文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Oenothera is a genus of about 145 species of herbaceous flowering plants native to the Americas. It is the type genus of the family Onagraceae. Common names include Evening Primrose, Suncups, and Sundrops. They are not closely related to the true Primroses (genus Primula).
The species vary in size from small alpine plants up to 4 inches (10 cm) tall, to vigorous lowland species growing up to 10 feet (3 m). The leaves form a basal rosette at ground level and spiral up to the flowering stems. The blades are dentate or deeply lobed. The flowers of many species open in the evening, hence the name “Evening Primrose”. They may open in under a minute. Most species have yellow flowers, but some have white, purple, pink, or red. Most native desert species are white. One of the most distinctive features of the flower is the stigma, which has four branches in an X shape.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Oenothera plants can be propagated by dividing established clumps in the spring or in the fall. Softwood cuttings may be struck in late spring. Easy to grow Oenothera seeds can be sown directly in the garden in late summer, early fall, or planted early in the spring.
Just cover the small seeds, and germinate at 65° to 70°F (18° to 21°C). Seeds require darkness to break dormancy. Space plants 5 to 9 inches (13 to 23 cm) apart. Plant in light, well drained soil with a pH of around 5.5 to 7.0. Sandy soil works well for this plant.
Oenothera is tolerant of dry and is a good candidate for xeriscaping. In really fertile soil the foliage can be robust, but fewer flowers form. Top dress with fully composted manure in the spring. Provide irrigation during long hot spells, and cut the plants back by a third after flowering to keep them looking neat. Hot summer weather may cause the plants to briefly stop flowering. Powdery mildew sometimes appears in humid conditions.
The species vary in size from small alpine plants up to 4 inches (10 cm) tall, to vigorous lowland species growing up to 10 feet (3 m). The leaves form a basal rosette at ground level and spiral up to the flowering stems. The blades are dentate or deeply lobed. The flowers of many species open in the evening, hence the name “Evening Primrose”. They may open in under a minute. Most species have yellow flowers, but some have white, purple, pink, or red. Most native desert species are white. One of the most distinctive features of the flower is the stigma, which has four branches in an X shape.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Oenothera plants can be propagated by dividing established clumps in the spring or in the fall. Softwood cuttings may be struck in late spring. Easy to grow Oenothera seeds can be sown directly in the garden in late summer, early fall, or planted early in the spring.
Just cover the small seeds, and germinate at 65° to 70°F (18° to 21°C). Seeds require darkness to break dormancy. Space plants 5 to 9 inches (13 to 23 cm) apart. Plant in light, well drained soil with a pH of around 5.5 to 7.0. Sandy soil works well for this plant.
Oenothera is tolerant of dry and is a good candidate for xeriscaping. In really fertile soil the foliage can be robust, but fewer flowers form. Top dress with fully composted manure in the spring. Provide irrigation during long hot spells, and cut the plants back by a third after flowering to keep them looking neat. Hot summer weather may cause the plants to briefly stop flowering. Powdery mildew sometimes appears in humid conditions.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Calendula is a genus of about 15–20 species of annual and perennial herbaceous plants in the daisy family Asteraceae that are often known as Marigolds. They are native to southwestern Asia, western Europe, Macaronesia, and the Mediterranean.
Calendulas have been used traditionally as culinary and medicinal herbs. The most commonly cultivated and used member of the genus is the Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis). Popular herbal and cosmetic products named “Calendula” invariably derive from C. officinalis.
The Calendula flower has long been a staple in British cottage gardens. When used in stews, broths and salads, petals of the flower add a spicy taste similar to saffron to many dishes. All parts of the plants are useful in many ways. The plant is said to stimulate the immune system and is currently used as an ingredient in many cosmetics. Flowers and leaves may be dried and stored for later use. In the vegetable garden, Calendula draws aphids away from valuable plants.
Romans and Greeks used the golden Calendula in many rituals and ceremonies, sometimes wearing crowns or garlands made from the flowers. One of its nicknames is “Mary’s Gold,” referring to the flowers’ use in early Catholic events in some countries. Flowers are sacred flowers in India and have been used to decorate the statues of Hindu deities since early times.
While uses of Calendula plants are diverse, growing it in the flower or herb garden is an optimum use of this attractive plant. Plants are frost tolerant and somewhat cold hardy and add long-lasting color and beauty in a flower bed or container.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The Calendula flower or flowering herb is an annual which will readily reseed. Too much care can result in stunted or slow growth of the plants. Poor to average, well draining soil and only occasional watering after plants are established is the secret to growing prolific Calendula plants.
Like most herbs, Calendulas are adaptable and do not require a lot of maintenance. Roots will often adapt to the space provided. The amazing Pot Marigold can be grown in containers or beds in full sun to shade conditions. As the Calendulas prefer cool temperatures, flowers last longer in filtered sun or shady areas.
If deadheaded regularly, this plant can bloom from spring through fall and beyond. In warmer areas, the Calendula may take a break from blooming during summer heat and then put on a show as temperatures fall in autumn. Regular pinching keeps the 1- to 3-foot (30 to 90 cm) plant bushy and prevents tall, spindly stalks.
Now that you’ve learned how to grow Calendulas, take advantage of their long-lasting blooms in the herb garden or light shade area. Experiment with use of Calendula flower petals to replace saffron in recipes. If you are so inclined, use plant parts as a topical treatment for minor scrapes and cuts.
Calendulas have been used traditionally as culinary and medicinal herbs. The most commonly cultivated and used member of the genus is the Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis). Popular herbal and cosmetic products named “Calendula” invariably derive from C. officinalis.
The Calendula flower has long been a staple in British cottage gardens. When used in stews, broths and salads, petals of the flower add a spicy taste similar to saffron to many dishes. All parts of the plants are useful in many ways. The plant is said to stimulate the immune system and is currently used as an ingredient in many cosmetics. Flowers and leaves may be dried and stored for later use. In the vegetable garden, Calendula draws aphids away from valuable plants.
Romans and Greeks used the golden Calendula in many rituals and ceremonies, sometimes wearing crowns or garlands made from the flowers. One of its nicknames is “Mary’s Gold,” referring to the flowers’ use in early Catholic events in some countries. Flowers are sacred flowers in India and have been used to decorate the statues of Hindu deities since early times.
While uses of Calendula plants are diverse, growing it in the flower or herb garden is an optimum use of this attractive plant. Plants are frost tolerant and somewhat cold hardy and add long-lasting color and beauty in a flower bed or container.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The Calendula flower or flowering herb is an annual which will readily reseed. Too much care can result in stunted or slow growth of the plants. Poor to average, well draining soil and only occasional watering after plants are established is the secret to growing prolific Calendula plants.
Like most herbs, Calendulas are adaptable and do not require a lot of maintenance. Roots will often adapt to the space provided. The amazing Pot Marigold can be grown in containers or beds in full sun to shade conditions. As the Calendulas prefer cool temperatures, flowers last longer in filtered sun or shady areas.
If deadheaded regularly, this plant can bloom from spring through fall and beyond. In warmer areas, the Calendula may take a break from blooming during summer heat and then put on a show as temperatures fall in autumn. Regular pinching keeps the 1- to 3-foot (30 to 90 cm) plant bushy and prevents tall, spindly stalks.
Now that you’ve learned how to grow Calendulas, take advantage of their long-lasting blooms in the herb garden or light shade area. Experiment with use of Calendula flower petals to replace saffron in recipes. If you are so inclined, use plant parts as a topical treatment for minor scrapes and cuts.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Plants in the Mint family (Lamiaceae) are very hardy perennials with vigorous growth habits. All types (including Sweet Mint, Spearmint, Peppermint, and Chocolate Mint) are fast-growing, spreading plants, so you must give them a place to spread without getting in the way, or plant them in a pot. Mint sends out runners that spread above and just below the ground, quickly forming large, lush green patches. In the right place it makes a pretty seasonal ground cover. You can also contain Mints in tight places such as between pavers of a walkway where your feet will brush against the leaves to release its fragrance.
The spikes of white or pinkish flowers are attractive, but brief. However, they do attract bees, butterflies and even birds. Most Mints are hybrids and will not grow true from seed.
Fresh leaves are a nice complement to lamb, fish, poultry, and vegetables such as peas, new potatoes, and carrots. Mint also blends well with green or fruit salads and beverages such as punch, lemonade, and tea. Two very well-known drinks, mint julep and Cuban Mojito, both depend on spearmint for their cool zest. Freeze Mint in cubes for iced tea. You can also preserve it in vinegar or dry it for potpourri or sachets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Mints will grow in full sun to partial shade.
Temperature: Depends on variety. Peppermint is very cold hardy, down to Zone 3. Spearmint handles the heat best, up to Zone 11.
Soil: Mint prefers a rich, moist soil with a slightly acidic pH between 6.5 and 7.0.
Growing Tips
Mint is one of the few culinary herbs that grows well in shady areas, although it can handle full sun if kept watered.
Cuttings of Mint will root easily in soil or water and mature plants can be divided and transplanted. However you can start new plants from seed. Sow outdoors in late spring or start seed indoors about 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost. Keep soil moist until seed germinates.
Mint prefers a rich, moist soil with a slightly acidic pH between 6.5 and 7.0. If the soil is somewhat lean, top dress yearly with organic matter and apply an organic fertilizer mid-season, after shearing.
