文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月10日
Named for their large, broad leaves, elephant ears (Colocasia spp.) are moisture loving plants that can grow in up to 6 inches of standing water. Colocasia esculenta, which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, is a commonly grown variety of elephant ears. Also called taro, this elephant ears variety usually grows 3 to 6 feet tall and wide, and features boldly veined leaves up to 2 feet long. Uncooked elephant ears are poisonous, and the plants are invasive in some areas of the United States.
Transplanting Time
The best time for transplanting elephant ears is when new growth appears in spring. Elephant ears sprout from tubers in spring and quickly grow into large, spreading clumps. In frost-free areas elephant ears can be transplanted any time of year, but transplanting when the plants are small is easiest.
In areas of the United States that experience frosts, elephant ears must be transplanted after the final local average frost date. If late frosts threaten after the plants have been transplanted, cover elephant ears with old sheets or several layers of newspaper overnight.
Growing Spot
A sheltered, partially shaded spot with organically rich, medium moisture or wet soil provides the best growing conditions for transplanted elephant ears. These plants also need protection from strong winds. In a wet site, such as the edge of a pond, elephant ears tolerate up to eight hours of direct sunlight, but the plants grow best in filtered sun or shade during the hottest part of the day.
Improve the soil for elephant ears by mixing in organic matter before transplanting. Spread a 4-inch layer of garden compost or aged manure over the growing spot and mix it 12 inches deep into the soil with a garden fork.
Planting Hole
Elephant ears can establish quickly in wide planting holes. These vigorous plants can grow up to 8 feet tall in one growing season in ideal conditions and produce tubers that weigh 1 to 2 pounds.
Dig a hole as deep as an elephant ear's root ball and twice as wide. Remove the plant from its container and place it in the center of the hole. The plant should sit at its original growing depth. Holding the elephant ears plant upright with one hand, scoop the dug soil into the hole with the other hand until you fill the hole. Gently press the soil around the plant with the flats of your hands to firm the plant in the hole.
Watering Elephant Ears
Regular watering is essential for newly transplanted elephant ears. Spray water over the growing spot using a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment. When the water puddles, stop watering and wait an hour. Test the soil moisture level by pushing your fingers into it. If the soil is moist but not wet, water the plants again.
Don't allow the soil around elephant ears to dry out. Water elephant ears when the soil surface begins to dry or more frequently.
Transplanting Time
The best time for transplanting elephant ears is when new growth appears in spring. Elephant ears sprout from tubers in spring and quickly grow into large, spreading clumps. In frost-free areas elephant ears can be transplanted any time of year, but transplanting when the plants are small is easiest.
In areas of the United States that experience frosts, elephant ears must be transplanted after the final local average frost date. If late frosts threaten after the plants have been transplanted, cover elephant ears with old sheets or several layers of newspaper overnight.
Growing Spot
A sheltered, partially shaded spot with organically rich, medium moisture or wet soil provides the best growing conditions for transplanted elephant ears. These plants also need protection from strong winds. In a wet site, such as the edge of a pond, elephant ears tolerate up to eight hours of direct sunlight, but the plants grow best in filtered sun or shade during the hottest part of the day.
Improve the soil for elephant ears by mixing in organic matter before transplanting. Spread a 4-inch layer of garden compost or aged manure over the growing spot and mix it 12 inches deep into the soil with a garden fork.
Planting Hole
Elephant ears can establish quickly in wide planting holes. These vigorous plants can grow up to 8 feet tall in one growing season in ideal conditions and produce tubers that weigh 1 to 2 pounds.
Dig a hole as deep as an elephant ear's root ball and twice as wide. Remove the plant from its container and place it in the center of the hole. The plant should sit at its original growing depth. Holding the elephant ears plant upright with one hand, scoop the dug soil into the hole with the other hand until you fill the hole. Gently press the soil around the plant with the flats of your hands to firm the plant in the hole.
Watering Elephant Ears
Regular watering is essential for newly transplanted elephant ears. Spray water over the growing spot using a garden hose fitted with a soft spray attachment. When the water puddles, stop watering and wait an hour. Test the soil moisture level by pushing your fingers into it. If the soil is moist but not wet, water the plants again.
Don't allow the soil around elephant ears to dry out. Water elephant ears when the soil surface begins to dry or more frequently.
1
1
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
For a colorful, showy display of flowers, few plants out-perform the peony (Paeonia spp.), a perennial that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, with some variation among the different varieties. Although most peonies are attractive even when not in bloom, it can be discouraging when a plant fails to bloom or produces only a few flowers. Giving a peony some extra care or making a few adjustments can help prevent or correct this problem.
Plant Maturity and Depth
A peony might not bloom simply because it's too immature; in that case, all you need to do is wait a while to see flowers. If you've recently planted a new, nursery-grown peony, it may take several years to reach a size and maturity that can support flowering. It could take even longer to see flowers -- up to four or five years -- if you've grown the plant from seed. If you're dividing a larger plant to make new plants, the number of dormant buds, or "eyes," on each new division can also influence the length of time before flowers appear. To speed flowering by these new plants, make large divisions with at least three to five eyes each. Planting peonies too deeply can also inhibit flowering, so position new plants or divisions so buds are no more than 1 or 2 inches below the soil surface.
Correct Fertilizer
Although peonies benefit from rich soil that contains a good supply of nutrients, it's important to feed the plants properly and not use too much nitrogen, which can promote growth of stems and leaves at the expense of flowers. For best results, select a granular, low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10, applying it at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of planted area. Apply the fertilizer once per season in the spring, when the plant's stems are about 3 inches tall, working it carefully into the ground. Keep fertilizer away from the plant's stems to prevent burning, and don't disturb tender new shoots; water the fertilizer in well.
Sun and Other Issues
Peonies need abundant light to set flower buds, so pick a planting site that gets at least six or more hours of full sun daily; a spot that gets too much shade can result in few or no flowers. If you have a peony that's recently stopped blooming, this could be because other nearby plants have become large and block the peony's access to light. Prune back surrounding plants as needed to give the peony more light, or consider relocating the peony to a brighter spot. Removing leaves and stems as you tidy the garden during the summer can also contribute to poor flowering because this weakens the plant and interferes with its ability to store energy for the next year. Delay cleanup until fall, when the plant's growth has slowed and foliage is wilted and partly dry.
Disease Control
Sometimes you might see flower buds develop on a peony plant that don't enlarge, and they eventually dry up and drop off the plant. This can indicate the presence of a fungal disorder such as blight or leaf blotch that stops the bud from producing a flower. These diseases might also cause black spots on leaves and stems. They are best prevented by keeping foliage as dry as possible, so water only at the plant's base on sunny days, and cut peonies back to the ground in late fall, removing all plant debris that can harbor fungal microorganisms. Wear gloves and clean pruning blades in rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
Plant Maturity and Depth
A peony might not bloom simply because it's too immature; in that case, all you need to do is wait a while to see flowers. If you've recently planted a new, nursery-grown peony, it may take several years to reach a size and maturity that can support flowering. It could take even longer to see flowers -- up to four or five years -- if you've grown the plant from seed. If you're dividing a larger plant to make new plants, the number of dormant buds, or "eyes," on each new division can also influence the length of time before flowers appear. To speed flowering by these new plants, make large divisions with at least three to five eyes each. Planting peonies too deeply can also inhibit flowering, so position new plants or divisions so buds are no more than 1 or 2 inches below the soil surface.
