文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月09日
Description: This plant is a biennial. During the 1st year it consists of a small rosette of leaves, while during the 2nd year it becomes a little-branched plant about 1-3' tall. The leaves of 1st year plants are up to 2" long and across. They are cordate-orbicular with margins that are dentate or wavy and their upper surface has a reticulated network of veins. The petioles of these basal leaves are rather long and slender. The alternate leaves of 2nd year plants have a similar appearance, except that they are usually longer than wide, spanning up to 3" long and 2" across. The lower and middle leaves along the stems are usually cordate with either acute or blunt tips, while the upper leaves are often ovate. Both the stems and petioles of 2nd year plants are occasionally hairy, otherwise they are glabrous like the blades of the leaves. The foliage is often light green or yellowish green in appearance, otherwise it is medium green. The upper stems terminate in narrow racemes of white flowers. While in bloom, these flowers are bunched together toward the top of the raceme. However, as the flowers mature and develop seedpods, the raceme becomes more elongated and they become more separated.
Each flower is about ¼" across, consisting of 4 white petals, 4 light green sepals, a short cylindrical style, and several stamens with pale yellow anthers. The pedicels of flowers while they are in bloom are up to ¼" in length, although they become longer later. The blooming period occurs during late spring or early summer, lasting about 1-2 months. The flowers are replaced by narrow seedpods that are called "siliques." These seedpods are about 1½–2" long and narrowly cylindrical (although slightly 4-angled in circumference). Relative to erect stalk of the raceme, they are more or less ascending. As the seedpods become mature, the foliage dies down by the end of summer. Each mature seedpod contains a single row of black oblongoid seeds. The root system consists of a shallow taproot that is white and branches frequently. This plant often forms colonies by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun to medium shade, moist to mesic conditions, and a loamy fertile soil. Small rosettes of leaves are formed during the summer of the 1st year, which die down to the ground during the winter. However, during the spring of the following year, new leaves appear on stems that develop rapidly to produce flowers by early summer. This plant is well-adapted to deciduous woodlands and can reseed itself aggressively, forming dense stands that exclude other species. It has few problems with pests and disease organisms.
Range & Habitat: The non-native Garlic Mustard has been reported primarily in NE and central Illinois, where it is locally common. In other areas of the state, this plant is apparently less common or absent, however it is rapidly spreading (see Distribution Map). There is little doubt that it is more common than official records indicate. This plant was introduced into the United States from Eurasia. Habitats include moist to slightly dry deciduous woodlands, woodland borders, areas along woodland paths, semi-shaded areas in gardens and along fence rows, and partially shaded waste areas. This plant thrives in light shade or partial sun and it is intolerant of regular mowing. At the present time, Garlic Mustard is the worst herbaceous invader of deciduous woodlands in Illinois as it has the capacity to crowd out and destroy all of the native wildflowers that bloom during the spring. Effective measures of control include pulling the plants by their roots and spraying the foliage with herbicides. Cutting the flowering stalks from their stems is not an adequate method of control because Garlic Mustard is capable of regenerating new flowering stalks from lateral stems. Also, mature seeds can develop from any cut stalks of flowers and immature seedpods that are left on the ground.
Faunal Associations: The flowers attract various kinds small bees and flower flies. In sunnier areas, they may also attract an introduced butterfly, Pieris rapae (Cabbage White). There appears to be very few native insects that feed on the foliage and other parts of Garlic Mustard. Two flea beetles, Phyllotreta cruciferae and Phyllotreta punctulata, have been reported by Clark et al. (2004) to feed on this plant. These flea beetles also feed on other species in the Mustard family. At the present time, ecologists are examining insect pests of Garlic Mustard in Europe to determine if any of them are suitable for introduction in North America. So far, two species of leaf beetles appear to be the best candidates for biological control. Apparently the seeds are little-used by birds and mammalian herbivores rarely bother the foliage, possibly because they're repelled by its garlic-like scent. Considering how rapidly this plant has spread, it is thought that its seeds cling to the muddy feet of White-tailed Deer and the shoes of humans. This would explain its common occurrence along woodland paths.
Photographic Location: The edge of a deciduous woodland at Judge Webber Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Garlic Mustard was introduced into the United States as a potherb. The young leaves are edible to humans and quite nutritious – they can be added to salads or boiled in water and seasoned like spinach. The garlic-like aroma of the foliage is quite pronounced, which sets this species apart from many other members of the Mustard family (as well as plants from other families). Some Cardamine spp. (Bitter Cress species) are somewhat similar in appearance to Garlic Mustard, but their foliage lacks a garlic scent and their leaves are usually lobed. Some members of the Mint family have leaves that resemble those of Garlic Mustard, but they differ by having opposite leaves and 4-angled stems; they also lack the elongated seedpods that are typical of both Garlic Mustard and species of Bitter Cress.
Each flower is about ¼" across, consisting of 4 white petals, 4 light green sepals, a short cylindrical style, and several stamens with pale yellow anthers. The pedicels of flowers while they are in bloom are up to ¼" in length, although they become longer later. The blooming period occurs during late spring or early summer, lasting about 1-2 months. The flowers are replaced by narrow seedpods that are called "siliques." These seedpods are about 1½–2" long and narrowly cylindrical (although slightly 4-angled in circumference). Relative to erect stalk of the raceme, they are more or less ascending. As the seedpods become mature, the foliage dies down by the end of summer. Each mature seedpod contains a single row of black oblongoid seeds. The root system consists of a shallow taproot that is white and branches frequently. This plant often forms colonies by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun to medium shade, moist to mesic conditions, and a loamy fertile soil. Small rosettes of leaves are formed during the summer of the 1st year, which die down to the ground during the winter. However, during the spring of the following year, new leaves appear on stems that develop rapidly to produce flowers by early summer. This plant is well-adapted to deciduous woodlands and can reseed itself aggressively, forming dense stands that exclude other species. It has few problems with pests and disease organisms.
Range & Habitat: The non-native Garlic Mustard has been reported primarily in NE and central Illinois, where it is locally common. In other areas of the state, this plant is apparently less common or absent, however it is rapidly spreading (see Distribution Map). There is little doubt that it is more common than official records indicate. This plant was introduced into the United States from Eurasia. Habitats include moist to slightly dry deciduous woodlands, woodland borders, areas along woodland paths, semi-shaded areas in gardens and along fence rows, and partially shaded waste areas. This plant thrives in light shade or partial sun and it is intolerant of regular mowing. At the present time, Garlic Mustard is the worst herbaceous invader of deciduous woodlands in Illinois as it has the capacity to crowd out and destroy all of the native wildflowers that bloom during the spring. Effective measures of control include pulling the plants by their roots and spraying the foliage with herbicides. Cutting the flowering stalks from their stems is not an adequate method of control because Garlic Mustard is capable of regenerating new flowering stalks from lateral stems. Also, mature seeds can develop from any cut stalks of flowers and immature seedpods that are left on the ground.
Faunal Associations: The flowers attract various kinds small bees and flower flies. In sunnier areas, they may also attract an introduced butterfly, Pieris rapae (Cabbage White). There appears to be very few native insects that feed on the foliage and other parts of Garlic Mustard. Two flea beetles, Phyllotreta cruciferae and Phyllotreta punctulata, have been reported by Clark et al. (2004) to feed on this plant. These flea beetles also feed on other species in the Mustard family. At the present time, ecologists are examining insect pests of Garlic Mustard in Europe to determine if any of them are suitable for introduction in North America. So far, two species of leaf beetles appear to be the best candidates for biological control. Apparently the seeds are little-used by birds and mammalian herbivores rarely bother the foliage, possibly because they're repelled by its garlic-like scent. Considering how rapidly this plant has spread, it is thought that its seeds cling to the muddy feet of White-tailed Deer and the shoes of humans. This would explain its common occurrence along woodland paths.
Photographic Location: The edge of a deciduous woodland at Judge Webber Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Garlic Mustard was introduced into the United States as a potherb. The young leaves are edible to humans and quite nutritious – they can be added to salads or boiled in water and seasoned like spinach. The garlic-like aroma of the foliage is quite pronounced, which sets this species apart from many other members of the Mustard family (as well as plants from other families). Some Cardamine spp. (Bitter Cress species) are somewhat similar in appearance to Garlic Mustard, but their foliage lacks a garlic scent and their leaves are usually lobed. Some members of the Mint family have leaves that resemble those of Garlic Mustard, but they differ by having opposite leaves and 4-angled stems; they also lack the elongated seedpods that are typical of both Garlic Mustard and species of Bitter Cress.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月06日
The dreaded aphid is only one of several leaf-eating insects that can take over your pepper plants and destroy your vision of an abundant pepper harvest. Dealing with chewing insects is one of the most difficult aspects of raising pepper plants, however there are a number of safe methods for getting rid of these insects and keeping your pepper plants healthy and thriving. Maintenance is generally required with any type of insect removal to prevent the insects from returning. Make your own insect spray to controls aphids, using common household items.
Use finely chopped garlic.
Finely chop the garlic with a knife on a cutting board. Measure the vegetable oil, garlic and hot sauce, and mix in a small bowl. Allow to stand overnight.
Pour mixture in a spray bottle.
Strain the mixture the following morning, and add the water. Add the dishwashing soap and stir gently with a mixing spoon. Pour mixture into a spray bottle.
Concentrate on the underside of plant leaves.
