文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月26日
1.Crassula Plants
:Succulent plants offer low maintenance and diverse shapes and textures, both in the garden and indoors. Crassula is a diverse and extensive genus of succulent plants, with about 350 species. Probably the most well-known is Jade plant (Crassula ovata). Many of us know it as a houseplant, but in warm climates, it grows into a shrub.
Many other Crassula species are much smaller, including some miniatures and creeping ground covers. They are all quite fascinating, the types of plants you see occasionally and wonder "What is that?" With the resurgence of succulent container gardening, these smaller Crassula species are becoming more readily available and their easy growing habit makes them worth getting to know.
Botanical Name
Crassula spp.
Common Names
Because of the shapes and forms of their leaves, Crassula plants lend themselves to very descriptive common names. Crassula barklyi, the 'Rattlesnake Plant', looks like the tip of the snake's tail. Crassula argentea, shown here, is called ‘Living Coral’. Crassula perforata, with it's twirling leaves stacked one on top of another is known as 'String of Buttons'. This is an intriguing genus of plants.
Hardiness Zones
Most Crassula species are only reliably hardy in USDA Zones 9 - 10, but elsewhere you could bring them indoors for the winter. They won't get as large as plants grown outdoors, but they make great houseplants.
Sun Exposure
Full sun to partial shade. Most Crassula plants need some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color. A site with morning sun and afternoon shade would be perfect.
Mature Plant Size
Size will vary with species and variety, from shrubs several feet tall to tiny specimens of a couple of inches.
Bloom Period
Spring and summer. Some varieties of Crassula have lovely flowers and others are insignificant. Many gardeners remove the flowers that are not particularly showy.
Design Tips for Crassula
The smaller Crassula are perfect container plants - low maintenance, evergreen and eye-catching. If you have the climate, the plants look terrific tucked into and hanging over walls.
Jade plants in their natural element will be one of the easiest to maintain plants in your garden. Their dark, glossy green color is a great foil for almost any flower color.
Suggested Crassula Varieties to Grow
There are so many to choose from, you may become a collector. Here are a few that might catch your eye.
Crassula "Morgan’s Beauty": Thick silver leaves dusted in white, with pretty pink late spring flowers. Grows about 8 inches wide.
Crassula erosula "Campfire'": Long branching leaves turn blazing red in winter. A clump former that grows about 1 ft. tall and spreads 3 ft. wide.
Crassula pellucida subsp. marginalis "Variegata": a flowing mass of heart-shaped leaves variegated in pink, green and creamy yellow. Nice in a hanging pot.
Crassula perforata: Known as the stacked Crassula, their leaves rotate around a central stem, giving them their common name, String of Buttons'.
2.Growing and Caring for Crassula
Crassula Growing Tips
Soil: Crassula plants need very well draining soil, but they are not particular about soil pH. Sandy or even rocky soil is fine.
Water: As succulents, they don't need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Feeding: Feed sparingly. You can give your plants a little organic fertilizer in mid-spring, as they start actively growing.
Propagation: Crassula plants are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings.
Caring for Your Crassula Plants
Crassula can be sensitive to temperature. Too hot and they will go dormant and drop their lower leaves. Too cold and they will simply pout, not doing much of anything. Other than that, they laugh off both neglect and abuse.
Stacking Crassulas send out suckers, which is really only a problem when grown in the ground. However they are slow growers and can be controlled with a little effort.
When plants start to get straggly or leggy, don't be afraid to cut them back.
Pests and Problems
Keep an eye out for the usual succulent pests: aphids, mealy bugs and spider mites. The biggest problem is root rot and sparse watering will help avoid that.
:Succulent plants offer low maintenance and diverse shapes and textures, both in the garden and indoors. Crassula is a diverse and extensive genus of succulent plants, with about 350 species. Probably the most well-known is Jade plant (Crassula ovata). Many of us know it as a houseplant, but in warm climates, it grows into a shrub.
Many other Crassula species are much smaller, including some miniatures and creeping ground covers. They are all quite fascinating, the types of plants you see occasionally and wonder "What is that?" With the resurgence of succulent container gardening, these smaller Crassula species are becoming more readily available and their easy growing habit makes them worth getting to know.
Botanical Name
Crassula spp.
Common Names
Because of the shapes and forms of their leaves, Crassula plants lend themselves to very descriptive common names. Crassula barklyi, the 'Rattlesnake Plant', looks like the tip of the snake's tail. Crassula argentea, shown here, is called ‘Living Coral’. Crassula perforata, with it's twirling leaves stacked one on top of another is known as 'String of Buttons'. This is an intriguing genus of plants.
Hardiness Zones
Most Crassula species are only reliably hardy in USDA Zones 9 - 10, but elsewhere you could bring them indoors for the winter. They won't get as large as plants grown outdoors, but they make great houseplants.
Sun Exposure
Full sun to partial shade. Most Crassula plants need some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color. A site with morning sun and afternoon shade would be perfect.
Mature Plant Size
Size will vary with species and variety, from shrubs several feet tall to tiny specimens of a couple of inches.
Bloom Period
Spring and summer. Some varieties of Crassula have lovely flowers and others are insignificant. Many gardeners remove the flowers that are not particularly showy.
Design Tips for Crassula
The smaller Crassula are perfect container plants - low maintenance, evergreen and eye-catching. If you have the climate, the plants look terrific tucked into and hanging over walls.
Jade plants in their natural element will be one of the easiest to maintain plants in your garden. Their dark, glossy green color is a great foil for almost any flower color.
Suggested Crassula Varieties to Grow
There are so many to choose from, you may become a collector. Here are a few that might catch your eye.
Crassula "Morgan’s Beauty": Thick silver leaves dusted in white, with pretty pink late spring flowers. Grows about 8 inches wide.
Crassula erosula "Campfire'": Long branching leaves turn blazing red in winter. A clump former that grows about 1 ft. tall and spreads 3 ft. wide.
Crassula pellucida subsp. marginalis "Variegata": a flowing mass of heart-shaped leaves variegated in pink, green and creamy yellow. Nice in a hanging pot.
Crassula perforata: Known as the stacked Crassula, their leaves rotate around a central stem, giving them their common name, String of Buttons'.
2.Growing and Caring for Crassula
Crassula Growing Tips
Soil: Crassula plants need very well draining soil, but they are not particular about soil pH. Sandy or even rocky soil is fine.
Water: As succulents, they don't need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Feeding: Feed sparingly. You can give your plants a little organic fertilizer in mid-spring, as they start actively growing.
Propagation: Crassula plants are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings.
