文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Many gardeners have had trouble with nematodes attacking their plants. Maybe you’ve tried to grow carrots, but they came out knobby and twisted. Or maybe your potatoes were covered in warts and galls. If so, your garden may have a nematode problem. Read on to learn more about controlling nematodes with plants.
Using Plants for Nematode Control
Nematodes are tiny round worms that commonly live in soil, and many of them attack garden plants. These pests can damage the roots of numerous edible and ornamental plants, so many gardeners have looked for ways to control them. If you are one of those gardeners, you may have wondered: are there any plants that repel nematodes?
Some nematodes can be controlled using nematode-killing pesticides (nematicides), but these can be toxic and most are unavailable to home gardeners. Crop rotation can also reduce nematode infestations, but it is time consuming. Fortunately, scientists have identified a list of nematode repellent plants that can help combat these earth-dwelling pests. These include: Painted Daisy – kills nematodes when used as a green manure French Marigold – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Dahlia – repels nematodes Castor Bean – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Partridge Pea – reduces populations of peanut root knot nematode Rapeseed – certain varieties kill nematodes when used as a green manure Showy Crotalaria – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Velvet Bean – may repel several types of nematodes Controlling nematodes with plants is an effective, natural method and is definitely worth a try.
How to Use Nematode Repellent Plants
Of the list above, two of the best plants for nematode control are the painted daisy and French marigold. Both of these are not just nematode repellent plants, but they actually kill nematodes more efficiently. Painted daisy (Chrysanthemum coccineum) is useful for warding off nematode problems because it produces a botanical toxin that kills root nematodes. French marigold (Tagetes patula) produces a natural chemical that kills several types of nematodes, including the root-knot nematodes that attack carrots and many other vegetable plants. Scientists have found that Tangerine, a dwarf French marigold variety, is especially effective at combating nematodes in garden soil. The following varieties of French marigold are also effective: Bolero Bonita Mixed Goldie Gypsy Sunshine Petite Petite Harmony Petite Gold Scarlet Sophie Single Gold
If you have a nematode infestation, remove as many plant roots as possible when you clean up your garden in the fall. In winter and early spring, till and solarize the soil to reduce nematode populations.
In spring, plant one of one of the recommended varieties of French marigold (or another of the plants that repel nematodes) in solid patches or strips in the garden. Space the plants at seven inches apart. Let them grow for at least two months, then till the plants into the soil. Be sure to till the plants in or remove the flower heads of marigolds before they go to seed. Otherwise, they could become a weed in next year’s garden. To prevent nematodes from returning to the garden, keep the soil free of weeds until the next spring.
Using Plants for Nematode Control
Nematodes are tiny round worms that commonly live in soil, and many of them attack garden plants. These pests can damage the roots of numerous edible and ornamental plants, so many gardeners have looked for ways to control them. If you are one of those gardeners, you may have wondered: are there any plants that repel nematodes?
Some nematodes can be controlled using nematode-killing pesticides (nematicides), but these can be toxic and most are unavailable to home gardeners. Crop rotation can also reduce nematode infestations, but it is time consuming. Fortunately, scientists have identified a list of nematode repellent plants that can help combat these earth-dwelling pests. These include: Painted Daisy – kills nematodes when used as a green manure French Marigold – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Dahlia – repels nematodes Castor Bean – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Partridge Pea – reduces populations of peanut root knot nematode Rapeseed – certain varieties kill nematodes when used as a green manure Showy Crotalaria – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Velvet Bean – may repel several types of nematodes Controlling nematodes with plants is an effective, natural method and is definitely worth a try.
How to Use Nematode Repellent Plants
Of the list above, two of the best plants for nematode control are the painted daisy and French marigold. Both of these are not just nematode repellent plants, but they actually kill nematodes more efficiently. Painted daisy (Chrysanthemum coccineum) is useful for warding off nematode problems because it produces a botanical toxin that kills root nematodes. French marigold (Tagetes patula) produces a natural chemical that kills several types of nematodes, including the root-knot nematodes that attack carrots and many other vegetable plants. Scientists have found that Tangerine, a dwarf French marigold variety, is especially effective at combating nematodes in garden soil. The following varieties of French marigold are also effective: Bolero Bonita Mixed Goldie Gypsy Sunshine Petite Petite Harmony Petite Gold Scarlet Sophie Single Gold
If you have a nematode infestation, remove as many plant roots as possible when you clean up your garden in the fall. In winter and early spring, till and solarize the soil to reduce nematode populations.
In spring, plant one of one of the recommended varieties of French marigold (or another of the plants that repel nematodes) in solid patches or strips in the garden. Space the plants at seven inches apart. Let them grow for at least two months, then till the plants into the soil. Be sure to till the plants in or remove the flower heads of marigolds before they go to seed. Otherwise, they could become a weed in next year’s garden. To prevent nematodes from returning to the garden, keep the soil free of weeds until the next spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
With hundreds of ornamental host plants, scale is a common pest in the garden. Diaspididae scale is commonly known as hard scale and is a more host specific insect with breeding limitations. Coccid scale is commonly known as soft scale, and is more widespread. As it is the more common scale, this article will discuss soft scale on plants, as well as coccid scale control.
What are Coccid Scales?
Though it is sometimes confused with a plant disease or fungus, soft scale on plants is actually an insect infestation. Like vampires, these insects suck the sap from the vascular system of plants. The plant itself will yellow and wither; it may also grow distorted and stunted.
A sticky, scale-looking substance may be visible on the underside of leaves and stems. Gray mold oftentimes will grow over the top of the scale. When scale or the gray mold that tends to accompany it, covers too much of the plant, it will inhibit the plant’s ability to photosynthesize. Between draining the plant of its nutrient exchanging sap and interrupting its ability to photosynthesize, coccid soft scale can kill a plant.
So what are coccid scales, exactly? Tiny female coccid scale insects are carried on wind or crawl on a plant until they find a suitable feeding spot. They then begin to feed and become immobile. As they feed, they create a shell or scale-like shield over their body with a waxy substance that they produce.
When several of these scale covered insects are together on a plant, it can appear that the plant has reptile-like scales. While in its scale, the female coccid scale insect will lay eggs. One female can lay up to 2,000 eggs. They also produce a sticky honeydew that attracts ants and catches fungal spores, causing plants to also become infected by fungal diseases.
Treating Soft Scale Bugs
The most effective coccid soft scale insect control is using neem oil. Neem oil will treat insects and fungal diseases. Systemic insecticides are also very effective against scale insects because they feed on the plant sap. Other effective coccid scale control products are pyrethrum based insecticides, marathon, horticultural oil, and malathion.
What are Coccid Scales?
Though it is sometimes confused with a plant disease or fungus, soft scale on plants is actually an insect infestation. Like vampires, these insects suck the sap from the vascular system of plants. The plant itself will yellow and wither; it may also grow distorted and stunted.
A sticky, scale-looking substance may be visible on the underside of leaves and stems. Gray mold oftentimes will grow over the top of the scale. When scale or the gray mold that tends to accompany it, covers too much of the plant, it will inhibit the plant’s ability to photosynthesize. Between draining the plant of its nutrient exchanging sap and interrupting its ability to photosynthesize, coccid soft scale can kill a plant.
So what are coccid scales, exactly? Tiny female coccid scale insects are carried on wind or crawl on a plant until they find a suitable feeding spot. They then begin to feed and become immobile. As they feed, they create a shell or scale-like shield over their body with a waxy substance that they produce.
When several of these scale covered insects are together on a plant, it can appear that the plant has reptile-like scales. While in its scale, the female coccid scale insect will lay eggs. One female can lay up to 2,000 eggs. They also produce a sticky honeydew that attracts ants and catches fungal spores, causing plants to also become infected by fungal diseases.
