文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) spears are the new shoots of asparagus plants that grow in spring. Asparagus grows from seed, and plants live 20 to 30 years in good growing conditions. In U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8, asparagus is hardy, and plants grow 3 to 5 feet tall. Young asparagus shoots can sometimes cause skin irritation, and the red berries produced by female asparagus plants are poisonous.
Asparagus Roots
Asparagus root systems are called crowns. Asparagus growers start plants from seed and sell asparagus crowns that are one or two years old. Each crown has a central bud, and thick roots spreading out sideways. Shoots grow from the central bud.
Asparagus roots grow horizontally, not vertically. Over time, they form a wide, tuberous mat. When growing asparagus, it's important to select a growing area that can be left undisturbed for years. After planting, asparagus roots should not be moved.
Asparagus Plants
Asparagus plants develop many branched stems, which die down at the end of the growing season. Shoots develop daily on asparagus plants in spring. Newly planted crowns can produce shoots five or six weeks after planting. After a crop of young shoots is harvested, later shoots are allowed to develop so the plants can store energy for next year's crop.
As shoots grow, they produce many stems, which branch off into smaller stems. Rings of thin, hairlike structures appear on the smaller stems, which give mature asparagus plants a feathery appearance. True asparagus leaves are scalelike and tiny, and they can be seen most easily on new shoots. Asparagus stems turn yellow and wither in fall, often after the first frost.
Female and Male Asparagus
Asparagus plants are female or male. Female plants produce more stems than male plants, but the stems are thinner. Female asparagus plants also produce bright red summer berries, which contain the plant's seeds. Seeds from fallen berries can create problems the following year, when the asparagus bed becomes overrun with asparagus seedlings.
Newer varieties of asparagus are mostly male or all male plants. Male plants put all their energy into shoot production and don't waste energy on producing fruit. They also don't create problems with asparagus seedlings.
New Varieties
New asparagus varieties offer disease resistance and a range of colors. Asparagus "Jersey Knight" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Knight") is resistant to rust, fusarium wilt, and root and crown rot. Asparagus "Purple Passion" (Asparagus "Purple Passion") features purple spears, though these turn green when cooked. "Jersey Knight" and "Purple Passion" are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 10.
Asparagus "Jersey Giant" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Giant"), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 7, produces green spears with purple bracts. Bracts are leaflike structures. "Jersey Giant" produces two to three times more spears than some older varieties.
Asparagus Roots
Asparagus root systems are called crowns. Asparagus growers start plants from seed and sell asparagus crowns that are one or two years old. Each crown has a central bud, and thick roots spreading out sideways. Shoots grow from the central bud.
Asparagus roots grow horizontally, not vertically. Over time, they form a wide, tuberous mat. When growing asparagus, it's important to select a growing area that can be left undisturbed for years. After planting, asparagus roots should not be moved.
Asparagus Plants
Asparagus plants develop many branched stems, which die down at the end of the growing season. Shoots develop daily on asparagus plants in spring. Newly planted crowns can produce shoots five or six weeks after planting. After a crop of young shoots is harvested, later shoots are allowed to develop so the plants can store energy for next year's crop.
As shoots grow, they produce many stems, which branch off into smaller stems. Rings of thin, hairlike structures appear on the smaller stems, which give mature asparagus plants a feathery appearance. True asparagus leaves are scalelike and tiny, and they can be seen most easily on new shoots. Asparagus stems turn yellow and wither in fall, often after the first frost.
Female and Male Asparagus
Asparagus plants are female or male. Female plants produce more stems than male plants, but the stems are thinner. Female asparagus plants also produce bright red summer berries, which contain the plant's seeds. Seeds from fallen berries can create problems the following year, when the asparagus bed becomes overrun with asparagus seedlings.
Newer varieties of asparagus are mostly male or all male plants. Male plants put all their energy into shoot production and don't waste energy on producing fruit. They also don't create problems with asparagus seedlings.
New Varieties
New asparagus varieties offer disease resistance and a range of colors. Asparagus "Jersey Knight" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Knight") is resistant to rust, fusarium wilt, and root and crown rot. Asparagus "Purple Passion" (Asparagus "Purple Passion") features purple spears, though these turn green when cooked. "Jersey Knight" and "Purple Passion" are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 10.
Asparagus "Jersey Giant" (Asparagus officinalis "Jersey Giant"), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 7, produces green spears with purple bracts. Bracts are leaflike structures. "Jersey Giant" produces two to three times more spears than some older varieties.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Your kitchen trash can may contain a vegetable garden just waiting to happen. The roots, shoots and seeds of many plants can regrow instead of languishing in the garbage. Success will vary because grocery store plants are often grown from sterile hybrids or they are treated to retard growth, but with experimentation you may grow a successful garden for just the cost of time.
Plant Choices
Not all scraps are suitable gardening stock. Seeds from summer and winter squashes (Curcubita spp.), peppers (Capsicum annuum) and beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) will often sprout and grow, but the fruits may not be the same quality as the original. You can regrow whole garlic bulbs (Allium sativum), a biennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, from a single leftover clove, for example. Some plants grow back from their roots if you carefully save them. Ginger (Zingiber officinale), which grows in USDA zones 9 through 12, along with green onions (Allium cepa) and the leafy tops of radishes (Raphanus sativus) are some examples.
Pick a Spot
The season and your climate help determine whether pots or beds are the better choice. Spring and summer vegetables, like squash and peppers, grow best outdoors in a bed or container garden. Garlic performs best in a bed in almost any climate, while tender ginger requires a pot so you can overwinter it indoors in cool climates. Cool-season vegetables, like radish tops, do well both outdoors or inside. If you plant in containers, use pots with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Successful Planting
Preparing to plant is just as important as selecting the right kitchen scraps. Most vegetables need rich, well-draining soil in an area that receives six or more hours of daily sun. When planting seeds, sow larger seeds like beans and squash 1 to 2 inches deep, and smaller seeds, such as peppers, 1/4 inch deep. Leave the top of the root attached to leafy greens, such as radish, and push the cut end of the root into the soil slightly. Garlic cloves are planted 1 to 2 inches deep in late fall. For ginger, cut the root into sections , with each section containing at least one growing node, which resembles a raised bump. Plant those sections. If you plant in pots, fill them with a well-drained, moistened potting soil.
