文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月11日
Although sedums are hardy plants that grow in even harsh conditions with little care, they often become floppy and collapse in the center. Floppiness is especially a problem with tall sedum varieties such as "Autumn Joy," "Black Jack" and "Autumn Fire. A few minutes of routine maintenance keeps sedums bushy and upright.
Causes
Floppiness is normal for tall sedum varieties that aren't routinely pruned; the plant eventually becomes top heavy and collapses under the weight of the blooms. Lack of sunlight and too much fertility in the soil are also common causes of floppiness and caving in at the center of the plant. Sedum is a warm-weather succulent plant that thrives in full sunlight and average or poor soil. Some sedum varieties are tough enough to thrive in dry, gravelly soil.
Pinching
Pinching is a simple method of promoting compact, sturdy, bushy growth on new sedum plants. Pinch the growing tips of young plants when they are about 6 to 8 inches tall. Pinching causes a slight delay in blooming, but the result will be more blooms and healthier plants.
Pruning
While it seems extreme, a good pruning is the best solution for a tall, lanky sedum. If your plants are beginning to look tipsy in late spring or early summer, use your garden shears or clippers to cut the plants to a height of about 6 to 8 inches. The plants may initially look like victims of a bad haircut, but they will soon rebound and look better than ever. Pruning can safely be done every year if needed and is especially effective for sedums grown in shade.
Division
Division is the best fix for an older sedum, especially if the center of the plant looks like it's dying down and becoming woody and unattractive. To divide sedum, dig up the entire plant. Pull the plant apart into smaller plants, each with several healthy roots. If a plant is too large to dig, use a trowel or shovel to cut a section from the side of the plant. Division is a good opportunity to move the sedum to a spot in full sunlight and to discard old, woody sections. To keep sedum healthy, get in the habit of routinely dividing the plant every other year.
Tips
Water sedum sparingly; wet soil may cause sedum to rot and die. In most parts of the country, sedum thrives with no supplemental irrigation but benefits from an occasional light watering during long periods of hot, dry weather. Don't fertilize sedum; fertilizer contributes to rich soil, which can cause floppiness and weak growth.
Causes
Floppiness is normal for tall sedum varieties that aren't routinely pruned; the plant eventually becomes top heavy and collapses under the weight of the blooms. Lack of sunlight and too much fertility in the soil are also common causes of floppiness and caving in at the center of the plant. Sedum is a warm-weather succulent plant that thrives in full sunlight and average or poor soil. Some sedum varieties are tough enough to thrive in dry, gravelly soil.
Pinching
Pinching is a simple method of promoting compact, sturdy, bushy growth on new sedum plants. Pinch the growing tips of young plants when they are about 6 to 8 inches tall. Pinching causes a slight delay in blooming, but the result will be more blooms and healthier plants.
Pruning
While it seems extreme, a good pruning is the best solution for a tall, lanky sedum. If your plants are beginning to look tipsy in late spring or early summer, use your garden shears or clippers to cut the plants to a height of about 6 to 8 inches. The plants may initially look like victims of a bad haircut, but they will soon rebound and look better than ever. Pruning can safely be done every year if needed and is especially effective for sedums grown in shade.
Division
Division is the best fix for an older sedum, especially if the center of the plant looks like it's dying down and becoming woody and unattractive. To divide sedum, dig up the entire plant. Pull the plant apart into smaller plants, each with several healthy roots. If a plant is too large to dig, use a trowel or shovel to cut a section from the side of the plant. Division is a good opportunity to move the sedum to a spot in full sunlight and to discard old, woody sections. To keep sedum healthy, get in the habit of routinely dividing the plant every other year.
Tips
Water sedum sparingly; wet soil may cause sedum to rot and die. In most parts of the country, sedum thrives with no supplemental irrigation but benefits from an occasional light watering during long periods of hot, dry weather. Don't fertilize sedum; fertilizer contributes to rich soil, which can cause floppiness and weak growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月11日
The bright shades of phlox are a welcome sight in the garden after a long winter. Whether it's the first sign of spring creeping phlox or the tall plants of summer, there is a phlox that fits every garden and provides colorful blooms almost all season long. Good for cut flowers, tall garden phlox also attract butterflies and hummingbirds.
Bloom Time
A common spring sight, creeping phlox produces a dense, low-growing mat of color. Blooming from April through to June, creeping phlox is available in a wide assortment of colors including pink, white, mauve, red, blue and purple and makes a striking statement along garden edges. Garden phlox grow to 4 feet of brilliant color and bloom July through to mid-September. A low-maintenance plant, garden phlox is available in bright shades of magenta, white, pink, red and blue.
Planting
All phlox prefer full sun, but will perform well in partial shade. Plant in moist, well-drained soil that has been amended with a few inches of compost. Garden phlox can mature to 2 feet in width at its base, so when planting, give them plenty of room to spread. Dig a hole comparable in size to the container the plant was grown in and ensure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface when planted. Fill in the hole, water the plant well and add a layer of mulch to help maintain moisture and deter weeds. All phlox are hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 4.
Care
Add a layer of compost and mulch each spring to continue to deter weeds and keep the soil moist. Deadhead the faded flowers on garden phlox to promote new and continued blooms and prevent reseeding. Divide the plants every three years and in the fall after the first heavy frost cut tall garden phlox back to 2 inches above the base of the plant. Powdery mildew is a common affliction of phlox, and dividing regularly and providing added air circulation can help reduce the severity of the disease. Powdery mildew will not harm the plant, but it does cause the leaves and stems to develop a grayish white coating, which may turn yellow, and fall off the plant. As a result, mildew-resistant cultivars are becoming available at garden centers.
Phlox History
It was John Bartram in the 1740s who introduced phlox to England where it was then grown in many estate gardens. It became a garden staple in the 1850s as people found more leisure time and gardening became popular with many home owners. In 1837 alternative varieties of phlox began to emerge, and garden phlox remained popular until the 1930s when annuals took over as the garden plant of choice. It wasn't until the 1990s that perennials bounced back onto the gardening scene and the phlox has remained a common site in many perennials gardens ever since.
Bloom Time
A common spring sight, creeping phlox produces a dense, low-growing mat of color. Blooming from April through to June, creeping phlox is available in a wide assortment of colors including pink, white, mauve, red, blue and purple and makes a striking statement along garden edges. Garden phlox grow to 4 feet of brilliant color and bloom July through to mid-September. A low-maintenance plant, garden phlox is available in bright shades of magenta, white, pink, red and blue.
Planting
All phlox prefer full sun, but will perform well in partial shade. Plant in moist, well-drained soil that has been amended with a few inches of compost. Garden phlox can mature to 2 feet in width at its base, so when planting, give them plenty of room to spread. Dig a hole comparable in size to the container the plant was grown in and ensure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface when planted. Fill in the hole, water the plant well and add a layer of mulch to help maintain moisture and deter weeds. All phlox are hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 4.
Care
Add a layer of compost and mulch each spring to continue to deter weeds and keep the soil moist. Deadhead the faded flowers on garden phlox to promote new and continued blooms and prevent reseeding. Divide the plants every three years and in the fall after the first heavy frost cut tall garden phlox back to 2 inches above the base of the plant. Powdery mildew is a common affliction of phlox, and dividing regularly and providing added air circulation can help reduce the severity of the disease. Powdery mildew will not harm the plant, but it does cause the leaves and stems to develop a grayish white coating, which may turn yellow, and fall off the plant. As a result, mildew-resistant cultivars are becoming available at garden centers.
Phlox History
It was John Bartram in the 1740s who introduced phlox to England where it was then grown in many estate gardens. It became a garden staple in the 1850s as people found more leisure time and gardening became popular with many home owners. In 1837 alternative varieties of phlox began to emerge, and garden phlox remained popular until the 1930s when annuals took over as the garden plant of choice. It wasn't until the 1990s that perennials bounced back onto the gardening scene and the phlox has remained a common site in many perennials gardens ever since.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
Sago palms (Cycas revoluta) are desirable tropical plants that grow outdoors in climates that receive no frost and as houseplants and bonsai specimens in cooler regions. Although they are not true palms and are more closely related to pine trees, sago palms look like palms and serve as interesting landscape plants. The 250 species of plants in the Cycad plant family are some of the most ancient seed-producing plant species. When the sago palm reproduces, it forms young plants, called offshoots or "pups" at its base.
