文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
For a typical leafy plant, for good growth you keep the soil moist and don’t skimp on the watering. When dealing with succulent plants, different rules apply. Succulent plants store extra water in their leaves, roots or stems to survive long periods of heat and no rainfall. If you are overly generous, they fill up their water storage tissues, become bloated and can actually split open. Soil kept too wet prevents air from reaching the roots, and they die, leading to soft rot.
Diagnosing Overwatering
The main cause of potted plant death is overwatering, and this is especially true for succulents. You can usually tell an overwatered succulent by its puffy-looking stems or leaves. The plant can also look generally unhealthy. Reduce the watering and see if the plant responds. When the roots die from too-wet soil, the plant can look like it needs water, with shriveled leaves and no new growth. It does need water, but it has no live roots and can’t take water up. Unpot the plant and check for healthy roots. If the roots are alive and the soil is dry, give the plant water and it should respond. If the roots are dead and the soil is wet, your succulent is in trouble.
Treating Overwatered Succulents
If rot organisms have invaded the stem of the succulent plant through the roots and mushy areas are present, you can amputate the rot if it is limited in occurrence. Use a sharp knife dipped in alcohol, and excise the rotten tissue until all you see is clean and white. Put the treated plant where it gets bright light and good air circulation, let the wounds heal, then try re-rooting it in well-draining mix. Discard all infected materials, and disinfect the tools and work area. If the plant is mushy inside, discard it and the soil instead of composting them.
Good Watering Practices
Prevent overwatering by watching your succulents for growth cycles. When succulents are growing, they thrive on thorough watering alternating with partial drying out of the soil. When they are dormant they don’t use much water and the soil needs to be drier. Most succulents grow in spring and summer, but some grow in winter. The top layers of soil will tell you when your succulent needs water. Put your finger in the pot and feel if the soil 1 to 2 inches down in the pot is dry or moist. Don’t water if you feel moisture. When plants are dormant, dry soil should extend at least halfway down the pot. For spiny plants, use a chopstick or a wooden pencil as a probe, and check the tip for moist soil particles. If you are in doubt, don’t water the plant. Succulents can recover from underwatering, but you can’t take extra water out of the plant.
Soil Mix
A well-draining soil mix goes a long way to keep from overwatering succulents. Use a commercial cactus and succulent potting soil mix or make your own, combining equal parts of an organic element such as compost or peat, coarse horticultural-grade sand, and a gritty element such as horticultural pumice, perlite or lava fines. To help the potting mix dry out more quickly, give succulents a pot they can just comfortably fit in plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) of extra space. Repot them yearly as they grow into just the next pot size.
Diagnosing Overwatering
The main cause of potted plant death is overwatering, and this is especially true for succulents. You can usually tell an overwatered succulent by its puffy-looking stems or leaves. The plant can also look generally unhealthy. Reduce the watering and see if the plant responds. When the roots die from too-wet soil, the plant can look like it needs water, with shriveled leaves and no new growth. It does need water, but it has no live roots and can’t take water up. Unpot the plant and check for healthy roots. If the roots are alive and the soil is dry, give the plant water and it should respond. If the roots are dead and the soil is wet, your succulent is in trouble.
Treating Overwatered Succulents
If rot organisms have invaded the stem of the succulent plant through the roots and mushy areas are present, you can amputate the rot if it is limited in occurrence. Use a sharp knife dipped in alcohol, and excise the rotten tissue until all you see is clean and white. Put the treated plant where it gets bright light and good air circulation, let the wounds heal, then try re-rooting it in well-draining mix. Discard all infected materials, and disinfect the tools and work area. If the plant is mushy inside, discard it and the soil instead of composting them.
Good Watering Practices
Prevent overwatering by watching your succulents for growth cycles. When succulents are growing, they thrive on thorough watering alternating with partial drying out of the soil. When they are dormant they don’t use much water and the soil needs to be drier. Most succulents grow in spring and summer, but some grow in winter. The top layers of soil will tell you when your succulent needs water. Put your finger in the pot and feel if the soil 1 to 2 inches down in the pot is dry or moist. Don’t water if you feel moisture. When plants are dormant, dry soil should extend at least halfway down the pot. For spiny plants, use a chopstick or a wooden pencil as a probe, and check the tip for moist soil particles. If you are in doubt, don’t water the plant. Succulents can recover from underwatering, but you can’t take extra water out of the plant.
Soil Mix
A well-draining soil mix goes a long way to keep from overwatering succulents. Use a commercial cactus and succulent potting soil mix or make your own, combining equal parts of an organic element such as compost or peat, coarse horticultural-grade sand, and a gritty element such as horticultural pumice, perlite or lava fines. To help the potting mix dry out more quickly, give succulents a pot they can just comfortably fit in plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) of extra space. Repot them yearly as they grow into just the next pot size.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Crassula ovata, commonly known as Jade Plant or Money Plant, is probably the most widely grown succulent houseplant in the world. It is popular because it is very easy to grow and because it is said to bring good fortune and money. Jade Plants do make excellent houseplants, but can also grow up to 10 feet (3 m) high if planted outdoors and can even be pruned into an exotic hedge. Jade Plants have few problems in cultivation, but yellowing leaves are often an early sign that something is wrong.
