文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月22日
When you think of gorgeous plants to nurture throughout the growing season, you probably picture flowering plants. Coleus (Solenostemon spp. or Plectranthus spp.), however, are instead grown for their striking foliage, which helps make a bold garden statement. They are tender perennials, typically grown as annuals outside their native Southeast Asia.
Coleus Hardiness
Coleus are in danger of cold damage once the temperature drops to 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below 25 degrees will kill the plant. This means that they are hardy only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 13, though they may survive in sheltered locations protected from frost in USDA zone 9b. In colder zones, they are grown as annuals or as houseplants.
Preferred Conditions
Coleus can survive in sun or shade, but different cultivars have different preferences. Full sun bleaches color out of the leaves of shade-loving coleus, and full shade makes the colors on sun-tolerant cultivars more subdued. Cultivars that grow well in shade include "Black Magic," "'Fishnet Stockings" and "Sunset." Cultivars that prefer sunny conditions include "Alabama Sunset," "Pineapple" and "Solar Shadow."
Coleus will grow in a wide range of soil conditions, including clay, sand, loam and acidic soils. However, soils high in organic matter are best, and well-drained soil is essential. Coleus grown in soggy soils have stunted growth and the leaves will turn muddy, scorched-looking and fall off the plant. Coleus shouldn't be allowed to dry out completely, though. For the first seven to 10 days after planting, water to keep the soil around the root ball moist. After that, water deeply when the top 1 inch of soil dries out.
Planting Coleus
In USDA zones 10 through 13, coleus can be planted outdoors year-round. When growing coleus as an annual in zone 9 or below, plant outside in the spring after all danger of frost has passed. They can be started indoors from seed, planting eight to 10 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Coleus seeds germinate in soil temperatures 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and take seven to 14 days to sprout. The seeds need light to germinate, so don't cover them with potting mix. When you move the plants outdoors, space them 12 to 36 inches apart, depending on the cultivar's mature size; check plant tags before planting to make sure you're giving each plant enough room.
Ongoing Care
Keep coleus plants bushy and compact by pinching off the flowers as they develop. Coleus that are grown as perennials in warm climate zones have a tendency to become leggy, so be sure to pinch-back the tips of the plants when the branches start to get too long. Compact varieties like the "Wizard" series and the cultivar "Duckfoot" require little or no pinching to maintain an attractive bushy form.
Where they are hardy, coleus can live for years, but even with regular pinching and pruning they may become unattractive and leggy after a few years. You can replace unattractive plants by taking stem cuttings. Cut a section of young stem at least 2 inches long at any time of the year, and peel off the lowest leaves. Stick the cutting in water, and pot it when it starts to grow roots.
Coleus in Containers
Coleus grown in containers can be placed indoors or out. In zones where coleus are not hardy, you can set them outside after the last spring frost and move them indoors before the first autumn frost to keep the plants alive. Like coleus grown in the ground, container coleus require well-drained soil. Since containers dry out more quickly than garden beds, coleus in containers require more frequent watering. When grown as a houseplant, place coleus in a warm location with bright light.
Fertilizer Tips
Coleus have low fertilizer requirements. For in-ground plants, fertilize every four weeks starting in early summer to encourage mid-summer growth. Three fertilizer applications will be enough for plants grown as annuals, but perennials can be fertilized into early fall when the temperatures start to cool. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the usual strength. For example, mix a concentrated liquid fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 at a ratio of 1 teaspoon fertilizer per 1 gallon of water. This will cover 20 square feet of garden space.
When fertilizing container plants, use the same concentrated liquid fertilizer as for in-ground coleus. Mix 1/2 teaspoon with 1 gallon of water and apply it to the potting soil in place of a regular watering every two weeks during the growing season.
Coleus Hardiness
Coleus are in danger of cold damage once the temperature drops to 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below 25 degrees will kill the plant. This means that they are hardy only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 13, though they may survive in sheltered locations protected from frost in USDA zone 9b. In colder zones, they are grown as annuals or as houseplants.
Preferred Conditions
Coleus can survive in sun or shade, but different cultivars have different preferences. Full sun bleaches color out of the leaves of shade-loving coleus, and full shade makes the colors on sun-tolerant cultivars more subdued. Cultivars that grow well in shade include "Black Magic," "'Fishnet Stockings" and "Sunset." Cultivars that prefer sunny conditions include "Alabama Sunset," "Pineapple" and "Solar Shadow."
Coleus will grow in a wide range of soil conditions, including clay, sand, loam and acidic soils. However, soils high in organic matter are best, and well-drained soil is essential. Coleus grown in soggy soils have stunted growth and the leaves will turn muddy, scorched-looking and fall off the plant. Coleus shouldn't be allowed to dry out completely, though. For the first seven to 10 days after planting, water to keep the soil around the root ball moist. After that, water deeply when the top 1 inch of soil dries out.
Planting Coleus
In USDA zones 10 through 13, coleus can be planted outdoors year-round. When growing coleus as an annual in zone 9 or below, plant outside in the spring after all danger of frost has passed. They can be started indoors from seed, planting eight to 10 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Coleus seeds germinate in soil temperatures 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and take seven to 14 days to sprout. The seeds need light to germinate, so don't cover them with potting mix. When you move the plants outdoors, space them 12 to 36 inches apart, depending on the cultivar's mature size; check plant tags before planting to make sure you're giving each plant enough room.
Ongoing Care
Keep coleus plants bushy and compact by pinching off the flowers as they develop. Coleus that are grown as perennials in warm climate zones have a tendency to become leggy, so be sure to pinch-back the tips of the plants when the branches start to get too long. Compact varieties like the "Wizard" series and the cultivar "Duckfoot" require little or no pinching to maintain an attractive bushy form.
Where they are hardy, coleus can live for years, but even with regular pinching and pruning they may become unattractive and leggy after a few years. You can replace unattractive plants by taking stem cuttings. Cut a section of young stem at least 2 inches long at any time of the year, and peel off the lowest leaves. Stick the cutting in water, and pot it when it starts to grow roots.
Coleus in Containers
Coleus grown in containers can be placed indoors or out. In zones where coleus are not hardy, you can set them outside after the last spring frost and move them indoors before the first autumn frost to keep the plants alive. Like coleus grown in the ground, container coleus require well-drained soil. Since containers dry out more quickly than garden beds, coleus in containers require more frequent watering. When grown as a houseplant, place coleus in a warm location with bright light.
Fertilizer Tips
Coleus have low fertilizer requirements. For in-ground plants, fertilize every four weeks starting in early summer to encourage mid-summer growth. Three fertilizer applications will be enough for plants grown as annuals, but perennials can be fertilized into early fall when the temperatures start to cool. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the usual strength. For example, mix a concentrated liquid fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 at a ratio of 1 teaspoon fertilizer per 1 gallon of water. This will cover 20 square feet of garden space.
When fertilizing container plants, use the same concentrated liquid fertilizer as for in-ground coleus. Mix 1/2 teaspoon with 1 gallon of water and apply it to the potting soil in place of a regular watering every two weeks during the growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月21日
Hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.) plants produce large, often colorful, flowers during the summer. The hardy hibiscus varieties, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Tropical varieties, like Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), grow in USDA zones 9 through 11. Both hardy and tropical hibiscuses can suffer from yellow leaves and overall decline. The symptoms, causes and treatments are similar for both types of hibiscus.