Step 1
Harvest pups in late winter or early spring when plants are in their dormant phase. If your mature sago palm has begun to produce new leaves, wait until the following winter before you cut away any young plants from the base.
Step 2
Snap off small pups with your gloved hands if possible. If a pup fails to break off the main plant easily, use a knife or trowel to cut it, taking care not to injure the mother plant. Use a sharp shooter shovel to remove large pups.
Step 3
Snip off all existing leaves from pups after you separate them from the mother plant. Also snip off any existing roots.
Step 4
Rinse off all soil from pups by placing them in a tub of water. Use a soft brush to remove all foreign matter.
Step 5
Place cleaned, stripped pups in a cool, dry place for one week to allow the area where you cut it from the mother plant to dry. Pups will survive several months in a cool, dry place.
Step 6
Make a potting mix from perlite, peat moss and coarse river sand. Plant pups in pots with drainage holes that are only slightly larger than their diameter. Leave the top half of each pup above the soil surface, then water until water runs from the drainage hole(s). Allow the soil to dry before you water your pup again. Keep potted pups in a warm, well-lighted area.
Step 1
Harvest pups in late winter or early spring when plants are in their dormant phase. If your mature sago palm has begun to produce new leaves, wait until the following winter before you cut away any young plants from the base.
Step 2
Snap off small pups with your gloved hands if possible. If a pup fails to break off the main plant easily, use a knife or trowel to cut it, taking care not to injure the mother plant. Use a sharp shooter shovel to remove large pups.
Step 3
Snip off all existing leaves from pups after you separate them from the mother plant. Also snip off any existing roots.
Step 4
Rinse off all soil from pups by placing them in a tub of water. Use a soft brush to remove all foreign matter.
Step 5
Place cleaned, stripped pups in a cool, dry place for one week to allow the area where you cut it from the mother plant to dry. Pups will survive several months in a cool, dry place.
Step 6
Make a potting mix from perlite, peat moss and coarse river sand. Plant pups in pots with drainage holes that are only slightly larger than their diameter. Leave the top half of each pup above the soil surface, then water until water runs from the drainage hole(s). Allow the soil to dry before you water your pup again. Keep potted pups in a warm, well-lighted area.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
You probably know chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum spp.) -- or mums -- as familiar plants covered with colorful flowers that brighten the fall landscape. Although often seen in plant nurseries as container-grown specimens ready to flower in early fall, they are hardy perennial plants. The variety commonly called hardy garden mum (Chrysanthemum morifolium), for example, grows as a perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. When planted in spring within their growing range and given the right kind of summer care, mums become well-established and usually return each spring to bring their bright colors to the fall garden.
Watering and Feeding
If you plant young mums in spring or overwintered mums showing new growth, then keep them well-watered during late spring and into the summer months. Regular supplies of moisture is especially important for them during hot, dry weather. So water the plants deeply whenever the top 1 inch of their soil feels dry to the touch. During dry spells, a good rule of thumb is to water once each week, but water at each plant's base to keep foliage dry and discourage the growth of fungus. Adding 2 or 3 inches of organic mulch such as shredded bark on the soil surface under the plants helps conserve soil moisture, but keep the mulch back a bit from each plant's center to help prevent fungal diseases.
Feeding, or fertilizing, mums during their growing season -- late spring through summer -- also helps them put out strong growth and set lots of flower buds. Use a water-soluble, high-phosphorous fertilizer formula such as 5-10-5 to boost blooming, diluting the fertilizer by mixing 1 tablespoon of it in 1 gallon of water. Apply the fertilizer solution once each month during the growing season for the best results, using it instead of a regular watering.
Pinching Back for Bushiness
If you plant young mum plants in the garden in spring or grow mums from the previous season, then pinch off the tips on their new stems when they are about 6 inches long, using your fingertips or shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of plant diseases. When new side shoots -- laterals -- sprout at each trimmed tip, also pinch them back when they're 6 to 8 inches long. Continue trimming back new shoots as they appear until midsummer. Then let the plants grow without further cutting. This approach produces compact but bushy mums with masses of flower buds.
Avoiding Problems
Mums are usually trouble-free and simple to grow, but they may develop a fungal disease if grown in overly wet conditions. You could see white powder from powdery mildew on their leaves, or gray mold could cause grayish deposits on the leaves and stems. Keeping plants well-spaced for good air circulation and watering each plant at its base helps avoid these fungal problems. If you see signs of fungus, though, it's best to remove the affected parts of the plants, cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged parts. Discard all plant debris on a regular basis because it can harbor fungus. If a fungal problem is severe, remove mulch from under the plants to help the plants dry quickly after rain or watering.
Mums are usually pest-free, but small, mahogany-tinted insects called chrysanthemum aphids might become a problem, sucking plant juices and slowing plant growth. A chrysanthemum aphid nymph is 2/100 to 4/100 inch long; an adult without wings is 6/100 inch long, and an adult with wings can grow almost 1/10 inch long. If you see these pests on a mum, spray the plant with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap concentrate per 1 gallon of water, and repeat the treatment every two weeks as needed.
Watering and Feeding
If you plant young mums in spring or overwintered mums showing new growth, then keep them well-watered during late spring and into the summer months. Regular supplies of moisture is especially important for them during hot, dry weather. So water the plants deeply whenever the top 1 inch of their soil feels dry to the touch. During dry spells, a good rule of thumb is to water once each week, but water at each plant's base to keep foliage dry and discourage the growth of fungus. Adding 2 or 3 inches of organic mulch such as shredded bark on the soil surface under the plants helps conserve soil moisture, but keep the mulch back a bit from each plant's center to help prevent fungal diseases.
Feeding, or fertilizing, mums during their growing season -- late spring through summer -- also helps them put out strong growth and set lots of flower buds. Use a water-soluble, high-phosphorous fertilizer formula such as 5-10-5 to boost blooming, diluting the fertilizer by mixing 1 tablespoon of it in 1 gallon of water. Apply the fertilizer solution once each month during the growing season for the best results, using it instead of a regular watering.
Pinching Back for Bushiness
If you plant young mum plants in the garden in spring or grow mums from the previous season, then pinch off the tips on their new stems when they are about 6 inches long, using your fingertips or shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of plant diseases. When new side shoots -- laterals -- sprout at each trimmed tip, also pinch them back when they're 6 to 8 inches long. Continue trimming back new shoots as they appear until midsummer. Then let the plants grow without further cutting. This approach produces compact but bushy mums with masses of flower buds.
Avoiding Problems
Mums are usually trouble-free and simple to grow, but they may develop a fungal disease if grown in overly wet conditions. You could see white powder from powdery mildew on their leaves, or gray mold could cause grayish deposits on the leaves and stems. Keeping plants well-spaced for good air circulation and watering each plant at its base helps avoid these fungal problems. If you see signs of fungus, though, it's best to remove the affected parts of the plants, cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged parts. Discard all plant debris on a regular basis because it can harbor fungus. If a fungal problem is severe, remove mulch from under the plants to help the plants dry quickly after rain or watering.
Mums are usually pest-free, but small, mahogany-tinted insects called chrysanthemum aphids might become a problem, sucking plant juices and slowing plant growth. A chrysanthemum aphid nymph is 2/100 to 4/100 inch long; an adult without wings is 6/100 inch long, and an adult with wings can grow almost 1/10 inch long. If you see these pests on a mum, spray the plant with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap concentrate per 1 gallon of water, and repeat the treatment every two weeks as needed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月07日
Bamboo plants are woody members of the grass family and consist of vertical, above-ground culms, and underground roots and rhizomes. A successful propagation must recreate all these parts. While reproduction from seed is the easiest way for the species to reproduce, bamboo plants do not produce many viable seeds. Consequently, bamboo is more commonly propagated by vegetative means. There are several types of vegetative propagation, and each have various advantages and drawbacks. Culm cutting, branch cutting, trench layering and marcotting propagation techniques essentially involve cutting a part off a bamboo in order to reroot it.