Treating Soft Scale Bugs
The most effective coccid soft scale insect control is using neem oil. Neem oil will treat insects and fungal diseases. Systemic insecticides are also very effective against scale insects because they feed on the plant sap. Other effective coccid scale control products are pyrethrum based insecticides, marathon, horticultural oil, and malathion.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Lumps, bumps and weird cottony fluff on your plants are more than just some strange coincidence, they’re probably soft scale insects! Don’t worry, we have the answers to your burning soft scale questions.
What is Soft Scale?
Plants that are droopy, yellowing or have developed sticky spots and black mold on leaves can be really alarming to find in your landscape or garden. These are plants that look to be on the brink of immediate death, but things aren’t always that straightforward. If your plants are sagging and looking terrible, it may not be a terminal plant disease, but soft scale insects to blame.
Soft scale insects are relatively large sap-sucking insects, measuring a tenth to a quarter of an inch long (two to six millimeters), with a distinct protective covering firmly attached to their bodies. Some mimic their surroundings, others produce a waxy coating that can make them resemble fluffy insect casings. They come in a range of colors and sizes, but they all result in the same kinds of problems. Soft scale feed directly from the vascular systems of host plants, which can quickly result in a plant that looks like it’s not feeling so hot. Drought stress can speed up the plant’s decline, since it’s fighting these soft scale insects for liquids.
One of the most distinguishing features in determining soft scale versus armored scale infestations is the production of copious amounts of clear, sticky liquid called honeydew. Only the soft scale bugs produce this liquid, which tends to drip on leaves and objects below it. This sets up a dangerous cycle, because the sweet liquid attracts both ants and a non-pathogenic fungus called sooty mold. Often, ant infestations are among the first signs of soft scale. These smart, industrial insects have actually been known to use soft scale insects as a means of farming honeydew, just as they do with aphids. Ants will tend them lovingly and then harvest the fruits of their labor for the ant colony. Because soft scale can’t move, their ant partners will move them to more promising plants or to uninfested parts of the existing host, creating a huge problem for the plant owner.
How to Get Rid of Soft Scale
Destroying soft scale is a relatively easy process, except for those ants. If you’re seeing ants in the same plant as the scale bugs, you’ll have to get the ants under control at the same time that you treat the invaders. Otherwise, the ants will rush in to save the soft scale insects and move as many as possible to a new, safe location. Baiting and applying a sticky barrier to affected plants will rid you of the ants, making it easier to control the scale.
Neem or horticultural oil sprays are recommended to get the scale themselves under control. This way, the predators of scale insects are largely preserved and can help to keep more scale from invading. Always test foliage before spraying your entire plant with any sort of oil. Phytotoxicity can occur, though it is unlikely if your plant is well hydrated.
What is Soft Scale?
Plants that are droopy, yellowing or have developed sticky spots and black mold on leaves can be really alarming to find in your landscape or garden. These are plants that look to be on the brink of immediate death, but things aren’t always that straightforward. If your plants are sagging and looking terrible, it may not be a terminal plant disease, but soft scale insects to blame.
Soft scale insects are relatively large sap-sucking insects, measuring a tenth to a quarter of an inch long (two to six millimeters), with a distinct protective covering firmly attached to their bodies. Some mimic their surroundings, others produce a waxy coating that can make them resemble fluffy insect casings. They come in a range of colors and sizes, but they all result in the same kinds of problems. Soft scale feed directly from the vascular systems of host plants, which can quickly result in a plant that looks like it’s not feeling so hot. Drought stress can speed up the plant’s decline, since it’s fighting these soft scale insects for liquids.
One of the most distinguishing features in determining soft scale versus armored scale infestations is the production of copious amounts of clear, sticky liquid called honeydew. Only the soft scale bugs produce this liquid, which tends to drip on leaves and objects below it. This sets up a dangerous cycle, because the sweet liquid attracts both ants and a non-pathogenic fungus called sooty mold. Often, ant infestations are among the first signs of soft scale. These smart, industrial insects have actually been known to use soft scale insects as a means of farming honeydew, just as they do with aphids. Ants will tend them lovingly and then harvest the fruits of their labor for the ant colony. Because soft scale can’t move, their ant partners will move them to more promising plants or to uninfested parts of the existing host, creating a huge problem for the plant owner.
How to Get Rid of Soft Scale
Destroying soft scale is a relatively easy process, except for those ants. If you’re seeing ants in the same plant as the scale bugs, you’ll have to get the ants under control at the same time that you treat the invaders. Otherwise, the ants will rush in to save the soft scale insects and move as many as possible to a new, safe location. Baiting and applying a sticky barrier to affected plants will rid you of the ants, making it easier to control the scale.
Neem or horticultural oil sprays are recommended to get the scale themselves under control. This way, the predators of scale insects are largely preserved and can help to keep more scale from invading. Always test foliage before spraying your entire plant with any sort of oil. Phytotoxicity can occur, though it is unlikely if your plant is well hydrated.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Armored scale insects are hiding under your nose right now and you probably don’t even know it. These master mimics are everywhere, but you can learn how to detect and eliminate them from your plants in this article. Read on to learn more about these strange sap-sucking insects. What is Armored Scale? Of all the garden pests you’ll meet as you cultivate and love your garden, armored scale insects may be the most interesting and frustrating. If your plant has suddenly developed a lot of unusual bumps, lumps or things that look almost like they might be new growths in the wrong spots, armored scale is probably responsible.
Scale insects are tiny sap-sucking pests, about the same size as an aphid. Unlike aphids, though, scale insects hide under elaborate coverings meant to protect them from predators and the elements, as well as acting as cover for their eggs. In armored scale, these covers are waxy, hard, circular or rounded in shape and detached from their bodies. Females spend the bulk of their lives under these covers, eventually losing any obvious appendages and permanently affixing themselves to their host plant. Signs of armored scale are more subtle than soft scale, because armored scale don’t produce the sticky substance known as honeydew. This is because they consume plant juices differently.
Instead of focusing on locating the vascular system of host plants, armored scale rupture and destroy the cells they’re feeding on directly. The lower amount of available water eliminates the need for honeydew production as a byproduct of feeding. Even so, infected plants may suddenly appear weak or yellow dramatically when numbers climb. The most telling sign of armored versus soft scale are the hard coverings. If you lift one, you’ll find a small soft-bodied insect inside, whereas with soft scale, the covering is often part of their body. Armored scale also don’t draw ants or sooty mold since they don’t produce honeydew. How to Get Rid of Armored Scale Armored scale insects would be a breeze to eliminate if not for their thick outer coatings.
The insects themselves are quite vulnerable, so you don’t need to go in with a huge arsenal. Horticultural oil is the very best way to destroy armored scale while preserving the predators that will readily feed on their young during the mobile “crawler” stage. Ideally, timing your application with the emergence of crawlers from their mothers’ covers will eliminate an entire generation all at once.
Repeat sprays at five to six week intervals will knock the colony back, and persistence will destroy them entirely. Before applying horticultural oil, ensure that your plant is well hydrated and not heat stressed. Most plants won’t have a problem with horticultural oil mixed appropriately, but the odd bush or tree might experience phytotoxicity, so try a small spot first a few days ahead of when you plan to spray the whole plant.
Scale insects are tiny sap-sucking pests, about the same size as an aphid. Unlike aphids, though, scale insects hide under elaborate coverings meant to protect them from predators and the elements, as well as acting as cover for their eggs. In armored scale, these covers are waxy, hard, circular or rounded in shape and detached from their bodies. Females spend the bulk of their lives under these covers, eventually losing any obvious appendages and permanently affixing themselves to their host plant. Signs of armored scale are more subtle than soft scale, because armored scale don’t produce the sticky substance known as honeydew. This is because they consume plant juices differently.