Winter Leaf Drop
Tropical hibiscus varieties grown outdoors in summer but overwintered inside tend to suffer leaf yellowing, drop and dieback in the days following the move. It's difficult to supply a tropical hibiscus with enough light indoors, which causes further yellowing beyond the initial shock of relocation. Remove the leaves as they yellow if you want to try and keep the plant active during the winter. North Dakota State University Extension suggests placing the plant under bright artificial lighting for 13 hours each day, when brought inside during the winter months. You can also allow the plant to go dormant during winter. Place the plant in a dark area at around 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and allow all the leaves to yellow and fall off before cutting the plant back to 6 inches tall. In spring, resume watering and place the plant in a sunny spot to encourage a fresh flush of healthy, green growth.
Cultural Concerns
Wet, poorly drained soil can cause root rots and general leaf yellowing. Grow potted hibiscus in containers with bottom drainage holes so the soil doesn't stay soggy. Plant garden hibiscus in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering and waterlogged soil. Nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellowing foliage, especially a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Water potted hibiscus with a soluble, all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks, such as a 1/2 teaspoon of 24-8-16 all-purpose blend mixed with 1 quart of water. For garden plants, sprinkling 1 tablespoon of a 12-4-8 or similar blend over every 1 square foot of garden at eight-week intervals provides enough nutrients. Fertilize hibiscus plants only when they are actively growing in spring and summer.
Blights
Both tropical and hardy hibiscus varieties can develop yellow leaves from a botrytis blight infection. This fungal disease may also cause spotting and discoloration on flowers or show as gray masses of mold on leaf, bud and stem surfaces. Overly wet soil and poor air circulation are the main causes. Remove affected leaves, stems and flowers with shears, wiping the shears with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag after each cut to destroy any fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering and keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Leaf Spot Diseases
Yellow spots on leaf surfaces may indicate a fungal leaf spot diseases. The shape and size of the spots varies, but most leaf spot diseases aren't fatal and they rarely cause long-term damage. Hibiscus plants don't require fungicide treatments for leaf spots. Instead, remove badly affected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and plant debris from around the base of the plant. Watering early in the day and keeping the foliage dry further prevents leaf spot problems.
Winter Leaf Drop
Tropical hibiscus varieties grown outdoors in summer but overwintered inside tend to suffer leaf yellowing, drop and dieback in the days following the move. It's difficult to supply a tropical hibiscus with enough light indoors, which causes further yellowing beyond the initial shock of relocation. Remove the leaves as they yellow if you want to try and keep the plant active during the winter. North Dakota State University Extension suggests placing the plant under bright artificial lighting for 13 hours each day, when brought inside during the winter months. You can also allow the plant to go dormant during winter. Place the plant in a dark area at around 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and allow all the leaves to yellow and fall off before cutting the plant back to 6 inches tall. In spring, resume watering and place the plant in a sunny spot to encourage a fresh flush of healthy, green growth.
Cultural Concerns
Wet, poorly drained soil can cause root rots and general leaf yellowing. Grow potted hibiscus in containers with bottom drainage holes so the soil doesn't stay soggy. Plant garden hibiscus in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering and waterlogged soil. Nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellowing foliage, especially a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Water potted hibiscus with a soluble, all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks, such as a 1/2 teaspoon of 24-8-16 all-purpose blend mixed with 1 quart of water. For garden plants, sprinkling 1 tablespoon of a 12-4-8 or similar blend over every 1 square foot of garden at eight-week intervals provides enough nutrients. Fertilize hibiscus plants only when they are actively growing in spring and summer.
Blights
Both tropical and hardy hibiscus varieties can develop yellow leaves from a botrytis blight infection. This fungal disease may also cause spotting and discoloration on flowers or show as gray masses of mold on leaf, bud and stem surfaces. Overly wet soil and poor air circulation are the main causes. Remove affected leaves, stems and flowers with shears, wiping the shears with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag after each cut to destroy any fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering and keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Leaf Spot Diseases
Yellow spots on leaf surfaces may indicate a fungal leaf spot diseases. The shape and size of the spots varies, but most leaf spot diseases aren't fatal and they rarely cause long-term damage. Hibiscus plants don't require fungicide treatments for leaf spots. Instead, remove badly affected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and plant debris from around the base of the plant. Watering early in the day and keeping the foliage dry further prevents leaf spot problems.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月20日
Bird of paradise is the common name for two genera: Strelitzia and Caesaplinia. Both are tropical, drought-tolerant plants with bright, hot-colored blooms. They all work well as borders or specimen plantings.
Genera
Typical orange bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae) bloom
Strelitzia are clumping or tree-forming evergreen perennials with long leaves resembling banana tree leaves. The blossoms resemble tropical birds in flight. Caesalpinia (also dwarf poinciana) are evergreen or deciduous desert-adapted trees or shrubs with small, oval leaves and brightly-colored clusters of flowers.
Species
Strelitzia alba, the white bird of paradise
The orange bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae) is orange-blooming with clumping leaves that shoot 3 to 5 feet from the crown. White (Strelitzia alba) and giant (Strelitzia nicholai) bird of paradise bloom white. The white forms a tree 18 feet tall and the giant 30 feet tall. The red bird of paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima) and yellow (Caesalpinia gilliesii) have the same size and shape, but the yellow-blossoming species is hardier. Mexican bird of paradise (Caesalpinia mexicana) blooms sulfur yellow with a strong fragrance.
Cultivars
Strelitzia reginae var. Mandelas’s Gold, with yellow blooms instead of orange
The Juncea bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae var. juncea) is similar to the orange species, but the blooms are smaller. Mandelas's Gold produces yellow blossoms instead of the typical orange. Dwarf bird of paradise such as humilis and pygmaea only grow 18 to 20 inches tall. Caesalpinia pulcherrima phoenix is a red bird of paradise but blooms gold.
Genera
Typical orange bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae) bloom
Strelitzia are clumping or tree-forming evergreen perennials with long leaves resembling banana tree leaves. The blossoms resemble tropical birds in flight. Caesalpinia (also dwarf poinciana) are evergreen or deciduous desert-adapted trees or shrubs with small, oval leaves and brightly-colored clusters of flowers.
Species
Strelitzia alba, the white bird of paradise
The orange bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae) is orange-blooming with clumping leaves that shoot 3 to 5 feet from the crown. White (Strelitzia alba) and giant (Strelitzia nicholai) bird of paradise bloom white. The white forms a tree 18 feet tall and the giant 30 feet tall. The red bird of paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima) and yellow (Caesalpinia gilliesii) have the same size and shape, but the yellow-blossoming species is hardier. Mexican bird of paradise (Caesalpinia mexicana) blooms sulfur yellow with a strong fragrance.
Cultivars
Strelitzia reginae var. Mandelas’s Gold, with yellow blooms instead of orange
The Juncea bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae var. juncea) is similar to the orange species, but the blooms are smaller. Mandelas's Gold produces yellow blossoms instead of the typical orange. Dwarf bird of paradise such as humilis and pygmaea only grow 18 to 20 inches tall. Caesalpinia pulcherrima phoenix is a red bird of paradise but blooms gold.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月20日
Everybody knows that banana plants produce the bananas you slice up on your breakfast cereal, but there are other, less familiar uses for banana plants. These shrubs produce large, deep-green leaves on tall stalks, giving them the appearance of large trees. You can use banana plants to grow bananas but also to add a tropical touch indoors or outside.