Keep Them Growing
Vegetables usually need about 1 inch of water a week. Container plants need watering when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Water these until the excess water drains from the pot's bottom. Although fertilizer helps a plant grow, wait to fertilize until after new growth begins to emerge from the planted scraps, or wait for about four to six weeks if you plant seeds. Each vegetable has its own fertilizer requirements, but a general application of a 24-8-16 soluble fertilizer, diluted at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon of water and applied at 14-day intervals, is suitable for most container vegetables. For garden beds, sprinkle 4 tablespoons of a slow-release 12-4-8 blend over every 4 square feet of soil six weeks after planting, keeping the fertilizer off the leaves and stems of the plants.
Plant Choices
Not all scraps are suitable gardening stock. Seeds from summer and winter squashes (Curcubita spp.), peppers (Capsicum annuum) and beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) will often sprout and grow, but the fruits may not be the same quality as the original. You can regrow whole garlic bulbs (Allium sativum), a biennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, from a single leftover clove, for example. Some plants grow back from their roots if you carefully save them. Ginger (Zingiber officinale), which grows in USDA zones 9 through 12, along with green onions (Allium cepa) and the leafy tops of radishes (Raphanus sativus) are some examples.
Pick a Spot
The season and your climate help determine whether pots or beds are the better choice. Spring and summer vegetables, like squash and peppers, grow best outdoors in a bed or container garden. Garlic performs best in a bed in almost any climate, while tender ginger requires a pot so you can overwinter it indoors in cool climates. Cool-season vegetables, like radish tops, do well both outdoors or inside. If you plant in containers, use pots with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Successful Planting
Preparing to plant is just as important as selecting the right kitchen scraps. Most vegetables need rich, well-draining soil in an area that receives six or more hours of daily sun. When planting seeds, sow larger seeds like beans and squash 1 to 2 inches deep, and smaller seeds, such as peppers, 1/4 inch deep. Leave the top of the root attached to leafy greens, such as radish, and push the cut end of the root into the soil slightly. Garlic cloves are planted 1 to 2 inches deep in late fall. For ginger, cut the root into sections , with each section containing at least one growing node, which resembles a raised bump. Plant those sections. If you plant in pots, fill them with a well-drained, moistened potting soil.
Keep Them Growing
Vegetables usually need about 1 inch of water a week. Container plants need watering when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Water these until the excess water drains from the pot's bottom. Although fertilizer helps a plant grow, wait to fertilize until after new growth begins to emerge from the planted scraps, or wait for about four to six weeks if you plant seeds. Each vegetable has its own fertilizer requirements, but a general application of a 24-8-16 soluble fertilizer, diluted at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon of water and applied at 14-day intervals, is suitable for most container vegetables. For garden beds, sprinkle 4 tablespoons of a slow-release 12-4-8 blend over every 4 square feet of soil six weeks after planting, keeping the fertilizer off the leaves and stems of the plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Vine-variety cucumbers, Cucumis sativus, require a lot of space to produce a healthy, continuous crop throughout the season. Using tomato cages to train cucumbers for vertical growth gives the plants lots of breathing room, aids in the formation of perfectly straight fruits and helps keep pests and soil-borne diseases at bay. When garden space is at a premium, training cucumbers vertically can also free up a great deal of garden real estate.
Play in the Dirt
Cucumbers favor well-draining, slightly acidic soil with a pH level of 5.8 to 6.5. Have the soil tested to determine its exact pH level and follow the the testing laboratory's recommendations regarding the application of amendments to correct the soil's pH. Incorporate 1 to 2 inches of organic compost and sand into the soil to create a nutrient-rich base for the new plants. The Clemson Cooperative Extension recommends adding a pre-planting application of a 5-10-10 fertilizer if soil has not been tested.
Feel the Heat
Cucumbers are tender annual vegetables that refuse to germinate in cold soil and thrive in temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. For best results, start cucumber seeds directly outdoors after all chance of frost has passed and the soil reaches 70 degrees Fahrenheit at a depth of at least 1 inch.
Early to Rise
For an early harvest, start cucumber seeds indoors two to four weeks before the last expected frost date. Sow two to three seeds in peat pots or pellets and thin to one seedling in each pot after sprouting. Transplant the seedlings to the outdoor planting site when all chance of frost has passed, soil temperature measures 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and the seedlings have developed three to four sets of true leaves. Plant established seedlings at least 10 to 12 inches apart beneath tomato cages.
Containing the Cucumbers
Choose sturdily constructed tomato cages, at least 3 to 4 feet tall, that won't be easily rattled by a stiff breeze or the weight of the developing cucumbers. Insert the cages into the soil directly above the planting location and then sow 1 to 2 cucumber seeds inside each cage, at a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch, spaced approximately 4 to 6 inches apart. Once the vines begin to grow, nudge them toward the sides of the cages where their grabby tendrils can attach to the cage wires as they begin growing in an upright fashion. As the vines lengthen, they can be secured to the cages with loosely tied twine until they reach the top of the cage and start to hang down.
Water, Water, Everywhere
Cucumbers require consistent moisture during the growing season and especially when the blooms appear and fruits begin to set. When cucumbers are water-stressed, fruits can become misshapen and develop an unpleasant bitter flavor. Water cucumbers at least once per week, making sure to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. If the soil is sandy, additional watering will be required to keep the soil adequately hydrated. To help with moisture retention throughout the season, add a 1- to 2-inch layer of organic mulch over the planting location.