To contain the roots and limit spreading, you can grow Mint in containers, above or sunk into the ground. Be careful to keep container Mints from flopping over and touching the ground. Stems will root quickly, if given the chance.
Harvesting
Snip sprigs and leaves as needed. If you don’t harvest your Mint regularly, it will benefit greatly from a shearing mid-season. At some point, you will probably notice the stems getting longer and the leaves getting shorter. That’s the time to cut the plants back by 1/3 to 1/2 and get them sending out fresh new foliage again. You can do small patches at a time, if you have a lot of Mint, and prolong the harvest season. All cuttings can be used, dried or frozen for later use. You can use, dry or freeze the cuttings.
Pests and Diseases
Sometimes gets rust, which appears like small orange spots on the undersides of leaves. Use an organic fungicide and try to allow plants to dry between waterings. Stressed plants may also be bothered by whitefly, spider mites, aphids, mealybugs.
The spikes of white or pinkish flowers are attractive, but brief. However, they do attract bees, butterflies and even birds. Most Mints are hybrids and will not grow true from seed.
Fresh leaves are a nice complement to lamb, fish, poultry, and vegetables such as peas, new potatoes, and carrots. Mint also blends well with green or fruit salads and beverages such as punch, lemonade, and tea. Two very well-known drinks, mint julep and Cuban Mojito, both depend on spearmint for their cool zest. Freeze Mint in cubes for iced tea. You can also preserve it in vinegar or dry it for potpourri or sachets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Mints will grow in full sun to partial shade.
Temperature: Depends on variety. Peppermint is very cold hardy, down to Zone 3. Spearmint handles the heat best, up to Zone 11.
Soil: Mint prefers a rich, moist soil with a slightly acidic pH between 6.5 and 7.0.
Growing Tips
Mint is one of the few culinary herbs that grows well in shady areas, although it can handle full sun if kept watered.
Cuttings of Mint will root easily in soil or water and mature plants can be divided and transplanted. However you can start new plants from seed. Sow outdoors in late spring or start seed indoors about 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost. Keep soil moist until seed germinates.
Mint prefers a rich, moist soil with a slightly acidic pH between 6.5 and 7.0. If the soil is somewhat lean, top dress yearly with organic matter and apply an organic fertilizer mid-season, after shearing.
To contain the roots and limit spreading, you can grow Mint in containers, above or sunk into the ground. Be careful to keep container Mints from flopping over and touching the ground. Stems will root quickly, if given the chance.
Harvesting
Snip sprigs and leaves as needed. If you don’t harvest your Mint regularly, it will benefit greatly from a shearing mid-season. At some point, you will probably notice the stems getting longer and the leaves getting shorter. That’s the time to cut the plants back by 1/3 to 1/2 and get them sending out fresh new foliage again. You can do small patches at a time, if you have a lot of Mint, and prolong the harvest season. All cuttings can be used, dried or frozen for later use. You can use, dry or freeze the cuttings.
Pests and Diseases
Sometimes gets rust, which appears like small orange spots on the undersides of leaves. Use an organic fungicide and try to allow plants to dry between waterings. Stressed plants may also be bothered by whitefly, spider mites, aphids, mealybugs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Rudbeckia hirta, also known as Black Eyed Susan, is a versatile, heat and drought tolerant flowering plant that should be included in many landscapes. Black Eyed Susan plants grow all summer long, providing perky color and velvety foliage, requiring little care from the gardener.
As with many wildflowers, growing Black Eyed Susan plants is simple and rewarding when blooms brighten the garden, natural area or meadow. A member of the Daisy Family, Black Eyed Susans go by other names, such as Gloriosa Daisy or Brown Eyed Susan.
Black Eyed Susans may be annual, biennial or short-lived perennials. Heights of various Rudbeckia reach from a few inches to a few feet. Dwarf varieties are available. Whatever the landscape situation, most areas can benefit from the yellow petaled blooms with brown centers, which begin in late spring and last throughout the summer.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Black Eyed Susan plants are drought resistant, self-seeding and grow in a variety of soils. Growing Black Eyed Susans prefer a neutral soil pH and a full sun to light shade location.
Black Eyed Susan care will often include deadheading the spent blooms of the flower. Deadheading encourages more blooms and a sturdier, more compact plant. It also can stop or slow the spread of the Black Eyed Susan flower, as seeds are contained in the blooms. Seeds may be allowed to dry on the stem for reseeding or collected and dried in other ways for replanting in other areas. Seeds do not necessarily grow to the same height as the parent from which they were collected.
The Black Eyed Susan flower attracts butterflies, bees and other pollinators to the garden. Deer, rabbits and other wildlife may be drawn to Black Eyed Susans, which they consume or use for shelter. When planted in the garden, plant the Black Eyed Susan flower near Lavender, Rosemary or other repellent plants to keep wildlife at bay.
Remember to use some of the flowers indoors as cut flowers, where they will last a week or longer.
As with many wildflowers, growing Black Eyed Susan plants is simple and rewarding when blooms brighten the garden, natural area or meadow. A member of the Daisy Family, Black Eyed Susans go by other names, such as Gloriosa Daisy or Brown Eyed Susan.
Black Eyed Susans may be annual, biennial or short-lived perennials. Heights of various Rudbeckia reach from a few inches to a few feet. Dwarf varieties are available. Whatever the landscape situation, most areas can benefit from the yellow petaled blooms with brown centers, which begin in late spring and last throughout the summer.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Black Eyed Susan plants are drought resistant, self-seeding and grow in a variety of soils. Growing Black Eyed Susans prefer a neutral soil pH and a full sun to light shade location.
Black Eyed Susan care will often include deadheading the spent blooms of the flower. Deadheading encourages more blooms and a sturdier, more compact plant. It also can stop or slow the spread of the Black Eyed Susan flower, as seeds are contained in the blooms. Seeds may be allowed to dry on the stem for reseeding or collected and dried in other ways for replanting in other areas. Seeds do not necessarily grow to the same height as the parent from which they were collected.
The Black Eyed Susan flower attracts butterflies, bees and other pollinators to the garden. Deer, rabbits and other wildlife may be drawn to Black Eyed Susans, which they consume or use for shelter. When planted in the garden, plant the Black Eyed Susan flower near Lavender, Rosemary or other repellent plants to keep wildlife at bay.
Remember to use some of the flowers indoors as cut flowers, where they will last a week or longer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Heuchera also known as Alumroot or Coral Bells, is a genus of evergreen, herbaceous perennial plants in the family Saxifragaceae, all native to North America. There are 50 to 70 species of Heuchera. Many of the improved varieties available today are hybrids showcasing various foliage colorations and flowering characteristics.
With its colorful foliage, Coral Bells are the perfect perennials to brighten up any garden throughout the entire growing season. Coral Bell forms attractive basal mounds with heart-shaped, rounded, or triangular leaves which can be smooth wavy, or ruffled. The leaf coloration varies by cultivar, but mainly includes various hues of amber, bronze-green, green, gold, pink, purple, deep purple and silver veined. In many instances, the coloration of the leaves varies with their environment and often changes with the seasons. In most locations, they are considered evergreen as the foliage lasts throughout the year. They produce clusters of cream to red colored coral bell shaped flowers on tall wiry stems that rise above the basal foliage in the late spring. Depending on the cultivar, they bloom from a few weeks or throughout the entire season.
Coral Bells are commonly used as accent or specimen plants, in woodland gardens or rock gardens, and as groundcovers or mass plantings. They are commonly used in patio pots or as components in mixed containers. The flower panicles make fine additions to cut flower arrangements. Coral Bells attracts butterflies and hummingbirds into the garden. They are also deer resistant.
Growing Conditions
Coral Bells prefer to be planted in locations with a fertile, moist, well-drained soil. They particularly do not perform well in locations with poor drainage during the winter months. Most Heuchera cultivars will grow more vigorously and have the best leaf coloration when they are planted in locations with partial shade, particularly in the afternoon. Purple leafed cultivars can tolerate more direct sun; in general the darker the purple coloration the more exposure to sun they can tolerate. Conversely, the amber and gold leafed cultivars are less sun tolerant; the more yellow the leaf coloration, the less tolerant to sun they are. In locations with full sun or full shade, most cultivars will usually survive, but they will be smaller and not look as lively.
Coral Bells are generally hardy throughout Zones 4 to 9. However, several cultivars are hardy to Zone 3 and a few of them can tolerate the heat and humidity of Zone 11.
General Care
Generally considered easy to grow and require little routine maintenance. To encourage continuous flowering or repeat bloom, deadhead the spent flower spikes as needed. Mulching during the summer months will help keep the soil moist and prevent injury to the shallow root system from heat. Coral Bells can be divided every 3 to 4 years if they lose vigor or when the crown gets too large.
Pests and Diseases
Generally, Coral Bells can be grown without any insect or disease problems. Bacterial and fungal leaf spots, Botrytis, Japanese beetles, powdery mildew, and strawberry root weevils may occasionally, but not usually, become problematic. Some cultivars may get leaf scorch when they are planted in hot, full sun. Overly wet conditions during the winter months can lead to some plants rotting out. Where climates fluctuate, frost heaving (where the plants push themselves up out of the ground) can be a concern; mulching before winter may help prevent this problem.
