文章
keira b
2017年11月25日
I have been wondering for a while how I could sell my plants .do you have any ideas?
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月25日
Tomato plants (Lycopersicon lycopersicum) technically produce fruits, but people use the fruits as vegetables in salads and other dishes too numerous to list. Unfortunately, squirrels eat tomato fruits, too, passing up unripe green ones to eat only those that are ripe red. Foiling hungry squirrels is never simple. Tomato plants usually are grown as annuals.
Use Dogs and Cats
The old-fashioned method of letting a dog roam the garden is one way of discouraging squirrels from eating tomato fruits. They don't like cats either. Cats prey on squirrels.
Not all dogs are equal for this chore. Some dogs are squirrel specialists. For example, the American squirrel dog is bred to chase squirrels. A German pinscher is specifically bred to chase squirrels and other rodents.
Build Physical Barriers
Keep squirrels from eating your tomato fruits by covering your plants with plastic bird netting, chicken wire or hardware cloth; all of those barrier items are available at many garden supply centers. Whether or not this method is practical depends on the variety of tomato plants you grow.
Indeterminate tomatoes, including heirloom varieties, yield fruits all summer, but those plants are climbers that need to be staked. They can grow 10 to 12 feet tall, although 6 to 8 feet is more usual, hardly a size that you can easily surround with a barrier.
Determinate tomatoes, which usually bear fruits in late June, typically remain under 5 feet tall. So they are possible candidates for covering with bird netting.
Dwarf tomatoes, which are hybrid determinate cultivars, grow as low as 3 feet high and spread 3 feet wide. They are small enough to cover with bird netting or even chicken wire or hardware cloth.
Cage small determinate or dwarf tomato plants by encircling each of them with chicken wire and stringing bird netting over each one's top. Fasten the netting in place with clothespins. When you harvest your tomato fruits, simply remove the netting, and then put it back in place.
Wrap individual ripening tomato fruits with bird netting.
Use Smell, Bad and Good
Squirrels can smell predators, including dogs and cats, and avoid predator-scented areas. Collect dog or cat hair in a vacuum cleaner, or get some from a pet store. Put the hair in a nylon stocking or porous bag, and place the stocking or bag at the foot of your tomato plants. A variation of this method is to spray urine from wolves or other squirrel predators on the ground at the base of your tomato plants. Some garden supply stores offer predator urine.
Squirrels avoid the odor of blood meal, too. It is a dry powder extracted from slaughterhouse waste and sometimes is used as an organic fertilizer; it is available at plant nurseries and garden supply centers. Spread blood meal on the soil around your tomato plants, using fewer than 4 ounces of blood meal per 1 square yard. Blood meal contains high levels of ammonia and nitrogen; so do not apply more than that amount.
Combine 5 ounces bottle of hot pepper sauce and 1 teaspoon of a liquid, mild detergent with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on the bases of your tomato plants. Respray the plants with the mixture every few days for two weeks while the squirrels learn to avoid your tomatoes. Also respray after it rains.
Establish a squirrel hangout with peanuts, corn, sunflower seeds and other food squirrels eat; you could even include some tomatoes in the mix. Give the squirrels water at the hangout, too. Place the hangout in an isolated spot well away from your tomatoes. If they get their fill at the hangout, they'll have no reason to raid your tomatoes.
Use Water and Motion
Install a motion-activated sprinkler that will douse the critters with water when they invade your garden.
Another option is to install pinwheels, compact disks or aluminum pie tins in your garden. They will move and flash whenever the wind blows. These items work for a while, and then squirrels get used to them and go for the garden's tomatoes.
Use Dogs and Cats
The old-fashioned method of letting a dog roam the garden is one way of discouraging squirrels from eating tomato fruits. They don't like cats either. Cats prey on squirrels.
Not all dogs are equal for this chore. Some dogs are squirrel specialists. For example, the American squirrel dog is bred to chase squirrels. A German pinscher is specifically bred to chase squirrels and other rodents.
Build Physical Barriers
Keep squirrels from eating your tomato fruits by covering your plants with plastic bird netting, chicken wire or hardware cloth; all of those barrier items are available at many garden supply centers. Whether or not this method is practical depends on the variety of tomato plants you grow.
Indeterminate tomatoes, including heirloom varieties, yield fruits all summer, but those plants are climbers that need to be staked. They can grow 10 to 12 feet tall, although 6 to 8 feet is more usual, hardly a size that you can easily surround with a barrier.
Determinate tomatoes, which usually bear fruits in late June, typically remain under 5 feet tall. So they are possible candidates for covering with bird netting.
Dwarf tomatoes, which are hybrid determinate cultivars, grow as low as 3 feet high and spread 3 feet wide. They are small enough to cover with bird netting or even chicken wire or hardware cloth.
Cage small determinate or dwarf tomato plants by encircling each of them with chicken wire and stringing bird netting over each one's top. Fasten the netting in place with clothespins. When you harvest your tomato fruits, simply remove the netting, and then put it back in place.
Wrap individual ripening tomato fruits with bird netting.
Use Smell, Bad and Good
Squirrels can smell predators, including dogs and cats, and avoid predator-scented areas. Collect dog or cat hair in a vacuum cleaner, or get some from a pet store. Put the hair in a nylon stocking or porous bag, and place the stocking or bag at the foot of your tomato plants. A variation of this method is to spray urine from wolves or other squirrel predators on the ground at the base of your tomato plants. Some garden supply stores offer predator urine.
Squirrels avoid the odor of blood meal, too. It is a dry powder extracted from slaughterhouse waste and sometimes is used as an organic fertilizer; it is available at plant nurseries and garden supply centers. Spread blood meal on the soil around your tomato plants, using fewer than 4 ounces of blood meal per 1 square yard. Blood meal contains high levels of ammonia and nitrogen; so do not apply more than that amount.
Combine 5 ounces bottle of hot pepper sauce and 1 teaspoon of a liquid, mild detergent with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on the bases of your tomato plants. Respray the plants with the mixture every few days for two weeks while the squirrels learn to avoid your tomatoes. Also respray after it rains.
Establish a squirrel hangout with peanuts, corn, sunflower seeds and other food squirrels eat; you could even include some tomatoes in the mix. Give the squirrels water at the hangout, too. Place the hangout in an isolated spot well away from your tomatoes. If they get their fill at the hangout, they'll have no reason to raid your tomatoes.
Use Water and Motion
Install a motion-activated sprinkler that will douse the critters with water when they invade your garden.
Another option is to install pinwheels, compact disks or aluminum pie tins in your garden. They will move and flash whenever the wind blows. These items work for a while, and then squirrels get used to them and go for the garden's tomatoes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月25日
If you have a vegetable garden or are thinking of starting one, tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are likely on your list of plants to grow. If you're looking for a variety that has flavorful, all-purpose fruits, a tomato called "Better Boy" could be the perfect choice. An indeterminate plant that keeps growing all season long, this plant thrives in strong light and good garden soil, with just a little extra care ensuring a heavy yield. Tomatoes are grown as annuals in all parts of the United States.
Planting Seedlings
Sow "Better Boy" seeds indoors about six or eight weeks before you expect outdoor temperature to stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit at night, using moist sterile potting soil or soil-less mix. Cover seeds with 1/8 inch of mix and, once seedlings appear, keep them in a sunny spot or under fluorescent grow lights. You can also buy seedlings at a garden center but, in either case, harden plants off for a week or two by gradually increasing their exposure to outdoor air and light.
