文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
There are few plants more forgiving of sun and bad soil than Sedum plants. Growing them is easy, so easy, in fact, that even the most novice gardener can excel at it. With a large number of varieties to choose from, you will find one that works for your garden.
How to Grow Sedum
When growing Sedum, keep in mind that plants need very little attention or care. They will thrive in conditions that many other plants thrive in, but will do just as well in less hospitable areas. They are ideal for that part of your yard that gets too much sun or too little water to grow anything else. A common name for Sedum is Stonecrop, due to the fact that many gardeners joke that only stones need less care and live longer.
Sedum varieties vary in height. The smallest are just a few inches tall, and the tallest can be up to 3 feet (90 cm). The large majority of varieties are shorter and they are frequently used as ground covers in xeriscape gardens or rock gardens.
Sedum varieties also vary in their hardiness. Many are hardy to USDA zone 3, while others need a warmer climate. Make sure the Sedum that you plant is suited to your hardiness zone.
Sedums need no additional water or fertilizer. Overwatering and overfertilizing can hurt the plants far worse than not watering or fertilizing.
Tips for Planting Sedums
Sedum is easily planted. For shorter varieties, simply laying the plant on the ground where you want it to grow is normally enough to get the plant started there. They will send out roots from wherever the stem is touching the ground and root itself. If you would like to further ensure that the plant will start there, you can add a very thin covering of soil over the plant.
For taller varieties, you can break off one of the stems and push it into the ground where you would like to grow it. The stem will root very easily and anew plant will be established in a season or two.
How to Grow Sedum
When growing Sedum, keep in mind that plants need very little attention or care. They will thrive in conditions that many other plants thrive in, but will do just as well in less hospitable areas. They are ideal for that part of your yard that gets too much sun or too little water to grow anything else. A common name for Sedum is Stonecrop, due to the fact that many gardeners joke that only stones need less care and live longer.
Sedum varieties vary in height. The smallest are just a few inches tall, and the tallest can be up to 3 feet (90 cm). The large majority of varieties are shorter and they are frequently used as ground covers in xeriscape gardens or rock gardens.
Sedum varieties also vary in their hardiness. Many are hardy to USDA zone 3, while others need a warmer climate. Make sure the Sedum that you plant is suited to your hardiness zone.
Sedums need no additional water or fertilizer. Overwatering and overfertilizing can hurt the plants far worse than not watering or fertilizing.
Tips for Planting Sedums
Sedum is easily planted. For shorter varieties, simply laying the plant on the ground where you want it to grow is normally enough to get the plant started there. They will send out roots from wherever the stem is touching the ground and root itself. If you would like to further ensure that the plant will start there, you can add a very thin covering of soil over the plant.
For taller varieties, you can break off one of the stems and push it into the ground where you would like to grow it. The stem will root very easily and anew plant will be established in a season or two.
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5
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Sempervivum, also known as “Houseleeks” or “Hen and Chick” plants, are among the most popular succulents. They are exceptionally hardy plants and seem to thrive in cold and hot, low light or strong light. They are closely related to Echeveria, Kalanchoe and Crassula, which all belong to the Crassulaceae family. There is a very wide variety of Sempervivum, and they are easily pressed into service as beautiful mixed-dish gardens.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, some varieties can withstand temperatures down to freezing.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Sempervivum earned their popular name “Hen and Chicks” from their growth habit. The mother plant, or hen, sends off numerous offsets, which will cluster around her base like chicks. These offsets can be easily repotted, or the plants can be left to form a clumping mat.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Sempervivum are not difficult to grow, provided they are not waterlogged and killed from excess watering. They can be easily grown outdoors and in containers, and they earned the name “Houseleeks” from their tendency to root on the roofs of houses. After the mother plant flowers, it will naturally die, but by this time, the plant has likely produced many offsets that will continue to grow. These are excellent for cold windows.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, some varieties can withstand temperatures down to freezing.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Sempervivum earned their popular name “Hen and Chicks” from their growth habit. The mother plant, or hen, sends off numerous offsets, which will cluster around her base like chicks. These offsets can be easily repotted, or the plants can be left to form a clumping mat.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Sempervivum are not difficult to grow, provided they are not waterlogged and killed from excess watering. They can be easily grown outdoors and in containers, and they earned the name “Houseleeks” from their tendency to root on the roofs of houses. After the mother plant flowers, it will naturally die, but by this time, the plant has likely produced many offsets that will continue to grow. These are excellent for cold windows.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Many people think that cacti and succulents require a small amount of water every once in a while. While its true that these plants are tough, and can usually survive under such circumstances, most certainly will not thrive.
During their growing season, these plants like regular watering and fertilizing. For most, the period of growth is from spring into fall. Many plants rest (stop putting on growth) from late fall to early spring, when temperatures are cool and daylight length is short, and during mid-summer, when temperatures are at their peak.
How often to water and fertilize: While growing, cacti and succulents should be watered at least once a week. Some people water more often than this. During each watering, give the soil a good soaking, so that water runs out of the ‘drainage holes’ of the pots. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering. (A balanced fertilizer is one that has roughly equal proportions of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium. A 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted to 1/4 strength is ideal.)
When the weather cools and day-length shortens, plants enter a rest period. During that time, increase the interval between watering, and let the potting mixture dry out between watering. Some people say that during dormancy, cacti and succulents should be given just enough water so that they show no sign of shriveling. Use some common sense here. If your plants are kept indoors on a window sill in a heated room during the Winter, they will need more water than if they were over-wintered out-of-doors. In any case, do not fertilize your plants during dormancy.
There are exceptions to the above guidelines, as some cacti and, especially some succulents, are winter growers. Again, your local cacti and succulent club can help you determine the particular growing habits of your plants.
A word about water: Tap water often can be alkaline and/or hard, meaning it contains high concentrations of dissolved minerals. Such minerals can build up in the plant’s ‘soil’ over time, causing harm. This is one good reason why your plants should periodically be ‘repotted.’ Buildup of such minerals can also cause unsightly deposits to form, especially on unglazed clay pots. Never water your plants with water that has been through a softening system that uses salt as a recharging agent, as these systems simply replace the “hardness” in the water with sodium ions.
Rain water is preferable to tap water, if you can manage to collect and store it.
Light
Most cacti and succulents like bright light, but not all can tolerate intense, direct sunlight, especially in conjunction with high temperatures. The intensity of the light that a plant will thrive in depends on the species. A plant that is grown in optimal light conditions will “look normal” (unstressed), and is more likely to flower than one grown in sub-optimal lighting conditions. (Keep in mind that succulents, and especially cacti, have very differing ages at which they will flower. For example, even if you give your giant Saguaro seedling (Carnegiea gigantea) conditions that are optimal in every way, you will likely not see it flower in your lifetime.)
While optimal lighting conditions depend on species, there are some general signs that indicate your plant is getting either too much or too little light:
Too much light: When your plant is getting too much light, it can appear “off color,” taking on a “bleached out” look, or turning yellow or even orangish. Keep in mind that these signs can also indicate other stresses, such as disease or too much water, so use common sense when making your diagnosis.
If your plant is moved suddenly into very bright sunlight conditions, or if the weather suddenly turns hot with abundant sunshine, your plant can scorch. This can happen very rapidly and can scar the plant for the rest of its life, so be on alert for when such a condition might occur, and take precautions to prevent scorching.
Too little light: If your plant is receiving too little light, it might etiolate and/or appear to really reach for the light source. (Etiolation is the condition where a plant becomes “drawn,” for example, a cactus plant that is normally round begins to look as if it is being stretched out from the growing point at its center). Your plant will suffer if left in such light conditions for very long. When transitioning such a plant to stronger light, keep in mind that it will be especially prone to scorching, so make the transition slowly.
Note that in most cases, it is quite normal for a plant to slowly grow toward the light. What you want to avoid is the condition where it is really reaching for the light. For example, if your columnar cactus is bent toward the window at 90°, it’s trying to tell you something.
For a potted plant that slowly grows toward the light over time, you can rotate its pot to cause it to grow in a more balanced fashion. Remember, if you do this, that the side of the plant that had not been exposed to direct sunlight for a long time might scorch if you make the transition too quickly. Be careful!
