成长记
kensong
2018年04月26日
Happy together. Fittonias (nerve plants) flourish when they are together. There are so many colour variants, yet they all look good when placed beside each other with their delicately veined leaves. This is a group I'm moving over to my office.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月20日
Zucchini and other summer squash can be grown in vegetable gardens throughout the United States, providing a good crop each year. Although the squash are considered easy to grow, the plants can suffer damage when not cared for properly. Yellow leaves are a sign of a potential problem in many plants, zucchini included. In some cases, overwatering may cause the problem. However, that is only one potential cause.
Water Needs
Zucchini need about 1 inch of water per week, the University of Illinois Extension reports. When rainfall does not meet these needs, the best technique for watering the squash is to provide one deep water per week. If you grow zucchini in a sandy soil, water more frequently but use less water with each irrigation, the University of Minnesota Extension recommends.
Too Much Water
Yellow leaves on a zucchini plant can be a sign of many problems, including too much water. Typically, leaves yellow as a result of wet soil following heavy rains when temperatures are cool or cold, the University of Minnesota Extension reports. Leaves also may appear dark green or brown, and many may wilt or die back, when temperatures drop.
Other Causes
Cold weather and too much moisture are among many potential causes for yellow leaves on a zucchini plant. Powdery mildew can also cause yellowing, typically on the plant's oldest leaves. Downy mildew can also cause yellowing, although typically in spots and splotches. Pests including the squash vine borer and squash bugs can make leaves yellow and wilt. Finally, plant viruses such as squash mosaic can lead to yellowing of leaves.
Treatment and Care
How to care for a zucchini plant with yellowing leaves depends on the cause. When the problem develops following a cold and rainy spell, the plant's health may improve without your aid as temperatures warm and the soil dries out. If the yellow leaves are pest related, you can remove visible pests and their eggs and larvae by hand when checking the plants; alternatively, try an insecticide applied at the base of the vines, suggests the Iowa State University Extension. Herbicides can help control mildew and other plant diseases.
Water Needs
Zucchini need about 1 inch of water per week, the University of Illinois Extension reports. When rainfall does not meet these needs, the best technique for watering the squash is to provide one deep water per week. If you grow zucchini in a sandy soil, water more frequently but use less water with each irrigation, the University of Minnesota Extension recommends.
Too Much Water
Yellow leaves on a zucchini plant can be a sign of many problems, including too much water. Typically, leaves yellow as a result of wet soil following heavy rains when temperatures are cool or cold, the University of Minnesota Extension reports. Leaves also may appear dark green or brown, and many may wilt or die back, when temperatures drop.
Other Causes
Cold weather and too much moisture are among many potential causes for yellow leaves on a zucchini plant. Powdery mildew can also cause yellowing, typically on the plant's oldest leaves. Downy mildew can also cause yellowing, although typically in spots and splotches. Pests including the squash vine borer and squash bugs can make leaves yellow and wilt. Finally, plant viruses such as squash mosaic can lead to yellowing of leaves.
Treatment and Care
How to care for a zucchini plant with yellowing leaves depends on the cause. When the problem develops following a cold and rainy spell, the plant's health may improve without your aid as temperatures warm and the soil dries out. If the yellow leaves are pest related, you can remove visible pests and their eggs and larvae by hand when checking the plants; alternatively, try an insecticide applied at the base of the vines, suggests the Iowa State University Extension. Herbicides can help control mildew and other plant diseases.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月19日
Few things beat a salad made from a large handful of fresh lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. capitata) straight from the garden. While you can allow both loose-leaf and head-style lettuce plants to reach full size in the garden, then pull or cut them at the roots to harvest a whole lettuce, growing lettuce lets you prolong the season by cutting it leaf by leaf or using a technique called cut-and-come-again.
Leaf by Leaf Cutting
You can cut leaves of edible size from the stem of the plant, leaving the small-leaved center intact and growing. Leaves can be pinched off by hand, but cutting may damage less tissue than pinching. Wipe the scissor blades clean between cuts with a 1:9 solution of bleach and water, to keep from spreading plant diseases. A 1/3 cup of bleach in 3 cups of water will keep tools clean for cutting and other garden chores.
Cut-and-Come-Again
The second cutting method is more drastic but still allows the plant to continue growing. For cut-and-come-again, cut the entire plant parallel to the ground and approximately 1 inch from the soil. The center will regenerate first, and the plant will then begin to form new leaves that grow to edible size. Clean your tools before cutting each plant.
Lettuces for Leaf-by-Leaf Cutting
Loose-head, or loose-leaf, varieties are best for leaf-by-leaf cutting. Grand Rapids varieties like "Red Sails" and "Black-Seeded Simpson" have broad, ruffled leaves. Lobed-leaf varieties, commonly dubbed "oakleaf," also have large, loose clusters of leaves, making removal of a leaf or two easy. Planting a loose-head variety in a large pot lets you rotate the pot, gathering leaves from all the way around the plant. Because the stem lengthens as lettuce grows toward blooming and going to seed, or "bolting," your remaining plant may vaguely resemble a palm tree, but the leaves will remain sweet so long as temperatures stay below 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Cut-and-Come-Again
Cutting the whole plant down to 1 inch yields a large harvest of loose-head leaves. You can harvest like this two to three times before the quality of the leaves declines. Butterhead and Romaine lettuce varieties can also be cut down to 1 inch, but the remaining stubs often generate a less vigorous but edible second growth.
Cutting and Timing
Both cutting methods work best when carefully timed. Although it may take a little practice from one variety to another, leaves that are just getting crisp and starting to look mature are ready for cutting. Old leaves will have poor or bitter flavor, no matter how they are harvested. The time of day can have a significant effect on the quality of the lettuce leaves. Leaves harvested early in the morning, around 7 a.m., contain approximately twice the plant sugars of leaves harvested at 2 p.m. Cut early for a sweet harvest. Early morning cutting also lets plant wounds begin to heal before exposure to hot sun threatens to scorch tissues.
Leaf by Leaf Cutting
You can cut leaves of edible size from the stem of the plant, leaving the small-leaved center intact and growing. Leaves can be pinched off by hand, but cutting may damage less tissue than pinching. Wipe the scissor blades clean between cuts with a 1:9 solution of bleach and water, to keep from spreading plant diseases. A 1/3 cup of bleach in 3 cups of water will keep tools clean for cutting and other garden chores.