Correct Fertilizer
Although peonies benefit from rich soil that contains a good supply of nutrients, it's important to feed the plants properly and not use too much nitrogen, which can promote growth of stems and leaves at the expense of flowers. For best results, select a granular, low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10, applying it at a rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of planted area. Apply the fertilizer once per season in the spring, when the plant's stems are about 3 inches tall, working it carefully into the ground. Keep fertilizer away from the plant's stems to prevent burning, and don't disturb tender new shoots; water the fertilizer in well.
Sun and Other Issues
Peonies need abundant light to set flower buds, so pick a planting site that gets at least six or more hours of full sun daily; a spot that gets too much shade can result in few or no flowers. If you have a peony that's recently stopped blooming, this could be because other nearby plants have become large and block the peony's access to light. Prune back surrounding plants as needed to give the peony more light, or consider relocating the peony to a brighter spot. Removing leaves and stems as you tidy the garden during the summer can also contribute to poor flowering because this weakens the plant and interferes with its ability to store energy for the next year. Delay cleanup until fall, when the plant's growth has slowed and foliage is wilted and partly dry.
Disease Control
Sometimes you might see flower buds develop on a peony plant that don't enlarge, and they eventually dry up and drop off the plant. This can indicate the presence of a fungal disorder such as blight or leaf blotch that stops the bud from producing a flower. These diseases might also cause black spots on leaves and stems. They are best prevented by keeping foliage as dry as possible, so water only at the plant's base on sunny days, and cut peonies back to the ground in late fall, removing all plant debris that can harbor fungal microorganisms. Wear gloves and clean pruning blades in rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
0
1
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月08日
Adenium obesum, commonly called desert rose, stands out among other desert plants with its trumpet-shaped flowers and gray, elephantine trunk. It adds a splash of color and visual interest to low-water gardens where few other flowering shrubs thrive. Desert rose requires minimal upkeep and care. The plant must be grown under the right conditions and provided with care early on so it thrives.
Climate and Temperature
Desert rose comes from the arid climates of eastern Africa and the Arabian peninsula. As a result, it tolerates extreme heat well and is intolerant of cold weather. Desert rose performs best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10a through 12, where temperatures stay reliably above 33 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, desert rose blooms and retains its leathery, dark green foliage year-round, but it may enter dormancy if nighttime temperatures dip below 40 F or if daytime temperatures stay below 64 F. Cover outdoor plants if cold weather if forecast and move potted desert roses indoors, if possible.
Sunlight and Soil
Full sun and fast-draining soil are key to successfully growing a desert rose. An unshaded south-facing bed with at least 4 square feet of space is best for garden growing, although the soil must be porous with a moderate nutrient content. Grow desert rose in a container in marginal areas where winter cold snaps are common. Repot the plant every two years into a shallow, slightly larger pot to force vertical growth and show off the plant's unusual swollen trunk. Use a mixture of standard potting soil amended with one-third coarse sand to strike the right balance between nutrient content and drainage. Use a pot with drainage holes.
Seasonal Watering
The watering needs of a desert rose vary significantly throughout the year. Water weekly during the late spring and summer, providing roughly 1 inch of water each time. Increase water by one-half during especially hot or windy weather to prevent dehydration, but always allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings to prevent root rot. The plant needs little to no supplemental water during autumn and winter, especially in years with normal rainfall. Only provide water during the colder months if no rain falls for longer than two weeks. For a pot-grown desert rose, provide just enough water during the winter to keep it from shriveling.
Nutrient Needs
The desert rose is an efficient feeder and it doesn't generally need fertilizer. Its nutrient needs vary according to age and growing conditions. Most desert rose plants grow quickly during their first three to five years and will quickly exhaust the nutrient supply of their soil if it isn't supplemented. A pot-grown desert rose may have a similar issue, although it is ongoing throughout its life. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of 15-15-15 or 7-9-5 ratio fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Water the plant with the mixture every two weeks. Apply the fertilizer solution only during the spring and summer, and always apply it to moist soil to prevent root burn.
Toxic Sap
Desert rose has a few drawbacks. The most significant consideration to make before growing it in your garden is the potential danger of the toxic sap. Desert rose exudes a watery, slightly sticky sap from its leaves, stems and flowers when it is pruned or damaged. The sap contains glycosides that can cause an irregular heartbeat or possibly kill someone who eats parts of the plant. People and pets are both affected by the toxic elements in desert rose sap, so don't grow the plant where curious children or pets play.
Climate and Temperature
Desert rose comes from the arid climates of eastern Africa and the Arabian peninsula. As a result, it tolerates extreme heat well and is intolerant of cold weather. Desert rose performs best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10a through 12, where temperatures stay reliably above 33 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, desert rose blooms and retains its leathery, dark green foliage year-round, but it may enter dormancy if nighttime temperatures dip below 40 F or if daytime temperatures stay below 64 F. Cover outdoor plants if cold weather if forecast and move potted desert roses indoors, if possible.
Sunlight and Soil
Full sun and fast-draining soil are key to successfully growing a desert rose. An unshaded south-facing bed with at least 4 square feet of space is best for garden growing, although the soil must be porous with a moderate nutrient content. Grow desert rose in a container in marginal areas where winter cold snaps are common. Repot the plant every two years into a shallow, slightly larger pot to force vertical growth and show off the plant's unusual swollen trunk. Use a mixture of standard potting soil amended with one-third coarse sand to strike the right balance between nutrient content and drainage. Use a pot with drainage holes.
Seasonal Watering
The watering needs of a desert rose vary significantly throughout the year. Water weekly during the late spring and summer, providing roughly 1 inch of water each time. Increase water by one-half during especially hot or windy weather to prevent dehydration, but always allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings to prevent root rot. The plant needs little to no supplemental water during autumn and winter, especially in years with normal rainfall. Only provide water during the colder months if no rain falls for longer than two weeks. For a pot-grown desert rose, provide just enough water during the winter to keep it from shriveling.
Nutrient Needs
The desert rose is an efficient feeder and it doesn't generally need fertilizer. Its nutrient needs vary according to age and growing conditions. Most desert rose plants grow quickly during their first three to five years and will quickly exhaust the nutrient supply of their soil if it isn't supplemented. A pot-grown desert rose may have a similar issue, although it is ongoing throughout its life. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of 15-15-15 or 7-9-5 ratio fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Water the plant with the mixture every two weeks. Apply the fertilizer solution only during the spring and summer, and always apply it to moist soil to prevent root burn.