Culm Cutting
The culm cutting technique is used to successfully propagate most of the economically significant species of bamboo at a much faster rate than seed plantings. Begin by selecting only healthy culms 2 to 3 years in age. Cut the culm at ground level or slightly above the first node. Remove all leaves and small side branches. Use this culm to prepare several cuttings 2 to 3 nodes in length, leaving about 4 inches on each side. Place cuttings in a sandy, starting medium. Bury about 5 inches deep in dirt, totally covering up at least one node. New growth should appear in about 6 weeks.
Branch Cutting
Branch cutting propagation is a process that is very similar to culm cutting, but with branches. It works best with thick-walled bamboo cultivars. Select branches from 1- to 3-year-old culms. With both culm cutting and branch cuttings, rooting hormone applications will help produce better and faster results. Place branches in a growing medium upright or at a 20-degree angle. Special equipment like sand beds and mist chambers are often used to improve sprouting.
Trench Layering
Dig a long trench about 6 inches deep, long enough to accommodate a culm, lying horizontal, approximately 20 nodes long. Select a 2-year-old culm, stripping it of small branches and leaves. Cut through the culm, leaving about two thirds of its diameter. Place it in well-prepared soil, so that buds on the culm are in a lateral position. Shoots should start to appear at each node after about 3 months.
Marcotting
Marcotting is a bamboo propagation technique that is similar to trench layering. However, culms are not cut, but bent to a degree that will allow growers to physically reach plant nodes. In addition, propagation does not take place in the soil; instead it takes place in the air. A mixture of soil and rooting hormones are placed at each node. These materials are wrapped and physically bound to bamboo nodes using coconut fiber. Rooted nodes are later separated from the stem to become independent plants.
Culm Cutting
The culm cutting technique is used to successfully propagate most of the economically significant species of bamboo at a much faster rate than seed plantings. Begin by selecting only healthy culms 2 to 3 years in age. Cut the culm at ground level or slightly above the first node. Remove all leaves and small side branches. Use this culm to prepare several cuttings 2 to 3 nodes in length, leaving about 4 inches on each side. Place cuttings in a sandy, starting medium. Bury about 5 inches deep in dirt, totally covering up at least one node. New growth should appear in about 6 weeks.
Branch Cutting
Branch cutting propagation is a process that is very similar to culm cutting, but with branches. It works best with thick-walled bamboo cultivars. Select branches from 1- to 3-year-old culms. With both culm cutting and branch cuttings, rooting hormone applications will help produce better and faster results. Place branches in a growing medium upright or at a 20-degree angle. Special equipment like sand beds and mist chambers are often used to improve sprouting.
Trench Layering
Dig a long trench about 6 inches deep, long enough to accommodate a culm, lying horizontal, approximately 20 nodes long. Select a 2-year-old culm, stripping it of small branches and leaves. Cut through the culm, leaving about two thirds of its diameter. Place it in well-prepared soil, so that buds on the culm are in a lateral position. Shoots should start to appear at each node after about 3 months.
Marcotting
Marcotting is a bamboo propagation technique that is similar to trench layering. However, culms are not cut, but bent to a degree that will allow growers to physically reach plant nodes. In addition, propagation does not take place in the soil; instead it takes place in the air. A mixture of soil and rooting hormones are placed at each node. These materials are wrapped and physically bound to bamboo nodes using coconut fiber. Rooted nodes are later separated from the stem to become independent plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月07日
Many species of hibiscus plants or shrubs exist, some of which are perennial or hardy and others are tropical hibiscuses that are grown as annuals or as houseplants in nontropical hardiness zones where winters consist of several months of subfreezing temperatures. Hibiscuses are very fast-growing plants, so splitting or dividing them at the root is an effective way to promote new and healthier growth and provide plants with more room to spread out.
Hibiscus Types
Tropical hibiscuses are characterized by their dark-green, almost glossy leaf color and flowers in bright colors such as orange, yellow and red. These hibiscuses are not hardy in places where freezes last longer than a few hours. Hardy or perennial hibiscuses tolerate freezing temperatures, and with the exception of rose of Sharon, a variety of hibiscus that flowers off the previous year's woody growth, these plants die down to the ground at winter.
Why Divide Hibiscuses?
Hibiscuses are fast-growing shrubs known for their deep and extensive root systems. Typical indicators that plants need dividing include sparse foliage at the bottom of plants, bare spots in the center and fewer blooms and smaller flowers. These are indications that the massive root ball is not able to provide sufficient nourishment to all parts of the plant.
When to Divide
The general rule regarding the division of perennials is that perennials that bloom in spring and summer are divided in fall, and perennials that bloom in fall are divided in spring. Most perennials require dividing every three to five years. Hibiscuses are a bit different because in warmer climates, hardy hibiscuses can bloom from spring until frost, and in tropical areas, tropical hibiscuses (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) may bloom year-round. Ideally, you should not divide plants when they are flowering. Most perennial hardy hibiscuses generate new growth in spring, so the best time to divide them is early in spring just after the first new growth emerges. Because rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) plants develop new growth and bloom off the previous year's woody stems, divide these plants in fall once they finish blooming and begin to enter dormancy. Divide tropical hibiscuses when they are not blooming or when dormant when grown as houseplants.
How to Divide
To divide hibiscuses planted in the ground, dig deep into the ground so you can remove the entire root ball from the planting hole. Extensive root systems will likely render container-grown plants root or pot bound. Tap the bottom of the pot to free the root ball from the pot. Once the plants are out of the ground or container, spray the root ball with water to remove as much soil as possible. Use a sharp pruning knife or saw to cut the root ball into smaller divisions. Plant the newly divided plant sections immediately and water deeply. Continue to water regularly to ensure that new divisions establish themselves.
Hibiscus Types
Tropical hibiscuses are characterized by their dark-green, almost glossy leaf color and flowers in bright colors such as orange, yellow and red. These hibiscuses are not hardy in places where freezes last longer than a few hours. Hardy or perennial hibiscuses tolerate freezing temperatures, and with the exception of rose of Sharon, a variety of hibiscus that flowers off the previous year's woody growth, these plants die down to the ground at winter.
Why Divide Hibiscuses?
Hibiscuses are fast-growing shrubs known for their deep and extensive root systems. Typical indicators that plants need dividing include sparse foliage at the bottom of plants, bare spots in the center and fewer blooms and smaller flowers. These are indications that the massive root ball is not able to provide sufficient nourishment to all parts of the plant.
When to Divide
The general rule regarding the division of perennials is that perennials that bloom in spring and summer are divided in fall, and perennials that bloom in fall are divided in spring. Most perennials require dividing every three to five years. Hibiscuses are a bit different because in warmer climates, hardy hibiscuses can bloom from spring until frost, and in tropical areas, tropical hibiscuses (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) may bloom year-round. Ideally, you should not divide plants when they are flowering. Most perennial hardy hibiscuses generate new growth in spring, so the best time to divide them is early in spring just after the first new growth emerges. Because rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) plants develop new growth and bloom off the previous year's woody stems, divide these plants in fall once they finish blooming and begin to enter dormancy. Divide tropical hibiscuses when they are not blooming or when dormant when grown as houseplants.
How to Divide
To divide hibiscuses planted in the ground, dig deep into the ground so you can remove the entire root ball from the planting hole. Extensive root systems will likely render container-grown plants root or pot bound. Tap the bottom of the pot to free the root ball from the pot. Once the plants are out of the ground or container, spray the root ball with water to remove as much soil as possible. Use a sharp pruning knife or saw to cut the root ball into smaller divisions. Plant the newly divided plant sections immediately and water deeply. Continue to water regularly to ensure that new divisions establish themselves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月07日
Coneflowers, or Echinacea purpurea, are perennial flowering plants named for their mounded, cone-shaped flowers. Native to the United States, coneflower varieties typically grow throughout the central and eastern regions of the U.S. Favored for their garden versatility, coneflower cultivars offer blooms in shades of white, pink, purple or yellow. Established coneflowers spread through seeds and clumping.
Versatility
Coneflowers open on tall stems surrounded by rag-leaf foliage. Part of the aster family, these flowers mature up to 4 ft. tall. They tolerate full sun, and thrive in cutting flower gardens with daisies, coreopsis, yarrow and other perennial flowers. Due to their deep tap root, coneflowers adapt to low water or xeriscape gardens. Scatter their seeds with wildflower blends for an easy-care border or fence garden. Coneflowers form a spreading clump that fits well into ornamental grasses in background plantings with shorter perennials, annuals or bedding plants in the foreground. As coneflowers mature and spread, they fill gaps where other flowers die back.