Overwatering
As succulents, Jade Plants only need to be watered when the soil in their pot has dried out completely. If you keep your Jade Plant on a windowsill, watering it once every 2 weeks should be enough. Do not keep the pot standing in a saucer that catches excess water as this will waterlog the soil and quickly rot a Jade Plant’s roots, killing the whole plant. If the leaves on your Jade Plant are plump but turning yellow, reduce the amount and frequency of water. If you repot a Jade Plant, transfer it to a pot that is only slightly larger, as excess soil will act like a sponge and retain water around the roots.
Underwatering
A completely neglected and underwatered Jade Plant will eventually lose leaves in a bid to reduce the amount of water it transpires. An underwatered Jade Plant will have wrinkled, leathery leaves that are not shiny, while a healthy plant has glossy, smooth leaves. A thorough watering will soon rehydrate the plant and promote new leaf growth.
Overfertilizing
Succulent plants need very little fertilizer; too much can burn a Jade Plant’s roots and cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop. Use standard houseplant fertilizer at one quarter strength once a month or use a specialized succulent fertilizer.
Underfertilizing
WhileJade Plants will tolerate a lot of neglect, a potted plant will eventually be unable to get any more nutrition from its soil and will start to suffer. If all the leaves on your Jade Plant are very pale green or yellow, it might need to be fertilized with a special succulent fertilizer enriched with micronutrients or with bonemeal.
Natural Causes
Jade Plants that are not pruned will shed old leaves every year before their dormant winter phase. These leaves, generally large, older ones at the base of the stems, will first turn yellow and then drop off. This is a natural process and not a sign that there is a problem with your plant.
Other Causes
Do not use leaf shine products on your Jade Plant as they block up the pores on the leaves and suffocate the plant, causing the leaves to yellow and die. If you have recently moved your Jade Plant to a new spot, check to make sure it is not exposed to cold drafts and that it is receiving plenty of light.
Overwatering
As succulents, Jade Plants only need to be watered when the soil in their pot has dried out completely. If you keep your Jade Plant on a windowsill, watering it once every 2 weeks should be enough. Do not keep the pot standing in a saucer that catches excess water as this will waterlog the soil and quickly rot a Jade Plant’s roots, killing the whole plant. If the leaves on your Jade Plant are plump but turning yellow, reduce the amount and frequency of water. If you repot a Jade Plant, transfer it to a pot that is only slightly larger, as excess soil will act like a sponge and retain water around the roots.
Underwatering
A completely neglected and underwatered Jade Plant will eventually lose leaves in a bid to reduce the amount of water it transpires. An underwatered Jade Plant will have wrinkled, leathery leaves that are not shiny, while a healthy plant has glossy, smooth leaves. A thorough watering will soon rehydrate the plant and promote new leaf growth.
Overfertilizing
Succulent plants need very little fertilizer; too much can burn a Jade Plant’s roots and cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop. Use standard houseplant fertilizer at one quarter strength once a month or use a specialized succulent fertilizer.
Underfertilizing
WhileJade Plants will tolerate a lot of neglect, a potted plant will eventually be unable to get any more nutrition from its soil and will start to suffer. If all the leaves on your Jade Plant are very pale green or yellow, it might need to be fertilized with a special succulent fertilizer enriched with micronutrients or with bonemeal.
Natural Causes
Jade Plants that are not pruned will shed old leaves every year before their dormant winter phase. These leaves, generally large, older ones at the base of the stems, will first turn yellow and then drop off. This is a natural process and not a sign that there is a problem with your plant.
Other Causes
Do not use leaf shine products on your Jade Plant as they block up the pores on the leaves and suffocate the plant, causing the leaves to yellow and die. If you have recently moved your Jade Plant to a new spot, check to make sure it is not exposed to cold drafts and that it is receiving plenty of light.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents are hardy plants that add a striking appearance to any garden or home. Performing best in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 through 9, succulents are good plants for the novice and expert gardener alike, as they require little attention. Because succulents are desert plants, they should be watered sparingly. Succulents are typically not susceptible to insect or pest infestation, but overwatering can lead to root or stem rot, a preventable and easily fixable disease. Succulents with signs of root or stem rot should be treated immediately.
1. Check the plant for infected areas. These typically appear as dark brown to black spots or areas on the low part of the plant. Other signs of root or stem rot include puckered flesh with a dark tint around the infected area.
2. Stop watering a plant with rot. Remove the plant from its pot. Remove the soil mixture and clean out the pot thoroughly to ensure no remnants of the fungus are left.
3. Cut the infected black stem from the plant with a garden knife. Let the healthy portion of the plant dry naturally for several hours, keeping the succulent out of direct sunlight during this process. If other areas of the plant are showing minimal signs of rot, keep an eye on the plant. Succulents can recover from stem rot if properly watered and placed in a warm, dry location.
4. Using the cleaned out pot or a fresh one, combine equal parts soil, coarse sand and peat moss. Don’t reuse any of the materials used with the infected plant.
5. Pour roughly 2 inches (5 cm) of the mixture into the pot. Place the newly doctored succulent into the pot with the roots lying on top of the soil. Fill the pot with the soil mixture until it reaches the base of the stems. Firmly pat the soil around the plant.