Caring for Your Crassula Plants
Crassula can be sensitive to temperature. Too hot and they will go dormant and drop their lower leaves. Too cold and they will simply pout, not doing much of anything. Other than that, they laugh off both neglect and abuse.
Stacking Crassulas send out suckers, which is really only a problem when grown in the ground. However they are slow growers and can be controlled with a little effort.
When plants start to get straggly or leggy, don't be afraid to cut them back.
Pests and Problems
Keep an eye out for the usual succulent pests: aphids, mealy bugs and spider mites. The biggest problem is root rot and sparse watering will help avoid that.
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1
文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月26日
1.Senecio Plants
Senecio is a very large genus of plants, with over 1,000 species dispersed around the world. Some are lovely and others, like the groundsels and ragworts, are noxious weeds. Many, such as Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria), are tender perennials.
This profile covers the succulents. There are about 100 succulent Senecios, including a few oddities that are not really suited to the garden, although they are certainly interesting. There are some large shrubs, but many are small, trailing plants or spreading ground covers. As with most succulents, they are very drought and heat tolerant and not very cold tolerant.
Many Senecio species are toxic to animals. Use care and do not plant where animals or kids might be tempted to munch on them.
Leaves: The leaves are thick and fleshy and can be deep green, bluish or even striped. Senecio succulent leaves vary widely in shape. Some are round, some banana-shaped, some stand upright.
Flowers: Senecio flowers form in clusters, on long stems. Different species bloom at times throughout the year. The flowers persist for weeks. Shapes include red or white spires and yellow daisy-like flowers, but it is really the foliage that interests most gardeners.
Botanical Name
Senecio spp.
Common Name
There is no common name for the whole group of Senecio plants. Each species has its own common name or names.
Cold Hardiness
Most fall somewhere around USDA Hardiness Zones 9 - 11. A few Senecio species can tolerate brief periods of cold or dampness, but prolonged exposure will turn them to mush.
Sun Exposure
Being succulents, they will grow best in full sun.
Mature Plant Size
Most Senecio plants are low growing, under 1 ft. (30 cm) tall. Depending on species, they may spread out or trail down about 1 ft. (20 cm).
Bloom Period
Senecio succulents are grown for their interesting shapes and leaves. They do bloom, at different times during the year, but not all of them bloom in cultivation as well as they do in the wild.
Using Senecio Plants in Your Garden Design
In warmer climates, you can use these plants as ground covers, rock garden plants, and specimens. Most are on the small side. These are curiosities and look best in containers, either mixed or alone. In climates with cold winters, growing them in containers will allow you to bring them indoors, as houseplants.
Suggested Varieties:
Senecio crassissimus - "Vertical Leaf Senecio": Bluish, flattened leaves on an upright plant. An easy grower that can handle some frost. 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) H x 18 inches (45 cm) W. USDA Hardiness Zones 10 - 11.
Senecio haworthii - "Cocoon Plant": Cocoon refers to the shape of the gray leaves. They form a prostrate bush but need periodic renewal. 1 ft. (30 cm) H x 3 ft. (90 cm) W. USDA Hardiness Zones 9 - 11.
Senecio radicans - "String of Bananas": Puffing, crescent moon-shaped leaves punctuate long stems. More tolerant of shade and moisture than most species. 6-12 in. (15-30 cm) H x 9-12 in. (22-30 cm) W. Zones 10 - 11.
Senecio rowleyanus "String of Beads or Pearls": Dangling stems of round leaves. Thrives on neglect. A trailing plant that gets several ft. long. Zones 8 - 10.
Senecio serpens - "Blue Chalk Sticks", "Blue Ice Plant":Short, steel blue, tubular leaves. (Several species go by the same common names as this plant.) 12-18 in. (30-45 cm) H x 18-24 in. (45-60 cm) W. Zones 10 - 11.
2.Growing and Caring for Succulent Senecio Plants
Soil: Senecio planats don't seem to be particular about soil pH. Something in the neural range (6.0 - 7.0) would be fine. More importantly, make sure the soil is on the sandy side and well-draining soil. Plants will rot if left damp.
Planting: Senecio plants can be grown from either seed or cuttings. Seeds require warm temperatures (55 F.) and constant moisture to germinate.
Cuttings are easier and faster. Cut during the growing season, early spring to fall. Root in sandy soil, in containers.
Caring for Your Senecio Plants
Established plants are extremely drought tolerant. They do need some water, during the summer, but do not leave the soil wet for prolonged periods. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant.
Since they are growing in sandy soil, nutrients will need to be replenished. Fertilize annually, but lightly. Too much fertilizer will cause a lot of leggy growth.
Taller varieties can get floppy. You can prune them back to where the stem is firm, in very early spring. You can even root the cuttings.
Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring. If you are growing them in containers, they enjoy spending the summer outdoors. Wait until there is no danger of frost and move them back indoors in the fall.
Pests & Problems of Senecio
Few pests bother Senecio. They can occasionally be affected by scale and mealy bugs. Rabbits found my String of Pearls quite tasty.
Senecio is a very large genus of plants, with over 1,000 species dispersed around the world. Some are lovely and others, like the groundsels and ragworts, are noxious weeds. Many, such as Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria), are tender perennials.
This profile covers the succulents. There are about 100 succulent Senecios, including a few oddities that are not really suited to the garden, although they are certainly interesting. There are some large shrubs, but many are small, trailing plants or spreading ground covers. As with most succulents, they are very drought and heat tolerant and not very cold tolerant.
Many Senecio species are toxic to animals. Use care and do not plant where animals or kids might be tempted to munch on them.
Leaves: The leaves are thick and fleshy and can be deep green, bluish or even striped. Senecio succulent leaves vary widely in shape. Some are round, some banana-shaped, some stand upright.
Flowers: Senecio flowers form in clusters, on long stems. Different species bloom at times throughout the year. The flowers persist for weeks. Shapes include red or white spires and yellow daisy-like flowers, but it is really the foliage that interests most gardeners.
Botanical Name
Senecio spp.
Common Name
There is no common name for the whole group of Senecio plants. Each species has its own common name or names.
Cold Hardiness
Most fall somewhere around USDA Hardiness Zones 9 - 11. A few Senecio species can tolerate brief periods of cold or dampness, but prolonged exposure will turn them to mush.
Sun Exposure
Being succulents, they will grow best in full sun.
Mature Plant Size
Most Senecio plants are low growing, under 1 ft. (30 cm) tall. Depending on species, they may spread out or trail down about 1 ft. (20 cm).
Bloom Period
Senecio succulents are grown for their interesting shapes and leaves. They do bloom, at different times during the year, but not all of them bloom in cultivation as well as they do in the wild.