Instead of focusing on locating the vascular system of host plants, armored scale rupture and destroy the cells they’re feeding on directly. The lower amount of available water eliminates the need for honeydew production as a byproduct of feeding. Even so, infected plants may suddenly appear weak or yellow dramatically when numbers climb. The most telling sign of armored versus soft scale are the hard coverings. If you lift one, you’ll find a small soft-bodied insect inside, whereas with soft scale, the covering is often part of their body. Armored scale also don’t draw ants or sooty mold since they don’t produce honeydew. How to Get Rid of Armored Scale Armored scale insects would be a breeze to eliminate if not for their thick outer coatings.
The insects themselves are quite vulnerable, so you don’t need to go in with a huge arsenal. Horticultural oil is the very best way to destroy armored scale while preserving the predators that will readily feed on their young during the mobile “crawler” stage. Ideally, timing your application with the emergence of crawlers from their mothers’ covers will eliminate an entire generation all at once.
Repeat sprays at five to six week intervals will knock the colony back, and persistence will destroy them entirely. Before applying horticultural oil, ensure that your plant is well hydrated and not heat stressed. Most plants won’t have a problem with horticultural oil mixed appropriately, but the odd bush or tree might experience phytotoxicity, so try a small spot first a few days ahead of when you plan to spray the whole plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cacti are low maintenance plants that generally thrive with neglect and do not require a lot of pampering. It might surprise you to find that cacti can and do need to be pruned now and then. Cactus pruning is not always necessary and when to prune a cactus plant will depend upon why you are trimming it. A few notes on how to cut back a cactus for purposes of propagation, rejuvenation and structural integrity will send you on the road to cleaning up your succulents properly.
Can You Trim a Cactus?
New succulent growers may ask, “Can you trim a cactus?” Most cacti really don’t need any form of shaping unless they have a great huge limb that looks ready to tip the plant over. The major reasons for trimming cactus are to remove parts to root for new plants, remove offsets or pups for the same reason, reinvigorate a plant that has gotten too tall or too leggy, and to take off damaged material.
Cacti come in a wide range of forms. Cactus pruning can enhance these forms while preventing overcrowding, which can increase the chance of disease, mildew and unhealthy plants. The Opuntias have pads that serve as leaves and these are easy to remove and can be used to start new plants. Columnar plants, like Totem Pole Cacti or Organ Pipe Cacti, may simply get too tall or spindly and require a judicious beheading to force branching or simply thicker stems. Still other cacti will produce flower stalks which are persistent and become ugly when dead. Removal of these will restore the beauty of the plant.
Trimming cactus has a variety of purposes, but the good news is that you can use many of the parts you remove to start new plants.
How to Cut Back a Cactus
The “how” of cutting back a cactus answers like a bad joke. The simple answer is, very carefully. Most cacti have some type of spine or prickle which can be painful to encounter. Use thick gloves and wear long pants and sleeves for the bigger garden specimens.
The tool will depend upon the size of the plant, but most will succumb to pruners. Only the largest will require a saw. As with all pruning, make sure the tool used is sharp and clean to avoid injuring the plant and decrease the chance of disease.
Remove limbs at the branch point but be careful not to cut into the main stem. Pads or leaves may just snap off or you can use pruners to remove them.
For a big job like cutting back a columnar specimen, use a saw and remove the main trunk at the point at which you would like to see branching or at the height you require the plant. Try to remove the stem at a growth point.
What to Do With Pruned Off Parts
Now for the fun part. Almost all the material you remove is salvageable except for diseased or dead stems and leaves.
Pads will root if laid on top of soil and develop into a new plant of the same species.
Cut stems and trunks should be allowed to callus at the end for several days and then can be planted to create new cactus.
Any offsets or pups that you cut away from the base of a specimen are new plants in their own right and should be potted up immediately.
Dead flower stalks and leaves are compost, but some varieties of cactus produce leaves on the flower stem which can be treated the same way as the pads of other species. Most cactus parts will start rooting within a month.
Once you restore your initial cactus to its glory, you will have the pleasure of making more of the spectacular plant and can increase your collection or give them away to family and friends.
Can You Trim a Cactus?
New succulent growers may ask, “Can you trim a cactus?” Most cacti really don’t need any form of shaping unless they have a great huge limb that looks ready to tip the plant over. The major reasons for trimming cactus are to remove parts to root for new plants, remove offsets or pups for the same reason, reinvigorate a plant that has gotten too tall or too leggy, and to take off damaged material.
Cacti come in a wide range of forms. Cactus pruning can enhance these forms while preventing overcrowding, which can increase the chance of disease, mildew and unhealthy plants. The Opuntias have pads that serve as leaves and these are easy to remove and can be used to start new plants. Columnar plants, like Totem Pole Cacti or Organ Pipe Cacti, may simply get too tall or spindly and require a judicious beheading to force branching or simply thicker stems. Still other cacti will produce flower stalks which are persistent and become ugly when dead. Removal of these will restore the beauty of the plant.
Trimming cactus has a variety of purposes, but the good news is that you can use many of the parts you remove to start new plants.
How to Cut Back a Cactus
The “how” of cutting back a cactus answers like a bad joke. The simple answer is, very carefully. Most cacti have some type of spine or prickle which can be painful to encounter. Use thick gloves and wear long pants and sleeves for the bigger garden specimens.
The tool will depend upon the size of the plant, but most will succumb to pruners. Only the largest will require a saw. As with all pruning, make sure the tool used is sharp and clean to avoid injuring the plant and decrease the chance of disease.
Remove limbs at the branch point but be careful not to cut into the main stem. Pads or leaves may just snap off or you can use pruners to remove them.
For a big job like cutting back a columnar specimen, use a saw and remove the main trunk at the point at which you would like to see branching or at the height you require the plant. Try to remove the stem at a growth point.
What to Do With Pruned Off Parts
Now for the fun part. Almost all the material you remove is salvageable except for diseased or dead stems and leaves.
Pads will root if laid on top of soil and develop into a new plant of the same species.
Cut stems and trunks should be allowed to callus at the end for several days and then can be planted to create new cactus.
Any offsets or pups that you cut away from the base of a specimen are new plants in their own right and should be potted up immediately.
Dead flower stalks and leaves are compost, but some varieties of cactus produce leaves on the flower stem which can be treated the same way as the pads of other species. Most cactus parts will start rooting within a month.
Once you restore your initial cactus to its glory, you will have the pleasure of making more of the spectacular plant and can increase your collection or give them away to family and friends.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A genus of plants native to the Canary Islands, Aeoniums have leaf rosettes at branch ends that look like large flowers. Most Aeoniums form a small shrub or small tree-like plant, but some don’t branch. There are about 35 species as well as hybrid cultivars.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species such as Dinner Plate Plant (Aeonium tabuliforme), which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Aeoniums are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Stem Cuttings
Clean a sharp pruning shears by dipping it in rubbing alcohol.
Decide how long a stem cutting to take; for tree-like forms with bare stems it may be 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) long, and for small shrub-like forms it could be 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) or shorter. Cut off the piece of stem containing the leaf rosette with the pruning shears.
Allow the end of the cutting to heal in a shaded place for at least three days, longer if the stem is thick and succulent.
Fill a clean nursery container that has drainage holes with a mixture of half cactus and succulent potting mix and half perlite, well mixed and slightly moistened. Use a pot just big enough to contain the cutting.
Put the cutting into the rooting medium, burying just enough of it to hold the cutting upright. Put the cutting in bright indirect light, watering it lightly once a week.
Resume regular watering when the Aeonium develops roots. Water thoroughly, then let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again.
Seeds
Collect seeds after the Aeonium has finished blooming. Put them in a paper bag and allow them to dry.
Fill a shallow clean nursery flat with the same mixture you used for rooting the cuttings.
Sow the seeds on top of the mix, scattering them evenly. Cover them with twice their thickness of the potting mix. Water the flat well.
Put the flat in bright indirect light and cover it with plastic wrap. Keep the potting mix moist until germination occurs. Remove the plastic wrap when germination starts.