Spray the leaves of the pepper plants thoroughly with the solution. Concentrate the spray on the underside of the leaves, where chewing insects often appear. Repeat weekly or as necessary. Keep a close watch on the plants to make sure insects do not return. Store any unused mixture in a sealed container in your refrigerator for later use.
Use finely chopped garlic.
Finely chop the garlic with a knife on a cutting board. Measure the vegetable oil, garlic and hot sauce, and mix in a small bowl. Allow to stand overnight.
Pour mixture in a spray bottle.
Strain the mixture the following morning, and add the water. Add the dishwashing soap and stir gently with a mixing spoon. Pour mixture into a spray bottle.
Concentrate on the underside of plant leaves.
Spray the leaves of the pepper plants thoroughly with the solution. Concentrate the spray on the underside of the leaves, where chewing insects often appear. Repeat weekly or as necessary. Keep a close watch on the plants to make sure insects do not return. Store any unused mixture in a sealed container in your refrigerator for later use.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月02日
Lima beans (Phaseolus lunatus) look like snap beans when they grow, and they develop as either vining or bush-like plants. Not tolerant of frost, lima bean seeds are sown in moist, fertile soil that is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Time Frame
A general time frame for germination of a lima bean is between six and 18 days. This is after the bean is sown in moist, well-drained soil at an depth of 1 inch in soil that is at least 65 degrees.
Factors
Temperature affects the rate of germination, as does the availability of moisture to soften the seed coat and cause the plant embryo to expand. Cool soil temperatures increase the time for germination, while warmer temperatures with ample moisture decrease the time of germination, perhaps to only three to six days. Dry soil never promotes germination.
Activity
Lima beans will germinate outside of soil if left in contact with damp paper towels and warm air temperatures. To study factors on germination, sow seeds in damp soil and various controlled/monitored temperatures as well as in a jar filled with damp towels or cotton balls. Note differences in germination rates as well as visually watching the seed transform through the glass jar walls.
Time Frame
A general time frame for germination of a lima bean is between six and 18 days. This is after the bean is sown in moist, well-drained soil at an depth of 1 inch in soil that is at least 65 degrees.
Factors
Temperature affects the rate of germination, as does the availability of moisture to soften the seed coat and cause the plant embryo to expand. Cool soil temperatures increase the time for germination, while warmer temperatures with ample moisture decrease the time of germination, perhaps to only three to six days. Dry soil never promotes germination.
Activity
Lima beans will germinate outside of soil if left in contact with damp paper towels and warm air temperatures. To study factors on germination, sow seeds in damp soil and various controlled/monitored temperatures as well as in a jar filled with damp towels or cotton balls. Note differences in germination rates as well as visually watching the seed transform through the glass jar walls.
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成长记
kensong
2018年07月02日
I now added "Tillandsia Xerographica (King of Air Plants)" in my "garden"
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
Growing broccoli in a greenhouse gives you the ability to enjoy fresh broccoli year round. Although a greenhouse offers an enclosed environment in which to grow a variety of seasonal plants, if you live in an area with wide temperature swings, you must still control the temperature inside the greenhouse. Cold nights, for instance, can frostbite plants in an unheated greenhouse, wasting your hard work.
Step 1
Install adequate central heating and cooling in the greenhouse, knowing that greenhouses get only 25 percent of their heat from the sun and require additional heating-and-cooling regulation in regions with moderate to extreme swings in temperature.
Step 2
Install two fans, one facing inward, serving as air input and one facing outward, serving as air output (exhaust). Fans help ventillate the air and introduce fresh amounts of carbon dioxide. For small greenhouses of 200 to 600 square feet, select fans capable of moving 5,000 cubic feet of air, and for larger greenhouses of 600 to 1,200 square feet, select fans capable of moving 12,000 cubic feet of air.
Step 3
Install wooden crates measuring a minimum of 3 feet wide per row and at least 2 feet deep.
Step 4
Spread fertilized soil into the crates to a depth of 23 inches to 24 inches. The soil settles a little, so you should fill the crates as full as possible.
Step 5
Plant the broccoli seeds 1 inch deep and about 15 inches to 24 inches apart in a layer of starter fertilizer that offers the broccoli seeds the required nutrients they need to encourage fast growth.
Step 6
Water the soil as the soil becomes dry to the touch, but when the broccoli sprouts, do not water the actual "heads"; water the stalks at their bases. Watering the brocolli heads encourages inedible blossoms.
Step 7
Allow the plant to grow 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 months.
Step 8
Harvest the plants by snipping them off beneath the head allowing for 5 inches to 6 inches of stalk.
Step 1
Install adequate central heating and cooling in the greenhouse, knowing that greenhouses get only 25 percent of their heat from the sun and require additional heating-and-cooling regulation in regions with moderate to extreme swings in temperature.
Step 2
Install two fans, one facing inward, serving as air input and one facing outward, serving as air output (exhaust). Fans help ventillate the air and introduce fresh amounts of carbon dioxide. For small greenhouses of 200 to 600 square feet, select fans capable of moving 5,000 cubic feet of air, and for larger greenhouses of 600 to 1,200 square feet, select fans capable of moving 12,000 cubic feet of air.
Step 3
Install wooden crates measuring a minimum of 3 feet wide per row and at least 2 feet deep.
Step 4
Spread fertilized soil into the crates to a depth of 23 inches to 24 inches. The soil settles a little, so you should fill the crates as full as possible.
Step 5
Plant the broccoli seeds 1 inch deep and about 15 inches to 24 inches apart in a layer of starter fertilizer that offers the broccoli seeds the required nutrients they need to encourage fast growth.
Step 6
Water the soil as the soil becomes dry to the touch, but when the broccoli sprouts, do not water the actual "heads"; water the stalks at their bases. Watering the brocolli heads encourages inedible blossoms.
Step 7
Allow the plant to grow 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 months.
Step 8
Harvest the plants by snipping them off beneath the head allowing for 5 inches to 6 inches of stalk.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月30日
The Aeonium genus includes about 35 succulent plants, mostly hailing from the Canary Islands. Members of the Crassulaceae family, these generally follow the growth recommendations for most succulents: lots of light, perfect drainage, and not too much water. Like other succulents, these are also highly prized for their beautiful foliage. On the most popular variety, the leaves are held on a nearly bare branch and grow in attractive rosettes that turn a deep, burgundy red in the summer time.
They are not especially common in cultivation, and if do see one, it's likely to be an immature plant. When they are young, it's easy to confuse Aeoniums with the closely related Echeverias, which are much more common in the nursery trade. It's easier, however, to tell adult plants with adequate light as the most popular species offer their spectacular leaf coloring.
Growing Conditions
Light: They like plenty of bright light, but dislike intense direct light, especially in the summer. These plants are not very tolerant of heat, so try to avoid locations where they are exposed to harmful direct heat radiation, whether from the sun or a light.
Water: When grown in containers, Aeonium like a regular supply of moisture during the growing season, which will typically be in the summer time. It's best to let the plants dry slightly between waterings, but because Aeonium have small roots, they are a bit less drought tolerant than other succulents and appreciate a steady supply of light water with good drainage.
Fertilizer: A typical cactus fertilizer can help them look their best, especially in older plants where the potting media is getting older and lost some of its nutrients.
Soil: A light, fast-draining potting soil is perfect. Cactus soils allow more latitude with watering because they hold less water, but regular potting soils can also be used.
Propagation
Many kinds of Aeonium do not clump as freely as more familiar succulents, which partially explains why they are less common in the trade (propagation is somewhat harder). However, they do root readily from leaf cuttings. Take a single leaf, allow it to dry out slightly, then place it in a seedling potting soil and keep barely moist and warm. New growth will eventually emergy. In some varieties, it's only possible to propagate from seed; this is more typical of the plants that do not branch but grow only single rosettes.
Repotting
These will not need frequent repotting. They are usually weakly rooted, so when you're repotting, be careful not to damage the roots or fragile leaves. Repot in the beginning of the growing season and keep in a warm, bright place until new growth begins to emerge.
Varieties
Collectors enjoy finding rarer Aeoniums, which grow in fantastic leaf forms and colors. Here are a few types of Aeonium that you might see:
A. arboreum. A fairly common species with mint green colored rosettes and branching growth habitate. This plant grows up to 5 feet and is easily propagated from leaf or branch cuttings. It has been extensively hybridized.
A. arboreum 'Atropurpureum'. This variety of the A. arboreum features the same green leaves that transition to purple or burgendy when exposed to sunlight. This is a very beautiful and relatively common Aeonium, compared to some of the more esoteric plants.
A arboreum 'Zwartkop.' Similar to the other two varieties, with the exception being that its leaves are dark purple and almost black. This plant is exceptionally beautiful when grown in masses.
Grower's Tips:
Aeonium are wonderful succulents that can really add visual interest to a succulent collection. They are relatively cold and heat sensitive, however, and do best in a faily temperate range. The same is true for watering: they dislike intense droughts or too much water. Ideally, Aeonium thrive in a Mediterranean climate, with mild winters and mild summers, and regular but not overwhelming water. Aeonium is vulnerable to mealybugs and aphids.
They are not especially common in cultivation, and if do see one, it's likely to be an immature plant. When they are young, it's easy to confuse Aeoniums with the closely related Echeverias, which are much more common in the nursery trade. It's easier, however, to tell adult plants with adequate light as the most popular species offer their spectacular leaf coloring.