Toxic Sap
Desert rose has a few drawbacks. The most significant consideration to make before growing it in your garden is the potential danger of the toxic sap. Desert rose exudes a watery, slightly sticky sap from its leaves, stems and flowers when it is pruned or damaged. The sap contains glycosides that can cause an irregular heartbeat or possibly kill someone who eats parts of the plant. People and pets are both affected by the toxic elements in desert rose sap, so don't grow the plant where curious children or pets play.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月07日
Hosta plants (also known as plantain lilies) are herbaceous perennials that die down in the winter months and reemerge in the spring with new growth. There are a wide variety to choose from. Hostas are shade-loving plants that grow from bulbs (or tubers). Planting them is fairly easy.
Step 1
Purchase hosta bulbs from your local nursery or from online sources (see Resources below). Read all the packaging instructions before deciding where to put your hostas. Some varieties do require some sunshine during the day. Hosta plants with a blue hue generally require more shade than some of the other types. They can be planted at any time of year, but springtime is best, when new roots are being formed.
Step 2
Prepare the planting area soil. Although the hosta is an easy plant to grow and maintain, starting with the proper soil conditions will give your plant an extra boost. The soil should be well drained, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
Step 3
Plant the hosta bulbs 12 inches or more apart and at the ground level where the shoots first emerge. Of course, the root end of the bulb should be placed down into the ground. Gently fill the area surrounding the bulb with soil and then pack lightly at ground level.
Step 4
Water your hosta bulbs often, approximately an inch of water per week. Always check with packaging directions, as some of larger-leafed varieties require more water. Fertilize at 6-week intervals through the spring and summer months with a 10-10-10 fertilizer.
Step 1
Purchase hosta bulbs from your local nursery or from online sources (see Resources below). Read all the packaging instructions before deciding where to put your hostas. Some varieties do require some sunshine during the day. Hosta plants with a blue hue generally require more shade than some of the other types. They can be planted at any time of year, but springtime is best, when new roots are being formed.
Step 2
Prepare the planting area soil. Although the hosta is an easy plant to grow and maintain, starting with the proper soil conditions will give your plant an extra boost. The soil should be well drained, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
Step 3
Plant the hosta bulbs 12 inches or more apart and at the ground level where the shoots first emerge. Of course, the root end of the bulb should be placed down into the ground. Gently fill the area surrounding the bulb with soil and then pack lightly at ground level.
Step 4
Water your hosta bulbs often, approximately an inch of water per week. Always check with packaging directions, as some of larger-leafed varieties require more water. Fertilize at 6-week intervals through the spring and summer months with a 10-10-10 fertilizer.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月07日
If you grow perennials that include either the purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea or Rudbeckia purpurea) or the yellow coneflower (Ratibida pinnata), then you'd probably like to keep the plants blooming as long as possible and also keep them looking neat and tidy. These two plants respond well to pruning early in the growing season to promote bushiness and extend flowering, and they can be trimmed later in the growing season and when fall arrives. Both coneflowers are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9.
Trimming for Bushy Plants
A coneflower plant is usually 2 to 5 feet tall and tends to have a narrow growth habit of 1 1/2 to 2 feet wide. It starts putting out new stems in spring, when weather warms, and doesn't bloom for many weeks, usually opening flowers from midsummer through early fall.
Promote a more bushy, compact growth habit in coneflower plants by trimming back each stem by one-half in late spring; doing so prompts branching of the stems and growth of new stems from each plant's base. Trimming this way early also allows the plants enough time to set flower buds, although their blooms may begin to appear a bit later than normal, usually in September.
You also can extend your coneflower bed's blooming period by cutting back some but not all of your plants in spring, leaving the others not pruned. The latter should bloom at the normal time, starting in midsummer, while the pruned group's flowering will be delayed until early fall.
When trimming, use sharp shears, and clean its blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol before you begin trimming and after each cut. This sterilization helps prevent the spread of plant diseases.
Deadheading for Tidiness
When flowers fade on a coneflower plant, removing the spent blooms -- called deadheading -- helps improve the plant's appearance. Use your fingertips to pinch off flower stems just ahead of the point where a leaf originates on the stem behind the flower, or cut at that point with sterilized shears. The plant may produce new buds after it has been deadheaded, although the second bloom period is usually reduced.
If you want your coneflower planting to expand, allow some self-seeding by leaving a few flowers on the plants to form seeds, which eventually will drop to the ground and produce new plants the next growing season.
Cleaning Up in Fall
Like all herbaceous perennials, coneflowers eventually die back to the ground when winter arrives, leaving dry stems and foliage. You can leave the plants in place during winter, but cutting back their dry upper parts with sterilized tools helps improve the appearance of the flowerbed while getting rid of any remaining insects and their eggs. Remove and dispose of all cuttings when you do fall cleanup. If winter temperatures drop below freezing where you live, then wait until the first frost to cut back the plants to prevent new growth that is easily damaged by cold.
Trimming for Bushy Plants
A coneflower plant is usually 2 to 5 feet tall and tends to have a narrow growth habit of 1 1/2 to 2 feet wide. It starts putting out new stems in spring, when weather warms, and doesn't bloom for many weeks, usually opening flowers from midsummer through early fall.
Promote a more bushy, compact growth habit in coneflower plants by trimming back each stem by one-half in late spring; doing so prompts branching of the stems and growth of new stems from each plant's base. Trimming this way early also allows the plants enough time to set flower buds, although their blooms may begin to appear a bit later than normal, usually in September.
You also can extend your coneflower bed's blooming period by cutting back some but not all of your plants in spring, leaving the others not pruned. The latter should bloom at the normal time, starting in midsummer, while the pruned group's flowering will be delayed until early fall.
When trimming, use sharp shears, and clean its blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol before you begin trimming and after each cut. This sterilization helps prevent the spread of plant diseases.
Deadheading for Tidiness
When flowers fade on a coneflower plant, removing the spent blooms -- called deadheading -- helps improve the plant's appearance. Use your fingertips to pinch off flower stems just ahead of the point where a leaf originates on the stem behind the flower, or cut at that point with sterilized shears. The plant may produce new buds after it has been deadheaded, although the second bloom period is usually reduced.
If you want your coneflower planting to expand, allow some self-seeding by leaving a few flowers on the plants to form seeds, which eventually will drop to the ground and produce new plants the next growing season.
Cleaning Up in Fall
Like all herbaceous perennials, coneflowers eventually die back to the ground when winter arrives, leaving dry stems and foliage. You can leave the plants in place during winter, but cutting back their dry upper parts with sterilized tools helps improve the appearance of the flowerbed while getting rid of any remaining insects and their eggs. Remove and dispose of all cuttings when you do fall cleanup. If winter temperatures drop below freezing where you live, then wait until the first frost to cut back the plants to prevent new growth that is easily damaged by cold.