6. Place the succulent in a brightly lit spot with warm temperatures. Succulents prefer dry climates, so don’t place the plant in a humid location.
7. Water the plant with just enough water to moisten the soil one week after repotting. After the soil has completely dried out, you can water more thoroughly.
Tip
Succulents grow best in well-drained soils that provide a high water-holding capacity. Planting succulents in a clay pot with a drainage hole ensures there is no sitting water and that the soil dries out between waterings. Succulents are dormant during the winter and should only be watered lightly at this time.
1. Check the plant for infected areas. These typically appear as dark brown to black spots or areas on the low part of the plant. Other signs of root or stem rot include puckered flesh with a dark tint around the infected area.
2. Stop watering a plant with rot. Remove the plant from its pot. Remove the soil mixture and clean out the pot thoroughly to ensure no remnants of the fungus are left.
3. Cut the infected black stem from the plant with a garden knife. Let the healthy portion of the plant dry naturally for several hours, keeping the succulent out of direct sunlight during this process. If other areas of the plant are showing minimal signs of rot, keep an eye on the plant. Succulents can recover from stem rot if properly watered and placed in a warm, dry location.
4. Using the cleaned out pot or a fresh one, combine equal parts soil, coarse sand and peat moss. Don’t reuse any of the materials used with the infected plant.
5. Pour roughly 2 inches (5 cm) of the mixture into the pot. Place the newly doctored succulent into the pot with the roots lying on top of the soil. Fill the pot with the soil mixture until it reaches the base of the stems. Firmly pat the soil around the plant.
6. Place the succulent in a brightly lit spot with warm temperatures. Succulents prefer dry climates, so don’t place the plant in a humid location.
7. Water the plant with just enough water to moisten the soil one week after repotting. After the soil has completely dried out, you can water more thoroughly.
Tip
Succulents grow best in well-drained soils that provide a high water-holding capacity. Planting succulents in a clay pot with a drainage hole ensures there is no sitting water and that the soil dries out between waterings. Succulents are dormant during the winter and should only be watered lightly at this time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents grow the most during the spring and summer. Once fall rolls around the plants like to take a break. During their fall/winter dormant period, watering should be reduced.
Succulents that you keep inside or in a warm greenhouse during the winter (like Echeveria and other tender succulents) should be watered only enough to prevent the roots from dying off. This can range between once every couple weeks and once every couple months.
Cold hardy succulents like Sempervivum and Sedum need even less water in the winter. When the temperatures are below 50°F (10°C) it is best not to water at all. Wet roots at low temperatures are the perfect conditions for rot.
Many plants suffer from desiccation in the winter. This is when a plant loses more water through evaporation than it can absorb through its roots. Before severely cold weather we water evergreen plants well to help prevent damage (once the ground freezes the plants cannot absorb water, but continue to lose it). Do NOT do this with succulents. Hens and Chicks like the opposite treatment. When freezing temperatures hit you want the soil with your succulents to be as dry as possible.
Of course, dry soil and winter is sort of an oxymoron (only possible if your plants are in a covered area). So, winter is also when it’s most important that your soil has excellent drainage.
Your reduced watering schedule should last until you begin to see new growth on your plants in the spring. The weather may still be a little cold, but your succulents will appreciate more water as they start to grow again.
Succulents that you keep inside or in a warm greenhouse during the winter (like Echeveria and other tender succulents) should be watered only enough to prevent the roots from dying off. This can range between once every couple weeks and once every couple months.
Cold hardy succulents like Sempervivum and Sedum need even less water in the winter. When the temperatures are below 50°F (10°C) it is best not to water at all. Wet roots at low temperatures are the perfect conditions for rot.
Many plants suffer from desiccation in the winter. This is when a plant loses more water through evaporation than it can absorb through its roots. Before severely cold weather we water evergreen plants well to help prevent damage (once the ground freezes the plants cannot absorb water, but continue to lose it). Do NOT do this with succulents. Hens and Chicks like the opposite treatment. When freezing temperatures hit you want the soil with your succulents to be as dry as possible.
Of course, dry soil and winter is sort of an oxymoron (only possible if your plants are in a covered area). So, winter is also when it’s most important that your soil has excellent drainage.
Your reduced watering schedule should last until you begin to see new growth on your plants in the spring. The weather may still be a little cold, but your succulents will appreciate more water as they start to grow again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Soils are essential for life on earth and critical in many of the environmental challenges facing the earth. Most plants depend on soils as a suitable medium for growth by providing at least six factors for plant growth: physical support for anchoring the root system, aeration and ventilation for the roots, pores for absorbing rainwater and holding it for use by the roots, moderation of temperature fluctuations, protection from phytotoxic substances, and supplying inorganic minerals in the form of dissolved nutrients.
The four major components of soil are air, water, mineral matter, and organic matter. An ideal soil for plant growth has a composition by volume of 50% solid (45% mineral, 5% organic) and 50% pore space (25% filled with air and 25% filled with water).
Succulent Soils
The most important consideration in making a potting soil for succulents is that it will drain well. The soil must be porous so that water penetrates easily and drains away quickly. At the roots a rapid exchange between water and air is essential but cannot take place when water is excessive. A soil that remains wet for long periods of time can quickly kill most succulent plants.