Growing Conditions
Light: They like plenty of bright light, but dislike intense direct light, especially in the summer. These plants are not very tolerant of heat, so try to avoid locations where they are exposed to harmful direct heat radiation, whether from the sun or a light.
Water: When grown in containers, Aeonium like a regular supply of moisture during the growing season, which will typically be in the summer time. It's best to let the plants dry slightly between waterings, but because Aeonium have small roots, they are a bit less drought tolerant than other succulents and appreciate a steady supply of light water with good drainage.
Fertilizer: A typical cactus fertilizer can help them look their best, especially in older plants where the potting media is getting older and lost some of its nutrients.
Soil: A light, fast-draining potting soil is perfect. Cactus soils allow more latitude with watering because they hold less water, but regular potting soils can also be used.
Propagation
Many kinds of Aeonium do not clump as freely as more familiar succulents, which partially explains why they are less common in the trade (propagation is somewhat harder). However, they do root readily from leaf cuttings. Take a single leaf, allow it to dry out slightly, then place it in a seedling potting soil and keep barely moist and warm. New growth will eventually emergy. In some varieties, it's only possible to propagate from seed; this is more typical of the plants that do not branch but grow only single rosettes.
Repotting
These will not need frequent repotting. They are usually weakly rooted, so when you're repotting, be careful not to damage the roots or fragile leaves. Repot in the beginning of the growing season and keep in a warm, bright place until new growth begins to emerge.
Varieties
Collectors enjoy finding rarer Aeoniums, which grow in fantastic leaf forms and colors. Here are a few types of Aeonium that you might see:
A. arboreum. A fairly common species with mint green colored rosettes and branching growth habitate. This plant grows up to 5 feet and is easily propagated from leaf or branch cuttings. It has been extensively hybridized.
A. arboreum 'Atropurpureum'. This variety of the A. arboreum features the same green leaves that transition to purple or burgendy when exposed to sunlight. This is a very beautiful and relatively common Aeonium, compared to some of the more esoteric plants.
A arboreum 'Zwartkop.' Similar to the other two varieties, with the exception being that its leaves are dark purple and almost black. This plant is exceptionally beautiful when grown in masses.
Grower's Tips:
Aeonium are wonderful succulents that can really add visual interest to a succulent collection. They are relatively cold and heat sensitive, however, and do best in a faily temperate range. The same is true for watering: they dislike intense droughts or too much water. Ideally, Aeonium thrive in a Mediterranean climate, with mild winters and mild summers, and regular but not overwhelming water. Aeonium is vulnerable to mealybugs and aphids.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月30日
01.Grow These Succulents Almost Anywhere
It seems like pretty much everyone has developed a thirst for succulents—those plants with exotic shapes and diverse forms that are easy to maintain and create a bold statement wherever they grow. Even beginning gardeners are tempted to buy one or two out of curiosity; with some getting hooked after seeing how beautiful and manageable they are.
Many of the uninitiated take a look at a bed of succulents and refer to them as Hens and Chicks (Sempervivums). But there are hundreds—thousands—of others that aficionados collect, trade, share and discuss in person and online. Some people love them because they are so easy to propagate—just take a snip, let callous over, and plant in the ground or in a container.
In regions that have been affected by drought or practice water-wise landscaping, succulents are a gorgeous and simple addition to the garden. They also thrive on patios, decks, and balconies, and make smart choices for pool area landscaping.
Planting the Right Succulents
Things you should know before you get started:
Succulents require more water in summer. If you live in a region with little rainfall, plan to water in-ground succulents once a week. Those in containers will require water about three times per week.
Reduce irrigation in fall and winter so that succulents can withstand lower temperatures. Soggy soil and soft, new growth make succulents more susceptible to damage from freezes.
What grows best in your region? If you aren't sure, buy from local suppliers: nurseries, succulent plant groups, botanical gardens, etc. This will ensure that they will survive.
While all-succulent gardens are attractive, start out by working them into your existing landscape. Discover some of the best companion plants for succulents.
Learn more about these easy-to-care-for beauties, including how to pronounce them (so you can impress everyone). And remember: cactus are succulents, but succulents are not cactus. Species are presented alphabetically.
02.Aeonium
Pronunciation: a-OH-nee-um
Traits: These natives of North Africa's Canary Islands prefer more moisture than most succulents. Darker ones, like the purple/black Aeonium 'Zwartkop', can tolerate sun more than the lighter varieties. Many aeoniums are in the forms of flowers and rosettes, making them especially pretty in container gardens or even cut bouquets or arrangements.
Try These:
Black Aeonium: Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop'
A. artropurpureum
Kiwi Aeonium: A.decorum "Kiwi'
Canary Island aeonium: A. canariense
Sunburst Aeonium: A. 'Sunburst'
03.Agave
Pronunciation: a-GAH-vee
Traits: Native to the Americas, in-ground specimens grow more quickly and produce more blooms than their cousins confined to containers. Easily identifiable by their strong forms and large sizes—they make striking landscape plants. Leaves can be smooth, sword-shaped, toothed, or carried in rosettes. Blooms are infrequent but can be magnificent and huge--sometimes 14 feet or more. After flowering the larger agaves die, but offshoots or pups usually form before this occurs.
Try These:
Tuxedo Agave: Agave americana
Fox Tail Agave: A. attenuata; 'Kara's Stripes'
A. 'Blue Flame'
A. 'Cream Spike'
A. filifera
A. lopantha 'Quadricolor'
Parry's Agave or Artichoke Agave: A. parryi
Butterfly Agave: A. potatorum 'Kissho Kan' or 'Kichi-Jokan'
Queen Victoria Agave: A. victoriae-reginae
04.Aloe
Pronunciation: AL-oh
Traits: Native to Africa, the Mediterranean, Madagascar, aloes have fleshy, pointed leaves often arranged in rosettes that resemble agaves. Aloes, however, have showy flowers that bloom regularly, with the biggest display of flowers from February to September. Some blooms are tubular shaped and come in shades of orange, red, or yellow, while others are bicolor.
Aloes can be just a few inches high to as tall as trees, with leaves that are either smooth, bumpy, or prickly. It's those leaves that help funnel water down to the plant's crown, keeping it moist and succulent. Aloes prefer more water than agaves and other succulents. Their roots are fairly close to the surface, making them ideal next to houses or near pools.
Try These:
Aloe africana
A. arborescens
A. plicatilis
A. striata
A. vera
05.Crassula
Pronunciation: KRASS-oo-la
Traits: Native to South Africa, this large genus features small-to-medium succulents that have fleshy leaves arranged in a variety of patterns. Some crassula have branching stems, while others have are low-growing plants with dense foliage that are often good ground covers.
Try These:
Jade: Crassula ovata
Crassula argentea
C. falcata
C. cooperi
C. deltoidea
06.Dasylirion
Pronunciation: das-uh-LIH-ree-uhn
Traits: Although they more closely resemble a palm, this species surprises some people when they learn that they are actually succulents. Popular in xeriscape gardens, they have a southwestern look, and many have green, greyish, or blue-green strap-like leaves with small, sharp teeth that line the leaf edges. Small trunks can become woody, which makes them appear even less like succulents.
These striking succulents like some water, but will grow in desert and drought-tolerant gardens and make attractive container plants.
Try These:
Mexican Grass Tree: Dasylirion longissimum or D. quadrangulatum
Desert Spoon: D. wheelerii
Texas Sotol D. texanum
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月29日
1.Ice Plants
Ice plants are an interesting genus of succulents, with daisy-like flowers. There is a good amount of variety among ice plants; some are low growing spreaders, others become bushy subshrubs. There are over 150 species in this genus from southern Africa. Most are easy growers that bloom freely. The botanical name, Lampranthus, is from the Greek words "Lampros" (bright) and anthos (flower).
Leaves: The stocky leaves grow in pairs and can be cylindrical or almost triangular. They are short, very succulent and often blue-green.
Flowers: Daisy-like flowers with thin petals that only open in the sun. Different species bloom in vivid shades of yellow, orange, pink and red. The flowers form near the stem tips. Some varieties bloom over a long period, others only a few weeks.
Botanical Name
Lampranthus species and hybrids
Common Names
Ice Plant. You may see individual species labeled as Ice Plants and some have quantifiers like Trailing Ice Plant. It can be confusing. If you are looking for a specific plant, you would be wise to have the botanical name.
Cold Hardiness
Hardiness will vary with the species and variety, but most are only perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 - 10. Some species can tolerate a light frost, but despite their name, prolonged periods of cold, damp conditions will cause them to rot. Gardeners in colder areas can grow them as annuals or houseplants.
Sun Exposure
All varieties of ice plant grow and bloom best in full sun.
Mature Plant Size
The size will vary among the species, but most of the commonly grown ice plant varieties remain 2 ft. (60 cm) tall or lower, with a spreading habit.
Bloom Time
Many ice plants put on their best show in spring, with sporadic repeat blooms throughout the season, however, a few, like Lampranthus spectabilis, bloom all summer.