It's Dinner Time
Cucumbers, which are moderate feeders, need a dose of nitrogen fertilizer when the plants start to vine and about a week after blooms first appear. The University of Minnesota recommends adding 1/2 cup of a 46-0-0 fertilizer for every 25 feet of planting space. Apply the fertilizer along the side of the row and approximately 4 to 6 inches from each plant. Additional feedings may not be necessary if the soil is enriched with organic compost.
Play in the Dirt
Cucumbers favor well-draining, slightly acidic soil with a pH level of 5.8 to 6.5. Have the soil tested to determine its exact pH level and follow the the testing laboratory's recommendations regarding the application of amendments to correct the soil's pH. Incorporate 1 to 2 inches of organic compost and sand into the soil to create a nutrient-rich base for the new plants. The Clemson Cooperative Extension recommends adding a pre-planting application of a 5-10-10 fertilizer if soil has not been tested.
Feel the Heat
Cucumbers are tender annual vegetables that refuse to germinate in cold soil and thrive in temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. For best results, start cucumber seeds directly outdoors after all chance of frost has passed and the soil reaches 70 degrees Fahrenheit at a depth of at least 1 inch.
Early to Rise
For an early harvest, start cucumber seeds indoors two to four weeks before the last expected frost date. Sow two to three seeds in peat pots or pellets and thin to one seedling in each pot after sprouting. Transplant the seedlings to the outdoor planting site when all chance of frost has passed, soil temperature measures 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and the seedlings have developed three to four sets of true leaves. Plant established seedlings at least 10 to 12 inches apart beneath tomato cages.
Containing the Cucumbers
Choose sturdily constructed tomato cages, at least 3 to 4 feet tall, that won't be easily rattled by a stiff breeze or the weight of the developing cucumbers. Insert the cages into the soil directly above the planting location and then sow 1 to 2 cucumber seeds inside each cage, at a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch, spaced approximately 4 to 6 inches apart. Once the vines begin to grow, nudge them toward the sides of the cages where their grabby tendrils can attach to the cage wires as they begin growing in an upright fashion. As the vines lengthen, they can be secured to the cages with loosely tied twine until they reach the top of the cage and start to hang down.
Water, Water, Everywhere
Cucumbers require consistent moisture during the growing season and especially when the blooms appear and fruits begin to set. When cucumbers are water-stressed, fruits can become misshapen and develop an unpleasant bitter flavor. Water cucumbers at least once per week, making sure to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. If the soil is sandy, additional watering will be required to keep the soil adequately hydrated. To help with moisture retention throughout the season, add a 1- to 2-inch layer of organic mulch over the planting location.
It's Dinner Time
Cucumbers, which are moderate feeders, need a dose of nitrogen fertilizer when the plants start to vine and about a week after blooms first appear. The University of Minnesota recommends adding 1/2 cup of a 46-0-0 fertilizer for every 25 feet of planting space. Apply the fertilizer along the side of the row and approximately 4 to 6 inches from each plant. Additional feedings may not be necessary if the soil is enriched with organic compost.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月21日
Nothing spices up cooking like fresh jalapeno peppers. Buying them at the store can be costly and inconvenient. Since jalapeno pepper plants are fairly easy to grow, why not add a few plants to your kitchen and enjoy fresh peppers year round?
Step 1
Buy healthy looking jalapeno plants at your home and garden store. Look for leaves that are a rich green in color, and that when pinched gently tend to spring back to life. Avoid plants that seem overly dry or that smell moldy. Be prepared to re-pot your plant once you bring it home.
Step 2
Line the bottom of the plant pot with small rocks or stones. This provides ample drainage for your jalapeno plant. Too much moisture will cause your plant to rot and won't yield any peppers.
Use good soil in your jalapeno plant. Rich soils are made specifically for plant and flower growth. Nutrients in rich soil fall into two categories; non-mineral nutrients and mineral nutrients. Non-mineral nutrient include hydrogen, carbon and oxygen. Mineral nutrients include nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, copper, iron, chloride, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Re-pot your jalapeno plant using a dark, nutrient-rich soil.
Step 4
Place your jalapeno plant in a window that receives at least a couple of hours of direct sunlight each day. Water your plant two to three times per week.
Step 5
Transfer your jalapeno plant into a larger pot when it reaches about one foot in height. Full grown plants may grow up to two feet high, so plan accordingly for that kind of growth.
Step 6
Pluck off any dried or dead leaves as needed. Allow the peppers to ripen on the plant for optimal taste.
Step 1
Buy healthy looking jalapeno plants at your home and garden store. Look for leaves that are a rich green in color, and that when pinched gently tend to spring back to life. Avoid plants that seem overly dry or that smell moldy. Be prepared to re-pot your plant once you bring it home.
Step 2
Line the bottom of the plant pot with small rocks or stones. This provides ample drainage for your jalapeno plant. Too much moisture will cause your plant to rot and won't yield any peppers.
Use good soil in your jalapeno plant. Rich soils are made specifically for plant and flower growth. Nutrients in rich soil fall into two categories; non-mineral nutrients and mineral nutrients. Non-mineral nutrient include hydrogen, carbon and oxygen. Mineral nutrients include nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, boron, copper, iron, chloride, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Re-pot your jalapeno plant using a dark, nutrient-rich soil.
Step 4
Place your jalapeno plant in a window that receives at least a couple of hours of direct sunlight each day. Water your plant two to three times per week.
Step 5
Transfer your jalapeno plant into a larger pot when it reaches about one foot in height. Full grown plants may grow up to two feet high, so plan accordingly for that kind of growth.