Edible Gardening
Banana varieties that have edible fruits are members of the species Musa acuminata, which is hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11, and Musa balbisiana, hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11. They grow shoots best when temperatures remain 78 to 82 degrees F and fruit best at 84 to 86 F, but they can suffer chill damage at temperatures below 60 degrees F. Grow edible bananas in full-sun locations where the soil is rich in organic matter and is well-drained but still moist.
Standard-size edible banana plants can grow more than 30 feet tall, and they require 12-foot spacing between themselves and other large plants. Dwarf cultivars can tolerate an eight-foot distance from other dwarf varieties or 20 feet from large plants. Banana plants suffer few pest or disease problems, and they take 10 to 24 months to produce ripe fruits.
Tropical Screen
Dwarf Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana banana plants work well to create a tropical screen or living fence in regions where they are hardy. In colder climates, the hardy or Japanese banana (Musa basjoo), can serve the same purpose during the spring and summer months. Each of these three kinds of bananas produces dense foliage and large leaves. The hardy banana plant requires the same care as the other banana plants, except that it dies to the ground when the temperature drops to 32 degrees F. If you cut a hardy banana plant down to two to three feet above the ground after it dies back naturally, it will regrow in spring. The plant can grow 12 feet in a single season.
Garden Centerpiece
A single banana tree can become a large centerpiece in a garden, serving as a visual focal point. Edible banana plants provide year-round interest while the hardy banana is useful only as a showpiece in summer, except in USDA zones 9 through 10, where it remains evergreen. Planting a banana plant in a raised mound draws the eye to the plant while providing better drainage for its roots.
When planting a banana plant as a centerpiece, place it in a location protected from high winds but far enough from neighboring plants and buildings so that its foliage can reach its full spread to showcase the plant's natural, lush form.
Indoor Foliage
Hardy bananas grow well as potted plants and remain green all year in USDA zones 5 through 8 when taken indoors to protect them from cold weather. Dwarf edible banana plant varieties, such as "Cavendish" (Musa acuminata "Dwarf Cavendish"), hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11, also can survive as winter houseplants. Besides winter greenery, a potted banana plant gives a home a tropical touch.
The pot for any kind of banana plant must have bottom drainage holes so excess moisture can drain. Setting each banana plant's pot on a wheeled cart makes the large, heavy plant easier to move. Take the plants indoors before the first frost, and provide them with full, all-day sunlight. They grow especially well in an indoor sun-room. Banana plants become semi-dormant in winter. Water their soil enough so it doesn't dry out completely, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to rot. Both hardy and edible potted banana plants grow best when they spend summer outdoors in a sunny spot.
Edible Gardening
Banana varieties that have edible fruits are members of the species Musa acuminata, which is hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11, and Musa balbisiana, hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11. They grow shoots best when temperatures remain 78 to 82 degrees F and fruit best at 84 to 86 F, but they can suffer chill damage at temperatures below 60 degrees F. Grow edible bananas in full-sun locations where the soil is rich in organic matter and is well-drained but still moist.
Standard-size edible banana plants can grow more than 30 feet tall, and they require 12-foot spacing between themselves and other large plants. Dwarf cultivars can tolerate an eight-foot distance from other dwarf varieties or 20 feet from large plants. Banana plants suffer few pest or disease problems, and they take 10 to 24 months to produce ripe fruits.
Tropical Screen
Dwarf Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana banana plants work well to create a tropical screen or living fence in regions where they are hardy. In colder climates, the hardy or Japanese banana (Musa basjoo), can serve the same purpose during the spring and summer months. Each of these three kinds of bananas produces dense foliage and large leaves. The hardy banana plant requires the same care as the other banana plants, except that it dies to the ground when the temperature drops to 32 degrees F. If you cut a hardy banana plant down to two to three feet above the ground after it dies back naturally, it will regrow in spring. The plant can grow 12 feet in a single season.
Garden Centerpiece
A single banana tree can become a large centerpiece in a garden, serving as a visual focal point. Edible banana plants provide year-round interest while the hardy banana is useful only as a showpiece in summer, except in USDA zones 9 through 10, where it remains evergreen. Planting a banana plant in a raised mound draws the eye to the plant while providing better drainage for its roots.
When planting a banana plant as a centerpiece, place it in a location protected from high winds but far enough from neighboring plants and buildings so that its foliage can reach its full spread to showcase the plant's natural, lush form.
Indoor Foliage
Hardy bananas grow well as potted plants and remain green all year in USDA zones 5 through 8 when taken indoors to protect them from cold weather. Dwarf edible banana plant varieties, such as "Cavendish" (Musa acuminata "Dwarf Cavendish"), hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11, also can survive as winter houseplants. Besides winter greenery, a potted banana plant gives a home a tropical touch.
The pot for any kind of banana plant must have bottom drainage holes so excess moisture can drain. Setting each banana plant's pot on a wheeled cart makes the large, heavy plant easier to move. Take the plants indoors before the first frost, and provide them with full, all-day sunlight. They grow especially well in an indoor sun-room. Banana plants become semi-dormant in winter. Water their soil enough so it doesn't dry out completely, but avoid overwatering, which can lead to rot. Both hardy and edible potted banana plants grow best when they spend summer outdoors in a sunny spot.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
A low-maintenance plant, ferns grow well in most homes. Many ferns are tropical in origin and can only be grown indoors where they are protected from frost. One of the primary reasons the plants suffer is from improper care. Ferns have different light, water and fertilizer requirements when compared to other common houseplants. If the ferns are weak or dying, ensuring they receive what they need to remain healthy usually revives the plants.
Step 1
Move the fern away from direct sunlight, if applicable, as overly bright light burns the plant and causes wilting. Ferns prefer indirect light such as that from a north-facing window.
Step 2
Provide humidity around the fern. Fill the drip tray with a 2- to 3-inch layer of pebbles. Add water to the tray until the water level sits jut beneath the top of the pebbles. Set the pot on top of the pebbles and replenish the water in the tray as necessary to maintain the water level. The evaporating moisture from the tray adds humidity to the air around the fern.
Step 3
Water the ferns before the soil dries out completely, as these plants require a high-moisture environment. Feel the soil once or twice a week and water as soon as the top inch of soil begins to feel dry but before it dries completely. Water at the base of the fern until the excess moisture drains from the bottom. Too little water causes the fern to wilt or drop fronds.
Step 4
Keep ferns in a 68 to 72 degree Fahrenheit room. Temperatures can drop as low as 62 F at night. Most ferns cannot tolerate overly cold or hot temperatures.
Step 5
Fertilize with a weak solution once a month, as over-feeding can kill the plants. Apply a general-purpose, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half the rate recommended on the package. Only fertilize growing ferns; the plants don't require fertilization when they are dormant.
Step 1
Move the fern away from direct sunlight, if applicable, as overly bright light burns the plant and causes wilting. Ferns prefer indirect light such as that from a north-facing window.
Step 2
Provide humidity around the fern. Fill the drip tray with a 2- to 3-inch layer of pebbles. Add water to the tray until the water level sits jut beneath the top of the pebbles. Set the pot on top of the pebbles and replenish the water in the tray as necessary to maintain the water level. The evaporating moisture from the tray adds humidity to the air around the fern.