With its colorful foliage, Coral Bells are the perfect perennials to brighten up any garden throughout the entire growing season. Coral Bell forms attractive basal mounds with heart-shaped, rounded, or triangular leaves which can be smooth wavy, or ruffled. The leaf coloration varies by cultivar, but mainly includes various hues of amber, bronze-green, green, gold, pink, purple, deep purple and silver veined. In many instances, the coloration of the leaves varies with their environment and often changes with the seasons. In most locations, they are considered evergreen as the foliage lasts throughout the year. They produce clusters of cream to red colored coral bell shaped flowers on tall wiry stems that rise above the basal foliage in the late spring. Depending on the cultivar, they bloom from a few weeks or throughout the entire season.
Coral Bells are commonly used as accent or specimen plants, in woodland gardens or rock gardens, and as groundcovers or mass plantings. They are commonly used in patio pots or as components in mixed containers. The flower panicles make fine additions to cut flower arrangements. Coral Bells attracts butterflies and hummingbirds into the garden. They are also deer resistant.
Growing Conditions
Coral Bells prefer to be planted in locations with a fertile, moist, well-drained soil. They particularly do not perform well in locations with poor drainage during the winter months. Most Heuchera cultivars will grow more vigorously and have the best leaf coloration when they are planted in locations with partial shade, particularly in the afternoon. Purple leafed cultivars can tolerate more direct sun; in general the darker the purple coloration the more exposure to sun they can tolerate. Conversely, the amber and gold leafed cultivars are less sun tolerant; the more yellow the leaf coloration, the less tolerant to sun they are. In locations with full sun or full shade, most cultivars will usually survive, but they will be smaller and not look as lively.
Coral Bells are generally hardy throughout Zones 4 to 9. However, several cultivars are hardy to Zone 3 and a few of them can tolerate the heat and humidity of Zone 11.
General Care
Generally considered easy to grow and require little routine maintenance. To encourage continuous flowering or repeat bloom, deadhead the spent flower spikes as needed. Mulching during the summer months will help keep the soil moist and prevent injury to the shallow root system from heat. Coral Bells can be divided every 3 to 4 years if they lose vigor or when the crown gets too large.
Pests and Diseases
Generally, Coral Bells can be grown without any insect or disease problems. Bacterial and fungal leaf spots, Botrytis, Japanese beetles, powdery mildew, and strawberry root weevils may occasionally, but not usually, become problematic. Some cultivars may get leaf scorch when they are planted in hot, full sun. Overly wet conditions during the winter months can lead to some plants rotting out. Where climates fluctuate, frost heaving (where the plants push themselves up out of the ground) can be a concern; mulching before winter may help prevent this problem.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Phlomis is a genus of about 100 species of herbaceous plants, perennials, and shrubs that belong to the mint family Lamiaceae. Phlomis are all native to the Mediterranean region and spreading east across central Asia and China.
Phlomis shrubs have grayish green leaves that are slightly hairy and they are known for their whorls of yellow, white, or lilac flowers. The flowers generally consist of two-lipped corollas with calyces which are often spine-tipped. Their tall stature and interesting blooms make them great for bordering flower beds and other landscaped areas. Small species of Phlomis are also useful in rock gardens. Two of the common names of Phlomis include Jerusalem Sage and Lampwick Plant.
Phlomis varies depending on the specific type but generally the plants grow up to 3 to 4 feet (90 to 120 cm). They can be quite useful in the winter because their tall stalks and seed heads have a sculptural quality to them. Phlomis stalks produce small seedlings which can gradually spread out over an area. They are easy to control, though. You can just pull them up and relocate them to another area if you wish.
Growing in a Container
If you wish to plant Phlomis in a container, make use of a large one filled with compost with a soil foundation. Try not to be too generous in feeding and watering your plant as it actually grows well in drought. Once your Phlomis begins to form flowers, you may need to do some trimming as it has a tendency to grow uncontrollably. Trimming it back will put a limit to this. When winter comes, keep the plant protected in a cool area. Always remember that you should water it as minimally as possible.
Selecting Seeds and Transplanting
For propagating purposes, select seeds of medium size preferably during autumn. Make use of plug or seed trays, covering them with a thin coating of compost. Place them in a cool area. The germination process can be quite swift. As soon as your seedlings are big enough, you may begin to transplant them into an area of your garden that is safe from the frost.
Garden Cultivation
For garden cultivating, plant you Phlomis into your seed beds after all the dangers of frost have passed. Place them in groups of about 3 to 4 seeds separating them from each other by 24 to 30 inches (60 to 75 cm). Keep them under full sunlight and partial shade. They survive drought during the milder climates of summer and will only require minimal watering when the weather is extremely hot.
Maintaining Plant Health
To properly maintain Phlomis, you may divide the plants that are completely established when necessary during the season of spring. Come summertime, start trimming after the flowering stage to help retain the plant’s shape. Autumn is always the best time to start planting your seeds. During the cold winter, make sure that your plant is protected, especially those that are grown outdoors.
Phlomis shrubs have grayish green leaves that are slightly hairy and they are known for their whorls of yellow, white, or lilac flowers. The flowers generally consist of two-lipped corollas with calyces which are often spine-tipped. Their tall stature and interesting blooms make them great for bordering flower beds and other landscaped areas. Small species of Phlomis are also useful in rock gardens. Two of the common names of Phlomis include Jerusalem Sage and Lampwick Plant.
Phlomis varies depending on the specific type but generally the plants grow up to 3 to 4 feet (90 to 120 cm). They can be quite useful in the winter because their tall stalks and seed heads have a sculptural quality to them. Phlomis stalks produce small seedlings which can gradually spread out over an area. They are easy to control, though. You can just pull them up and relocate them to another area if you wish.
Growing in a Container
If you wish to plant Phlomis in a container, make use of a large one filled with compost with a soil foundation. Try not to be too generous in feeding and watering your plant as it actually grows well in drought. Once your Phlomis begins to form flowers, you may need to do some trimming as it has a tendency to grow uncontrollably. Trimming it back will put a limit to this. When winter comes, keep the plant protected in a cool area. Always remember that you should water it as minimally as possible.
Selecting Seeds and Transplanting
For propagating purposes, select seeds of medium size preferably during autumn. Make use of plug or seed trays, covering them with a thin coating of compost. Place them in a cool area. The germination process can be quite swift. As soon as your seedlings are big enough, you may begin to transplant them into an area of your garden that is safe from the frost.
Garden Cultivation
For garden cultivating, plant you Phlomis into your seed beds after all the dangers of frost have passed. Place them in groups of about 3 to 4 seeds separating them from each other by 24 to 30 inches (60 to 75 cm). Keep them under full sunlight and partial shade. They survive drought during the milder climates of summer and will only require minimal watering when the weather is extremely hot.
Maintaining Plant Health
To properly maintain Phlomis, you may divide the plants that are completely established when necessary during the season of spring. Come summertime, start trimming after the flowering stage to help retain the plant’s shape. Autumn is always the best time to start planting your seeds. During the cold winter, make sure that your plant is protected, especially those that are grown outdoors.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Penstemon is one of our more spectacular native plants. Found in mountainous areas and their foothills, the herbaceous species is a temperate zone darling and thrives in most areas of the western United States. Also called Beard Tongue, the plant produces dozens of tubular flowers arranged on a tall stalk.
If you have gone hiking in areas of Mexico to western North America from May to August, you will have seen these attractive flowers. Penstemon plants are related to Snapdragons and come in a variety of cultivated hues for the home gardener. The flowers are perfectly shaped to accommodate hummingbirds, who spend their nesting period at the Penstemon snack bar.
Each flower has five petals and they come in hues of lavender, salmon, pink, red and white. The stems are triangular and the leaves are arranged opposite with grayish green tones. Several different species exist and more are in cultivation. The exact shape of the leaves varies in each cultivar of Penstemon plants. They may be oval or sword shaped, smooth or waxy.
Penstemon is a commonly found perennial, which may also grow as an annual in chilly or excessively hot regions.
Growing Conditions
The best location for your Penstemon is in a full sun area with well draining soil. Penstemon care and maintenance is minimal if the site and moisture requirements are met. Poorly draining soils and freezing temperatures while the plant is still active are the biggest causes of plant mortality.
The perennial is remarkably tolerant of drought conditions and is a stalwart presence in even low nutrient soils. It has had to be adaptable to thrive in windy, exposed areas of mountain foothills.
Propagation
You can grow Penstemon from seed. They begin as rosettes low to the ground before forming the characteristic flower stalk. Indoor sowing should begin in late winter. Seedlings are ready to transplant when they have a second set of true leaves.
Space plants 1 to 3 feet apart and mix in a little compost at planting time to help conserve water and increase porosity.
Care and Maintenance
Water the young plants at least once per week as they establish. You can reduce watering as the plant matures. Mulch around the plants to help protect the roots from winter’s cold and prevents spring weeds.
The flower spire will produce seed in late summer to early fall and the petals fall away from the seeds.Penstemon makes an excellent cut flower, which will last for at least a week. Go native and plant some Penstemon plants in your sunny perennial garden.