Space "Better Boy" seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart , with 4 feet between rows. Remove the bottom two leaves from each plant and plant in a deep hole, so that these leaf nodes are covered by soil. Planting deep encourages rooting from the stem, making a well-seated plant.
Sun, Soil and Water
"Better Boy" tomatoes thrive and fruit heavily when grown in a spot that gets full sun, with six hours of sun a minimum for good results. They also need fertile soil. When planting, add 2 or 3 inches of compost to the bottom of each hole, along with a handful of bonemeal. Tomatoes also need magnesium for a good start; add 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts to each hole to provide this mineral.
Water the seedlings in well and then water evenly during the season, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. To prevent fungal problems, water early on sunny days so plants dry quickly, and use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to help keep foliage dry.
Feeding and Pruning
It takes about 70 days to get the first ripe "Better Boy" tomatoes, but feeding the plants is important for a good harvest. Start fertilizing when the first fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, and then feed again when harvest begins. Use a low-nitrogen formula such as 5-10-5, side-dressing each plant with about 1/2 cup of the granular fertilizer, but turn the fertilizer into the soil gently to avoid disturbing roots.
"Better Boy" is an indeterminate variety that grows all season long, so it benefits from pruning to maximize fruiting and keep its size under control. As the plant grows, allow only one or two main stems to grow and remove suckers -- shoots appearing where each leaf originates -- to funnel the plant's energy into fruiting, using shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spread of disease. Also, help the plant produce the last ripe fruits by cutting back its fruitless top near the end of summer.
Support and Possible Problems
"Better Boy" is a heavy producer, with individual fruits weighing up to 1 pound each, so they benefit from support while growing. Either drive a sturdy stake into the ground, using soft ties to attach the stem to the stake at intervals, or use a commercial tomato cage for support, tying the plant to its wire as needed.
These plants are susceptible to fungal disorders and fruit cracking, but ensuring constant, even moisture and giving plants lots of space in well-drained soil helps avoid these problems. They can attract pests such as large green hornworms and striped potato beetles, which can be hand-picked, and aphids, which are best controlled by washing plants with a strong water stream.
Planting Seedlings
Sow "Better Boy" seeds indoors about six or eight weeks before you expect outdoor temperature to stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit at night, using moist sterile potting soil or soil-less mix. Cover seeds with 1/8 inch of mix and, once seedlings appear, keep them in a sunny spot or under fluorescent grow lights. You can also buy seedlings at a garden center but, in either case, harden plants off for a week or two by gradually increasing their exposure to outdoor air and light.
Space "Better Boy" seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart , with 4 feet between rows. Remove the bottom two leaves from each plant and plant in a deep hole, so that these leaf nodes are covered by soil. Planting deep encourages rooting from the stem, making a well-seated plant.
Sun, Soil and Water
"Better Boy" tomatoes thrive and fruit heavily when grown in a spot that gets full sun, with six hours of sun a minimum for good results. They also need fertile soil. When planting, add 2 or 3 inches of compost to the bottom of each hole, along with a handful of bonemeal. Tomatoes also need magnesium for a good start; add 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts to each hole to provide this mineral.
Water the seedlings in well and then water evenly during the season, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. To prevent fungal problems, water early on sunny days so plants dry quickly, and use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to help keep foliage dry.
Feeding and Pruning
It takes about 70 days to get the first ripe "Better Boy" tomatoes, but feeding the plants is important for a good harvest. Start fertilizing when the first fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, and then feed again when harvest begins. Use a low-nitrogen formula such as 5-10-5, side-dressing each plant with about 1/2 cup of the granular fertilizer, but turn the fertilizer into the soil gently to avoid disturbing roots.
"Better Boy" is an indeterminate variety that grows all season long, so it benefits from pruning to maximize fruiting and keep its size under control. As the plant grows, allow only one or two main stems to grow and remove suckers -- shoots appearing where each leaf originates -- to funnel the plant's energy into fruiting, using shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spread of disease. Also, help the plant produce the last ripe fruits by cutting back its fruitless top near the end of summer.
Support and Possible Problems
"Better Boy" is a heavy producer, with individual fruits weighing up to 1 pound each, so they benefit from support while growing. Either drive a sturdy stake into the ground, using soft ties to attach the stem to the stake at intervals, or use a commercial tomato cage for support, tying the plant to its wire as needed.
These plants are susceptible to fungal disorders and fruit cracking, but ensuring constant, even moisture and giving plants lots of space in well-drained soil helps avoid these problems. They can attract pests such as large green hornworms and striped potato beetles, which can be hand-picked, and aphids, which are best controlled by washing plants with a strong water stream.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
How much water a tomato plant needs depends on where it is in its life cycle. Tomato plants that are actively growing, flowering and setting fruit need more water than tomato plants that are still in the seedling stage (not having flowered yet). Water effects how the fruit looks: too much and the tomato will suffer from blossom-end rot; too little and the tomato will crack (also called cat facing).
Germinating Tomato Seeds
After sowing tomato seeds, it is important to keep the seed-sowing flat evenly moist. Don't water from above, as this might cause damping off. Place the flat in a larger shallow container that's filled with water. The flat will wick water from the container into the soil. Remove the flat when the soil is moist. When the surface of the soil starts to dry out, replace the flat in the container of water. Continue to do this until the seeds start to germinate.
Seedling Tomatoes
Seedling tomatoes should also be watered from the bottom up to avoid damping off and other bacterial disease. Once the seedling tomatoes have been potted into individual containers, allow the top 1/4 inch of soil to dry out before watering. Continue to allow the top 1/4 inch of soil to dry out while hardening off your seedlings. After transplanting your seedlings into the garden, gradually increase the time between watering until the top 2 to 3 inches of soil dries out before you water again. Do not allow your seedlings to wilt. The trick to watering tomatoes is to always water under the plant, as splashing water can cause disease, and water deeply and infrequently for deeper root growth. The longer the roots, the healthier the tomato plant and the less time you will have to water as the roots will pull water (and nutrients) up from deeper layers of soil. To water deeply, apply water to the soil until it starts pooling on the soil's surface. Stop watering when it takes one to two minutes for the pooled water to be absorbed by the soil.
Flowering
Flowering tomatoes need a steady supply of moisture to prevent decreased flowering and flower drop. Allow the top 2 to 3 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. You should only have to water every second or third day. Aim to give your tomato plants 1 to 2 inches of water a week. Remember that rain counts as a watering.
Fruiting
It is critical that your tomato plants receive adequate amounts of water while they are setting fruit. Inadequate water will cause your plant to stop flowering and to drop immature fruit. Too much water will cause your tomatoes to taste watery, and the skin to crack. Your tomato plants can withstand both insects and fungal or bacterial disease better if they're watered regularly. Continue to give your plants 1 to 2 inches of water a week; however, only allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Applying mulch, whether plastic or organic, will help conserve moisture and reduce the risks of soil-borne diseases. Your tomatoes may need more water if it is particularly hot and humid. Let the soil dryness indicate when your tomatoes need to be watered.
Late Summer/Early Fall
As the season winds down and late summer turns to fall, allow the top 2 to 3 inches of soil to dry out before watering. Two to three weeks before your first frost date, stop watering your tomatoes. Remove unripened tomatoes as the plants start to die back.
Germinating Tomato Seeds
After sowing tomato seeds, it is important to keep the seed-sowing flat evenly moist. Don't water from above, as this might cause damping off. Place the flat in a larger shallow container that's filled with water. The flat will wick water from the container into the soil. Remove the flat when the soil is moist. When the surface of the soil starts to dry out, replace the flat in the container of water. Continue to do this until the seeds start to germinate.