Suggested Varieties of Ice Plant
Lampranthus aurantiacus - Spring blooming, upright plant with bright orange petals around a yellow center. H 2 ft. (60 cm)
Lampranthus coccineus / Redflush Ice Plant - Bright red flowers throughout the season. Somewhat frost tolerant. H 2 ft. (60 cm)
Lampranthus haworthii - Blue-green leaves held up like a candelabra are covered with pink or purple flowers in the spring. Repeat blooms sporadically. H 2 ft. (60 cm)
Lampranthus spectabilis /Trailing Ice Plant- Long blooming in white or purple-pink. Low growing and spreading. H 2 ft. (60 cm)
Design Suggestions Using Ice Plant
Where the plants are hardy, they make a nice ground cover. Ice plants thrive in poor soil and make a wonderful alpine or rock garden plant or tucked in a stone wall. Their spreading habit means they quickly fill a container and spill over, so they are equally nice in hanging baskets and free-standing containers.
2.Growing and Caring for Ice Plants
Ice Plant Growing Tips
Soil: A neutral soil pH is fine, but it is more important to provide sandy, well-draining soil. Plants will rot if left in wet or damp soil for prolonged periods of time.
Planting: Ice Plants can be grown from either seed or cuttings. Seeds need warm temperatures (55 F.) to germinate. Taking cuttings is the fastest method. Make cuttings while the plant is actively growing, from spring to early fall. Cut shoots about 3 - 6 inches long and remove all but the top set of leaves.
Succulent cuttings should be allowed to dry slightly and callus. Leave them out in the air for several hours or overnight. Then root in sandy soil, in containers. Keep the soil evenly moist, until the cutting root. You can tell they have rooted by gently tugging on them. If they offer resistance, they have rooted and can be potted up.
Caring for Ice Plants
Established plants are extremely drought tolerant, however, they do prefer regular weekly watering during the summer. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant.
Flowering is more abundant if container grown plants are fed a balanced fertilizer, according to label directions. In-ground plants should be fed if the soil is poor or if blooming is sparse.
Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring.
Pests & Problems of Ice Plants
Weather is the biggest problem when growing Ice Plants. Few diseases have been reported, but mealy bug and scale can occasionally infest.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月29日
Sedum plants come in a wide variety of heights, colors, and forms. Showy Stonecrop, the taller plants in the genus Sedum, are popular garden plants that are extremely easy to grow. Although lovely, sedums are often taken for granted in the garden, partly because they don’t bloom until the fall, but also because they require so little care from the gardener. The thick leaves of these succulent plants are able to withstand both drought and rainy weather.
The flower buds form early and remain attractive well in winter. If the deer didn’t eat them, Sedum would be a perfect plant.
Growth Habit and Leaves: Border Stonecrops are a small section of the hundreds of species of Sedum. These taller growing Sedums have thick stems, fleshy leaves and tight flower heads that start out looking similar to heads of broccoli. Most are sturdy enough to stand upright on their own, with a few varieties that have a nice trailing quality, suitable for containers.
Flowers: Tall sedum flowers tend to come in shades of pink and mauve, that start out pale and deepen as they mature. The flower heads are attractive from bud through to their dried stage and are usually left standing tall throughout winter. The stems are even strong enough to hold a few inches of snow, capping the flower tops.
Botanical Name
Sedum
Common Names
Showy Stonecrop, Border Stonecrop
Hardiness Zones
Actual hardiness always has some variability, depending on the type of sedum you are growing and your growing conditions for the year.
However, sedum plants tend to be tough and adaptable. You can expect them to survive in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 - 10.
Mature Plant Size
Most tall sedum varieties stand upright and form a well-behaved mound, but there are a few, like "Matrona" that naturally flop over. In general, expect the mature size of your sedum plants to be 6 - 24 inches (H) x 12 - 24 inches (W).
Sun Exposure for Sedums
Sedums will grow best in full sun. They are very drought tolerant, but stonecrops can get sun scald in extremely hot, dry conditions. Sedums can be grown successfully in partial shade, but the plants might not be as sturdy and upright as they would be in full sun.
Bloom Time
Although sedum flowers don't open until late summer / early fall, the flower heads form early in the season. They start off a green color, like a broccoli bud, and slowly change color, usually from a pink to a mauve. The earlier, paler color is actually the flower in bloom. The mauve color is generally when the flower head is starting to dry. But sedum flowers tend to look good in all their stages, making them a great plant for a long season of interest.
Using Stonecrops in Your Garden Design
Sedum look especially good in a small mass planting that takes center stage in autumn. Because they look good all season, sedums are suitable for edging, as specimen plants and in containers. Smaller varieties are good choices for rock gardens and walls. Sedums make long-lasting cut flowers and are great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
The Best Sedum Varieties to Grow
Sedum "Autumn Joy" - Still a favorite because it is such a wonderful, beautiful performer.
Sedum spectabile "Brilliant" - A clearer pink than most Sedum flowers.
Sedum "Vera Jamison" - Burgandy leaves and mauve flowers with a trailing habit.
Sedum "Black Jack" - Deep burgundy, almost black foliage and strong upright habit.
Sedum "Cloud Nine" - Variegated Foliage
Sedum Growing Tips
Sedums are extremely easy to grow. They prefer a well-drained soil but can tolerate rainy weather as well. Extreme heat and lack of sun both cause Sedum to get a bit leggy. Pruning the plants back in early July will encourage them to get bushier and to grow sturdier, but it can result in smaller flowers.
Most of the sedum seed offered is for the low growing, ground cover varieties, not tall sedum. Taller sedums tend to be hybrids, and they won't grow true from seed. You will usually need to start off with plants or divisions.
Caring for Your Stonecrop Plants
Stonecrop flowers bloom only once; late in the season. Stonecrops do not need deadheading and often look good right through the winter. After several years, the center of Sedum plants will show signs of dying out, a sure sign they need dividing. Dividing them is a good idea at that point, to keep the plant vigorous.
Stem cuttings can be taken at any time, to propagate more Sedum.
More Drought Tolerant Succulent Plants to Grow
Sedums are not the only easy to grow succulent plants for your garden, although they do tend to be hardier than most other succulents. If you are interested in growing more of these fascinating drought-tolerant plants others you might try include Aeonium, Agave, Crassula, Echeveria, Euphorbia, Ice Plants (Lampranthus), Kalanchoe, and Senecio. Many of these also make great houseplants.
The flower buds form early and remain attractive well in winter. If the deer didn’t eat them, Sedum would be a perfect plant.
Growth Habit and Leaves: Border Stonecrops are a small section of the hundreds of species of Sedum. These taller growing Sedums have thick stems, fleshy leaves and tight flower heads that start out looking similar to heads of broccoli. Most are sturdy enough to stand upright on their own, with a few varieties that have a nice trailing quality, suitable for containers.
Flowers: Tall sedum flowers tend to come in shades of pink and mauve, that start out pale and deepen as they mature. The flower heads are attractive from bud through to their dried stage and are usually left standing tall throughout winter. The stems are even strong enough to hold a few inches of snow, capping the flower tops.
Botanical Name
Sedum
Common Names
Showy Stonecrop, Border Stonecrop
Hardiness Zones
Actual hardiness always has some variability, depending on the type of sedum you are growing and your growing conditions for the year.
However, sedum plants tend to be tough and adaptable. You can expect them to survive in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 - 10.
Mature Plant Size
Most tall sedum varieties stand upright and form a well-behaved mound, but there are a few, like "Matrona" that naturally flop over. In general, expect the mature size of your sedum plants to be 6 - 24 inches (H) x 12 - 24 inches (W).
Sun Exposure for Sedums
Sedums will grow best in full sun. They are very drought tolerant, but stonecrops can get sun scald in extremely hot, dry conditions. Sedums can be grown successfully in partial shade, but the plants might not be as sturdy and upright as they would be in full sun.
Bloom Time
Although sedum flowers don't open until late summer / early fall, the flower heads form early in the season. They start off a green color, like a broccoli bud, and slowly change color, usually from a pink to a mauve. The earlier, paler color is actually the flower in bloom. The mauve color is generally when the flower head is starting to dry. But sedum flowers tend to look good in all their stages, making them a great plant for a long season of interest.
Using Stonecrops in Your Garden Design
Sedum look especially good in a small mass planting that takes center stage in autumn. Because they look good all season, sedums are suitable for edging, as specimen plants and in containers. Smaller varieties are good choices for rock gardens and walls. Sedums make long-lasting cut flowers and are great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
The Best Sedum Varieties to Grow
Sedum "Autumn Joy" - Still a favorite because it is such a wonderful, beautiful performer.
Sedum spectabile "Brilliant" - A clearer pink than most Sedum flowers.
Sedum "Vera Jamison" - Burgandy leaves and mauve flowers with a trailing habit.
Sedum "Black Jack" - Deep burgundy, almost black foliage and strong upright habit.
Sedum "Cloud Nine" - Variegated Foliage
Sedum Growing Tips
Sedums are extremely easy to grow. They prefer a well-drained soil but can tolerate rainy weather as well. Extreme heat and lack of sun both cause Sedum to get a bit leggy. Pruning the plants back in early July will encourage them to get bushier and to grow sturdier, but it can result in smaller flowers.
Most of the sedum seed offered is for the low growing, ground cover varieties, not tall sedum. Taller sedums tend to be hybrids, and they won't grow true from seed. You will usually need to start off with plants or divisions.
Caring for Your Stonecrop Plants
Stonecrop flowers bloom only once; late in the season. Stonecrops do not need deadheading and often look good right through the winter. After several years, the center of Sedum plants will show signs of dying out, a sure sign they need dividing. Dividing them is a good idea at that point, to keep the plant vigorous.