Prick out individual seedlings when they have reached 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Give each seedling its own 2-inch (5 cm) nursery pot, transferring it to just the next bigger pot size as the plant grows. Keep the soil level the same so the flat plant isn’t buried.
Things You Will Need
Pruning shears
Rubbing alcohol
Nursery containers
Cactus and succulent potting mix
Perlite
Nursery flat
Plastic wrap
Tip
Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species such as Dinner Plate Plant (Aeonium tabuliforme), which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Aeoniums are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Stem Cuttings
Clean a sharp pruning shears by dipping it in rubbing alcohol.
Decide how long a stem cutting to take; for tree-like forms with bare stems it may be 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) long, and for small shrub-like forms it could be 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) or shorter. Cut off the piece of stem containing the leaf rosette with the pruning shears.
Allow the end of the cutting to heal in a shaded place for at least three days, longer if the stem is thick and succulent.
Fill a clean nursery container that has drainage holes with a mixture of half cactus and succulent potting mix and half perlite, well mixed and slightly moistened. Use a pot just big enough to contain the cutting.
Put the cutting into the rooting medium, burying just enough of it to hold the cutting upright. Put the cutting in bright indirect light, watering it lightly once a week.
Resume regular watering when the Aeonium develops roots. Water thoroughly, then let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again.
Seeds
Collect seeds after the Aeonium has finished blooming. Put them in a paper bag and allow them to dry.
Fill a shallow clean nursery flat with the same mixture you used for rooting the cuttings.
Sow the seeds on top of the mix, scattering them evenly. Cover them with twice their thickness of the potting mix. Water the flat well.
Put the flat in bright indirect light and cover it with plastic wrap. Keep the potting mix moist until germination occurs. Remove the plastic wrap when germination starts.
Prick out individual seedlings when they have reached 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Give each seedling its own 2-inch (5 cm) nursery pot, transferring it to just the next bigger pot size as the plant grows. Keep the soil level the same so the flat plant isn’t buried.
Things You Will Need
Pruning shears
Rubbing alcohol
Nursery containers
Cactus and succulent potting mix
Perlite
Nursery flat
Plastic wrap
Tip
Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulent plants are nick named “Fat Plants” because they store water in their leaves, roots, or stems. The stored water makes these plants appear fleshy and swollen; their leaves plump and firm with the stored water.
The best known succulents are cacti because nearly all cacti are classified as succulent plants; storing water within their flesh. Most cacti are succulents, however, not every succulent is a cactus. Succulents make beautiful houseplants and are extremely desirable plants to propagate. This article will walk you through three ways to propagate succulent plants, allowing you to multiply your succulent population.
Propagation Using Cuttings
Propagating a new plant by using a cutting from a mother plant creates a new specimen that is genetically identical to the plant from which it was taken. Successfully rooted cuttings are therefore called “clones” because they are literally a clone of their mother plants.
Many species of succulents can be divided and propagated from pieces cut from the stem of the mother plant with a sterile razor blade. The best place to take a cutting is at a stem node where the leaves or buds join the main stem.
The cutting should be dipped into rooting hormone before it is placed into nutrient rich potting soil. When using rooting hormone, remember that less is more. You do not want to saturate the cutting; you merely want to coat the cutting with a thin layer of hormone to encourage growth.
Propagation by Division
The method of division is well suited for succulents that create dense and thick root balls. These plants grow thick mats of tuberous roots that may be divided and transformed into several separate plants.
The plant must be removed from its pot and all of the soil around the root ball should be removed; it is nearly impossible to remove all of the soil so just try to get as much as you can. Once cleaned of dirt, you can use a sterilized knife or razor blade to divide the root mass into separate plants. Foliage will sprout from the divided root mass after the roots have stabilized themselves in the grow medium.
Propagation with Offsets
The majority of succulent species will produce small plants at the base of the parent plant. More clearly put, an established and healthy parent plant will generate babies which will form and grow at the base of the original succulent. These babies are called offsets.
These offsets can be carefully removed from the parent plant after they have grown at least two or three weeks. Removing offsets from the parent plant is beneficial to its growth because it redirects energy from the offset back to the parent plant. Most cacti produce offsets as does the succulent plant Hens and Chickens as well as most species of Aloe.
The best known succulents are cacti because nearly all cacti are classified as succulent plants; storing water within their flesh. Most cacti are succulents, however, not every succulent is a cactus. Succulents make beautiful houseplants and are extremely desirable plants to propagate. This article will walk you through three ways to propagate succulent plants, allowing you to multiply your succulent population.
Propagation Using Cuttings
Propagating a new plant by using a cutting from a mother plant creates a new specimen that is genetically identical to the plant from which it was taken. Successfully rooted cuttings are therefore called “clones” because they are literally a clone of their mother plants.
Many species of succulents can be divided and propagated from pieces cut from the stem of the mother plant with a sterile razor blade. The best place to take a cutting is at a stem node where the leaves or buds join the main stem.
The cutting should be dipped into rooting hormone before it is placed into nutrient rich potting soil. When using rooting hormone, remember that less is more. You do not want to saturate the cutting; you merely want to coat the cutting with a thin layer of hormone to encourage growth.
Propagation by Division
The method of division is well suited for succulents that create dense and thick root balls. These plants grow thick mats of tuberous roots that may be divided and transformed into several separate plants.
The plant must be removed from its pot and all of the soil around the root ball should be removed; it is nearly impossible to remove all of the soil so just try to get as much as you can. Once cleaned of dirt, you can use a sterilized knife or razor blade to divide the root mass into separate plants. Foliage will sprout from the divided root mass after the roots have stabilized themselves in the grow medium.
Propagation with Offsets
The majority of succulent species will produce small plants at the base of the parent plant. More clearly put, an established and healthy parent plant will generate babies which will form and grow at the base of the original succulent. These babies are called offsets.
These offsets can be carefully removed from the parent plant after they have grown at least two or three weeks. Removing offsets from the parent plant is beneficial to its growth because it redirects energy from the offset back to the parent plant. Most cacti produce offsets as does the succulent plant Hens and Chickens as well as most species of Aloe.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Some succulents make your propagation work easier by forming new plants mostly on their own. Some leaf succulents develop roots on their stems while still attached to the mother plant, and sometimes leaves fall off succulents and root by themselves. Still others develop new rooted plantlets at their bases. For such plants, minimal effort is needed on the part of the gardener.
Root-Forming Stems
Many members of the Crassulaceae family grow prominent aerial roots along branch stems. If the branch bends over sufficiently to contact the soil, the branch roots into the ground at the point of contact. All you need to do is to cut the connection with the mother plant, dig the new plantlet up and give it a pot of its own. Some examples are Red Echeveria (Echeveria harmsii), Crinkle Leaf Plant (Adromischus cristatus), Pinwheel Plant (Aeonium haworthii) and many Kalanchoes. These plants all grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11 and can be grown as houseplants anywhere.
Leaf Propagation
Another characteristic of many Crassulaceae family plants is the ability to grow an entire new plant from one leaf. Jelly Bean Plant (Sedum rubrotinctum) grows about 6 inches (15 cm) tall with sprawling branches that root as they go. Leaves are plump, reddish-green and the shape of a jelly bean. They turn bright red in winter. If a leaf falls from the plant, it grows a new plant from its basal end. Jade plant (Crassula ovata) does the same thing. Mother-of-millions (Kalanchoe x houghtonii) produces plantlets along the leaf margins, each of which grows into a new plant. It is so successful that in areas of Australia where it is hardy, it can become a noxious weed. These three plants are hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11.
Division
Succulent plants that form basal rosettes like Aloe and Haworthia produce new plants from the base of the mother plant. For a while, the plant remains attached to the parent plant, but as new offsets form, the outer plantlets, already with roots of their own, become disconnected from the parent. You can periodically unpot the plant, remove these independent little offsets and give them a pot of their own. Aloes grow in USDA zones 9 through 11, depending on the species, and Haworthias are hardy in USDA zone 11.