There is no one way to prepare a succulent soil mix and any that drain well should support healthy succulent growth. By experimenting you can find the one that works the best for you. An example of a good succulent soil mix is 2 parts by volume of a potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part small size gravel, e.g., pumice, turface, or crushed granite. Even simpler is a 1:1 mixture of potting soil and perlite. If sand is added to a mix, it should be coarse grained such as builders sand. Addition of organic material is not necessary since in their native habitats most succulents live in weathered soils which are very low in humus.
A soil mixture for succulent plants should have a good crumbly structure. To test your soil mix, moisten and then squeeze with your hands: the mixture should not form a lump but crumble loosely.
Often it is recommended to repot your succulents every couple years. The use of an appropriate soil mix will promote their good health and keep them looking their best.
The four major components of soil are air, water, mineral matter, and organic matter. An ideal soil for plant growth has a composition by volume of 50% solid (45% mineral, 5% organic) and 50% pore space (25% filled with air and 25% filled with water).
Succulent Soils
The most important consideration in making a potting soil for succulents is that it will drain well. The soil must be porous so that water penetrates easily and drains away quickly. At the roots a rapid exchange between water and air is essential but cannot take place when water is excessive. A soil that remains wet for long periods of time can quickly kill most succulent plants.
There is no one way to prepare a succulent soil mix and any that drain well should support healthy succulent growth. By experimenting you can find the one that works the best for you. An example of a good succulent soil mix is 2 parts by volume of a potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part small size gravel, e.g., pumice, turface, or crushed granite. Even simpler is a 1:1 mixture of potting soil and perlite. If sand is added to a mix, it should be coarse grained such as builders sand. Addition of organic material is not necessary since in their native habitats most succulents live in weathered soils which are very low in humus.
A soil mixture for succulent plants should have a good crumbly structure. To test your soil mix, moisten and then squeeze with your hands: the mixture should not form a lump but crumble loosely.
Often it is recommended to repot your succulents every couple years. The use of an appropriate soil mix will promote their good health and keep them looking their best.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents are group of plants that have fleshy leaves, stems or roots designed for storing water and allowing the plants to survive periods of drought. Whether your succulents grow in containers on a patio, as groundcovers between the pavers in a garden path or as colorful and interesting accents in a garden bed, they need a growing medium suited to their capacity for retaining water.
Soil Requirements
Although succulents retain moisture well, they do still need moderate to regular watering, at least once a week or a deep soaking every few weeks during the growing season. But too much water will cause the roots to develop black stem rot, so the trick is finding a growing medium that drains quickly and dries out completely between watering. Succulents do best with soil that is normally considered poor, filled with inorganic elements, as opposed to one rich in organic material.
Organic and Inorganic Elements
Despite their need for well-draining soil, succulents do need some nutrients that organic elements provide. Some gardeners recommends a mix of 1 part garden soil, 1 part sand and 1 part peat moss or a mixture of 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite. Other gardeners avoid potting mixes containing peat, remove any wood and twigs from the mix and add a coarse, gritty type of sand to potting soil.
Testing the Soil
Using sand, pumice, decomposed granite or perlite as the inorganic element in your succulent growing medium is less important than simply ensuring that the soil crumbles easily and lets water flow quickly through. If your soil falls apart after you wet it and give it a squeeze, it has the right components. If it remains formed into a lump, it needs more inorganic elements added to the mix.
Other Growing Medium Needs
The best soil for succulents is slightly acidic with a high lime content. If a soil test kit determines that your soil is highly acidic, your plants will benefit from some horticultural lime added to the soil. If your soil is overly alkaline, change the balance by watering with a solution of 1 tablespoon of white vinegar added to 5 gallons water. Top off your growing medium with a layer of gravel or small river rock to keep the tops of the plants dry.
Soil Requirements
Although succulents retain moisture well, they do still need moderate to regular watering, at least once a week or a deep soaking every few weeks during the growing season. But too much water will cause the roots to develop black stem rot, so the trick is finding a growing medium that drains quickly and dries out completely between watering. Succulents do best with soil that is normally considered poor, filled with inorganic elements, as opposed to one rich in organic material.
Organic and Inorganic Elements
Despite their need for well-draining soil, succulents do need some nutrients that organic elements provide. Some gardeners recommends a mix of 1 part garden soil, 1 part sand and 1 part peat moss or a mixture of 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite. Other gardeners avoid potting mixes containing peat, remove any wood and twigs from the mix and add a coarse, gritty type of sand to potting soil.
Testing the Soil
Using sand, pumice, decomposed granite or perlite as the inorganic element in your succulent growing medium is less important than simply ensuring that the soil crumbles easily and lets water flow quickly through. If your soil falls apart after you wet it and give it a squeeze, it has the right components. If it remains formed into a lump, it needs more inorganic elements added to the mix.
Other Growing Medium Needs
The best soil for succulents is slightly acidic with a high lime content. If a soil test kit determines that your soil is highly acidic, your plants will benefit from some horticultural lime added to the soil. If your soil is overly alkaline, change the balance by watering with a solution of 1 tablespoon of white vinegar added to 5 gallons water. Top off your growing medium with a layer of gravel or small river rock to keep the tops of the plants dry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents are plants that store water in their tissues, enabling them to live in severe environments such as a desert. Many succulents thrive with full sun exposure. Once some varieties become accustomed to a low light environment, however, they can remain there indefinitely as long as they are cared for properly. Because succulents retain moisture in their thick foliage, they require soil that drains well and less water than typical houseplants.
