文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月15日
Because seeds from grapevines (Vitis spp.) don't produce plants like the mother plants, the seeds usually are sown only by plant breeders in search of new grape varieties. You, too, can create your own cultivar in that way, though it may be inferior to its mother plant. Because the hardiness of grapevines ranges from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10, depending on the variety, select seeds from a type that flourishes in your climate. Some seedlings may produce fruits within two years while others could require up to seven years of growth before they begin producing.
Acquire Seeds
Harvest grape seeds from fruits that are fully ripe by slicing them in half lengthwise. Extract the seeds with the tip of a clean knife or your fingernails, being careful not to harm the seeds in the process. After dropping the seeds into a container of water, allow them to soak for 24 hours, skimming off and discarding all of them that don't sink.
Prepare Seeds
Drain the remaining seeds the following day, and place them inside a small container accompanied by a little damp peat moss. One tablespoon of peat moss should be adequate for up to 50 seeds. After capping the container, leave it in a 35- to 40-degrees Fahrenheit refrigerator for three months. The exposure to cold is called the stratification period.
Sow Seeds
At the end of that time period, open the container and plant the seeds at a depth about three times their length in a flat of damp and sterile seed-starting mix. Ensure the flat has bottom drainage holes, and space the seeds 1 1/2 inches apart from each other. Place the flat under a grow light that runs for 16 hours per day because grape seeds germinate best under long-day conditions, and keep the seed-starting mix damp. If the temperature remains at about 70 F during the day, preferably dropping to 60 F at night, some seeds may germinate, or sprout, within two weeks, though others may take two months or longer to sprout.
Hasten Germination
Reportedly, placing grape seeds in running water eliminates their stratification period requirement because the water washes away their germination inhibitors. Try that technique by inserting damp grape seeds in a small, muslin bag immediately after you harvest the seeds, and place that bag in running water, such as in a "babbling" brook. Tying the bag to a stake may be necessary to prevent the bag from being swept away.
Under those conditions, the seeds can begin to make roots in eight days, after which they should be planted in the same way you would sow stratified seeds that have no roots. Don't leave the seeds in the water longer than 12 days, or their roots will begin to turn brown.
Nourish Seedlings
When the little grapevine seedlings have two sets of leaves, transplant each plant into its own 4-inch-diameter pot filled with a mixture that is 8 parts potting soil, 1 part pumice and 1 part sand. If you like, you can feed them with a plant food recommended for seedlings -- such as 2-3-1-- at one-half the fertilizer package's recommended strength. For the first month, mix 1 tablespoon of 2-3-1 fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. Afterward, raise the fertilizer amount to 2 tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. Transplant each seedling into its own 1-gallon pot about six weeks after each seedling was moved into the 4-inch-diameter pots.
The young grapevines should be ready to go outdoors when each plant has added six true leaves to its original two leaves, which are seed leaves. Accustom the vines to outdoor conditions by setting their pots in a shady position for a few hours every day at first and then taking them back indoors for the rest of each day. Gradually shift them into more sunlight.
Plant Seedlings
After your location's last average spring frost date, select a position for the grapevines, ensuring the site has full-sun exposure and moderately rich, well-drained soil and is beside an arbor, trellis or fence. Plant the seedlings about 8 to 10 feet apart, making each planting hole wider and deeper than its respective vine's root ball and situating the vines at the same soil depth at which they grew in their pots. Fill the remainder of the holes with the soil you removed to make the holes; ensure the soil around the plants is level with the surrounding ground. Cut each grapevine back to its lowest two leaf buds. Water the plants' soil well, and ensure that they receive at least 1 inch of water per week during their first year.
Work a small amount of balanced fertilizer – about one-fourth of the regular rate – into the soil around each vine. For example, use 5-5-5 organic fertilizer, applying about 3/16 cup every other month from spring through autumn. Increase the fertilizer amount by one-fourth each spring until the grapevines receive the fertilizer package's full recommended amount per feeding – such as 3/4 cup of 5-5-5 organic fertilizer -- in their fourth year.
Acquire Seeds
Harvest grape seeds from fruits that are fully ripe by slicing them in half lengthwise. Extract the seeds with the tip of a clean knife or your fingernails, being careful not to harm the seeds in the process. After dropping the seeds into a container of water, allow them to soak for 24 hours, skimming off and discarding all of them that don't sink.
Prepare Seeds
Drain the remaining seeds the following day, and place them inside a small container accompanied by a little damp peat moss. One tablespoon of peat moss should be adequate for up to 50 seeds. After capping the container, leave it in a 35- to 40-degrees Fahrenheit refrigerator for three months. The exposure to cold is called the stratification period.