Step 6
Pluck off any dried or dead leaves as needed. Allow the peppers to ripen on the plant for optimal taste.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月19日
Vining cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are annual plants, and they grow well vertically on a trellis, poles and other upright supports. Growing cucumbers vertically saves space, reduces leaf diseases and pest attack, and provides the heavier harvests than if the plants are grown along the ground. Another benefit of growing cucumbers vertically is that Asian and oriental varieties produce long, straight fruit.
Growing Spots
Fertile, organically rich, freely draining soil and at least six hours of direct sun every day provide the best growing conditions for cucumbers. The soil pH should be around 7.0, which is neutral, and its temperature should be at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit for healthy growth. Cucumbers grow best in warm conditions.
Space cucumbers 8 to 15 inches apart or 10 inches apart if you're growing cucumbers up a trellis.
Supports for Cucumbers
Supports for cucumbers should be at least 6 feet tall. Cucumbers grow up to 6 feet tall and wide, and often grow 3 to 5 feet long before setting fruit. Set up the supports before planting cucumbers to avoid disturbing the plants' roots. Trellis provides a sturdy support, or you can grow cucumbers up bamboo poles or from hanging baskets.
Push three 8-foot bamboo poles 1 foot into the soil 1 foot apart in a triangle. Tie the top ends together with twine to make a pyramidal shape, and plant one cucumber at the base of each pole.
Another option is to grow cucumbers in hanging baskets, allowing the plants to trail. 'Pot Luck' is a cucumber variety that grows well in hanging baskets. Grow one cucumber in each basket.
Water Needs
Cucumbers are thirsty plants that need frequent watering to grow and fruit well. The soil around their roots should be evenly moist, not dry and crumbly or wet and soggy. Wilting leaves are a sign of under- or overwatered cucumbers.
Water cucumbers when the soil is dry to a depth of 1/2 inch. Apply enough water to moisten the soil to the depth of the root balls. In hot, dry weather, cucumbers may need water every day.
Fertilizer for Cucumbers
Fertilizing cucumbers twice during the growing season provides the best results. Sprinkle 1 cup of 10-10-10 or 10-20-10 fertilizer along each 10 feet of row, or 2 tablespoons around each plant, at planting, and apply 1/2 cup or 1 tablespoon of the same fertilizer when the cucumbers are 10 to 12 inches tall. . Gently rake the fertilizer into the soil surface and water it into the soil.
Training and Pinching
Cucumbers sometimes need help to grow up their support, and pinching to control their size when they grow too tall. When cucumber shoots stray from the trellis or other support, tie them to the support with pieces of soft twine.
If cucumbers grow too tall for their support, pinch off the shoot tips. Stopping upward growth in this way encourages sideways growth and more fruits.
Cucumber Varieties
Most vining cucumbers grow well vertically in small spaces. "Japanese Climbing" produces fruit 7 to 9 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter, and "Marketmore 76" is a high-yielding variety with fruit 8 to 9 inches long and 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter. "Stallion White Cucumber" is named for its white or pale green fruit, which grow 6 to 8 inches long. Another variety to consider is "Yamamoto Extra Long" for the novelty of its 24-inch-long fruit.
Growing Spots
Fertile, organically rich, freely draining soil and at least six hours of direct sun every day provide the best growing conditions for cucumbers. The soil pH should be around 7.0, which is neutral, and its temperature should be at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit for healthy growth. Cucumbers grow best in warm conditions.
Space cucumbers 8 to 15 inches apart or 10 inches apart if you're growing cucumbers up a trellis.
Supports for Cucumbers
Supports for cucumbers should be at least 6 feet tall. Cucumbers grow up to 6 feet tall and wide, and often grow 3 to 5 feet long before setting fruit. Set up the supports before planting cucumbers to avoid disturbing the plants' roots. Trellis provides a sturdy support, or you can grow cucumbers up bamboo poles or from hanging baskets.
Push three 8-foot bamboo poles 1 foot into the soil 1 foot apart in a triangle. Tie the top ends together with twine to make a pyramidal shape, and plant one cucumber at the base of each pole.
Another option is to grow cucumbers in hanging baskets, allowing the plants to trail. 'Pot Luck' is a cucumber variety that grows well in hanging baskets. Grow one cucumber in each basket.
Water Needs
Cucumbers are thirsty plants that need frequent watering to grow and fruit well. The soil around their roots should be evenly moist, not dry and crumbly or wet and soggy. Wilting leaves are a sign of under- or overwatered cucumbers.
Water cucumbers when the soil is dry to a depth of 1/2 inch. Apply enough water to moisten the soil to the depth of the root balls. In hot, dry weather, cucumbers may need water every day.
Fertilizer for Cucumbers
Fertilizing cucumbers twice during the growing season provides the best results. Sprinkle 1 cup of 10-10-10 or 10-20-10 fertilizer along each 10 feet of row, or 2 tablespoons around each plant, at planting, and apply 1/2 cup or 1 tablespoon of the same fertilizer when the cucumbers are 10 to 12 inches tall. . Gently rake the fertilizer into the soil surface and water it into the soil.
Training and Pinching
Cucumbers sometimes need help to grow up their support, and pinching to control their size when they grow too tall. When cucumber shoots stray from the trellis or other support, tie them to the support with pieces of soft twine.
If cucumbers grow too tall for their support, pinch off the shoot tips. Stopping upward growth in this way encourages sideways growth and more fruits.
Cucumber Varieties
Most vining cucumbers grow well vertically in small spaces. "Japanese Climbing" produces fruit 7 to 9 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter, and "Marketmore 76" is a high-yielding variety with fruit 8 to 9 inches long and 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter. "Stallion White Cucumber" is named for its white or pale green fruit, which grow 6 to 8 inches long. Another variety to consider is "Yamamoto Extra Long" for the novelty of its 24-inch-long fruit.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月19日
Pepper plants (Capsicum spp.) are vibrant and beautiful, with their lush foliage and shiny fruit. To grow peppers in your garden, you'll need to know a whole lot more than the fact that Peter Piper picked a peck of them. You'll find a whole host of different sorts of pepper plants available, including exotic spicy peppers as well as the sweet peppers so popular in this country. Fortunately, although the days to maturity differ among pepper species, the basic info on how to grow peppers remains the same.