Using Senecio Plants in Your Garden Design
In warmer climates, you can use these plants as ground covers, rock garden plants, and specimens. Most are on the small side. These are curiosities and look best in containers, either mixed or alone. In climates with cold winters, growing them in containers will allow you to bring them indoors, as houseplants.
Suggested Varieties:
Senecio crassissimus - "Vertical Leaf Senecio": Bluish, flattened leaves on an upright plant. An easy grower that can handle some frost. 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) H x 18 inches (45 cm) W. USDA Hardiness Zones 10 - 11.
Senecio haworthii - "Cocoon Plant": Cocoon refers to the shape of the gray leaves. They form a prostrate bush but need periodic renewal. 1 ft. (30 cm) H x 3 ft. (90 cm) W. USDA Hardiness Zones 9 - 11.
Senecio radicans - "String of Bananas": Puffing, crescent moon-shaped leaves punctuate long stems. More tolerant of shade and moisture than most species. 6-12 in. (15-30 cm) H x 9-12 in. (22-30 cm) W. Zones 10 - 11.
Senecio rowleyanus "String of Beads or Pearls": Dangling stems of round leaves. Thrives on neglect. A trailing plant that gets several ft. long. Zones 8 - 10.
Senecio serpens - "Blue Chalk Sticks", "Blue Ice Plant":Short, steel blue, tubular leaves. (Several species go by the same common names as this plant.) 12-18 in. (30-45 cm) H x 18-24 in. (45-60 cm) W. Zones 10 - 11.
2.Growing and Caring for Succulent Senecio Plants
Soil: Senecio planats don't seem to be particular about soil pH. Something in the neural range (6.0 - 7.0) would be fine. More importantly, make sure the soil is on the sandy side and well-draining soil. Plants will rot if left damp.
Planting: Senecio plants can be grown from either seed or cuttings. Seeds require warm temperatures (55 F.) and constant moisture to germinate.
Cuttings are easier and faster. Cut during the growing season, early spring to fall. Root in sandy soil, in containers.
Caring for Your Senecio Plants
Established plants are extremely drought tolerant. They do need some water, during the summer, but do not leave the soil wet for prolonged periods. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant.
Since they are growing in sandy soil, nutrients will need to be replenished. Fertilize annually, but lightly. Too much fertilizer will cause a lot of leggy growth.
Taller varieties can get floppy. You can prune them back to where the stem is firm, in very early spring. You can even root the cuttings.
Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring. If you are growing them in containers, they enjoy spending the summer outdoors. Wait until there is no danger of frost and move them back indoors in the fall.
Pests & Problems of Senecio
Few pests bother Senecio. They can occasionally be affected by scale and mealy bugs. Rabbits found my String of Pearls quite tasty.
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1
文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月25日
Description: This herbaceous wildflower is a biennial about 1-3' tall. During the first year, it forms a low rosette of leaves, while during the second year it bolts, forming flowering stalks. Small second-year plants branch sparingly, if at all, while robust second-year plants branch readily, especially above. The stems are light green, yellowish green, or reddish green; they are terete and glabrous. Pairs of opposite leaves occur along these stems. Individual leaves are 1-2½" long and ¼-1" across; they are ovate, lanceolate, or narrowly lanceolate in shape and smooth along their margins. Each leaf is rounded at the base, where it is sessile or clasps the stem. Both the lower and upper surfaces of the leaves are yellowish green to medium green and glabrous. The leaves have prominent central veins and a slightly succulent texture.
Upper stems terminate with individual flowers on long peduncles (up to 8" in length). Each flower is 1½-2½" long, consisting of a broad tubular corolla with spreading 4 lobes that are rounded and fringed, 4 lanceolate to ovate sepals that are about one-half the length of the corolla, 4 inserted stamens, and a pistil with a short style. The corolla varies in color from medium blue to deep dark blue. The sepals are light green to reddish green, glabrous, and keeled; 2 sepals are shorter than the other 2 sepals. The shorter sepals have membranous margins. The upright peduncles are light green to reddish green and glabrous; they are terete and sometimes slightly ribbed (striated). The blooming period occurs from early to mid-fall and lasts about 1½-2 months. The flowers are diurnal, opening up on sunny days, while remaining closed on cloudy days and during the night. There is no noticeable floral scent. The flowersStems & Opposite Leaves are replaced by elongated seed capsules. Individual capsules divide into 2 parts to release the numerous tiny seeds within. To some extent, they are distributed by wind and water. The seed surface is minutely bumpy. The root system consists of a shallow branching taproot. This wildflower reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, somewhat wet to moist conditions, and calcareous sandy soil with a neutral pH. Insect pests and disease organisms rarely bother this wildflower. Robust plants can sprawl if they are not supported by adjacent vegetation.
Range & Habitat: Fringed Gentian is a rare native wildflower that is found in NE Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is absent (see Distribution Map). While populations have declined from habitat destruction, Fringed Gentian is not yet listed as 'endangered' or 'threatened' within the state. Habitats include wet to moist sand prairies, sandy pannes near Lake Michigan, edges of sandy sloughs and sandy swales, fens, open wooded swamps, wooded ravines, roadside ditches, and open damp areas along sandy trails. Fringed Gentian is usually associated with high quality wetlands where the original flora is still intact, although it has a tendency to colonize open disturbed areas both in and around these habitats.
Faunal Associations: Information about floral-faunal relationships for this wildflower is scant. The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract primarily bumblebees. Costelloe (1988) observed the following bumblebees visiting the flowers of Fringed Gentian in Ohio: Bombus fervidus, Bombus impatiens, Bombus perplexus, and Bombus vagans. Apparently, the bitter foliage is rarely bothered by insects and mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: Edge of a wet sandy meadow along a trail at the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore in NW Indiana.
Comments: The flowers have an unearthly beauty that is positively stunning; Fringed Gentian ranks among the most attractive of all wildflowers within Illinois. Another similar species in this genus is Gentianopsis procera (Lesser Fringed Gentian). This latter species is a petite version of Fringed Gentian: it is usually shorter with smaller flowers and leaves. The flowers of Lesser Fringed Gentian have corolla lobes that are less deeply fringed, and its leaves are more narrow (becoming linear-lanceolate to nearly linear underneath the flowers). Lesser Fringed Gentian is even less common than Fringed Gentian, preferring similar to slightly wetter habitats. Another common name of Gentianopsis crinita is Greater Fringed Gentian; a scientific synonym of this species is Gentiana crinita.