Sow Seeds
At the end of that time period, open the container and plant the seeds at a depth about three times their length in a flat of damp and sterile seed-starting mix. Ensure the flat has bottom drainage holes, and space the seeds 1 1/2 inches apart from each other. Place the flat under a grow light that runs for 16 hours per day because grape seeds germinate best under long-day conditions, and keep the seed-starting mix damp. If the temperature remains at about 70 F during the day, preferably dropping to 60 F at night, some seeds may germinate, or sprout, within two weeks, though others may take two months or longer to sprout.
Hasten Germination
Reportedly, placing grape seeds in running water eliminates their stratification period requirement because the water washes away their germination inhibitors. Try that technique by inserting damp grape seeds in a small, muslin bag immediately after you harvest the seeds, and place that bag in running water, such as in a "babbling" brook. Tying the bag to a stake may be necessary to prevent the bag from being swept away.
Under those conditions, the seeds can begin to make roots in eight days, after which they should be planted in the same way you would sow stratified seeds that have no roots. Don't leave the seeds in the water longer than 12 days, or their roots will begin to turn brown.
Nourish Seedlings
When the little grapevine seedlings have two sets of leaves, transplant each plant into its own 4-inch-diameter pot filled with a mixture that is 8 parts potting soil, 1 part pumice and 1 part sand. If you like, you can feed them with a plant food recommended for seedlings -- such as 2-3-1-- at one-half the fertilizer package's recommended strength. For the first month, mix 1 tablespoon of 2-3-1 fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. Afterward, raise the fertilizer amount to 2 tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. Transplant each seedling into its own 1-gallon pot about six weeks after each seedling was moved into the 4-inch-diameter pots.
The young grapevines should be ready to go outdoors when each plant has added six true leaves to its original two leaves, which are seed leaves. Accustom the vines to outdoor conditions by setting their pots in a shady position for a few hours every day at first and then taking them back indoors for the rest of each day. Gradually shift them into more sunlight.
Plant Seedlings
After your location's last average spring frost date, select a position for the grapevines, ensuring the site has full-sun exposure and moderately rich, well-drained soil and is beside an arbor, trellis or fence. Plant the seedlings about 8 to 10 feet apart, making each planting hole wider and deeper than its respective vine's root ball and situating the vines at the same soil depth at which they grew in their pots. Fill the remainder of the holes with the soil you removed to make the holes; ensure the soil around the plants is level with the surrounding ground. Cut each grapevine back to its lowest two leaf buds. Water the plants' soil well, and ensure that they receive at least 1 inch of water per week during their first year.
Work a small amount of balanced fertilizer – about one-fourth of the regular rate – into the soil around each vine. For example, use 5-5-5 organic fertilizer, applying about 3/16 cup every other month from spring through autumn. Increase the fertilizer amount by one-fourth each spring until the grapevines receive the fertilizer package's full recommended amount per feeding – such as 3/4 cup of 5-5-5 organic fertilizer -- in their fourth year.
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Jamisonlee
2017年11月14日
I have a lot of plants in my house (pothos) and to keep them healthy I add sugar to their water. ️
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求助
Lili123
2017年11月14日
Can anybody help me with the Names of these two plants?
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菜菜叫Evelynn：Alocasia
菜菜叫Evelynn：can you understand？
sunnyzou：any other pic？
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月13日
Warm-season crops such as tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) can be a bit finicky when it comes to temperature. While tomatoes are short-lived perennials in tropical climates, they are grown as annual plants throughout the U.S. The late spring snows and early autumn frosts often experienced in Missouri can leave many gardeners gambling on the best dates to start seeds and set out transplants. While there are no guarantees when it comes to weather, following a few standard guidelines can take a bit of the guesswork out of tomato gardening.
Check Up on Climate Data
A long history of record-keeping has provided farmers and gardeners alike with data on average frost dates and precipitation. The Missouri Climate Center at the University of Missouri-Columbia divides the state up based on latitudinal variation and elevation. On average, the last frost of spring for northern Missouri is April 20 and for central locations is April 10. Areas with higher elevations, such as the Ozark Plateau, tend to be cooler even though they are in the south, so tax day, April 15, is a good guideline. With these regional variations aside, most of Missouri has an average of 180 frost-free days in which to grow tomatoes. Choosing the right varieties, as well as a little pre-planning, will reap the biggest rewards.
Sow Seeds Indoors
Tomatoes are very sensitive to cold and will show damage at any temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Since most varieties of tomatoes will produce fruit until the first frost, the sooner you can move plants into the garden, the more tomatoes you'll harvest.
For gardeners who like to sow their own seeds, start inside mid-March in a sunny window. Soil needs to be warm, at least 62 degrees F, and seeds will sprout within two weeks. Seedlings will be transplant-ready by the last week in April, but still a bit tender. Rather than put them out directly, try acclimating them over a period of a few days by putting them outside for a few hours and bringing them back in.