Stem cuttings can be taken at any time, to propagate more Sedum.
More Drought Tolerant Succulent Plants to Grow
Sedums are not the only easy to grow succulent plants for your garden, although they do tend to be hardier than most other succulents. If you are interested in growing more of these fascinating drought-tolerant plants others you might try include Aeonium, Agave, Crassula, Echeveria, Euphorbia, Ice Plants (Lampranthus), Kalanchoe, and Senecio. Many of these also make great houseplants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月29日
Description: This plant is a summer annual about 2-8" tall and similarly across. Large plants are abundantly branched, although small plants are sometimes unbranched. The slender stems are green or reddish green, terete, and glandular-hairy. The leaves occur in opposite pairs or in whorls of 3. They are up to 1" long and ½" across, pinnately lobed, green, and glandular-hairy. Each leaf has 3-7 linear-oblong lobes and a few dentate teeth or small secondary lobes. Because of the sticky foliage, the entire plant may become brownish green if it becomes immersed in muddy water. Individual flowers are produced from the axils of the upper leaves (one flower per leaf axil).
Each flower has a tubular corolla up to ¼" long and a calyx with 5 linear-lanceolate teeth. The corolla is pale blue-violet, lavender, or nearly white, and weakly two-lipped. The upper lip has 1-2 shallow lobes, while the lower lip has 3 shallow lobes. There is no nectar spur on the corolla. The calyx is green and glandular-hairy. The pedicels are up to ¼" long, green or pale reddish green, terete, and glandular-hairy. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer into the fall. Individual plants may bloom intermittently for 1-2 months, if not longer. Each flower is replaced with an ovoid seed capsule that is about the same length as the calyx teeth (less than ¼" in length). Each capsule contains many tiny seeds that are light brown and dust-like. The seeds can be carried aloft by the wind or float on water. The root system consists of a shallow branching taproot and fibrous secondary roots. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to full sun, wet to moist conditions, and soil that is muddy, sandy, gravelly, or rocky. Growth and development occur primarily during the summer and early fall. This plant can tolerate occasional inundation by water if it is temporary. It is intolerant of competition from taller ground vegetation.
Range & Habitat: The native Obe-wan-Conobea occurs occasionally in most areas of Illinois, except in the NW, extreme north, and some south-central counties (see Distribution Map). Outside of Illinois, it is found in the Midwest and south-central states. Habitats include prairie swales, sand and gravel bars along rivers, muddy borders of ponds, edges of springs in wooded areas, rocky depressions in limestone bluffs, sandy ditches, edges of mud puddles, and gravelly areas around parking lots. This plant is often found in disturbed areas that are partially shaded; it is also found in higher quality habitats.
Faunal Associations: Very little is known about floral-faunal relations for this plant. Small bees probably visit the flowers for nectar and possibly pollen. The glandular hairs of the foliage probably deter ants from robbing the nectar. It's possible that the tiny seeds can cling to the muddy feet or moist feathers of waterfowl (especially ducks and geese). When the waterfowl visit other wetlands, this would spread the seeds into new areas.
Photographic Location: Gravelly ground near a parking lot at a shopping mall in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: This is another small annual plant of the Figwort family that produces small tubular flowers. Because of its diminutive size, Obe-Wan-Conobea is easy to overlook, especially when it isn't blooming. The small annual plants of the Figwort family occur in either dry areas or wetlands where there is scant or low ground vegetation. Obe-Wan-Conobea is found in wetlands or moist wooded areas. It differs from other plants in this group by its pinnately lobed leaves, which are sometimes whorled. This makes Obe-Wan-Conobea relatively easy to identify. The derivation of the strange common name comes from a publication of Floyd Swink, who named this plant after a character in the movie Star Wars, although the publisher did not discover this until after his book was already published (John White, personal communication). Another common name for this plant is Narrow-Leaved Paleseed, which was undoubtedly invented by a botanist. A scientific synonym for this species is Conobea multifida.
Each flower has a tubular corolla up to ¼" long and a calyx with 5 linear-lanceolate teeth. The corolla is pale blue-violet, lavender, or nearly white, and weakly two-lipped. The upper lip has 1-2 shallow lobes, while the lower lip has 3 shallow lobes. There is no nectar spur on the corolla. The calyx is green and glandular-hairy. The pedicels are up to ¼" long, green or pale reddish green, terete, and glandular-hairy. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer into the fall. Individual plants may bloom intermittently for 1-2 months, if not longer. Each flower is replaced with an ovoid seed capsule that is about the same length as the calyx teeth (less than ¼" in length). Each capsule contains many tiny seeds that are light brown and dust-like. The seeds can be carried aloft by the wind or float on water. The root system consists of a shallow branching taproot and fibrous secondary roots. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is light shade to full sun, wet to moist conditions, and soil that is muddy, sandy, gravelly, or rocky. Growth and development occur primarily during the summer and early fall. This plant can tolerate occasional inundation by water if it is temporary. It is intolerant of competition from taller ground vegetation.
Range & Habitat: The native Obe-wan-Conobea occurs occasionally in most areas of Illinois, except in the NW, extreme north, and some south-central counties (see Distribution Map). Outside of Illinois, it is found in the Midwest and south-central states. Habitats include prairie swales, sand and gravel bars along rivers, muddy borders of ponds, edges of springs in wooded areas, rocky depressions in limestone bluffs, sandy ditches, edges of mud puddles, and gravelly areas around parking lots. This plant is often found in disturbed areas that are partially shaded; it is also found in higher quality habitats.
Faunal Associations: Very little is known about floral-faunal relations for this plant. Small bees probably visit the flowers for nectar and possibly pollen. The glandular hairs of the foliage probably deter ants from robbing the nectar. It's possible that the tiny seeds can cling to the muddy feet or moist feathers of waterfowl (especially ducks and geese). When the waterfowl visit other wetlands, this would spread the seeds into new areas.
Photographic Location: Gravelly ground near a parking lot at a shopping mall in Champaign, Illinois.
Comments: This is another small annual plant of the Figwort family that produces small tubular flowers. Because of its diminutive size, Obe-Wan-Conobea is easy to overlook, especially when it isn't blooming. The small annual plants of the Figwort family occur in either dry areas or wetlands where there is scant or low ground vegetation. Obe-Wan-Conobea is found in wetlands or moist wooded areas. It differs from other plants in this group by its pinnately lobed leaves, which are sometimes whorled. This makes Obe-Wan-Conobea relatively easy to identify. The derivation of the strange common name comes from a publication of Floyd Swink, who named this plant after a character in the movie Star Wars, although the publisher did not discover this until after his book was already published (John White, personal communication). Another common name for this plant is Narrow-Leaved Paleseed, which was undoubtedly invented by a botanist. A scientific synonym for this species is Conobea multifida.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月28日
Is your knowledge of succulent plants based on that dusty jade plant in the office corner? The popularity of succulent plants has exploded in recent years, due not only to the low care requirements of these sun lovers, but also because of the diversity these fascinating plants. Special anatomical adaptations and colors make some succulents look like they belong more on another planet than on our windowsill. Here are ten unusual succulents that will add personality and distinction to your garden or houseplant collection.
1.Mexican Hens and Chicks 'Topsy Turvy'
The Echeveria genus of succulents, also known as Mexican hens and chicks, encompasses hundreds of rosette-forming plants native to Mexico, Central America and South America. The squared-off leaf tips of Echeveria 'Topsy Turvy' give it a sea urchin appearance and look handsome when planted in groups or combined with other succulents in a dish garden. Plant 'Topsy Turvy' in a chartreuse pot to show off its pale bluish-green leaves.
2.Plover Eggs
Sometimes called plover eggs plant, Adromischus cooperi sports pudgy little leaves dotted with purplish-grey speckles. The plants are especially sensitive to frost and must not be exposed to temperatures lower than 45 F. The speckles on plover egg plants will become more pronounced in bright sunlight. Plants are easy to propagate by leaf cuttings. Twist off a leaf from the stem and insert into moist cactus mix. Roots will form in four to six weeks.
3.Crinkle Leaf Plant
A South African relative of the kalanchoe, crinkle leaf plants (Adromischus cristatus) feature triangular leaves with lightly ruffled tips. Crinkle leaf plants tolerate a light frost, but grow best in a cool sunny spot with infrequent waterings. Red and white flowers may peek out between the two-inch leaves on mature plants.
4.Pebbled Tiger Jaws
Faucaria felina is the kind of plant that both attracts and repels the temptation to touch the strangely serrated leaves. In addition to the fascinating leaf form of pebbled tiger jaws, the plants may produce golden yellow flowers that nearly obscure the plant in fall and winter. Pebbled tiger jaw plants fill a niche for those who need a shade-tolerant succulent, but they also require more irrigation than most succulents. If the plants become too dry and the leaves separate from the stems, you can use them to start new plants if you act quickly.
5.Baseball Plant
Euphorbia obesa is just the plump character to beef up your indoor container garden. Its spherical shape adds heft and textural interest to plantings, but don't bear the spines one would expect on a round succulent. A weekly watering is pleasing to the baseball plant, and will help it to live a long life in your home. Petite flowers may appear on the top of the globe, giving you a signal that the plant is thriving.