Upper stems terminate with individual flowers on long peduncles (up to 8" in length). Each flower is 1½-2½" long, consisting of a broad tubular corolla with spreading 4 lobes that are rounded and fringed, 4 lanceolate to ovate sepals that are about one-half the length of the corolla, 4 inserted stamens, and a pistil with a short style. The corolla varies in color from medium blue to deep dark blue. The sepals are light green to reddish green, glabrous, and keeled; 2 sepals are shorter than the other 2 sepals. The shorter sepals have membranous margins. The upright peduncles are light green to reddish green and glabrous; they are terete and sometimes slightly ribbed (striated). The blooming period occurs from early to mid-fall and lasts about 1½-2 months. The flowers are diurnal, opening up on sunny days, while remaining closed on cloudy days and during the night. There is no noticeable floral scent. The flowersStems & Opposite Leaves are replaced by elongated seed capsules. Individual capsules divide into 2 parts to release the numerous tiny seeds within. To some extent, they are distributed by wind and water. The seed surface is minutely bumpy. The root system consists of a shallow branching taproot. This wildflower reproduces by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, somewhat wet to moist conditions, and calcareous sandy soil with a neutral pH. Insect pests and disease organisms rarely bother this wildflower. Robust plants can sprawl if they are not supported by adjacent vegetation.
Range & Habitat: Fringed Gentian is a rare native wildflower that is found in NE Illinois, while in the rest of the state it is absent (see Distribution Map). While populations have declined from habitat destruction, Fringed Gentian is not yet listed as 'endangered' or 'threatened' within the state. Habitats include wet to moist sand prairies, sandy pannes near Lake Michigan, edges of sandy sloughs and sandy swales, fens, open wooded swamps, wooded ravines, roadside ditches, and open damp areas along sandy trails. Fringed Gentian is usually associated with high quality wetlands where the original flora is still intact, although it has a tendency to colonize open disturbed areas both in and around these habitats.
Faunal Associations: Information about floral-faunal relationships for this wildflower is scant. The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract primarily bumblebees. Costelloe (1988) observed the following bumblebees visiting the flowers of Fringed Gentian in Ohio: Bombus fervidus, Bombus impatiens, Bombus perplexus, and Bombus vagans. Apparently, the bitter foliage is rarely bothered by insects and mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: Edge of a wet sandy meadow along a trail at the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore in NW Indiana.
Comments: The flowers have an unearthly beauty that is positively stunning; Fringed Gentian ranks among the most attractive of all wildflowers within Illinois. Another similar species in this genus is Gentianopsis procera (Lesser Fringed Gentian). This latter species is a petite version of Fringed Gentian: it is usually shorter with smaller flowers and leaves. The flowers of Lesser Fringed Gentian have corolla lobes that are less deeply fringed, and its leaves are more narrow (becoming linear-lanceolate to nearly linear underneath the flowers). Lesser Fringed Gentian is even less common than Fringed Gentian, preferring similar to slightly wetter habitats. Another common name of Gentianopsis crinita is Greater Fringed Gentian; a scientific synonym of this species is Gentiana crinita.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月25日
There are over 10,000 succulent plants, which include cacti. Many are native to South Africa and Madagascar and the Caribbean. Succulent plants have thick, fleshy leaves, stems or roots. This is one of the ways they have adapted to dry conditions by taking advantage of whatever water is available and holding onto it for later use. When full of water, the leaves can appear swollen. When they are becoming depleted, the leaves will begin to look puckered.
Other water conserving features you may find in succulents are narrow leaves, waxy leaves, a covering of hairs or needles, reduced pores, or stomata, and ribbed leaves and stems, that can expand water holding capacity. Their functioning is fascinating, but most are also quite attractive, too. They are perfect for dry climates and periods of drought anywhere, but many are not cold hardy below USDA Zone 9. Even so, they can be grown as annuals or over-wintered indoors. Several make great houseplants. Grow them all year in containers and you can just move the whole thing in when the temperature drops.
General Succulent Care
Water: During the summer, allow the soil to dry out between waterings and then water so that the soil is soaked through, but not dripping wet. Don't let the roots sit in soggy or waterlogged soil.
In winter, most succulents will only need water every month or so. They are basically dormant. If your house is particularly dry, you may need to water more often. The leaves will pucker slightly and begin to look desiccated if they need water. But just as in the summer, don't leave the plants sitting is soggy soil.
Soil: In pots, use a chunky, fast draining soil. This is one group of plants that does not thrive in the traditional loamy garden mix. There are special potting mixes sold for succulents.
In the ground, most succulents like a slightly acidic soil pH (5.5 – 6.5). Add some organic matter to very sandy soils, to retain moisture long enough for the plants to take it up. In clay soils, raised beds are your best option.
Choosing Succulents
Below are some popular succulents that are generally easy to grow.
Other water conserving features you may find in succulents are narrow leaves, waxy leaves, a covering of hairs or needles, reduced pores, or stomata, and ribbed leaves and stems, that can expand water holding capacity. Their functioning is fascinating, but most are also quite attractive, too. They are perfect for dry climates and periods of drought anywhere, but many are not cold hardy below USDA Zone 9. Even so, they can be grown as annuals or over-wintered indoors. Several make great houseplants. Grow them all year in containers and you can just move the whole thing in when the temperature drops.
General Succulent Care
Water: During the summer, allow the soil to dry out between waterings and then water so that the soil is soaked through, but not dripping wet. Don't let the roots sit in soggy or waterlogged soil.
In winter, most succulents will only need water every month or so. They are basically dormant. If your house is particularly dry, you may need to water more often. The leaves will pucker slightly and begin to look desiccated if they need water. But just as in the summer, don't leave the plants sitting is soggy soil.
Soil: In pots, use a chunky, fast draining soil. This is one group of plants that does not thrive in the traditional loamy garden mix. There are special potting mixes sold for succulents.
In the ground, most succulents like a slightly acidic soil pH (5.5 – 6.5). Add some organic matter to very sandy soils, to retain moisture long enough for the plants to take it up. In clay soils, raised beds are your best option.
Choosing Succulents
Below are some popular succulents that are generally easy to grow.
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成长记
2B_BotanicalFie
2018年06月24日
Unfortunately a lot of gnats.... eventough seller denied After 4 weeks of quarantine, using all kind of methods against gnats... I had to throw it away since the plague just kept continuing and it made me crazy and i didnt want my other plants effected
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月24日
6.Plant the Container
Once you are happy with the arrangement, remove the plants from the container, then begin removing them from their nursery pots and placing them back into the container, one-by-one. The soil in the nursery pots may be fairly coarse and loose, so be careful when removing the plants. Hold the plant gently at the top with the stem between two fingers. Turn the pot over on its side and gently tap the bottom of the pot and ease the plant out. (If you are handling a spiny succulent, make sure to use gloves when doing this.)