Transplanting Seedlings in the Garden
If you'd rather purchase seedlings from a garden center than wait for seeds, don't be tricked by size. The ideal height for a tomato seedling to transplant is around 8 inches, with a sturdy stem. Many places will sell much larger plants -- often at a higher cost -- but tomatoes of this size do not tend to transplant well and any extra growth will be lost as it adjusts to its new environment.
Seedlings bought from a garden center may not have been acclimated to Missouri's climate if they are fresh off a truck from a greenhouse, so consider putting them out for a few hours each day for several days before planting them in the ground the first week of May.
Choose the Right Variety
As America's most popular garden crop, tomatoes come in a wide variety of sizes, colors and cultivars. Heirloom varieties, those that have been cultivated for more than 50 years, have an old-fashioned taste, but typically take longer to mature -- often needing more than 80 days to flower, fruit and ripen.
Newer, hybrid varieties have been developed over the years to be both more resistant to diseases that cause blight and wilt as well as faster to ripen. The University of Missouri Extension recommends mid-sized hybrid cultivars such as "Celebrity" and "Better Boy," which can ripen within 75 days, and the smaller "Early Girl" variety, which ripens in less than 60 days. Cherry tomatoes and smaller varieties, such as "Supersweet 100s" take around 65 days.
Check Up on Climate Data
A long history of record-keeping has provided farmers and gardeners alike with data on average frost dates and precipitation. The Missouri Climate Center at the University of Missouri-Columbia divides the state up based on latitudinal variation and elevation. On average, the last frost of spring for northern Missouri is April 20 and for central locations is April 10. Areas with higher elevations, such as the Ozark Plateau, tend to be cooler even though they are in the south, so tax day, April 15, is a good guideline. With these regional variations aside, most of Missouri has an average of 180 frost-free days in which to grow tomatoes. Choosing the right varieties, as well as a little pre-planning, will reap the biggest rewards.
Sow Seeds Indoors
Tomatoes are very sensitive to cold and will show damage at any temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Since most varieties of tomatoes will produce fruit until the first frost, the sooner you can move plants into the garden, the more tomatoes you'll harvest.
For gardeners who like to sow their own seeds, start inside mid-March in a sunny window. Soil needs to be warm, at least 62 degrees F, and seeds will sprout within two weeks. Seedlings will be transplant-ready by the last week in April, but still a bit tender. Rather than put them out directly, try acclimating them over a period of a few days by putting them outside for a few hours and bringing them back in.
Transplanting Seedlings in the Garden
If you'd rather purchase seedlings from a garden center than wait for seeds, don't be tricked by size. The ideal height for a tomato seedling to transplant is around 8 inches, with a sturdy stem. Many places will sell much larger plants -- often at a higher cost -- but tomatoes of this size do not tend to transplant well and any extra growth will be lost as it adjusts to its new environment.
Seedlings bought from a garden center may not have been acclimated to Missouri's climate if they are fresh off a truck from a greenhouse, so consider putting them out for a few hours each day for several days before planting them in the ground the first week of May.
Choose the Right Variety
As America's most popular garden crop, tomatoes come in a wide variety of sizes, colors and cultivars. Heirloom varieties, those that have been cultivated for more than 50 years, have an old-fashioned taste, but typically take longer to mature -- often needing more than 80 days to flower, fruit and ripen.
Newer, hybrid varieties have been developed over the years to be both more resistant to diseases that cause blight and wilt as well as faster to ripen. The University of Missouri Extension recommends mid-sized hybrid cultivars such as "Celebrity" and "Better Boy," which can ripen within 75 days, and the smaller "Early Girl" variety, which ripens in less than 60 days. Cherry tomatoes and smaller varieties, such as "Supersweet 100s" take around 65 days.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月13日
Epsom salt is made of magnesium and sulfur. Magnesium promotes seed germination and chlorophyll production, and it also facilitates the plants' absorption of phosphorous and nitrogen. Besides, Epsom salt offers an advantage over synthetic fertilizers: Despite its name, it's not a salt, and it doesn't leave residue behind in the soil that creates a salt buildup or harm plants. Feed your tomatoes Epsom salt once every two weeks for a plant larger and more fruitful than last season.
Step 1
Measure your tomato plant to calculate how many tablespoons of Epsom salt you'll need. Use 1 tbsp. for every foot of plant. A 6-inch-tall tomato plant, for example, takes ½ tbsp. of Epsom salt.
Step 2
Sprinkle the correct amount of Epsom salt around the base of your tomato plant.
Step 3
Mix the Epsom salt crystals with the soil, working them into the ground carefully to avoid damaging the roots. Use your fingers or a trowel.
Step 4
Irrigate your tomato plant to dissolve the crystals, releasing the nutrients into the soil.