Step 3
Water the ferns before the soil dries out completely, as these plants require a high-moisture environment. Feel the soil once or twice a week and water as soon as the top inch of soil begins to feel dry but before it dries completely. Water at the base of the fern until the excess moisture drains from the bottom. Too little water causes the fern to wilt or drop fronds.
Step 4
Keep ferns in a 68 to 72 degree Fahrenheit room. Temperatures can drop as low as 62 F at night. Most ferns cannot tolerate overly cold or hot temperatures.
Step 5
Fertilize with a weak solution once a month, as over-feeding can kill the plants. Apply a general-purpose, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half the rate recommended on the package. Only fertilize growing ferns; the plants don't require fertilization when they are dormant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
Sedum plants, also called stonecrop, require very little water to survive. The fleshy, plump leaves store water, making sedums tolerant of drought and dry, harsh conditions. All plants need water, and sedums are no exception — the trick is to water enough to keep the plants happy without watering too much. Sedum plants are easy to over water both in the ground and in containers. An over-watered sedum is likely to flop over and die more quickly than an under-watered sedum.
Step 1
Water sedums in the garden only during hot, dry weather. Press your index finger into the top 2 inches of the soil. If it is dry at the bottom, soak each plant until the ground is damp 4 inches deep.
Step 2
Allow sedums to dry out between waterings. In wet and rainy weather, do not provide sedums with additional water.
Step 3
Water potted sedums when the top 1 inch of soil dries out. Press your index finger into the soil at the edge of the pot to see how deep the moisture level is.
Step 4
Place the pot into the sink and soak it with water until it runs out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. Leave the pot in the sink to drain before replacing it in its permanent location.
Step 1
Water sedums in the garden only during hot, dry weather. Press your index finger into the top 2 inches of the soil. If it is dry at the bottom, soak each plant until the ground is damp 4 inches deep.
Step 2
Allow sedums to dry out between waterings. In wet and rainy weather, do not provide sedums with additional water.
Step 3
Water potted sedums when the top 1 inch of soil dries out. Press your index finger into the soil at the edge of the pot to see how deep the moisture level is.
Step 4
Place the pot into the sink and soak it with water until it runs out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. Leave the pot in the sink to drain before replacing it in its permanent location.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
Dracaena corn plants (Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana') belong within the family Agavaceae. This evergreen, perennial shrub thrives outdoors in frost-free areas of the United States. Plants grow slowly, reaching up to 15 feet tall at maturity. Sword-like leaves reach up to 1 foot long and grow in bunches at the top of tall trunks, or canes. Plumes of fragrant white flowers bloom periodically year-round. Plants are suitable used as specimens, houseplants, or grown in containers or planters. Gardeners can prune corn plants to control its size, or start new plants from the cuttings.
Step 1
Wipe the blades of loppers or pruning shears off with a cloth dipped in alcohol or bleach to sterilize pruning tools before cutting the corn plant. This kills any bacteria or diseases on the blades that can infect the corn plant through the fresh cut.
Step 2
Trim off green branches or shoots using pruning shears, if doing a light pruning to the corn plant. Cut off the branch at the desired location, or flush with the trunk. The branch will sprout two to three new stems in cuts not made flush to the trunk or cane.
Step 3
Trim through thick cane sections using loppers. Select the area on the corn plant's trunk you desire to cut it back to and slice through the area using loppers. Two to three new branches will develop where you made the cut.
Step 4
Prune off a trunk or cane flush to the ground, if pruning away multiple trunks. Cut the cane off using loppers and pile soil on top of the cut so it does not sprout back. Use this method if you desire a single-trunk corn plant, or desire to eliminate a trunk.
Step 5
Trim off plumes of spent blossoms. Use pruning shears and trim the dead flower section back to the foliage.
Step 1
Wipe the blades of loppers or pruning shears off with a cloth dipped in alcohol or bleach to sterilize pruning tools before cutting the corn plant. This kills any bacteria or diseases on the blades that can infect the corn plant through the fresh cut.
Step 2
Trim off green branches or shoots using pruning shears, if doing a light pruning to the corn plant. Cut off the branch at the desired location, or flush with the trunk. The branch will sprout two to three new stems in cuts not made flush to the trunk or cane.
Step 3
Trim through thick cane sections using loppers. Select the area on the corn plant's trunk you desire to cut it back to and slice through the area using loppers. Two to three new branches will develop where you made the cut.
Step 4
Prune off a trunk or cane flush to the ground, if pruning away multiple trunks. Cut the cane off using loppers and pile soil on top of the cut so it does not sprout back. Use this method if you desire a single-trunk corn plant, or desire to eliminate a trunk.
Step 5
Trim off plumes of spent blossoms. Use pruning shears and trim the dead flower section back to the foliage.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
Ferns are among the oldest types of plants still surviving on the planet, and some species have remained virtually unchanged for tens of millions of years. They are also one of the most diverse groups of plants, with thousands of species spread across most temperate parts of the globe.
Ancient Ferns
During the Carboniferous Period, which ended about 300 million years ago, ferns were the dominant form of plant life on Earth, and although many ancient ferns were nearly identical to fern species alive today, the Carboniferous forests were home to towering tree ferns that created a canopy under which smaller ferns grew.
Although modern tree ferns, which are much like their ancient ancestors, have structures similar to other ferns, they grow to immense sizes and resemble full-size tropical trees. The Australian tree fern (Sphaeropteris cooperi) grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b through 11, and it can be grown indoors in a container. This fern grows a single trunk that can be up to 12 inches in diameter, and it unfurls fronds that are between 12 and 18 inches long. This tree fern can grow 15 to 30 feet tall.
Colorful Ferns
Many fern species grow in the shady, moist environments under forest canopies and blend into the undergrowth, but not all ferns are green. Some species are nearly as showy as vibrant garden flowers. The new growth of some ferns is strikingly orange, red or yellow, and some species have brilliantly colored stems or variegated leaves.
The Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum var. "Pictum") is a delicate, low-growing fern that grows in USDA zones 5 through 8. Its red-purple leaf stems contrast with the silvery sheen of its leaflets, and it grows in 8- to 12-inch-tall clumps that hug the soil.
Unfurling Fronds
Fern leaves are called fronds, and their structure is different than other plants. Fern fronds usually sprout directly from the plant's underground structure without any stem, and the fronds gradually unroll from base to tip, forming the familiar "fiddlehead" shape in the process.
Fern fronds are made up of a central stem called a rachis and small leaflets that grow along the rachis. In some species, the frond is divided, with a smaller rachis branching from the central stem; then an even smaller rachis branches from that one, until the frond is divided as many as four or five times.
Spores, Not Seeds
Most flowering plants reproduce through seeds that develop from flowers, but ferns have neither flowers nor seeds. It's their lack of seeds that sets them apart from both flowering plants and cone-bearing plants.
The fern's life cycle begins when the adult fern plant, called a sporophyte, produces and sheds spores, tiny seedlike capsules that are dispersed by water or wind to a location away from the parent plant. In the new spot, the spore germinates and produces a new plant, called a gametophyte. The gametophyte, which is often tiny and inconspicuous compared to the sporophyte, then produces both egg and sperm cells. The sperm cells fertilize the egg cells, and the fertilized egg grows into a new sporophyte.