Once all plants are placed in the container, duplicating the design you want, gently pack additional succulent potting soil around each plant. As you do this, make sure to keep the plants at the same level they were growing at in their nursery pots—don't bury them deeper than they were already growing.
Make certain that you have filled in all the holes and spaces between the plants and also between the plants and the sides of the container. If you don’t, the roots will dry out, which can be lethal to your plant.
7.Finishing Touches
Gently remove any soil that is covering leaves and stems of the plants. You can do this with a soft-bristled brush, or even by gently blowing on the plants.
To give your container a finished look, cover the surface of the potting soil with a topdressing of some form of coarser stone, such as fine gravel, pebbles, sea glass, or marbles. The topdressing material can be brightly colored or neutral, depending on the look you want to achieve. Using a contrasting colored material for a topdressing can add zing to a pot; a more subtle topdressing can add elegance. The right topdressing can tie all the elements in your pot together or it can make plants stand out in contrast.
8.Caring for Your Succulents
To care for your succulent container garden, the goal is to mimic the conditions they would experience naturally.
During spring and summer—the growing season for most succulents— keep the soil moist, not wet. It's better to let the soil get a little dry between watering than it is to over-water. During the winter, when succulent plants are normally dormant, water much less frequently, keeping the soil on the dry side but not letting it dry out entirely.
Fertilization should be fairly minimal with succulent plants, and may not be needed at all. It will depend largely on the type of plants you are growing—research each species to learn its needs. If feeding is called for, do it only during the active growing season, using a diluted liquid fertilizer designed for succulents.
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Miss Chen
2018年06月24日
2.Assemble Materials and Plants
A trip to a full-service garden center will likely provide you with all the materials you need. Or you can order materials (except for the plants) from online retailers. The things you'll need include:
A container with drainage holes (shallow containers are best)
Succulent plants selected to fill container
Plastic window screening (or a piece of landscape fabric or a coffee filter)
Cactus or succulent potting soil
Stones, gravel, sea glass or marbles
3.Cover Drainage Holes
Cut a piece of plastic window screening big enough to cover your pot's drainage holes. This will keep your potting soil in while letting the excess water drain out of the container.
If you don't have window screening, you can use a piece of landscape fabric cut to size or a coffee filter to cover the holes. Although they are a little more expensive, you can also use commercial pot screens, available at garden centers and online retailers.
4.Add Soil
Cover the bottom of the container with enough succulent mix potting soil so that when the plants are placed, the soil line on their stems will remain about 1/2 inch below the rim of the container. This will mark the final soil level, and will make it easier to water without overflowing the sides of the container.
5.Test-Fit the Plants
First, place your plants, still in their nursery pots, into the container to get a general idea of the container design. Move the plants around until you are satisfied with the arrangement. Classic container garden design practice is to make sure that any container garden has a central "thriller" specimen, a group of "filler" plants and others that are "spillers" that flow over the edges of a container. But this arrangement is entirely up to you. Wonderful containers gardens often result from breaking traditional design rules.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月24日
Anyone can learn how to container garden. Seriously. I used to be a confirmed slayer of all plants. My thumb was not green, it was a destroyer of green. However, over time I learned how to keep plants in containers alive, at least for the most part. I still do kill plants--on a fairly regular basis--but have come to the conclusion that all gardeners do. It's just part of the deal. All you can hope for is that the pleasure of gardening will outweigh the inevitable pain of losing plants. But the good news is that there can be huge joy in container gardening and you can learn how to do it.
1.Learn Basics of Succulent Planters
Growing a succulent container garden is easy and immensely satisfying. By nature, succulent plants are tenacious, vigorous plants with low-moisture needs—they have evolved to thrive in some of the world's harshest conditions, so they are generally very easy to care for. In fact, the biggest challenge to most succulent plants is avoiding excessive nurturing—they don't do very well if they are overwatered and overfed. This makes them perfect for the gardener who doesn't have a lot of time to spend on tending plants.
Design Considerations
Although most succulents are not typically grown for their blooms, they come in an amazing array of colors and leaf textures, and combining them in interesting ways is a large part of the fun. Colors and textures that you wouldn’t think would go together can make beautiful arrangements.
The plants you choose and how you arrange them is a personal choice, but it is important to choose plants that are in scale to one another and to the container in which you'll plant them. Small containers call for miniature varieties, while huge pots can take very tall specimens.
Because succulents store their nutrients and water in their leaves, the root systems are quite compact. This means that you can crowd plants quite close together in containers.
Choice of Containers
Perhaps more than with any other container garden, the pot choice is key. Because the roots of succulents are relatively shallow, they can thrive and look fabulous in a shallow, wide bowl or dish. Just make sure that your pot has good drainage, or be prepared to drill your own holes in the bottom of the container. Standing water in a container can mean death to succulent plants.
Soil for Succulents
Equally important is the soil used in a succulent planter. You can buy any number of potting mixes designed expressly for succulent container gardening. Look for words like "cactus mix" or "succulent mix" on the labels.
You can also easily make your own succulent potting soil. Ordinary potting soil is usually a bit too fluffy and not gritty enough for a succulent planter, but if you blend equal parts potting soil, coarse sand, and perlite or pumice, you will have a very suitable succulent mix soil that will work for your planters.
Plant Selection
There are hundreds, if not thousands of succulent plants to choose from. When choosing your plants, be aware that they may have varying light and care requirements. It’s best to check the plant tag for specifics and to make sure that the plants you intend for the container have similar needs.
Although virtually all succulents do well in hot, dry conditions, that isn't to say they all thrive in direct, hot sun all day long. Contrary to popular belief, most succulents do best if they are in the direct sun for only a few hours a day. Although all need some bright, indirect light, many need protection from getting scorched in the mid-day sun.
Succulents can actually suffer from sunburn, so when you first buy them, it's best to give them an adjustment period. Similar to the “hardening off” process by which tender plants are acclimated to the outdoors, succulents should be hardened off by exposing them gradually to increasingly long periods of direct sunlight.
Most garden centers today have entire sections devoted to succulent plants, and the plants are often organized by size. Sample planters may be available for you to copy, or you can experiment with arrangments of different plants right in the store to see how they look together.
1.Learn Basics of Succulent Planters
Growing a succulent container garden is easy and immensely satisfying. By nature, succulent plants are tenacious, vigorous plants with low-moisture needs—they have evolved to thrive in some of the world's harshest conditions, so they are generally very easy to care for. In fact, the biggest challenge to most succulent plants is avoiding excessive nurturing—they don't do very well if they are overwatered and overfed. This makes them perfect for the gardener who doesn't have a lot of time to spend on tending plants.