Step 1
Measure your tomato plant to calculate how many tablespoons of Epsom salt you'll need. Use 1 tbsp. for every foot of plant. A 6-inch-tall tomato plant, for example, takes ½ tbsp. of Epsom salt.
Step 2
Sprinkle the correct amount of Epsom salt around the base of your tomato plant.
Step 3
Mix the Epsom salt crystals with the soil, working them into the ground carefully to avoid damaging the roots. Use your fingers or a trowel.
Step 4
Irrigate your tomato plant to dissolve the crystals, releasing the nutrients into the soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
Blueberry plants are simple fruits to for almost anyone to grow. They grow in a variety of regions and will regrow year after year. A single blueberry plant can produce up to eight bushels of blueberries in a single growing season. Blueberries grow best in areas with acidic soil, so if your region has an abundance of acidity, you are in an even more ideal position to grow blueberries at home.
Step 1
Wait until the threat of frost subsides in the early spring to plant blueberry bushes.
Step 2
Plan blueberry bush plantings in a location that receives at least four to five hours of sunlight per day.
Step 3
Dig a space measuring 4 feet wide by 2 feet deep in which to grow each blueberry plant. Space the blueberry plants 6 feet apart since full grown plants will bush out quite a bit.
Step 4
Pour a thick layer of peat moss into the bottom of the hole and then insert the blueberry bush on top of it. Use your hands to pack the soil around the base of the blueberry plant to completely cover the roots.
Step 5
Trim away the lower branches of the blueberry plant to prevent them touching the ground.
Step 6
Apply fertilizer to the blueberry plant after it has been planted for several months. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer and spread it in a 12-inch diameter around the base of the blueberry plant.
Step 7
Water the blueberry plants at least twice per week and more during periods of drought.
Step 1
Wait until the threat of frost subsides in the early spring to plant blueberry bushes.
Step 2
Plan blueberry bush plantings in a location that receives at least four to five hours of sunlight per day.
Step 3
Dig a space measuring 4 feet wide by 2 feet deep in which to grow each blueberry plant. Space the blueberry plants 6 feet apart since full grown plants will bush out quite a bit.
Step 4
Pour a thick layer of peat moss into the bottom of the hole and then insert the blueberry bush on top of it. Use your hands to pack the soil around the base of the blueberry plant to completely cover the roots.
Step 5
Trim away the lower branches of the blueberry plant to prevent them touching the ground.
Step 6
Apply fertilizer to the blueberry plant after it has been planted for several months. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer and spread it in a 12-inch diameter around the base of the blueberry plant.
Step 7
Water the blueberry plants at least twice per week and more during periods of drought.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月10日
Strawberries are a favorite summer fruit for many people. Growing strawberries in a home garden takes some effort, but after two or three years, well-maintained strawberry plants can produce a large harvest. Plenty of sun is one requirement for healthy strawberry plants.
Planting
hands planting strawberry
credit: luna4/iStock/Getty Images
A woman planting strawberries on a cloudy day
Plant strawberries on a cool day with plenty of cloud cover. Excessive sun exposure or heat will damage new plants and stunt their growth. Strawberries are best planted in early spring. Choose a bed with full-sun exposure.
Growing Season
Strawberry bush in the garden
credit: voltan1/iStock/Getty Images
Strawberries growing in a garden
During the growing season, strawberries need full sun. At least six hours of full sun a day are required for healthy growth. Better fruit and stronger plants result from 10 hours of sun daily.
Container Planting
strawberries plants
credit: sanddebeautheil/iStock/Getty Images
Moving a strawberry plant from a container into a wooden box
Strawberries also grow well in containers. If you grow strawberries in containers, set your plants outdoors for at least six hours of full sun. If weather or climate prevents this, use a grow lamp to give your strawberries six to 10 hours of light a day.
Planting
hands planting strawberry
credit: luna4/iStock/Getty Images
A woman planting strawberries on a cloudy day
Plant strawberries on a cool day with plenty of cloud cover. Excessive sun exposure or heat will damage new plants and stunt their growth. Strawberries are best planted in early spring. Choose a bed with full-sun exposure.
Growing Season
Strawberry bush in the garden
credit: voltan1/iStock/Getty Images
Strawberries growing in a garden
During the growing season, strawberries need full sun. At least six hours of full sun a day are required for healthy growth. Better fruit and stronger plants result from 10 hours of sun daily.
Container Planting
strawberries plants
credit: sanddebeautheil/iStock/Getty Images
Moving a strawberry plant from a container into a wooden box
Strawberries also grow well in containers. If you grow strawberries in containers, set your plants outdoors for at least six hours of full sun. If weather or climate prevents this, use a grow lamp to give your strawberries six to 10 hours of light a day.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月10日
Strawberries, unlike many other fruits, grow on plants close along the ground, and put out their own runners for propagation. In Arkansas, strawberry plantings are split into two seasons.