Cut-and-Come-Again
The second cutting method is more drastic but still allows the plant to continue growing. For cut-and-come-again, cut the entire plant parallel to the ground and approximately 1 inch from the soil. The center will regenerate first, and the plant will then begin to form new leaves that grow to edible size. Clean your tools before cutting each plant.
Lettuces for Leaf-by-Leaf Cutting
Loose-head, or loose-leaf, varieties are best for leaf-by-leaf cutting. Grand Rapids varieties like "Red Sails" and "Black-Seeded Simpson" have broad, ruffled leaves. Lobed-leaf varieties, commonly dubbed "oakleaf," also have large, loose clusters of leaves, making removal of a leaf or two easy. Planting a loose-head variety in a large pot lets you rotate the pot, gathering leaves from all the way around the plant. Because the stem lengthens as lettuce grows toward blooming and going to seed, or "bolting," your remaining plant may vaguely resemble a palm tree, but the leaves will remain sweet so long as temperatures stay below 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Cut-and-Come-Again
Cutting the whole plant down to 1 inch yields a large harvest of loose-head leaves. You can harvest like this two to three times before the quality of the leaves declines. Butterhead and Romaine lettuce varieties can also be cut down to 1 inch, but the remaining stubs often generate a less vigorous but edible second growth.
Cutting and Timing
Both cutting methods work best when carefully timed. Although it may take a little practice from one variety to another, leaves that are just getting crisp and starting to look mature are ready for cutting. Old leaves will have poor or bitter flavor, no matter how they are harvested. The time of day can have a significant effect on the quality of the lettuce leaves. Leaves harvested early in the morning, around 7 a.m., contain approximately twice the plant sugars of leaves harvested at 2 p.m. Cut early for a sweet harvest. Early morning cutting also lets plant wounds begin to heal before exposure to hot sun threatens to scorch tissues.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月18日
Unlike most other vegetables, asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a perennial, and plants can produce for as long as 20 years or longers after the first harvest. That first harvest is a long time in coming, however, because it doesn't occur until three years after seeds are planted. That's why most gardeners plant crowns instead of seeds; it cuts the time to the first harvest by a year.
Asparagus grows well in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 2 through 8. People in colder climates benefit by planting 'Guelph Millennium,' a variety that emerges late, while those in warmer climates should plant 'Apollo' or 'UC-157,' which produce before the onset of hot weather. 'Jersey Knight' is a hybrid that grows especially well in USDA zones 4 through 6.
Germinating and Transplanting
Asparagus seeds take a long time to germinate, which is one reason many gardeners prefer to grow the plants from crowns. Depending on the temperature of the soil, it can take asparagus seeds up to two months to germinate. Time the planting to be ready to transplant the shoots 10 to 12 weeks later. The best time to plant the shoots is in early spring, after all danger of frost has passed. Asparagus thrives in cool temperatures and full sun, and the pH of the soil should be between 6.5 and 7.5.
Gardeners should perform a soil test approximately six months before planting the asparagus as it takes this long to adjust the soil's pH. If the soil's pH tests too high, apply 1/4 pound of sulfur for every 100 square feet of garden bed. If the results of the soil test states the pH is too low, adjust by applying 5 pounds of lime for every 100 square feet of garden bed.
Step 1
Soak seeds for two hours prior to sowing.
Step 2
Place each seed in a separate 2-inch pot filled with sterile sowing mix. Sow the seed 1/4 inch below the surface. Make sure the container has bottom drain holes so it doesn't retain too much moisture and the seeds rot.
Step 3
Place the pots in a warm place and keep the soil moist. Sprouts should appear in two to eight weeks, depending on the soil temperature; they'll sprout faster if the soil is warm.
Step 4
Prepare a well-draining soil bed by removing all the weeds and working in 1 to 2 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying. Transplant the shoots into holes about 4 inches deep and cover the crown with more soil as it grows. Space holes in each row 18 inches apart, and space rows 3 to 6 feet apart.
Care and Maintenance
Step 1
Fertilize the plants in the early spring, using 1 to 2 cups of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 10 feet of row, which amounts to a handful of fertilizer per plant. The best time to do this is after you've finished harvesting the spears. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as well as "hot" ones like hog, sheep or poultry manure. Instead, use bone meal and high dolomitic limestone. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying.
Step 2
Give each plant 1 inch of water every week. To help plants retain moisture, mulch them with straw. Mulch also helps control weeds and protects young shoots in the event of a late frost. Even with mulch, it's important to control weeds growing around the young plants by pulling them by the roots. Weeds will gradually get fewer as the asparagus plants grow and become bushier.
Step 3
Trim the ferns down to about 2 inches in the late fall using hand pruners and throw them away to help prevent disease and control pests, such as the asparagus beetle, which overwinters in the top fronds. If pests aren't a problem, consider leaving the fronds -- they transfer energy to the roots.
Harvesting
It takes three years for asparagus plants to be strong enough to harvest. If the plant is growing vigorously, spears will appear in the first spring after planting, and for about two weeks you can break these off if they grow longer than 4 inches. That encourages the plant to produce more. In the second year, extend this harvest period to four weeks, and in the third year, extend it to six weeks. In the fourth year, when the plant is mature, you can harvest spears for up to eight weeks.
Asparagus grows well in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 2 through 8. People in colder climates benefit by planting 'Guelph Millennium,' a variety that emerges late, while those in warmer climates should plant 'Apollo' or 'UC-157,' which produce before the onset of hot weather. 'Jersey Knight' is a hybrid that grows especially well in USDA zones 4 through 6.
Germinating and Transplanting
Asparagus seeds take a long time to germinate, which is one reason many gardeners prefer to grow the plants from crowns. Depending on the temperature of the soil, it can take asparagus seeds up to two months to germinate. Time the planting to be ready to transplant the shoots 10 to 12 weeks later. The best time to plant the shoots is in early spring, after all danger of frost has passed. Asparagus thrives in cool temperatures and full sun, and the pH of the soil should be between 6.5 and 7.5.