Mason’s Congo
Originating in central Africa, Mason’s Congo (Sansevieria masoniana) can grow up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall by 2 feet (60 cm) wide. As an indoor plant, it requires little light or water. Its wide, dark-green leaf stalks are covered with lighter green spots, providing a statement in any office, and the plant is simple to maintain. Mason’s Congo is hardy outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zone 10.
Jade Plant
The Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a popular indoor plant. It requires minimal watering and is known in Japanese folklore as the Money Plant. According to legend, it can lead to financial success. The thick trunk and branches give this plant a tree like look similar to a bonsai tree. If planted outdoors, the jade plant is considered a perennial succulent, thriving in sunlight to partial shade in areas where it is hardy, USDA zones 10a to 11a.
Gasteria
The Gasterias (Gasteria sp.) grow well indoors. Similar to the Aloe plants, Gasteria has long, spiny, green leaves that grow in a rosette or spiral form. The leaves are spear-shaped and, as true with all succulents, swollen with water-storing tissue. Gasteria is named for its stomach-shaped flowers. The largest Gasteria grows up to 2 feet (60 cm) tall. Gasteria is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 11 in sandy soil.
Zebra Plant
Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) doesn’t take up much room and needs even less care. It’s the ideal succulent for busy lives. Hailing from South Africa, plants perch on soil and sport a tidy form with leaves that boast striking horizontal white stripes. Zebra Plant is hardy outdoors in USDA zones 9 through 11.
Aloe Vera
Perhaps the most commonly known succulent is Aloe vera. It can be grown in low-light environments, although it thrives in sunlight. Aloe vera is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 9.
Mason’s Congo
Originating in central Africa, Mason’s Congo (Sansevieria masoniana) can grow up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall by 2 feet (60 cm) wide. As an indoor plant, it requires little light or water. Its wide, dark-green leaf stalks are covered with lighter green spots, providing a statement in any office, and the plant is simple to maintain. Mason’s Congo is hardy outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zone 10.
Jade Plant
The Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a popular indoor plant. It requires minimal watering and is known in Japanese folklore as the Money Plant. According to legend, it can lead to financial success. The thick trunk and branches give this plant a tree like look similar to a bonsai tree. If planted outdoors, the jade plant is considered a perennial succulent, thriving in sunlight to partial shade in areas where it is hardy, USDA zones 10a to 11a.
Gasteria
The Gasterias (Gasteria sp.) grow well indoors. Similar to the Aloe plants, Gasteria has long, spiny, green leaves that grow in a rosette or spiral form. The leaves are spear-shaped and, as true with all succulents, swollen with water-storing tissue. Gasteria is named for its stomach-shaped flowers. The largest Gasteria grows up to 2 feet (60 cm) tall. Gasteria is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 11 in sandy soil.
Zebra Plant
Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) doesn’t take up much room and needs even less care. It’s the ideal succulent for busy lives. Hailing from South Africa, plants perch on soil and sport a tidy form with leaves that boast striking horizontal white stripes. Zebra Plant is hardy outdoors in USDA zones 9 through 11.
Aloe Vera
Perhaps the most commonly known succulent is Aloe vera. It can be grown in low-light environments, although it thrives in sunlight. Aloe vera is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 9.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulent plants that have been just moved from a shady location to direct sunlight are likely to get sunburn. Sunburn on a succulent shows the worst damage at the top and side that is facing the sun. Ridges are more likely to burn than valleys along the plant stem. Sometimes, cacti have wide ribs and little spine protection and then sunburn will occur in between the ribs. A light burn will just be a whitish discoloring on the exposed areas. More severe burns will become a hard brown scar along the plant in whatever areas did not get shaded by spines or other parts of the stem.
Treatment
If you catch a sun burned succulent at the whitish discoloring stage, you can undo the damage by getting it some shade protection. If the plant gets to the brown scaring stage, then the damage is permanent and the plant will have to grow out of it in time. Again, prevention is the best defense with sunburn.
If you purchase a plant that has been sitting inside a store for some time, you will need to gradually move it into full sun. Do this by giving it full sun for a short period of time each day, and then regularly increase the length of time in the full sun over the course of a couple weeks. Keep in mind that some species do not ever want full sun all day. Also note that “full sun” in England is much different than “full sun” in Arizona. The stronger the sun where you live, the more careful you have to be to keep your plants sun burn free.
Treatment
If you catch a sun burned succulent at the whitish discoloring stage, you can undo the damage by getting it some shade protection. If the plant gets to the brown scaring stage, then the damage is permanent and the plant will have to grow out of it in time. Again, prevention is the best defense with sunburn.