So Many Peppers, So Little Time
Peppers are tender, warm-season vegetables, like tomatoes. But they don't grow as big and spread as wide as tomato plants do. They also need warmer temperatures and longer time in the garden. The colorful sweet bell pepper varieties (Capsicum annuum) are the most popular in the United States and have been for years. But the vast range of other garden peppers available are gaining traction as essential parts of different ethnic eating experiences. These include chili peppers, cayenne peppers and pimiento peppers. You'll only get the full flavor in any type of peppers if you harvest them at their peak.
Planting Peppers
You get more bang for the buck if you grow peppers from seeds. Start them indoors in late winter, then move them to garden beds after spring works its magic on the temperature of the outdoor air and soil. Transplant the young pepper plants about 18 to 24 inches apart. How many to plant? A dozen plants may provide enough peppers for the average family, but with the incredible variety available, you may want to plant more.
Don't put them outside too early when they could be killed by a frost. They do best when night temperatures stay consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit. You can help your young peppers keep their roots warm by transplanting them into raised beds, mulching them well and using floating row covers.
Pepper Care
If you beef up the garden soil before you transplant the peppers, you'll likely have a healthier crop. Be sure the soil is well-drained, and work in organic compost for more fertile soil. Fertilize at the time of transplant, then again after the first peppers are set. Irrigation? It's essential to keep the soil uniformly moist, right up through harvest. Water regularly, especially during dry periods.
When to Pick a Peck
Keep your eyes on the calendar. Time from planting is an important indicator of when your peppers can be harvested. Make a note of when the plants were started. Peppers are generally ripe between 70 to 84 days later, depending in part on the type of peppers.
In most cases, bell peppers approach maturity and are ready to be harvested approximately 70 to 75 days after planting. Bell Boy and Purple Belle are ready in 70 days; Lady Bell in 72 days; Chocolate Bell in 75 days. Note that each of these pepper types changes color when they are ripe, passing from green to red (Bell Boy and Lady Bell), purple to black to red (Purple Bell) and green to brown (Chocolate Bell.) Pick the green-to-red bell peppers when they reach the color you prefer. They get sweeter as they mature, with red being the sweetest stage.
Other sweet types of peppers that you use in salads or for frying, like Gypsy or Sweet Banana, take between 65 and 70 days to mature. These types start yellow, pass to orange, then mature to red.
Hot peppers can take the longest period to ripen. While cayenne and jalapeño peppers are ripe in 70 days, pimientos take 73. And popular chili peppers take 84 days.
The actual harvest itself helps you figure out whether the peppers are ripe. Mature peppers pull off the pepper plants easily. Grasp the pepper, twist and pull to snap it off. If you are sure they're mature, you can use pruners if it is easier.
So Many Peppers, So Little Time
Peppers are tender, warm-season vegetables, like tomatoes. But they don't grow as big and spread as wide as tomato plants do. They also need warmer temperatures and longer time in the garden. The colorful sweet bell pepper varieties (Capsicum annuum) are the most popular in the United States and have been for years. But the vast range of other garden peppers available are gaining traction as essential parts of different ethnic eating experiences. These include chili peppers, cayenne peppers and pimiento peppers. You'll only get the full flavor in any type of peppers if you harvest them at their peak.
Planting Peppers
You get more bang for the buck if you grow peppers from seeds. Start them indoors in late winter, then move them to garden beds after spring works its magic on the temperature of the outdoor air and soil. Transplant the young pepper plants about 18 to 24 inches apart. How many to plant? A dozen plants may provide enough peppers for the average family, but with the incredible variety available, you may want to plant more.
Don't put them outside too early when they could be killed by a frost. They do best when night temperatures stay consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit. You can help your young peppers keep their roots warm by transplanting them into raised beds, mulching them well and using floating row covers.
Pepper Care
If you beef up the garden soil before you transplant the peppers, you'll likely have a healthier crop. Be sure the soil is well-drained, and work in organic compost for more fertile soil. Fertilize at the time of transplant, then again after the first peppers are set. Irrigation? It's essential to keep the soil uniformly moist, right up through harvest. Water regularly, especially during dry periods.
When to Pick a Peck
Keep your eyes on the calendar. Time from planting is an important indicator of when your peppers can be harvested. Make a note of when the plants were started. Peppers are generally ripe between 70 to 84 days later, depending in part on the type of peppers.
In most cases, bell peppers approach maturity and are ready to be harvested approximately 70 to 75 days after planting. Bell Boy and Purple Belle are ready in 70 days; Lady Bell in 72 days; Chocolate Bell in 75 days. Note that each of these pepper types changes color when they are ripe, passing from green to red (Bell Boy and Lady Bell), purple to black to red (Purple Bell) and green to brown (Chocolate Bell.) Pick the green-to-red bell peppers when they reach the color you prefer. They get sweeter as they mature, with red being the sweetest stage.
Other sweet types of peppers that you use in salads or for frying, like Gypsy or Sweet Banana, take between 65 and 70 days to mature. These types start yellow, pass to orange, then mature to red.
Hot peppers can take the longest period to ripen. While cayenne and jalapeño peppers are ripe in 70 days, pimientos take 73. And popular chili peppers take 84 days.
The actual harvest itself helps you figure out whether the peppers are ripe. Mature peppers pull off the pepper plants easily. Grasp the pepper, twist and pull to snap it off. If you are sure they're mature, you can use pruners if it is easier.