1.Mexican Hens and Chicks 'Topsy Turvy'
The Echeveria genus of succulents, also known as Mexican hens and chicks, encompasses hundreds of rosette-forming plants native to Mexico, Central America and South America. The squared-off leaf tips of Echeveria 'Topsy Turvy' give it a sea urchin appearance and look handsome when planted in groups or combined with other succulents in a dish garden. Plant 'Topsy Turvy' in a chartreuse pot to show off its pale bluish-green leaves.
2.Plover Eggs
Sometimes called plover eggs plant, Adromischus cooperi sports pudgy little leaves dotted with purplish-grey speckles. The plants are especially sensitive to frost and must not be exposed to temperatures lower than 45 F. The speckles on plover egg plants will become more pronounced in bright sunlight. Plants are easy to propagate by leaf cuttings. Twist off a leaf from the stem and insert into moist cactus mix. Roots will form in four to six weeks.
3.Crinkle Leaf Plant
A South African relative of the kalanchoe, crinkle leaf plants (Adromischus cristatus) feature triangular leaves with lightly ruffled tips. Crinkle leaf plants tolerate a light frost, but grow best in a cool sunny spot with infrequent waterings. Red and white flowers may peek out between the two-inch leaves on mature plants.
4.Pebbled Tiger Jaws
Faucaria felina is the kind of plant that both attracts and repels the temptation to touch the strangely serrated leaves. In addition to the fascinating leaf form of pebbled tiger jaws, the plants may produce golden yellow flowers that nearly obscure the plant in fall and winter. Pebbled tiger jaw plants fill a niche for those who need a shade-tolerant succulent, but they also require more irrigation than most succulents. If the plants become too dry and the leaves separate from the stems, you can use them to start new plants if you act quickly.
5.Baseball Plant
Euphorbia obesa is just the plump character to beef up your indoor container garden. Its spherical shape adds heft and textural interest to plantings, but don't bear the spines one would expect on a round succulent. A weekly watering is pleasing to the baseball plant, and will help it to live a long life in your home. Petite flowers may appear on the top of the globe, giving you a signal that the plant is thriving.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月28日
6.Graptoveria 'Topsy Debbie'
Graptopetalums like 'Topsy Debbie' form rosettes of leaves that spread by offsets, which easily form new plants for your propagating pleasure. Plants must grow in full sun for best health and vigor.
7.Aloe hawthoroides
The classic aloe plant has gotten an update: Aloe hawthoroides has dozens of feathery bristles on each leaf, which are all bark but no bite. This touchable plant has a moderate growth habit and is tolerant of a wide variety of growing conditions, as long as you don't let it freeze or sit in stagnant water.
8.Kalanchoe rhombopilosa
Who can resist a plant called "pies from heaven?" This kalanchoe is but one of the many strange and beautiful living things that hails from Madagascar. The leaves are fuzzy, grey and covered with brown streaking. Insignificant yellow flowers may appear on stalks in the spring. Give your kalanchoe abundant light for healthy plants.
Continue to 9 of 10 below.
9.Echeveria gibbiflora 'Barbillion'
If you've ever observed the fleshy wattle of a turkey or rooster, you have seen something these fowl have in common with echeveria 'Barbillion:' they are both carunculated. This term refers to a bumpy, fleshy growth. Is it beautiful or hideous? Give it plenty of light and water sparingly, and see if the unusual appeal of this succulent grows on you.
10.Echeveria 'Blue Curls'
A single specimen of echeveria, 'Blue Curls' makes an exquisite statement in a container with its frilly leaves and pink and aqua coloration. Prevent water from accumulating within the rosette and remove dead leaves from the plant's base to keep pests from interfering with its vigor.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月28日
Description: This herbaceous perennial wildflower is usually an emergent aquatic that is exerted 1-3' above the water line, otherwise it is a terrestrial plant of similar height. The stems are usually unbranched, although larger plants are sometimes branched below. The stems are light green, angular-terete, and glabrous. At intervals along each stem, there are pairs of opposite leaves about 2-6" long and ¼-1" across that are either sessile or short-petioled. The deciduous leaves are narrowly lanceolate, linear-lanceolate, elliptic, or narrowly elliptic in shape and usually smooth along their margins. Less often, the outer margins may be slightly undulate or shallowly crenate. Both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves are medium green and glabrous.
From the axils of the middle to upper leaves, there develops individual spikes of flowers on long peduncles. Each floral spike is about 1" long and capitate (head-like) in appearance; there are several overlapping flowers and buds per spike. Each flower is about ¾" across, consisting of a short-tubular corolla with 4 lobes, a short-tubular calyx with 5 teeth, 2 stamens with dark purple or dark brown anthers, and an ovary with a slender white style. The corolla has a shallowly notched upper lobe that curves backward, 2 lateral lobes that are widely spreading, and a lower lobe that curves slightly downward. Except for the dark purple mottling at the base of the lower lobe, the lobes are mostly white, otherwise they are tinted pale purple or they are lightly speckled with fine purple dots. The lobes of the corolla are longer than the corolla tube, and they are oblong to oblong-oblanceolate in shape. The green calyx is about ¼" long and glabrous; its teeth are narrowly lanceolate. The ascending straight peduncles are a little shorter to about as long as the leaves (up to 6" in length); they are medium green, angular, and glabrous. The blooming period occurs from early summer into the fall, lasting about 2-4 months. Usually, only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by seed capsules up to ½" long that taper to stipe-like bases. Each capsule has 2 cells, and each cell contains 2 seeds. The seeds are about 1/8" (3 mm.) in length and warty. The root system is highly rhizomatous, forming colonies of plants.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, shallow standing water (up to 3' deep) or wet conditions, and soil that is muddy, sandy, or gravelly.
Range & Habitat: The native Water Willow is occasional in most areas of Illinois, except the NW section of the state, where it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include sandbars, gravelbars, or mudbars of rivers, low islands in rivers or ponds, shallow water or muddy banks of ponds and rivers, shallow water of rocky upland streams, shallow water or wet areas of swamps, and sandy marshes. Water Willow occurs in wetlands with either stagnant water or slow to moderate currents of water.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated primarily by bees, including honeybees, bumblebees, Anthophorine bees (Anthophora spp.), little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), cuckoo bees (Epeolus spp., Triepeolus spp.), long-horned bees (Melissodes spp., Synhalonia spp.), leaf-cutter bees (Megachile spp.), green metallic bees, and other Halictid bees. Other floral visitors include various wasps, bee flies (Bombyliidae), thick-headed flies (Conopidae), Syrphid flies (non-pollinating), small butterflies, and skippers. These insects obtain primarily nectar from the flowers, although some bees collect pollen and some flies feed on pollen. Water Willow is one of the host plants for the caterpillars of Darapsa versicolor (Hydrangea Sphinx); they feed on the foliage. This plant is also a minor source of food for muskrats.
Photographic Location: A sandy marsh at the Heron Boardwalk in Vermilion County, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers of Water Willow are fairly showy and bloom intermittently for a long period of time. In spite of its common name, this is a non-woody herbaceous plant that is not closely related to willows (Salix). Water Willow is the most northern member of its genus. Another species that can be found in southern Illinois, Justicia ovata (Southern Water Willow), is a slightly smaller plant with wider leaves and more loosely flowered spikes. Otherwise, these two species have a similar appearance and prefer similar habitats. A scientific synonym of Water Willow is Dianthera americana.
From the axils of the middle to upper leaves, there develops individual spikes of flowers on long peduncles. Each floral spike is about 1" long and capitate (head-like) in appearance; there are several overlapping flowers and buds per spike. Each flower is about ¾" across, consisting of a short-tubular corolla with 4 lobes, a short-tubular calyx with 5 teeth, 2 stamens with dark purple or dark brown anthers, and an ovary with a slender white style. The corolla has a shallowly notched upper lobe that curves backward, 2 lateral lobes that are widely spreading, and a lower lobe that curves slightly downward. Except for the dark purple mottling at the base of the lower lobe, the lobes are mostly white, otherwise they are tinted pale purple or they are lightly speckled with fine purple dots. The lobes of the corolla are longer than the corolla tube, and they are oblong to oblong-oblanceolate in shape. The green calyx is about ¼" long and glabrous; its teeth are narrowly lanceolate. The ascending straight peduncles are a little shorter to about as long as the leaves (up to 6" in length); they are medium green, angular, and glabrous. The blooming period occurs from early summer into the fall, lasting about 2-4 months. Usually, only a few flowers are in bloom at the same time. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by seed capsules up to ½" long that taper to stipe-like bases. Each capsule has 2 cells, and each cell contains 2 seeds. The seeds are about 1/8" (3 mm.) in length and warty. The root system is highly rhizomatous, forming colonies of plants.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, shallow standing water (up to 3' deep) or wet conditions, and soil that is muddy, sandy, or gravelly.
Range & Habitat: The native Water Willow is occasional in most areas of Illinois, except the NW section of the state, where it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include sandbars, gravelbars, or mudbars of rivers, low islands in rivers or ponds, shallow water or muddy banks of ponds and rivers, shallow water of rocky upland streams, shallow water or wet areas of swamps, and sandy marshes. Water Willow occurs in wetlands with either stagnant water or slow to moderate currents of water.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are cross-pollinated primarily by bees, including honeybees, bumblebees, Anthophorine bees (Anthophora spp.), little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), cuckoo bees (Epeolus spp., Triepeolus spp.), long-horned bees (Melissodes spp., Synhalonia spp.), leaf-cutter bees (Megachile spp.), green metallic bees, and other Halictid bees. Other floral visitors include various wasps, bee flies (Bombyliidae), thick-headed flies (Conopidae), Syrphid flies (non-pollinating), small butterflies, and skippers. These insects obtain primarily nectar from the flowers, although some bees collect pollen and some flies feed on pollen. Water Willow is one of the host plants for the caterpillars of Darapsa versicolor (Hydrangea Sphinx); they feed on the foliage. This plant is also a minor source of food for muskrats.