2
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月05日
Kangaroo paw plants (Anigozanthos spp.) have long green leaves and finely textured flowering stems in tones of green, red or yellow. These perennial Australian natives grow in warm soil with a sandy composition that drains quickly. Although these plants are drought tolerant, summer watering can extend the flowering period. Tall kangaroo paw (Anigozanthos flavidus) is the one you're most likely to find and it grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Choosing a Spot
Kangaroo paws grow in open, sunny sites, where water drains quickly through soil consisting mainly of sand or gravel. The plants are susceptible to frost damage, but planting them close to the south-facing side of a building offers some protection from cold damage in USDA zone 9.
Caring for Paws
Kangaroo paws need little or no fertilizer, but you can improve their growth with a slow-release 12-4-8 fertilizer spread over the soil around the plant at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 square foot. Apply the fertilizer once every three months or according to label instructions. Removing the fans of flowers helps stimulate growth because each fan of flowers only blooms once. Remove the fans when they start to wilt.
Watering Kangaroo Paws
Species of kangaroo paw plants other than tall kangaroo paw are adapted to periods of summer drought and enter a period of dormancy unless they are watered daily. Daily drip irrigation from a soaker hose will prevent kangaroo paw from going dormant in summer but will also shorten its lifespan considerably. Once a kangaroo paw has entered dormancy, watering it quickly rots the plant.
Controlling Snails
Snails can cause serious damage to kangaroo paws. Snails hide during the day and feed at night. Look for cool, dark places beneath landscaping timbers, boards and rocks that could provide shelter for snails near your kangaroo paws and remove them. Eliminating snails' habitat and regularly removing the pests by hand are a simple and effective way to control snails on kangaroo paws. Check your plants for the slimy trails each day until their numbers decline and then continue checking them weekly.
Treating Fungal Diseases
Kangaroo paws are susceptible to ink spot, which is a fungal infection that blackens flower stems and leaves, beginning at the leaf tips. Spacing plants further apart, keeping them in good health and avoiding overwatering help prevent this disease from taking hold in kangaroo paws. You can treat plants that are already infected using a foliar fungicidal spray containing mancozeb. Add 3 teaspoons of mancozeb for every 1 gallon of water you plan to use. Add the fungicide to the sprayer's tank before the water to ensure it mixes properly. Wearing chemical-resistant gloves, pants and a long-sleeved shirt while mixing and spraying will reduce accidental contact with the fungicide. Mancozeb is most effective when used to thoroughly coat foliage of affected plants once every seven to 10 days throughout the growing season.
Choosing a Spot
Kangaroo paws grow in open, sunny sites, where water drains quickly through soil consisting mainly of sand or gravel. The plants are susceptible to frost damage, but planting them close to the south-facing side of a building offers some protection from cold damage in USDA zone 9.
Caring for Paws
Kangaroo paws need little or no fertilizer, but you can improve their growth with a slow-release 12-4-8 fertilizer spread over the soil around the plant at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 square foot. Apply the fertilizer once every three months or according to label instructions. Removing the fans of flowers helps stimulate growth because each fan of flowers only blooms once. Remove the fans when they start to wilt.
Watering Kangaroo Paws
Species of kangaroo paw plants other than tall kangaroo paw are adapted to periods of summer drought and enter a period of dormancy unless they are watered daily. Daily drip irrigation from a soaker hose will prevent kangaroo paw from going dormant in summer but will also shorten its lifespan considerably. Once a kangaroo paw has entered dormancy, watering it quickly rots the plant.
Controlling Snails
Snails can cause serious damage to kangaroo paws. Snails hide during the day and feed at night. Look for cool, dark places beneath landscaping timbers, boards and rocks that could provide shelter for snails near your kangaroo paws and remove them. Eliminating snails' habitat and regularly removing the pests by hand are a simple and effective way to control snails on kangaroo paws. Check your plants for the slimy trails each day until their numbers decline and then continue checking them weekly.
Treating Fungal Diseases
Kangaroo paws are susceptible to ink spot, which is a fungal infection that blackens flower stems and leaves, beginning at the leaf tips. Spacing plants further apart, keeping them in good health and avoiding overwatering help prevent this disease from taking hold in kangaroo paws. You can treat plants that are already infected using a foliar fungicidal spray containing mancozeb. Add 3 teaspoons of mancozeb for every 1 gallon of water you plan to use. Add the fungicide to the sprayer's tank before the water to ensure it mixes properly. Wearing chemical-resistant gloves, pants and a long-sleeved shirt while mixing and spraying will reduce accidental contact with the fungicide. Mancozeb is most effective when used to thoroughly coat foliage of affected plants once every seven to 10 days throughout the growing season.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Hindu rope plants (Hoya carnosa "Krinkle Kurl") earned their common name with their 12- to 15-inch-long stems, which have a pendulous habit, like a length of rope. Usually grown as houseplants, they will also survive outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11. Hindu rope plants look best and live longer when provided with regular care year-round, but those care requirements vary according to the season.
Seasonal Watering
Hindu rope plants tolerate dry soil well, but they will look best if you water them regularly in summer. Water deeply but infrequently during the summer, saturating the soil and letting it dry out in the top one-third of the pot, before watering again. Hindu rope plants go dormant in winter and require far less water. Water every two to three weeks, wetting just the top 1/2 inch of soil with cool water. Always use pots with drainage holes.
Careful Fertilizing
Hindu rope plants are light feeders and will survive without fertilizer if planted in suitably rich, fast-draining growing medium. Because they seldom require repotting and may grow in the same soil for many years, they may need a boost of supplemental nutrients to help keep them growing. Use a balanced fertilizer with an NPK number of 15-15-15 or a low-potassium blooming fertilizer such as 7-9-5. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of filtered water, or according to the label's rate, then water once a month with the solution from midspring until late summer. Do not fertilize in fall or winter.
Pruning and Grooming
Regular pruning during the growing season will help improve the appearance of Hindu rope plants, but it can also cause major problems if not done correctly. Sanitize pruning shears before use to prevent infections. Soak them in household disinfectant for five minutes, rinse them in hot water and wipe them dry. Prune at any time to remove dead, damaged or unwanted growth, or prune flowering stems after the flowers fade. Avoid nicking or cutting the waxy flower clusters -- called peduncles -- because they will continue to produce flowers year after year but will die back if damaged. Also, be aware that Hindu rope plant leaks a latexlike sap when cut, so wear protective gloves and move the plant to prune it if it's on prized furniture.
Problems and Solutions
With good care, Hindu wax plants are seldom troubled by serious issues. Mealybugs are one notable exception and may cause serious damage in high numbers. You'll likely see the cottony masses underneath the leaves, but you might see the individual insects, less than 1/10 inch long, scuttling along the stems. Treat them with a soap solution. Dissolve 2 to 5 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of tap water and put the solution in a spray bottle. Spray the solution liberally on the undersides of the leaves on a cool, overcast day. Repeat the application every two weeks until the problem subsides.