Ancient Ferns
During the Carboniferous Period, which ended about 300 million years ago, ferns were the dominant form of plant life on Earth, and although many ancient ferns were nearly identical to fern species alive today, the Carboniferous forests were home to towering tree ferns that created a canopy under which smaller ferns grew.
Although modern tree ferns, which are much like their ancient ancestors, have structures similar to other ferns, they grow to immense sizes and resemble full-size tropical trees. The Australian tree fern (Sphaeropteris cooperi) grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b through 11, and it can be grown indoors in a container. This fern grows a single trunk that can be up to 12 inches in diameter, and it unfurls fronds that are between 12 and 18 inches long. This tree fern can grow 15 to 30 feet tall.
Colorful Ferns
Many fern species grow in the shady, moist environments under forest canopies and blend into the undergrowth, but not all ferns are green. Some species are nearly as showy as vibrant garden flowers. The new growth of some ferns is strikingly orange, red or yellow, and some species have brilliantly colored stems or variegated leaves.
The Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum var. "Pictum") is a delicate, low-growing fern that grows in USDA zones 5 through 8. Its red-purple leaf stems contrast with the silvery sheen of its leaflets, and it grows in 8- to 12-inch-tall clumps that hug the soil.
Unfurling Fronds
Fern leaves are called fronds, and their structure is different than other plants. Fern fronds usually sprout directly from the plant's underground structure without any stem, and the fronds gradually unroll from base to tip, forming the familiar "fiddlehead" shape in the process.
Fern fronds are made up of a central stem called a rachis and small leaflets that grow along the rachis. In some species, the frond is divided, with a smaller rachis branching from the central stem; then an even smaller rachis branches from that one, until the frond is divided as many as four or five times.
Spores, Not Seeds
Most flowering plants reproduce through seeds that develop from flowers, but ferns have neither flowers nor seeds. It's their lack of seeds that sets them apart from both flowering plants and cone-bearing plants.
The fern's life cycle begins when the adult fern plant, called a sporophyte, produces and sheds spores, tiny seedlike capsules that are dispersed by water or wind to a location away from the parent plant. In the new spot, the spore germinates and produces a new plant, called a gametophyte. The gametophyte, which is often tiny and inconspicuous compared to the sporophyte, then produces both egg and sperm cells. The sperm cells fertilize the egg cells, and the fertilized egg grows into a new sporophyte.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月15日
Pampas Grass (Cortaderia selloana) creates a tall, flowing feature in your garden when in full bloom. Planting at the appropriate time for your geographical area is important if you want the plants to have tall 10-foot plumes by late summer. The grass thrives in warm temperatures and is a perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. Cooler growing zones can also plant pampas grass, but is will only grow as an annual. Pampas grass is considered invasive in some areas of the U.S.
Preparing Planting Area
Pampas grass produces long, feathery plumes and can have an aggressive growth pattern. Begin planting preparation by choosing a planting area that will not hinder the growth or block other plants. Clear the area and work the soil to a minimum depth of 12 inches about one month before the desired planting date to give the soil time to settle.
Dividing Existing Plants
Pampas grass is a clump-growing plant that is easily divided to obtain new plants. Dividing plants in early spring offers the best results with transplanting and root establishment before the height of the summer growing season. Remove the entire plant from the soil by digging around the root mass and gently pulling out the plant. Carefully break the root mass into smaller clumps that contain both root and grass stems. Plant the pampas grass transplants in a new location immediately and at the same depth they were previously growing. Wear gloves when handling pampas grass, as the blades are sharp and can cut your hands.
Starting From Seed
Planting pampas grass from seeds can begin during the late winter months. This gives the seeds enough time to germinate and grow into strong seedlings before planting them in an outdoor garden in spring. Most plants do not produce viable seeds because both male and female plants are required for pollination.
Planting Seedlings Depends on Climate
The date pampas grass seedlings are planted outdoors is dependent on the geographical area. USDA zones warmer than zone 7 rarely get freezing temperatures in the spring that will damage the plants. Gardeners in these warmer USDA zones can successfully plant pampas grass year-round. Those in cooler USDA zones should wait until after the last hard frost of the spring season.
Benefits Of Containers
Use large pots with good drainage holes to grow pampas grass if you are concerned about the plant spreading or becoming too aggressive in your garden. Growing in pots allows you to plant the grass earlier in spring, since you can easily move the pot indoors or into a protected area if there is a risk of damaging temperatures.
Preparing Planting Area
Pampas grass produces long, feathery plumes and can have an aggressive growth pattern. Begin planting preparation by choosing a planting area that will not hinder the growth or block other plants. Clear the area and work the soil to a minimum depth of 12 inches about one month before the desired planting date to give the soil time to settle.
Dividing Existing Plants
Pampas grass is a clump-growing plant that is easily divided to obtain new plants. Dividing plants in early spring offers the best results with transplanting and root establishment before the height of the summer growing season. Remove the entire plant from the soil by digging around the root mass and gently pulling out the plant. Carefully break the root mass into smaller clumps that contain both root and grass stems. Plant the pampas grass transplants in a new location immediately and at the same depth they were previously growing. Wear gloves when handling pampas grass, as the blades are sharp and can cut your hands.
Starting From Seed
Planting pampas grass from seeds can begin during the late winter months. This gives the seeds enough time to germinate and grow into strong seedlings before planting them in an outdoor garden in spring. Most plants do not produce viable seeds because both male and female plants are required for pollination.
Planting Seedlings Depends on Climate
The date pampas grass seedlings are planted outdoors is dependent on the geographical area. USDA zones warmer than zone 7 rarely get freezing temperatures in the spring that will damage the plants. Gardeners in these warmer USDA zones can successfully plant pampas grass year-round. Those in cooler USDA zones should wait until after the last hard frost of the spring season.
Benefits Of Containers
Use large pots with good drainage holes to grow pampas grass if you are concerned about the plant spreading or becoming too aggressive in your garden. Growing in pots allows you to plant the grass earlier in spring, since you can easily move the pot indoors or into a protected area if there is a risk of damaging temperatures.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月15日
Hibiscus plants produce a flower that evokes the tropics. It is a large colorful bloom with a cluster that includes a brightly colored, elongated stamen, decorated with multiple anthers and topped with five to six stigmas. Although most hibiscus are tropical to subtropical, a few cold-hardy varieties are called hardy hibiscus. Hibiscus are in the family Malvaceae, which also represents mallow, hollyhock and even cotton. The flowers can be between 4 to 8 inches and are found in pinks, yellows and whites.
Family Malvaceae
All members of the Malvaceae family have similar characteristics. The family comprises shrubs, trees and herbs and extends to 75 genera and 1,500 species. Most of these have fine hairs on the stems and a mucilaginous sap. The flowers bear five petals and come in a variety of colors. The petals have a crumpled paper or ruffled appearance. The leaves on plants in the Malvaceae family are alternate, simple and veined. The flowers are where family members bear the most resemblance.
Plants in the Family
Plants in the family Malvaceae bear characteristic whorls of blooms. Rose of Sharon or Althea is a common perennial shrub with pink to red blooms on woody stems. Abutilon is a frost-tender plant grown as either an annual or perennial. It forms small drooping flowers that have the same basic characteristics as the hibiscus. Mallow or Malva is a common plant that can produce a large bush or sprawling ground cover.