Fall Planting
Many commercial growers plant their strawberries in the fall, to allow the plants to take root and establish over the winter for early spring blooming. When planting in fall, it's important to cover the strawberries with organic or plastic mulch to protect them through the winter.
Spring Planting
Most home gardeners choose to plant strawberries in the spring instead, for a more natural growing season. Spring plantings in Arkansas take place mid-April, when the ground has thawed to 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and is welcoming to young strawberry plants.
Location and Planting
Strawberries require plots that receive full sunshine all day, every day, to take advantage of the lush Arkansas warmth. The plants cannot tolerate crowding or wet feet, so in swampy areas of Arkansas, it's important to raise the beds or mix natural soil with plenty of quick-draining soil and compost.
Fall Planting
Many commercial growers plant their strawberries in the fall, to allow the plants to take root and establish over the winter for early spring blooming. When planting in fall, it's important to cover the strawberries with organic or plastic mulch to protect them through the winter.
Spring Planting
Most home gardeners choose to plant strawberries in the spring instead, for a more natural growing season. Spring plantings in Arkansas take place mid-April, when the ground has thawed to 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and is welcoming to young strawberry plants.
Location and Planting
Strawberries require plots that receive full sunshine all day, every day, to take advantage of the lush Arkansas warmth. The plants cannot tolerate crowding or wet feet, so in swampy areas of Arkansas, it's important to raise the beds or mix natural soil with plenty of quick-draining soil and compost.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月10日
Pests are attracted to garden strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa) as much as people are, but companion plants help keep pests at bay. Strawberries grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8 and as annuals in warmer zones. Companion plants for strawberries deter and distract pests, and host beneficial insects, but they don't compete with strawberries for light or nutrients. Space strawberries and their companions according to their final growth dimensions.
Herb Choices
Strawberries thrive in gardens with annual and perennial herb companions. Borage (Borago officinalis) helps strawberries resist insects and diseases, and common thyme (Thymus vulgaris) deters worms, according to a Michigan State University Extension in Kalamazoo County article. Borage is an annual herb that grows 12 to 36 inches tall and 9 to 18 inches wide; it bears bright-blue, star-shaped flowers in summer. Common thyme, which is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, grows 6 to 12 inches tall and wide, and bears tiny, lilac flowers from late spring through early summer. Another herb companion for strawberries is oregano (Origanum vulgare). Hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9, oregano varieties range from low, spreading mats to upright, bushes. They bear pink, purple or white flowers.
Vegetable Selections
In the vegetable patch, strawberries' companion plants include onion (Allium cepa), lettuce (Lactuca sativa) and spinach (Spinacia oleracea). Growing 12 to 18 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide, onion is grown for its flavorful, aromatic bulbs and leaves; it is harvested as an annual crop. Lettuce and spinach grow 6 to 12 inches tall and wide; they are annual plants. Lettuce varieties include romaine, iceberg, loose leaf and butterhead. A cool-weather vegetable, spinach is an upright plant with leaves rich in iron, phosphorus and vitamins A, B and C. Grow strawberries and vegetable companion plants in alternate rows for their maximum benefit.
Annual Flowering Varieties
Annual flowering plants attract beneficial insects to strawberries they are near. Nasturtium (Tropaeolum spp.) grows 1 to 10 feet tall and 1 to 3 feet wide, depending on the species and cultivar, and bears cream, yellow, orange or red flowers with a spicy fragrance in spring through fall. Marigold (Calendula officinalis), growing 1 to 2 feet tall and wide, bears chrysanthemum-resembling, deep-orange to yellow, early summer flowers that bloom through fall in cool climates. Both of these annuals grow readily from seeds sown directly in the ground just before the average final frost date, and they reseed in favorable conditions.
Perennial Flowering Options
Strawberries are productive ground-cover plants in garden borders with perennial companions. Pincushion flower "Butterfly Blue" (Scabiosa "Butterfly Blue") and speedwell "Foxy Lady" (Veronica "Foxy Lady") thrive in the same full-sun sites and moist, well-drained soil in which strawberries do well. Hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, "Butterfly Blue" grows 12 to 18 inches tall and wide. It bears 2-inch, lavender-blue, pincushionlike flowers spring through fall and into winter in mild climates. "Foxy Lady," which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8, grows 12 to 18 inches tall and 9 to 12 inches wide. It produces 12- to 15-inch spikes of fuschia-pink and white flowers in summer.