Design Considerations
Although most succulents are not typically grown for their blooms, they come in an amazing array of colors and leaf textures, and combining them in interesting ways is a large part of the fun. Colors and textures that you wouldn’t think would go together can make beautiful arrangements.
The plants you choose and how you arrange them is a personal choice, but it is important to choose plants that are in scale to one another and to the container in which you'll plant them. Small containers call for miniature varieties, while huge pots can take very tall specimens.
Because succulents store their nutrients and water in their leaves, the root systems are quite compact. This means that you can crowd plants quite close together in containers.
Choice of Containers
Perhaps more than with any other container garden, the pot choice is key. Because the roots of succulents are relatively shallow, they can thrive and look fabulous in a shallow, wide bowl or dish. Just make sure that your pot has good drainage, or be prepared to drill your own holes in the bottom of the container. Standing water in a container can mean death to succulent plants.
Soil for Succulents
Equally important is the soil used in a succulent planter. You can buy any number of potting mixes designed expressly for succulent container gardening. Look for words like "cactus mix" or "succulent mix" on the labels.
You can also easily make your own succulent potting soil. Ordinary potting soil is usually a bit too fluffy and not gritty enough for a succulent planter, but if you blend equal parts potting soil, coarse sand, and perlite or pumice, you will have a very suitable succulent mix soil that will work for your planters.
Plant Selection
There are hundreds, if not thousands of succulent plants to choose from. When choosing your plants, be aware that they may have varying light and care requirements. It’s best to check the plant tag for specifics and to make sure that the plants you intend for the container have similar needs.
Although virtually all succulents do well in hot, dry conditions, that isn't to say they all thrive in direct, hot sun all day long. Contrary to popular belief, most succulents do best if they are in the direct sun for only a few hours a day. Although all need some bright, indirect light, many need protection from getting scorched in the mid-day sun.
Succulents can actually suffer from sunburn, so when you first buy them, it's best to give them an adjustment period. Similar to the “hardening off” process by which tender plants are acclimated to the outdoors, succulents should be hardened off by exposing them gradually to increasingly long periods of direct sunlight.
Most garden centers today have entire sections devoted to succulent plants, and the plants are often organized by size. Sample planters may be available for you to copy, or you can experiment with arrangments of different plants right in the store to see how they look together.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月23日
4.Succulent Plants in Tea Cup
Succulents can look great in almost anything - from a very formal container to one that is quite casual. I put these succulent plants in a tea cup that I got at a yard sale. I bought the whole set for a couple of dollars and then drilled holes in the bottoms of the cups.
For succulent plants, good drainage is essential. If you let them sit in water, succulents will quickly rot, so using a fast draining potting mix, and putting holes in your containers is the easiest way to keep your plants healthy.
To drill holes in ceramics, you need a special drill bit and some patience. It takes awhile to get through ceramics, and you have to let the bit cool down so that the heat doesn't build up from the friction and shatter your cup.
Make sure to put your cup on a firm surface. You can place a rag or flat, thin sponge on a counter, or I like to drill outside, on the ground so I don't have to clean up the dust. It's a good idea to wear safety goggles when doing any drilling, but particularly with ceramics which can shatter.
After the holes are drilled, I cut a small piece of plastic window screening and put it over the holes, to keep the soil in and let the water out. You can also use paper towel or a coffee filter.
I then fill the cup, almost to the top, with a cacti and succulent potting mix, plant my succulents and gently water, giving enough moisture so that the soil is damp. I then let the soil in the cup settle and the succulent plants take root.
5.Artist's Succulent Pot
What makes this succulent pot work so well is the spectacular concrete vessel, made by California artist, Mary Martha Collins. Mary crafts each pot by hand and then applies one of many stunning colors as a patina. This dish style of pot works particularly well with succulents because it is relatively shallow and succulents have a shallow root system.
When planting succulents, I use a potting mix designed specifically for cactus and succulents, which I buy at a nursery.
I like the strong color of the pot which sets off the interesting colors of the succulent plants.
Because of careless over-watering, when I first planted this pot, some of the original plants died. I simply pulled them out and replaced them with new plants.
Step-by-step instructions for how to make this succulent garden.
6.Vintage Tea Cup with Mixed Succulent Plants
I love stuffing succulents in small containers. This vintage tea cup and saucer was found at a second hand store and cost a dollar. I used a ceramic bit on a drill to put several holes in the bottom of the cup, to insure the good drainage that succulents need. I then filled the cup with succulent and cactus potting mix and then packed it with a mix of succulents. I water it infrequently - letting the soil dry out between waterings - especially in the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月23日
1.Agave in a Garden Pot
Succulent plants make great, easy container garden plants.
Succulent are one of my favorite container garden plants. They are low-maintenance, beautiful and they come in stunning colors, many different sizes, textures and shapes.
I am somewhat in awe of agaves. They are beautiful, striking and somewhat lethal, given their spikes, sharp tips and potentially toxic sap. Despite their seemingly hostile appearance they are fairly good-natured plants - not difficult to care for and tolerant of cool temperatures. Though they prefer hot, full sun, agaves will tolerate some shade.
P. Allen Smith uses agaves to great dramatic affect. Potted in large, dark containers, they punctuate the landscape and add a modern, sculptural sensibility as well as vertical interest.
2.Succulents on the Half Shell
These clamshells are packed full of succulent plants. They can be used for table decorations and make great house presents. You can use a mix of succulent plants, or use one type. These are planted with a few different kinds of hens and chicks, and some tiny echeverias.
As when planting any succulent, use either a potting soil made specifically for succulents and cacti, or make your own by taking a good quality potting mix and adding either pumice or perlite. Make sure to use a container that either has drainage holes one that you can punch or drill holes in. Drainage is key to keeping your succulents healthy.
To care for these miniature container gardens, give them full sun, or if you are in a very hot climate, keep them in partial shade. Do not over-water. During the growing season, keep the soil moist, but not wet. During the winter, when succulents go into dormancy, let the soil dry out between waterings.
Hens and chicks are incredibly forgiving plants. They are extremely hardy - most of them can survive in zone 3, and can tolerate poor soil.
For Step by step instructions on making clam shell container gardens.
3.Succulents in a Lunchbox
You can plant succulents in almost anything. Because of their shallow root structure, you don't need a very deep pot. You do need good drainage though. I took a large nail and hammered so many holes in the bottom of this box, that by the time I was done, it looked like Swiss cheese.
Because the metal is pretty thin, I made sure to punch the holes with the metal sitting directly on the ground, so it wouldn't bend the box.