Seeds
Coneflowers spread by seeding. Flowers open in summer and bloom through autumn. The center cone, looking like a small hedgehog, matures and dries with seeds in the cone pods. In autumn, the small dry seeds naturally spill out on the ground, are scattered by wind or fall out as the plant dies back. Birds such as finches eat the seeds and scatter them in bird droppings. The seeds grow quickly in loose soil but also will root in poor soil or cracks in clay soil. The seeds winter over and germinate in spring.
Clumps
Coneflowers grow in clumps, growing outward from the central foliage mound and tap root. Coneflowers spread in clumps up to 2 ft. in diameter. This plant mass looks like one plant and must be divided every three to four years. If the clumping plants are not divided, the overcrowded roots do not reach the soil for enough nutrition and the plant declines. Divide the spreading coneflowers in spring or fall, digging up the clumps and cutting or hand-separating them into smaller clumps. Replant for new coneflowers, allowing room for the new plants to spread.
Considerations
Sometimes coneflowers spread too easily. They scatter hundreds of seeds that take root in rich soil, invading other flower space. Deadhead the flowers and discard the heads to reduce self-sowing. Deadheading also encourages longer blooming seasons. The spreading, shaggy clumps look unkempt in some gardens. Add shorter flowers in front of the coneflowers or plant coneflowers among evergreens like rosemary and lavender plants. The perennial herbs blend with the coneflower clumps, minimizing their untidy look.
Versatility
Coneflowers open on tall stems surrounded by rag-leaf foliage. Part of the aster family, these flowers mature up to 4 ft. tall. They tolerate full sun, and thrive in cutting flower gardens with daisies, coreopsis, yarrow and other perennial flowers. Due to their deep tap root, coneflowers adapt to low water or xeriscape gardens. Scatter their seeds with wildflower blends for an easy-care border or fence garden. Coneflowers form a spreading clump that fits well into ornamental grasses in background plantings with shorter perennials, annuals or bedding plants in the foreground. As coneflowers mature and spread, they fill gaps where other flowers die back.
Seeds
Coneflowers spread by seeding. Flowers open in summer and bloom through autumn. The center cone, looking like a small hedgehog, matures and dries with seeds in the cone pods. In autumn, the small dry seeds naturally spill out on the ground, are scattered by wind or fall out as the plant dies back. Birds such as finches eat the seeds and scatter them in bird droppings. The seeds grow quickly in loose soil but also will root in poor soil or cracks in clay soil. The seeds winter over and germinate in spring.
Clumps
Coneflowers grow in clumps, growing outward from the central foliage mound and tap root. Coneflowers spread in clumps up to 2 ft. in diameter. This plant mass looks like one plant and must be divided every three to four years. If the clumping plants are not divided, the overcrowded roots do not reach the soil for enough nutrition and the plant declines. Divide the spreading coneflowers in spring or fall, digging up the clumps and cutting or hand-separating them into smaller clumps. Replant for new coneflowers, allowing room for the new plants to spread.
Considerations
Sometimes coneflowers spread too easily. They scatter hundreds of seeds that take root in rich soil, invading other flower space. Deadhead the flowers and discard the heads to reduce self-sowing. Deadheading also encourages longer blooming seasons. The spreading, shaggy clumps look unkempt in some gardens. Add shorter flowers in front of the coneflowers or plant coneflowers among evergreens like rosemary and lavender plants. The perennial herbs blend with the coneflower clumps, minimizing their untidy look.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月05日
Grow a container of astilbe (Astilbe spp.), also called false spirea, for a splash of color in a shade garden or on a shady or partly sunny porch or patio. These plants grow anywhere from 6 to 36 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide, so you can find the right fit whether you want a compact variety for a small pot or a sprawling cultivar in a large planter. Astilbe grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, with some variation depending species or cultivar.
Varieties for Containers
You can grow tall varieties for height in patio planters or pick one of the dwarf types for a more compact look.
Compact Cultivars to Grow in Pots
Chinese astilbe 'Pumila' (_Astilbe chinensis_ 'Pumila') grows just 7 to 9 inches tall in part shade to full sun. This cultivar has pink flowers and grows in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Chinese astilbe 'Finale' (_Astilbe chinensis _'Finale') is another pink-blooming, 8- to 12-inch-tall cultivar hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This astilbe prefers part shade to full sun.
Dwarf astilbe 'Sprite' (_Astilbe simplicifolia_ 'Sprite') is also a pink-flowering astilbe ideal for even colder climates. It grows 10 to 12 inches tall in USDA zones 3 to 8.
Full-Size Varieties for Containers
The 'Red Sentinel' cultivar (_Astilbe japonica_ 'Red Sentinel') is a striking, bright-red astilbe that grows 24 inches tall in full shade to full sun. It is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This sprawling cultivar grows 18 to 24 inches wide, making it ideal for large patio planters and half-barrel planters.
The hybrid cultivar 'Bridal Veil' (_Astilbe x arendsii _'Bridal Veil (Brautschler)') is a sprawling white-flowering cultivar that grows 24 to 30 inches tall and wide. It grows in part shade to full sun and is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8.
Find the Right Container
Three things to consider when picking out a pot for astilbe are size, drainage and material:
Look for a planter 16 inches or more around and at least 12 inches deep. Bigger planters, like half barrels and large patio planters, allow you to plant even more astilbe together.
Every container you use must have a drainage hole, and ideally more than one, to allow excess water to escape. Pots without holes in the bottom collect water, drowning the roots over time.
Container material matters. Terra cotta and wood planters allow more air circulation than less porous materials. This helps prevent soggy soil and root rot problems. Metal containers are aesthetically pleasing, but in summer, the excess heat trapped in the metal can overheat the plant roots. Glazed ceramic and plastic work well without getting overly hot but can trap water. If you intend to move the container around, a lighter wood or plastic pot is best.
Potting Soil Solutions
Use a standard quality potting soil to fill the containers and skip the garden soil. If you want to make your own potting soil, try one of these recipes to make a light, porous, well-draining potting mix:
Equal parts peat moss, sand, perlite, compost and composted bark chips.
One part sand, one part perlite and two parts peat moss.
Equal parts pine bark, peat moss and sand.
Light, Water and Fertilizer
Astilbe grow in full shade to sun, depending on the type. Full shade means no direct sunlight, whereas full sun is a spot that gets six hours or more of sun per day. If you're growing a grouping of astilbe together in a large planter, space small varieties 6 inches apart. For larger astilbe, set them 8 to 12 inches apart.
Water when the potting soil dries out 1 inch deep. In general plan to water twice a week, but you may have to water more often in hot weather to keep the soil from drying out and less often in wet weather so that the pots don't get overly saturated. At each session, apply the water slowly until you see it start to leak out the hole in the bottom of the pot.
Fertilize twice a month beginning in the spring when the first new shoots appear. Stop fertilizing through the winter when astilbe go dormant. Use a liquid or water-soluble fertilizer. For each container, use 1 teaspoon of fertilizer mixed with 1 gallon of water.
Varieties for Containers
You can grow tall varieties for height in patio planters or pick one of the dwarf types for a more compact look.
Compact Cultivars to Grow in Pots
Chinese astilbe 'Pumila' (_Astilbe chinensis_ 'Pumila') grows just 7 to 9 inches tall in part shade to full sun. This cultivar has pink flowers and grows in USDA zones 4 through 8.
Chinese astilbe 'Finale' (_Astilbe chinensis _'Finale') is another pink-blooming, 8- to 12-inch-tall cultivar hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This astilbe prefers part shade to full sun.
Dwarf astilbe 'Sprite' (_Astilbe simplicifolia_ 'Sprite') is also a pink-flowering astilbe ideal for even colder climates. It grows 10 to 12 inches tall in USDA zones 3 to 8.
Full-Size Varieties for Containers
The 'Red Sentinel' cultivar (_Astilbe japonica_ 'Red Sentinel') is a striking, bright-red astilbe that grows 24 inches tall in full shade to full sun. It is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This sprawling cultivar grows 18 to 24 inches wide, making it ideal for large patio planters and half-barrel planters.