If you have gone hiking in areas of Mexico to western North America from May to August, you will have seen these attractive flowers. Penstemon plants are related to Snapdragons and come in a variety of cultivated hues for the home gardener. The flowers are perfectly shaped to accommodate hummingbirds, who spend their nesting period at the Penstemon snack bar.
Each flower has five petals and they come in hues of lavender, salmon, pink, red and white. The stems are triangular and the leaves are arranged opposite with grayish green tones. Several different species exist and more are in cultivation. The exact shape of the leaves varies in each cultivar of Penstemon plants. They may be oval or sword shaped, smooth or waxy.
Penstemon is a commonly found perennial, which may also grow as an annual in chilly or excessively hot regions.
Growing Conditions
The best location for your Penstemon is in a full sun area with well draining soil. Penstemon care and maintenance is minimal if the site and moisture requirements are met. Poorly draining soils and freezing temperatures while the plant is still active are the biggest causes of plant mortality.
The perennial is remarkably tolerant of drought conditions and is a stalwart presence in even low nutrient soils. It has had to be adaptable to thrive in windy, exposed areas of mountain foothills.
Propagation
You can grow Penstemon from seed. They begin as rosettes low to the ground before forming the characteristic flower stalk. Indoor sowing should begin in late winter. Seedlings are ready to transplant when they have a second set of true leaves.
Space plants 1 to 3 feet apart and mix in a little compost at planting time to help conserve water and increase porosity.
Care and Maintenance
Water the young plants at least once per week as they establish. You can reduce watering as the plant matures. Mulch around the plants to help protect the roots from winter’s cold and prevents spring weeds.
The flower spire will produce seed in late summer to early fall and the petals fall away from the seeds.Penstemon makes an excellent cut flower, which will last for at least a week. Go native and plant some Penstemon plants in your sunny perennial garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Planting Speedwell (Veronica officinalis) in the garden is a great way to enjoy long-lasting blooms throughout the summer season. These easy-care plants don’t require much upkeep once established, making them ideal for the busy gardener.
An easy to care for perennial with flowers in an array of vibrant blues, pinks and white, the Speedwell is drought resistant but should be watered in the summer when there is less than an inch of rainfall per week. The plant has a long blooming season, from June to August, and is fairly pest and disease resistant as well, with the exception of some issues like powdery mildew, spider mites, and thrips.
Speedwell perennials are reportedly deer and rabbit resistant, but butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted to their dizzying hues. Flowers will bloom for six to eight weeks throughout the summer months and, as a result, make beautiful cut flower additions to vase arrangements or for container gardening in mixed flower groupings.
Growing Conditions
Speedwell thrives in conditions as wide ranging as full sun to partial shade and in loamy, sandy or clay dense soils. However, it does prefer a sunny location with well draining soil. The soil pH can be as liberal as neutral, alkaline or acidic, with moisture content from average to quite moist.
The hardy medium sized plant, with striking 1 to 3 foot (30 to 90 cm) flower spikes, flourishes in USDA hardiness zones 3-8. The Speedwell is tolerant of a variety of conditions but prefers full sun and well drained soil.
Speedwell can be sown from seed; however, it is more commonly purchased from a nursery so planting it in the garden can take place right away in spring.
General Care
Speedwell plant care is relatively low maintenance. In order to facilitate maximum blooming, it is advisable to remove the faded spikes from Speedwell and periodically divide the plant every few years in the early spring or fall.
The tallest Speedwell specimens generally require staking, and in late autumn after the first frost, cut stems back to an inch or so above ground level.
An easy to care for perennial with flowers in an array of vibrant blues, pinks and white, the Speedwell is drought resistant but should be watered in the summer when there is less than an inch of rainfall per week. The plant has a long blooming season, from June to August, and is fairly pest and disease resistant as well, with the exception of some issues like powdery mildew, spider mites, and thrips.
Speedwell perennials are reportedly deer and rabbit resistant, but butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted to their dizzying hues. Flowers will bloom for six to eight weeks throughout the summer months and, as a result, make beautiful cut flower additions to vase arrangements or for container gardening in mixed flower groupings.
Growing Conditions
Speedwell thrives in conditions as wide ranging as full sun to partial shade and in loamy, sandy or clay dense soils. However, it does prefer a sunny location with well draining soil. The soil pH can be as liberal as neutral, alkaline or acidic, with moisture content from average to quite moist.
The hardy medium sized plant, with striking 1 to 3 foot (30 to 90 cm) flower spikes, flourishes in USDA hardiness zones 3-8. The Speedwell is tolerant of a variety of conditions but prefers full sun and well drained soil.
Speedwell can be sown from seed; however, it is more commonly purchased from a nursery so planting it in the garden can take place right away in spring.
General Care
Speedwell plant care is relatively low maintenance. In order to facilitate maximum blooming, it is advisable to remove the faded spikes from Speedwell and periodically divide the plant every few years in the early spring or fall.
The tallest Speedwell specimens generally require staking, and in late autumn after the first frost, cut stems back to an inch or so above ground level.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Kohleria plants originated in Mexico and South America. They produce tubular and often speckled flowers in a variety of colors, and their foliage can be decorative as well. Although hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, they are easily damaged by excess water, so they are usually grown as houseplants. Their culture is similar to that of African Violets, but the height of Kohlerias varies from 6 inches (15 cm) up to 4 feet (1.2 m).
Growing Conditions
Light: Kohleria needs plenty of bright light to bloom. Keep out of direct sunlight.
Water: Spring through fall, water thoroughly and allow the top 2 inches (5 cm) to dry out between waterings. In winter, water just enough to prevent leaves from wilting. Rhizomes store water so it’s more tolerant of dry soil than wet.
Humidity: Kohleria prefers relative humidity above 50%, but will tolerate lower levels. Use a room humidifier or a humidity tray to maintain moist air. Don’t mist this plant because the hairy leaves will trap moisture, which will cause spots and possibly botrytis.
Temperature: Average room temperatures 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C). Don’t expose your plant to temps below 60°F (16°C).
Soil: Peat moss-based potting mix with perlite added for good drainage. African Violet potting mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: Feed every 2 weeks spring and summer with a high-phosphorus liquid fertilizer (such as 10-30-10) diluted by half.
General Care
Put your Kohleria where it’ll get plenty of light, but out of direct sun. Filtered light from a south- or west-facing window will give it the light it needs.
Keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. Dry soil will cause the plant to go dormant. Soggy soil will quickly cause the rhizomes to rot.
You can expect dozens of blooms on plants in spring and summer. You’ll get the most blooms by providing plenty of bright, indirect light.
This one likes to be slightly pot-bound, and blooms best this way. Repot in spring when it has outgrown its pot. Always use a container with drainage holes to prevent soggy soil.
Propagation
Divide rhizomes in spring and pot separately. Or take 4-inch (10 cm) leaf tip cuttings with at least 1 pair of leaves attached and root in moist potting mix. Cover the whole thing with plastic or a glass cloche to hold in moisture. Cuttings root easily in about 4 to 6 weeks.
Growing Conditions
Light: Kohleria needs plenty of bright light to bloom. Keep out of direct sunlight.
Water: Spring through fall, water thoroughly and allow the top 2 inches (5 cm) to dry out between waterings. In winter, water just enough to prevent leaves from wilting. Rhizomes store water so it’s more tolerant of dry soil than wet.
Humidity: Kohleria prefers relative humidity above 50%, but will tolerate lower levels. Use a room humidifier or a humidity tray to maintain moist air. Don’t mist this plant because the hairy leaves will trap moisture, which will cause spots and possibly botrytis.
Temperature: Average room temperatures 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C). Don’t expose your plant to temps below 60°F (16°C).
Soil: Peat moss-based potting mix with perlite added for good drainage. African Violet potting mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: Feed every 2 weeks spring and summer with a high-phosphorus liquid fertilizer (such as 10-30-10) diluted by half.
General Care
Put your Kohleria where it’ll get plenty of light, but out of direct sun. Filtered light from a south- or west-facing window will give it the light it needs.
Keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. Dry soil will cause the plant to go dormant. Soggy soil will quickly cause the rhizomes to rot.
You can expect dozens of blooms on plants in spring and summer. You’ll get the most blooms by providing plenty of bright, indirect light.
This one likes to be slightly pot-bound, and blooms best this way. Repot in spring when it has outgrown its pot. Always use a container with drainage holes to prevent soggy soil.
Propagation
Divide rhizomes in spring and pot separately. Or take 4-inch (10 cm) leaf tip cuttings with at least 1 pair of leaves attached and root in moist potting mix. Cover the whole thing with plastic or a glass cloche to hold in moisture. Cuttings root easily in about 4 to 6 weeks.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Orchids are exotic plants that create beautiful blooms. With the right care, most orchids bloom at least once per year. Every orchid species has slightly different needs in order to thrive and bloom, but the variables are all the same – light, temperature, water, potting material, and humidity. By adjusting the environment for your particular species of orchid and providing a few seasonal triggers, you can get your plants to bloom.
1. Providing the Right Growth Environment
Make sure the light intensity is correct for the species
There are many species of orchids, but Moth Orchids (Phalaenopsis) are the most common and easiest species to grow. This is the kind that is sold in most florist shops and nurseries. Placing them on a sunny windowsill will usually make them happy. They like bright light, but not direct sun.