During their growing season, these plants like regular watering and fertilizing. For most, the period of growth is from spring into fall. Many plants rest (stop putting on growth) from late fall to early spring, when temperatures are cool and daylight length is short, and during mid-summer, when temperatures are at their peak.
How often to water and fertilize: While growing, cacti and succulents should be watered at least once a week. Some people water more often than this. During each watering, give the soil a good soaking, so that water runs out of the ‘drainage holes’ of the pots. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering. (A balanced fertilizer is one that has roughly equal proportions of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium. A 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted to 1/4 strength is ideal.)
When the weather cools and day-length shortens, plants enter a rest period. During that time, increase the interval between watering, and let the potting mixture dry out between watering. Some people say that during dormancy, cacti and succulents should be given just enough water so that they show no sign of shriveling. Use some common sense here. If your plants are kept indoors on a window sill in a heated room during the Winter, they will need more water than if they were over-wintered out-of-doors. In any case, do not fertilize your plants during dormancy.
There are exceptions to the above guidelines, as some cacti and, especially some succulents, are winter growers. Again, your local cacti and succulent club can help you determine the particular growing habits of your plants.
A word about water: Tap water often can be alkaline and/or hard, meaning it contains high concentrations of dissolved minerals. Such minerals can build up in the plant’s ‘soil’ over time, causing harm. This is one good reason why your plants should periodically be ‘repotted.’ Buildup of such minerals can also cause unsightly deposits to form, especially on unglazed clay pots. Never water your plants with water that has been through a softening system that uses salt as a recharging agent, as these systems simply replace the “hardness” in the water with sodium ions.
Rain water is preferable to tap water, if you can manage to collect and store it.
Light
Most cacti and succulents like bright light, but not all can tolerate intense, direct sunlight, especially in conjunction with high temperatures. The intensity of the light that a plant will thrive in depends on the species. A plant that is grown in optimal light conditions will “look normal” (unstressed), and is more likely to flower than one grown in sub-optimal lighting conditions. (Keep in mind that succulents, and especially cacti, have very differing ages at which they will flower. For example, even if you give your giant Saguaro seedling (Carnegiea gigantea) conditions that are optimal in every way, you will likely not see it flower in your lifetime.)
While optimal lighting conditions depend on species, there are some general signs that indicate your plant is getting either too much or too little light:
Too much light: When your plant is getting too much light, it can appear “off color,” taking on a “bleached out” look, or turning yellow or even orangish. Keep in mind that these signs can also indicate other stresses, such as disease or too much water, so use common sense when making your diagnosis.
If your plant is moved suddenly into very bright sunlight conditions, or if the weather suddenly turns hot with abundant sunshine, your plant can scorch. This can happen very rapidly and can scar the plant for the rest of its life, so be on alert for when such a condition might occur, and take precautions to prevent scorching.
Too little light: If your plant is receiving too little light, it might etiolate and/or appear to really reach for the light source. (Etiolation is the condition where a plant becomes “drawn,” for example, a cactus plant that is normally round begins to look as if it is being stretched out from the growing point at its center). Your plant will suffer if left in such light conditions for very long. When transitioning such a plant to stronger light, keep in mind that it will be especially prone to scorching, so make the transition slowly.
Note that in most cases, it is quite normal for a plant to slowly grow toward the light. What you want to avoid is the condition where it is really reaching for the light. For example, if your columnar cactus is bent toward the window at 90°, it’s trying to tell you something.
For a potted plant that slowly grows toward the light over time, you can rotate its pot to cause it to grow in a more balanced fashion. Remember, if you do this, that the side of the plant that had not been exposed to direct sunlight for a long time might scorch if you make the transition too quickly. Be careful!
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
OK, so you just returned from the store with your first cactus plant, or perhaps you bought one of those funny looking little plants with a tag sticking in the pot that says “Assorted Succulents.” You might be asking yourself, “how do I take care of this thing?”
The first thing to realize is that the words “cacti” and “succulent” are general terms. Cacti belong to a specific family of plants, but the species within that family come from some very different habitats. Many cacti, such as those in the genus Ferocactus, are in fact true desert dwellers. Others, such as those in the genus Echinopsis, live in the grasslands of South America, those in the genus Oreocereus live in the high Andes mountains, and those in the genus Epiphyllum live in jungles and don’t even live in the ground, but upon other plants.
When talking about succulents, it gets even crazier. The term “succulent” is completely non-scientific, and basically can refer to any plant with fleshy parts (leaves, stems, or roots), usually which are adapted for storing moisture in times of drought. These plants come from all over the world and live in all different habitats.
Why do you need to know all of this? Well, the more you know about your “Assorted Succulent” or “African Zipper Plant,” the more chance you have of being successful growing it. If you are lucky enough to live in an area that has a local cactus and succulent club, visit one of their meetings, bring your plant, and be prepared to find out all kinds of things about it, like what its real name is, where plants of its type grow in the wild, and what growing conditions it likes.
If you aren’t so lucky to have a local cactus and succulent club close by, or are just too eager to get started caring for your new baby, all is not lost. There are some general rules that can be applied to those plants we call cacti and other succulents.
The first thing to realize is that the words “cacti” and “succulent” are general terms. Cacti belong to a specific family of plants, but the species within that family come from some very different habitats. Many cacti, such as those in the genus Ferocactus, are in fact true desert dwellers. Others, such as those in the genus Echinopsis, live in the grasslands of South America, those in the genus Oreocereus live in the high Andes mountains, and those in the genus Epiphyllum live in jungles and don’t even live in the ground, but upon other plants.
When talking about succulents, it gets even crazier. The term “succulent” is completely non-scientific, and basically can refer to any plant with fleshy parts (leaves, stems, or roots), usually which are adapted for storing moisture in times of drought. These plants come from all over the world and live in all different habitats.
Why do you need to know all of this? Well, the more you know about your “Assorted Succulent” or “African Zipper Plant,” the more chance you have of being successful growing it. If you are lucky enough to live in an area that has a local cactus and succulent club, visit one of their meetings, bring your plant, and be prepared to find out all kinds of things about it, like what its real name is, where plants of its type grow in the wild, and what growing conditions it likes.
If you aren’t so lucky to have a local cactus and succulent club close by, or are just too eager to get started caring for your new baby, all is not lost. There are some general rules that can be applied to those plants we call cacti and other succulents.
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1
成长记
cclecombe
2017年09月22日
This plant lost some leaves on its way home from the garden centre, so I've potted them to propagate. Hopefully new plants!!
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
A group of plants called succulents that have either fleshy stems and/or leaves are often chosen as house plants for direct light conditions. Their ability to endure drought is reflected in the succulent stem/leaf condition where water is stored. These plants come from many plant families; most notably the cactus family. Others in this group, however, come from sub-tropical areas where light conditions are less extreme and moisture is more abundant. In this second group we find the Christmas, Thanksgiving, Easter and Orchid cacti. Some refer to this group as the jungle cacti because they are found as understory plants in tropical forests.
Some succulents make good house plants because they generally do not require much care and can grow under the average conditions of the home in which we find higher temperatures and low humidity. Some varieties are slow growers and therefore, present fewer demands for care than most other house plants. If you have a southern window in your home that receives direct light and becomes fairly hot, then you might consider choosing a succulent for that spot.
Light
The cacti and succulents generally require at least 4 hours of bright, direct light each day. However, some including the jungle cacti prefer medium light intensities and should never be placed in direct light except during the winter. Overall, if you wish to move a plant which has been grown in indirect light to direct light, then this should be done gradually. The same is true if you move a plant outdoors. Even though it has been in a direct light location in the house, it will be damaged if moved directly to full sun. Moving plants to a position with filtered light such as under a tree or shade screen will prevent sunscald. This appears as a bleaching of the foliage resulting in a yellow-white color. In addition, plants receiving direct light benefit from turning periodically so that all sides are exposed. This is especially true of plants with heavy growth.
Temperature and Humidity
Most cacti and succulents tolerate the low humidities and warmth of the home. During the winter, it becomes difficult to regulate humidity because of heating. The only succulents which can be temperamental are the jungle cacti. These plants, including the Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti, require higher humidities and should be placed on a tray of moistened rocks. This condition will promote flowering and flower retention.