1
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月17日
Bean plants are one of the popular crops for homeowners to grow. They are healthful, providing essential nutrients. They also are versatile and can be used in a variety of recipes. Most bean plants also have the advantage of being able to be grown by the average backyard or hobby gardener. There are many varieties of beans, but whatever variety you plant, it is important to know how much water is necessary for its proper growth and development.
Bush and Pole Bean Watering
Bush and pole bean varieties, such as string beans or green beans, like warm soil and full sun. In a typical weather climate, water your bush and pole beans at least once a week, but only during dry spells.
If your location has not had much rain, feel the soil near the beans' roots to check whether or not it seems dry. Water the plants at the roots, and keep the plants as dry as possible. There is not a set amount of water that a bush or pole bean plant needs, but keep the soil uniformly moist at all times.
Keeping the soil moist increases the yield for bush and pole beans. Watering and keeping the ground wet is most critical when the beans flower.
Kidney, Navy, Garbanzo and Pinto Bean Watering
These beans are all of the dried beans variety. Like bush and pole beans, there is not a set amount of water for gardeners to give these growing bean plants.
The soil around the plants must be kept evenly moist while they grow and given regular water if necessary to maintain moisture. Once bean pods are fairly mature, you may stop watering to encourage the bean drying process and to prevent rotting.
Bush and Pole Bean Watering
Bush and pole bean varieties, such as string beans or green beans, like warm soil and full sun. In a typical weather climate, water your bush and pole beans at least once a week, but only during dry spells.
If your location has not had much rain, feel the soil near the beans' roots to check whether or not it seems dry. Water the plants at the roots, and keep the plants as dry as possible. There is not a set amount of water that a bush or pole bean plant needs, but keep the soil uniformly moist at all times.
Keeping the soil moist increases the yield for bush and pole beans. Watering and keeping the ground wet is most critical when the beans flower.
Kidney, Navy, Garbanzo and Pinto Bean Watering
These beans are all of the dried beans variety. Like bush and pole beans, there is not a set amount of water for gardeners to give these growing bean plants.
The soil around the plants must be kept evenly moist while they grow and given regular water if necessary to maintain moisture. Once bean pods are fairly mature, you may stop watering to encourage the bean drying process and to prevent rotting.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月17日
If you have begun your potatoes in a greenhouse or if you need to move your potatoes to another spot in the garden , your potato plants can be safely transplanted by following a few simple steps. Potato plants should be transplanted at least three weeks before harvest on a cooler day.
Step 1
Prepare the soil where the potatoes will be transplanted. The soil should be dug up, cleared of rocks and mixed with compost in the fall. Choose a location that is sunny and that is rotational--i.e., not the same place you grew potatoes last year. Rake in fertilizer two weeks before transplanting. The soil's pH level should not be higher than 6.
Step 2
Harden the soil of potatoes to be transplanted from a greenhouse by placing them outdoors. Start hardening a week before transplanting. Place them outdoors for about one hour the first day, then gradually set them out for longer each day after.
Step 3
Dig transplant holes in the ground. The holes should be approximately six inches wide and eight inches deep, varying depending on the maturity of the plants and the size of containers they were pre-grown in. The top of the soil of the plant being transplanted should sit at surface of the ground when planted. Make the holes far enough apart that the potatoes will not be overcrowded. Give room to transplants that still have growing to do. Moisten the soil evenly before transplanting.
Step 4
Dig out potato plants to be transplanted by slicing the soil around the plant with a garden trowel. Dig far enough away from the plant so as to not hit or cut the potato in the ground. Use your hand shovel or a hoe to carefully and gently pry up the plant. Keep it packed in as much soil as possible. Promptly move the plant to its transplant hole.
Step 5
Remove potatoes grown in a container by placing one hand on the soil and around the plant, turning it upside down and tapping on the bottom of the container. Promptly move them to the transplant holes.
Step 6
Fill in any gaps in the holes with soil and smooth down the surface of the ground. Do not pack in the soil too tightly. Water thoroughly. Place a layer of mulch around the stems.
Step 1
Prepare the soil where the potatoes will be transplanted. The soil should be dug up, cleared of rocks and mixed with compost in the fall. Choose a location that is sunny and that is rotational--i.e., not the same place you grew potatoes last year. Rake in fertilizer two weeks before transplanting. The soil's pH level should not be higher than 6.
Step 2
Harden the soil of potatoes to be transplanted from a greenhouse by placing them outdoors. Start hardening a week before transplanting. Place them outdoors for about one hour the first day, then gradually set them out for longer each day after.
Step 3
Dig transplant holes in the ground. The holes should be approximately six inches wide and eight inches deep, varying depending on the maturity of the plants and the size of containers they were pre-grown in. The top of the soil of the plant being transplanted should sit at surface of the ground when planted. Make the holes far enough apart that the potatoes will not be overcrowded. Give room to transplants that still have growing to do. Moisten the soil evenly before transplanting.
Step 4
Dig out potato plants to be transplanted by slicing the soil around the plant with a garden trowel. Dig far enough away from the plant so as to not hit or cut the potato in the ground. Use your hand shovel or a hoe to carefully and gently pry up the plant. Keep it packed in as much soil as possible. Promptly move the plant to its transplant hole.
Step 5
Remove potatoes grown in a container by placing one hand on the soil and around the plant, turning it upside down and tapping on the bottom of the container. Promptly move them to the transplant holes.
Step 6
Fill in any gaps in the holes with soil and smooth down the surface of the ground. Do not pack in the soil too tightly. Water thoroughly. Place a layer of mulch around the stems.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月16日
Fast-growing annual vines with yellow blooms up to 5 inches across, loofah plants (Luffa spp.) usually require a four-month growing season to produce mature gourds. Therefore, gardeners in the north may need to start them indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost. During the summer and early autumn, the heavy vines should be grown in humus-rich soil in full sun, preferably on a sturdy trellis or fence to keep their 1 to 2-foot gourds off the ground. Those fruits must be harvested before or just after the first autumn frost and are used both as bath sponges and dish scrubbers.