After I punched the holes, I lined the box with plastic also with holes, so it wouldn't rust as quickly. I then filled it with a potting mix specifically designed for cacti and succulents. I packed the box full of plants, putting the ones that I knew would drape, near the edges, and the larger plants near the back.
The box sits in full sun, and I water it enough to keep the soil moist, but not wet. I'll bring it inside in the late fall and keep it in bright, indirect light. In the winter I'll let the soil dry out completely between waterings.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) and cauliflower (Brassica oleracea) grow during the cool season, growing from seed to harvest size in as little as 65 days. Although both plants can survive a freeze, extended periods of cold can slow growth or damage the plants. Waiting to plant until the temperatures are right for the best growth, and providing some protection from extreme cold, keeps the plants healthy and productive.
The Big Freeze
Broccoli and cauliflower can usually survive temperatures as low as 26 degrees Fahrenheit with only minor damage to the leaves. They may survive even lower temperatures if they are acclimated, but usually anything below 26 F will kill the plants if the weather was warmer leading up to the cold snap. Temperatures between 31 and 33 F rarely cause any damage to broccoli or cauliflower, although growth may slow if temperatures remain near or below freezing for an extended period.
A Happy Medium
Cauliflower and broccoli grow best between 65 and 80 F. Broccoli grows well when planted in late winter or early spring for an early summer harvest, or in late summer or fall for a late fall or early winter harvest. Cauliflower is more heat sensitive, so it grows better when planted in mid- to late-summer for a fall harvest. Temperatures above 80 F can cause both broccoli and cauliflower to slow their growth, or they may go to seed prematurely without forming large heads.
Hardening Off
Taking a week to harden off new broccoli or cauliflower transplants in spring makes them better able to survive freezing temperatures. Seedlings started indoors are used to warmer temperatures, so a cold snap in the garden is more likely to damage them if they aren't acclimated. Set the seedlings outside in a protected area, such as on a covered patio, seven days before transplanting. Leave the seedlings outside for only four hours the first day, but gradually increase the time outdoors each day until they stay out all day and night by the final day in the hardening off period. If a hard freeze is expected, bring the seedlings indoors and resume hardening off when the temperatures rise.
Protection Pointers
If your broccoli or cauliflower plants are recently transplanted, or if temperatures below 31 F are expected, you can provide protection to prevent freeze damage or plant death. Planting in a cold frame works, because you can close the glass lid on the frame during freezes and then reopen it when the temperature inside the frame rises above 60 F. For a brief cold snap, place an upturned pot over the plants or mulch around the plants with straw to provide some insulation.
The Big Freeze
Broccoli and cauliflower can usually survive temperatures as low as 26 degrees Fahrenheit with only minor damage to the leaves. They may survive even lower temperatures if they are acclimated, but usually anything below 26 F will kill the plants if the weather was warmer leading up to the cold snap. Temperatures between 31 and 33 F rarely cause any damage to broccoli or cauliflower, although growth may slow if temperatures remain near or below freezing for an extended period.
A Happy Medium
Cauliflower and broccoli grow best between 65 and 80 F. Broccoli grows well when planted in late winter or early spring for an early summer harvest, or in late summer or fall for a late fall or early winter harvest. Cauliflower is more heat sensitive, so it grows better when planted in mid- to late-summer for a fall harvest. Temperatures above 80 F can cause both broccoli and cauliflower to slow their growth, or they may go to seed prematurely without forming large heads.
Hardening Off
Taking a week to harden off new broccoli or cauliflower transplants in spring makes them better able to survive freezing temperatures. Seedlings started indoors are used to warmer temperatures, so a cold snap in the garden is more likely to damage them if they aren't acclimated. Set the seedlings outside in a protected area, such as on a covered patio, seven days before transplanting. Leave the seedlings outside for only four hours the first day, but gradually increase the time outdoors each day until they stay out all day and night by the final day in the hardening off period. If a hard freeze is expected, bring the seedlings indoors and resume hardening off when the temperatures rise.
Protection Pointers
If your broccoli or cauliflower plants are recently transplanted, or if temperatures below 31 F are expected, you can provide protection to prevent freeze damage or plant death. Planting in a cold frame works, because you can close the glass lid on the frame during freezes and then reopen it when the temperature inside the frame rises above 60 F. For a brief cold snap, place an upturned pot over the plants or mulch around the plants with straw to provide some insulation.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Red onions can be eaten raw, boiled, broiled, baked, creamed, steamed, fried or pickled. These cool-season vegetables are grown by gardeners either from seeds or from small bulbs. Onions are biennial plants that take two years to complete their life cycle. When planted from seed, the red onion forms and above-ground steam--modified leave --and tiny underground bulbs. The next year, larger bulbs form until the red onions are mature and ready for harvest. Planting small red onion bulbs, known as onion sets, allows gardeners to bypass the first year of growing and harvest mature onions much more quickly.
Loosen the soil to the depth of 6 inches with a shovel two to four weeks before the last frost date. Till the soil until it is loose and ready for planting. Add 2 inches of compost to the soil to ensure good fertility.
Plant the red onion sets 1 inch deep and 2 to 4 inches apart. Cover them with soil, but do not compact the soil. Plant additional rows of onions 12 to 18 inches apart.
Weed the onion patch by hand. Red onions have shallow roots and do not grow well among weeds and grass, which compete for soil nutrients and moisture. Use a garden hoe to eradicate the weeds between the rows.
Water the red onion bulbs each week whenever the weather is dry. Water the soil around the base of the plants until the soil is moist to depth of 2 to 4 inches, depending on the size of the bulbs. Use a 1-inch layer of straw mulch around the red onion bulbs to suppress weed growth and hold in soil moisture.
Feed the red onions three weeks after active growth has started. Place a narrow band of 10-10-10 slow-release fertilizer 2 to 3 inches beside the row of onions. Scratch it into the top 1 inch of soil and water right away to start the fertilizer working. Use about 1 lb. of fertilizer for every 100 square feet of planting space.
Pull every other onion when harvesting for the first time. This allows the red onions left in the garden more room to grow. Harvest the onions on a dry morning. Let the onions dry for the day in the shade. Later, braid the tops together and hang the red onion bunches in a cool, dry area with good air circulation.
Loosen the soil to the depth of 6 inches with a shovel two to four weeks before the last frost date. Till the soil until it is loose and ready for planting. Add 2 inches of compost to the soil to ensure good fertility.
Plant the red onion sets 1 inch deep and 2 to 4 inches apart. Cover them with soil, but do not compact the soil. Plant additional rows of onions 12 to 18 inches apart.
Weed the onion patch by hand. Red onions have shallow roots and do not grow well among weeds and grass, which compete for soil nutrients and moisture. Use a garden hoe to eradicate the weeds between the rows.