Bulbils and Tubers
Pregnant Onion Plant (Ornithogalum caudatum), a member of the Lily family, is a stem succulent that produces a large, pale-green above-ground bulb with a papery white covering. When the plant is 2 to 3 years old, it starts to produce little bulbils here and there on the bulb under the papery covering. They eventually get big enough to break through the covering and can fall to the ground, growing roots and forming a new plant. You can also break them off when they are growing their own leaves and put them on potting soil to root. Pregnant Onion is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii) forms little round tubers along its stems. Lay a stem with tubers along potting soil, and the tubers will root into the soil. Disconnect the rooted stem from the mother plant to make an independent plant. String of Hearts is hardy in USDA zone 10.
Root-Forming Stems
Many members of the Crassulaceae family grow prominent aerial roots along branch stems. If the branch bends over sufficiently to contact the soil, the branch roots into the ground at the point of contact. All you need to do is to cut the connection with the mother plant, dig the new plantlet up and give it a pot of its own. Some examples are Red Echeveria (Echeveria harmsii), Crinkle Leaf Plant (Adromischus cristatus), Pinwheel Plant (Aeonium haworthii) and many Kalanchoes. These plants all grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11 and can be grown as houseplants anywhere.
Leaf Propagation
Another characteristic of many Crassulaceae family plants is the ability to grow an entire new plant from one leaf. Jelly Bean Plant (Sedum rubrotinctum) grows about 6 inches (15 cm) tall with sprawling branches that root as they go. Leaves are plump, reddish-green and the shape of a jelly bean. They turn bright red in winter. If a leaf falls from the plant, it grows a new plant from its basal end. Jade plant (Crassula ovata) does the same thing. Mother-of-millions (Kalanchoe x houghtonii) produces plantlets along the leaf margins, each of which grows into a new plant. It is so successful that in areas of Australia where it is hardy, it can become a noxious weed. These three plants are hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11.
Division
Succulent plants that form basal rosettes like Aloe and Haworthia produce new plants from the base of the mother plant. For a while, the plant remains attached to the parent plant, but as new offsets form, the outer plantlets, already with roots of their own, become disconnected from the parent. You can periodically unpot the plant, remove these independent little offsets and give them a pot of their own. Aloes grow in USDA zones 9 through 11, depending on the species, and Haworthias are hardy in USDA zone 11.
Bulbils and Tubers
Pregnant Onion Plant (Ornithogalum caudatum), a member of the Lily family, is a stem succulent that produces a large, pale-green above-ground bulb with a papery white covering. When the plant is 2 to 3 years old, it starts to produce little bulbils here and there on the bulb under the papery covering. They eventually get big enough to break through the covering and can fall to the ground, growing roots and forming a new plant. You can also break them off when they are growing their own leaves and put them on potting soil to root. Pregnant Onion is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii) forms little round tubers along its stems. Lay a stem with tubers along potting soil, and the tubers will root into the soil. Disconnect the rooted stem from the mother plant to make an independent plant. String of Hearts is hardy in USDA zone 10.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Adenium is a genus of flowering plants that originate from Africa. This genus contains approximately five species, although the genus name typically refers to Adenium obesum unless otherwise specified.
This plant is a small succulent shrub that produces red and white flowers up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Adenium can grow outside in warm climates; it’s also a houseplant in colder climates. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating Adenium.
Things You’ll Need
Gardening trowel, planting pot, perlite, peat moss, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and sand.
Instructions
Obtain an Adenium cutting from a nursery. The nursery typically takes a 5-inch (12.5 cm) cutting from the end of a living stem and dips the cut end in a rooting hormone.
Fill a medium-size planting pot with a mixture of two parts sand, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. Place the cut end of the Adenium cutting about 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the soil medium. Water the cutting immediately.
Water the Adenium cutting every three days. The cutting should take root in two to six weeks. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. Add a slow-release fertilizer in early summer and early fall. Adenium should achieve its adult size within three years.
Keep Adenium outside in full sun when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) or higher. Move the plant to a southern windowsill in cooler weather. Adenium can be killed by prolonged temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) or colder.
This plant is a small succulent shrub that produces red and white flowers up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Adenium can grow outside in warm climates; it’s also a houseplant in colder climates. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating Adenium.
Things You’ll Need
Gardening trowel, planting pot, perlite, peat moss, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and sand.
Instructions
Obtain an Adenium cutting from a nursery. The nursery typically takes a 5-inch (12.5 cm) cutting from the end of a living stem and dips the cut end in a rooting hormone.
Fill a medium-size planting pot with a mixture of two parts sand, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. Place the cut end of the Adenium cutting about 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the soil medium. Water the cutting immediately.
Water the Adenium cutting every three days. The cutting should take root in two to six weeks. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. Add a slow-release fertilizer in early summer and early fall. Adenium should achieve its adult size within three years.
Keep Adenium outside in full sun when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) or higher. Move the plant to a southern windowsill in cooler weather. Adenium can be killed by prolonged temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) or colder.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cotyledon orbiculata, also known as Pig’s Ear Plant, sometimes grow in an expansive pattern, which can impede on other plants. While they don’t take up too much water, they can still steal sunlight and root space for your other flora in your arid garden. You may just want to divide your Pig’s Ear because you want to have more of them. Either way, with the right tools and environment, you can get clippings to grow so you can have multiple Cotyledons in your possession.
Step 1 – Divide Cutting
When you divide a Cotyledon, you’re simply taking a branch off. Succulents don’t like metal cutting them. It’s best to snap your cutting off of the plant with your own two fingers. This minimizes the wound in the succulent branch, which should be firm, but slightly spongy when you pinch it. It would be like pinching an artery to slow the flow of blood; so it is with the sap in your Pig’s Ear stems. Make sure you wash your hands! You don’t want to cause infection to your plant because of some dirt on your fingers.
Find the appropriate stem, which should have at least 2 inches (5 cm) of stem length and at least 1 or 2 nodes of leaves on it. Pinch it, and break it off.
Step 2 – Get it to Root
Now you have to get your cutting to root. First, dip your cutting stem-end first in rooting hormone, enough to coat the part that was broken off of the plant.
Next, wet your paper towel sheets (about 3 of them) in your warm water, and wring out some of the water—you want them just one step above damp. You don’t want them to be wet enough to cause rot.
Wrap your paper towel around the stem and lay it on a plate, but try to keep the leaves dry. Put it in a warm, sunny spot, keep the paper towel clean and change it out as necessary, repeating the wetting and wrapping process whenever you change the paper towel. Keep the paper towel damp, keep your cutting in the sun as much as possible, and in about 3 to 4 weeks, you should have a rooted cutting.
Step 3 – Plant Cotyledon
Now all you have to do is pot or plant your Cotyledon orbiculata. Do this by putting it in very well drained soil, which is made from cactus mix with a handful of pea gravel. Mix the two together, and make a well in the center using 2 or 3 of your fingers. You only want the hole as deep as the root is long, no longer. Gently place the rooted Pig’s Ear plant into the hole, and pat the soil around it. Mist the soil with a little water, keeping it sparing, and if you want to fertilize the soil, you can use an organic cactus-mix compost to do that. Just follow the directions on the package.
Step 4 – Take Care
You’re finished with the planting part, but that’s only half the story. You have to take care of it and ensure it grows into a healthy adult plant. Water it sparingly now, maybe once a week with a misting bottle right around the base of the plant. Keep your Cotyledon in full sun, or at least partial sun, and it should flourish for you with no problem.
That’s it, you’re done. You’ve got a brand new plant exactly like the parent plant, and you can put it in any sunny spot you please.