The hybrid cultivar 'Bridal Veil' (_Astilbe x arendsii _'Bridal Veil (Brautschler)') is a sprawling white-flowering cultivar that grows 24 to 30 inches tall and wide. It grows in part shade to full sun and is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8.
Find the Right Container
Three things to consider when picking out a pot for astilbe are size, drainage and material:
Look for a planter 16 inches or more around and at least 12 inches deep. Bigger planters, like half barrels and large patio planters, allow you to plant even more astilbe together.
Every container you use must have a drainage hole, and ideally more than one, to allow excess water to escape. Pots without holes in the bottom collect water, drowning the roots over time.
Container material matters. Terra cotta and wood planters allow more air circulation than less porous materials. This helps prevent soggy soil and root rot problems. Metal containers are aesthetically pleasing, but in summer, the excess heat trapped in the metal can overheat the plant roots. Glazed ceramic and plastic work well without getting overly hot but can trap water. If you intend to move the container around, a lighter wood or plastic pot is best.
Potting Soil Solutions
Use a standard quality potting soil to fill the containers and skip the garden soil. If you want to make your own potting soil, try one of these recipes to make a light, porous, well-draining potting mix:
Equal parts peat moss, sand, perlite, compost and composted bark chips.
One part sand, one part perlite and two parts peat moss.
Equal parts pine bark, peat moss and sand.
Light, Water and Fertilizer
Astilbe grow in full shade to sun, depending on the type. Full shade means no direct sunlight, whereas full sun is a spot that gets six hours or more of sun per day. If you're growing a grouping of astilbe together in a large planter, space small varieties 6 inches apart. For larger astilbe, set them 8 to 12 inches apart.
Water when the potting soil dries out 1 inch deep. In general plan to water twice a week, but you may have to water more often in hot weather to keep the soil from drying out and less often in wet weather so that the pots don't get overly saturated. At each session, apply the water slowly until you see it start to leak out the hole in the bottom of the pot.
Fertilize twice a month beginning in the spring when the first new shoots appear. Stop fertilizing through the winter when astilbe go dormant. Use a liquid or water-soluble fertilizer. For each container, use 1 teaspoon of fertilizer mixed with 1 gallon of water.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月05日
The term "ornamental grass" covers a wide variety of perennial and annual plants with narrow foliage. Perennial types, such as "Gracillimus" Eulalia grass (Miscanthus sinensis "Gracillimus"), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9, can be split and transplanted in either spring or fall to reduce congestion or to create new plants. The timing of grass splitting or division depends on whether the grass is a cool-season variety, which begins new growth in fall, winter or spring, or a warm-season variety, which begins new growth in spring.
Cool-Season Grass Division
Cool-season ornamental grass should be divided in early fall, after the hot summer is gone. Varieties include "Karl Foerster" feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora "Karl Foerster"), hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9 and featuring pink-purple flower stalks and an arching habit. Another cool-season ornamental grass is low-growing fescue, such as the "Elijah Blue" cultivar of blue fescue (Festuca glauca "Elijah Blue"). Fescues generally top out at about 12 inches tall. "Elijah Blue" is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8 and features narrow, blue-green leaves.
Warm-Season Grass Division
Very early spring, when the ground becomes workable but before or just as the grass' new growth starts, is the time to divide a warm-season ornamental grass. Varieties include big blue stem (Andropogon gerardii), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9, tops out at 6 feet tall and changes color as the growing season progresses. Another common warm-season variety is switch grass (Panicum virgatum), a moisture-lover with a columnar form. Switch grass is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
Division and Replant Techniques
Whether division takes place in early spring or early fall, watering the ornamental grass' soil thoroughly about one hour before dividing the plant softens the ground. Cut the plant's foliage to about 6 inches tall. Using a sharp spade, dig all the way around the grass clump, and lift it from the ground. Divide the clump into two or more pieces by using the spade, a sharp garden knife or a small axe to separate roots. One of the pieces can be replanted in the original hole, and other pieces can be planted in other locations. The plants should be at the same soil depth at which they grew previously. Fill the remainder of each planting hole with soil, and firm the soil around the plants.
Division Considerations
Many ornamental grasses, especially large types, should be divided every three or four years. If a clump has not been divided in many years, then its middle portion may be dead. If that is the case, dig up the entire clump, but take divisions from the healthy root areas, discarding the dead middle section. Extremely hot weather makes division hard on a plant and the task of dividing the plant hard on the gardener. If the weather is very hot, wait until temperatures cool before dividing grass.
Cool-Season Grass Division
Cool-season ornamental grass should be divided in early fall, after the hot summer is gone. Varieties include "Karl Foerster" feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora "Karl Foerster"), hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9 and featuring pink-purple flower stalks and an arching habit. Another cool-season ornamental grass is low-growing fescue, such as the "Elijah Blue" cultivar of blue fescue (Festuca glauca "Elijah Blue"). Fescues generally top out at about 12 inches tall. "Elijah Blue" is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8 and features narrow, blue-green leaves.
Warm-Season Grass Division
Very early spring, when the ground becomes workable but before or just as the grass' new growth starts, is the time to divide a warm-season ornamental grass. Varieties include big blue stem (Andropogon gerardii), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9, tops out at 6 feet tall and changes color as the growing season progresses. Another common warm-season variety is switch grass (Panicum virgatum), a moisture-lover with a columnar form. Switch grass is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
Division and Replant Techniques
Whether division takes place in early spring or early fall, watering the ornamental grass' soil thoroughly about one hour before dividing the plant softens the ground. Cut the plant's foliage to about 6 inches tall. Using a sharp spade, dig all the way around the grass clump, and lift it from the ground. Divide the clump into two or more pieces by using the spade, a sharp garden knife or a small axe to separate roots. One of the pieces can be replanted in the original hole, and other pieces can be planted in other locations. The plants should be at the same soil depth at which they grew previously. Fill the remainder of each planting hole with soil, and firm the soil around the plants.
Division Considerations
Many ornamental grasses, especially large types, should be divided every three or four years. If a clump has not been divided in many years, then its middle portion may be dead. If that is the case, dig up the entire clump, but take divisions from the healthy root areas, discarding the dead middle section. Extremely hot weather makes division hard on a plant and the task of dividing the plant hard on the gardener. If the weather is very hot, wait until temperatures cool before dividing grass.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月02日
Elephant ear plants (Colocasia esculenta) are mostly grown for their showy foliage as they have massive, ornamental leaves. Common names for elephant ear include taro, dasheen and coco yam. Elephant ears are generally planted in spring, once all danger of frost has passed, and only grow outdoors year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b through 11. They can flower from late spring to early fall. Elephant ears can be invasive and are on invasive plants databases for Texas and Florida.
Bloom Period
Elephant ears may bloom from spring through to summer with inconspicuous green flowers on long stalks. The flower has a modified leaf or spathe that covers the stalk, while the stalk consists of a cluster of tiny flowers. Flowering depends upon growing conditions and elephant ear plants may not bloom every year. Their showy foliage make up for their lack of attractive flowers.
Foliage Color
Elephant ears will grow up to 5 feet tall. The various cultivars bring a range of colors. "Black Magic" has burgundy or black foliage, "Chicago Harlequin" produces dark green foliage contrasted with random blotches of lighter green and the green foliage of "Illustris" has lime green veins and edging and is overlaid with black.
Pigsqueak
Also sometimes called elephant ears, pigsqueak (Bergenia cordifolia) grows in damp, shady areas. It produces tall panicles of pink flowers in spring. These plants grow up to 2 feet tall and are renowned for the vibrant fall colors. Pigsqueak grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 8.
Pigsqueak Colors
Pigsqueak cultivars offer a range of spring bloom colors. "Silver Light" has white blooms, "Ballawlay" produces red flowers, while "Evening Glow's" flowers are magenta. The common variety blooms in pink.
Bloom Period
Elephant ears may bloom from spring through to summer with inconspicuous green flowers on long stalks. The flower has a modified leaf or spathe that covers the stalk, while the stalk consists of a cluster of tiny flowers. Flowering depends upon growing conditions and elephant ear plants may not bloom every year. Their showy foliage make up for their lack of attractive flowers.