If you purchase a plant that has been sitting inside a store for some time, you will need to gradually move it into full sun. Do this by giving it full sun for a short period of time each day, and then regularly increase the length of time in the full sun over the course of a couple weeks. Keep in mind that some species do not ever want full sun all day. Also note that “full sun” in England is much different than “full sun” in Arizona. The stronger the sun where you live, the more careful you have to be to keep your plants sun burn free.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Crassula ovata (also known as Jade Plant) care is easy and simple. Many people enjoy growing Jade Plants in their homes and offices, and they are considered to be symbols of good luck. But you do not need to be lucky to learn what the proper care and maintenance of Jade Plants is. Keep reading to learn how to care for a Crassula ovata.
Learning about the care and maintenance of Crassula ovata is easy. The most important factors to consider when growing jade houseplants is water, light, temperature, and fertilizer.
Growing Conditions
Light: Crassula ovata flourishes in good health with plenty of light. If you can provide a few hours of sunshine a day your going to have a happy plant.
Soil: A good draining soil mix that is gritty is advisable to use, which is sold and used for cacti and succulents.
Temperature: Room temperatures of around 60°F to 75°F (15.5°C to 24°C) are ideal. Winter no less than 50°F (10°C).
Hardiness Zones: 9b – 11a
Watering: It’s best to allow the soil to become dry between each watering which will depend on the time of year, how much humidity and amount of sunlight it’s getting. Allowing too much water to sit at the bottom of the pot with the roots will cause them to rot (avoid this).
Fertilizing: Feed each week or two (maybe less) with a weak or diluted liquid fertilizer. Fertilizer made for succulents may be your best bet, that does not need to be a high strength type.
General Care
Easy to grow in container, best in full sun but will tolerate part sun. It need well-drained soil with a neutral pH. Water regularly form spring to autumn and allow soil to dry out before watering again. During the winter months, water only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. Most common reason for failure is overwatering!
Propagation
Propagating is achieved with leaf or stem cuttings which are placed into a soil mix, then wait until they show some growth. Before placing them in soil mix you will prevent potential problems from the sap seeping out by allowing them to dry on a windowsill, for a few days or so.
Learning about the care and maintenance of Crassula ovata is easy. The most important factors to consider when growing jade houseplants is water, light, temperature, and fertilizer.
Growing Conditions
Light: Crassula ovata flourishes in good health with plenty of light. If you can provide a few hours of sunshine a day your going to have a happy plant.
Soil: A good draining soil mix that is gritty is advisable to use, which is sold and used for cacti and succulents.
Temperature: Room temperatures of around 60°F to 75°F (15.5°C to 24°C) are ideal. Winter no less than 50°F (10°C).
Hardiness Zones: 9b – 11a
Watering: It’s best to allow the soil to become dry between each watering which will depend on the time of year, how much humidity and amount of sunlight it’s getting. Allowing too much water to sit at the bottom of the pot with the roots will cause them to rot (avoid this).
Fertilizing: Feed each week or two (maybe less) with a weak or diluted liquid fertilizer. Fertilizer made for succulents may be your best bet, that does not need to be a high strength type.
General Care
Easy to grow in container, best in full sun but will tolerate part sun. It need well-drained soil with a neutral pH. Water regularly form spring to autumn and allow soil to dry out before watering again. During the winter months, water only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. Most common reason for failure is overwatering!
Propagation
Propagating is achieved with leaf or stem cuttings which are placed into a soil mix, then wait until they show some growth. Before placing them in soil mix you will prevent potential problems from the sap seeping out by allowing them to dry on a windowsill, for a few days or so.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dorstenia are a strange caudex forming genus of plants from north east Africa. They tend to spread out along the base, just above the soil and have some to many branches pointing upward. They usually have attractive green non-succulent leaves of various shapes depending on the species. Some species have sunflower like flowers that spray seeds all over your greenhouse. Small Dorstenia plants pop up in other pots. Dorstenia foetida does this and is the most common species found in the market place. However, most of the other species are extremely rare and somewhat difficult to grow. Dorstenia gigas, from the island of Socotra in the Arabian Sea, prefers a mild humid, but not rainy, coastal climate. It will wilt if exposed for extended periods to excessively high or low temperatures. Below is a short list of highly sought after Dorstenia species.
Growing Conditions
Light: They needs bright light or partial to full shade.
Water: During the growing season, Dorstenia appreciate a fair amount of water but allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, making sure that they never dry out completely. During winter months they should be given very little water.
Hardiness Zones: 10b – 12b
Soil: Well-drained soil mix that must not remain soggy for too long.
Fertilizer: They are fertilized once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to 1/2 the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation
Usually propagated by seed. Many species are self-fertile. Their seeds are expelled explosively from the mature seed heads and liable to populate pots several feet away. They can also be propagated by cuttings.
Pests and Problems
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours, and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases, which should be treated pre-emptively with a systemic fungicide.
At the end of the winter we suggest a wide range insecticide to prevent the attack of aphids and cochineals.
Grower’s Tips
Dorstenias are warm loving plants and they need a bit more water than regular succulents. They need well-drained soil mix and their water needs vary depending on the season of the year. Water regularly to abundant form spring to autumn. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, but make sure that they never dry out completely. During the winter months they tend to go at least partially dormant. During this period, water very little. Giving plants a warm, sunny position can result in beautiful compact growing plants. Fertilizing plants once in a while during their growing period with a high potash and phosphorus fertilizer is recommended.
Growing Conditions
Light: They needs bright light or partial to full shade.