Pick and Peel Mature Sponges
If you live in an area with a long growing season, Jack Arnott of Cobb County Extension Service recommends that you allow your loofah gourds to dry on the vine until their skin is brown and brittle and you hear seeds rattle when you shake those gourds. Break open the skin at the blossom the end opposite the stem of the gourd to reach those seeds, if you wish to save them. It usually is easy to pick off the rest of the brittle skin with your fingers to reveal the sponge beneath. If you prefer, you can dunk the gourds in a bucket of water instead -- for any time period lasting from 5 minutes to several days -- and peel off their skins in wet strips.
Pick and Peel Immature Sponges
If your growing season isn't quite long enough, Jeanine Davis of North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension reports that you can harvest adequate sponges from gourds which have only partially yellowed, as long as their skins are beginning to slip. After you make an opening to save the seeds, grab the end of one of the fibers running the length of the gourd's ridges and pull on it to unzip the remaining skin.
Clean and Dry Sponges
Immediately plunge a less-than-mature sponge into a bucket of water to wash out any juices that remain due to its only half-dry condition. Although the sponge still will be white at that stage, it's a good idea to soak it in a bleach solution to eliminate fungi and bacteria. Mature sponges also should be immersed in bleach solution, of 4 tablespoons of bleach per 1 gallon of water, both to kill contaminants and to brighten their naturally off-white color.
After disinfecting the sponges, rinse them with clean water and spread them in the sun to dry. A porous surface works well for this purpose. You can turn screens into drying tables by laying them horizontally on top of sawhorses.
Pick and Peel Mature Sponges
If you live in an area with a long growing season, Jack Arnott of Cobb County Extension Service recommends that you allow your loofah gourds to dry on the vine until their skin is brown and brittle and you hear seeds rattle when you shake those gourds. Break open the skin at the blossom the end opposite the stem of the gourd to reach those seeds, if you wish to save them. It usually is easy to pick off the rest of the brittle skin with your fingers to reveal the sponge beneath. If you prefer, you can dunk the gourds in a bucket of water instead -- for any time period lasting from 5 minutes to several days -- and peel off their skins in wet strips.
Pick and Peel Immature Sponges
If your growing season isn't quite long enough, Jeanine Davis of North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension reports that you can harvest adequate sponges from gourds which have only partially yellowed, as long as their skins are beginning to slip. After you make an opening to save the seeds, grab the end of one of the fibers running the length of the gourd's ridges and pull on it to unzip the remaining skin.
Clean and Dry Sponges
Immediately plunge a less-than-mature sponge into a bucket of water to wash out any juices that remain due to its only half-dry condition. Although the sponge still will be white at that stage, it's a good idea to soak it in a bleach solution to eliminate fungi and bacteria. Mature sponges also should be immersed in bleach solution, of 4 tablespoons of bleach per 1 gallon of water, both to kill contaminants and to brighten their naturally off-white color.
After disinfecting the sponges, rinse them with clean water and spread them in the sun to dry. A porous surface works well for this purpose. You can turn screens into drying tables by laying them horizontally on top of sawhorses.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
Weeds are the bane of every gardener. They seem to flourish with no care or support while the plants the gardeners want require attention almost daily. Weeds steal water, nutrients, sunlight and space from vegetable plants and jeopardize the viability of the garden. Gardeners must take defensive measures to stop and control weeds to enjoy a plentiful harvest of vegetables.
Cultivation Method
Cultivating or tilling the soil around vegetable plants in a garden is an effective, nontoxic method for weed and grass removal. A day or two after a soaking rain is the best time to hand-pull weeds. Wear waterproof garden gloves; you might also want a small stool to sit on. Reach your fingers into the soil and grab the main root ball of the weed before pulling. Twist as you pull to break the weed's ancillary roots.
The use of a hoe or manual cultivator with a long handle trumps hand-pulling if weeding in the standing position is more comfortable. The tines of a cultivator loosen and turn soil, but the unwanted plants often require hand-pulling anyway.
While weeds typically grow roots near the surface of soil, some vegetable plants do as well. The closer the weed is to the vegetable plant, the greater the risk of damaging the vegetable plant's roots with cultivating tools. When working close to vegetable plants, pull weeds by hand.
The Old Farmer's Almanac reports that a German study found that cultivating soil at night resulted in a 78 percent reduction in new weed germination. Weed seeds often need only a flash of light, which turning soil provides, to start growing.
Mulching Method
Distributing a thick 3- to 4-inch layer of mulching materials around vegetable plants in your garden discourages the growth of weeds and unwanted grass. Mulch blocks the sun so new seeds cannot germinate. When spreading mulch, keep the material 2 to 3 inches away from the stems of the plants.
Keep in mind mulch modifies ground temperatures. Inorganic mulch materials such as plastic sheeting, old carpet or weed-blocking fabric can warm soil. Warm soil benefits seeds undergoing germination or newly transplanted seedlings.
However, when summer's heat arrives, organic mulch materials excel at cooling soil. Organic sources of mulch include mature compost, shredded wood, pecan shells, wood bark, grass clippings, straw, shredded leaves and newspaper.
Sawdust is a poor choice for mulch as the bacteria needed to break it down steals nitrogen from the soil and garden plants.
Vinegar Method
Weeds cannot stand up against a soaking spray of vinegar. Vinegar contains acetic acid that lowers the pH to an intolerable level. Mix 4 ounces lemon juice concentrate with 1 quart white or apple cider vinegar in mixing bowl. Stir until thoroughly mixed. Pour mixture into the spray bottle.
Spray vinegar mixture directly on the targeted weed. Coat the entire weed with the vinegar mixture. Wait to spray until the hottest part of the day. Take care to not let the spray drift over to garden plants. This vinegar mixture will kill the leaves and roots of young weeds. Established weeds with strong roots will likely require several applications. Spray established weeds daily until the roots die.