Gardeners should perform a soil test approximately six months before planting the asparagus as it takes this long to adjust the soil's pH. If the soil's pH tests too high, apply 1/4 pound of sulfur for every 100 square feet of garden bed. If the results of the soil test states the pH is too low, adjust by applying 5 pounds of lime for every 100 square feet of garden bed.
Step 1
Soak seeds for two hours prior to sowing.
Step 2
Place each seed in a separate 2-inch pot filled with sterile sowing mix. Sow the seed 1/4 inch below the surface. Make sure the container has bottom drain holes so it doesn't retain too much moisture and the seeds rot.
Step 3
Place the pots in a warm place and keep the soil moist. Sprouts should appear in two to eight weeks, depending on the soil temperature; they'll sprout faster if the soil is warm.
Step 4
Prepare a well-draining soil bed by removing all the weeds and working in 1 to 2 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying. Transplant the shoots into holes about 4 inches deep and cover the crown with more soil as it grows. Space holes in each row 18 inches apart, and space rows 3 to 6 feet apart.
Care and Maintenance
Step 1
Fertilize the plants in the early spring, using 1 to 2 cups of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 10 feet of row, which amounts to a handful of fertilizer per plant. The best time to do this is after you've finished harvesting the spears. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as well as "hot" ones like hog, sheep or poultry manure. Instead, use bone meal and high dolomitic limestone. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying.
Step 2
Give each plant 1 inch of water every week. To help plants retain moisture, mulch them with straw. Mulch also helps control weeds and protects young shoots in the event of a late frost. Even with mulch, it's important to control weeds growing around the young plants by pulling them by the roots. Weeds will gradually get fewer as the asparagus plants grow and become bushier.
Step 3
Trim the ferns down to about 2 inches in the late fall using hand pruners and throw them away to help prevent disease and control pests, such as the asparagus beetle, which overwinters in the top fronds. If pests aren't a problem, consider leaving the fronds -- they transfer energy to the roots.
Harvesting
It takes three years for asparagus plants to be strong enough to harvest. If the plant is growing vigorously, spears will appear in the first spring after planting, and for about two weeks you can break these off if they grow longer than 4 inches. That encourages the plant to produce more. In the second year, extend this harvest period to four weeks, and in the third year, extend it to six weeks. In the fourth year, when the plant is mature, you can harvest spears for up to eight weeks.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月18日
The definition of a vegetable is any edible portion of a plant that does not include a sweet fruit or seed. Vegetables typically consist of leafy, root and stem sections of plants; however, some plants labeled as vegetables are fruits by botanical definition. These mislabeled fruits are plants that contain seeds, but for culinary purposes, are vegetables because the plants lack sweetness.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables grown in home gardens, according to the University of Illinois. This warm season perennial has hundreds of cultivars in numerous shapes, sizes and colors. Tomatoes originate from South America and belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Tomatoes plants fall into two categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomato plants develop flower clusters that stop the growth of the plant vertically. Indeterminate tomato plants form lateral flower clusters that prevent horizontal growth but allow vertical. Some tomato plants need caging or staking because of the weight of the plant.
Peppers
Peppers are tender vegetables planted as warm season crops and are native to Mexico, Central and South America. These multi-purpose seed-containing vegetables belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Peppers come in multiple sizes and shapes including species like bell, sweet and hot peppers. Bell peppers include bell boy and lady bell cultivars. Sweet peppers used in salads are banana peppers and gypsy. Hot peppers entail varieties like jalapeno, red chili and cayenne. Peppers enjoy well-draining fertile soil with ample moisture.
Eggplants
Eggplants are part of the Solanaceae plant family. These purple and white colored cold-seasoned vegetables are native to India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Bangladeshis. Eggplants come in many varieties including large oval-shaped, elongated and small oval-shaped. Smaller species have the ability to grow in containers. Eggplants require a nitrogen-based fertilizer with plenty of moisture. These seed-bearing vegetables enjoy the hot conditions of summer and need a long growing season. Two typical problems with eggplant crops are the verticillium wilt, a plant disease, and flea beetles.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are warm-seasoned vegetables that originate from India. This dark green cylindrical vegetable from the Cucurbitaceae family develops from creeping vines. Cucumbers come in many varieties including long green slicing, compact long green slicing and pickling. Burpless is a long green slicing hybrid cucumber that takes 62 days to harvest, fanfare is a compact long green slicing hybrid that is disease resistant, and Carolina is a medium-sized pickling cucumber. Cucumbers also come in an assortment of dwarf cultivars. Cucumbers have shallow roots; therefore, they need plenty of moisture.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables grown in home gardens, according to the University of Illinois. This warm season perennial has hundreds of cultivars in numerous shapes, sizes and colors. Tomatoes originate from South America and belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Tomatoes plants fall into two categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomato plants develop flower clusters that stop the growth of the plant vertically. Indeterminate tomato plants form lateral flower clusters that prevent horizontal growth but allow vertical. Some tomato plants need caging or staking because of the weight of the plant.
Peppers
Peppers are tender vegetables planted as warm season crops and are native to Mexico, Central and South America. These multi-purpose seed-containing vegetables belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Peppers come in multiple sizes and shapes including species like bell, sweet and hot peppers. Bell peppers include bell boy and lady bell cultivars. Sweet peppers used in salads are banana peppers and gypsy. Hot peppers entail varieties like jalapeno, red chili and cayenne. Peppers enjoy well-draining fertile soil with ample moisture.
Eggplants
Eggplants are part of the Solanaceae plant family. These purple and white colored cold-seasoned vegetables are native to India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Bangladeshis. Eggplants come in many varieties including large oval-shaped, elongated and small oval-shaped. Smaller species have the ability to grow in containers. Eggplants require a nitrogen-based fertilizer with plenty of moisture. These seed-bearing vegetables enjoy the hot conditions of summer and need a long growing season. Two typical problems with eggplant crops are the verticillium wilt, a plant disease, and flea beetles.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are warm-seasoned vegetables that originate from India. This dark green cylindrical vegetable from the Cucurbitaceae family develops from creeping vines. Cucumbers come in many varieties including long green slicing, compact long green slicing and pickling. Burpless is a long green slicing hybrid cucumber that takes 62 days to harvest, fanfare is a compact long green slicing hybrid that is disease resistant, and Carolina is a medium-sized pickling cucumber. Cucumbers also come in an assortment of dwarf cultivars. Cucumbers have shallow roots; therefore, they need plenty of moisture.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月18日
Pepperoncini peppers belong to the mild hot pepper group of of pepper plants. The peppers are served fresh, cooked or pickled. Pepperoncinis are typically used in the yellow-green stage. You can leave them on the plant until they develop an orange-red color, but pepperoncini aren't typically ripened to the full stage. Picking the peppers during the yellow-green period results in a crisp pepper that withstands pickling well and retains the characteristic flavor and texture of the pepperoncini.