Water: During the growing season, Dorstenia appreciate a fair amount of water but allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, making sure that they never dry out completely. During winter months they should be given very little water.
Hardiness Zones: 10b – 12b
Soil: Well-drained soil mix that must not remain soggy for too long.
Fertilizer: They are fertilized once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to 1/2 the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation
Usually propagated by seed. Many species are self-fertile. Their seeds are expelled explosively from the mature seed heads and liable to populate pots several feet away. They can also be propagated by cuttings.
Pests and Problems
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours, and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases, which should be treated pre-emptively with a systemic fungicide.
At the end of the winter we suggest a wide range insecticide to prevent the attack of aphids and cochineals.
Grower’s Tips
Dorstenias are warm loving plants and they need a bit more water than regular succulents. They need well-drained soil mix and their water needs vary depending on the season of the year. Water regularly to abundant form spring to autumn. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, but make sure that they never dry out completely. During the winter months they tend to go at least partially dormant. During this period, water very little. Giving plants a warm, sunny position can result in beautiful compact growing plants. Fertilizing plants once in a while during their growing period with a high potash and phosphorus fertilizer is recommended.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Echeveria are very popular succulents that grow in attractive rosettes with beautiful leaves in a variety of colors and sometimes stunning flowers. These plants have been extensively hybridized, so in addition to the main species there are many varieties that have been specially bred for interesting leaf form and color. Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Aloe plants are native to Africa and the surrounding regions, there are about 400 species in the genus. Of these, about five are commonly found in cultivation. The most famous is Aloe vera, which has been used medicinally for centuries. All plants are succulents, forming low rosettes of lance-shaped fleshy leaves or, in the case of Aloe arborescens, growing into a taller, bare-stemmed plant topped with 10-inch leaves.
Many kinds of Aloe have relatively harmless spines on their leaves, but it’s still worth being careful. Besides A. vera, attractive varieties include A. aristata and A. variegata.
Growing Conditions
Light: Strong, bright light. They can withstand full summer sun, once acclimated. In the winter, provide bright light.
Water: Water generously in the summer and nearly cease watering in the winter. Do not let water stand in the rosettes.
Temperature: Prefers warmer temperatures of 70ºF/21ºC to 80ºF/27ºC, but will survive down to 40ºF/4.5ºC.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential; use a cacti or succulent mix.
Fertilizer: Feed with a cactus fertilizer in the summer only. Suspend feeding in the winter as the plant goes dormant.
Propagation
During repotting of a larger plant, it is possible to carefully divide the root ball. Some kinds of Aloe will send off off-sets that can be potted independently.
Repotting
The plants are not particularly fast-growing and will only rarely need repotting. Repot plants in the spring that are tipping over their pots or have ceased growing.
Use a fast-draining potting mix with one-third sand or pebbles.
Grower’s Tips
Aloe is a very forgiving plant, and a well-grown plant can be quite beautiful. The variegated Tiger Aloe forms bunches of low rosettes with green bands on wide leaves. As with all succulents, it’s essential that it is never allowed to sit in stagnant water, and the plant should be carefully monitored to watch for signs of overwatering. Many people keep a pot of A. vera in the house to use the juice from the fleshy leaves on burns and minor skin irritations. Plants will almost never flower in cultivation.
Many kinds of Aloe have relatively harmless spines on their leaves, but it’s still worth being careful. Besides A. vera, attractive varieties include A. aristata and A. variegata.
Growing Conditions
Light: Strong, bright light. They can withstand full summer sun, once acclimated. In the winter, provide bright light.
Water: Water generously in the summer and nearly cease watering in the winter. Do not let water stand in the rosettes.
Temperature: Prefers warmer temperatures of 70ºF/21ºC to 80ºF/27ºC, but will survive down to 40ºF/4.5ºC.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential; use a cacti or succulent mix.
Fertilizer: Feed with a cactus fertilizer in the summer only. Suspend feeding in the winter as the plant goes dormant.
Propagation
During repotting of a larger plant, it is possible to carefully divide the root ball. Some kinds of Aloe will send off off-sets that can be potted independently.
Repotting
The plants are not particularly fast-growing and will only rarely need repotting. Repot plants in the spring that are tipping over their pots or have ceased growing.
Use a fast-draining potting mix with one-third sand or pebbles.
Grower’s Tips
Aloe is a very forgiving plant, and a well-grown plant can be quite beautiful. The variegated Tiger Aloe forms bunches of low rosettes with green bands on wide leaves. As with all succulents, it’s essential that it is never allowed to sit in stagnant water, and the plant should be carefully monitored to watch for signs of overwatering. Many people keep a pot of A. vera in the house to use the juice from the fleshy leaves on burns and minor skin irritations. Plants will almost never flower in cultivation.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy Aloe and Echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia. In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Agave can be exceptional houseplants, depending on which one you buy. There are about 450 species of Agave, including the famous Century Plant (which, for the record, does flower more often than once a century). As desert plants, Agave appreciate direct, abundant sunlight and light water. They are slow-growing, so even specimens that grow into large plants can be kept inside for a period of time before they outgrow the room.