Temperature in the home is generally adequate to maintain cacti and succulents all year round and this makes them particularly suitable as house plants. Some, however, do much better if presented with cool conditions during the winter. This is known as a rest period. Window sills and cool basements are good sites for these plants. The light should be as bright as possible.
Watering
Overall, cacti and succulents should be watered more frequently during the period of greatest growth and this occurs between the months of March and October in the Midwest. The most frequent cause of problems with the cacti is due to overwatering. The moisture condition should be checked ever 2 to 3 weeks. This is simply done by sticking the index finger into the soil. Soil particles should not cling if conditions are dry. Also, you should become familiar with the weight of the pot at dryness and this can served as a gauge for watering. It is best to allow the pot to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Plants in full sun will naturally dry out more quickly than those in filtered light. In winter, water no more than once per month. This is a slow growth period. Overwatering at this time will result is root rot by fungal organisms. Jungle cacti should be kept evenly moist all year round, especially during the flowering period of late fall or early spring. When flowering has stopped, water should be withheld to allow the soil to dry before rewatering.
Soil
The soil mix should match the moisture requirements of the plant. This is better than trying to match the frequency of watering the soil mix. It also dictates the drainage and regulates the nutrient supply. All cacti and succulents require good drainage and the type of soil should be coarser. An appropriate soil mix for most cacti would consist of two parts sand and one part soil mix. For tropical cacti like Christmas and Easter cacti, mix one part sand with one part soil mix and one part peat. The peat will hold more moisture than is required for these plants. Sand will create the proper drainage for all cacti and succulents and by varying its content, greater or lesser moisture will be held by the mix.
Fertilization
Generally, succulents and cacti do not demand a great deal of fertilizer to grow. Amounts recommended for typical house plants should be cut back to one-quarter to one-half concentration typically recommended on the label. The time to fertilize is during the active growth phase which begins in March and ends in October. In winter, no fertilizer is necessary as this represents the dormant state where little obvious growth occurs.
Repotting and Propagation
Most cacti and succulent prefer to be pot-bound. This condition leads to more frequent flowering in the case of jungle cacti. If plants become too pot-bound and the top growth is unbalanced, they should be repotted. The size of the pot should only be about 1 inch larger in diameter than the previous one. Tall plants should be repotted in a container which is at least one-half the size in diameter as the plant is tall. The time to repot is when growth begins in the spring. Potting during the dormant stage will set the plant back because a part of the root system may be lost during the process and it will be very slow to recover.
Cacti and succulents are among the easiest to propagate because they have such a large storage system of water and nutrients and are thus, very well adapted to adverse growing conditions. Some cacti actually loose parts of their stems as an active way to self-propagate. These parts may lay dormant for over a year and become quite desiccated before new roots emerge as a response to wetter conditions. There are three forms of vegetative propagation where some part of the mother plant is removed and used to grow the new plant. This is by offset division, stem cuttings and leaf cuttings.
Although more time consuming, some cacti and succulents can be started from seed. Generally, this is not worth the trouble because it may take between 2 to 5 years to establish the new plant with such slow growth rates as characterized by these plants.
The most popular way to propagate cacti and succulents is by division. Certain cacti will produce offsets which are small bulb-like protrusions that stick out from the mother plant. These can simply be pinched off and potted after a couple days of drying at room temperature to callus over the wound. The soil should be kept damp for about 4 weeks. Check for roots by tugging at the plant. If the pot lifts with the plant, then you can be assured that it has rooted.
The other way many cacti and succulents can be propagated is by taking cuttings of stems and leaves. Plants can be cut just above a node with a sharp, clean knife. The excised part should be air dried for 2 days then potted by burying a slight portion of the plant part in a sandy/peat potting mix. In a similar way, leaf portions from some plants like Sansevieria can be cut and potted. Leaf segments for this plants should be about 2 inches long. A segment should be potted in such a way that the basal portion that was closest to the root system of the mother plant is buried in the soil mix. Roots will not form from segments that are upside-down.
Cacti and Succulents that Flower
Although it may take a number of years, most small cacti and succulents will eventually flower. Larger cacti are not frequent flower producers. Some produce a tremendous number of blossoms over a short period and some only produce one or two. Additionally, some plants only produce flowers at night which last a single 24-hour period. Others bloom in full sun.
The most prized flowering plants in this class are the jungle cacti. These plants are native to shaded tropical forest floors and, therefore, do not fair well under intense light. Flowers are initiated when the day length becomes short as would occur in early winter and spring. The famous Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are two such plants which respond to short days. These plants should be placed in a window which receives indirect light. They do best when they become pot-bound and the soil moisture is evenly maintained. Changing conditions in the middle of the flower response will surely result in bud drop, a condition which plagues many indoor gardeners.
Some succulents make good house plants because they generally do not require much care and can grow under the average conditions of the home in which we find higher temperatures and low humidity. Some varieties are slow growers and therefore, present fewer demands for care than most other house plants. If you have a southern window in your home that receives direct light and becomes fairly hot, then you might consider choosing a succulent for that spot.
Light
The cacti and succulents generally require at least 4 hours of bright, direct light each day. However, some including the jungle cacti prefer medium light intensities and should never be placed in direct light except during the winter. Overall, if you wish to move a plant which has been grown in indirect light to direct light, then this should be done gradually. The same is true if you move a plant outdoors. Even though it has been in a direct light location in the house, it will be damaged if moved directly to full sun. Moving plants to a position with filtered light such as under a tree or shade screen will prevent sunscald. This appears as a bleaching of the foliage resulting in a yellow-white color. In addition, plants receiving direct light benefit from turning periodically so that all sides are exposed. This is especially true of plants with heavy growth.
Temperature and Humidity
Most cacti and succulents tolerate the low humidities and warmth of the home. During the winter, it becomes difficult to regulate humidity because of heating. The only succulents which can be temperamental are the jungle cacti. These plants, including the Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti, require higher humidities and should be placed on a tray of moistened rocks. This condition will promote flowering and flower retention.
Temperature in the home is generally adequate to maintain cacti and succulents all year round and this makes them particularly suitable as house plants. Some, however, do much better if presented with cool conditions during the winter. This is known as a rest period. Window sills and cool basements are good sites for these plants. The light should be as bright as possible.
Watering
Overall, cacti and succulents should be watered more frequently during the period of greatest growth and this occurs between the months of March and October in the Midwest. The most frequent cause of problems with the cacti is due to overwatering. The moisture condition should be checked ever 2 to 3 weeks. This is simply done by sticking the index finger into the soil. Soil particles should not cling if conditions are dry. Also, you should become familiar with the weight of the pot at dryness and this can served as a gauge for watering. It is best to allow the pot to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Plants in full sun will naturally dry out more quickly than those in filtered light. In winter, water no more than once per month. This is a slow growth period. Overwatering at this time will result is root rot by fungal organisms. Jungle cacti should be kept evenly moist all year round, especially during the flowering period of late fall or early spring. When flowering has stopped, water should be withheld to allow the soil to dry before rewatering.
Soil
The soil mix should match the moisture requirements of the plant. This is better than trying to match the frequency of watering the soil mix. It also dictates the drainage and regulates the nutrient supply. All cacti and succulents require good drainage and the type of soil should be coarser. An appropriate soil mix for most cacti would consist of two parts sand and one part soil mix. For tropical cacti like Christmas and Easter cacti, mix one part sand with one part soil mix and one part peat. The peat will hold more moisture than is required for these plants. Sand will create the proper drainage for all cacti and succulents and by varying its content, greater or lesser moisture will be held by the mix.
Fertilization
Generally, succulents and cacti do not demand a great deal of fertilizer to grow. Amounts recommended for typical house plants should be cut back to one-quarter to one-half concentration typically recommended on the label. The time to fertilize is during the active growth phase which begins in March and ends in October. In winter, no fertilizer is necessary as this represents the dormant state where little obvious growth occurs.