Step 1 – Divide Cutting
When you divide a Cotyledon, you’re simply taking a branch off. Succulents don’t like metal cutting them. It’s best to snap your cutting off of the plant with your own two fingers. This minimizes the wound in the succulent branch, which should be firm, but slightly spongy when you pinch it. It would be like pinching an artery to slow the flow of blood; so it is with the sap in your Pig’s Ear stems. Make sure you wash your hands! You don’t want to cause infection to your plant because of some dirt on your fingers.
Find the appropriate stem, which should have at least 2 inches (5 cm) of stem length and at least 1 or 2 nodes of leaves on it. Pinch it, and break it off.
Step 2 – Get it to Root
Now you have to get your cutting to root. First, dip your cutting stem-end first in rooting hormone, enough to coat the part that was broken off of the plant.
Next, wet your paper towel sheets (about 3 of them) in your warm water, and wring out some of the water—you want them just one step above damp. You don’t want them to be wet enough to cause rot.
Wrap your paper towel around the stem and lay it on a plate, but try to keep the leaves dry. Put it in a warm, sunny spot, keep the paper towel clean and change it out as necessary, repeating the wetting and wrapping process whenever you change the paper towel. Keep the paper towel damp, keep your cutting in the sun as much as possible, and in about 3 to 4 weeks, you should have a rooted cutting.
Step 3 – Plant Cotyledon
Now all you have to do is pot or plant your Cotyledon orbiculata. Do this by putting it in very well drained soil, which is made from cactus mix with a handful of pea gravel. Mix the two together, and make a well in the center using 2 or 3 of your fingers. You only want the hole as deep as the root is long, no longer. Gently place the rooted Pig’s Ear plant into the hole, and pat the soil around it. Mist the soil with a little water, keeping it sparing, and if you want to fertilize the soil, you can use an organic cactus-mix compost to do that. Just follow the directions on the package.
Step 4 – Take Care
You’re finished with the planting part, but that’s only half the story. You have to take care of it and ensure it grows into a healthy adult plant. Water it sparingly now, maybe once a week with a misting bottle right around the base of the plant. Keep your Cotyledon in full sun, or at least partial sun, and it should flourish for you with no problem.
That’s it, you’re done. You’ve got a brand new plant exactly like the parent plant, and you can put it in any sunny spot you please.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents are a favorite group of plants for many indoor gardeners. Succulents and cacti are part of the same group of plants. They have the advantage of growing slowly, requiring minimum care and not outgrowing their locations rapidly. They are simple plants; they require direct sun, well-draining soil and rarely, if ever, need to be fertilized. Sandy soils are best. It is possible to purchase cactus mixes that are sandy with a bit of gravel. A great deal of organic matter is not necessary. Watering is done occasionally. When you think of the origin of these plants, a hot, dry climate with lean soils and not a great deal of rainfall give you the framework of what they expect.
Succulents can be propagated in several ways. It is unusual for them to bloom and then produce viable seeds. The usual way is called vegetative propagation. It is essentially creating a clone from the original plant.
Division or Separation
Many succulents multiply themselves through division, but some cacti will have small plants appear along the ribs or leaf edges of the plant. When the plantlets are big enough to handle easily, they can be removed.
With division of other succulents, little plants come up surrounding the parent plant when it is mature. Eventually, more little plants come up and surround the larger surrounding plants and the container is filled. The plant and soil can be taken from the pot and the small plants gently removed. Water the plant well before taking it out of the container so more soil will adhere to the roots. There needs to be roots on the small plants for them to grow. If they are without roots, it may take a long time for roots to form. Pot the little ones in containers. If the little plants are without roots or they broke off, see the information below on callusing.
Cuttings and Callusing
A few succulents can be propagated by taking cuttings off the original plant. Sometimes it is because the plant has been damaged or a misplaced elbow and an unceremonious freefall to the floor. Unfortunately, the broken part will not repair and grow again, but the broken segment can be used to generate another plant. The important part is that the broken piece cannot be potted up immediately. It needs a period of time to dry or “callus.”
If the freshly cut piece comes in contact with damp soil, it will rot. Let the cuttings sit for a few days or longer for big pieces. After a period of time, the damp, broken area forms a tough skin or callus over the tissue. The callused plant part can be placed in slightly damp soil. Embed the piece very shallowly. If it is placed too deeply, it will not grow. It may be necessary to support the small plant by having it lean on a craft stick or tongue depressor or against the side of the container. It often takes many months for succulents to form roots. Do not place small plants on a cold window sill or close to a cold window because it will take even longer to grow roots. If a full grown leaf or branch is broken off a succulent like Haworthia or Euphorbia after callusing, it could grow roots. However, if the leaf is broken off Aloe vera, it will not.
There are enough differences in the world of succulents that one size or one rule does not fit all. Smart Gardeners are discovering this continually when learning about plants. Invite a succulent home. They make mannerly and attractive houseguests.
Succulents can be propagated in several ways. It is unusual for them to bloom and then produce viable seeds. The usual way is called vegetative propagation. It is essentially creating a clone from the original plant.
Division or Separation
Many succulents multiply themselves through division, but some cacti will have small plants appear along the ribs or leaf edges of the plant. When the plantlets are big enough to handle easily, they can be removed.
With division of other succulents, little plants come up surrounding the parent plant when it is mature. Eventually, more little plants come up and surround the larger surrounding plants and the container is filled. The plant and soil can be taken from the pot and the small plants gently removed. Water the plant well before taking it out of the container so more soil will adhere to the roots. There needs to be roots on the small plants for them to grow. If they are without roots, it may take a long time for roots to form. Pot the little ones in containers. If the little plants are without roots or they broke off, see the information below on callusing.
Cuttings and Callusing
A few succulents can be propagated by taking cuttings off the original plant. Sometimes it is because the plant has been damaged or a misplaced elbow and an unceremonious freefall to the floor. Unfortunately, the broken part will not repair and grow again, but the broken segment can be used to generate another plant. The important part is that the broken piece cannot be potted up immediately. It needs a period of time to dry or “callus.”
If the freshly cut piece comes in contact with damp soil, it will rot. Let the cuttings sit for a few days or longer for big pieces. After a period of time, the damp, broken area forms a tough skin or callus over the tissue. The callused plant part can be placed in slightly damp soil. Embed the piece very shallowly. If it is placed too deeply, it will not grow. It may be necessary to support the small plant by having it lean on a craft stick or tongue depressor or against the side of the container. It often takes many months for succulents to form roots. Do not place small plants on a cold window sill or close to a cold window because it will take even longer to grow roots. If a full grown leaf or branch is broken off a succulent like Haworthia or Euphorbia after callusing, it could grow roots. However, if the leaf is broken off Aloe vera, it will not.
There are enough differences in the world of succulents that one size or one rule does not fit all. Smart Gardeners are discovering this continually when learning about plants. Invite a succulent home. They make mannerly and attractive houseguests.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cacti and succulents are the perfect choice if you’re looking for indoor plants that almost look after themselves.
Most cacti and succulents can be easily propagated from stem or leaf cuttings, as explained below. For those cacti whose stems are formed of segments (e.g. Prickly Pears, Christmas Cacti), always remove whole segments as cuttings – don’t split segments in half.
Succulents that form clumps, such as Aloes, Haworthias and Agaves, should be divided by simply taking the plant out of its pot and splitting the rootball. Cacti that form numerous heads, such as many Mammillaria and Echinopsis can be divided, or cut off individual heads and use them as cuttings.
How to Do It
1. Choose a healthy piece of stem at least 4 inches (10 cm) long and cut it off cleanly with snips. Use tongs when handling spiny cacti. For plants without stems, remove whole leaves by hand (don’t cut them off). Sit cuttings on a window sill and leave them until the cut surfaces have healed over.
2. Fill a 2.7 or 3.5 inches (7 or 9 cm) pot with cactus potting soil, then insert the base of each cutting to a depth of about 0.8 inch (2 cm), or deep enough that it stands upwards.