Photographic Location: A sandy marsh at the Heron Boardwalk in Vermilion County, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers of Water Willow are fairly showy and bloom intermittently for a long period of time. In spite of its common name, this is a non-woody herbaceous plant that is not closely related to willows (Salix). Water Willow is the most northern member of its genus. Another species that can be found in southern Illinois, Justicia ovata (Southern Water Willow), is a slightly smaller plant with wider leaves and more loosely flowered spikes. Otherwise, these two species have a similar appearance and prefer similar habitats. A scientific synonym of Water Willow is Dianthera americana.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月27日
1.Aeonium Plants
Aeoniums are odd looking succulent plants, with long, arching stems and rosettes of leaves that can often look so perfect, you might think they were fake. You'd be forgiven if you had to touch one to tell if it was real or rubbery plastic. There are about 35 species and most are native to the Canary Islands. They prefer a Mediterranean climate - not too hot, not too cold, not too dry.
The plants form fleshy rosettes and you will notice a similarity between Aeoniums and several other succulent plants, most noticeably Echeveria and Sempervivum, the popular Hens and Chicks. Aeoniums can be low growers or branching plants that grow into shrubs.
Leaves: Rosettes with somewhat rounded leaves. Stems can be short and stubby or long and branched. Leaves can be solid colors or variegated in white, yellow, red and green.
Flowers: Flowers stems emerge from the center of the rosettes. The small, star-like flowers grow in clusters.
Botanical Name
Aeonium
Common Names
The genus Aeonium does not have a common name.
Hardiness Zones
Most Aeonium varieties are only hardy in USDA Zones 9 – 11, although they can withstand occasional frosts down to about 25̊ F (-4̊ C).
Sun Exposure
As with most succulents, Aeonium plants grow best in full sun to partial shade. In hot summers and desert conditions, light shade may be necessary.
Mature Plant Size
Size will vary greatly with variety. Some Aeonium varieties are low growing and get only a few inches tall, with rosettes an inch or two across. Others will branch out and grow 3 – 4 feet tall with plate-sized rosettes.
Bloom Period
Most Aeonium bloom in late winter or spring.
Using Aeonium in Your Garden Design
When grown in the garden, Aeoniums command the most attention in masses. Tall varieties can look like bonsai when they get shrubby. You can trim them if they get leggy. The cuttings will readily root and make new plants, helping you fill out your planting area.
Needing so little soil, Aeoniums make great container plants. You can get a closer look at their unique features in containers, and have better control over their growing conditions. In high humidity or rainy areas, you may not need to water them, although they do need regular water. Keep close tabs on them and use your judgment. Using a regular potting soil, rather than a fast draining soil for succulents, will help maintain their moisture level.
Suggested Aeonium Varieties
Aeonium arboreum – Widely available. Bright green rosettes on a branching stem.
Aeonium arboreum "Atropurpureum:: Maroon leaves if grown in bright light.
Aeonium arboreum "Zwartkop": Very dark, almost black leaves.
Aeonium "Garnet": A hybrid of "Zwartkop", with red leaves.
Aeonium davidbramwelli "Sunburst'": Rosettes up to 1 foot across. Pale yellow, white and green stripes, with pink tips. Can handle some frost.
Aeonium haworthii "Tricolor" or "Kiwi": Easy growing. 4-inch flowers have pale yellow centers when young, maturing to red and green.
2.Growing and Caring for Aeoniums
Aeonium Growing Tips
Water: Aeoniums do not like really hot or dry weather. They may go dormant in summer and do not require any water, except in excessively dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss.
Growing them in moist shade will keep them growing in high heat, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65–75 F.) and damp.
In the winter, water whenever the soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. Too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Soil: A sandy loam or regular potting mix is better than a mix specifically for succulents and cacti since Aeonium need some moisture. If you are growing them in containers, re-pot every 2 –3 years with fresh potting soil.
Fertilizer: Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer, every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
Caring for Your Aeonium Plants
If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeonium will take care of themselves and actually thrive on neglect. Otherwise, your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again or moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low.
Aeonium have underdeveloped root systems since they store their water in their leaves and stems. They have the ability to produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems fall and touch the soil. The stem roots will quickly turn the fallen pieces into new plants.
Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off, from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can re-plant the broken stem.
Most Aeoniums die after flowering. If the plant has produced side shoots, those side shoots will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. That's why it is nice to periodically start new plants from cuttings. You can also start new plants from the seed.
Pests and Problems:
Few pests bother Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage and the occasional bird may take a bite.
Here are More Drought Tolerant Succulent Plants to Grow.
Aeoniums are odd looking succulent plants, with long, arching stems and rosettes of leaves that can often look so perfect, you might think they were fake. You'd be forgiven if you had to touch one to tell if it was real or rubbery plastic. There are about 35 species and most are native to the Canary Islands. They prefer a Mediterranean climate - not too hot, not too cold, not too dry.
The plants form fleshy rosettes and you will notice a similarity between Aeoniums and several other succulent plants, most noticeably Echeveria and Sempervivum, the popular Hens and Chicks. Aeoniums can be low growers or branching plants that grow into shrubs.
Leaves: Rosettes with somewhat rounded leaves. Stems can be short and stubby or long and branched. Leaves can be solid colors or variegated in white, yellow, red and green.
Flowers: Flowers stems emerge from the center of the rosettes. The small, star-like flowers grow in clusters.
Botanical Name
Aeonium
Common Names
The genus Aeonium does not have a common name.
Hardiness Zones
Most Aeonium varieties are only hardy in USDA Zones 9 – 11, although they can withstand occasional frosts down to about 25̊ F (-4̊ C).
Sun Exposure
As with most succulents, Aeonium plants grow best in full sun to partial shade. In hot summers and desert conditions, light shade may be necessary.
Mature Plant Size
Size will vary greatly with variety. Some Aeonium varieties are low growing and get only a few inches tall, with rosettes an inch or two across. Others will branch out and grow 3 – 4 feet tall with plate-sized rosettes.
Bloom Period
Most Aeonium bloom in late winter or spring.
Using Aeonium in Your Garden Design
When grown in the garden, Aeoniums command the most attention in masses. Tall varieties can look like bonsai when they get shrubby. You can trim them if they get leggy. The cuttings will readily root and make new plants, helping you fill out your planting area.
Needing so little soil, Aeoniums make great container plants. You can get a closer look at their unique features in containers, and have better control over their growing conditions. In high humidity or rainy areas, you may not need to water them, although they do need regular water. Keep close tabs on them and use your judgment. Using a regular potting soil, rather than a fast draining soil for succulents, will help maintain their moisture level.
Suggested Aeonium Varieties
Aeonium arboreum – Widely available. Bright green rosettes on a branching stem.
Aeonium arboreum "Atropurpureum:: Maroon leaves if grown in bright light.
Aeonium arboreum "Zwartkop": Very dark, almost black leaves.
Aeonium "Garnet": A hybrid of "Zwartkop", with red leaves.
Aeonium davidbramwelli "Sunburst'": Rosettes up to 1 foot across. Pale yellow, white and green stripes, with pink tips. Can handle some frost.
Aeonium haworthii "Tricolor" or "Kiwi": Easy growing. 4-inch flowers have pale yellow centers when young, maturing to red and green.
2.Growing and Caring for Aeoniums
Aeonium Growing Tips
Water: Aeoniums do not like really hot or dry weather. They may go dormant in summer and do not require any water, except in excessively dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss.
Growing them in moist shade will keep them growing in high heat, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65–75 F.) and damp.
In the winter, water whenever the soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. Too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Soil: A sandy loam or regular potting mix is better than a mix specifically for succulents and cacti since Aeonium need some moisture. If you are growing them in containers, re-pot every 2 –3 years with fresh potting soil.
Fertilizer: Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer, every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
Caring for Your Aeonium Plants
If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeonium will take care of themselves and actually thrive on neglect. Otherwise, your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again or moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low.
Aeonium have underdeveloped root systems since they store their water in their leaves and stems. They have the ability to produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems fall and touch the soil. The stem roots will quickly turn the fallen pieces into new plants.
Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off, from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can re-plant the broken stem.
Most Aeoniums die after flowering. If the plant has produced side shoots, those side shoots will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. That's why it is nice to periodically start new plants from cuttings. You can also start new plants from the seed.
Pests and Problems:
Few pests bother Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage and the occasional bird may take a bite.
Here are More Drought Tolerant Succulent Plants to Grow.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月27日
1.Agave Plants
Agave plants are best known as succulent plants with large leaves that end in spiny tips. At first glance, you probably wouldn’t call agave plants rosettes, although they are. So many of the common ones are spiny succulents, with leaves that jut out in often dangerous spikes. There is actually a lot of variety in the agave genus. There are the large, stiff specimens that can grow to 20 feet in diameter. There are also small dish-sized agaves, and agave plants with soft leaves and no spines, although most do have leaves that end in a sharp point.