Provide the right amount of water
The Phalaenopsis orchid likes to be watered once per week during its resting period (when it experiences no growth or blooms) and twice per week during active growth. It prefers to be kept dry between waterings. This means you should only water it when the potting material (which is usually a free-draining blend of fir bark) appears dry, or else the orchid could die. If the bark looks damp, it’s too soon.
Water your orchid early in the morning.
Most indoor orchids should be watered every 5 to 12 days, depending on the species and season.
Maintain a humid environment
Most orchids are tropical plants, so they prefer a humidity level that they probably aren’t getting in the average living room. During the winter, a 30 percent humidity level is average for a home. The Phalaenopsis orchid likes 40 to 70 percent humidity. Most other orchids prefer 60 to 80 percent humidity. By adjusting the humidity for them, all orchid species will grow a little better. If you group your plants together in one growing area, this will create humidity.
2. Triggering Blooms
Consider using full-spectrum lights
When an orchid refuses to bloom, the reason is usually because it isn’t getting enough light. If you are unable to provide the right amount of natural light for your orchid, look into setting up full-spectrum lights indoors. You can purchase these lighting systems at nurseries or order them online.
Use a fertilizer formulated for orchids
Feeding an orchid the right fertilizers can stimulate it to grow faster and bloom sooner. Look for orchid food that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). It should also include trace elements like iron. Always read and follow the instructions of your orchid food carefully. Orchids should be watered thoroughly before fertilizing them.
Fertilize your orchid once per month during the active growing season
The active growing season for orchids is approximately March through November. Don’t fertilize from mid-December until mid-February. If you fertilize it less than that, its growth may become stunted and blooms won’t appear. If you fertilize it more frequently than that, you risk burning the roots and leaves of the plant.
Drop the temperature by 10 degrees at night
Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) are temperature sensitive. In nature, their blooms are triggered when fall arrives and the temperatures drop at night. If an orchid doesn’t experience a period of cooler nights, even an indoor orchid, it may refuse to make buds or bloom. If your orchid is sitting in a window, it’s probably experiencing natural temperature drops coming from outside to some extent. However, this may not be enough to trigger blooms. Before you go to bed each night, turn your thermostat down by 10 degrees.
One to two weeks of nightly temperature drops will usually trigger an orchid to bloom, as long as it’s the right time of their growth cycle.
For Phalaenopsis orchids, provide night temperatures of 60°F (15.5°C) and day temperatures of 80°F (25°C).
Diagnosing Your Orchid
Pay attention to the season
Each species of orchid has a growth season – a time of the year when it will naturally bloom. If it currently isn’t the orchid’s growth season, it isn’t going to bloom. Most orchids, including the Phalaenopsis orchid, will experience the growth of new leaves during the summer months. Spikes and flower buds will appear in late fall and soon after it will bloom. It will continue to bloom until spring. The blooming season usually ends around mid-February.
Check the leaf color
If an orchid isn’t blooming, the reason is almost always because it’s not getting enough light. One of the best ways to figure out if your orchid is getting enough light is to check its leaf color. A healthy orchid getting the right amount of sun exposure will have bright green leaves. If the leaves are dark green, your orchid isn’t getting enough light. Move it to a brighter spot, like a south-facing window. If the leaves are reddish-green, the orchid is getting too much light. Move it to a less sunny spot, like an east or north-facing window.
Check the stems and leaves for signs of dehydration
If the stems and leaves appear wilted or shriveled, your orchid needs more water. You will always need to water more frequently when the orchid is actively blooming. During the resting period (when there are no blooms), water your orchid about once per week. During the active blooming phase, water it twice per week.
Increase watering when you see new shoots and roots appear on your orchid.
Too much water can kill an orchid quickly. Never allow your orchid to sit in a soggy, water-logged pot.
Evaluate the potting material
Most orchids, including Phalaenopsis, do not grow in regular soil. They need a growing medium that provides fast water drainage and good air circulation. A free-draining blend of fir bark (sometimes referred as fir bark nuggets) is the most popular potting material for moth orchids. If you can’t identify your plant’s current growing medium, re-pot it in fir bark.
1. Providing the Right Growth Environment
Make sure the light intensity is correct for the species
There are many species of orchids, but Moth Orchids (Phalaenopsis) are the most common and easiest species to grow. This is the kind that is sold in most florist shops and nurseries. Placing them on a sunny windowsill will usually make them happy. They like bright light, but not direct sun.
Provide the right amount of water
The Phalaenopsis orchid likes to be watered once per week during its resting period (when it experiences no growth or blooms) and twice per week during active growth. It prefers to be kept dry between waterings. This means you should only water it when the potting material (which is usually a free-draining blend of fir bark) appears dry, or else the orchid could die. If the bark looks damp, it’s too soon.
Water your orchid early in the morning.
Most indoor orchids should be watered every 5 to 12 days, depending on the species and season.
Maintain a humid environment
Most orchids are tropical plants, so they prefer a humidity level that they probably aren’t getting in the average living room. During the winter, a 30 percent humidity level is average for a home. The Phalaenopsis orchid likes 40 to 70 percent humidity. Most other orchids prefer 60 to 80 percent humidity. By adjusting the humidity for them, all orchid species will grow a little better. If you group your plants together in one growing area, this will create humidity.
2. Triggering Blooms
Consider using full-spectrum lights
When an orchid refuses to bloom, the reason is usually because it isn’t getting enough light. If you are unable to provide the right amount of natural light for your orchid, look into setting up full-spectrum lights indoors. You can purchase these lighting systems at nurseries or order them online.
Use a fertilizer formulated for orchids
Feeding an orchid the right fertilizers can stimulate it to grow faster and bloom sooner. Look for orchid food that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). It should also include trace elements like iron. Always read and follow the instructions of your orchid food carefully. Orchids should be watered thoroughly before fertilizing them.
Fertilize your orchid once per month during the active growing season
The active growing season for orchids is approximately March through November. Don’t fertilize from mid-December until mid-February. If you fertilize it less than that, its growth may become stunted and blooms won’t appear. If you fertilize it more frequently than that, you risk burning the roots and leaves of the plant.
Drop the temperature by 10 degrees at night
Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) are temperature sensitive. In nature, their blooms are triggered when fall arrives and the temperatures drop at night. If an orchid doesn’t experience a period of cooler nights, even an indoor orchid, it may refuse to make buds or bloom. If your orchid is sitting in a window, it’s probably experiencing natural temperature drops coming from outside to some extent. However, this may not be enough to trigger blooms. Before you go to bed each night, turn your thermostat down by 10 degrees.
One to two weeks of nightly temperature drops will usually trigger an orchid to bloom, as long as it’s the right time of their growth cycle.
For Phalaenopsis orchids, provide night temperatures of 60°F (15.5°C) and day temperatures of 80°F (25°C).
Diagnosing Your Orchid
Pay attention to the season
Each species of orchid has a growth season – a time of the year when it will naturally bloom. If it currently isn’t the orchid’s growth season, it isn’t going to bloom. Most orchids, including the Phalaenopsis orchid, will experience the growth of new leaves during the summer months. Spikes and flower buds will appear in late fall and soon after it will bloom. It will continue to bloom until spring. The blooming season usually ends around mid-February.
Check the leaf color
If an orchid isn’t blooming, the reason is almost always because it’s not getting enough light. One of the best ways to figure out if your orchid is getting enough light is to check its leaf color. A healthy orchid getting the right amount of sun exposure will have bright green leaves. If the leaves are dark green, your orchid isn’t getting enough light. Move it to a brighter spot, like a south-facing window. If the leaves are reddish-green, the orchid is getting too much light. Move it to a less sunny spot, like an east or north-facing window.
Check the stems and leaves for signs of dehydration
If the stems and leaves appear wilted or shriveled, your orchid needs more water. You will always need to water more frequently when the orchid is actively blooming. During the resting period (when there are no blooms), water your orchid about once per week. During the active blooming phase, water it twice per week.
Increase watering when you see new shoots and roots appear on your orchid.
Too much water can kill an orchid quickly. Never allow your orchid to sit in a soggy, water-logged pot.
Evaluate the potting material
Most orchids, including Phalaenopsis, do not grow in regular soil. They need a growing medium that provides fast water drainage and good air circulation. A free-draining blend of fir bark (sometimes referred as fir bark nuggets) is the most popular potting material for moth orchids. If you can’t identify your plant’s current growing medium, re-pot it in fir bark.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Are you really good at killing your houseplants? It’s a talent that, unfortunately, many possess. Plants can be temperamental—it’s true. But there are a few things you might be doing to contribute to their demise. Have you tried everything you can to keep them alive? You may think you have…but here is a list of 12 ways you could be killing your houseplants.
1. Not reading care instructions
Just like people, no two plants are the same. The number-one most critical rule we can stress when you receive your plant is: read the care instructions included. Even plants that you buy at a nursery should come with instructions that, when followed precisely, can prevent you from becoming a plant killer.
2. Over watering
People often think that more water is better. But all plants have different needs when it comes to watering—which can vary based on the time of year, amount of light and temperature. The easiest solution is to understand the moisture level of your plant. Some plants like to dry out completely between waterings, others need to be kept moist—so the safest bet is to check the care instructions. Stick your finger into the dirt about an inch (2.5 cm) deep to feel whether it’s dry or moist.