Agave are not very “people friendly” their sap tends to be irritating and most of them feature truly intimidating spines on their leaves that make brushing against them a painful adventure.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright sunlight year-round. Consider moving your plants outside during the summer, where they can luxuriate in full sunlight, and make sure they get plenty of winter light.
Water: In spring, water with warm water just as the soil begins to dry out. Don’t let the soil become completely dry. In the winter and fall, when growth is suspended, water very lightly.
Temperature: They prefer warm spring and summer temperatures (70ºF/21ºC – 90ºF/32ºC) and cooler fall and winter temps (50ºF/10ºC – 60ºF/15ºC).
Soil: Use standard succulent or cacti potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring and summer; do not feed during fall and winter.
Propagation
Agave are difficult to grow from seed, and indoor plants will rarely flower anyway. Instead, use off-sets as the plant ages. In general, however, propagation of Agave grown as houseplants can be difficult, since plants may not produce off-sets at all, and once potted up, off-sets frequently take a long time to begin growing.
In most cases, it’s better to simply buy a new plant or take your propagation efforts to the greenhouse or glasshouse. If you are potting up off-sets, use a cactus soil and keep them in a place with strong light. Lightly water and give them plenty of time to form strong roots before repotting.
Repotting
In general, Agave do not need to be repotted every year. Most of the species commonly found in cultivation grow very slowly and will take a long time to outgrow their pot. It’s also best to handle your Agave as little as possible, since they do not like to be disturbed. When you do repot, refresh the spent soil with new potting mix and make sure the plant is firmly anchored in its pot. However, be careful not to pot the Agave too deep as that will encourage stem rot during the growing season. When repotting, use a fast-draining cacti or succulent mix. Do not use a mix that will become soggy or hold water.
Grower’s Tips
Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They’re slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you’re the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, Agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you’re the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, Agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and Agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets.
Agave are not very “people friendly” their sap tends to be irritating and most of them feature truly intimidating spines on their leaves that make brushing against them a painful adventure.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright sunlight year-round. Consider moving your plants outside during the summer, where they can luxuriate in full sunlight, and make sure they get plenty of winter light.
Water: In spring, water with warm water just as the soil begins to dry out. Don’t let the soil become completely dry. In the winter and fall, when growth is suspended, water very lightly.
Temperature: They prefer warm spring and summer temperatures (70ºF/21ºC – 90ºF/32ºC) and cooler fall and winter temps (50ºF/10ºC – 60ºF/15ºC).
Soil: Use standard succulent or cacti potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring and summer; do not feed during fall and winter.
Propagation
Agave are difficult to grow from seed, and indoor plants will rarely flower anyway. Instead, use off-sets as the plant ages. In general, however, propagation of Agave grown as houseplants can be difficult, since plants may not produce off-sets at all, and once potted up, off-sets frequently take a long time to begin growing.
In most cases, it’s better to simply buy a new plant or take your propagation efforts to the greenhouse or glasshouse. If you are potting up off-sets, use a cactus soil and keep them in a place with strong light. Lightly water and give them plenty of time to form strong roots before repotting.
Repotting
In general, Agave do not need to be repotted every year. Most of the species commonly found in cultivation grow very slowly and will take a long time to outgrow their pot. It’s also best to handle your Agave as little as possible, since they do not like to be disturbed. When you do repot, refresh the spent soil with new potting mix and make sure the plant is firmly anchored in its pot. However, be careful not to pot the Agave too deep as that will encourage stem rot during the growing season. When repotting, use a fast-draining cacti or succulent mix. Do not use a mix that will become soggy or hold water.
Grower’s Tips
Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They’re slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you’re the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, Agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you’re the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, Agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and Agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Crassula is a diverse and extensive genus of succulent plants, with about 350 species. Probably the most well known is the Jade plant (Crassula ovata). Many of us know it as a houseplant, but in warm climates it grows into a shrub. Many other Crassula species are much smaller. Some are miniatures and creeping ground covers. They are all quite fascinating, the types of plants you see occasionally and wonder “What is that?” With the resurgence of succulent container gardening, these smaller Crassula species are becoming more readily available and their easy growing habit makes them worth getting to know.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Most needs some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color.
Water: As succulents, they don’t need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Many people underfeed their succulents during the growing season. Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Crassula are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings. Plants can be easily propagated from a single leaf: sprout leaves by placing them into a succulent or cacti mix, then covering the dish until they sprout.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Crassula are easy to grow, but they are susceptible to mealy bugs and fungal diseases. As with all succulents, overwatering is sure to be fatal, so err on the side of too dry rather than too wet. Never let your Crassula sit in water. If you water from beneath by letting the plant sit in a saucer of water, make sure to pour off any excess water after a few minutes.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Most needs some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color.
Water: As succulents, they don’t need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Many people underfeed their succulents during the growing season. Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Crassula are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings. Plants can be easily propagated from a single leaf: sprout leaves by placing them into a succulent or cacti mix, then covering the dish until they sprout.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Crassula are easy to grow, but they are susceptible to mealy bugs and fungal diseases. As with all succulents, overwatering is sure to be fatal, so err on the side of too dry rather than too wet. Never let your Crassula sit in water. If you water from beneath by letting the plant sit in a saucer of water, make sure to pour off any excess water after a few minutes.
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