Seedling Tomatoes
Seedling tomatoes should also be watered from the bottom up to avoid damping off and other bacterial disease. Once the seedling tomatoes have been potted into individual containers, allow the top 1/4 inch of soil to dry out before watering. Continue to allow the top 1/4 inch of soil to dry out while hardening off your seedlings. After transplanting your seedlings into the garden, gradually increase the time between watering until the top 2 to 3 inches of soil dries out before you water again. Do not allow your seedlings to wilt. The trick to watering tomatoes is to always water under the plant, as splashing water can cause disease, and water deeply and infrequently for deeper root growth. The longer the roots, the healthier the tomato plant and the less time you will have to water as the roots will pull water (and nutrients) up from deeper layers of soil. To water deeply, apply water to the soil until it starts pooling on the soil's surface. Stop watering when it takes one to two minutes for the pooled water to be absorbed by the soil.
Flowering
Flowering tomatoes need a steady supply of moisture to prevent decreased flowering and flower drop. Allow the top 2 to 3 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. You should only have to water every second or third day. Aim to give your tomato plants 1 to 2 inches of water a week. Remember that rain counts as a watering.
Fruiting
It is critical that your tomato plants receive adequate amounts of water while they are setting fruit. Inadequate water will cause your plant to stop flowering and to drop immature fruit. Too much water will cause your tomatoes to taste watery, and the skin to crack. Your tomato plants can withstand both insects and fungal or bacterial disease better if they're watered regularly. Continue to give your plants 1 to 2 inches of water a week; however, only allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Applying mulch, whether plastic or organic, will help conserve moisture and reduce the risks of soil-borne diseases. Your tomatoes may need more water if it is particularly hot and humid. Let the soil dryness indicate when your tomatoes need to be watered.
Late Summer/Early Fall
As the season winds down and late summer turns to fall, allow the top 2 to 3 inches of soil to dry out before watering. Two to three weeks before your first frost date, stop watering your tomatoes. Remove unripened tomatoes as the plants start to die back.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
An invaluable growing method for both apartment-dwellers and homeowners not blessed with fertile soil, comes to the rescue even for larger annual edibles such as tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum).
Pot Size
How large a container you'll need for your tomato plant depends on what variety you're growing. Rather than considering the size of the tomatoes it will produce, check the seedling label to see whether the plant is indeterminate -- the big, sprawling, kind -- or the more compact determinate plant. The latter often works better for container gardening, but it is possible to "contain" larger tomato plants. In general, a pot that is 24 inches or more in diameter will hold an indeterminate tomato variety, and one that is 18 inches or larger will be big enough for determinate types.
Container Material
If you will be needing to move your tomatoes to keep them in the sun, or to position them for watering, avoid whisky barrels, as well as other heavy materials such as ceramic and terra cotta. Instead, look for plastic and fiberglass pots, which are lightweight -- or consider re-purposing a 5-gallon bucket. Whatever you choose, make sure it either comes with drainage holes, or has a surface that can be punctured with a drill, or a hammer and nail, to create holes.
Planting Medium
You may be able to find a pre-blended potting mix which is geared to growing tomatoes. Look for one that mentions tomatoes on its package, and which includes slow-release fertilizers and water-holding gels, as well as premium blend such as perlite, compost, peat moss, vermiculite and sand.
Alternatively, create your own mix by blending equal parts compost, potting soil, perlite and sphagnum peat moss. You might also choose to add about 1 cup dolomitic limestone for every 40 pounds of potting soil, along with 1/2 cup each of a prepared trace element mix, as well as powdered iron.
Make sure whatever blend you choose is thoroughly mixed before it goes in the container.
Potting Up
Step 1
Strip your tomato seedling of its lower leaves by pinching them off near the stem. This is the best way to encourage a strong stem and root system as the plant grows.
Step 2
Fill the pot about two-thirds full of your potting mix. If the drainage holes in your container are large ones, you can cut screening to size and place it at the bottom, before pouring in the soil. This will keep the soil from washing away after rainfall or watering.
Step 3
Place your tomato plant in the center of the container, and bury the stem up to its upper leaves. The bushy nature of tomato plants often means that only one will fit per container. The exception to this rule comes when you have a whiskey barrel or other large pot, as well as a few "tumbler" or other small varieties. Two or three of these can go in at a spacing of about 24 inches apart, or as noted on the nursery tag.
Step 4
Gently insert a tomato cage around the inside edges of the pot, or set a sturdy stake a few inches behind the plant. Setting up the support system at planting time means that you won't damage expanding roots later on.
Care
Tomatoes are , so place your pots where they will receive at least six hours of sun.
Container soil is notorious for drying out more quickly than that of traditional garden beds, especially when in clay pots. If the soil feels dry when you poke your finger into the first 1 or 2 inches, run a hose or watering can over the soil until water runs out the drainage holes. You may need to water daily during dry, hot weather.
About halfway through the growing season, begin supplementing the slow-release fertilizer in your potting mix with a water-soluble solution made for tomatoes. Typically, you'll mix about 1 ounce of the concentrate per 1 gallon of water, then water the tomato plant with it, leaves and all, but always check your tomato food's label. Nourish the tomato plant with this mix every two weeks, or as suggested on your fertilizer's package.
Pot Size
How large a container you'll need for your tomato plant depends on what variety you're growing. Rather than considering the size of the tomatoes it will produce, check the seedling label to see whether the plant is indeterminate -- the big, sprawling, kind -- or the more compact determinate plant. The latter often works better for container gardening, but it is possible to "contain" larger tomato plants. In general, a pot that is 24 inches or more in diameter will hold an indeterminate tomato variety, and one that is 18 inches or larger will be big enough for determinate types.
Container Material
If you will be needing to move your tomatoes to keep them in the sun, or to position them for watering, avoid whisky barrels, as well as other heavy materials such as ceramic and terra cotta. Instead, look for plastic and fiberglass pots, which are lightweight -- or consider re-purposing a 5-gallon bucket. Whatever you choose, make sure it either comes with drainage holes, or has a surface that can be punctured with a drill, or a hammer and nail, to create holes.
Planting Medium
You may be able to find a pre-blended potting mix which is geared to growing tomatoes. Look for one that mentions tomatoes on its package, and which includes slow-release fertilizers and water-holding gels, as well as premium blend such as perlite, compost, peat moss, vermiculite and sand.
Alternatively, create your own mix by blending equal parts compost, potting soil, perlite and sphagnum peat moss. You might also choose to add about 1 cup dolomitic limestone for every 40 pounds of potting soil, along with 1/2 cup each of a prepared trace element mix, as well as powdered iron.
Make sure whatever blend you choose is thoroughly mixed before it goes in the container.
Potting Up
Step 1
Strip your tomato seedling of its lower leaves by pinching them off near the stem. This is the best way to encourage a strong stem and root system as the plant grows.
Step 2
Fill the pot about two-thirds full of your potting mix. If the drainage holes in your container are large ones, you can cut screening to size and place it at the bottom, before pouring in the soil. This will keep the soil from washing away after rainfall or watering.
Step 3
Place your tomato plant in the center of the container, and bury the stem up to its upper leaves. The bushy nature of tomato plants often means that only one will fit per container. The exception to this rule comes when you have a whiskey barrel or other large pot, as well as a few "tumbler" or other small varieties. Two or three of these can go in at a spacing of about 24 inches apart, or as noted on the nursery tag.
Step 4
Gently insert a tomato cage around the inside edges of the pot, or set a sturdy stake a few inches behind the plant. Setting up the support system at planting time means that you won't damage expanding roots later on.