When excess water collects at the bottom of the plant’s container, it causes root rot, which can kill your indoor plant. The best way to avoid this is to remove the plastic grower pot from inside the decorative pot, water it in the sink and then let it drain completely before replacing it back in its decorative outer pot.
3. Underwatering
What’s just as harmful to your plant as overwatering? You guessed it: underwatering. When in doubt, check the care instructions to learn how often to water your particular plant species. Again, stick your finger in the soil to see if it feels dry. Some plants, like the Peace Lily, are very expressive—the leaves will droop when it is in need of a good watering, and will perk right back up again once its thirst is quenched. Water the soil thoroughly each time, making sure it drains from the holes at the bottom of your pot.
4. Too much/too little light
All plants need light at varying degrees. Plants will tell you if they’re not getting the right amount of light. The leaves could change color or turn brown if they are getting too much light and essentially become sunburned. On the flip side, if you notice your plant “craning its neck” toward the light, or producing very small, pale leaves, it wants more. Most plants do well with bright, filtered light—but always follow the care instructions.
5. Extreme temperatures
Most plants like the same temperature we like. The safest temperature is a mild 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 21 degrees Celsius)—not too hot, not too cold. If you place your houseplant near a window, be cognizant of the weather outside—with seasonal changes it could go from very hot in the summer to freezing cold in the winter, effecting your plant’s life. Additionally, if you start cranking on the heater or air conditioner, it could dry out your plant. Use a mister or make a humidity tray to increase the humidity in a dry environment. Keep in mind, “If you’re comfortable, they are probably ok. But don’t forget to check the care card for temperature specifics!
6. Not “pinching”
Certain flowering plants require you to “pinch off” old blooms to encourage new growth. You’ll know when to pinch because the blooms will have turned brown, indicating that they are dying. Pinch the bloom, by holding the stem with one hand and using your other hand or gardening sheers to pluck off the entire bloom.
7. Not repotting
Houseplants can become bound by the containers they are in. Most plants outgrow their pot within one to two years, so it’s important to swap it out for a larger one with fresh soil, or replant it in the ground outside, giving it more space to grow. You’ll know when to repot because the leaves may turn yellow, indicating it isn’t getting enough nutrients from the soil anymore or water may pour quickly out the bottom holes as you water it. In some cases, you may see roots growing out of the drain holes in the plastic grower pot.
To inspect the roots, water the plant thoroughly, and then carefully tap the side of the grower pot onto a hard surface. Gently remove the plant from the plastic grower pot and if the roots have grown into a mass or matt around the soil, or the plant will not easily lift from the plastic pot, your plant is root bound and needs to be repotted. Also keep in mind that you should never repot when the plant is blooming. It is also important to make sure you select the right size pot for your plant from the beginning.
8. Ignoring insects
Some of the most common damaging insects for plants include gnats, spider mites and white flies. Prevent pests from attacking your garden with such techniques as waiting 30 days to introduce new plants to the area you keep other plants, removing weak plants, using seaweed mulch or spray and keeping leaves clean by wiping them down with soap and water. If bugs are damaging your plants, first identify which kind it is, then use a natural remedy to eliminate them. Keep in mind that some insects are actually beneficial to your plants, like ladybugs or praying mantises.
9. Neglect
Going on vacation? Nice for you, but not for your houseplants. Make sure that you arrange for someone to come and water your plants while you are away. Another option is to use a Plant Nanny device—a terracotta-watering stake that you attach a bottle of water to on one end, and then insert the other end into the soil. When the soil dries, it automatically draws water from the bottle.
10. Not fertilizing
Houseplants are dependent on their soil for nutrients, and may need supplements for optimal health, growth and bloom production. Using a balanced houseplant food (which can be purchased at any nursery or big box store) on a regular basis, as instructed by the manufacturer, will ensure your plant is getting the nutrients it needs. Check to see if your plant variety is listed on the back label when picking out a fertilizer. Some plants, such as orchids, require fertilizers specifically formulated for their needs. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label for your plant, as over-fertilizing can kill your plants.
11. Wrong soil
Each plant species has different needs when it comes to the type of soil it requires based on its natural environment. You can mix your own soil at home, or choose a high-quality, organic soil with medium weight to give it the longest lifespan. Make sure that the soil you mix or buy is designed for your plant’s needs. Some plants do best in thick, dense soil, while other plants, such as cacti, need fast-draining soil with high sand and peat content, to prevent root rot.
12. Moving too much
Plants become accustomed to their place in your home, and don’t like to be moved around too much. If a plant is thriving under certain temperatures and light conditions, moving it could make it difficult to adjust to its new environment. Typically you’ll want to find a good place for your houseplant and keep it there.
Plants are beautiful additions to your home, bringing a lively, fresh outdoor feel inside. Don’t be afraid to own an indoor houseplant because you are a notorious plant killer—start off with easy plants to care for, like succulents, money trees or evergreen lilies. Once you get into your groove with your houseplants, it becomes fun to maintain them—and well worth the little extra work.
1. Not reading care instructions
Just like people, no two plants are the same. The number-one most critical rule we can stress when you receive your plant is: read the care instructions included. Even plants that you buy at a nursery should come with instructions that, when followed precisely, can prevent you from becoming a plant killer.
2. Over watering
People often think that more water is better. But all plants have different needs when it comes to watering—which can vary based on the time of year, amount of light and temperature. The easiest solution is to understand the moisture level of your plant. Some plants like to dry out completely between waterings, others need to be kept moist—so the safest bet is to check the care instructions. Stick your finger into the dirt about an inch (2.5 cm) deep to feel whether it’s dry or moist.
When excess water collects at the bottom of the plant’s container, it causes root rot, which can kill your indoor plant. The best way to avoid this is to remove the plastic grower pot from inside the decorative pot, water it in the sink and then let it drain completely before replacing it back in its decorative outer pot.
3. Underwatering
What’s just as harmful to your plant as overwatering? You guessed it: underwatering. When in doubt, check the care instructions to learn how often to water your particular plant species. Again, stick your finger in the soil to see if it feels dry. Some plants, like the Peace Lily, are very expressive—the leaves will droop when it is in need of a good watering, and will perk right back up again once its thirst is quenched. Water the soil thoroughly each time, making sure it drains from the holes at the bottom of your pot.
4. Too much/too little light
All plants need light at varying degrees. Plants will tell you if they’re not getting the right amount of light. The leaves could change color or turn brown if they are getting too much light and essentially become sunburned. On the flip side, if you notice your plant “craning its neck” toward the light, or producing very small, pale leaves, it wants more. Most plants do well with bright, filtered light—but always follow the care instructions.
5. Extreme temperatures
Most plants like the same temperature we like. The safest temperature is a mild 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 21 degrees Celsius)—not too hot, not too cold. If you place your houseplant near a window, be cognizant of the weather outside—with seasonal changes it could go from very hot in the summer to freezing cold in the winter, effecting your plant’s life. Additionally, if you start cranking on the heater or air conditioner, it could dry out your plant. Use a mister or make a humidity tray to increase the humidity in a dry environment. Keep in mind, “If you’re comfortable, they are probably ok. But don’t forget to check the care card for temperature specifics!
6. Not “pinching”
Certain flowering plants require you to “pinch off” old blooms to encourage new growth. You’ll know when to pinch because the blooms will have turned brown, indicating that they are dying. Pinch the bloom, by holding the stem with one hand and using your other hand or gardening sheers to pluck off the entire bloom.
7. Not repotting
Houseplants can become bound by the containers they are in. Most plants outgrow their pot within one to two years, so it’s important to swap it out for a larger one with fresh soil, or replant it in the ground outside, giving it more space to grow. You’ll know when to repot because the leaves may turn yellow, indicating it isn’t getting enough nutrients from the soil anymore or water may pour quickly out the bottom holes as you water it. In some cases, you may see roots growing out of the drain holes in the plastic grower pot.
To inspect the roots, water the plant thoroughly, and then carefully tap the side of the grower pot onto a hard surface. Gently remove the plant from the plastic grower pot and if the roots have grown into a mass or matt around the soil, or the plant will not easily lift from the plastic pot, your plant is root bound and needs to be repotted. Also keep in mind that you should never repot when the plant is blooming. It is also important to make sure you select the right size pot for your plant from the beginning.
8. Ignoring insects
Some of the most common damaging insects for plants include gnats, spider mites and white flies. Prevent pests from attacking your garden with such techniques as waiting 30 days to introduce new plants to the area you keep other plants, removing weak plants, using seaweed mulch or spray and keeping leaves clean by wiping them down with soap and water. If bugs are damaging your plants, first identify which kind it is, then use a natural remedy to eliminate them. Keep in mind that some insects are actually beneficial to your plants, like ladybugs or praying mantises.
9. Neglect
Going on vacation? Nice for you, but not for your houseplants. Make sure that you arrange for someone to come and water your plants while you are away. Another option is to use a Plant Nanny device—a terracotta-watering stake that you attach a bottle of water to on one end, and then insert the other end into the soil. When the soil dries, it automatically draws water from the bottle.