Foliage Color
Elephant ears will grow up to 5 feet tall. The various cultivars bring a range of colors. "Black Magic" has burgundy or black foliage, "Chicago Harlequin" produces dark green foliage contrasted with random blotches of lighter green and the green foliage of "Illustris" has lime green veins and edging and is overlaid with black.
Pigsqueak
Also sometimes called elephant ears, pigsqueak (Bergenia cordifolia) grows in damp, shady areas. It produces tall panicles of pink flowers in spring. These plants grow up to 2 feet tall and are renowned for the vibrant fall colors. Pigsqueak grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 8.
Pigsqueak Colors
Pigsqueak cultivars offer a range of spring bloom colors. "Silver Light" has white blooms, "Ballawlay" produces red flowers, while "Evening Glow's" flowers are magenta. The common variety blooms in pink.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月29日
Philodendron is a genus of evergreen tropical plants most commonly kept as conservatory or house plants. Pruning requirements for tropical plants, including philodendrons, are minimal except for when leaves die back due to age or damage. Two main types of philodendron growth forms exist: trailing, also known as vining, and clumping, also called self-heading. Prune philodendrons sparingly when needed to preserve their natural form.
Self-Heading Philodendron
Step 1
Prune out individual leaves that have died or become discolored or diseased. Sever the leaf at the base of the stem down to the crown of the plant just above the soil line.
Step 2
Reduce the size or spread of the plants by removing the longest, oldest and most outsize leaves and stems down to the crown. Distribute these cuts evenly throughout the plant to maintain the natural form.
Step 3
Remove any stems that have lost their leaves. Sever the stem stump down to the crown of the plant, just above the soil line.
Vining Philodendron
Step 1
Snip off any dead, discolored, diseased or otherwise unsightly leaves that appear on the vines. Remove either an individual leaf or whole sections of vine as needed to keep the plant looking green and tidy.
Step 2
Cut back defoliated vines to just below a healthy leaf because the bare vines will likely not regenerate new growth once lost.
Step 3
Prune away leaves on the vines that have become brown or yellow due to over-watering or lack of sufficient sunlight. Once this occurs, the leaves will not be restored to a deep green hue. Remove the leaves at the base of the stem. If the vine tip or a section of vine is damaged, cut back to a healthy green leaf node just above the damaged tissues.
Step 4
Cut back the tips of the vines as desired to bring the plant back within preferred bounds and reduce size and spread.
Self-Heading Philodendron
Step 1
Prune out individual leaves that have died or become discolored or diseased. Sever the leaf at the base of the stem down to the crown of the plant just above the soil line.
Step 2
Reduce the size or spread of the plants by removing the longest, oldest and most outsize leaves and stems down to the crown. Distribute these cuts evenly throughout the plant to maintain the natural form.
Step 3
Remove any stems that have lost their leaves. Sever the stem stump down to the crown of the plant, just above the soil line.
Vining Philodendron
Step 1
Snip off any dead, discolored, diseased or otherwise unsightly leaves that appear on the vines. Remove either an individual leaf or whole sections of vine as needed to keep the plant looking green and tidy.
Step 2
Cut back defoliated vines to just below a healthy leaf because the bare vines will likely not regenerate new growth once lost.
Step 3
Prune away leaves on the vines that have become brown or yellow due to over-watering or lack of sufficient sunlight. Once this occurs, the leaves will not be restored to a deep green hue. Remove the leaves at the base of the stem. If the vine tip or a section of vine is damaged, cut back to a healthy green leaf node just above the damaged tissues.
Step 4
Cut back the tips of the vines as desired to bring the plant back within preferred bounds and reduce size and spread.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月29日
If you enjoy growing tropical plants with colorful flowers, the plumeria plant (Plumeris spp.) could be an excellent choice for your garden or as a small indoor tree. Also called the frangipani or temple tree, the plant grows outdoors year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. You can help keep a plumeria tree in good shape and promote plenty of flowers by pruning it regularly.
The Best Method
A plumeria tree is naturally short and stocky, developing a broad crown and reaching 12 feet or more when it's 6 years old, although this can vary with the variety. Some species, such as West Indian Jasmine (Plumeria alba), which grows in USDA zones 10 through 12, can grow 40 feet tall a if left unpruned. When cutting back a plumeria, use a sharp knife or pruning shears. For a tall plumeria, you might need a pruning saw mounted on a tall pole. Always make cuts at an angle so water won't collect in the cut end of the branch and encourage fungal disease. It's also important to prevent spread of diseases by disinfecting your pruning blades after each cut, wiping them well with rubbing alcohol or dipping them in a container of rubbing alcohol.
Timing
You can prune a plumeria tree at any time, but pruning an actively growing tree can leave unsightly branch stubs until new growth starts. The plant slows its growth in winter, dropping its leaves and looking bare until new ones appear in spring. During this dormant season, it's easy to see the tree's basic form, making pruning decisions easier. To allow the tree to set blossoms for the following season, prune lightly so that enough young growth remains to produce new flowers in spring. To keep the tree within bounds, you can repeat light winter pruning every year or two until the tree reaches a suitable size for its location.
The Overall Plan
If your plumeria is just few years old, you can help control its size in future years by heading it back every year or two, cutting healthy branches back by about one-third. This also encourages lots of new branches that help fill in the tree's shape as it grows and eventually produce flower buds. An older tree that's outgrown its space may respond well to a method called pollarding, which involves removing the upper branches from a mature tree to promote a dense canopy of foliage. This method reduces the tree's size and can keep a mature tree at a predetermined height. Regardless of the tree's age, how often you prune depends somewhat on the tree's response. If there's abundant new growth the following year, you can prune yearly, but if growth appears slowly, it's a good idea to skip a year or two between prunings.
After Pruning
You can help stimulate a newly pruned plumeria to put out healthy growth by fertilizing it regularly during its growing season. Use a granular, 10-30-10 formula, applied at the rate of 1 pound per 1 inch of trunk diameter. Spread the fertilizer under the tree evenly, scratching it into the soil and distributing it to about 2 feet beyond its drip line, which is the outermost area where foliage extends over the ground. Providing adequate water also supports new growth, especially during summer dry spells -- supply enough water to keep the soil moist but not soggy, generally about 1/2 to 1 inch weekly.
The Best Method
A plumeria tree is naturally short and stocky, developing a broad crown and reaching 12 feet or more when it's 6 years old, although this can vary with the variety. Some species, such as West Indian Jasmine (Plumeria alba), which grows in USDA zones 10 through 12, can grow 40 feet tall a if left unpruned. When cutting back a plumeria, use a sharp knife or pruning shears. For a tall plumeria, you might need a pruning saw mounted on a tall pole. Always make cuts at an angle so water won't collect in the cut end of the branch and encourage fungal disease. It's also important to prevent spread of diseases by disinfecting your pruning blades after each cut, wiping them well with rubbing alcohol or dipping them in a container of rubbing alcohol.
Timing
You can prune a plumeria tree at any time, but pruning an actively growing tree can leave unsightly branch stubs until new growth starts. The plant slows its growth in winter, dropping its leaves and looking bare until new ones appear in spring. During this dormant season, it's easy to see the tree's basic form, making pruning decisions easier. To allow the tree to set blossoms for the following season, prune lightly so that enough young growth remains to produce new flowers in spring. To keep the tree within bounds, you can repeat light winter pruning every year or two until the tree reaches a suitable size for its location.
The Overall Plan
If your plumeria is just few years old, you can help control its size in future years by heading it back every year or two, cutting healthy branches back by about one-third. This also encourages lots of new branches that help fill in the tree's shape as it grows and eventually produce flower buds. An older tree that's outgrown its space may respond well to a method called pollarding, which involves removing the upper branches from a mature tree to promote a dense canopy of foliage. This method reduces the tree's size and can keep a mature tree at a predetermined height. Regardless of the tree's age, how often you prune depends somewhat on the tree's response. If there's abundant new growth the following year, you can prune yearly, but if growth appears slowly, it's a good idea to skip a year or two between prunings.