Repotting and Propagation
Most cacti and succulent prefer to be pot-bound. This condition leads to more frequent flowering in the case of jungle cacti. If plants become too pot-bound and the top growth is unbalanced, they should be repotted. The size of the pot should only be about 1 inch larger in diameter than the previous one. Tall plants should be repotted in a container which is at least one-half the size in diameter as the plant is tall. The time to repot is when growth begins in the spring. Potting during the dormant stage will set the plant back because a part of the root system may be lost during the process and it will be very slow to recover.
Cacti and succulents are among the easiest to propagate because they have such a large storage system of water and nutrients and are thus, very well adapted to adverse growing conditions. Some cacti actually loose parts of their stems as an active way to self-propagate. These parts may lay dormant for over a year and become quite desiccated before new roots emerge as a response to wetter conditions. There are three forms of vegetative propagation where some part of the mother plant is removed and used to grow the new plant. This is by offset division, stem cuttings and leaf cuttings.
Although more time consuming, some cacti and succulents can be started from seed. Generally, this is not worth the trouble because it may take between 2 to 5 years to establish the new plant with such slow growth rates as characterized by these plants.
The most popular way to propagate cacti and succulents is by division. Certain cacti will produce offsets which are small bulb-like protrusions that stick out from the mother plant. These can simply be pinched off and potted after a couple days of drying at room temperature to callus over the wound. The soil should be kept damp for about 4 weeks. Check for roots by tugging at the plant. If the pot lifts with the plant, then you can be assured that it has rooted.
The other way many cacti and succulents can be propagated is by taking cuttings of stems and leaves. Plants can be cut just above a node with a sharp, clean knife. The excised part should be air dried for 2 days then potted by burying a slight portion of the plant part in a sandy/peat potting mix. In a similar way, leaf portions from some plants like Sansevieria can be cut and potted. Leaf segments for this plants should be about 2 inches long. A segment should be potted in such a way that the basal portion that was closest to the root system of the mother plant is buried in the soil mix. Roots will not form from segments that are upside-down.
Cacti and Succulents that Flower
Although it may take a number of years, most small cacti and succulents will eventually flower. Larger cacti are not frequent flower producers. Some produce a tremendous number of blossoms over a short period and some only produce one or two. Additionally, some plants only produce flowers at night which last a single 24-hour period. Others bloom in full sun.
The most prized flowering plants in this class are the jungle cacti. These plants are native to shaded tropical forest floors and, therefore, do not fair well under intense light. Flowers are initiated when the day length becomes short as would occur in early winter and spring. The famous Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are two such plants which respond to short days. These plants should be placed in a window which receives indirect light. They do best when they become pot-bound and the soil moisture is evenly maintained. Changing conditions in the middle of the flower response will surely result in bud drop, a condition which plagues many indoor gardeners.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
The genus Echinocactus (Barrel Cactus) includes about six species of barrel cacti that are native to Mexico and the southeastern United States. These are true desert plants that cannot handle any humidity or standing water to grow. The most common among these plants are almost perfectly round when juvenile, so therefore make excellent display plants. They are also highly attractive with their rows of spines of their deeply ribbed lobes.
As they grow, it’s not uncommon for them to stretch out so they look more like ovals than circles. As with most cacti, the secret to their successful growth indoors is nearly perfect drainage, as opposed to letting them dry out.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Barrel Cactus do best in a very sunny window, perhaps a southern exposure. Plants that do not get enough sunlight will grow more slowly and fail to thrive.
Water: Water infrequently and ensure that the soil drains completely. Do not leave any water sitting in the tray or allow them to sit in water. They are very prone to root rot.
Soil: A cactus soil mix is ideal. If you use a reagular peat-based mix, be sure to add sand or extra perlite to enhance drainage and repot the plant when the soil begins to break down..
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid cactus fertilizer throughout the growing season.
Propagation
Barrel Cactus are typically propagated by seed. Mature cactus will bloom in the summer with flowers that grow in whorls around the top of the plant.
To seed a cactus, plant the seeds shallowly in a cactus mix and keep them warm and very slightly moist.
Repotting
It’s best to repot in the beginning of the growing season, or summer. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Overall, these are very attractive cacti for dish gardens or indoor display. A collection of them is especially attractive, as they look like a collection of balls tossed upon the ground. It’s critical, however, to never let these cactus be exposed to prolonged periods in water, or even very high humidity. They will suffer from rot in the presence of humidity. Echinocactus are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the leave toxic option.
As they grow, it’s not uncommon for them to stretch out so they look more like ovals than circles. As with most cacti, the secret to their successful growth indoors is nearly perfect drainage, as opposed to letting them dry out.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Barrel Cactus do best in a very sunny window, perhaps a southern exposure. Plants that do not get enough sunlight will grow more slowly and fail to thrive.
Water: Water infrequently and ensure that the soil drains completely. Do not leave any water sitting in the tray or allow them to sit in water. They are very prone to root rot.
Soil: A cactus soil mix is ideal. If you use a reagular peat-based mix, be sure to add sand or extra perlite to enhance drainage and repot the plant when the soil begins to break down..
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid cactus fertilizer throughout the growing season.
Propagation
Barrel Cactus are typically propagated by seed. Mature cactus will bloom in the summer with flowers that grow in whorls around the top of the plant.
To seed a cactus, plant the seeds shallowly in a cactus mix and keep them warm and very slightly moist.
Repotting
It’s best to repot in the beginning of the growing season, or summer. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Overall, these are very attractive cacti for dish gardens or indoor display. A collection of them is especially attractive, as they look like a collection of balls tossed upon the ground. It’s critical, however, to never let these cactus be exposed to prolonged periods in water, or even very high humidity. They will suffer from rot in the presence of humidity. Echinocactus are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the leave toxic option.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Euphorbia is a very large genus of plants, with over 2,000 species. About 1,200 of them are succulents, some with bizarre shapes and wide fleshy leaves and others that look remarkably like cacti, complete with spines. Among the the non-succulent deciduous Euphorbia plants are shrubs, annuals, and perennials like milkweed and the popular holiday plant, Poinsettia.
Euphorbias are popular as popular for their structural intrigue as for their drought tolerance. Use the tall angular varieties for focal points and the floppy or chain-like species to spill over containers or walls. Many succulents have infrequent or inconsequential blooms, but Euphorbias will provide color in dry gardens for long periods of time. Mixing them with groupings of Senecio and Agave will create a garden full of texture and leaves of gray, blue, yellow and deep green.
Euphorbias are very easy to care for. They require a little pampering to become established, but once they are, they are self-sufficient. In fact, more die from too much care and watering than from neglect.
Growing Conditions
Soil: Euphorbias need well-draining soil and lots of sunlight. They are not particular about soil pH, but they cannot tolerant wet soil.
Water: Unlike most succulents, Euphorbia does not handle long periods of drought well. It may need weekly watering during the summer. Water whenever the soil is dry several inches below the surface. Water deeply, but don’t let them sit in wet soil, which can cause root rot.
Feeding: Add some organic matter or fertilizer to the planting hole. If you are growing them in containers or your soil is poor, feed with a half-strength fertilizer monthly.
Propagating
Euphorbia can be grown from seed, but they can be difficult to germinate (or even find). It is usually propagated by cuttings. This can be tricky, because of the exuding sap. Rooting hormone is recommended with Euphorbias.
Pests and Problems
Euphorbia plants tend to grow problem free, but there are a few pests and diseases to be alert for:
Mealy Bugs and Spider Mites are the most common pests. Catching them early is your pest chance for controlling them.
Root Rot was mentioned above. It is only a problem when plants are allowed to sit in wet soil.
Powdery Mildew – Although Euphorbia like humidity, they also need good air circulation or they will be susceptible to mildews. Try correcting the cultural conditions first, because strong fungicides can harm leaves.
Euphorbias are popular as popular for their structural intrigue as for their drought tolerance. Use the tall angular varieties for focal points and the floppy or chain-like species to spill over containers or walls. Many succulents have infrequent or inconsequential blooms, but Euphorbias will provide color in dry gardens for long periods of time. Mixing them with groupings of Senecio and Agave will create a garden full of texture and leaves of gray, blue, yellow and deep green.
Euphorbias are very easy to care for. They require a little pampering to become established, but once they are, they are self-sufficient. In fact, more die from too much care and watering than from neglect.