Special Considerations
Tougher than they look, Hindu rope plants adapt to a variety of growing conditions and will survive despite drought, low humidity and neglect, but they may stop blooming regularly. The most common cause of failed blooming is insufficient light. Keep the plants where they will get bright light with direct sun in the morning. Eastern and western exposure is best, although they will also tolerate southern exposure with light shade. Move the plant, if necessary, and watch for new flowers the following spring.
Seasonal Watering
Hindu rope plants tolerate dry soil well, but they will look best if you water them regularly in summer. Water deeply but infrequently during the summer, saturating the soil and letting it dry out in the top one-third of the pot, before watering again. Hindu rope plants go dormant in winter and require far less water. Water every two to three weeks, wetting just the top 1/2 inch of soil with cool water. Always use pots with drainage holes.
Careful Fertilizing
Hindu rope plants are light feeders and will survive without fertilizer if planted in suitably rich, fast-draining growing medium. Because they seldom require repotting and may grow in the same soil for many years, they may need a boost of supplemental nutrients to help keep them growing. Use a balanced fertilizer with an NPK number of 15-15-15 or a low-potassium blooming fertilizer such as 7-9-5. Dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of the fertilizer in 1 gallon of filtered water, or according to the label's rate, then water once a month with the solution from midspring until late summer. Do not fertilize in fall or winter.
Pruning and Grooming
Regular pruning during the growing season will help improve the appearance of Hindu rope plants, but it can also cause major problems if not done correctly. Sanitize pruning shears before use to prevent infections. Soak them in household disinfectant for five minutes, rinse them in hot water and wipe them dry. Prune at any time to remove dead, damaged or unwanted growth, or prune flowering stems after the flowers fade. Avoid nicking or cutting the waxy flower clusters -- called peduncles -- because they will continue to produce flowers year after year but will die back if damaged. Also, be aware that Hindu rope plant leaks a latexlike sap when cut, so wear protective gloves and move the plant to prune it if it's on prized furniture.
Problems and Solutions
With good care, Hindu wax plants are seldom troubled by serious issues. Mealybugs are one notable exception and may cause serious damage in high numbers. You'll likely see the cottony masses underneath the leaves, but you might see the individual insects, less than 1/10 inch long, scuttling along the stems. Treat them with a soap solution. Dissolve 2 to 5 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of tap water and put the solution in a spray bottle. Spray the solution liberally on the undersides of the leaves on a cool, overcast day. Repeat the application every two weeks until the problem subsides.
Special Considerations
Tougher than they look, Hindu rope plants adapt to a variety of growing conditions and will survive despite drought, low humidity and neglect, but they may stop blooming regularly. The most common cause of failed blooming is insufficient light. Keep the plants where they will get bright light with direct sun in the morning. Eastern and western exposure is best, although they will also tolerate southern exposure with light shade. Move the plant, if necessary, and watch for new flowers the following spring.
0
1
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Lantana plants are evergreen shrubs or stemmed perennials that are members of the verbena family. There are over 150 varieties of lantana that are native to the warmer areas of the Americas and Africa. They are perennials in zones 9b to 12 but are often grown as annuals in colder zones. Lantana requires full sun to thrive and is known for its prolific blooms and the bees and butterflies it attracts.
When to Plant
Regardless of whether they are being grown as annuals or perennials, lantana thrive in heat and should be planted in the spring at least two weeks after any danger of frost has passed. Once planted, they often will not grow or bloom much until the soil warms up considerably. It is important that lantana plants have adequate time to establish their root systems if they are being grown as perennials. Otherwise, they will not survive the winter.
Care and Maintenance
Lantana are hardy plants that require very little care and maintenence other than a sunny, hot location and some deadheading to prolong blooming. In some areas, lantana grows so effortlessly that it is considered a noxious weed. This is not only because it can grow invasively but because all parts of the plant are poisonous.
Despite this bad rap, lantana is a mainstay in the garden because it blooms prolifically yet needs very little attention. The plant is drought hardy, requiring only weekly watering when it is blooming. Occasional trimming back encourages a bushier plant and more blooms. After trimming, a light application of fertilizer can help lantana continue to thrive.
If lantana is being grown as a perennial, do not cut it back hard in the fall, as this will compromise its ability to survive. Save hard pruning for spring, when plants should be cut back to 6 to12 inches above ground level and all dead growth and woodiness should be removed.
Problems of Lantana
Powdery mildew is the most common lantana disease; it can be prevented by making sure lantana is planted in full sun. Too much shade will also result in poor blooming.
Too much water, poorly draining soil and overhead watering can cause root rot, so care must be taken to avoid these factors.
Lantana are susceptible to whitefly infestation, mites and lantana lace bugs. Inspect plants frequently for leaf damage or drop. If present, remove affected foliage and apply a commercial insecticide and or fungicide to prevent infestation or infection from spreading.
When to Plant
Regardless of whether they are being grown as annuals or perennials, lantana thrive in heat and should be planted in the spring at least two weeks after any danger of frost has passed. Once planted, they often will not grow or bloom much until the soil warms up considerably. It is important that lantana plants have adequate time to establish their root systems if they are being grown as perennials. Otherwise, they will not survive the winter.
Care and Maintenance
Lantana are hardy plants that require very little care and maintenence other than a sunny, hot location and some deadheading to prolong blooming. In some areas, lantana grows so effortlessly that it is considered a noxious weed. This is not only because it can grow invasively but because all parts of the plant are poisonous.
Despite this bad rap, lantana is a mainstay in the garden because it blooms prolifically yet needs very little attention. The plant is drought hardy, requiring only weekly watering when it is blooming. Occasional trimming back encourages a bushier plant and more blooms. After trimming, a light application of fertilizer can help lantana continue to thrive.
If lantana is being grown as a perennial, do not cut it back hard in the fall, as this will compromise its ability to survive. Save hard pruning for spring, when plants should be cut back to 6 to12 inches above ground level and all dead growth and woodiness should be removed.
Problems of Lantana
Powdery mildew is the most common lantana disease; it can be prevented by making sure lantana is planted in full sun. Too much shade will also result in poor blooming.
Too much water, poorly draining soil and overhead watering can cause root rot, so care must be taken to avoid these factors.
Lantana are susceptible to whitefly infestation, mites and lantana lace bugs. Inspect plants frequently for leaf damage or drop. If present, remove affected foliage and apply a commercial insecticide and or fungicide to prevent infestation or infection from spreading.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum X superbum) are undemanding plants, but pruning encourages more flowers and stronger growth. These perennials grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, and thrive in full sun and well-drained, alkaline soils. They benefit from pruning from mid-summer onward, and dividing plants also encourages healthy growth. Shasta daisies grow 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 1/2 to 2 feet wide, depending on the cultivar.