Step 1
Inspect the color and skin condition of the pepper. Harvest the peppers when they are evenly yellow-green in color and when the skin has become glossy. Dull-skinned pepperoncini haven't ripened sufficiently.
Step 2
Press lightly on the pepperoncini. Harvest those that have developed firm flesh and avoid those that are thin or flimsy.
Step 3
Cut the ripe pepperoncini from the plant with shears, leaving 1/2 inch of the stem attached. Don't pull the pepper off the plant, as this damages the plant and the pepper.
Step 4
Place the pepperoncinis in a plastic storage bag or container. Store the peppers in the vegetable crisper drawer of the refrigerator for one to three weeks before using or preparing them for long term storage.
Step 1
Inspect the color and skin condition of the pepper. Harvest the peppers when they are evenly yellow-green in color and when the skin has become glossy. Dull-skinned pepperoncini haven't ripened sufficiently.
Step 2
Press lightly on the pepperoncini. Harvest those that have developed firm flesh and avoid those that are thin or flimsy.
Step 3
Cut the ripe pepperoncini from the plant with shears, leaving 1/2 inch of the stem attached. Don't pull the pepper off the plant, as this damages the plant and the pepper.
Step 4
Place the pepperoncinis in a plastic storage bag or container. Store the peppers in the vegetable crisper drawer of the refrigerator for one to three weeks before using or preparing them for long term storage.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月17日
All plants have roots through which they derive nutrients from the soil. When these roots are edible, they are called "root vegetables." When preparing carrots, for example, it is usual to cut off and discard their leaves, known as greens, and eat the long, orange roots. Consumption of root vegetables is common around the world. Some vegetables of similar appearance, especially nonroot tubers, are occasionally incorrectly considered root vegetables.
Taproots
Taproots are long, sometimes slender roots that plunge deep into the soil. Carrots are the most familiar taproots in everyday use. Carrots are related to parsley, which are prized for the green leaves. Carrots originated in Afghanistan but are now grown and eaten around the world. Other taproots include parsnips, turnips, rutabagas, daikons, celeriac, radishes and beets. Although some taproots, such as parsnips, are most often served cooked, many can be eaten raw or incorporated raw in salads and other dishes.
Tuber Roots
Tubers, in comparison to taproots, tend to be larger and more squat in shape. Tuber roots can store large quantities of nutrients, which helps some plants make it through long winters. Sweet potatoes and yams are familiar examples of tuber roots. They are often confused because they have a similar appearance and flavor. Traditionally sweet potatoes grown and eaten in the southern U.S. are called yams even though, strictly speaking, they are sweet potatoes. Often large and high in sugar, sweet potatoes and yams are best cooked before eating. Other examples of tuber root vegetables include cassava, yucca and manioc.
Potatoes
Although potatoes are tubers, not root vegetables, they are often grouped with yams and sweet potatoes, which are tuber roots and true root vegetables. The potato is technically a stem rather than a root. Indeed, anyone who has kept potatoes too long will have seen them sprout roots. The potato does perform a similar function to a tuber root, storing nutrients from the soil. Potatoes are one of the world's main dietary staples.
Other Similar Vegetables
In addition to the potato, other tubers and some bulbs are sometimes classed with root vegetables, although in strict botanical terms they are not roots. Among these are tigernuts, groundnuts, sunchokes, arrowroot and lotus root. Members of the onion family -- including onions, shallots, garlic -- are bulbs rather than roots.
Taproots
Taproots are long, sometimes slender roots that plunge deep into the soil. Carrots are the most familiar taproots in everyday use. Carrots are related to parsley, which are prized for the green leaves. Carrots originated in Afghanistan but are now grown and eaten around the world. Other taproots include parsnips, turnips, rutabagas, daikons, celeriac, radishes and beets. Although some taproots, such as parsnips, are most often served cooked, many can be eaten raw or incorporated raw in salads and other dishes.
Tuber Roots
Tubers, in comparison to taproots, tend to be larger and more squat in shape. Tuber roots can store large quantities of nutrients, which helps some plants make it through long winters. Sweet potatoes and yams are familiar examples of tuber roots. They are often confused because they have a similar appearance and flavor. Traditionally sweet potatoes grown and eaten in the southern U.S. are called yams even though, strictly speaking, they are sweet potatoes. Often large and high in sugar, sweet potatoes and yams are best cooked before eating. Other examples of tuber root vegetables include cassava, yucca and manioc.
Potatoes
Although potatoes are tubers, not root vegetables, they are often grouped with yams and sweet potatoes, which are tuber roots and true root vegetables. The potato is technically a stem rather than a root. Indeed, anyone who has kept potatoes too long will have seen them sprout roots. The potato does perform a similar function to a tuber root, storing nutrients from the soil. Potatoes are one of the world's main dietary staples.
Other Similar Vegetables
In addition to the potato, other tubers and some bulbs are sometimes classed with root vegetables, although in strict botanical terms they are not roots. Among these are tigernuts, groundnuts, sunchokes, arrowroot and lotus root. Members of the onion family -- including onions, shallots, garlic -- are bulbs rather than roots.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月16日
Eggplants are garden cousins of tomato and pepper plants. When you grow eggplants in a backyard garden, expect them to grow in similar fashion to tomato plants. Gardeners often stake eggplant plants to give them sufficient support as they grow taller and larger throughout the growing season. Prune eggplants carefully throughout the growing season to ensure that the plants grow properly and produce a bounty of delicious eggplants.
Step 1
Watch the eggplant plants as they grow taller and larger. The stems of eggplants grow similarly to tomato plants, with suckers appearing between the main stalk and the side branches. If you do not prune away these suckers, they will divert plant energy and you may have fewer and smaller eggplants.