3. Water liberally, then place the pot on a warm windowsill, preferably not in direct sunlight. Do not place cactus or succulent cuttings in a propagator or cover them with a plastic bag.
4. Keep an eye on the cutting and water when the compost feels dry. Most cactus and succulent cuttings will root within a month, but it may take longer for new growth to appear.
Most cacti and succulents can be easily propagated from stem or leaf cuttings, as explained below. For those cacti whose stems are formed of segments (e.g. Prickly Pears, Christmas Cacti), always remove whole segments as cuttings – don’t split segments in half.
Succulents that form clumps, such as Aloes, Haworthias and Agaves, should be divided by simply taking the plant out of its pot and splitting the rootball. Cacti that form numerous heads, such as many Mammillaria and Echinopsis can be divided, or cut off individual heads and use them as cuttings.
How to Do It
1. Choose a healthy piece of stem at least 4 inches (10 cm) long and cut it off cleanly with snips. Use tongs when handling spiny cacti. For plants without stems, remove whole leaves by hand (don’t cut them off). Sit cuttings on a window sill and leave them until the cut surfaces have healed over.
2. Fill a 2.7 or 3.5 inches (7 or 9 cm) pot with cactus potting soil, then insert the base of each cutting to a depth of about 0.8 inch (2 cm), or deep enough that it stands upwards.
3. Water liberally, then place the pot on a warm windowsill, preferably not in direct sunlight. Do not place cactus or succulent cuttings in a propagator or cover them with a plastic bag.
4. Keep an eye on the cutting and water when the compost feels dry. Most cactus and succulent cuttings will root within a month, but it may take longer for new growth to appear.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Gardening can be expensive when you start buying lots of plants and pots. What if you could double, triple, even quadruple the number of plants you currently have without spending a dime? If you have a little bit of time on your hands, along with a lot of patience, you can do just that. Let’s dig into a propagation of cacti and succulents!
Instructions
1. Propagation is the process of creating new plants from a variety of sources. This could be from seeds, bulbs, cuttings or other parts of the plant. Cacti and succulents are very easy to propagate. You can take pups from certain species, a stem cutting, or even root new plants from just one leaf!
2. Echeveria, along with other succulents that form rosettes, are a great example of plants that can easily benefit from beheading. If you ever notice your Echeveria with a gangly, long stem and a beautiful rosette on top, it could benefit from beheading — especially if it seems to be slow growing or not producing as many leaves. Use a sharp sterilized knife to cut the top part of the rosette off, leaving some of the stem on it. Let the cutting sit for a few days until it forms a callous on the bottom of the stem. This is a very important step, or you risk rotted stems or leaves.
3. Once the cutting forms a callus, you can pot it in a container where it will form new roots and become a new plant. The remaining part of the stem can also form tiny plantlets at the top or down the stem, and you can eventually cut these off and form new plants in the same way.
4. Propagating from pups is probably the easiest. Let’s use the Aloe plant as an example of a plant that will produce pups. Have you ever noticed when they produce a small offset that looks like the mother plant? This is a pup, and you can either cut it from the mother plant or carefully twist it off. These can generally be potted right away.
5. Being able to propagate from just a tiny leaf might be surprising to the newbie gardener, but yes, you can! To try your hand at this form of propagation, take a leaf and twist or cut it from the stem. It’s very important to try to get the entire base of the leaf stalk. You can place the leaves on top of a layer of soil, where they will form a callus. This is where a shallow tray or saucer comes in handy, as it will give you room to do many at one time. It’s always smart to do a bunch, as you may only have success rooting half of them.
6. In weeks to a few months you should notice them calloused over and producing roots. If the roots are growing towards the air instead of the soil, you might just want to turn the roots to help them find the soil or plant them in their own pot. You can also try placing some of the leaves with the base of the stem inserted shallowly into the soil. Place the trays in bright but indirect light so the leaves do not scorch.
7. Your new little plant cuttings will need to be treated a little more gently than typical hardy cacti and succulents. They will not tolerate bright, direct sun. When it comes to watering, you want to first wait until they have calloused and in some cases, formed roots. Mist lightly in the beginning until roots appear, and then you can begin watering them more frequently. In general, they will need to be babied and watered a little more often in the beginning, but the soil should still dry between waterings. There can be a little bit of trial and error, depending on your individual house. A house that’s drier because of air conditioning or radiators will mean you need to water your cuttings more frequently than if they are in an area with high humidity.
Instructions
1. Propagation is the process of creating new plants from a variety of sources. This could be from seeds, bulbs, cuttings or other parts of the plant. Cacti and succulents are very easy to propagate. You can take pups from certain species, a stem cutting, or even root new plants from just one leaf!
2. Echeveria, along with other succulents that form rosettes, are a great example of plants that can easily benefit from beheading. If you ever notice your Echeveria with a gangly, long stem and a beautiful rosette on top, it could benefit from beheading — especially if it seems to be slow growing or not producing as many leaves. Use a sharp sterilized knife to cut the top part of the rosette off, leaving some of the stem on it. Let the cutting sit for a few days until it forms a callous on the bottom of the stem. This is a very important step, or you risk rotted stems or leaves.
3. Once the cutting forms a callus, you can pot it in a container where it will form new roots and become a new plant. The remaining part of the stem can also form tiny plantlets at the top or down the stem, and you can eventually cut these off and form new plants in the same way.
4. Propagating from pups is probably the easiest. Let’s use the Aloe plant as an example of a plant that will produce pups. Have you ever noticed when they produce a small offset that looks like the mother plant? This is a pup, and you can either cut it from the mother plant or carefully twist it off. These can generally be potted right away.
5. Being able to propagate from just a tiny leaf might be surprising to the newbie gardener, but yes, you can! To try your hand at this form of propagation, take a leaf and twist or cut it from the stem. It’s very important to try to get the entire base of the leaf stalk. You can place the leaves on top of a layer of soil, where they will form a callus. This is where a shallow tray or saucer comes in handy, as it will give you room to do many at one time. It’s always smart to do a bunch, as you may only have success rooting half of them.
6. In weeks to a few months you should notice them calloused over and producing roots. If the roots are growing towards the air instead of the soil, you might just want to turn the roots to help them find the soil or plant them in their own pot. You can also try placing some of the leaves with the base of the stem inserted shallowly into the soil. Place the trays in bright but indirect light so the leaves do not scorch.
7. Your new little plant cuttings will need to be treated a little more gently than typical hardy cacti and succulents. They will not tolerate bright, direct sun. When it comes to watering, you want to first wait until they have calloused and in some cases, formed roots. Mist lightly in the beginning until roots appear, and then you can begin watering them more frequently. In general, they will need to be babied and watered a little more often in the beginning, but the soil should still dry between waterings. There can be a little bit of trial and error, depending on your individual house. A house that’s drier because of air conditioning or radiators will mean you need to water your cuttings more frequently than if they are in an area with high humidity.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Growing cacti and succulents from seed is relatively straightforward, and can produce a diverse collection of plants in only a few years. There are more than 2,000 species of cacti and succulents suitable as tabletop potted plants or tall floor plants. Cactus and succulent seeds are generally available from commercial seed companies.
1. Clean propagation pans by washing them with disinfectant. Pans should be small and shallow, no more than 4 inches (10 cm) deep and 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter. There are many different suggested growing media formulas to experiment with. One formula calls for mixing a coarsely sifted organic growing medium, such as commercial potting soil, with an equal volume of sharp sand, perlite or pumice for drainage.
2. Pasteurize your growing medium by baking it in an oven at 300 degrees Fahrenheit (150 degrees Celsius) for 30 minutes. Allow it to cool and wet it thoroughly. Let it drain but not dry out. Fill the propagation pans with the moist soil mixture to about 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) below the rim.