Visual Similarity
In appearance, the rose mallow in the genera Malva has the most similar flowers. It also has the same shape of leaf, although hibiscus has a glossier tone. The mallow flowers are about 4 inches across, and it grows best in full sun but can tolerate partial shade. The flower hues are not as varied as hibiscus and only come in white, pink and rose red. Mallow is often mistaken for hibiscus and is in the same family.
Cultural Similarity
Althea is the most similar to hibiscus culturally. It requires full sun and moist, well-drained soil and should be watered thoroughly but infrequently and not allowed to dry out. As with the hibiscus, monthly dilutions of fertilizer will help it flourish and bloom all season. As with large hibiscus, pruning early in spring encourages blooms and a more compact growth habit. The plant doesn't tolerate freezing conditions and should be covered or brought indoors in freezing weather. Both plants can be propagated by seeds or by cuttings.
Family Malvaceae
All members of the Malvaceae family have similar characteristics. The family comprises shrubs, trees and herbs and extends to 75 genera and 1,500 species. Most of these have fine hairs on the stems and a mucilaginous sap. The flowers bear five petals and come in a variety of colors. The petals have a crumpled paper or ruffled appearance. The leaves on plants in the Malvaceae family are alternate, simple and veined. The flowers are where family members bear the most resemblance.
Plants in the Family
Plants in the family Malvaceae bear characteristic whorls of blooms. Rose of Sharon or Althea is a common perennial shrub with pink to red blooms on woody stems. Abutilon is a frost-tender plant grown as either an annual or perennial. It forms small drooping flowers that have the same basic characteristics as the hibiscus. Mallow or Malva is a common plant that can produce a large bush or sprawling ground cover.
Visual Similarity
In appearance, the rose mallow in the genera Malva has the most similar flowers. It also has the same shape of leaf, although hibiscus has a glossier tone. The mallow flowers are about 4 inches across, and it grows best in full sun but can tolerate partial shade. The flower hues are not as varied as hibiscus and only come in white, pink and rose red. Mallow is often mistaken for hibiscus and is in the same family.
Cultural Similarity
Althea is the most similar to hibiscus culturally. It requires full sun and moist, well-drained soil and should be watered thoroughly but infrequently and not allowed to dry out. As with the hibiscus, monthly dilutions of fertilizer will help it flourish and bloom all season. As with large hibiscus, pruning early in spring encourages blooms and a more compact growth habit. The plant doesn't tolerate freezing conditions and should be covered or brought indoors in freezing weather. Both plants can be propagated by seeds or by cuttings.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月14日
Kalanchoes are perennial, short-day-blooming succulent plants that bear bunches of small blossoms on branching bracts. They are typically grown indoors, but can be placed outside whenever temperatures are warm enough, or if winter temperatures don't get low enough to harm them. Grown indoors or outside, kalanchoes still need bright light, dry periods between watering and room to spread their root system.
Hardiness Zone
While temperatures of 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit will keep the Kalanchoes in bloom, freezing temperatures can kill them. In zones 10 and 11, they can be planted directly in the landscape with minimal winter protection and will function as perennials. Even a few hours of temperatures near 40 degrees can kill unprotected kalanachoes.
Location
Kalanchoes are lovely in or out of bloom, but need short daylight hours to produce blooms. Kalanchoes planted where nighttime lighting reaches the leaves may not produce blooms as often as those planted where they have long stretches of darkness at night. In zones 10 and 11, summertime direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Planted near a deciduous tree with dappled shade, kalanchoes benefit from more winter sun and less summer sun.
Moving Indoors
North of zone 11, kalanchoes are grown as summer annuals, or must be planted in pots so they can be moved indoors when frost threatens. If they are set outdoors in an area with intense, full sunlight, they must be gradually adjusted to the lower light levels they will experience indoors.
Considerations
Heavy winds can break the succulent stems of kalanchoes or even uproot them. Place the container in a sheltered area. Kalanchoes also do not "play well" with other plants, in that they have a very demanding root system. They need plenty of root space from other plants and particularly don't compete well with grass. The more root room they have in the ground or in their containers, the larger the plant will grow and the more bloom clusters it can support.
Hardiness Zone
While temperatures of 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit will keep the Kalanchoes in bloom, freezing temperatures can kill them. In zones 10 and 11, they can be planted directly in the landscape with minimal winter protection and will function as perennials. Even a few hours of temperatures near 40 degrees can kill unprotected kalanachoes.
Location
Kalanchoes are lovely in or out of bloom, but need short daylight hours to produce blooms. Kalanchoes planted where nighttime lighting reaches the leaves may not produce blooms as often as those planted where they have long stretches of darkness at night. In zones 10 and 11, summertime direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Planted near a deciduous tree with dappled shade, kalanchoes benefit from more winter sun and less summer sun.
Moving Indoors
North of zone 11, kalanchoes are grown as summer annuals, or must be planted in pots so they can be moved indoors when frost threatens. If they are set outdoors in an area with intense, full sunlight, they must be gradually adjusted to the lower light levels they will experience indoors.
Considerations
Heavy winds can break the succulent stems of kalanchoes or even uproot them. Place the container in a sheltered area. Kalanchoes also do not "play well" with other plants, in that they have a very demanding root system. They need plenty of root space from other plants and particularly don't compete well with grass. The more root room they have in the ground or in their containers, the larger the plant will grow and the more bloom clusters it can support.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月14日
The agave and aloe plants are succulents with fleshy, pointed leaves and a sculptural quality. Both provide a dramatic focal point in a garden. They are admired not only for their attractive form, but for their easy upkeep and drought tolerance. Though they appear superficially similar, there are many differences between the two plants. Agave is used for rope, tequila and a sugar substitute. Aloe is used for lotions and gels.
Origin
Though both agave and aloe are native to desert regions, they come from different areas of the world and different families in the plant kingdom. Agave is from the Agavaceae family and is native to Mexico. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 8 to 10. Aloe, a member of the tree lily family known as Aloaceae, is native to parts of Africa and Arabia. It is hardy in zones 9 and 10.
Size
Agaves range from 6 inches to 10 feet tall. The smallest is the Agave parviflora, which has sharp pointy leaves with curled fibers on the ends. The Agave mapisaga, on the other end of the spectrum, grows 10 feet feet tall and wide. There are more than 300 species of aloe, ranging from 2 inches across to tree height. Aloe vera, often grown as a houseplant and kept in the kitchen, contains a gel that helps heal minor burns. Larger aloe, such as the 50-foot-tall Aloe bainesii, has ''a grotesquely thickened trunk and tapering branches that make it look like a character out of a Dr. Seuss story,'' according to ''The Book of Outdoor Gardening.''
Flowers
Many varieties of aloe have warmly colored red-orange, yellow or white flowers that replenish themselves throughout the plant's life. Aloe marlothii, for example, has side-leaning flowers that resemble red-hot flames blowing in the wind. It blooms year-round. A few agaves have flowers, but most of these bloom only once in the entire life of the plant. Queen Victoria agave is one flowering variety of agave. It blooms only after the plant has lived a decade or more and only in summer.
Leaves
The leaves of the aloe and agave may look similar, but they are actually quite different. The agave has a fibrous leaf, with a vascular system of fibers running the entire length of each leaf. These fibers are used to make rope and string. The leaves often last the entire life of the agave. Aloe, on the other hand, has leaves with a gelatinous interior. Fibers are not present. Another difference is the leaf margin. Agave has distinct, sharp teeth on its margin, with a line of demarcation. Aloe has what appear to be teeth, but are actually just elongations of the leaf without any line of demarcation.