After Pruning
You can help stimulate a newly pruned plumeria to put out healthy growth by fertilizing it regularly during its growing season. Use a granular, 10-30-10 formula, applied at the rate of 1 pound per 1 inch of trunk diameter. Spread the fertilizer under the tree evenly, scratching it into the soil and distributing it to about 2 feet beyond its drip line, which is the outermost area where foliage extends over the ground. Providing adequate water also supports new growth, especially during summer dry spells -- supply enough water to keep the soil moist but not soggy, generally about 1/2 to 1 inch weekly.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月29日
The process of deadheading -- or removing the wilted blooms from a flowering plant -- focuses the plant's energy into healthy root and leaf growth instead of seed production. In some plants, it also encourages the plants to bloom again. The various coneflower species respond well to deadheading, but there are also good reasons for not deadheading coneflowers.
Coneflower Blooms
Coneflowers all belong to the plant family, Asteraceae, and the blooms are similar enough they can all be deadheaded the same way, or left on the plant for the same reasons. Not every type of coneflower blooms at the same time, so be on the lookout throughout the summer and fall to deadhead in a timely manner.
The common name "coneflower" applies to several genera, including Echinacea, Rudbeckia and Ratibida. All have a cone-shaped flower center, though plants in the Echinacea genus are the ones most often referred to as "coneflowers."
Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, has purple-pink petals around an orange center. It grows 2 to 5 feet tall, and blooms all summer
Yellow coneflower (Echinacea paradoxa), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, grows 2 to 3 feet tall. It blooms all summer, and has thin yellow petals around a brown center.
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida), which grows in USDA zones 3 through 9, is a sturdy perennial that grows 2 to 3 feet tall and blooms midsummer through fall. The daisylike yellow flowers have a black center.
Gray-head coneflower (Ratibida pinnata), which grows in USDA zones 3 through 8, grows 3 to 5 feet tall and blooms in the summer. It has thin yellow flower petals that fold back from a 1-inch gray center.
Mexican hat plant (Ratibida columnifera), which grows in USDA zones 4 through 9, is also called long-headed coneflower because the flower center can reach 2 inches high. It grows 1 to 3 feet tall, has yellow flower petals and blooms in the summer and early fall.
Missouri coneflower (Rudbeckia missouriensis), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, grows 2 to 3 feet tall and blooms summer through fall. It has orange-yellow flowers with a black center.
Reasons to Deadhead
Deadheading coneflowers can encourage rebloom. Purple coneflower and yellow coneflower will rebloom without deadheading, but black-eyed Susan must be deadheaded if you want reliable repeat blooming all summer and into fall.
Removing spent blooms also prevents self-seeding. If you don't want the plants to spread throughout the garden, make sure you deadhead plants before the seed heads ripen. Removing the flowers as soon as they are finished blooming also keeps the garden looking neat and tidy.
Leaving the Seeds
If you decide not to deadhead coneflowers, the seeds will attract birds to the garden. The seeds that birds don't eat fall to the ground and easily sprout to create more plants. Self-seeding can result in a large number of seedlings in the spring, which will start blooming after about two years.
The flower center of the coneflower is where seeds develop. After the petals fall off, these seed heads often remain upright in the garden throughout all or part of the winter. This provides winter interest in the garden in the form of dark-colored cone-shaped seed heads, and birds that are attracted to the seeds.
Coneflower Blooms
Coneflowers all belong to the plant family, Asteraceae, and the blooms are similar enough they can all be deadheaded the same way, or left on the plant for the same reasons. Not every type of coneflower blooms at the same time, so be on the lookout throughout the summer and fall to deadhead in a timely manner.
The common name "coneflower" applies to several genera, including Echinacea, Rudbeckia and Ratibida. All have a cone-shaped flower center, though plants in the Echinacea genus are the ones most often referred to as "coneflowers."
Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, has purple-pink petals around an orange center. It grows 2 to 5 feet tall, and blooms all summer
Yellow coneflower (Echinacea paradoxa), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, grows 2 to 3 feet tall. It blooms all summer, and has thin yellow petals around a brown center.
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida), which grows in USDA zones 3 through 9, is a sturdy perennial that grows 2 to 3 feet tall and blooms midsummer through fall. The daisylike yellow flowers have a black center.
Gray-head coneflower (Ratibida pinnata), which grows in USDA zones 3 through 8, grows 3 to 5 feet tall and blooms in the summer. It has thin yellow flower petals that fold back from a 1-inch gray center.
Mexican hat plant (Ratibida columnifera), which grows in USDA zones 4 through 9, is also called long-headed coneflower because the flower center can reach 2 inches high. It grows 1 to 3 feet tall, has yellow flower petals and blooms in the summer and early fall.
Missouri coneflower (Rudbeckia missouriensis), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 8, grows 2 to 3 feet tall and blooms summer through fall. It has orange-yellow flowers with a black center.
Reasons to Deadhead
Deadheading coneflowers can encourage rebloom. Purple coneflower and yellow coneflower will rebloom without deadheading, but black-eyed Susan must be deadheaded if you want reliable repeat blooming all summer and into fall.
Removing spent blooms also prevents self-seeding. If you don't want the plants to spread throughout the garden, make sure you deadhead plants before the seed heads ripen. Removing the flowers as soon as they are finished blooming also keeps the garden looking neat and tidy.
Leaving the Seeds
If you decide not to deadhead coneflowers, the seeds will attract birds to the garden. The seeds that birds don't eat fall to the ground and easily sprout to create more plants. Self-seeding can result in a large number of seedlings in the spring, which will start blooming after about two years.
The flower center of the coneflower is where seeds develop. After the petals fall off, these seed heads often remain upright in the garden throughout all or part of the winter. This provides winter interest in the garden in the form of dark-colored cone-shaped seed heads, and birds that are attracted to the seeds.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月26日
Description: This plant is an annual or biennial about 1-3' tall. Small plants are branched sparingly, while large plants branch abundantly in the upper half. The stems are gray-green or gray-blue, terete, glabrous, and glaucous. Plants that begin growth during the fall will overwinter as low rosettes with basal leaves, while plants that begin growth during the spring bolt upward almost immediately. Both the basal and lower leaves are up to 10" long and 2" across, but they are usually smaller than this. They are oblanceolate in overall shape and strongly pinnatifid with undulate or bluntly dentate margins; their terminal lobes are the largest in size. Both types of leaves have stout petioles. In contrast, the middle to upper leaves are smaller in size, lanceolate-oblong in shape, with margins that are smooth or bluntly dentate. These latter leaves have bases that usually clasp their stems, although some of them may be sessile. Like the stems, these various leaves are grey-green or blue-green, glaucous, and usually glabrous – occasionally the basal leaves have short bristly hairs. The lower, middle, and upper leaves are alternate.
The upper stems terminate in racemes of bright yellow flowers. The flowers bloom toward the apex of each raceme, while the seedpods develop below. Each flower is 1/3–1/2" (8-12 mm.) across, consisting of 4 yellow petals, 4 green to yellow sepals, several stamens, and a pistil with a single style. The sepals are narrowly lanceolate and hairless. The blooming period can occur anytime between late spring to early fall; it usually lasts about 1 month for a small colony of plants. Each flower is replaced by an ascending cylindrical seedpod (silique) that is 1¼–2¼" long at maturity and hairless. Each seedpod terminates in a seedless beak that is about one-fourth its entire length. At the base of each seedpod, there is a stout hairless pedicel about ½" long that is widely spreading to ascending. Each seedpod divides into 2 valves to release its small globoid seeds. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: Rape Mustard prefers full sunlight, moist to dry conditions, and a neutral to alkaline soil containing loam, clay-loam, or gravelly material. The size of individual plants varies greatly according to moisture conditions and soil fertility.
Range & Habitat: Rape Mustard is occasional in most areas of Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is native to Eurasia. Typical habitats include cropland, weedy fields, roadsides, gravelly areas along railroads, and waste areas. This plant is usually found in areas with a history of disturbance where there is scant ground vegetation.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts small bees and White butterflies (Pieridae); some bees may collect pollen from the flowers as well. The caterpillars of the butterflies Pieris napi (Mustard White), Pieris rapae (Cabbage White), and Pontia protodice (Checkered White) feed on Brassica spp. (Mustards), as do the caterpillars of the moths Evergestis pallidata (Purple-Backed Cabbageworm) and Plutella xylostella (Diamondback Moth). Several species of flea beetles (primarily Phyllotreta spp.), Murgantia histrionica (Harlequin Bug), and Adelphocoris superbus (Meadow Plant Bug) also feed on the foliage of these plants. The oily seeds of Rape Mustard and similar species are eaten by the Mourning Dove and Ring-Necked Pheasant, and the mild-tasting foliage can be eaten in limited amounts by livestock and other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: A gravelly area along a railroad in Savoy, Illinois.