Care
Tomatoes are , so place your pots where they will receive at least six hours of sun.
Container soil is notorious for drying out more quickly than that of traditional garden beds, especially when in clay pots. If the soil feels dry when you poke your finger into the first 1 or 2 inches, run a hose or watering can over the soil until water runs out the drainage holes. You may need to water daily during dry, hot weather.
About halfway through the growing season, begin supplementing the slow-release fertilizer in your potting mix with a water-soluble solution made for tomatoes. Typically, you'll mix about 1 ounce of the concentrate per 1 gallon of water, then water the tomato plant with it, leaves and all, but always check your tomato food's label. Nourish the tomato plant with this mix every two weeks, or as suggested on your fertilizer's package.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
A vegetable garden isn't complete without a tomato plant (Lycopersicon esculentum) or two, if only for the pleasure of fresh tomatoes in midsummer. Even if you don't have the space for a large garden, tomato plants are suited to container gardening. Which means that if you have a 5-gallon bucket or two hanging around, you have the makings for a tomato garden.
Preparing the Buckets
Wash and sterilize buckets, even if they're new, with a solution of 2 tablespoons household bleach in 1 gallon of water, and allow them to air-dry. Drill 1/4- to 1/2-inch holes on the lower edge of the bucket for drainage, spacing them about 2 inches apart all the way around. Place a 2-inch layer of coarse gravel or small stones in the bottom to prevent water from pooling, should the holes get plugged with soil.
Soil Choices
Growing mixes specifically designed for tomatoes go a long way toward minimizing the risk of soil-borne diseases, and provide the right conditions for proper root development. Not all potting soils are alike: Some are dense and wet, while others are fluffy but low in nutrients. Your best bet is to make your own, using equal parts potting soil, sphagnum or peat moss, and well-aged compost or manure. Fill the buckets to halfway and set aside the extra soil to fill in around the plants.
Planting Properly
Dig a hole in the center of the growing mix to equal the size of the seedling's roots. Set it gently into the hole and bring the soil around the base of the stem. Add more soil until it comes up to just below the seedling's lowest leaves and pat gently. Fertilize with a starter solution of 3 to 4 tablespoons of an 8-8-8 blend in 1 gallon of water, adding no more than 1 cup of the mixture to each plant. Fertilize again when the fruit appears, and every four to six weeks through the growing season.
Support Systems
Tomato plants can get top-heavy once the fruit starts to set. Install support in the form of a stake or a tomato cage into the bucket right after planting. Poke the stake into the soil about 2 inches from the plant so you don't injure the roots. As the plant grows, attach it loosely to the stake with gardening twine or tomato clips. Insert a tomato cage into the soil up to the bottom rungs, and tuck the branches in as the plant grows.
General Care
Buy seedlings from a garden center, or start your own indoors in early spring. Transfer them outside when they are about 4 to 6 inches tall and when it is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit with no chance of frost. Place the buckets in a sunny spot, and inspect your tomato plants routinely for signs of fungal disease. Symptoms include dark, dead plant tissue, spots on the leaves and fruit, and fuzzy mildews on leaves and stems. Treat the plants with a solution of 1/2 to 2 ounces of liquid copper and 1 gallon of water, or according to label instructions. Spray all parts of the tomoatoes, including both sides of the leaves, when the disease appears, and every seven to 10 days until symptoms disappear.
Preparing the Buckets
Wash and sterilize buckets, even if they're new, with a solution of 2 tablespoons household bleach in 1 gallon of water, and allow them to air-dry. Drill 1/4- to 1/2-inch holes on the lower edge of the bucket for drainage, spacing them about 2 inches apart all the way around. Place a 2-inch layer of coarse gravel or small stones in the bottom to prevent water from pooling, should the holes get plugged with soil.
Soil Choices
Growing mixes specifically designed for tomatoes go a long way toward minimizing the risk of soil-borne diseases, and provide the right conditions for proper root development. Not all potting soils are alike: Some are dense and wet, while others are fluffy but low in nutrients. Your best bet is to make your own, using equal parts potting soil, sphagnum or peat moss, and well-aged compost or manure. Fill the buckets to halfway and set aside the extra soil to fill in around the plants.
Planting Properly
Dig a hole in the center of the growing mix to equal the size of the seedling's roots. Set it gently into the hole and bring the soil around the base of the stem. Add more soil until it comes up to just below the seedling's lowest leaves and pat gently. Fertilize with a starter solution of 3 to 4 tablespoons of an 8-8-8 blend in 1 gallon of water, adding no more than 1 cup of the mixture to each plant. Fertilize again when the fruit appears, and every four to six weeks through the growing season.
Support Systems
Tomato plants can get top-heavy once the fruit starts to set. Install support in the form of a stake or a tomato cage into the bucket right after planting. Poke the stake into the soil about 2 inches from the plant so you don't injure the roots. As the plant grows, attach it loosely to the stake with gardening twine or tomato clips. Insert a tomato cage into the soil up to the bottom rungs, and tuck the branches in as the plant grows.
General Care
Buy seedlings from a garden center, or start your own indoors in early spring. Transfer them outside when they are about 4 to 6 inches tall and when it is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit with no chance of frost. Place the buckets in a sunny spot, and inspect your tomato plants routinely for signs of fungal disease. Symptoms include dark, dead plant tissue, spots on the leaves and fruit, and fuzzy mildews on leaves and stems. Treat the plants with a solution of 1/2 to 2 ounces of liquid copper and 1 gallon of water, or according to label instructions. Spray all parts of the tomoatoes, including both sides of the leaves, when the disease appears, and every seven to 10 days until symptoms disappear.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
The juicy, lush flavor and rampant, easy-care growth makes tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) a garden favorite. While humans enjoy the sweet, tart flavor of the fruits, caterpillars are also attracted to the tomato plants, requiring quick action to remove the hungry invaders. Although the tomato plants will keep producing fruits, reducing the number of caterpillars on the plants will increase the harvest. Removal methods range from hand-picking to spraying insecticides.
About Tomato Plants
Although tomatoes are grown as annuals, the South American natives are tender perennials, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. The mature fruits range from grape to softball size and may be green, yellow, orange, red or purple. The plants are sprawling and bushy with vine-like branches. They require full sun and at least 1 inch of water per week -- and more in hot weather.
The Caterpillars
Several different types of caterpillars infest tomato plants and their fruits. You can identify the pest by its appearance and the damage it causes.
The tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is a large, green and white striped, smooth-skinned caterpillar with a "horn" on its tail. It has a segmented appearance accentuated by the stripes. A hornworm can defoliate entire branches overnight. Tomato hornworms grow up to 3 1/2 inches long.
The alfalfa looper (Autographa californica) and cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni) also feed on the foliage of a variety of plants, including tomatoes. Loopers are smooth green caterpillars that crawl by bringing their back legs forward, arching their backs, similar to an inchworm. They grow up to 1 1/2 inches long.
The tomato fruitworm (Helicoverpa zea) and tobacco budworm (Heliothis virescens) are similar in appearance, with young caterpillars ranging from cream to yellow and darkening to yellow-green or brown-red as they mature. Older caterpillars have tiny, thorn-like spines and grow up to 1 inch long. Both caterpillars attack and chew on the buds, blossoms and developing tomatoes. They enter the fruit by chewing a hole in the skin and then eat the inside of the tomato.
Variegated cutworms (Peridroma saucia) and black cutworms (Agrotis ipsilon) are among the cutworm species that attack new seedlings and tomato fruits. At night, the cutworm emerges from hiding in the dirt or plant debris and chews the tender stem of the seedling. It may also chew on the fruits, especially if the tomatoes are touching the ground. Cutworms are 1 to 2 inches long and smooth skinned. They curl up when touched.