Step 2
Position the pruning shears so the blades are flush with the main stem and clip off the suckers flush with the stem.
Step 3
Discard the suckers in the bucket as you remove them. Never leave discarded plant pieces littering the soil beneath a plant because this may introduce bacteria and infection to the plant.
Step 4
Clip off the oldest leaves from the bottom two or three branches to improve air circulation throughout the eggplant.
Step 5
Check the eggplants once each week to find suckers, removing the suckers you find. Trim the bottom leaves once each month.
Step 1
Watch the eggplant plants as they grow taller and larger. The stems of eggplants grow similarly to tomato plants, with suckers appearing between the main stalk and the side branches. If you do not prune away these suckers, they will divert plant energy and you may have fewer and smaller eggplants.
Step 2
Position the pruning shears so the blades are flush with the main stem and clip off the suckers flush with the stem.
Step 3
Discard the suckers in the bucket as you remove them. Never leave discarded plant pieces littering the soil beneath a plant because this may introduce bacteria and infection to the plant.
Step 4
Clip off the oldest leaves from the bottom two or three branches to improve air circulation throughout the eggplant.
Step 5
Check the eggplants once each week to find suckers, removing the suckers you find. Trim the bottom leaves once each month.
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Miss Chen
2018年04月12日
Jalapenos are easy-to-grow pepper plants that produce abundantly if you live in an area with plenty of sunshine. The amount of time jalapenos produce in the garden depends on the length of your growing season. They begin bearing ripe fruit two to three months after being transplanted and continue to ripen fruit until frost.
About Jalapenos
Like all peppers, jalapenos are warm-weather crops and shouldn't be transplanted outside until both air and soil temperatures have warmed in the spring. Wait until night temperatures remain above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or you risk cold damage to the plants. Transplants will begin to bear ripe fruit in 70 to 85 days, depending on cultivar. Most gardeners start pepper plants indoors six to eight weeks before the anticipated set-out date, since jalapenos started from seed outdoors won't have harvestable fruit for about four months.
Temperature Requirements for Fruit Set
Jalapenos have a narrow temperature range during which they'll set fruit. Night temperatures must be above 60 F and below 75 F for successful fruit set; outside of that range the blossoms will fall off and fruit won't form. In addition, daytime temperatures above 90 F inhibits fruit formation, but fruiting will recommence once temperatures drop back below 90.
In the Fall
Jalapenos continue to ripen already-formed fruit throughout the fall, even if night temperatures are too cool for continued fruit set. However, the plants will die once subjected to frost. If frost is forecast for your area, either pull the entire plant and hang it in a warm, sheltered spot to allow the remaining fruit to ripen, or harvest all remaining fruit, regardless of size. Even small, immature jalapenos are tasty.
Identifying Ripe Jalapenos
Ripe jalapenos don't look very different than unripe ones, making it hard to tell when to pick them. The skin on ripe jalapenos should be dark green, smooth and shiny. Small cracks or lines that form on the shoulder of the fruit near the stem is an indication that the fruit is ripe. Darkened areas are also a sign that the fruit is ripe and is about to turn color. You can let jalapenos turn red on the vine, but their texture is softer and they won't keep as long as green ones. Red jalapenos are no hotter than ripe green fruit.
About Jalapenos
Like all peppers, jalapenos are warm-weather crops and shouldn't be transplanted outside until both air and soil temperatures have warmed in the spring. Wait until night temperatures remain above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or you risk cold damage to the plants. Transplants will begin to bear ripe fruit in 70 to 85 days, depending on cultivar. Most gardeners start pepper plants indoors six to eight weeks before the anticipated set-out date, since jalapenos started from seed outdoors won't have harvestable fruit for about four months.
Temperature Requirements for Fruit Set
Jalapenos have a narrow temperature range during which they'll set fruit. Night temperatures must be above 60 F and below 75 F for successful fruit set; outside of that range the blossoms will fall off and fruit won't form. In addition, daytime temperatures above 90 F inhibits fruit formation, but fruiting will recommence once temperatures drop back below 90.
In the Fall
Jalapenos continue to ripen already-formed fruit throughout the fall, even if night temperatures are too cool for continued fruit set. However, the plants will die once subjected to frost. If frost is forecast for your area, either pull the entire plant and hang it in a warm, sheltered spot to allow the remaining fruit to ripen, or harvest all remaining fruit, regardless of size. Even small, immature jalapenos are tasty.
Identifying Ripe Jalapenos
Ripe jalapenos don't look very different than unripe ones, making it hard to tell when to pick them. The skin on ripe jalapenos should be dark green, smooth and shiny. Small cracks or lines that form on the shoulder of the fruit near the stem is an indication that the fruit is ripe. Darkened areas are also a sign that the fruit is ripe and is about to turn color. You can let jalapenos turn red on the vine, but their texture is softer and they won't keep as long as green ones. Red jalapenos are no hotter than ripe green fruit.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月10日
Okra plants turning yellow signal potentially disastrous problems. Yellowed leaves lack chlorophyll, the catalyst that converts sunlight to food for the plant. As the plant starves, okra's natural resistance to insects and disease declines. Yellowed leaves sometimes indicate problems gardeners can easily remedy, but other issues require long-term solutions, such as crop rotation and soil improvement.
Poor Soil
Planting okra seed in soil colder than 65 degrees Fahrenheit could cause immediate root problems. Waiting to plant until about 10 days after the last frost date gives soil time to warm enough for okra. Mounding the planting row also raises the soil temperature. Lack of nitrogen could also cause yellowing problems in okra, which needs rich well-drained soil for proper growth. Increasing the amount of organic material in the ground improves drainage and reduces okra problems in heavy clay. Cultivate the ground deeply before planting, turning over the top 8 to 10 inches of soil.
Fungal Infection
Dense clay soils with poor drainage provide favorable conditions for fungal disease in okra. Okra shows no resistance to verticillium wilt, which damages okra roots and causes wilting and yellowing of the plant above ground. Lower leaves show symptoms first, and problems move higher on the plant as the disease spreads. Leaves shrivel and die in the final stages of the infection. No chemical treatment will help okra infected with verticillium wilt. Fungal spores overwinter in soil, setting the stage for more problems. Solarization by heating the upper layers of soil under clear plastic sheeting reduces the incidence of verticillium wilt.