Fading Flowers
Pruning Shasta daisy blooms as they fade encourages more flowers. Shasta daisies can flower less after they set seed, but removing the flowers before seeds develop prompts the plants to bloom again. Sterilize your pruning shear blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol, and prune Shasta daisies when their petals droop and turn brown. Hold the flower in one hand and feel down to the base of the flower stem with the other hand. Prune the stem at the base, and remove the other fading blooms in the same way. Sterilize your pruning shears again after use.
Summer Pruning
Shasta daises benefit from pruning when the earliest blooms start to fade. Check your Shasta daisies every week, and prune fading flowers until late summer or the end of blooming. If the soil surface is dry after pruning, water plants until the water begins to puddle on the ground, and feed them with a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer, which encourages more blooms. Dilute the product at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water and apply it every 14 days, or dilute and apply the product according to the instructions on the label.
Pruning Clumps
Severely pruning Shasta daisy clumps in early fall can prolong their lives. Shasta daisies are short-lived perennials, but removing their leaves and stems when flowering is over encourages strong growth, which helps plants store energy for winter. Prune Shasta daisies to 8 inches tall, using sterilized pruning shears, and put the trimmings on the compost pile or in the trash. If your plants are too tall and lanky, pinch out the tips of non-flowering stems with your thumb and forefinger in spring to encourage them to grow more compact and bushy.
Lifting and Dividing
Lift and divide Shasta daisies every two or three years to encourage strong, healthy growth and flowering. Dig up a Shasta daisy plant on a cool, cloudy day in winter or early spring by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 6 inches from the plant base and gently levering it up. Do this three or four times around the base until the root ball lifts out of the soil. Divide the plant into three sections by pushing a sharp spade down through the roots, and plant the sections 24 to 36 inches apart at their original growing depths. Water the plants thoroughly and continue to water them regularly so that the soil stays moist.
Fading Flowers
Pruning Shasta daisy blooms as they fade encourages more flowers. Shasta daisies can flower less after they set seed, but removing the flowers before seeds develop prompts the plants to bloom again. Sterilize your pruning shear blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol, and prune Shasta daisies when their petals droop and turn brown. Hold the flower in one hand and feel down to the base of the flower stem with the other hand. Prune the stem at the base, and remove the other fading blooms in the same way. Sterilize your pruning shears again after use.
Summer Pruning
Shasta daises benefit from pruning when the earliest blooms start to fade. Check your Shasta daisies every week, and prune fading flowers until late summer or the end of blooming. If the soil surface is dry after pruning, water plants until the water begins to puddle on the ground, and feed them with a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer, which encourages more blooms. Dilute the product at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water and apply it every 14 days, or dilute and apply the product according to the instructions on the label.
Pruning Clumps
Severely pruning Shasta daisy clumps in early fall can prolong their lives. Shasta daisies are short-lived perennials, but removing their leaves and stems when flowering is over encourages strong growth, which helps plants store energy for winter. Prune Shasta daisies to 8 inches tall, using sterilized pruning shears, and put the trimmings on the compost pile or in the trash. If your plants are too tall and lanky, pinch out the tips of non-flowering stems with your thumb and forefinger in spring to encourage them to grow more compact and bushy.
Lifting and Dividing
Lift and divide Shasta daisies every two or three years to encourage strong, healthy growth and flowering. Dig up a Shasta daisy plant on a cool, cloudy day in winter or early spring by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 6 inches from the plant base and gently levering it up. Do this three or four times around the base until the root ball lifts out of the soil. Divide the plant into three sections by pushing a sharp spade down through the roots, and plant the sections 24 to 36 inches apart at their original growing depths. Water the plants thoroughly and continue to water them regularly so that the soil stays moist.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
Hostas--also called plaintain lilies--are low-growing foliage plants with large, showy leaves that can range in color from deep green through chartreuse into deep blue, with white, lavender or purple blooms in August. There are also variegated cultivars featuring cream, white or yellow centers or borders. Hostas excel as ground cover and add texture and interest to shaded sections of landscapes. Hostas can perform well in Texas as long as they are of the proper cultivar and don't get too much scorching summer sun.
Step 1
Choose vigorous, healthy hostas cultivars with the best chances for growing well in Texas. According to the Texas A and M University Extension, good hostas varieties for Texas gardeners include the green-leafed lancifolia and royal standard cultivars, the blue-leafed blue cadet and blue angel types and the variegated sugar and cream and so sweet varieties. Examine the plant before purchase to make sure it is free of pests and diseases.
Step 2
Choose a planting site in shade or partial sun with afternoon shade and make sure it has rich, moist soil. For more specific recommendations on sunlight, check the cultivar; blue-leaf hostas require more shade than green-leaf varieties, and too much bright sun will bleach out the leaf coloration of the yellow cultivars.
Step 3
Prepare the garden bed in the spring by using a pitchfork to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mixing in a 2 to 4-inch layer of compost.
Step 4
Dig a planting hole twice the size of the container the hosta was sold in, and place the hosta in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Backfill with garden soil and firmly tamp the soil into place but don't press so hard that the soil becomes compacted. Space hostas 36 inches apart if planting more than one. Water your hostas well after planting, and continue to water regularly to keep the soil moist.
Step 5
Apply a 2 1/2-inch layer of mulch to protect the roots, conserve moisture and provide a physical barrier against disease.
Step 6
Fertilize hostas in early spring with a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer in a 10-10-10 NPK formulation. According to the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension, the fertilizer should be applied at a rate of 1/2 pound per 100 square feet.
Step 7
Watch your hostas closely for damage from slugs, to which they are very susceptible. At the first sign of damage use slug bait or make a beer trap by leaving a saucer of beer by the hostas at night; slugs will crawl in and drown.
Step 1
Choose vigorous, healthy hostas cultivars with the best chances for growing well in Texas. According to the Texas A and M University Extension, good hostas varieties for Texas gardeners include the green-leafed lancifolia and royal standard cultivars, the blue-leafed blue cadet and blue angel types and the variegated sugar and cream and so sweet varieties. Examine the plant before purchase to make sure it is free of pests and diseases.
Step 2
Choose a planting site in shade or partial sun with afternoon shade and make sure it has rich, moist soil. For more specific recommendations on sunlight, check the cultivar; blue-leaf hostas require more shade than green-leaf varieties, and too much bright sun will bleach out the leaf coloration of the yellow cultivars.
Step 3
Prepare the garden bed in the spring by using a pitchfork to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mixing in a 2 to 4-inch layer of compost.
Step 4
Dig a planting hole twice the size of the container the hosta was sold in, and place the hosta in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Backfill with garden soil and firmly tamp the soil into place but don't press so hard that the soil becomes compacted. Space hostas 36 inches apart if planting more than one. Water your hostas well after planting, and continue to water regularly to keep the soil moist.
Step 5
Apply a 2 1/2-inch layer of mulch to protect the roots, conserve moisture and provide a physical barrier against disease.