Growing Conditions
Soil: Euphorbias need well-draining soil and lots of sunlight. They are not particular about soil pH, but they cannot tolerant wet soil.
Water: Unlike most succulents, Euphorbia does not handle long periods of drought well. It may need weekly watering during the summer. Water whenever the soil is dry several inches below the surface. Water deeply, but don’t let them sit in wet soil, which can cause root rot.
Feeding: Add some organic matter or fertilizer to the planting hole. If you are growing them in containers or your soil is poor, feed with a half-strength fertilizer monthly.
Propagating
Euphorbia can be grown from seed, but they can be difficult to germinate (or even find). It is usually propagated by cuttings. This can be tricky, because of the exuding sap. Rooting hormone is recommended with Euphorbias.
Pests and Problems
Euphorbia plants tend to grow problem free, but there are a few pests and diseases to be alert for:
Mealy Bugs and Spider Mites are the most common pests. Catching them early is your pest chance for controlling them.
Root Rot was mentioned above. It is only a problem when plants are allowed to sit in wet soil.
Powdery Mildew – Although Euphorbia like humidity, they also need good air circulation or they will be susceptible to mildews. Try correcting the cultural conditions first, because strong fungicides can harm leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
The Mammillaria genus is generally found in the southwest United States and Mexico, with some spread into the Caribbean. This huge genus of plants contains at least 275 species of highly variable form, and thus are highly prized among collectors. Mammillaria are common cacti at shows, as well as ordinary garden centers, both for their appearance and their desirable traits in cultivation. Although this genus does include some very difficult plants to maintain, the most common ones are usually very easy and will stay small enough and grow slow enough to provide years of enjoyment.
When they do flower, many species flower with a “crown” of flowers that surrounds the top of the plant like a wreath.
Growing Conditions
Light: Mammillaria species appreciate strong light, but many species dislike more than four hours of direct summer sunlight. Provide bright, even light for the best results.
Water: Allow the soil mix to become nearly dry between waterings, but then water thoroughly. Immaculate drainage is essential, so never let the pots sit in water. Suspend watering in the winter, but mist occasionally.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Mammillaria cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. To propagate, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut to dry on a paper towel for a few days. Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface.
Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Mammillaria without too much trouble. To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and suspend watering. Unlike many other cacti, which use their ribs as storage devices, the Mammillaria feature raised tubercles, from which spines emerge. When you water, the tubercles will expand to allow for increased water storage. The flowers emerge from the axils of these tubercles on the previous year’s growth, which accounts for their interesting halo effect. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
When they do flower, many species flower with a “crown” of flowers that surrounds the top of the plant like a wreath.
Growing Conditions
Light: Mammillaria species appreciate strong light, but many species dislike more than four hours of direct summer sunlight. Provide bright, even light for the best results.
Water: Allow the soil mix to become nearly dry between waterings, but then water thoroughly. Immaculate drainage is essential, so never let the pots sit in water. Suspend watering in the winter, but mist occasionally.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Mammillaria cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. To propagate, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut to dry on a paper towel for a few days. Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface.
Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Mammillaria without too much trouble. To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and suspend watering. Unlike many other cacti, which use their ribs as storage devices, the Mammillaria feature raised tubercles, from which spines emerge. When you water, the tubercles will expand to allow for increased water storage. The flowers emerge from the axils of these tubercles on the previous year’s growth, which accounts for their interesting halo effect. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
The genus Kalanchoe includes more than 100 plants, but only a few are regularly seen in cultivation. Kalanchoes are native to arid areas, and they are popular succulents. Modern hybrids are valued for their interesting leaf-forms or for their flowers.
Flowering Kalanchoes are available in red, pink, yellow, or white. Like many succulents, these are not difficult plants to grow, providing you are careful with the water, especially in the winter.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer bright, sunny locations, especially in the summer growing season. During the winter, consider a south-facing window.
Water: Water moderately throughout the summer and reduce watering in the winter. Let the soil surface dry out between waterings, and in the winter, the plant can almost dry out. Watch the fleshy leaves for signs of water distress.
Temperature: They prefer warmth. Do not let fall below 55ºF (12.7ºC).
Soil: An ordinary potting soil mix is fine.
Fertilizer: Feed bi-weekly in the summer with a liquid fertilizer, or use slow-release pellets.
Propagation
Many kinds of Kalanchoe will produce tiny plantlets along the leaf margins that can be individually potted up. These types include The Air Plant (K. pinnata) and K. beharensis. The more popular K. blossfeldiana and K. manginii can be propagated by leaf cutting or tip.
Grower’s Tips
Kalanchoes are not particularly hard to grow, and the flowering varieties (K. blossfeldiana) are highly rewarding for their colorful and long-lasting flowers. Many people discard the plants after the bloom is over, but this isn’t really necessary. Simply cut off the flowering head, let the plant rest with reduced water, and resume its normal care. It should flower naturally in spring. Professional growers force Kalanchoes to bloom throughout the year (they are a short-day plant). The two pendant Kalanchoes make excellent hanging plants.
Flowering Kalanchoes are available in red, pink, yellow, or white. Like many succulents, these are not difficult plants to grow, providing you are careful with the water, especially in the winter.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer bright, sunny locations, especially in the summer growing season. During the winter, consider a south-facing window.
Water: Water moderately throughout the summer and reduce watering in the winter. Let the soil surface dry out between waterings, and in the winter, the plant can almost dry out. Watch the fleshy leaves for signs of water distress.
Temperature: They prefer warmth. Do not let fall below 55ºF (12.7ºC).
Soil: An ordinary potting soil mix is fine.
Fertilizer: Feed bi-weekly in the summer with a liquid fertilizer, or use slow-release pellets.
Propagation
Many kinds of Kalanchoe will produce tiny plantlets along the leaf margins that can be individually potted up. These types include The Air Plant (K. pinnata) and K. beharensis. The more popular K. blossfeldiana and K. manginii can be propagated by leaf cutting or tip.
Grower’s Tips
Kalanchoes are not particularly hard to grow, and the flowering varieties (K. blossfeldiana) are highly rewarding for their colorful and long-lasting flowers. Many people discard the plants after the bloom is over, but this isn’t really necessary. Simply cut off the flowering head, let the plant rest with reduced water, and resume its normal care. It should flower naturally in spring. Professional growers force Kalanchoes to bloom throughout the year (they are a short-day plant). The two pendant Kalanchoes make excellent hanging plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Graptopetalum is a small genus of the family Crassulaceae. They are perennial succulent plants and native to Mexico and Arizona. Their leaves vary in colour from silver-grey to pink to waxy green, and are often speckled. They all have thick leaves forming rosettes with star-shaped flowers from white to pink on long stems. All require lots of sun to look their best. They are similar looking to Echeverias, although they are generally considered closer to Sedums.
Growing Conditions
The rules for Graptopetalums care are similar to those for most succulents. Container-bound plants thrive in a mixture of peat, sand or other grit, topsoil and a little bit of compost. Full sun is the best situation but they will also grow in partial sun with slightly rangy results.
Graptopetalums need excellent drainage and moderate water. You can tell when to water by sticking your finger in the soil. If it is dry several inches down or the fleshy leaves are looking shriveled, you should water. Overwatering is a cause of root rots and the plant can get several pest infestations.
Propagation
The Graptopetalums are generally easy to propagate, by seeds, leaf cuttings or offsets. Any rosette that breaks off has the potential to root and start a new plant. Even a leaf that drops off will root below the parent plant and produce a new rosette quickly. The new plant feeds off the leaf until it shrivels up and falls off. By then the new little ghost plant has rooted and sprouted new leaves.
Grower’s Tips
Summer growers. Graptopetalums require gritty porous soil with excellent drainage. Water regularly over the summer months letting the soil dry out between waterings. Minimal water is required over winter. Fertlize once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to ¼ strength. All do best in sun or part sun excluding Graptopetalum bellum which prefers light shade.
Growing Conditions
The rules for Graptopetalums care are similar to those for most succulents. Container-bound plants thrive in a mixture of peat, sand or other grit, topsoil and a little bit of compost. Full sun is the best situation but they will also grow in partial sun with slightly rangy results.