Insect Problems
Sucking insects could attack okra, and cause loss of vigor and dying leaves. Red spider mites suck the plant's sap from leaf surfaces, causing a speckled, white or yellow pattern on leaves. In heavy infestations, leaves turn pale and then shrivel and brown. Aphids also drain the plant of nourishment by sucking fluid from leaves and stems. Both adult tobacco whiteflies and whitefly nymphs feed on okra sap and could cause plants to wilt and yellow. Checking the undersides of leaves and the stems of okra plants should reveal any insect problems. Spraying the plants with insecticidal soap destroys soft-bodied pests.
Nematodes
Nematodes could cause serious damage to okra as the small roundworms bore into roots. When the plant's wound heals, galls or root-knots form. Severely affected okra plants lose the ability to draw up water and nutrition from the soil. The upper plant yellows and dies. No chemical treatments are approved for nematode problems in the home garden, according to the University of Florida Extension. Gardeners can control nematodes through crop rotation, planting okra after crops such as corn, brassicas or onions. Cover cropping with marigolds and turning the plants under reduces nematode numbers. Improving soil quality by adding humus and repeatedly tilling the ground also prepares a healthier plot for okra.
Poor Soil
Planting okra seed in soil colder than 65 degrees Fahrenheit could cause immediate root problems. Waiting to plant until about 10 days after the last frost date gives soil time to warm enough for okra. Mounding the planting row also raises the soil temperature. Lack of nitrogen could also cause yellowing problems in okra, which needs rich well-drained soil for proper growth. Increasing the amount of organic material in the ground improves drainage and reduces okra problems in heavy clay. Cultivate the ground deeply before planting, turning over the top 8 to 10 inches of soil.
Fungal Infection
Dense clay soils with poor drainage provide favorable conditions for fungal disease in okra. Okra shows no resistance to verticillium wilt, which damages okra roots and causes wilting and yellowing of the plant above ground. Lower leaves show symptoms first, and problems move higher on the plant as the disease spreads. Leaves shrivel and die in the final stages of the infection. No chemical treatment will help okra infected with verticillium wilt. Fungal spores overwinter in soil, setting the stage for more problems. Solarization by heating the upper layers of soil under clear plastic sheeting reduces the incidence of verticillium wilt.
Insect Problems
Sucking insects could attack okra, and cause loss of vigor and dying leaves. Red spider mites suck the plant's sap from leaf surfaces, causing a speckled, white or yellow pattern on leaves. In heavy infestations, leaves turn pale and then shrivel and brown. Aphids also drain the plant of nourishment by sucking fluid from leaves and stems. Both adult tobacco whiteflies and whitefly nymphs feed on okra sap and could cause plants to wilt and yellow. Checking the undersides of leaves and the stems of okra plants should reveal any insect problems. Spraying the plants with insecticidal soap destroys soft-bodied pests.
Nematodes
Nematodes could cause serious damage to okra as the small roundworms bore into roots. When the plant's wound heals, galls or root-knots form. Severely affected okra plants lose the ability to draw up water and nutrition from the soil. The upper plant yellows and dies. No chemical treatments are approved for nematode problems in the home garden, according to the University of Florida Extension. Gardeners can control nematodes through crop rotation, planting okra after crops such as corn, brassicas or onions. Cover cropping with marigolds and turning the plants under reduces nematode numbers. Improving soil quality by adding humus and repeatedly tilling the ground also prepares a healthier plot for okra.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月08日
Green peppers are often referred to as sweet or bell peppers and come in many varieties. Pepper plants originated in tropical areas of the world where they grow as perennials. However, these tender warm-season vegetables are usually planted annually in summer vegetable gardens. Most pepper plants can take from 60 to 95 days from sowing to harvest, but you may not know that green peppers are actually not fully mature.
Temperature Requirements
Most gardeners either start green peppers from seeds indoors seven to 10 weeks ahead of the proposed planting date or purchase green pepper transplants in the spring because of the temperatures required for growing these tender plants. The best temperature for growing peppers is no more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and not less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night. You must wait until the soil has warmed in the spring and there is no more chance of frost to plant peppers outside.
Soil and Light Requirements
Providing the ideal growing environment for the green pepper plants to develop and begin producing fruits starts with the planting location. Pepper plants prefer well-drained, moderately rich soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. If possible, test your soil and alter it accordingly depending on the results. Amending the soil with 3 inches of organic matter is a common practice to enrich the soil without testing. Green peppers require full sunlight for more than six hours.
Planting Green Peppers
Only purchase healthy green pepper plants with three or more sets of leaves and no blossoms. Water the plants well before planting. Wait for a cloudy, cool day to place the transplants in the vegetable garden. Space the pepper transplants at least 18 inches apart and in rows at least 24 inches apart. Dig holes to plant them at the same depth and saturate the soil to remove any air pockets. Apply a starter fertilizer at half-strength to each plant.
Maintenance and Harvest
Maintain the plants properly to ensure ideal growth and development occurs. Place a layer of mulch around the peppers to retain soil moisture and avert weeds or remove the weeds manually. Water the green pepper plants as needed to maintain moist but not soggy soil. Apply a vegetable fertilizer as directed while the plants are growing. Harvest the green peppers when the fruits have reached the size desired. Remove the peppers from the plants with a sharp knife or pruner to prevent damage.
Varieties and Days to Harvest
Sweet bell hybrid peppers change from green to red, including varieties like Bell Boy, Brigadier and Enterprise (71 days) and Palidin, Ranger and Sentry (75 days). Green ornamental peppers include NeMex Twilight and Thai Hot (70 days). Hot hybrid green peppers include Ancho Ranchero (70 days), Ancho Vila (80 days), Cherry Bomb (68 days), Grande and Super Chili (75 days). Open-pollinated sweet and hot green peppers include Queen (68 days), Valencia (70 days), Red Chill (82 days) and Ancho Gigantia (90 days).
Temperature Requirements
Most gardeners either start green peppers from seeds indoors seven to 10 weeks ahead of the proposed planting date or purchase green pepper transplants in the spring because of the temperatures required for growing these tender plants. The best temperature for growing peppers is no more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and not less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night. You must wait until the soil has warmed in the spring and there is no more chance of frost to plant peppers outside.