Origin
Though both agave and aloe are native to desert regions, they come from different areas of the world and different families in the plant kingdom. Agave is from the Agavaceae family and is native to Mexico. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 8 to 10. Aloe, a member of the tree lily family known as Aloaceae, is native to parts of Africa and Arabia. It is hardy in zones 9 and 10.
Size
Agaves range from 6 inches to 10 feet tall. The smallest is the Agave parviflora, which has sharp pointy leaves with curled fibers on the ends. The Agave mapisaga, on the other end of the spectrum, grows 10 feet feet tall and wide. There are more than 300 species of aloe, ranging from 2 inches across to tree height. Aloe vera, often grown as a houseplant and kept in the kitchen, contains a gel that helps heal minor burns. Larger aloe, such as the 50-foot-tall Aloe bainesii, has ''a grotesquely thickened trunk and tapering branches that make it look like a character out of a Dr. Seuss story,'' according to ''The Book of Outdoor Gardening.''
Flowers
Many varieties of aloe have warmly colored red-orange, yellow or white flowers that replenish themselves throughout the plant's life. Aloe marlothii, for example, has side-leaning flowers that resemble red-hot flames blowing in the wind. It blooms year-round. A few agaves have flowers, but most of these bloom only once in the entire life of the plant. Queen Victoria agave is one flowering variety of agave. It blooms only after the plant has lived a decade or more and only in summer.
Leaves
The leaves of the aloe and agave may look similar, but they are actually quite different. The agave has a fibrous leaf, with a vascular system of fibers running the entire length of each leaf. These fibers are used to make rope and string. The leaves often last the entire life of the agave. Aloe, on the other hand, has leaves with a gelatinous interior. Fibers are not present. Another difference is the leaf margin. Agave has distinct, sharp teeth on its margin, with a line of demarcation. Aloe has what appear to be teeth, but are actually just elongations of the leaf without any line of demarcation.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月14日
Flowering perennial plants have a life cycle of two years or more. They require less maintenance than annual flowers and they include regional native flowering plants. Familiar flowering perennials include hollyhock, roses, Shasta daisies, carnations, iris, coreopsis, azaleas, hydrangeas and peonies. Native perennials such as Ceanothus, salvia, abutilon, yarrow, columbine and pawpaw, thrive in the natural climate and soil conditions of their native regions and do not require additional soil amendments.
Yarrow
Common yarrow, also known as milfoil, is native to the entire United States. It is a member of the aster family of flowers and has many hybridized variations. Yarrow grows 3 feet in height, has lacy gray-green leaves and white or pink flat-topped clusters of flowers. This native flowering perennial adapts easily to a home garden where it spreads through seed from its mature flowers. It has fragrant foliage and has been traditionally used as a medicinal tea for stomach ailments. Yarrow blooms April to July in the south and west and from mid-July through September in the north.
Butterfly Weed
Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, orange milkweed and pleurisy root are the common names for this showy, abundant-blooming native perennial. Its bright yellow-orange flower clusters are 2 to 5 inches across and bloom from May to September. Its sturdy blooms are good cut flowers and are grown with other mid-size flowering perennials. It has a high drought tolerance, very low water usage and prefers sandy, well-draining soil. Indigenous people used the root of this plant as a cure for bronchitis and other lung ailments. Regional native plant nurseries provide seeds and started butterfly weed plants.
Great Blue Lobelia
Showy lavender blue tubular flowers grow on the stems of the native Great Blue Lobelia. This native plant flowering perennial thrives in moist garden conditions in sun or shade, in clay or sandy soil. It blooms July to September. It is commercially available through native plant nurseries, propagated by divided root clumps or seed. Seeds sprout easily on a slightly scratched soil surface. Great Blue Lobelia attracts birds and butterflies to the garden.
Desert Marigold
This flowering short-lived perennial is native to the drier regions of the southwestern United States. Seeds are commercially available from online native plant resources. It is easily grown in home gardens where it provides yellow daisy-like flowers that bloom continuously from early spring to fall on a 12 to 18 inch mound. Its leaves are woolly and grayish, with one bloom at the end of each slender, leafless flower stalk. The desert marigold thrives in dry soil, part shade and extreme heat. It has very low water requirements and it attracts bees and butterflies.
Yarrow
Common yarrow, also known as milfoil, is native to the entire United States. It is a member of the aster family of flowers and has many hybridized variations. Yarrow grows 3 feet in height, has lacy gray-green leaves and white or pink flat-topped clusters of flowers. This native flowering perennial adapts easily to a home garden where it spreads through seed from its mature flowers. It has fragrant foliage and has been traditionally used as a medicinal tea for stomach ailments. Yarrow blooms April to July in the south and west and from mid-July through September in the north.
Butterfly Weed
Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, orange milkweed and pleurisy root are the common names for this showy, abundant-blooming native perennial. Its bright yellow-orange flower clusters are 2 to 5 inches across and bloom from May to September. Its sturdy blooms are good cut flowers and are grown with other mid-size flowering perennials. It has a high drought tolerance, very low water usage and prefers sandy, well-draining soil. Indigenous people used the root of this plant as a cure for bronchitis and other lung ailments. Regional native plant nurseries provide seeds and started butterfly weed plants.
Great Blue Lobelia
Showy lavender blue tubular flowers grow on the stems of the native Great Blue Lobelia. This native plant flowering perennial thrives in moist garden conditions in sun or shade, in clay or sandy soil. It blooms July to September. It is commercially available through native plant nurseries, propagated by divided root clumps or seed. Seeds sprout easily on a slightly scratched soil surface. Great Blue Lobelia attracts birds and butterflies to the garden.
Desert Marigold
This flowering short-lived perennial is native to the drier regions of the southwestern United States. Seeds are commercially available from online native plant resources. It is easily grown in home gardens where it provides yellow daisy-like flowers that bloom continuously from early spring to fall on a 12 to 18 inch mound. Its leaves are woolly and grayish, with one bloom at the end of each slender, leafless flower stalk. The desert marigold thrives in dry soil, part shade and extreme heat. It has very low water requirements and it attracts bees and butterflies.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月13日
Perennial delphiniums bloom from late spring to early summer, and may even grace you with a second showing in later summer or early fall. To make the most of the blooming season, deadhead these plants regularly. Deadheading, or the removal of spent flowers, is simply a way of coaxing these plants to form new blooms on the offshoots of their main stalks. When you remove the flowers before seeds are allowed to mature, delphinium plants sense that the seeds need to be replaced and send up more blooms. You're essentially fooling them into making more flowers for you.
Step 1
Cut stately blooming delphinium spikes freely for your stunning indoor arrangements throughout the growing season. Use clean, sharp shears and make your cuts just below the lowest flower on the stem.
Step 2
Deadhead your delphiniums as the individual blooms fade. Cut a spent flower's stem completely back to the nearest pair of leaves or set of branching stems. This is where the next flower buds will emerge.
Step 3
Remove the blooming stalk as soon as its last remaining flower is spent. Cut the spike off cleanly at the base of the plant.
Step 4
Prune any dead or damaged leaves out of the plant to tidy it up, if you wish. Don't remove any more of the foliage than necessary. Your delphinium will form new shoots from its base soon after you've cut the flower stem. The new growth will develop into flower spikes later in the season and they'll need the nourishment that the leaves provide.