10. Not fertilizing
Houseplants are dependent on their soil for nutrients, and may need supplements for optimal health, growth and bloom production. Using a balanced houseplant food (which can be purchased at any nursery or big box store) on a regular basis, as instructed by the manufacturer, will ensure your plant is getting the nutrients it needs. Check to see if your plant variety is listed on the back label when picking out a fertilizer. Some plants, such as orchids, require fertilizers specifically formulated for their needs. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label for your plant, as over-fertilizing can kill your plants.
11. Wrong soil
Each plant species has different needs when it comes to the type of soil it requires based on its natural environment. You can mix your own soil at home, or choose a high-quality, organic soil with medium weight to give it the longest lifespan. Make sure that the soil you mix or buy is designed for your plant’s needs. Some plants do best in thick, dense soil, while other plants, such as cacti, need fast-draining soil with high sand and peat content, to prevent root rot.
12. Moving too much
Plants become accustomed to their place in your home, and don’t like to be moved around too much. If a plant is thriving under certain temperatures and light conditions, moving it could make it difficult to adjust to its new environment. Typically you’ll want to find a good place for your houseplant and keep it there.
Plants are beautiful additions to your home, bringing a lively, fresh outdoor feel inside. Don’t be afraid to own an indoor houseplant because you are a notorious plant killer—start off with easy plants to care for, like succulents, money trees or evergreen lilies. Once you get into your groove with your houseplants, it becomes fun to maintain them—and well worth the little extra work.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Spring is a good time to begin growing and digging, although planning can take place before the snow melts. Gardeners spend most of the summer watering, weeding, and watching young plants grow. Fall is a good time to plant trees, shrubs, bulbs, and some perennials.
1. Get an idea. Is this going to be a vegetable garden? An herb garden? A flower garden? If you choose to grow flowers, do you want annuals, which you must replant each year but which give color most of the summer? Or do you prefer perennials, which have a shorter bloom time but come back year after year? You can mix any of the above—after all, it’s your garden.
2. Pick a place. Almost all vegetables and most flowers need about six hours of full sun each day. Spend a day in your chosen spot and watch how the sun moves across the space. It might receive more sun than you think. But don’t despair if your lot is largely sunless; many plants tolerate shade. Check plant tags or ask the staff at your local garden center to find out how much sun a plant requires.
3. Clear the ground. Get rid of the sod covering the area you plan to plant. If you want quick results, you can dig it out, but it’s easier to smother it with newspaper. A layer of five sheets is usually thick enough. Spread a 3-inch (7.5 cm) layer of compost (or combination of potting soil and topsoil) on the newspaper and wait. It’ll take about four months for the compost and paper to decompose.
If you don’t want to wait or if the area is covered with weeds, you’re better off digging the sod out.
4. Improve the soil. Invariably, soil needs a boost. The solution is simple: organic matter. Add a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of compost, decayed leaves, dry grass clippings, or old manure. If you dig soil, till the organic matter into the soil. If you decide not to dig or are working with an established bed you can’t dig, leave the organic matter on the surface and it will work its way into the soil in a few months.
5. Dig or don’t. Digging loosens the soil so roots can penetrate more easily. But digging when the soil is too wet or too dry can ruin its structure. Dig only when the soil is moist enough to form a loose ball in your fist, but dry enough to fall apart when you drop it. Use a spade or spading fork to gently turn the top 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) of soil, mixing in the organic matter from Step 4. In vegetable gardens and beds of annual flowers, turn the soil only once a year in the spring before you plant.
6. Pick your plants. Some people pore over catalogs for months; some people head to the garden center and buy what wows them. Either method works if you choose plants adapted to your climate, your soil, and the amount of sunlight in your garden. You can even surf the Internet for plants to purchase. Here are a few easy-to-grow plants for beginners:
Annual: Cosmos, marigolds, Impatiens, Geraniums, Calendula, sunflowers, and Zinnias
Perennials: Russian Sage, Lamb’s Ears, Black-eyed Susans, Purple Coneflowers, Phlox, pansies, and daylilies
Vegetables: lettuce, peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers
7. Put them in the ground. Some plants, such as pansies and kale, tolerate cold, so you can plant them in autumn or late winter. Tomatoes and most annual flowers, on the other hand, are touchy about cold, so don’t plant them until the danger of frost has passed in your area. Midspring and midautumn are good times to plant perennial flowers.
Some plants, such as lettuce and sunflowers, are easy to grow from seed. You can sow them directly in the garden. Be sure to read the seed packet for information about when to plant, how deep to plant, and how far apart to plant the seeds. If you’re an adventurous beginner, you can get a head start on the growing season by sowing seeds indoors before the last frost date. You can buy containers or flats designed especially for seedlings, as well as seed-starting soil mixes (available at garden centers). Follow seed-packet instructions, and place the containers on a sunny windowsill or under artificial lights if you don’t have window space. Be sure to keep the seeds and seedlings moist but not wet (or they may rot).
An easier method is to buy young plants, called set plants or transplants. Just dig a hole and plunk them in the ground.
8. Water. Seedlings should never dry out, so water daily while they are small. Taper off as the plants get larger. New transplants also need frequent watering—every other day or so—until their roots become established. After that, how often you need to water depends on your soil, how humid your climate is, and how often it rains. Plants are begging for water when they wilt slightly in the heat of the day. Water slowly and deeply, so the water soaks in instead of running off into the street. To minimize evaporation, water in the early morning.
9. Mulch. To help keep weeds out and water in, cover the soil with a couple of inches of mulch. All sorts of mulch are available, from pine needles to cocoa hulls to bark chips. For a vegetable garden or bed of annuals, choose a mulch that decomposes in a few months. For perennials, use a longer-lasting mulch, such as bark chips.
10. Keep it up. Your garden is on its way. Keep watering when needed, and pull weeds before they get big. Fertilize with a dry fertilizer about halfway through the season. If you use a liquid fertilizer, fertilize every month or so.
1. Get an idea. Is this going to be a vegetable garden? An herb garden? A flower garden? If you choose to grow flowers, do you want annuals, which you must replant each year but which give color most of the summer? Or do you prefer perennials, which have a shorter bloom time but come back year after year? You can mix any of the above—after all, it’s your garden.
2. Pick a place. Almost all vegetables and most flowers need about six hours of full sun each day. Spend a day in your chosen spot and watch how the sun moves across the space. It might receive more sun than you think. But don’t despair if your lot is largely sunless; many plants tolerate shade. Check plant tags or ask the staff at your local garden center to find out how much sun a plant requires.
3. Clear the ground. Get rid of the sod covering the area you plan to plant. If you want quick results, you can dig it out, but it’s easier to smother it with newspaper. A layer of five sheets is usually thick enough. Spread a 3-inch (7.5 cm) layer of compost (or combination of potting soil and topsoil) on the newspaper and wait. It’ll take about four months for the compost and paper to decompose.
If you don’t want to wait or if the area is covered with weeds, you’re better off digging the sod out.
4. Improve the soil. Invariably, soil needs a boost. The solution is simple: organic matter. Add a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of compost, decayed leaves, dry grass clippings, or old manure. If you dig soil, till the organic matter into the soil. If you decide not to dig or are working with an established bed you can’t dig, leave the organic matter on the surface and it will work its way into the soil in a few months.
5. Dig or don’t. Digging loosens the soil so roots can penetrate more easily. But digging when the soil is too wet or too dry can ruin its structure. Dig only when the soil is moist enough to form a loose ball in your fist, but dry enough to fall apart when you drop it. Use a spade or spading fork to gently turn the top 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) of soil, mixing in the organic matter from Step 4. In vegetable gardens and beds of annual flowers, turn the soil only once a year in the spring before you plant.
6. Pick your plants. Some people pore over catalogs for months; some people head to the garden center and buy what wows them. Either method works if you choose plants adapted to your climate, your soil, and the amount of sunlight in your garden. You can even surf the Internet for plants to purchase. Here are a few easy-to-grow plants for beginners:
Annual: Cosmos, marigolds, Impatiens, Geraniums, Calendula, sunflowers, and Zinnias
Perennials: Russian Sage, Lamb’s Ears, Black-eyed Susans, Purple Coneflowers, Phlox, pansies, and daylilies
Vegetables: lettuce, peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers
7. Put them in the ground. Some plants, such as pansies and kale, tolerate cold, so you can plant them in autumn or late winter. Tomatoes and most annual flowers, on the other hand, are touchy about cold, so don’t plant them until the danger of frost has passed in your area. Midspring and midautumn are good times to plant perennial flowers.
Some plants, such as lettuce and sunflowers, are easy to grow from seed. You can sow them directly in the garden. Be sure to read the seed packet for information about when to plant, how deep to plant, and how far apart to plant the seeds. If you’re an adventurous beginner, you can get a head start on the growing season by sowing seeds indoors before the last frost date. You can buy containers or flats designed especially for seedlings, as well as seed-starting soil mixes (available at garden centers). Follow seed-packet instructions, and place the containers on a sunny windowsill or under artificial lights if you don’t have window space. Be sure to keep the seeds and seedlings moist but not wet (or they may rot).
An easier method is to buy young plants, called set plants or transplants. Just dig a hole and plunk them in the ground.
