes in poor soil that contains sand, rocky material, or clay. Young growth during the spring is rarely bothered by disease, although the semi-evergreen basal leaves often become discolored and withered with age.
Range & Habitat: Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes has been found in most of the counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is both native and common. Habitats include hill prairies, openings in upland forests, wooded slopes, bluffs, limestone glades, areas along woodland paths, disturbed open woodlands, thickets, pastures, and abandoned fields. Both sandy and non-sandy areas can provide suitable habitat. This little plant favors areas with reduced ground competition that are partially sunny. Occasional wildfires are probably beneficial as this reduces competition from woody vines and shrubs.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are visited primarily by small bees and flies. Among the bees, this includes Andrenid bees, Halictid bees, and cuckoo bees (Nomada spp.), while fly visitors consist primarily of Syrphid flies and, to a lesser extent, flesh flies, blow flies, Muscid flies, and others. Insects that feed on Plantain-leaved Pussytoes and other Antennaria spp. (Pussytoes) include larvae of the fly Chromatomyia syngenesiae (Chrysanthemum Leafminer), gall-forming larvae of the flies Aspondylia antennariae (Everlasting Bud Midge) and Rhopalomyia antennariae (Pussytoes Bud Midge), larvae of Tebenna gnaphaliella (Everlasting Tebenna Moth), caterpillars of the butterfly Vanessa virginiensis (American Painted Lady), and the aphid Pleotrichophorus antennarius. To a limited extent, the Bobwhite Quail eats the seeds, while the White-Tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbit browse on the foliage.
Photographic Location: The photograph of the pistillate flowerheads was taken along a woodland path at Busey Woods in Urbana, Illinois, while the remaining photographs were taken at a hilly woodland in east-central Illinois.
Comments: Plantain-leaved Pussytoes can be readily distinguished from Antennaria neglecta (Field Pussytoes) by its basal leaves. The latter species has basal leaves that are single-veined and more narrow. Field Pussytoes is also more typical of open habitats, rather than woodland areas. Because Plantain-leaved Pussytoes is a rather variable species, it is often divided into different varieties or subspecies; some authorities even divide it into different species (Mohlenbrock, 2002). These distinctions take into consideration the length of phyllaries (floral bracts) in pistillate (female) plants, and the hairiness or shape of the basal leaves. No attempt has been made to make such fine distinctions here. Some authorities state that these plants are wind-pollinated, while others emphasize the role of insects in cross-pollination.
The flowerheads are about ¼–½" long and a little less across; they have phyllaries (floral bracts) at their bases that are light green and hairy, otherwise they consist of white disk florets. The staminate florets have brownish tubular anthers, while the pistillate florets are fluffy white from an abundance of styles. The blooming period occurs during mid- to late spring, lasting about 2-3 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent. While the flowers are capable of cross-pollination by means of either wind or insects, they are also capable of self-pollination. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by achenes that resemble small brown nutlets with white resinous dots, to which small tufts of white hair are attached. They are distributed by the wind. The flower-bearing part of the plant dies down during the summer, but the rosette of basal leaves persists. Occasionally, this plant forms stolons that can take root a short distance from the mother plant, forming clonal offsets. There is a strong tendency to form colonies, sometimes consisting of all staminate or pistillate plants.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade and average to dry conditions. This plant often flourishes in poor soil that contains sand, rocky material, or clay. Young growth during the spring is rarely bothered by disease, although the semi-evergreen basal leaves often become discolored and withered with age.
Range & Habitat: Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes has been found in most of the counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is both native and common. Habitats include hill prairies, openings in upland forests, wooded slopes, bluffs, limestone glades, areas along woodland paths, disturbed open woodlands, thickets, pastures, and abandoned fields. Both sandy and non-sandy areas can provide suitable habitat. This little plant favors areas with reduced ground competition that are partially sunny. Occasional wildfires are probably beneficial as this reduces competition from woody vines and shrubs.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are visited primarily by small bees and flies. Among the bees, this includes Andrenid bees, Halictid bees, and cuckoo bees (Nomada spp.), while fly visitors consist primarily of Syrphid flies and, to a lesser extent, flesh flies, blow flies, Muscid flies, and others. Insects that feed on Plantain-leaved Pussytoes and other Antennaria spp. (Pussytoes) include larvae of the fly Chromatomyia syngenesiae (Chrysanthemum Leafminer), gall-forming larvae of the flies Aspondylia antennariae (Everlasting Bud Midge) and Rhopalomyia antennariae (Pussytoes Bud Midge), larvae of Tebenna gnaphaliella (Everlasting Tebenna Moth), caterpillars of the butterfly Vanessa virginiensis (American Painted Lady), and the aphid Pleotrichophorus antennarius. To a limited extent, the Bobwhite Quail eats the seeds, while the White-Tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbit browse on the foliage.
Photographic Location: The photograph of the pistillate flowerheads was taken along a woodland path at Busey Woods in Urbana, Illinois, while the remaining photographs were taken at a hilly woodland in east-central Illinois.
Comments: Plantain-leaved Pussytoes can be readily distinguished from Antennaria neglecta (Field Pussytoes) by its basal leaves. The latter species has basal leaves that are single-veined and more narrow. Field Pussytoes is also more typical of open habitats, rather than woodland areas. Because Plantain-leaved Pussytoes is a rather variable species, it is often divided into different varieties or subspecies; some authorities even divide it into different species (Mohlenbrock, 2002). These distinctions take into consideration the length of phyllaries (floral bracts) in pistillate (female) plants, and the hairiness or shape of the basal leaves. No attempt has been made to make such fine distinctions here. Some authorities state that these plants are wind-pollinated, while others emphasize the role of insects in cross-pollination.
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