Soil and Light Requirements
Providing the ideal growing environment for the green pepper plants to develop and begin producing fruits starts with the planting location. Pepper plants prefer well-drained, moderately rich soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. If possible, test your soil and alter it accordingly depending on the results. Amending the soil with 3 inches of organic matter is a common practice to enrich the soil without testing. Green peppers require full sunlight for more than six hours.
Planting Green Peppers
Only purchase healthy green pepper plants with three or more sets of leaves and no blossoms. Water the plants well before planting. Wait for a cloudy, cool day to place the transplants in the vegetable garden. Space the pepper transplants at least 18 inches apart and in rows at least 24 inches apart. Dig holes to plant them at the same depth and saturate the soil to remove any air pockets. Apply a starter fertilizer at half-strength to each plant.
Maintenance and Harvest
Maintain the plants properly to ensure ideal growth and development occurs. Place a layer of mulch around the peppers to retain soil moisture and avert weeds or remove the weeds manually. Water the green pepper plants as needed to maintain moist but not soggy soil. Apply a vegetable fertilizer as directed while the plants are growing. Harvest the green peppers when the fruits have reached the size desired. Remove the peppers from the plants with a sharp knife or pruner to prevent damage.
Varieties and Days to Harvest
Sweet bell hybrid peppers change from green to red, including varieties like Bell Boy, Brigadier and Enterprise (71 days) and Palidin, Ranger and Sentry (75 days). Green ornamental peppers include NeMex Twilight and Thai Hot (70 days). Hot hybrid green peppers include Ancho Ranchero (70 days), Ancho Vila (80 days), Cherry Bomb (68 days), Grande and Super Chili (75 days). Open-pollinated sweet and hot green peppers include Queen (68 days), Valencia (70 days), Red Chill (82 days) and Ancho Gigantia (90 days).
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月08日
Bean plants are among the easiest vegetables to grow. They germinate quickly under the right conditions and produce flowers and fruit within 50 to 65 days, depending on the variety. If planted too early, though, beans may be slow to germinate or fail to germinate at all. Pay close attention to planting times and seed depth.
Time Frame
Under good conditions, beans germinate in eight to 10 days. Beans may take two weeks or longer if the soil temperature is under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Wait until daytime temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit before planting bean seeds for fast germination.
Moisture
Many people soak bean seeds before planting, but this procedure can actually hamper germination by causing the seeds to crack or rot. Beans germinate best in evenly moist, but not soggy soil. Heavy clay soils tend to stay wet longer in the spring. Amend them with organic matter such as compost or manure to improve drainage, or plant green beans in raised beds.
Warmth
In addition to improving drainage, raised beds warm up earlier in the spring, making them a good choice for gardeners in areas with short seasons. Another option is to lay black plastic over the soil two weeks before planting bean seeds. The plastic warms the soil and hastens seed germination. Remove the plastic before planting or cut slits in the plastic and leave it in place all summer. Plant green bean seeds 1 inch deep in sandy soils and 1/2 inch deep in clay soils that stay cold longer.
Considerations
Planting beans in cups is a common preschool or kindergarten activity because the seeds germinate predictably, offering a first lesson in gardening. Beans don't handle transplanting well, though. Plant seeds directly in the garden after the soil has warmed for best results, rather than starting seeds indoors.
Time Frame
Under good conditions, beans germinate in eight to 10 days. Beans may take two weeks or longer if the soil temperature is under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Wait until daytime temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit before planting bean seeds for fast germination.
Moisture
Many people soak bean seeds before planting, but this procedure can actually hamper germination by causing the seeds to crack or rot. Beans germinate best in evenly moist, but not soggy soil. Heavy clay soils tend to stay wet longer in the spring. Amend them with organic matter such as compost or manure to improve drainage, or plant green beans in raised beds.
Warmth
In addition to improving drainage, raised beds warm up earlier in the spring, making them a good choice for gardeners in areas with short seasons. Another option is to lay black plastic over the soil two weeks before planting bean seeds. The plastic warms the soil and hastens seed germination. Remove the plastic before planting or cut slits in the plastic and leave it in place all summer. Plant green bean seeds 1 inch deep in sandy soils and 1/2 inch deep in clay soils that stay cold longer.
Considerations
Planting beans in cups is a common preschool or kindergarten activity because the seeds germinate predictably, offering a first lesson in gardening. Beans don't handle transplanting well, though. Plant seeds directly in the garden after the soil has warmed for best results, rather than starting seeds indoors.
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求助
kaylawolfe97
2018年04月06日
I'm not sure what kind of plants these are I'm extremely new to gardening to help with my anxiety and depression and I really don't want to mess up, knowing what kind of succulents/cacti I am caring for seems to be good start, also I don't have and pots for them so I kind of just put them in some tin cans 😂
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meriunkat：I feel like I bought mine for the same reason unconsciously, do those cans have holes underneath? The objects you use as pots need drainage. The first succulent is called either Pachycerous Schottii or Cerus Hidmannianus Subsp. Uruguayanus, a common nickn3is "Fairy Castle". The second succulent is called Kalanchoe Tomentosa, a common nickname is "Panda Plant".
文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月25日
Gardeners have long known that some plants seem to grow better when grouped together, while others seem to conflict. Companion planting is a gardening technique that emphasizes plant compatibility; for instance, climbing vines and tall plants, such as tomatoes and corn, work well when paired with low-growing crops, such as beets and cucumbers, since they do not compete with each other for space.
Companion Planting
Choosing plants that are able to share space harmoniously allows gardeners to place different specimens close together, maximizing the productivity of a given area. The secret to successful companion planting is choosing vegetables that balance each other and have similar environmental needs. Vegetables that compete for nutrients, sunlight, or root space make poor companions. For example, tall, heat-loving, long-season plants are complemented by short-season, ground-hugging plants or small, below-ground crops.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are a vegetable garden favorite, but they are also heat lovers that require full sun. As such, they cannot be planted beneath other garden plants. However, the area around the base of a tomato plant is often an ideal location for shallow-rooted, shade-tolerant plants, or bite-sized root vegetables. Surround tomatoes with beets, baby carrots, garlic, green onions, sage, chives and marigolds for the best results; not only to these plants grow well in the shade provided by towering tomato plants, they seem to improve the productivity of the tomato vines.