Herb Choices
Strawberries thrive in gardens with annual and perennial herb companions. Borage (Borago officinalis) helps strawberries resist insects and diseases, and common thyme (Thymus vulgaris) deters worms, according to a Michigan State University Extension in Kalamazoo County article. Borage is an annual herb that grows 12 to 36 inches tall and 9 to 18 inches wide; it bears bright-blue, star-shaped flowers in summer. Common thyme, which is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, grows 6 to 12 inches tall and wide, and bears tiny, lilac flowers from late spring through early summer. Another herb companion for strawberries is oregano (Origanum vulgare). Hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9, oregano varieties range from low, spreading mats to upright, bushes. They bear pink, purple or white flowers.
Vegetable Selections
In the vegetable patch, strawberries' companion plants include onion (Allium cepa), lettuce (Lactuca sativa) and spinach (Spinacia oleracea). Growing 12 to 18 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide, onion is grown for its flavorful, aromatic bulbs and leaves; it is harvested as an annual crop. Lettuce and spinach grow 6 to 12 inches tall and wide; they are annual plants. Lettuce varieties include romaine, iceberg, loose leaf and butterhead. A cool-weather vegetable, spinach is an upright plant with leaves rich in iron, phosphorus and vitamins A, B and C. Grow strawberries and vegetable companion plants in alternate rows for their maximum benefit.
Annual Flowering Varieties
Annual flowering plants attract beneficial insects to strawberries they are near. Nasturtium (Tropaeolum spp.) grows 1 to 10 feet tall and 1 to 3 feet wide, depending on the species and cultivar, and bears cream, yellow, orange or red flowers with a spicy fragrance in spring through fall. Marigold (Calendula officinalis), growing 1 to 2 feet tall and wide, bears chrysanthemum-resembling, deep-orange to yellow, early summer flowers that bloom through fall in cool climates. Both of these annuals grow readily from seeds sown directly in the ground just before the average final frost date, and they reseed in favorable conditions.
Perennial Flowering Options
Strawberries are productive ground-cover plants in garden borders with perennial companions. Pincushion flower "Butterfly Blue" (Scabiosa "Butterfly Blue") and speedwell "Foxy Lady" (Veronica "Foxy Lady") thrive in the same full-sun sites and moist, well-drained soil in which strawberries do well. Hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9, "Butterfly Blue" grows 12 to 18 inches tall and wide. It bears 2-inch, lavender-blue, pincushionlike flowers spring through fall and into winter in mild climates. "Foxy Lady," which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8, grows 12 to 18 inches tall and 9 to 12 inches wide. It produces 12- to 15-inch spikes of fuschia-pink and white flowers in summer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月10日
Strawberries can survive in any region throughout North Carolina. The plants thrive in full sunlight; do not plant strawberries in a low-lying area prone to a spring frost.
Time Frame
Strawberries require different planting times for specific regions of North Carolina. Plant strawberry plants during March in the eastern part of the state; in the western part of the state and in the mountains, plant them in late March to April.
Harvest
In eastern North Carolina, strawberries are ready for harvest starting in April. If you plant in the western part of the state, anticipate growth in early May, while mountain strawberries are ready for harvest at the end of May. Pick strawberries in the morning, while they are still cool.
Soil
Test the soil four to six months before planting. Strawberries will thrive in a soil with a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5. If the pH balance is low, raise it by treating the soil with dolomitic lime.
Time Frame
Strawberries require different planting times for specific regions of North Carolina. Plant strawberry plants during March in the eastern part of the state; in the western part of the state and in the mountains, plant them in late March to April.
Harvest
In eastern North Carolina, strawberries are ready for harvest starting in April. If you plant in the western part of the state, anticipate growth in early May, while mountain strawberries are ready for harvest at the end of May. Pick strawberries in the morning, while they are still cool.
Soil
Test the soil four to six months before planting. Strawberries will thrive in a soil with a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5. If the pH balance is low, raise it by treating the soil with dolomitic lime.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Tomatoes require a deep root system to help pull water from the soil and keep full plants structurally sound. Helping the plant create a deep root system starts at planting. Deep root growth is increased in tomatoes when the seedlings are set deep in the soil, given plenty of water and given adequate space between plants. Tomatoes with deep root growth are more likely to also have an increase in fruit production over shallow-rooted plants.
Deep-Growth Benefits
Roots that grow deep below the plant help support the above-ground stem and branches. Deep roots are also able to maximize water absorption. Plants with shallow roots have an increased risk of drying out, developing fruit that forms poorly and developing stems that can't support heavy fruit production.
Planting Depth
Planting tomato seedlings deep into the garden soil increases the depth of root growth. The ideal depth for root growth on an mature plant is at least 18 inches, even though the main portion of the root system is found in the first 12 inches. To obtain this depth of root growth, dig a planting hole that allows you to set the seedling so the first set of true leaves are just above the soil line. Additional roots will form off the portion of stem that is below the soil level for a sturdy and deep-set plant.