Graptopetalums need excellent drainage and moderate water. You can tell when to water by sticking your finger in the soil. If it is dry several inches down or the fleshy leaves are looking shriveled, you should water. Overwatering is a cause of root rots and the plant can get several pest infestations.
Propagation
The Graptopetalums are generally easy to propagate, by seeds, leaf cuttings or offsets. Any rosette that breaks off has the potential to root and start a new plant. Even a leaf that drops off will root below the parent plant and produce a new rosette quickly. The new plant feeds off the leaf until it shrivels up and falls off. By then the new little ghost plant has rooted and sprouted new leaves.
Grower’s Tips
Summer growers. Graptopetalums require gritty porous soil with excellent drainage. Water regularly over the summer months letting the soil dry out between waterings. Minimal water is required over winter. Fertlize once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to ¼ strength. All do best in sun or part sun excluding Graptopetalum bellum which prefers light shade.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Living Stones (Lithops) are unusual succulents that have evolved to resemble the pebbles and rocks that litter their native habitats through southern Africa. These very small plants hug the ground and grow extremely slowly. It can take years for a plant to eventually fill its pots with new leaves. Structurally, Lithops are comprised of two fused leaves above ground that connect to an underground stem with a long root.
The leaves are extremely thick and the degree of fusion depends on the species. Some species appear to be a single leaf, with hardly any evidence of the leaf fusion, while others are deeply lobed to the level of the soil. These plants are great collectibles, but require a careful hand with the water. Too much water and the leaves will burst or the plant will die from beneath. If you provide them with good conditions, they will flower in mid-to late summer with white and yellow daisy-like flowers that emerge from between the leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lithops thrive in full sunlight, so provide as much light as possible. Weak light will cause elongated leaves and washed out patterns on the leaves.
Water: Lithops have a definite annual cycle that should be carefully followed. In the summer, as the plants are dormant, it is okay to lightly water them if the leaves shrivel. In general, plants should not be watered during their summer dormancy or during the winter.
Temperature: Warm in summer (household temperatures are fine) and colder in winter months (down to 55˚F/13˚C at night).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer is not necessary.
Propagation
Most Lithops species can be propagated from seeds. Seedlings typically take two to three years to reach maturity and begin flowering.
Repotting
Lithops are very slow growing, small plants, which makes them ideal as houseplants (once you get the hang of their watering schedule). Older plants form attractive clumps of “pebbles” in their pots, which are highly prized. In general, plants should only be repotted if there are cultural problems (soggy soil) or the plant has outgrown its dish container, which will only happen every several years.
Grower’s Tips
Lithops develop a new set of leaves every year, with new leaves emerging in the fall and growing through the winter and into the summer. In late summer, the plant will go dormant and water should be severely restricted to prevent bursting leaves. The flowers appear near the end of summer or fall, first showing up as a small bud forcing its way between the leaves and growth will begin again. It’s safe to water during this period. Heading into the winter, the leaves will still be growing, but you should stop watering, even as the older leaves shrivel up and encase the new growth. In the spring, it’s safe to begin lightly watering again as the plant begins to grow again, heading toward their summer dormancy period and the emergence of new leaves in the fall.
The leaves are extremely thick and the degree of fusion depends on the species. Some species appear to be a single leaf, with hardly any evidence of the leaf fusion, while others are deeply lobed to the level of the soil. These plants are great collectibles, but require a careful hand with the water. Too much water and the leaves will burst or the plant will die from beneath. If you provide them with good conditions, they will flower in mid-to late summer with white and yellow daisy-like flowers that emerge from between the leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lithops thrive in full sunlight, so provide as much light as possible. Weak light will cause elongated leaves and washed out patterns on the leaves.
Water: Lithops have a definite annual cycle that should be carefully followed. In the summer, as the plants are dormant, it is okay to lightly water them if the leaves shrivel. In general, plants should not be watered during their summer dormancy or during the winter.
Temperature: Warm in summer (household temperatures are fine) and colder in winter months (down to 55˚F/13˚C at night).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer is not necessary.
Propagation
Most Lithops species can be propagated from seeds. Seedlings typically take two to three years to reach maturity and begin flowering.
Repotting
Lithops are very slow growing, small plants, which makes them ideal as houseplants (once you get the hang of their watering schedule). Older plants form attractive clumps of “pebbles” in their pots, which are highly prized. In general, plants should only be repotted if there are cultural problems (soggy soil) or the plant has outgrown its dish container, which will only happen every several years.
Grower’s Tips
Lithops develop a new set of leaves every year, with new leaves emerging in the fall and growing through the winter and into the summer. In late summer, the plant will go dormant and water should be severely restricted to prevent bursting leaves. The flowers appear near the end of summer or fall, first showing up as a small bud forcing its way between the leaves and growth will begin again. It’s safe to water during this period. Heading into the winter, the leaves will still be growing, but you should stop watering, even as the older leaves shrivel up and encase the new growth. In the spring, it’s safe to begin lightly watering again as the plant begins to grow again, heading toward their summer dormancy period and the emergence of new leaves in the fall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Lifesaver plants are actually not members of the cactus family, although the tubercles — warty protuberances — that line the stem ridges can resemble the fierce spines that protect cacti. Lifesaver plants belong to the genus Huernia, low-growing succulents that are native to deserts from Southern and East Africa to Arabia. The common name comes from the conspicuous raised brightly colored ring that surrounds the middle of the star-shaped flower and resembles a red Lifesaver candy. Not all Huernias have this feature.
General Cultivation
Lifesaver plants can be grown as intriguing indoor, greenhouse or summer patio container plants almost anywhere. Species such as Huernia zebrina, Huernia pillansii, Huernia keniensis and Huernia primulina can be grown in outdoor landscapes in warm-winter and Mediterranean climates. Protect outdoor plants from frost and rain during winter and full sun in summer. Plant enthusiasts worldwide grow Huernias because of their interesting stem shapes and colors and because of the often intricate and fascinating flower forms and colors.
Soil Conditions
Huernias require a potting mix with excellent drainage. A succulent plant mix of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25 percent sand helps prevent rotting and overwatering. Roots experience dieback in cool-season dormancy, so plants grow best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out quickly. Using clay pots further helps soil from staying too wet. An underlayment of coarse gravel below the soil mix also improves drainage. In climates with damp cool summers, a layer of gravel between the plant and the soil mix also helps prevent the stems from staying too moist. Outdoor plantings do well in raised beds.
Light and Temperature
Lifesaver plants prefer bright light or partial shade. In nature, they grow underneath shrubs or other plants. Too much sun causes stems to develop protective reddish or purple pigmentation and can actually scald the stems. Too little light leads to weak, thin growth with decreased flower production. Huernias grow best between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 27 degrees Celsius). Protect them from freezing weather. They can tolerate down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.5 degrees Celsius) when dormant if they are kept dry and temperatures over 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius) if not in full sun.
Watering
Plants should be kept dry during the winter dormant season. When Huernias are actively growing, they need to be watered. Allow the soil to dry out one inch down the container between waterings. In regions with highly mineralized water, use rainwater or water from reverse osmosis units to prevent buildup of minerals in the soil.
Fertilizing
During the growing season, high-phosphorous, low nitrogen fertilizers can be applied at half-strength once a month. Alternatively, blood meal and bone meal can be mixed into potting soil in small amounts at the beginning of the growing season. No fertilizers should be given during the dormant season.
Pests
Mealybugs are the most serious threat to plant health. These insects suck the sap from the plant stems and roots and can seriously weaken or kill the lifesaver plants. Control the mealybugs with systemic insecticides. Examine plants weekly for signs of infestation and treat promptly. Keep plants from becoming too crowded so stems can be easily seen.
General Cultivation
Lifesaver plants can be grown as intriguing indoor, greenhouse or summer patio container plants almost anywhere. Species such as Huernia zebrina, Huernia pillansii, Huernia keniensis and Huernia primulina can be grown in outdoor landscapes in warm-winter and Mediterranean climates. Protect outdoor plants from frost and rain during winter and full sun in summer. Plant enthusiasts worldwide grow Huernias because of their interesting stem shapes and colors and because of the often intricate and fascinating flower forms and colors.