Cultivation Method
Cultivating or tilling the soil around vegetable plants in a garden is an effective, nontoxic method for weed and grass removal. A day or two after a soaking rain is the best time to hand-pull weeds. Wear waterproof garden gloves; you might also want a small stool to sit on. Reach your fingers into the soil and grab the main root ball of the weed before pulling. Twist as you pull to break the weed's ancillary roots.
The use of a hoe or manual cultivator with a long handle trumps hand-pulling if weeding in the standing position is more comfortable. The tines of a cultivator loosen and turn soil, but the unwanted plants often require hand-pulling anyway.
While weeds typically grow roots near the surface of soil, some vegetable plants do as well. The closer the weed is to the vegetable plant, the greater the risk of damaging the vegetable plant's roots with cultivating tools. When working close to vegetable plants, pull weeds by hand.
The Old Farmer's Almanac reports that a German study found that cultivating soil at night resulted in a 78 percent reduction in new weed germination. Weed seeds often need only a flash of light, which turning soil provides, to start growing.
Mulching Method
Distributing a thick 3- to 4-inch layer of mulching materials around vegetable plants in your garden discourages the growth of weeds and unwanted grass. Mulch blocks the sun so new seeds cannot germinate. When spreading mulch, keep the material 2 to 3 inches away from the stems of the plants.
Keep in mind mulch modifies ground temperatures. Inorganic mulch materials such as plastic sheeting, old carpet or weed-blocking fabric can warm soil. Warm soil benefits seeds undergoing germination or newly transplanted seedlings.
However, when summer's heat arrives, organic mulch materials excel at cooling soil. Organic sources of mulch include mature compost, shredded wood, pecan shells, wood bark, grass clippings, straw, shredded leaves and newspaper.
Sawdust is a poor choice for mulch as the bacteria needed to break it down steals nitrogen from the soil and garden plants.
Vinegar Method
Weeds cannot stand up against a soaking spray of vinegar. Vinegar contains acetic acid that lowers the pH to an intolerable level. Mix 4 ounces lemon juice concentrate with 1 quart white or apple cider vinegar in mixing bowl. Stir until thoroughly mixed. Pour mixture into the spray bottle.
Spray vinegar mixture directly on the targeted weed. Coat the entire weed with the vinegar mixture. Wait to spray until the hottest part of the day. Take care to not let the spray drift over to garden plants. This vinegar mixture will kill the leaves and roots of young weeds. Established weeds with strong roots will likely require several applications. Spray established weeds daily until the roots die.
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Missysunflo
2018年07月12日
It's been a minute since I've been on, unfortunately all my little plants have died. So I'm starting off fresh and new with these little guys!!
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月11日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy aloe and echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia.
In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance. Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Avoid overwatering, but don’t let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer:Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to include as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it in a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets.
When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties
There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant.
Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings, as they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water, since they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances.
At the same time, these little decorative plants can be grown in interesting containers such as teacups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above.
Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance. Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Avoid overwatering, but don’t let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer:Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to include as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it in a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets.
When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties
There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant.
Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings, as they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water, since they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances.
At the same time, these little decorative plants can be grown in interesting containers such as teacups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above.
Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月10日
06Growing Jade Plants
There are several species that are sold under the generic name jade plant. They are all Crassula species. Also called money plants or dollar plants, these are thought to bring good luck.
07Growing Kalanchoe
Although there are many kinds of kalanchoe, the K. blossfeldiana is the most popular. Its sprays of bright flowers make it one of the most desired houseplants around the world.
08Growing Pencil Cactus (Euphorbia tirucalli)
The pencil cactus is actually another Euphorbia species. These plants are grown for their strange, even slightly bizarre foliage.
09Growing Sempervivum
Sometimes called hen and chick plants, Sempervivum succulents are some of the hardiest: hot or cold, light or shade, they can thrive. With good care, these are magnificent accent plants.
10Creating a Succulent Dish Garden
Follow these simple, step-by-step instructions to creating a beautiful dish garden using succulents.
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Miss Chen
2018年07月10日
Succulents seem custom-made for indoor gardeners. These hardy plants can thrive for long periods in poor conditions. But given proper care, succulents are some of the most beautiful plants in the world. Learn how to care for succulents plus a few varieties we love.
01How to Grow Healthy Succulents
Succulents are some of the most rewarding plants for indoor gardeners. They're tough, beautiful, and have interesting and varied foliage. Read our best tips for caring for these plants.
02Growing Aloe
Aloe is one of the most popular succulents, grown for both its beauty and health benefits.
03Growing Desert Rose (Adenium obesum)
Desert rose is a striking plant with beautiful flowers. Beware the sap, however, which can be caustic.
04Growing Sedum Morganianum (Burro's Tail)
These beautiful succulents are trailing plants that form long, striking "tails" of tear-drop shaped leaves.
05Growing Echeveria
One of the more popular varieties, Echeveria succulents grow in tight rosettes of overlapping leaves. They are perfect indoor plants: small, beautiful and easy to care for.
01How to Grow Healthy Succulents
Succulents are some of the most rewarding plants for indoor gardeners. They're tough, beautiful, and have interesting and varied foliage. Read our best tips for caring for these plants.
02Growing Aloe
Aloe is one of the most popular succulents, grown for both its beauty and health benefits.
03Growing Desert Rose (Adenium obesum)
Desert rose is a striking plant with beautiful flowers. Beware the sap, however, which can be caustic.
04Growing Sedum Morganianum (Burro's Tail)
These beautiful succulents are trailing plants that form long, striking "tails" of tear-drop shaped leaves.
05Growing Echeveria
One of the more popular varieties, Echeveria succulents grow in tight rosettes of overlapping leaves. They are perfect indoor plants: small, beautiful and easy to care for.
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