Non-Insecticide Controls
Hand pick the caterpillars. Large caterpillars, such as the tomato hornworm, are easily hand picked from the tomato plant. Put on gloves if you're squeamish about touching caterpillars. Look at the plant and let your eyes follow the branch down the ragged stubs of the devoured leaves and eventually you'll see the fat green caterpillar amid the stems and leaves. Pluck it from the tomato plant and drop it into a bucket of soapy water.
Make cardboard collars to protect the tomato stems from cutworms. A simple 2 1/2-inch tall and 8-inch long cardboard collar formed into a circle and then pressed 1 inch into the soil surrounding the plant prevents the cutworm from encircling the stem and chewing it off. Alternately, cut off the bottom of a paper or plastic cup and insert the top portion of the cup into the soil to protect the tender stem.
Cultivate the soil after the harvest. By removing dead and dying vegetation and tilling the garden after the harvest, you can destroy many of the larvae and the pupae before winter. Fewer emerging moths in spring means fewer caterpillars to munch on your tomatoes next season.
Less Toxic Insecticides
In the home garden, targeting caterpillars with less toxic insecticides allows beneficial insects, such as bees, to continue to pollinate the other fruits and vegetables. In addition, using less toxic options means you can treat your tomatoes up to the day of harvest. Before mixing and applying any insecticides, put on gloves, safety goggles and a breathing mask to avoid contact with the insecticide. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium, is toxic to many caterpillar species, including hornworms, fruitworms, budworms and loopers. Mix a Bt concentrate at a rate of 1 to 3 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for hornworms and 2 to 4 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for other caterpillars. Spray the tomato's leaves until they are covered with the solution. Repeat weekly or as needed to control caterpillars.
Ready-to-use neem oil products may be used on a seven- to 14-day schedule. Apply the solution in the early morning or late evening to avoid burning the tomato plant. Shake the spray bottle well and spray the tomato plant until the leaves are soaked by the solution.
Spinosaid concentrate is mixed at 4 tablespoons per gallon of water and applied until the tomato plant is soaking wet. It kills infestations of loopers and other caterpillars. It may be reapplied four days apart and up to six times per year.
About Tomato Plants
Although tomatoes are grown as annuals, the South American natives are tender perennials, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. The mature fruits range from grape to softball size and may be green, yellow, orange, red or purple. The plants are sprawling and bushy with vine-like branches. They require full sun and at least 1 inch of water per week -- and more in hot weather.
The Caterpillars
Several different types of caterpillars infest tomato plants and their fruits. You can identify the pest by its appearance and the damage it causes.
The tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is a large, green and white striped, smooth-skinned caterpillar with a "horn" on its tail. It has a segmented appearance accentuated by the stripes. A hornworm can defoliate entire branches overnight. Tomato hornworms grow up to 3 1/2 inches long.
The alfalfa looper (Autographa californica) and cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni) also feed on the foliage of a variety of plants, including tomatoes. Loopers are smooth green caterpillars that crawl by bringing their back legs forward, arching their backs, similar to an inchworm. They grow up to 1 1/2 inches long.
The tomato fruitworm (Helicoverpa zea) and tobacco budworm (Heliothis virescens) are similar in appearance, with young caterpillars ranging from cream to yellow and darkening to yellow-green or brown-red as they mature. Older caterpillars have tiny, thorn-like spines and grow up to 1 inch long. Both caterpillars attack and chew on the buds, blossoms and developing tomatoes. They enter the fruit by chewing a hole in the skin and then eat the inside of the tomato.
Variegated cutworms (Peridroma saucia) and black cutworms (Agrotis ipsilon) are among the cutworm species that attack new seedlings and tomato fruits. At night, the cutworm emerges from hiding in the dirt or plant debris and chews the tender stem of the seedling. It may also chew on the fruits, especially if the tomatoes are touching the ground. Cutworms are 1 to 2 inches long and smooth skinned. They curl up when touched.
Non-Insecticide Controls
Hand pick the caterpillars. Large caterpillars, such as the tomato hornworm, are easily hand picked from the tomato plant. Put on gloves if you're squeamish about touching caterpillars. Look at the plant and let your eyes follow the branch down the ragged stubs of the devoured leaves and eventually you'll see the fat green caterpillar amid the stems and leaves. Pluck it from the tomato plant and drop it into a bucket of soapy water.
Make cardboard collars to protect the tomato stems from cutworms. A simple 2 1/2-inch tall and 8-inch long cardboard collar formed into a circle and then pressed 1 inch into the soil surrounding the plant prevents the cutworm from encircling the stem and chewing it off. Alternately, cut off the bottom of a paper or plastic cup and insert the top portion of the cup into the soil to protect the tender stem.
Cultivate the soil after the harvest. By removing dead and dying vegetation and tilling the garden after the harvest, you can destroy many of the larvae and the pupae before winter. Fewer emerging moths in spring means fewer caterpillars to munch on your tomatoes next season.
Less Toxic Insecticides
In the home garden, targeting caterpillars with less toxic insecticides allows beneficial insects, such as bees, to continue to pollinate the other fruits and vegetables. In addition, using less toxic options means you can treat your tomatoes up to the day of harvest. Before mixing and applying any insecticides, put on gloves, safety goggles and a breathing mask to avoid contact with the insecticide. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium, is toxic to many caterpillar species, including hornworms, fruitworms, budworms and loopers. Mix a Bt concentrate at a rate of 1 to 3 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for hornworms and 2 to 4 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for other caterpillars. Spray the tomato's leaves until they are covered with the solution. Repeat weekly or as needed to control caterpillars.
Ready-to-use neem oil products may be used on a seven- to 14-day schedule. Apply the solution in the early morning or late evening to avoid burning the tomato plant. Shake the spray bottle well and spray the tomato plant until the leaves are soaked by the solution.
Spinosaid concentrate is mixed at 4 tablespoons per gallon of water and applied until the tomato plant is soaking wet. It kills infestations of loopers and other caterpillars. It may be reapplied four days apart and up to six times per year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
On their way to a bumper crop and the envy of all who pass, your tomato plants have more than jealous neighbors as admirers. Even the healthiest tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) attract tiny white insects intent stealing their nutritious sap. The bugs' presence is unmistakeable: At the slightest disturbance, they swarm from the leaves in clouds. Fortunately, toxic chemicals aren't required to send them packing.
Meet the Whiteflies
Like the pushiest of relatives, whiteflies make themselves completely at home. They come for dinner, make a mess and stay to raise their families. They resist eviction by chemical insecticide and may not leave until they've drained all the sap the plants have to offer.
Three kinds of whiteflies – greenhouse, sweet potato and bandedwing -- target tomatoes, but greenhouse whiteflies are by far the nastiest. Measuring about 1/16 inch long, they feed in groups and lay eggs on the backs of the leaves. By transmitting the tomato infectious chlorosis virus, greenhouse whiteflies are capable of seriously damaging an entire tomato crop.
Whiteflies also excrete undigested sap as sticky, transparent honeydew. Honeydew attracts sooty mold spores capable of burying the leaves beneath layers of black fungus.
Basic Whitefly Control
Inspect the tomatoes daily and prune lightly infested leaves to remove larvae and eggs. Use clean, sharp stem cutters disinfected between cuts in rubbing alcohol, and dispose of the leaves in sealed plastic bags.
Rinse the adult whiteflies from the plants with a strong spray of hose water that reaches the backs of the leaves. The University of California Integrated Pest Management Program reports weekly use of this syringing technique controls whiteflies at least as well as chemical insecticides.