Soil Factors
Loose garden soil assists in root growth by providing less resistance. Work the soil with a tiller or spade to a depth of 18 inches before planting the seedlings. Soil with a high clay content should be amended with compost to increase the organic content. High clay soils pack easily and are not ideal for deep root growth.
Care Considerations
Deep root growth requires some work on your part. Water tomato plants regularly to keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season. Healthy plants will not only grow tall, but also deep into the soil. Tomato plants that are in the fruit-producing stage require more water, up to 1 gallon per day. It is also ideal to set the plants 18 to 24 inches apart so they have adequate room for healthy and deep root growth.
Deep-Growth Benefits
Roots that grow deep below the plant help support the above-ground stem and branches. Deep roots are also able to maximize water absorption. Plants with shallow roots have an increased risk of drying out, developing fruit that forms poorly and developing stems that can't support heavy fruit production.
Planting Depth
Planting tomato seedlings deep into the garden soil increases the depth of root growth. The ideal depth for root growth on an mature plant is at least 18 inches, even though the main portion of the root system is found in the first 12 inches. To obtain this depth of root growth, dig a planting hole that allows you to set the seedling so the first set of true leaves are just above the soil line. Additional roots will form off the portion of stem that is below the soil level for a sturdy and deep-set plant.
Soil Factors
Loose garden soil assists in root growth by providing less resistance. Work the soil with a tiller or spade to a depth of 18 inches before planting the seedlings. Soil with a high clay content should be amended with compost to increase the organic content. High clay soils pack easily and are not ideal for deep root growth.
Care Considerations
Deep root growth requires some work on your part. Water tomato plants regularly to keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season. Healthy plants will not only grow tall, but also deep into the soil. Tomato plants that are in the fruit-producing stage require more water, up to 1 gallon per day. It is also ideal to set the plants 18 to 24 inches apart so they have adequate room for healthy and deep root growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Tomatoes come in varieties with different grow habits. The fruits can be grown on plants with a determinate, indeterminate and even semi-determinate manner. The manner of growth will determine if and how you will be pruning the plants. Pruning tomatoes is not necessary, but may increase the size of fruit marginally and will make the plants easier to manage. Pruning usually means removal of suckers and occasionally pinching back to enhance compact growth and stem strength. The difference between determinate and indeterminate ultimately boils down to the length of harvest and the time of harvest. Determinates produce fruit first, usually in a two- to three-week period, while indeterminate varieties will produce fruit for a longer period, but near the end of the summer.
Step 1
Look at the branching formation on your plants. If the branches are long with sparse foliage, they are likely indeterminate. A compact, bushy plant is determinate because it form flowers at the terminal end of the branch, which signals the stem to stop growing. You will need to stake an indeterminate plant or it will fall over when it bears fruit. Determinate plants rarely require staking.
Step 2
Check for suckers at the base of your tomato plant and at the crotch of a leaved stem. These are small growth that will increase density in the tomato plant's crown, but will not flower and fruit. They need to be pruned out and they only happen on indeterminate plants. If they are left to grow, the plant may have mildew problems due to lack of air circulation, problems with fruit ripening because sunlight is not penetrating, and the suckers draw energy that would be better used on the fruit.
Step 3
Consider the height of the plant. Determinate varieties are usually only 2 to 3 feet tall. Indeterminate plants can get 6 feet tall and have numerous long branches. The determinate plants are also referred to as compact and usually have smaller fruit than indeterminate varieties. Some of the newer varieties of tomatoes are determinate while the older ones and many heirlooms are indeterminate.
Step 4
Count how many flowers are in various stages and how many are simply mature and ready to fruit. The determinate plants will flower nearly all at once and set fruit that will be the one crop on the plant and will ripen at nearly the same time. Then the plant yellows and is finished. The indeterminate plant will have buds, flowers and flowers that have been pollinated all at once and the cycle will continue all season long.
Step 5
Check the plant tag for your variety. Some of the common indeterminate types grown in the home garden are: Brandywine, Early Girl and Mr. Stripey. Some determinates that have proven to do well in the home vegetable garden are: Celebrity, Small Fry and Oregon Spring.
Step 1
Look at the branching formation on your plants. If the branches are long with sparse foliage, they are likely indeterminate. A compact, bushy plant is determinate because it form flowers at the terminal end of the branch, which signals the stem to stop growing. You will need to stake an indeterminate plant or it will fall over when it bears fruit. Determinate plants rarely require staking.
Step 2
Check for suckers at the base of your tomato plant and at the crotch of a leaved stem. These are small growth that will increase density in the tomato plant's crown, but will not flower and fruit. They need to be pruned out and they only happen on indeterminate plants. If they are left to grow, the plant may have mildew problems due to lack of air circulation, problems with fruit ripening because sunlight is not penetrating, and the suckers draw energy that would be better used on the fruit.