Step 1
Cut stately blooming delphinium spikes freely for your stunning indoor arrangements throughout the growing season. Use clean, sharp shears and make your cuts just below the lowest flower on the stem.
Step 2
Deadhead your delphiniums as the individual blooms fade. Cut a spent flower's stem completely back to the nearest pair of leaves or set of branching stems. This is where the next flower buds will emerge.
Step 3
Remove the blooming stalk as soon as its last remaining flower is spent. Cut the spike off cleanly at the base of the plant.
Step 4
Prune any dead or damaged leaves out of the plant to tidy it up, if you wish. Don't remove any more of the foliage than necessary. Your delphinium will form new shoots from its base soon after you've cut the flower stem. The new growth will develop into flower spikes later in the season and they'll need the nourishment that the leaves provide.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月12日
Few plants are more versatile than the begonia (Begonia spp.), which comes in many different types. One group is especially well-adapted to growing in a hanging planter or basket, either outdoors or in the house. This type of begonia is called trailing or scadent -- scadent means "climbing" -- because its branches can become quite long, in some varieties up to 8 feet, making them ideal for hanging planters. For example, some types of tuberous begonias (Begonia tuberosa) have this type of growth habit and do especially well as hanging plants. They grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, but can also grow as annuals or as houseplants, needing only basic care and occasional trimming to thrive.
Light Needs
Trailing begonias need strong light to produce a full, multi-stemmed plant with lots of flowers. If you grow the plant outdoors, keep it in a spot that gets some filtered sun in the morning, but avoid full sun at midday or during the hot afternoon hours because this could burn the plant. A spot under a widely-branched tree that provides shifting sun and partial shade is ideal. Indoors, keep a houseplant in a bright spot, such as in an east window where it gets some morning sun.
If the leaves start to fade and become light green, this indicates that the begonia is getting too much light, so move the plant to a shadier spot. If the stems get extra-long, with long distances between leaf origins, this signals that the plant needs more light; in this case, move it to a brighter spot.
Water Needs
Hanging begonia plants do best when soil is evenly moist, but it's important not to over-water because this can cause constantly soggy soil which can damage the plant and, if uncorrected, might kill it. For an indoor-grown plant, water whenever the top inch or two feels dry to the touch, allowing the pot to drain fully. Never keep the pot in a water-filled saucer, because this can cause root rot.
A hanging begonia grown outdoors needs watering whenever its soil surface feels dry. It's a good idea to check this every few days during the summer, because hot weather can cause the soil to dry quickly.
Whether grown indoors or in the garden, a begonia slows its growth during winter when it rests, so cut back watering during the winter months.
Fertilizing Guidelines
Fertilizing a hanging begonia every other time you give it water helps keep the plant growing and flowering during it active season, usually from spring until early fall. Use a balanced formula such as 20-20-20, diluting it half-strength or about 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but check your product label for further directions.
To boost flowering, you can switch to a high-phosphorus formula just before flowering starts, usually in early summer, to help set more flower buds. For example, use a 15-30-15 formula, diluting 1 tablespoon per gallon of water for garden plants and 1/2 teaspoon per gallon for houseplants, but check the product label for additional information. Feed the plant every one or two weeks until the blooming season ends, usually in fall.
Withhold fertilizer during winter to give the plant a rest.
Trimming and Other Care
Trailing begonias in hanging planters can start appearing leggy as the season progresses and the stems get longer. Encourage bushier growth and lateral branching by pinching back the growing tips frequently, using your fingertips or shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading plant diseases. By varying the length of stems through trimming, you can also produce a more shapely plant. For an older plant, remove some old stems now and then to encourage new growth from the plant's base.
Begonias are usually free of significant disease problems, but they can attract several pests, including fluffy white mealybugs. Control these by touching each pest with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to destroy it. The plant might also attract spider mites, which form visible, web-like coverings on leaves and flowers. Destroy these pests by spraying the plant thoroughly with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water; repeat this every two weeks as needed.
Frost Protection
If you grow a hanging begonia outdoors year round and you expect unusual cold or even a bit of frost, bring the plant indoors until weather warms. You can also leave it outdoors, but protect it by hanging a light cloth from the planter's hook so it covers the entire plant, or by placing the planter in a plastic bag that's large enough to enclose the entire plant, tying the bag's open ends to the planter's hook. Be careful when removing any covering, so that you don't injure stems or flower buds.
Light Needs
Trailing begonias need strong light to produce a full, multi-stemmed plant with lots of flowers. If you grow the plant outdoors, keep it in a spot that gets some filtered sun in the morning, but avoid full sun at midday or during the hot afternoon hours because this could burn the plant. A spot under a widely-branched tree that provides shifting sun and partial shade is ideal. Indoors, keep a houseplant in a bright spot, such as in an east window where it gets some morning sun.
If the leaves start to fade and become light green, this indicates that the begonia is getting too much light, so move the plant to a shadier spot. If the stems get extra-long, with long distances between leaf origins, this signals that the plant needs more light; in this case, move it to a brighter spot.
Water Needs
Hanging begonia plants do best when soil is evenly moist, but it's important not to over-water because this can cause constantly soggy soil which can damage the plant and, if uncorrected, might kill it. For an indoor-grown plant, water whenever the top inch or two feels dry to the touch, allowing the pot to drain fully. Never keep the pot in a water-filled saucer, because this can cause root rot.
A hanging begonia grown outdoors needs watering whenever its soil surface feels dry. It's a good idea to check this every few days during the summer, because hot weather can cause the soil to dry quickly.
Whether grown indoors or in the garden, a begonia slows its growth during winter when it rests, so cut back watering during the winter months.
Fertilizing Guidelines
Fertilizing a hanging begonia every other time you give it water helps keep the plant growing and flowering during it active season, usually from spring until early fall. Use a balanced formula such as 20-20-20, diluting it half-strength or about 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but check your product label for further directions.
To boost flowering, you can switch to a high-phosphorus formula just before flowering starts, usually in early summer, to help set more flower buds. For example, use a 15-30-15 formula, diluting 1 tablespoon per gallon of water for garden plants and 1/2 teaspoon per gallon for houseplants, but check the product label for additional information. Feed the plant every one or two weeks until the blooming season ends, usually in fall.
Withhold fertilizer during winter to give the plant a rest.
Trimming and Other Care
Trailing begonias in hanging planters can start appearing leggy as the season progresses and the stems get longer. Encourage bushier growth and lateral branching by pinching back the growing tips frequently, using your fingertips or shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading plant diseases. By varying the length of stems through trimming, you can also produce a more shapely plant. For an older plant, remove some old stems now and then to encourage new growth from the plant's base.
Begonias are usually free of significant disease problems, but they can attract several pests, including fluffy white mealybugs. Control these by touching each pest with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to destroy it. The plant might also attract spider mites, which form visible, web-like coverings on leaves and flowers. Destroy these pests by spraying the plant thoroughly with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water; repeat this every two weeks as needed.
Frost Protection
If you grow a hanging begonia outdoors year round and you expect unusual cold or even a bit of frost, bring the plant indoors until weather warms. You can also leave it outdoors, but protect it by hanging a light cloth from the planter's hook so it covers the entire plant, or by placing the planter in a plastic bag that's large enough to enclose the entire plant, tying the bag's open ends to the planter's hook. Be careful when removing any covering, so that you don't injure stems or flower buds.
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