If rinsing fails, suction adults off with a battery-operated vacuum early in the morning while they're lethargic. Freeze the dust cup overnight before emptying its contents into a sealed plastic bag and placing it in the trash.
Biological Weapons
A host of beneficial bugs, including pirate bugs, lacewings and ladybugs, prey on whiteflies. To lure them to your tomato patch, layer several shallow dishes with pebbles partially submerged in water and place them around the plants. The predators come to drink and remain to eat.
Keep the friendly bugs even happier by mixing some pollen-or nectar-producing herbs such as annual dill (Anethum graveolens) or perennial fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, in with your tomatoes.
Off Them With Oil
A persistent whitefly problem calls for organic, ready-to-use neem oil. Lethal to the whiteflies and eggs when wet, it's harmless to beneficial insects once dry. Water the tomatoes well and spray until until all their surfaces drip with the oil, making sure to coat the backs of the leaves.
Repeat weekly, or at the label's recommended rate, until the plants are whitefly free. Wear protective clothing, waterproof gloves, safety goggles and a respiratory mask, and always heed the label's precautions when working with the oil.
Meet the Whiteflies
Like the pushiest of relatives, whiteflies make themselves completely at home. They come for dinner, make a mess and stay to raise their families. They resist eviction by chemical insecticide and may not leave until they've drained all the sap the plants have to offer.
Three kinds of whiteflies – greenhouse, sweet potato and bandedwing -- target tomatoes, but greenhouse whiteflies are by far the nastiest. Measuring about 1/16 inch long, they feed in groups and lay eggs on the backs of the leaves. By transmitting the tomato infectious chlorosis virus, greenhouse whiteflies are capable of seriously damaging an entire tomato crop.
Whiteflies also excrete undigested sap as sticky, transparent honeydew. Honeydew attracts sooty mold spores capable of burying the leaves beneath layers of black fungus.
Basic Whitefly Control
Inspect the tomatoes daily and prune lightly infested leaves to remove larvae and eggs. Use clean, sharp stem cutters disinfected between cuts in rubbing alcohol, and dispose of the leaves in sealed plastic bags.
Rinse the adult whiteflies from the plants with a strong spray of hose water that reaches the backs of the leaves. The University of California Integrated Pest Management Program reports weekly use of this syringing technique controls whiteflies at least as well as chemical insecticides.
If rinsing fails, suction adults off with a battery-operated vacuum early in the morning while they're lethargic. Freeze the dust cup overnight before emptying its contents into a sealed plastic bag and placing it in the trash.
Biological Weapons
A host of beneficial bugs, including pirate bugs, lacewings and ladybugs, prey on whiteflies. To lure them to your tomato patch, layer several shallow dishes with pebbles partially submerged in water and place them around the plants. The predators come to drink and remain to eat.
Keep the friendly bugs even happier by mixing some pollen-or nectar-producing herbs such as annual dill (Anethum graveolens) or perennial fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, in with your tomatoes.
Off Them With Oil
A persistent whitefly problem calls for organic, ready-to-use neem oil. Lethal to the whiteflies and eggs when wet, it's harmless to beneficial insects once dry. Water the tomatoes well and spray until until all their surfaces drip with the oil, making sure to coat the backs of the leaves.
Repeat weekly, or at the label's recommended rate, until the plants are whitefly free. Wear protective clothing, waterproof gloves, safety goggles and a respiratory mask, and always heed the label's precautions when working with the oil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
Tomato plants are now a staple in the home garden. Tomatoes are high in Vitamin A, Vitamin C and lycopene. Lycopene helps ward off many cancers.
Origin
Tomato plants originally come from South and Central America along the Andes Mountains. Wildlife readily dispersed tomato seeds throughout countries such as Bolivia, Chile and Peru.
Dispersion
Tomato seeds can be dispersed by birds and foraging animals. Animals excrete the undigested seeds miles away from the original plant. Half-eaten fruit was often carried and dropped miles away from the original plant.
Fact
The ovary of a flower grows, ripens and develops one or more seeds. This is how fruit form. Tomatoes are fruits.
History in America
Tomato plants bear a strong resemblance to deadly nightshade. During Colonial Times, they were imported and grown for decoration until considered to be a human food source in the mid 1830s. Birds and foraging animals ate the tomato fruit and dispersed seed throughout North America.
Culture
The dispersed seeds of tomato plants grew well in areas where there was plentiful rainfall, full sun and well-drained soil.
Origin
Tomato plants originally come from South and Central America along the Andes Mountains. Wildlife readily dispersed tomato seeds throughout countries such as Bolivia, Chile and Peru.
Dispersion
Tomato seeds can be dispersed by birds and foraging animals. Animals excrete the undigested seeds miles away from the original plant. Half-eaten fruit was often carried and dropped miles away from the original plant.
Fact
The ovary of a flower grows, ripens and develops one or more seeds. This is how fruit form. Tomatoes are fruits.
History in America
Tomato plants bear a strong resemblance to deadly nightshade. During Colonial Times, they were imported and grown for decoration until considered to be a human food source in the mid 1830s. Birds and foraging animals ate the tomato fruit and dispersed seed throughout North America.
Culture
The dispersed seeds of tomato plants grew well in areas where there was plentiful rainfall, full sun and well-drained soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
Though tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are grown for their fruit, not their foliage, yellowing leaves should cause concern. Usually grown as annuals, tomato plants are susceptible to many diseases. Some harm only leaves, but others threaten the fruit. Causes vary, but symptoms may look and act the same. Proper care, good maintenance and quick intervention can help keep leaves green and tomatoes productive.
Leaf Spot Diseases
Fungal leaf spots often cause yellowing tomato leaves. Septoria leaf spot (Septoria lycopersici) starts with small, tan-centered, dark spots. The scattered spots grow and yellow, starting with the lowest, oldest leaves and working up. Fruits are unaffected. Early blight disease (Alternaria solani), also known as alternaria leaf spot, moves the same way with dark, target-shaped spots encircled in yellow. The yellow part grows until entire leaves drop, leaving fruit overexposed to the sun. These diseases often strike together and quicken once fruit sets. Treat with ready-to-use liquid copper fungicide. Start two weeks before diseases normally affect your garden or as soon as symptoms arise. Spray all surfaces thoroughly, and repeat every seven to 10 days. Wear protective clothing and goggles when you spray.
Bacterial Diseases
Easily mistaken for fungal leaf spots, bacterial spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria) starts with small, greasy lesions -- without tan centers -- encircled by yellow halos that grow together. Bacterial speck (Pseudomonas syringae pv. tomato) looks and acts similarly. Both affect tomato fruit and overwinter in plant debris. Wet foliage hastens the progress of these diseases. Treat with liquid copper fungicide as with leaf spots. Bacterial canker (Clavibacter michiganensis) starts with brown leaf margins lined with yellow and then green leaf centers. It moves up one side of the plant. The yellow leaves stay attached and leaf stems stay green. Plants affected with bacterial canker should be pulled up and destroyed.
Viral Diseases
Tomato plants are affected by many different viral diseases that vary throughout the country. Symptoms include yellowing leaves, ring spots and yellow-green mosaic patterns that mar foliage and fruits. Viruses are spread by piercing and sucking insects, such as aphids, thrips and leafhoppers. While viruses can't be cured, controlling the insects limits the spread to other plants. A blast of water from a hose may dislodge these invaders, and stragglers treated with ready-to-use insecticidal soap. Spray plant surfaces thoroughly because the soap must cover the insects to be effective. Repeat weekly or every other week, until the insects are gone.