Step 3
Consider the height of the plant. Determinate varieties are usually only 2 to 3 feet tall. Indeterminate plants can get 6 feet tall and have numerous long branches. The determinate plants are also referred to as compact and usually have smaller fruit than indeterminate varieties. Some of the newer varieties of tomatoes are determinate while the older ones and many heirlooms are indeterminate.
Step 4
Count how many flowers are in various stages and how many are simply mature and ready to fruit. The determinate plants will flower nearly all at once and set fruit that will be the one crop on the plant and will ripen at nearly the same time. Then the plant yellows and is finished. The indeterminate plant will have buds, flowers and flowers that have been pollinated all at once and the cycle will continue all season long.
Step 5
Check the plant tag for your variety. Some of the common indeterminate types grown in the home garden are: Brandywine, Early Girl and Mr. Stripey. Some determinates that have proven to do well in the home vegetable garden are: Celebrity, Small Fry and Oregon Spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) generally do well when they're grown in full sun and warm temperatures, but in very warm southern climates like that of Louisiana, tomato plants struggle to remain productive and set fruit when summer temperatures reach their peak. Louisiana's humidity doesn't help either, since tomatoes are more susceptible to disease in humid climates. The key to successfully growing tomatoes in the state lies in choosing the right varieties and timing the planting to avoid the worst of the climate's extremes.
Varieties for Louisiana
The best tomato cultivars for Louisiana include those that have been developed for both exceptional disease resistance and heat tolerance. Heat and disease tolerant varieties that do well in Louisiana include 'Heat Wave II,''Florida 91,' 'Sunchaser' and 'Sunleaper.'
In general, large beefsteak-type varieties do not produce well in Louisiana, but some varieties, including 'Beefmaster' and 'Ponderosa,' may be able to tolerate the state's climate.
Spring Planting
Tomatoes are vulnerable to damage from freezing temperatures, so don't set new plants in the garden until all danger of frost in your area is past. However, getting plants in the ground as early as possible will give them the best chance of producing a good crop of fruit before they succumb to the summer heat.
In southern Louisiana, including New Orleans, Lake Charles and Morgan City, it's generally safe to plant tomatoes in the middle of February. A bit farther north, in Baton Rogue and Opelousas, it's best to wait until the first half of March. In central Louisiana, including Alexandria, the safe planting time falls in late March, and in the northern part of the state, including Shreveport, temperatures are likely to be too cold until early April.
Fall Planting
Louisiana's relatively long growing season makes it possible to plant tomatoes in mid-summer for a fall harvest. When planted at this time, the plants begin to set fruit after the highest summer temperatures have passed but still have time to produce a crop before the first frosts of the fall kill the plants.
In southern Louisiana, sow seeds directly in the garden in the middle of July or transplant young plants in August. In northern Louisiana, fall tomatoes must be planted earlier to have time to produce before fall; in this part of the state, sow seeds near the end of June or set transplants in July.
Heat-tolerant varieties such as 'Spitfire,''Solar Set' and 'Solar Fire' are especially well suited to summer planting for a fall crop.
Varieties for Louisiana
The best tomato cultivars for Louisiana include those that have been developed for both exceptional disease resistance and heat tolerance. Heat and disease tolerant varieties that do well in Louisiana include 'Heat Wave II,''Florida 91,' 'Sunchaser' and 'Sunleaper.'
In general, large beefsteak-type varieties do not produce well in Louisiana, but some varieties, including 'Beefmaster' and 'Ponderosa,' may be able to tolerate the state's climate.
Spring Planting
Tomatoes are vulnerable to damage from freezing temperatures, so don't set new plants in the garden until all danger of frost in your area is past. However, getting plants in the ground as early as possible will give them the best chance of producing a good crop of fruit before they succumb to the summer heat.
In southern Louisiana, including New Orleans, Lake Charles and Morgan City, it's generally safe to plant tomatoes in the middle of February. A bit farther north, in Baton Rogue and Opelousas, it's best to wait until the first half of March. In central Louisiana, including Alexandria, the safe planting time falls in late March, and in the northern part of the state, including Shreveport, temperatures are likely to be too cold until early April.
Fall Planting
Louisiana's relatively long growing season makes it possible to plant tomatoes in mid-summer for a fall harvest. When planted at this time, the plants begin to set fruit after the highest summer temperatures have passed but still have time to produce a crop before the first frosts of the fall kill the plants.
In southern Louisiana, sow seeds directly in the garden in the middle of July or transplant young plants in August. In northern Louisiana, fall tomatoes must be planted earlier to have time to produce before fall; in this part of the state, sow seeds near the end of June or set transplants in July.
Heat-tolerant varieties such as 'Spitfire,''Solar Set' and 'Solar Fire' are especially well suited to summer planting for a fall crop.
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