Water the red onion bulbs each week whenever the weather is dry. Water the soil around the base of the plants until the soil is moist to depth of 2 to 4 inches, depending on the size of the bulbs. Use a 1-inch layer of straw mulch around the red onion bulbs to suppress weed growth and hold in soil moisture.
Feed the red onions three weeks after active growth has started. Place a narrow band of 10-10-10 slow-release fertilizer 2 to 3 inches beside the row of onions. Scratch it into the top 1 inch of soil and water right away to start the fertilizer working. Use about 1 lb. of fertilizer for every 100 square feet of planting space.
Pull every other onion when harvesting for the first time. This allows the red onions left in the garden more room to grow. Harvest the onions on a dry morning. Let the onions dry for the day in the shade. Later, braid the tops together and hang the red onion bunches in a cool, dry area with good air circulation.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
An essential nutrient, all plants must have boron for normal, healthy growth. Because plants only require it in small quantities, it's categorized as a micronutrient. But boron is just as critical as nitrogen and other elements that plants need in larger amounts. Some vegetables prefer more of this micronutrient than other plants require, but adding boron to your vegetable garden demands great care. The range where boron helps plant growth is narrow. Too little boron causes poor vegetable production, but even slightly too much of this common element can leave soil toxic to all plant life.
What Boron Does for Plants
Boron affects many aspects of plant growth, but it especially impacts fruit set and ultimate yields on vegetable crops. The element influences how vegetables process carbohydrates and move the sugars that control fruit taste, quality and color. Boron-deficient vegetables experience a breakdown of their growing points, which leaves plants stunted or deformed. Misshapen flowers inhibit good pollination and reduce fruit set and quality. Poor root growth inhibits the uptake of other essential nutrients. New growth on boron-deficient vegetables may be curled and thick or have a yellow or red tinge. Severely deficient plants fail to produce any seeds or fruit at all.
Different Vegetable Requirements
Vegetables differ considerably in their response to boron. Some types flourish with very little, while others show severe deficiencies at the same levels. Cauliflower and broccoli (both Brassica oleracea var. botrytis), turnips (Brassica rapa) and beets (Beta vulgaris) produce best with more boron than peas (Pisum sativum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) and peppers (Capsicum spp.), which need very little. Carrots (Daucus carota spp. sativa), lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. capitata), tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) and radishes (Raphanus sativus) need only moderate amounts. Boron-deficient cabbage-family crops often develop hollow stems. Beets develop soft, dead spots in their centers. Even without visible symptoms, boron shortages can reduce harvests significantly.
Testing Before Adding
Always test your soil for boron levels before adding any type of boron product -- even common household forms. The difference between too little boron and toxic levels is small. The amount needed depends on soil type, soil pH, available soil boron, organic matter and the vegetables you desire to grow. Boron is most available in soil pH between 5 and 7. Standard soil tests may not include boron, so send samples to a soil testing laboratory for a specific test if you suspect boron levels are off. Reputable labs will tailor results to your goals. Boron is highly soluble, and it easily moves through moist soil. Deficiencies often occur in high-rainfall or high-irrigation areas or in sandy soils. Toxicities occur most often in in areas with low rainfall.
Adding Boron to Soil
When boron is lacking, many products meet the need. From boron-based household products to commercial boron additives, the amount of actual boron in these products may range from 11 to 20 percent. Follow the test result recommendations precisely. Soil and Plant Laboratory, Inc. advises that boron can be toxic to some plants at levels near only 1 part per million. The actual boron needed to correct common soil deficiencies is as low as 1/2 to 1 ounce per 1,000 square feet. Apply the recommended boron to the soil, and water the area to move boron into the root zone. Wear protective clothing, including safety eyewear, and wash well with soap and water after applying the boron.
What Boron Does for Plants
Boron affects many aspects of plant growth, but it especially impacts fruit set and ultimate yields on vegetable crops. The element influences how vegetables process carbohydrates and move the sugars that control fruit taste, quality and color. Boron-deficient vegetables experience a breakdown of their growing points, which leaves plants stunted or deformed. Misshapen flowers inhibit good pollination and reduce fruit set and quality. Poor root growth inhibits the uptake of other essential nutrients. New growth on boron-deficient vegetables may be curled and thick or have a yellow or red tinge. Severely deficient plants fail to produce any seeds or fruit at all.
Different Vegetable Requirements
Vegetables differ considerably in their response to boron. Some types flourish with very little, while others show severe deficiencies at the same levels. Cauliflower and broccoli (both Brassica oleracea var. botrytis), turnips (Brassica rapa) and beets (Beta vulgaris) produce best with more boron than peas (Pisum sativum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) and peppers (Capsicum spp.), which need very little. Carrots (Daucus carota spp. sativa), lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. capitata), tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) and radishes (Raphanus sativus) need only moderate amounts. Boron-deficient cabbage-family crops often develop hollow stems. Beets develop soft, dead spots in their centers. Even without visible symptoms, boron shortages can reduce harvests significantly.
Testing Before Adding
Always test your soil for boron levels before adding any type of boron product -- even common household forms. The difference between too little boron and toxic levels is small. The amount needed depends on soil type, soil pH, available soil boron, organic matter and the vegetables you desire to grow. Boron is most available in soil pH between 5 and 7. Standard soil tests may not include boron, so send samples to a soil testing laboratory for a specific test if you suspect boron levels are off. Reputable labs will tailor results to your goals. Boron is highly soluble, and it easily moves through moist soil. Deficiencies often occur in high-rainfall or high-irrigation areas or in sandy soils. Toxicities occur most often in in areas with low rainfall.
Adding Boron to Soil
When boron is lacking, many products meet the need. From boron-based household products to commercial boron additives, the amount of actual boron in these products may range from 11 to 20 percent. Follow the test result recommendations precisely. Soil and Plant Laboratory, Inc. advises that boron can be toxic to some plants at levels near only 1 part per million. The actual boron needed to correct common soil deficiencies is as low as 1/2 to 1 ounce per 1,000 square feet. Apply the recommended boron to the soil, and water the area to move boron into the root zone. Wear protective clothing, including safety eyewear, and wash well with soap and water after applying the boron.
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成长记
Pommy Mommy
2018年06月11日
Hydrangeas are my very favorite flower! Unfortunately their color is fading, though I can't complain because they've been in bloom for nearly two months! the center flower was potted & purchased this year, and the two outside plants were purchased & planted last year.
p.s. This is a little memorial for first Pomeranian, Foxy Loo, who loved gardening with me.
p.s. This is a little memorial for first Pomeranian, Foxy Loo, who loved gardening with me.
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