Step 6
Fertilize hostas in early spring with a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer in a 10-10-10 NPK formulation. According to the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension, the fertilizer should be applied at a rate of 1/2 pound per 100 square feet.
Step 7
Watch your hostas closely for damage from slugs, to which they are very susceptible. At the first sign of damage use slug bait or make a beer trap by leaving a saucer of beer by the hostas at night; slugs will crawl in and drown.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月28日
Both ornamental and edible ginger plants add attractive foliage to the garden. Edible ginger is grown for its ornamental features, as well as for its edible roots, or rhizomes, while ornamental ginger is prized for its colorful floral bracts. Ginger is grown from rhizomes, or enlarged roots, regardless of the variety. Whether you are dividing the roots of a crowded plant colony, planting a new plant or moving an existing plant to a new area, proper transplanting is necessary so that the ginger continues to thrive in the garden.
Step 1
Loosen the soil around the ginger plant with a spading fork if you are transplanting it to a new bed or dividing it. Lift the ginger rhizomes out of the soil, leaving any foliage in place. If you are dividing the plant, cut 1- to 2-inch-long pieces of the rhizomes from the outside of the root system, cutting the pieces so that they have at least one bud on them. Leave the rest of the plant in the ground.
Step 2
Prepare a partially to fully shaded garden bed for the ginger. Apply a 2-inch layer of compost over the planting area and work it into the top 6 inches of soil.
Step 3
Plant the ginger rhizomes at a 1-inch depth. Space additional plants 15 inches apart in all directions. Sow the rhizome so that the bud or foliage is on the top.
Step 4
Water the bed thoroughly after transplanting, moistening it to a 6-inch depth. Spread a 1- to 2-inch mulch layer over the bed to help preserve soil moisture between waterings.
Step 1
Loosen the soil around the ginger plant with a spading fork if you are transplanting it to a new bed or dividing it. Lift the ginger rhizomes out of the soil, leaving any foliage in place. If you are dividing the plant, cut 1- to 2-inch-long pieces of the rhizomes from the outside of the root system, cutting the pieces so that they have at least one bud on them. Leave the rest of the plant in the ground.
Step 2
Prepare a partially to fully shaded garden bed for the ginger. Apply a 2-inch layer of compost over the planting area and work it into the top 6 inches of soil.
Step 3
Plant the ginger rhizomes at a 1-inch depth. Space additional plants 15 inches apart in all directions. Sow the rhizome so that the bud or foliage is on the top.
Step 4
Water the bed thoroughly after transplanting, moistening it to a 6-inch depth. Spread a 1- to 2-inch mulch layer over the bed to help preserve soil moisture between waterings.
0
1
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
A hanging basket provides a colorful show of blooms during summer. Use perennial plants for your hanging basket for lasting value, since they start to grow again in spring. Choose different varieties of plants for volume and interest. Use trailing plants to hang over the side of the basket and add foliage plants as a green background to bright colored flowers. Water a hanging basket daily, and dead-head the flowers regularly to ensure a continuous display.
Dianthus
A profusion of summer flowers
Normally known as carnations or pinks, the dianthus comes in over 300 varieties. A good border flower for cutting, several species are compact enough for planting in the center of a basket, providing a profusion of flowers during summer. Available in a range of bright colors, many of the blooms are scented.
Fuchsia
Ballerina-like fuchsia flowers
Available in a variety of species, a trailing fuchsia, such as the white and crimson "Cascade," makes an ideal, colorful plant to grow over the edge of a hanging basket. The different types of fuchsia produce pretty, ballerina-like flowers in shades of pink and white and they are easy to grow all summer.
Geranium
The geranium is a hardy perennial.
Normally used for ground cover in gardens, the ivy-leaved geranium is an excellent trailer that adds depth to a display. With evergreen leaves and delicate pink or lilac flowers, the geranium is a hardy perennial which blooms for most of the summer. Remove flowered stems and old leaves to encourage new growth.
Ivy (Hedera)
Variegated ivy provides a green background.
An evergreen, hardy plant, the ivy comes with a variety of leaf shapes and variegation. It is a perfect perennial for providing a background for more showy colors, as it trails gracefully from hanging baskets. Keep the leaves clipped to maintain its shape. Be careful to wear gloves as ivy sap may irritate the skin.
Petunia
A perennial petunia flowers all season.
The petunia plant is available in a variety of species, from the large-flowered grandiflora to the bushier multiflora. Ranging from pink and red, to violet and white, there is a perennial petunia to suit all color schemes. The "Surfina Series'" of grandiflora petunia has a trailing habit which is ideal for hanging baskets. They are available only as young plants and flower well all season.
Viola
The viola brightens a hanging basket.
The evergreen viola is a fast growing plant that provides masses of pretty flowers during summer in shades of purple, white or lavender. Dead-head to prolong flowering for as long as possible. With rich, velvet colors, the viola x wittrockiana, commonly known as the pansy, brightens up the center of hanging baskets.
Dianthus
A profusion of summer flowers
Normally known as carnations or pinks, the dianthus comes in over 300 varieties. A good border flower for cutting, several species are compact enough for planting in the center of a basket, providing a profusion of flowers during summer. Available in a range of bright colors, many of the blooms are scented.
Fuchsia
Ballerina-like fuchsia flowers
Available in a variety of species, a trailing fuchsia, such as the white and crimson "Cascade," makes an ideal, colorful plant to grow over the edge of a hanging basket. The different types of fuchsia produce pretty, ballerina-like flowers in shades of pink and white and they are easy to grow all summer.
Geranium
The geranium is a hardy perennial.
Normally used for ground cover in gardens, the ivy-leaved geranium is an excellent trailer that adds depth to a display. With evergreen leaves and delicate pink or lilac flowers, the geranium is a hardy perennial which blooms for most of the summer. Remove flowered stems and old leaves to encourage new growth.
Ivy (Hedera)
Variegated ivy provides a green background.
An evergreen, hardy plant, the ivy comes with a variety of leaf shapes and variegation. It is a perfect perennial for providing a background for more showy colors, as it trails gracefully from hanging baskets. Keep the leaves clipped to maintain its shape. Be careful to wear gloves as ivy sap may irritate the skin.
Petunia
A perennial petunia flowers all season.
The petunia plant is available in a variety of species, from the large-flowered grandiflora to the bushier multiflora. Ranging from pink and red, to violet and white, there is a perennial petunia to suit all color schemes. The "Surfina Series'" of grandiflora petunia has a trailing habit which is ideal for hanging baskets. They are available only as young plants and flower well all season.
Viola
The viola brightens a hanging basket.
The evergreen viola is a fast growing plant that provides masses of pretty flowers during summer in shades of purple, white or lavender. Dead-head to prolong flowering for as long as possible. With rich, velvet colors, the viola x wittrockiana, commonly known as the pansy, brightens up the center of hanging baskets.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
Hostas are one of the most popular herbaceous perennial plants grown around the world. They are easy to look after and will tolerate shade. Pruning your hosta will keep it looking good year-round and help to reduce the chances of it being attacked by an infection. Hostas need to be planted in soil which is not going to be allowed to dry out in hot weather as they will quickly wilt when thirsty. Regular watering and a layer of mulch will help to keep them in top condition.