Beets
Beets are valued for both their flavorsome roots and their leafy tops. They are well adapted to most climates and flourish when set in full sun or partial shade; however, they tend to grow best in temperate regions and flourish when planted near bok choy, broccoli, cauliflower, bush beans, cabbage or tomatoes. This mid-season plant can be set out three weeks before the expected date of the final frost. Once the young sprouts emerge, they are ready to harvest 48 to 50 days later. This opens up a small area of the garden that can then be replanted with a short-season vegetable such as radishes or lettuce.
Spacing
Companion plants can be set fairly close together, saving valuable garden space. To determine the appropriate distance between companion plants, combine the suggested spacing for each plant, then divide the total by two. For example, beets should be spaced 4 inches apart, and tomatoes should have at least 24 inches of room between them. Allow at least 16 inches between beets and tomatoes.
Companion Planting
Choosing plants that are able to share space harmoniously allows gardeners to place different specimens close together, maximizing the productivity of a given area. The secret to successful companion planting is choosing vegetables that balance each other and have similar environmental needs. Vegetables that compete for nutrients, sunlight, or root space make poor companions. For example, tall, heat-loving, long-season plants are complemented by short-season, ground-hugging plants or small, below-ground crops.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are a vegetable garden favorite, but they are also heat lovers that require full sun. As such, they cannot be planted beneath other garden plants. However, the area around the base of a tomato plant is often an ideal location for shallow-rooted, shade-tolerant plants, or bite-sized root vegetables. Surround tomatoes with beets, baby carrots, garlic, green onions, sage, chives and marigolds for the best results; not only to these plants grow well in the shade provided by towering tomato plants, they seem to improve the productivity of the tomato vines.
Beets
Beets are valued for both their flavorsome roots and their leafy tops. They are well adapted to most climates and flourish when set in full sun or partial shade; however, they tend to grow best in temperate regions and flourish when planted near bok choy, broccoli, cauliflower, bush beans, cabbage or tomatoes. This mid-season plant can be set out three weeks before the expected date of the final frost. Once the young sprouts emerge, they are ready to harvest 48 to 50 days later. This opens up a small area of the garden that can then be replanted with a short-season vegetable such as radishes or lettuce.
Spacing
Companion plants can be set fairly close together, saving valuable garden space. To determine the appropriate distance between companion plants, combine the suggested spacing for each plant, then divide the total by two. For example, beets should be spaced 4 inches apart, and tomatoes should have at least 24 inches of room between them. Allow at least 16 inches between beets and tomatoes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月25日
Cucumbers, squashes and melons are all in the cucurbita family of plants. Most of them make long vines, but some do not. They look very similar as seedlings, but as they begin to flower and make fruit, it is easier to tell them apart in the garden. Looking at the flower size, the shape of the tiny fruit behind the female flowers, and the general habit of the plant will give you an idea of what vegetable you are looking at.
Step 1
Observe the growth habit of the plant in question. Cucumber and melon plants are usually smaller at first than squash plants. The leaves are smaller, and the stems are not as thick. Summer and winter squash plants grow very fast in the early days of summer, whereas melon and cucumber plants take a while to get big.
Step 2
Look at the shape of the leaf. A watermelon plant has a characteristic appearance: it is more deeply lobed than a cantaloupe, squash or cucumber leaf. If you are looking at a watermelon plant, it is likely that the vines have started running along the ground almost immediately.
Step 3
Determine if the plant is trying to climb upwards using tendrils, or if it is running along the ground. A cucumber plant will attempt to grow vertically, putting out strong tendrils that will grab onto anything and pull the plant upwards. Some melons will climb, although more weakly. Summer squash never puts out tendrils, although some winter squash do. Summer squash will stay bushy rather than sending out vines and tendrils along the ground.
Step 4
Check the stem to see if it is somewhat spiny. The stems of squash plants are often somewhat prickly, whereas cucumbers and melons never are. Their stems are somewhat fragile looking compared to squash stems. Next, observe the flower, once the plant begins flowering. Cucumber and melon flowers will be small, about the size of a nickel, whereas squash flowers are large, several inches across. The flowers open in the morning, and there are male and female flowers. The female flowers will be the ones that form the fruit.
Step 5
Check below the flower and see if a small fruit is forming there. Once the female flower has been pollinated by insects, the flower will close and wilt, and a small fruit will form at the base of the flower. Look at the size and shape of this fruit to see what kind of cucurbita it is. Cucumbers will usually form long thin fruits, a watermelon or cantaloupe will be round, and some winter squash have a characteristic bulge at one end of the fruit.
Step 1
Observe the growth habit of the plant in question. Cucumber and melon plants are usually smaller at first than squash plants. The leaves are smaller, and the stems are not as thick. Summer and winter squash plants grow very fast in the early days of summer, whereas melon and cucumber plants take a while to get big.
Step 2
Look at the shape of the leaf. A watermelon plant has a characteristic appearance: it is more deeply lobed than a cantaloupe, squash or cucumber leaf. If you are looking at a watermelon plant, it is likely that the vines have started running along the ground almost immediately.
Step 3
Determine if the plant is trying to climb upwards using tendrils, or if it is running along the ground. A cucumber plant will attempt to grow vertically, putting out strong tendrils that will grab onto anything and pull the plant upwards. Some melons will climb, although more weakly. Summer squash never puts out tendrils, although some winter squash do. Summer squash will stay bushy rather than sending out vines and tendrils along the ground.
Step 4
Check the stem to see if it is somewhat spiny. The stems of squash plants are often somewhat prickly, whereas cucumbers and melons never are. Their stems are somewhat fragile looking compared to squash stems. Next, observe the flower, once the plant begins flowering. Cucumber and melon flowers will be small, about the size of a nickel, whereas squash flowers are large, several inches across. The flowers open in the morning, and there are male and female flowers. The female flowers will be the ones that form the fruit.
Step 5
Check below the flower and see if a small fruit is forming there. Once the female flower has been pollinated by insects, the flower will close and wilt, and a small fruit will form at the base of the flower. Look at the size and shape of this fruit to see what kind of cucurbita it is. Cucumbers will usually form long thin fruits, a watermelon or cantaloupe will be round, and some winter squash have a characteristic bulge at one end of the fruit.
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