8. Water. Seedlings should never dry out, so water daily while they are small. Taper off as the plants get larger. New transplants also need frequent watering—every other day or so—until their roots become established. After that, how often you need to water depends on your soil, how humid your climate is, and how often it rains. Plants are begging for water when they wilt slightly in the heat of the day. Water slowly and deeply, so the water soaks in instead of running off into the street. To minimize evaporation, water in the early morning.
9. Mulch. To help keep weeds out and water in, cover the soil with a couple of inches of mulch. All sorts of mulch are available, from pine needles to cocoa hulls to bark chips. For a vegetable garden or bed of annuals, choose a mulch that decomposes in a few months. For perennials, use a longer-lasting mulch, such as bark chips.
10. Keep it up. Your garden is on its way. Keep watering when needed, and pull weeds before they get big. Fertilize with a dry fertilizer about halfway through the season. If you use a liquid fertilizer, fertilize every month or so.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Spathiphyllum (commonly known as Peace Lilies) is a genus of about 40 species of flowering plants in the family Araceae, native to tropical regions of the Americas and southeastern Asia. They are a popular choice for offices and homes. Peace Lilies are vibrant and lovely, with verdant leaves that grace any indoor space with a touch of life. They’re also on NASA’s list of top air-cleaning plants. The really great news, though, is that peace lilies are easy to care for. With these tips, you can enjoy them for both their aesthetic and function for years to come. 
Light
Peace Lilies like indirect light and shade, making them ideal for indoor environments. They’re even known to do well in offices with fluorescent lights and no windows! South- or west-facing windows tend to be the best locations for Peace Lilies, providing the right mix of light. Your Peace Lily will tell you if it’s getting too much light. Yellow leaves indicate too much light, while brown streaks are a sign of scorching from direct sunlight. Move your Peace Lily if its leaves exhibit these signs.
Watering
Peace Lilies are more tolerant of under-watering than over-watering. Keep plants evenly moist by watering when soil feels dry to the touch. Take care not to over-water. If your tap water has a lot of chlorine, leave it out overnight to allow the chlorine to evaporate. Peace Lily leaves also enjoy a good misting, which you can do when you water throughout the summer.
Watering is another area in which your Peace Lily will communicate with you. If leaves begin to droop, it’s time to water and your plant won’t be any worse for the little bit of wear.
Make sure your Peace Lily’s pot has good drainage. If wilting occurs, check for soggy roots, which indicates root rot.
Fertilizing
While Peace Lilies can do fine with fertilization only once or twice a year, regular fertilization in spring and summer will encourage blooms. Peace Lilies are sensitive to chemical fertilizers, so use an organic general houseplant fertilizer at one-quarter to one-half the recommended strength.
Repotting and Propagating
Once roots begin to show above the soil, it’s time to repot your Peace Lily. This usually occurs about every year or two. Repot into a container that is about 2 inches (5 cm) bigger in diameter than the current pot.
Repotting is a good time to divide your plant. Crowns, areas where clusters of about two new leaves are growing, are a good place to divide your plant, but some people just separate roots anywhere to multiply their plant. Use soil from the old pot for the new plant so that it isn’t shocked. For smaller transplants, don’t use a pot that’s too big. Cozy roots encourage blooms.
Light
Peace Lilies like indirect light and shade, making them ideal for indoor environments. They’re even known to do well in offices with fluorescent lights and no windows! South- or west-facing windows tend to be the best locations for Peace Lilies, providing the right mix of light. Your Peace Lily will tell you if it’s getting too much light. Yellow leaves indicate too much light, while brown streaks are a sign of scorching from direct sunlight. Move your Peace Lily if its leaves exhibit these signs.
Watering
Peace Lilies are more tolerant of under-watering than over-watering. Keep plants evenly moist by watering when soil feels dry to the touch. Take care not to over-water. If your tap water has a lot of chlorine, leave it out overnight to allow the chlorine to evaporate. Peace Lily leaves also enjoy a good misting, which you can do when you water throughout the summer.
Watering is another area in which your Peace Lily will communicate with you. If leaves begin to droop, it’s time to water and your plant won’t be any worse for the little bit of wear.
Make sure your Peace Lily’s pot has good drainage. If wilting occurs, check for soggy roots, which indicates root rot.
Fertilizing
While Peace Lilies can do fine with fertilization only once or twice a year, regular fertilization in spring and summer will encourage blooms. Peace Lilies are sensitive to chemical fertilizers, so use an organic general houseplant fertilizer at one-quarter to one-half the recommended strength.
Repotting and Propagating
Once roots begin to show above the soil, it’s time to repot your Peace Lily. This usually occurs about every year or two. Repot into a container that is about 2 inches (5 cm) bigger in diameter than the current pot.
Repotting is a good time to divide your plant. Crowns, areas where clusters of about two new leaves are growing, are a good place to divide your plant, but some people just separate roots anywhere to multiply their plant. Use soil from the old pot for the new plant so that it isn’t shocked. For smaller transplants, don’t use a pot that’s too big. Cozy roots encourage blooms.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Calceolaria, commonly known as Pocketbook Plants, Pouch Flowers or Slipper Flowers is a genus of plants in the Calceolariaceae family. This genus consists of about 388 species of shrubs, lianas and herbs, and the geographical range extends from Patagonia to central Mexico, with its distribution center in Andean region.
Calceolaria’s nickname (Pocketbook Plant) is well chosen. The flowers on this annual plant have pouches at the bottom which resemble pocketbooks, purses or even slippers. Growing Pocketbook Plants isn’t very complicated as long as you remember that they like their environment cool and not too bright.
Growing Conditions and General Care
While this annual can be grown both indoors and out, the most popular use may be as a potted houseplant. Once you look into the native environment for this bright flower, you’ll know how to grow Pocketbook Plant. It comes from Central and South America in the cooler plains areas where water and bright sunlight aren’t so abundant. Calceolaria care works best when you try to imitate its native home.
Keep the plant near a bright window, but out of direct sunlight. If your only window is on a bright southern exposure, hang a sheer curtain between the plant and outdoors to filter the brightest rays. Northern windows and tables away from the light source are more hospitable for these plants.
Pocketbook Plant care includes carefully monitoring the water supply. These plants don’t do well with too much moisture on their roots. Give the plants a thorough watering, then let the pots drain in the sink for about 10 minutes. Allow the soil to dry out until the surface is dry before watering again.
Although pocketbook plant is a tender perennial, it’s grown as an annual. Once the flowers die off, you won’t be able to make a new batch appear. It’s better to simply enjoy these unusual flowers while they look good, then add them to the compost pile when they begin to dry up and wilt.
Although pocketbook plant is most often grown as a houseplant, it can be used as a bedding plant outdoors. This smaller plant can grow up to 10 inches (25 cm) tall, so place it near the front of the flower beds. Amend the soil with a good amount of compost to aid in drainage, and place the plants about a foot apart. Grow these plants early in the spring, when the night temperatures hover around 55 to 65 °F (13 to 18 °C). When the summer heat arrives, pull them and replace them with a more heat-resistant plant.
Propagation
Many different types are available as seeds, with gaudy color mixes being the norm. Sow seed in a peat based compost in late summer, and grow the young seedling on through until late autumn. The plants soon develop the rosette of foliage and will need space.
Pocketbook Plants can also be propagated with stem tip cuttings which should be taken in mid to late summer.
Calceolaria’s nickname (Pocketbook Plant) is well chosen. The flowers on this annual plant have pouches at the bottom which resemble pocketbooks, purses or even slippers. Growing Pocketbook Plants isn’t very complicated as long as you remember that they like their environment cool and not too bright.
Growing Conditions and General Care
While this annual can be grown both indoors and out, the most popular use may be as a potted houseplant. Once you look into the native environment for this bright flower, you’ll know how to grow Pocketbook Plant. It comes from Central and South America in the cooler plains areas where water and bright sunlight aren’t so abundant. Calceolaria care works best when you try to imitate its native home.
Keep the plant near a bright window, but out of direct sunlight. If your only window is on a bright southern exposure, hang a sheer curtain between the plant and outdoors to filter the brightest rays. Northern windows and tables away from the light source are more hospitable for these plants.
Pocketbook Plant care includes carefully monitoring the water supply. These plants don’t do well with too much moisture on their roots. Give the plants a thorough watering, then let the pots drain in the sink for about 10 minutes. Allow the soil to dry out until the surface is dry before watering again.
Although pocketbook plant is a tender perennial, it’s grown as an annual. Once the flowers die off, you won’t be able to make a new batch appear. It’s better to simply enjoy these unusual flowers while they look good, then add them to the compost pile when they begin to dry up and wilt.
Although pocketbook plant is most often grown as a houseplant, it can be used as a bedding plant outdoors. This smaller plant can grow up to 10 inches (25 cm) tall, so place it near the front of the flower beds. Amend the soil with a good amount of compost to aid in drainage, and place the plants about a foot apart. Grow these plants early in the spring, when the night temperatures hover around 55 to 65 °F (13 to 18 °C). When the summer heat arrives, pull them and replace them with a more heat-resistant plant.
Propagation
Many different types are available as seeds, with gaudy color mixes being the norm. Sow seed in a peat based compost in late summer, and grow the young seedling on through until late autumn. The plants soon develop the rosette of foliage and will need space.
Pocketbook Plants can also be propagated with stem tip cuttings which should be taken in mid to late summer.
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