Soil-Borne Wilts
Fungal diseases in the soil also cause yellow leaves. Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum lycopersici) affects one side of the plant or leaf, starting first with older, bottom leaves, as leaf spots do. As the plant's vascular system becomes plugged, the leaves yellow, brown and drop. Growth is stunted and fruit doesn't set. Cut stems show brown staining in the vascular pathways near the soil. Verticillium wilts (Verticillium spp.) are similar, but don't stick to one side. The plant's leaves rapidly yellow. If wilt disease is present, no fungicide will help. Avoid planting tomatoes or any related plants in that area for at least four years.
Prevention and Sanitation
Tomato diseases are difficult to treat and eradicate once they take hold. Prevention is an easier route. Plant disease-resistant varieties, and plant tomatoes in a different part of the garden each year. Give tomatoes good air circulation and keep soil moist, but never soggy. Improper watering causes nutritional deficiencies that add to your yellowing leaves. Water in the mornings, so the leaves are dry by night. Remove diseased plants, leaves and plant parts from the garden as soon as symptoms hit. Dispose of the leaves -- don't compost them -- and always clean all tomato debris from the garden at year's end. Strong, healthy tomatoes resist diseases and insect pests, leaving attractive foliage and fruit for your table.
Leaf Spot Diseases
Fungal leaf spots often cause yellowing tomato leaves. Septoria leaf spot (Septoria lycopersici) starts with small, tan-centered, dark spots. The scattered spots grow and yellow, starting with the lowest, oldest leaves and working up. Fruits are unaffected. Early blight disease (Alternaria solani), also known as alternaria leaf spot, moves the same way with dark, target-shaped spots encircled in yellow. The yellow part grows until entire leaves drop, leaving fruit overexposed to the sun. These diseases often strike together and quicken once fruit sets. Treat with ready-to-use liquid copper fungicide. Start two weeks before diseases normally affect your garden or as soon as symptoms arise. Spray all surfaces thoroughly, and repeat every seven to 10 days. Wear protective clothing and goggles when you spray.
Bacterial Diseases
Easily mistaken for fungal leaf spots, bacterial spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria) starts with small, greasy lesions -- without tan centers -- encircled by yellow halos that grow together. Bacterial speck (Pseudomonas syringae pv. tomato) looks and acts similarly. Both affect tomato fruit and overwinter in plant debris. Wet foliage hastens the progress of these diseases. Treat with liquid copper fungicide as with leaf spots. Bacterial canker (Clavibacter michiganensis) starts with brown leaf margins lined with yellow and then green leaf centers. It moves up one side of the plant. The yellow leaves stay attached and leaf stems stay green. Plants affected with bacterial canker should be pulled up and destroyed.
Viral Diseases
Tomato plants are affected by many different viral diseases that vary throughout the country. Symptoms include yellowing leaves, ring spots and yellow-green mosaic patterns that mar foliage and fruits. Viruses are spread by piercing and sucking insects, such as aphids, thrips and leafhoppers. While viruses can't be cured, controlling the insects limits the spread to other plants. A blast of water from a hose may dislodge these invaders, and stragglers treated with ready-to-use insecticidal soap. Spray plant surfaces thoroughly because the soap must cover the insects to be effective. Repeat weekly or every other week, until the insects are gone.
Soil-Borne Wilts
Fungal diseases in the soil also cause yellow leaves. Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum lycopersici) affects one side of the plant or leaf, starting first with older, bottom leaves, as leaf spots do. As the plant's vascular system becomes plugged, the leaves yellow, brown and drop. Growth is stunted and fruit doesn't set. Cut stems show brown staining in the vascular pathways near the soil. Verticillium wilts (Verticillium spp.) are similar, but don't stick to one side. The plant's leaves rapidly yellow. If wilt disease is present, no fungicide will help. Avoid planting tomatoes or any related plants in that area for at least four years.
Prevention and Sanitation
Tomato diseases are difficult to treat and eradicate once they take hold. Prevention is an easier route. Plant disease-resistant varieties, and plant tomatoes in a different part of the garden each year. Give tomatoes good air circulation and keep soil moist, but never soggy. Improper watering causes nutritional deficiencies that add to your yellowing leaves. Water in the mornings, so the leaves are dry by night. Remove diseased plants, leaves and plant parts from the garden as soon as symptoms hit. Dispose of the leaves -- don't compost them -- and always clean all tomato debris from the garden at year's end. Strong, healthy tomatoes resist diseases and insect pests, leaving attractive foliage and fruit for your table.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
Tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are tender plants that can't withstand a heavy frost, but slightly frosted plants may recover. Usually grown as annual plants, tomatoes can grow year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. At 40 degrees Fahrenheit and lower temperatures, tomato plants' leaves, stems and fruits suffer damage, but you can help save the plants by protecting them from further frosts.
Saving Young Plants
Young tomato plants are especially vulnerable to cold weather. Signs of frost damage include soft and discolored stems and leaves, and sunken leaf spots that are tan to brown. The spots usually appear between leaf veins. If the damage isn't extensive -- affecting only leaves' outer edges for example, then the plants probably will recover. Move the plants to a frost-free area if they're in containers, and cover plants in the ground with sheets of fabric if more frosts threaten. If the stems below the lowest leaves are discolored and soft, then little hope exists for the plants. Discard them and immediately sow or buy new tomato plants for a crop that year.
Rescuing Mature Plants
You may be able to save mature tomato plants that suffered a late frost. The average annual last frost date is only a rough guide to when to expect the late frost, and sometimes late spring or early summer frosts catch gardeners by surprise. If your mature tomato plants have frost damage, inspect them carefully. Those that collapsed completely can't be saved, and you may have to rely on kind neighbors for homegrown tomato fruits that year. If, however, your mature plants are still standing, tidy them by removing their frost-damaged leaves. Pinch or prune them at the nearest point where healthy tissue begins. Wipe the blades of the pruning shears in rubbing alcohol before and after pruning to help prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
Protecting Them from Frosts
If your tomato plants survived a light frost, then keeping an eye on the weather forecast and protecting them the next time frost is expected should be worth the effort. Water the tomato plants' soil the evening before a frost, and cover the plants with newspapers, old bedsheets, fabric tarps, floating rows covers or a similar material before the sun sets. Spread the material over the tomato plants' stakes, and don't allow the material to touch the plants because touching reduces the level of frost protection. An option to protect young tomato plants is to wash and cut the tops off plastic milk containers and place the containers over the plants before the night's frost. Remove the containers the following morning when the frost has thawed; doing so will prevent the young plants from heating in the sun's rays.
Harvesting Tomatoes After a Frost
The growing season for tomato plants is a few short months in some areas of the United States, but you can harvest tomato fruits up to and just after the first fall frost. Tomato plants produce best when daytime temperatures are 70 to 75 F during the day and 65 to 68 F at night. At temperatures below 60 F, production slows or stops, and the plants don't grow or produce when temperatures are cold enough to develop frosts. After the first fall frost, harvest all the fruits. Cut off all the fruits' frost-damaged parts and eat the undamaged portions fresh, or save undamaged fruits to eat as green tomatoes or to allow to ripen. Green tomatoes will ripen when spread in a single layer in a dark, airy location where the temperature doesn't fall below 55 F. Fruits from a frosted tomato plant shouldn't be canned because they may be unsafe.