Soil Conditions
Huernias require a potting mix with excellent drainage. A succulent plant mix of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25 percent sand helps prevent rotting and overwatering. Roots experience dieback in cool-season dormancy, so plants grow best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out quickly. Using clay pots further helps soil from staying too wet. An underlayment of coarse gravel below the soil mix also improves drainage. In climates with damp cool summers, a layer of gravel between the plant and the soil mix also helps prevent the stems from staying too moist. Outdoor plantings do well in raised beds.
Light and Temperature
Lifesaver plants prefer bright light or partial shade. In nature, they grow underneath shrubs or other plants. Too much sun causes stems to develop protective reddish or purple pigmentation and can actually scald the stems. Too little light leads to weak, thin growth with decreased flower production. Huernias grow best between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 27 degrees Celsius). Protect them from freezing weather. They can tolerate down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.5 degrees Celsius) when dormant if they are kept dry and temperatures over 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius) if not in full sun.
Watering
Plants should be kept dry during the winter dormant season. When Huernias are actively growing, they need to be watered. Allow the soil to dry out one inch down the container between waterings. In regions with highly mineralized water, use rainwater or water from reverse osmosis units to prevent buildup of minerals in the soil.
Fertilizing
During the growing season, high-phosphorous, low nitrogen fertilizers can be applied at half-strength once a month. Alternatively, blood meal and bone meal can be mixed into potting soil in small amounts at the beginning of the growing season. No fertilizers should be given during the dormant season.
Pests
Mealybugs are the most serious threat to plant health. These insects suck the sap from the plant stems and roots and can seriously weaken or kill the lifesaver plants. Control the mealybugs with systemic insecticides. Examine plants weekly for signs of infestation and treat promptly. Keep plants from becoming too crowded so stems can be easily seen.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Avid gardeners know that growing plants is a fine art. Many succulents are extremely hardy because they have fleshy parts in their structure to retain water, which makes them well suited to dry areas that receive little rain. However, they still require tender care and careful maintenance to achieve a splendid, healthy appearance. Both novice and more experienced gardeners can benefit from tips that help them to grow healthy succulents.
1. Use the sun
Succulents may be hardy, but they still like plenty of sunshine because they are desert plants. Gardeners should always place succulents on a sun porch or in a greenhouse so that the plants get plenty of natural light. If growing them indoors, succulents should be placed as close to a large window as possible, and ideally one that faces the direction that the sun rises for maximise exposure.
2. Take succulents outside
A lack of sunlight is the biggest threat to plants, including succulents. If gardeners want to grow succulents indoors but find that an acceptable level of sunlight is not reaching the plants, they should simply move them outside for a couple of days each week. This helps succulents to reach their full potential.
3. Give succulents some space
As sunlight is so important to succulents, allowing the plants ample breathing space is an essential part of ensuring that they remain healthy. It is important to move succulents if there is any danger that other plants may block precious sunlight. Placing succulents in a separate area is another solution.
4. Ease off pruning
Succulents grow slowly and many never require any pruning. Gardeners should allow their plants to grow naturally and use secateurs only when absolutely necessary. For example, when space is at a premium and the foliage from one succulent prevents sunlight from reaching another plant.
5. Put down the watering can
Contrary to popular belief, succulents need no more water than other plants and often require less than others that are popular in temperate climates. They have thick stems and leaves that store water efficiently, which is why they often need less frequent watering. In general, gardeners should water succulents when the plants are visibly dry.
6. Pay attention to drainage and fertilizer
The soil that works best for many plants is not always best for succulents, which thrive in porous soil that drains quickly and easily. Mixing ordinary healthy soil with sand at a ratio of around 30/70 ensures that the soil around the plant does not store too much water. Succulents also require less fertilizer than many other plants. A low-balanced soluble fertilizer delivered at half or a quarter of the quantity for ordinary plants is sufficient.
7. Choose green succulents
Succulents often prove to be a challenge for new gardeners, so it is always best to start by growing green succulents, such as cacti, Agave, or Aloe plants. These are some of the hardiest varieties and do well indoors if placed next to a large window.
8. Kill pests
As with all plants, bugs and pests can damage succulents quickly. Gardeners must check plants for insect infestation thoroughly and regularly, and get rid of pests as quickly as possible. Watering sparingly is a good way to avoid gnats. A natural pesticide that is not harmful to houseplants is also beneficial.
9. Keep succulents warm
Succulents are easy to maintain and tolerant to drought, but healthy succulents do not survive even a light frost. As succulents are not suited to colder climates that sometimes occur in mountainous regions, gardeners in these areas must keep these plants indoors during winter.
10. Avoid ornate pots
Correct drainage and preventing water storage is vital for succulents, so ornate plant pots with no holes at the bottom can cause problems. Simple clay or plastic plant pots allow better drainage than glass or metal.
1. Use the sun
Succulents may be hardy, but they still like plenty of sunshine because they are desert plants. Gardeners should always place succulents on a sun porch or in a greenhouse so that the plants get plenty of natural light. If growing them indoors, succulents should be placed as close to a large window as possible, and ideally one that faces the direction that the sun rises for maximise exposure.
2. Take succulents outside
A lack of sunlight is the biggest threat to plants, including succulents. If gardeners want to grow succulents indoors but find that an acceptable level of sunlight is not reaching the plants, they should simply move them outside for a couple of days each week. This helps succulents to reach their full potential.
3. Give succulents some space
As sunlight is so important to succulents, allowing the plants ample breathing space is an essential part of ensuring that they remain healthy. It is important to move succulents if there is any danger that other plants may block precious sunlight. Placing succulents in a separate area is another solution.
4. Ease off pruning
Succulents grow slowly and many never require any pruning. Gardeners should allow their plants to grow naturally and use secateurs only when absolutely necessary. For example, when space is at a premium and the foliage from one succulent prevents sunlight from reaching another plant.
5. Put down the watering can
Contrary to popular belief, succulents need no more water than other plants and often require less than others that are popular in temperate climates. They have thick stems and leaves that store water efficiently, which is why they often need less frequent watering. In general, gardeners should water succulents when the plants are visibly dry.
6. Pay attention to drainage and fertilizer
The soil that works best for many plants is not always best for succulents, which thrive in porous soil that drains quickly and easily. Mixing ordinary healthy soil with sand at a ratio of around 30/70 ensures that the soil around the plant does not store too much water. Succulents also require less fertilizer than many other plants. A low-balanced soluble fertilizer delivered at half or a quarter of the quantity for ordinary plants is sufficient.
7. Choose green succulents
Succulents often prove to be a challenge for new gardeners, so it is always best to start by growing green succulents, such as cacti, Agave, or Aloe plants. These are some of the hardiest varieties and do well indoors if placed next to a large window.
8. Kill pests
As with all plants, bugs and pests can damage succulents quickly. Gardeners must check plants for insect infestation thoroughly and regularly, and get rid of pests as quickly as possible. Watering sparingly is a good way to avoid gnats. A natural pesticide that is not harmful to houseplants is also beneficial.
9. Keep succulents warm
Succulents are easy to maintain and tolerant to drought, but healthy succulents do not survive even a light frost. As succulents are not suited to colder climates that sometimes occur in mountainous regions, gardeners in these areas must keep these plants indoors during winter.
10. Avoid ornate pots
Correct drainage and preventing water storage is vital for succulents, so ornate plant pots with no holes at the bottom can cause problems. Simple clay or plastic plant pots allow better drainage than glass or metal.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
With plants, as with people, there are savers and there are spenders. Where water is the currency, succulents are the thriftiest of their kind, their fleshy leaves hoarding water for times of drought. This built-in resiliency makes them a perfect choice for problem places in the yard: patio containers set in blazing sun, windy spots that make roses wither, rocky slopes where grass won’t grow. Gardeners in the arid West have been using succulents in water-thrifty xeriscapes for years. Now more nurseries across the country are carrying these intriguing plants, some of which grow well even in damp or cold climates.