3. Sow seeds in the pans around the end of April. Plant seeds as deep into the soil as the seeds are wide and press down lightly. Cover small seeds with a sprinkling of sand to hold them in place. Seed spacing will depend on the species of cactus or succulent you are germinating. Cover the pans with clear plastic or glass. Place them in a bright location but out of direct sun. Keep temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). If soil seems too dry, spray lightly with water. Be sparing. Too much water can drown the seed. Don’t let soil dry out.
4. Watch for germination. Most cacti and succulents will germinate within three weeks but some species require more time — up to a year. When seedling plants appear, raise the cover during the day for ventilation. Watch soil moisture. Don’t allow soil to dry out but also don’t saturate it. Keep temperature between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 21 degrees Celsius).
5. Transplant your plants into their permanent pots. Most cacti and succulents will be ready to transplant in 6 months to a year after germination. The right growth size for transplanting will depend on the species you are growing. Most cacti can be transplanted when they are the size of a large marble. Many other succulents may be transplanted when they are 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) tall. Gently lift the plants from the growing medium, set into the soil of the new container, firm the soil around the roots and water well.
1. Clean propagation pans by washing them with disinfectant. Pans should be small and shallow, no more than 4 inches (10 cm) deep and 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter. There are many different suggested growing media formulas to experiment with. One formula calls for mixing a coarsely sifted organic growing medium, such as commercial potting soil, with an equal volume of sharp sand, perlite or pumice for drainage.
2. Pasteurize your growing medium by baking it in an oven at 300 degrees Fahrenheit (150 degrees Celsius) for 30 minutes. Allow it to cool and wet it thoroughly. Let it drain but not dry out. Fill the propagation pans with the moist soil mixture to about 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) below the rim.
3. Sow seeds in the pans around the end of April. Plant seeds as deep into the soil as the seeds are wide and press down lightly. Cover small seeds with a sprinkling of sand to hold them in place. Seed spacing will depend on the species of cactus or succulent you are germinating. Cover the pans with clear plastic or glass. Place them in a bright location but out of direct sun. Keep temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). If soil seems too dry, spray lightly with water. Be sparing. Too much water can drown the seed. Don’t let soil dry out.
4. Watch for germination. Most cacti and succulents will germinate within three weeks but some species require more time — up to a year. When seedling plants appear, raise the cover during the day for ventilation. Watch soil moisture. Don’t allow soil to dry out but also don’t saturate it. Keep temperature between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 21 degrees Celsius).
5. Transplant your plants into their permanent pots. Most cacti and succulents will be ready to transplant in 6 months to a year after germination. The right growth size for transplanting will depend on the species you are growing. Most cacti can be transplanted when they are the size of a large marble. Many other succulents may be transplanted when they are 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) tall. Gently lift the plants from the growing medium, set into the soil of the new container, firm the soil around the roots and water well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Growing plants from seed is not as hard as you might think – even though many of us have tried and failed! One of the most common mistakes people make is planting the seeds too deeply. You should only plant a seed as deep in the soil as the seed is wide. When seeds are planted too deeply the tiny plants emerge and begin to grow but do not reach the surface before they run out of stored food. Follow these instructions for growing cacti from seed and you will surely be successful.
Seed
It is best to use fresh seed when growing most cacti. Seed can be obtained from a commercial source or collected from a plant in your collection. Take care when collecting seed from a cactus collection. Some cactus species hybridize freely and true seed cannot be assured unless pollination has been monitored carefully.
Soil
A good potting mix, amended with ½ its volume of granite, perlite or pumice for drainage, makes a good mix for growing cacti from seed. It is important that the soil be as pest-free as possible. To pasteurize soil, put it in a shallow heatproof pan, place it in the oven at 300°F (150°C) for 30 minutes. Most commercial soils are at least pasteurized, if not sterilized. Check the label.
Planting
Be sure that all containers to be used are clean. The type of container is not important, but shallow ones are preferred. Water the soil thoroughly and let it drain completely before planting. Spread the seed evenly over the top of the soil. Cover the seed lightly with the mix or very fine sand. When planted, cover the container with any transparent lid. This will retain moisture and allow light to reach the seedlings.
Germination
Cactus seeds need both light and warmth to germinate. A sunny window is a good location, but be careful the light is not too strong and therefore too hot. The moisture retained by the cover should be sufficient to germinate the seed. Most cactus seeds germinate within 3 weeks, but some take much longer – be patient. Once the spines are showing, raise the cover for ventilation during the day. Do not allow the soil to dry out. The amount of water will depend on how much light and heat the seedlings receive. Watch the seedlings carefully. Do not swamp them in puddled water but do not let them dry out completely.
Repotting
Seedlings are ready to transplant into larger containers when they are the size of marbles between 6 months to a year after germination. Be sure the soil mix is very well drained, and the container is no larger than twice the diameter of the plant. At this size, plants can be grown in clumps or groups of 6-8 per pot until they are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across, then separated and individually repotted. Lift the small plants carefully from the growing mix, place in the new container, firm the soil around the roots, and water in.
It is usually best to let the young plants recover from transplanting in a shaded area. Even in cacti that naturally grow with full sun, seedlings will be tender to full sun until they are older. Acclimate a young plant to the sun gradually beginning when it is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across. It is often easier to acclimate young plants to the sun in the winter, and provide some shade in the summer until they are about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across.
Fertilization
Fertilize young seedlings monthly in the growing season, usually the warm season. Use a formulation specifically for cactus, or an all purpose soluble houseplant formula at ½ the recommended strength.
Seed
It is best to use fresh seed when growing most cacti. Seed can be obtained from a commercial source or collected from a plant in your collection. Take care when collecting seed from a cactus collection. Some cactus species hybridize freely and true seed cannot be assured unless pollination has been monitored carefully.
Soil
A good potting mix, amended with ½ its volume of granite, perlite or pumice for drainage, makes a good mix for growing cacti from seed. It is important that the soil be as pest-free as possible. To pasteurize soil, put it in a shallow heatproof pan, place it in the oven at 300°F (150°C) for 30 minutes. Most commercial soils are at least pasteurized, if not sterilized. Check the label.
Planting
Be sure that all containers to be used are clean. The type of container is not important, but shallow ones are preferred. Water the soil thoroughly and let it drain completely before planting. Spread the seed evenly over the top of the soil. Cover the seed lightly with the mix or very fine sand. When planted, cover the container with any transparent lid. This will retain moisture and allow light to reach the seedlings.
Germination
Cactus seeds need both light and warmth to germinate. A sunny window is a good location, but be careful the light is not too strong and therefore too hot. The moisture retained by the cover should be sufficient to germinate the seed. Most cactus seeds germinate within 3 weeks, but some take much longer – be patient. Once the spines are showing, raise the cover for ventilation during the day. Do not allow the soil to dry out. The amount of water will depend on how much light and heat the seedlings receive. Watch the seedlings carefully. Do not swamp them in puddled water but do not let them dry out completely.
Repotting
Seedlings are ready to transplant into larger containers when they are the size of marbles between 6 months to a year after germination. Be sure the soil mix is very well drained, and the container is no larger than twice the diameter of the plant. At this size, plants can be grown in clumps or groups of 6-8 per pot until they are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across, then separated and individually repotted. Lift the small plants carefully from the growing mix, place in the new container, firm the soil around the roots, and water in.
It is usually best to let the young plants recover from transplanting in a shaded area. Even in cacti that naturally grow with full sun, seedlings will be tender to full sun until they are older. Acclimate a young plant to the sun gradually beginning when it is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across. It is often easier to acclimate young plants to the sun in the winter, and provide some shade in the summer until they are about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across.
Fertilization
Fertilize young seedlings monthly in the growing season, usually the warm season. Use a formulation specifically for cactus, or an all purpose soluble houseplant formula at ½ the recommended strength.
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