Comments: This is another weedy mustard species from Eurasia. It should not be confused with the agricultural crop, Oilseed Rape (or Canola), which is Brassica napus oleifera, or one of the cultivated vegetables. Rape Mustard has several common names, including Field Mustard and Birdseed Rape. In general, Rape Mustard can be distinguished from other Brassica spp. (Mustards) by its glaucous gray-blue or gray-green foliage and its clasping alternate leaves. A similar species, Brassica oleracea (Wild Cabbage), shares these characteristics, but this latter species has larger flowers (exceeding ½" across) and it is quite rare in Illinois. Oilseed Rape has foliage that is more green than either Rape Mustard or Wild Cabbage, and its foliage isn't glaucous.
The upper stems terminate in racemes of bright yellow flowers. The flowers bloom toward the apex of each raceme, while the seedpods develop below. Each flower is 1/3–1/2" (8-12 mm.) across, consisting of 4 yellow petals, 4 green to yellow sepals, several stamens, and a pistil with a single style. The sepals are narrowly lanceolate and hairless. The blooming period can occur anytime between late spring to early fall; it usually lasts about 1 month for a small colony of plants. Each flower is replaced by an ascending cylindrical seedpod (silique) that is 1¼–2¼" long at maturity and hairless. Each seedpod terminates in a seedless beak that is about one-fourth its entire length. At the base of each seedpod, there is a stout hairless pedicel about ½" long that is widely spreading to ascending. Each seedpod divides into 2 valves to release its small globoid seeds. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: Rape Mustard prefers full sunlight, moist to dry conditions, and a neutral to alkaline soil containing loam, clay-loam, or gravelly material. The size of individual plants varies greatly according to moisture conditions and soil fertility.
Range & Habitat: Rape Mustard is occasional in most areas of Illinois (see Distribution Map). It is native to Eurasia. Typical habitats include cropland, weedy fields, roadsides, gravelly areas along railroads, and waste areas. This plant is usually found in areas with a history of disturbance where there is scant ground vegetation.
Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts small bees and White butterflies (Pieridae); some bees may collect pollen from the flowers as well. The caterpillars of the butterflies Pieris napi (Mustard White), Pieris rapae (Cabbage White), and Pontia protodice (Checkered White) feed on Brassica spp. (Mustards), as do the caterpillars of the moths Evergestis pallidata (Purple-Backed Cabbageworm) and Plutella xylostella (Diamondback Moth). Several species of flea beetles (primarily Phyllotreta spp.), Murgantia histrionica (Harlequin Bug), and Adelphocoris superbus (Meadow Plant Bug) also feed on the foliage of these plants. The oily seeds of Rape Mustard and similar species are eaten by the Mourning Dove and Ring-Necked Pheasant, and the mild-tasting foliage can be eaten in limited amounts by livestock and other mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: A gravelly area along a railroad in Savoy, Illinois.
Comments: This is another weedy mustard species from Eurasia. It should not be confused with the agricultural crop, Oilseed Rape (or Canola), which is Brassica napus oleifera, or one of the cultivated vegetables. Rape Mustard has several common names, including Field Mustard and Birdseed Rape. In general, Rape Mustard can be distinguished from other Brassica spp. (Mustards) by its glaucous gray-blue or gray-green foliage and its clasping alternate leaves. A similar species, Brassica oleracea (Wild Cabbage), shares these characteristics, but this latter species has larger flowers (exceeding ½" across) and it is quite rare in Illinois. Oilseed Rape has foliage that is more green than either Rape Mustard or Wild Cabbage, and its foliage isn't glaucous.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月23日
Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea variation gemmifera) are hardy biennial plants that typically are grown as annuals and do well in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10. Usually reaching 2 to 3 feet tall, the cool-weather plants thrive in air temperatures ranging from 45 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They can withstand frost, which reportedly makes the flavor of their vegetable portions -- sprouts -- even sweeter. The sprouts, which resemble tiny cabbages, usually take 80 to 100 days to mature. Harvest them when they are about 1 inch in diameter.
Growing the Plants from Seeds
Brussels sprout seeds should be started indoors about six to eight weeks before the area's average last frost date. Sow the seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in potting mix or nutrient-rich soil. The seedlings are ready to be transplanted once they have four or five leaves -- usually within four to six weeks.
Selecting and Preparing a Planting Area
Choose an outdoor planting area that gets at least six hours of sunlight daily; more than six hours per day is better. The site's soil should be well-drained and moist, with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.8 to maximize growth and prevent club root disease, a fungal infection that causes the leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Mix a time-released vegetable fertilizer into the soil before either transplanting seedlings or sowing seeds directly into the garden. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 13-13-13 blend, at a general rate of 1 tablespoon for every 1 square foot of planting area.
Planting Procedure
Planting brussels sprout seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart allows them space to mature. Plant them slightly deeper in the garden's soil than they were in their containers' soil, with their lowest leaves right above soil level. After planting, tamp the soil around each plant, and water the soil thoroughly. A 2- to 3-inch-thick layer of hardwood mulch on the soil surface, but not touching the plants, helps keep the soil moist and cool.
Caring for the Plants
Keeping the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged during the growing season is important. The plants require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water weekly from rainfall and/or supplemental watering. Fertilize the plants by side-dressing them once when they are 1 foot tall. In order to do so, create a narrow, 1- to 2-inch deep furrow along the row of plants just beyond their widest branches. After spreading 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate in every 20 feet of the furrow, cover the furrow with soil.
Pruning the Plants and Handling Pests
Additional care for brussels sprouts includes pruning each plant's lowest six to eight leaves when the plant's stalk starts developing sprouts and removing each plant's growing tip about three weeks before you plan to harvest the sprouts. Watch for pests such as cabbage aphids and cabbage worms. Cabbage aphids are small, greenish-gray insects with a white covering, and wetting plants with a strong spray of water typically removes them. Cabbage worms -- green worms with a yellow stripe -- can be handpicked off plants.
Growing the Plants from Seeds
Brussels sprout seeds should be started indoors about six to eight weeks before the area's average last frost date. Sow the seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in potting mix or nutrient-rich soil. The seedlings are ready to be transplanted once they have four or five leaves -- usually within four to six weeks.
Selecting and Preparing a Planting Area
Choose an outdoor planting area that gets at least six hours of sunlight daily; more than six hours per day is better. The site's soil should be well-drained and moist, with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.8 to maximize growth and prevent club root disease, a fungal infection that causes the leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Mix a time-released vegetable fertilizer into the soil before either transplanting seedlings or sowing seeds directly into the garden. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 13-13-13 blend, at a general rate of 1 tablespoon for every 1 square foot of planting area.
Planting Procedure
Planting brussels sprout seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart allows them space to mature. Plant them slightly deeper in the garden's soil than they were in their containers' soil, with their lowest leaves right above soil level. After planting, tamp the soil around each plant, and water the soil thoroughly. A 2- to 3-inch-thick layer of hardwood mulch on the soil surface, but not touching the plants, helps keep the soil moist and cool.
Caring for the Plants
Keeping the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged during the growing season is important. The plants require 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water weekly from rainfall and/or supplemental watering. Fertilize the plants by side-dressing them once when they are 1 foot tall. In order to do so, create a narrow, 1- to 2-inch deep furrow along the row of plants just beyond their widest branches. After spreading 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate in every 20 feet of the furrow, cover the furrow with soil.
Pruning the Plants and Handling Pests
Additional care for brussels sprouts includes pruning each plant's lowest six to eight leaves when the plant's stalk starts developing sprouts and removing each plant's growing tip about three weeks before you plan to harvest the sprouts. Watch for pests such as cabbage aphids and cabbage worms. Cabbage aphids are small, greenish-gray insects with a white covering, and wetting plants with a strong spray of water typically removes them. Cabbage worms -- green worms with a yellow stripe -- can be handpicked off plants.
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