John Spain, a Connecticut-based gardening expert who pioneered ways of growing succulents outdoors in the frozen north, discovered their advantages years ago, when he often traveled for business. “The only plants that survived without any care in my makeshift greenhouse were the succulents and cacti,” he says. “I would leave for a month, and they’d be fine.” That sent him searching for more cold-hardy succulents. He found enough to fill a 20-foot (6 m)-long berm with a carpetlike tapestry of leaves in green, chartreuse, rose, purple, and even nearly black. Today he also tucks succulents among alpine plants in his 2,000-square-foot rock garden.
A Size and Shape for Every Situation
At least 60 plant families have some succulent species. The adaptations that these plants have made to hold on to moisture make them especially interesting garden specimens. Ground-hugging rosettes pack water into thick, pointed leaves that hybridizers have edged with ribbons of color or rose-petal-like frills. Some species have a swollen stem known as a caudex that serves as a water storage tank. Others resemble cacti, complete with ridged stems and spiky thorns.
Among the most familiar succulents are Sedums, including that perennial favorite Sedum spectabile ‘Autumn Joy,’ which grows 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) tall and bears dramatic rosy-red flower heads in late summer. Another Sedum, Two-Row Stonecrop (Sedum spurium) is a low-maintenance groundcover with fine foliage and white, pink, or purple flowers in summer. Low-growing Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’ has yellow blooms.
Another groundcover, Ice Plant (Delosperma spp.) has tiny, fingerlike fleshy leaves and blooms in full sun with masses of daisylike flowers all summer. Delosperma nubigenum is a noninvasive type that bears yellow blooms.
Hens and Chicks—the common name for the similar-looking but unrelated Echeveria x imbricata and the more cold-hardy Sempervivum tectorum—is a longtime favorite for containers, rock gardens, and growing in the crevices of stone walls. Sempervivum‘s ground-hugging rosettes can be green, red, chartreuse, or purple to silvery blue in color. Echeverias come in rose, green, gray, and mauve, often with a contrasting edge color or a stripe. Both multiply without much effort, sending out shoots with their progeny attached; these may root on their own if they are in contact with soil. Otherwise, they can easily be detached and rooted.
Desert-loving Yuccas, Agaves, and Aloes, with their swordlike and strappy leaves with sharp tips, add a sculptural element to any garden. Though these large-scale specimen plants have long been associated with the dry Southwest, there are hardy varieties that withstand below-freezing temperatures.
That indoor classic, the treelike Jade Plant (Crassula ovata), is another favorite for outdoor containers—though it is not hardy in cold climates. In the same family, Baby Becklace (Crassula rupestris x perforata) looks like a string of beads or buttons.
The lesser-known, multistemmed Aeoniums bear striking rosettes, sometimes variegated, in shades of green, red, and blackish purple, at the ends of their branches. Equally good as container and garden specimens, these generally grow 18 inches to 3 feet (45 to 90 cm) tall and 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 cm) wide. They don’t tolerate freezing temperatures, however, so they need to winter indoors in cold climates.
Planting and Care
Although succulents generally require minimal care, most have one need that is absolute: good drainage. Many have shallow roots that spread out so they can take advantage of even brief rainstorms. But the roots succumb to disease if they stay damp.
The right soil depends on rainfall where you live. In desert areas, some succulents grow even in clay. In wetter climates, though, mix sand and airy lava rock into the planting area. Dig holes only as big as the nursery containers or even a little less deep, so that the plant crowns don’t settle below the surface. Mulch with pea gravel to keep surface moisture to a minimum. For containers, mix two-thirds gravel or lava rock and one-third loam if you live where there is a lot of rain. In a dry climate, reverse the proportions.
Most important, don’t overwater. Though container plantings need more water than those settled into the ground, probe the soil to be sure it is thoroughly dried out before watering. And always empty any standing water from saucers. In garden areas, feel the soil 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) below the surface to make sure it’s thoroughly dry before giving plants a good dousing.
Occasional rainfall may mean you’ll only need to water succulent plantings now and then, even during the sultriest weeks of the year. That’s when you may really appreciate the savings bonus these plants offer—not just the lower water bill, but the extra hours freed up from coddling your summer garden.
John Spain, a Connecticut-based gardening expert who pioneered ways of growing succulents outdoors in the frozen north, discovered their advantages years ago, when he often traveled for business. “The only plants that survived without any care in my makeshift greenhouse were the succulents and cacti,” he says. “I would leave for a month, and they’d be fine.” That sent him searching for more cold-hardy succulents. He found enough to fill a 20-foot (6 m)-long berm with a carpetlike tapestry of leaves in green, chartreuse, rose, purple, and even nearly black. Today he also tucks succulents among alpine plants in his 2,000-square-foot rock garden.
A Size and Shape for Every Situation
At least 60 plant families have some succulent species. The adaptations that these plants have made to hold on to moisture make them especially interesting garden specimens. Ground-hugging rosettes pack water into thick, pointed leaves that hybridizers have edged with ribbons of color or rose-petal-like frills. Some species have a swollen stem known as a caudex that serves as a water storage tank. Others resemble cacti, complete with ridged stems and spiky thorns.
Among the most familiar succulents are Sedums, including that perennial favorite Sedum spectabile ‘Autumn Joy,’ which grows 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) tall and bears dramatic rosy-red flower heads in late summer. Another Sedum, Two-Row Stonecrop (Sedum spurium) is a low-maintenance groundcover with fine foliage and white, pink, or purple flowers in summer. Low-growing Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’ has yellow blooms.
Another groundcover, Ice Plant (Delosperma spp.) has tiny, fingerlike fleshy leaves and blooms in full sun with masses of daisylike flowers all summer. Delosperma nubigenum is a noninvasive type that bears yellow blooms.
Hens and Chicks—the common name for the similar-looking but unrelated Echeveria x imbricata and the more cold-hardy Sempervivum tectorum—is a longtime favorite for containers, rock gardens, and growing in the crevices of stone walls. Sempervivum‘s ground-hugging rosettes can be green, red, chartreuse, or purple to silvery blue in color. Echeverias come in rose, green, gray, and mauve, often with a contrasting edge color or a stripe. Both multiply without much effort, sending out shoots with their progeny attached; these may root on their own if they are in contact with soil. Otherwise, they can easily be detached and rooted.
Desert-loving Yuccas, Agaves, and Aloes, with their swordlike and strappy leaves with sharp tips, add a sculptural element to any garden. Though these large-scale specimen plants have long been associated with the dry Southwest, there are hardy varieties that withstand below-freezing temperatures.
That indoor classic, the treelike Jade Plant (Crassula ovata), is another favorite for outdoor containers—though it is not hardy in cold climates. In the same family, Baby Becklace (Crassula rupestris x perforata) looks like a string of beads or buttons.
The lesser-known, multistemmed Aeoniums bear striking rosettes, sometimes variegated, in shades of green, red, and blackish purple, at the ends of their branches. Equally good as container and garden specimens, these generally grow 18 inches to 3 feet (45 to 90 cm) tall and 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 cm) wide. They don’t tolerate freezing temperatures, however, so they need to winter indoors in cold climates.
Planting and Care
Although succulents generally require minimal care, most have one need that is absolute: good drainage. Many have shallow roots that spread out so they can take advantage of even brief rainstorms. But the roots succumb to disease if they stay damp.
The right soil depends on rainfall where you live. In desert areas, some succulents grow even in clay. In wetter climates, though, mix sand and airy lava rock into the planting area. Dig holes only as big as the nursery containers or even a little less deep, so that the plant crowns don’t settle below the surface. Mulch with pea gravel to keep surface moisture to a minimum. For containers, mix two-thirds gravel or lava rock and one-third loam if you live where there is a lot of rain. In a dry climate, reverse the proportions.
Most important, don’t overwater. Though container plantings need more water than those settled into the ground, probe the soil to be sure it is thoroughly dried out before watering. And always empty any standing water from saucers. In garden areas, feel the soil 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) below the surface to make sure it’s thoroughly dry before giving plants a good dousing.
Occasional rainfall may mean you’ll only need to water succulent plantings now and then, even during the sultriest weeks of the year. That’s when you may really appreciate the savings bonus these plants offer—not just the lower water bill, but the extra hours freed up from coddling your summer garden.
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