Saving Young Plants
Young tomato plants are especially vulnerable to cold weather. Signs of frost damage include soft and discolored stems and leaves, and sunken leaf spots that are tan to brown. The spots usually appear between leaf veins. If the damage isn't extensive -- affecting only leaves' outer edges for example, then the plants probably will recover. Move the plants to a frost-free area if they're in containers, and cover plants in the ground with sheets of fabric if more frosts threaten. If the stems below the lowest leaves are discolored and soft, then little hope exists for the plants. Discard them and immediately sow or buy new tomato plants for a crop that year.
Rescuing Mature Plants
You may be able to save mature tomato plants that suffered a late frost. The average annual last frost date is only a rough guide to when to expect the late frost, and sometimes late spring or early summer frosts catch gardeners by surprise. If your mature tomato plants have frost damage, inspect them carefully. Those that collapsed completely can't be saved, and you may have to rely on kind neighbors for homegrown tomato fruits that year. If, however, your mature plants are still standing, tidy them by removing their frost-damaged leaves. Pinch or prune them at the nearest point where healthy tissue begins. Wipe the blades of the pruning shears in rubbing alcohol before and after pruning to help prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
Protecting Them from Frosts
If your tomato plants survived a light frost, then keeping an eye on the weather forecast and protecting them the next time frost is expected should be worth the effort. Water the tomato plants' soil the evening before a frost, and cover the plants with newspapers, old bedsheets, fabric tarps, floating rows covers or a similar material before the sun sets. Spread the material over the tomato plants' stakes, and don't allow the material to touch the plants because touching reduces the level of frost protection. An option to protect young tomato plants is to wash and cut the tops off plastic milk containers and place the containers over the plants before the night's frost. Remove the containers the following morning when the frost has thawed; doing so will prevent the young plants from heating in the sun's rays.
Harvesting Tomatoes After a Frost
The growing season for tomato plants is a few short months in some areas of the United States, but you can harvest tomato fruits up to and just after the first fall frost. Tomato plants produce best when daytime temperatures are 70 to 75 F during the day and 65 to 68 F at night. At temperatures below 60 F, production slows or stops, and the plants don't grow or produce when temperatures are cold enough to develop frosts. After the first fall frost, harvest all the fruits. Cut off all the fruits' frost-damaged parts and eat the undamaged portions fresh, or save undamaged fruits to eat as green tomatoes or to allow to ripen. Green tomatoes will ripen when spread in a single layer in a dark, airy location where the temperature doesn't fall below 55 F. Fruits from a frosted tomato plant shouldn't be canned because they may be unsafe.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
You can plant more tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum) in a garden when you support them with stakes or wire cages than if you let them sprawl on the ground. Because tomatoes require a soil temperature of at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit to plant from seed, most gardeners transplant nursery seedlings. How far apart you space plants also depends on the type of tomato, because some varieties need more space.
Spacing and Tomato Varieties
Determinate tomato varieties eventually form a cluster of flowers at their tip and stop growing taller. They are easier to grow and control and their tomatoes ripen earlier. Indeterminate tomatoes, including nearly all older and heirloom varieties, grow larger vines with a larger, more flavorful crop of late-maturing tomatoes. Indeterminate cultivars need to be planted farther apart than determinate or dwarf cultivars. Most people treat tomatoes as annuals but they will technically grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Spacing Staked Tomatoes
If you train your tomatoes to grow on stakes you'll get larger tomatoes and they'll ripen earlier, but you'll get fewer of them and they're more likely to suffer from sun scald. Plant staked tomatoes 2 feet apart in rows spaced 3 to 4 feet apart. Dwarf tomatoes will only need 12 inches between plants. To give yourself enough room to harvest tomatoes, space vigorous indeterminate cultivars 4 feet apart and space rows 5 to 6 feet apart.
Spacing Caged Tomatoes
Plant caged tomatoes 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart in rows separated by 4 to 5 feet. Determinate tomatoes are best suited to cages. Prune the plants so that they will have from three to five stems. Especially vigorous indeterminate tomatoes will require larger cages, fewer stems in each cage and more space between plants and rows.
Spacing Tomatoes in Intensive Gardens
Plants in intensive gardens are spaced so their centers are an equal distance from one another. Tomatoes are especially suited to intensive gardening because they can be trained to grow vertically on stakes, cages or trellises. Space tomatoes 12 to 18 inches apart in an intensive garden.
Spacing and Tomato Varieties
Determinate tomato varieties eventually form a cluster of flowers at their tip and stop growing taller. They are easier to grow and control and their tomatoes ripen earlier. Indeterminate tomatoes, including nearly all older and heirloom varieties, grow larger vines with a larger, more flavorful crop of late-maturing tomatoes. Indeterminate cultivars need to be planted farther apart than determinate or dwarf cultivars. Most people treat tomatoes as annuals but they will technically grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Spacing Staked Tomatoes
If you train your tomatoes to grow on stakes you'll get larger tomatoes and they'll ripen earlier, but you'll get fewer of them and they're more likely to suffer from sun scald. Plant staked tomatoes 2 feet apart in rows spaced 3 to 4 feet apart. Dwarf tomatoes will only need 12 inches between plants. To give yourself enough room to harvest tomatoes, space vigorous indeterminate cultivars 4 feet apart and space rows 5 to 6 feet apart.
Spacing Caged Tomatoes
Plant caged tomatoes 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart in rows separated by 4 to 5 feet. Determinate tomatoes are best suited to cages. Prune the plants so that they will have from three to five stems. Especially vigorous indeterminate tomatoes will require larger cages, fewer stems in each cage and more space between plants and rows.
Spacing Tomatoes in Intensive Gardens
Plants in intensive gardens are spaced so their centers are an equal distance from one another. Tomatoes are especially suited to intensive gardening because they can be trained to grow vertically on stakes, cages or trellises. Space tomatoes 12 to 18 inches apart in an intensive garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月21日
Most corn plants yield one to two ears of corn, depending on the cultivar. Corn is an annual plant, so once the ears have been harvested, it will not produce more corn.
Early Varieties of Sweet Corn
Early maturing sweet corn varieties will on produce one ear of corn per plant.
Early-maturing sweet corn varieties start producing within 60 to 80 days after planting. These plants will produce only one ear of corn per plant. The quality of the ear will depend on various conditions, including temperature during pollination and water availability during growth.
Later Maturing Sweet Corn
LAter maturing varieties will produce two ears.
Later-maturing varieties of sweet corn will produce two ears, with the second ear being of inferior size and quality to the first. Mid-season and late-season varieties of sweet corn mature within 79 to 95 days after planting.
Field Corn Varieties
Field corn produces one to two ears per plant.
Field corn, which is produced for such items as corn oil and silage, produces one to two ears of corn per plant. Ear size is larger than that of sweet corn, but it is of poor quality. Some varieties of field corn can produce six to 10 small ears of corn per plant.
Early Varieties of Sweet Corn
Early maturing sweet corn varieties will on produce one ear of corn per plant.
Early-maturing sweet corn varieties start producing within 60 to 80 days after planting. These plants will produce only one ear of corn per plant. The quality of the ear will depend on various conditions, including temperature during pollination and water availability during growth.
Later Maturing Sweet Corn
LAter maturing varieties will produce two ears.
Later-maturing varieties of sweet corn will produce two ears, with the second ear being of inferior size and quality to the first. Mid-season and late-season varieties of sweet corn mature within 79 to 95 days after planting.
Field Corn Varieties
Field corn produces one to two ears per plant.
Field corn, which is produced for such items as corn oil and silage, produces one to two ears of corn per plant. Ear size is larger than that of sweet corn, but it is of poor quality. Some varieties of field corn can produce six to 10 small ears of corn per plant.
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