Leaves: Agaves are all stemless, or nearly so, with strappy, succulent leaves that end in sharp points. Foliage tends toward a blue-green in hardier varieties and a gray-green in warm climate varieties. There are also some that are variegated with gold or white markings.
Flowers: When the plant matures, a tall, flower-stalk grows out of the plant’s center. The flowers are bell-shaped and long-lasting, in shades of white, yellow and green. For most agave species, once the flowers produce the berry seed pods, the plant dies.
Botanical Name
Agave
Common Names
Agave plants are generally referred to as agaves. Agave americana as the Century Plant and that common name is sometimes confusingly used for all species of agave.
Cold Hardiness Zones
Most agave plants are not frost-hardy, but there are some, like Agave parryi, that are reliably perennial to USDA Hardiness Zone 5. However, the majority of them are only hardy in USDA Zones 8 or 9 and up.
Light Exposure
Agave plants need a spot in full sun to partial shade. The hotter the climate, the more shade they can handle.
Mature Size Of Agave Plants
There is a lot of variety in the size of agave plants. They can mature from a few inches tall to 20+ feet in diameter.
Agave Bloom Period
Agaves are grown for their dramatic foliage, not their flowers. That's a good thing because they bloom only once when they are fully mature. That can be anywhere from 5 to 40 years. Agave plants tend to bloom earlier in cultivation than they would in the wild. Most plants die after flowering, however, there are usually small offset plants at the base that can be replanted.
Garden Design Tips for Agave Plants
One large agave is all that is needed to make a sculptural focal point. Just make sure there is plenty of room to walk around it, so no one gets stabbed.
They can also make a nice border grouping, either by planting several of the same species or a tapestry of different varieties. They are textural and sculptural and make a vivid contrast with other plants. Pairing them with ornamental grasses softens their hard edges.
In warm climates, agaves are popular around pools and patios. Their leaves don’t brown and drop frequently and they stay attractive all year. A spineless variety, like the Foxtail Agave (Agave attenuata), is a safe bet around heavily used areas.
Smaller agave plants are excellent for containers, indoor or out.
Suggested Agave Varieties
Agave attenuata - A popular spineless variety also known as the Foxtail or Dragon-Tree Agave. Grows about 4 - 5 feet tall and a bit wider.
Agave parviflora - Leaves have white, graphic markings and curling filaments that give it a hairy look. It only gets about 6 inches tall and blooms in 6 - 8 years with green flowers on a 4 - 6 ft. spike.
Agave tequilana azul - Weber's Blue Agave is used to make a tequila, in Jalisco, Mexico, but it is also a very attractive garden plant, reaching upwards of 6 ft. tall and flowering in 6 - 8 years with a 15 ft. spike of yellow blooms.
Agave victoria-reginae - As the plant matures, the broad leaves cup inward, forming a dome. Reaches a height of about 12 inches. Cream flowers appear in 20 - 30 years
2.Growing and Caring for Agave
Agave Growing Tips
Agaves thrive on neglect. They grow quickly and remain attractive all year. Here are some tips for getting your agave plants established.
Propagation: Since it can take years for an agave plant to produce seed, most are propagated by offsets or tissue culture.
Soil: Agave will tolerate any well-draining soil, but their preference is rocky or sandy soil. They are not particular about soil pH.
Water: Although mature plants are very drought tolerant, when you are first establishing a plant outdoors, water it every 4 - 5 days for the first month. Then once a week, gradually spacing watering to every other week, depending on the weather.
Feeding: Don’t feed agave plants. Agaves seem to take care of themselves. Feeding encourages flowering, which you don’t want to happen too soon, since agave plants die off after flowering.
Growing Agave Plants in Containers
As with many succulent plants, agaves are shallow rooted. You can grow them in any size container, because they don’t need much soil. Use a well-draining soil. You can mix your own with something like 2 - 3 parts potting mix and 1 part gravel.
Re-pot container grown plants every couple of years, with new soil. Agaves can produce sucker roots. If the pot is overly crowded with roots, go ahead and cut the roots back to size. Give the plant a week or so to readjust, before you water it again.
Water about once a week in the summer and monthly in the winter. Wait until the surface of the soil is dry, before watering. In extremely dry conditions your agave may need more frequent water, but agaves are very forgiving.
More on growing agave as a houseplant.
Pests and Problems of Agave Plants
Agaves have very few problems. The agave snout weevil will burrow into the plant’s center to lay its eggs, causing the plant to collapse. Unfortunately, you probably won’t notice this until it’s too late. Remove the plant and check for any remaining grubs.
Agave plants are best known as succulent plants with large leaves that end in spiny tips. At first glance, you probably wouldn’t call agave plants rosettes, although they are. So many of the common ones are spiny succulents, with leaves that jut out in often dangerous spikes. There is actually a lot of variety in the agave genus. There are the large, stiff specimens that can grow to 20 feet in diameter. There are also small dish-sized agaves, and agave plants with soft leaves and no spines, although most do have leaves that end in a sharp point.
Leaves: Agaves are all stemless, or nearly so, with strappy, succulent leaves that end in sharp points. Foliage tends toward a blue-green in hardier varieties and a gray-green in warm climate varieties. There are also some that are variegated with gold or white markings.
Flowers: When the plant matures, a tall, flower-stalk grows out of the plant’s center. The flowers are bell-shaped and long-lasting, in shades of white, yellow and green. For most agave species, once the flowers produce the berry seed pods, the plant dies.
Botanical Name
Agave
Common Names
Agave plants are generally referred to as agaves. Agave americana as the Century Plant and that common name is sometimes confusingly used for all species of agave.
Cold Hardiness Zones
Most agave plants are not frost-hardy, but there are some, like Agave parryi, that are reliably perennial to USDA Hardiness Zone 5. However, the majority of them are only hardy in USDA Zones 8 or 9 and up.
Light Exposure
Agave plants need a spot in full sun to partial shade. The hotter the climate, the more shade they can handle.
Mature Size Of Agave Plants
There is a lot of variety in the size of agave plants. They can mature from a few inches tall to 20+ feet in diameter.
Agave Bloom Period
Agaves are grown for their dramatic foliage, not their flowers. That's a good thing because they bloom only once when they are fully mature. That can be anywhere from 5 to 40 years. Agave plants tend to bloom earlier in cultivation than they would in the wild. Most plants die after flowering, however, there are usually small offset plants at the base that can be replanted.
Garden Design Tips for Agave Plants
One large agave is all that is needed to make a sculptural focal point. Just make sure there is plenty of room to walk around it, so no one gets stabbed.
They can also make a nice border grouping, either by planting several of the same species or a tapestry of different varieties. They are textural and sculptural and make a vivid contrast with other plants. Pairing them with ornamental grasses softens their hard edges.
In warm climates, agaves are popular around pools and patios. Their leaves don’t brown and drop frequently and they stay attractive all year. A spineless variety, like the Foxtail Agave (Agave attenuata), is a safe bet around heavily used areas.
Smaller agave plants are excellent for containers, indoor or out.
Suggested Agave Varieties
Agave attenuata - A popular spineless variety also known as the Foxtail or Dragon-Tree Agave. Grows about 4 - 5 feet tall and a bit wider.
Agave parviflora - Leaves have white, graphic markings and curling filaments that give it a hairy look. It only gets about 6 inches tall and blooms in 6 - 8 years with green flowers on a 4 - 6 ft. spike.
Agave tequilana azul - Weber's Blue Agave is used to make a tequila, in Jalisco, Mexico, but it is also a very attractive garden plant, reaching upwards of 6 ft. tall and flowering in 6 - 8 years with a 15 ft. spike of yellow blooms.
Agave victoria-reginae - As the plant matures, the broad leaves cup inward, forming a dome. Reaches a height of about 12 inches. Cream flowers appear in 20 - 30 years
2.Growing and Caring for Agave
Agave Growing Tips
Agaves thrive on neglect. They grow quickly and remain attractive all year. Here are some tips for getting your agave plants established.
Propagation: Since it can take years for an agave plant to produce seed, most are propagated by offsets or tissue culture.
Soil: Agave will tolerate any well-draining soil, but their preference is rocky or sandy soil. They are not particular about soil pH.
Water: Although mature plants are very drought tolerant, when you are first establishing a plant outdoors, water it every 4 - 5 days for the first month. Then once a week, gradually spacing watering to every other week, depending on the weather.
Feeding: Don’t feed agave plants. Agaves seem to take care of themselves. Feeding encourages flowering, which you don’t want to happen too soon, since agave plants die off after flowering.
Growing Agave Plants in Containers
As with many succulent plants, agaves are shallow rooted. You can grow them in any size container, because they don’t need much soil. Use a well-draining soil. You can mix your own with something like 2 - 3 parts potting mix and 1 part gravel.
Re-pot container grown plants every couple of years, with new soil. Agaves can produce sucker roots. If the pot is overly crowded with roots, go ahead and cut the roots back to size. Give the plant a week or so to readjust, before you water it again.
Water about once a week in the summer and monthly in the winter. Wait until the surface of the soil is dry, before watering. In extremely dry conditions your agave may need more frequent water, but agaves are very forgiving.
More on growing agave as a houseplant.
Pests and Problems of Agave Plants
Agaves have very few problems. The agave snout weevil will burrow into the plant’s center to lay its eggs, causing the plant to collapse. Unfortunately, you probably won’t notice this until it’s too late. Remove the plant and check for any remaining grubs.
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