Step 1
Prune the hosta in fall when the leaves have died back. This way the plant will have taken as much energy and nutrients as possible from the leaves for next spring. Use pruning shears to carefully cut the dead leaves back to the base of the stem. Avoid pulling leaves out using your hands as this can tear into the living tissue at the base of the plant, leaving a wound which is open to fungal infection.
Step 2
Divide hostas in spring when you can clearly see where the new shoots are. Use a fork to dig the hosta out of the ground, removing as much soil from the roots as possible. Use pruning shears to remove any dead or unhealthy-looking roots. If left on the plant, this will worsen the plant's health and appearance. Use a spade to slice through the hosta root and replant the clumps at least 1 foot apart to give them space to grow.
Step 3
After pruning and division, apply a layer of mulch around the plant. Mulch can be either well-rotted manure or compost and should be no more then 2 inches thick to discourage slugs from using it as a home. Mulch will feed the plant and help to keep it healthy. Mulch also keeps the soil moist in hot weather.
Step 1
Prune the hosta in fall when the leaves have died back. This way the plant will have taken as much energy and nutrients as possible from the leaves for next spring. Use pruning shears to carefully cut the dead leaves back to the base of the stem. Avoid pulling leaves out using your hands as this can tear into the living tissue at the base of the plant, leaving a wound which is open to fungal infection.
Step 2
Divide hostas in spring when you can clearly see where the new shoots are. Use a fork to dig the hosta out of the ground, removing as much soil from the roots as possible. Use pruning shears to remove any dead or unhealthy-looking roots. If left on the plant, this will worsen the plant's health and appearance. Use a spade to slice through the hosta root and replant the clumps at least 1 foot apart to give them space to grow.
Step 3
After pruning and division, apply a layer of mulch around the plant. Mulch can be either well-rotted manure or compost and should be no more then 2 inches thick to discourage slugs from using it as a home. Mulch will feed the plant and help to keep it healthy. Mulch also keeps the soil moist in hot weather.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
When shopping for new plants, many gardeners keep an eye out for something pretty to grow in that shady area of the garden. Found in nature growing on the forest floor, horny goat weed (Epimedium spp) is worth considering, for its bronze and red-tipped foliage as well as its winter hardiness. Also known as bishop's hat and barrenwort, horny goat weed is a perennial flowering plant, hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 through 8.
Step 1
Add 2 inches of peat moss and 3 inches of compost to the planting soil and mix it into the top 10 inches. This will start your horny goat weed off right by giving it a rich soil in which to grow.
Step 2
Dig planting holes, 8 to 10 inches apart, that are the same depth and three times the width of the nursery pot in which the horny goat weed is growing. Gently remove the plants from the pots and place the roots in the hole. Backfill the hole with soil, pressing lightly around the base of the plants.
Step 3
Water the horny goat weed immediately after planting and keep the soil moist at all times. During hot, dry or windy weather, check the soil more frequently and water if needed.
Step 4
Apply 2 to 3 inches of compost to the top of the soil, completely surrounding the horny goat weed, in early spring.
Step 5
Cut off any winter-damaged foliage and stems in the spring. Don't be afraid to trim the entire plant back to the ground if needed, as it will grow right back.
Step 1
Add 2 inches of peat moss and 3 inches of compost to the planting soil and mix it into the top 10 inches. This will start your horny goat weed off right by giving it a rich soil in which to grow.
Step 2
Dig planting holes, 8 to 10 inches apart, that are the same depth and three times the width of the nursery pot in which the horny goat weed is growing. Gently remove the plants from the pots and place the roots in the hole. Backfill the hole with soil, pressing lightly around the base of the plants.
Step 3
Water the horny goat weed immediately after planting and keep the soil moist at all times. During hot, dry or windy weather, check the soil more frequently and water if needed.
Step 4
Apply 2 to 3 inches of compost to the top of the soil, completely surrounding the horny goat weed, in early spring.
Step 5
Cut off any winter-damaged foliage and stems in the spring. Don't be afraid to trim the entire plant back to the ground if needed, as it will grow right back.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月22日
Most garden plants are either annuals that bloom for one season only, or perennials that blossom once a year for multiple years. It is possible, though, to find flowers that bloom more than once a year. The specific plants that will blossom twice in your garden depend on your climate and growing conditions, but there are a few varieties that can generally be counted upon for biannual blooms.
Encore Azalea
Related to the rhododendron, the azalea is a flowering shrub known as the "royalty of the garden." Encore azaleas bloom more than once a year and grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture planting zones 7 to 10, in slightly acidic soil. Encore azalea cultivars include Autumn Royalty, an azalea/rhododendron hybrid; Autumn Starlight, which has 3-inch white flowers that have pink freckles or stripes; and the Pink Craze, cold hardy, with light pink flowers.
Cattelya Orchid
Most orchid varieties bloom once a year, but the miniature cattelya orchid is notable for blooming twice -- other cattelyas also bloom twice depending on the variety and growth conditions. Speak with your seed supplier or garden expert to find out what will work in your own yard. Note also that other varieties might start blooming twice a year after they have had a few growths. The cattelya grows best in tropical climates.
Bearded Iris
Bearded irises are available in a range of colors, sizes -- under 8 inches to 42 inches tall -- and color patterns (including dark lower petals topped by lighter upper ones, and white petals with dark stippling). The climate needed for a bearded iris depends on the specific variety you are trying to grow, so check carefully with your plant supplier. Note that some varieties start to re-bloom only after a few years
Encore Azalea
Related to the rhododendron, the azalea is a flowering shrub known as the "royalty of the garden." Encore azaleas bloom more than once a year and grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture planting zones 7 to 10, in slightly acidic soil. Encore azalea cultivars include Autumn Royalty, an azalea/rhododendron hybrid; Autumn Starlight, which has 3-inch white flowers that have pink freckles or stripes; and the Pink Craze, cold hardy, with light pink flowers.
Cattelya Orchid
Most orchid varieties bloom once a year, but the miniature cattelya orchid is notable for blooming twice -- other cattelyas also bloom twice depending on the variety and growth conditions. Speak with your seed supplier or garden expert to find out what will work in your own yard. Note also that other varieties might start blooming twice a year after they have had a few growths. The cattelya grows best in tropical climates.
Bearded Iris
Bearded irises are available in a range of colors, sizes -- under 8 inches to 42 inches tall -- and color patterns (including dark lower petals topped by lighter upper ones, and white petals with dark stippling). The climate needed for a bearded iris depends on the specific variety you are trying to grow, so check carefully with your plant supplier. Note that some varieties start to re-bloom only after a few years
0
0
