文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Succulents are popular plants in both containers and in the landscape—and for good reason. They are low maintenance, drought-tolerant and super easy to maintain. Even “brown thumb” types can keep a succulent alive.
Succulents are also popular because they are so beautiful in their own surreal way. Succulents may come from all over the world, but most of them look like they come from outer space—or from deep beneath the sea. Their strong, architectural forms, gorgeous colors and intriguing textures will bring out your inner artist–and their seemingly infinite variety will tempt you to become a collector. Very few people can stop after just one succulent!
Soil
All succulents require excellent soil drainage—this means the water should run through the pot fast, so the plant’s roots don’t get waterlogged. Succulents can die from being planted in ordinary potting soil. When potting succulents, use a bagged soil labeled as being especially for Cacti and Succulents—this is easily found at most nurseries.
If you want to mix your own soil, you will find many recipes available in books and on the Internet, and will have to decide which one works best for you. Some of the most common recommendations are mixing potting soil 1:1 with perlite. You could also mix ordinary potting soil 1:1 with sharp sand (also called builder’s sand). Or you could try 2 parts potting soil to 1 part perlite to 1 part tiny gravel. If you squeeze a handful of moist soil in your fist and let it go, it should not hold shape but fall apart.
Water
Succulents are adapted to survive in harsh, dry conditions by storing water in their flesh. However, this doesn’t mean that they don’t like water when they can get it. (They’re a little like camels in this way!) The one major tip for growing succulents is simply that they don’t like being soggy. You are far more likely to kill your succulent by overwatering it than by under-watering it.
It’s important that you let the soil in the pot dry out a little between waterings. In general you’d want to give your plants just enough water to keep their leaves plump, and no more. It’s hard to generalize, but this may mean giving potted plants a drink once every week or so, depending on conditions. A pot on a hot patio may appreciate more water than one kept indoors. A small pot dries out faster than a big pot. Plants need more water in summer than in winter. Touch the soil to find out if it’s dry or not. Succulents in the ground will want water every two weeks or so, again, depending on conditions. Remember it’s better to let them get a little dehydrated than to overwater them.
When you water, water until the water soaks through and comes out the bottom of the pot. It’s important to have fast draining soil and drainage at the bottom of the pot so the bottom of the pot doesn’t get waterlogged.
Signs of over-watering: Leaves become squishy and change color, becoming paler, even white, or perhaps brown. If you lift the plant out of its pot you will see rot in the roots. To rescue the situation, cut off the healthiest looking parts, and repot them in dryer soil.
Signs of under watering: When stressed for water, succulents begin to use the water in their leaves and stems, giving them a thin, wrinkled appearance. This is not as serious as the rot from overwatering. They will plump up again after a good watering. They are amazingly resilient—but they’re not indestructible, and if they go too long without water, they will drop all their leaves.
Note: Some succulents go dormant during portions of the year and do not want to be watered during this time. Succulents, like Dudleyas go dormant in the summer, growing only in winter, in conjunction with the rains. They’d rather not be watered in the summer.
Light
Succulents evolved in dry climates, but shouldn’t be confused with tough desert cactus. Generally speaking, full sun outdoors is okay for Aloes and Agaves, but Echeverias (many of the rose or cabbage shaped succulents are Echeverias) prefer a bit of shade, or dappled sunlight. Most succulents appreciate some shade during the hottest part of the day.
You can keep potted succulents indoors, but they don’t do well in dim light situations. Try to find a sunny window for them, and give them “sun vacations” outdoors.
Signs a plant is getting too much light: The leaves may scorch, have brown, black or white patches, or just look burnt or withered. Green succulents may turn pretty shades of red and yellow when stressed by bright sun. This is attractive, but also a signal that you should be paying close attention to make sure they don’t get too stressed. Consider moving the pot to a less sunny location.
Sign a plant is getting too little light: A plant desperate for sun will reach or lean toward the light. Sometimes it will throw a lot of energy into elongating its stem to as if it would stretch all the way out the window to better light. This is what is called “getting leggy.”
Legginess is a sure sign of light starvation. Leggy plants can be trimmed into a more attractive form and repotted, then moved somewhere brighter. Light deprived plants can also become just generally sickly, and will be more susceptible to insect infestation.
If you do decide to move a pot to brighter light, particularly if you’re moving it from indoors to outdoors, give it some time to adjust. Let it spend its first couple of days outdoors in the shade, then in dappled sun. Moving it straight into full sun might shock the plant, and cause it to burn.
Pests
Succulents are pretty tough, but they can still have problems with insects and other pests: snails and mealy bugs are two common foes.
Containers
Succulents adapt well to many types of containers, from fancy ceramics to funky found art objects. They are shallow rooted as a rule, so can thrive in containers too shallow for regular plants. The one important rule for containers is that they should have drainage holes. It’s trendy these days to pop succulents into all sorts of containers, like canning jars or antique vases, but if the container does not have a drainage hole at the bottom, you will be at high risk for overwatering your plants.
The good news is that you can make a drainage hole in almost anything with an electric drill — there are specialty drill bits different materials, including glass and ceramics. Ask at your local hardware store for a bit which will match your container. While you’re at the hardware store, buy some 3 in1 oil—use this on ceramic bits to keep them from smoking. Metal containers are perhaps the easiest to work with: you can make holes in tin cans and old metal containers with just a hammer and nail.
If you decide to skip the drainage hole, water sparingly and hope for the best. In such cases, taller containers work better than shallow ones, because the water tends to gather in the low parts of the pot, so short-rooted succulents have some hope of keeping their feet dry if all the water sinks to the bottom of a deep pot. It’s also okay to treat your succulents more like cut flowers, and put together arrangements which are meant to be temporary—a table centerpiece, for instance. In these cases you don’t have to worry about drainage, or light, or anything else.
Temperature
Your outdoor plants should be fine down to 40°F (4.5°C) or a bit lower. Freezing temperatures can damage succulents, with the exception of certain Stonecrops and Sempervivums, which are cold tolerant. If you hear there is going to be a frost, bring your potted succulents inside, or into shelter, like a garage. In places with frosty winters succulents need to be potted up and moved to shelter from the entire winter.
Succulents are also popular because they are so beautiful in their own surreal way. Succulents may come from all over the world, but most of them look like they come from outer space—or from deep beneath the sea. Their strong, architectural forms, gorgeous colors and intriguing textures will bring out your inner artist–and their seemingly infinite variety will tempt you to become a collector. Very few people can stop after just one succulent!
Soil
All succulents require excellent soil drainage—this means the water should run through the pot fast, so the plant’s roots don’t get waterlogged. Succulents can die from being planted in ordinary potting soil. When potting succulents, use a bagged soil labeled as being especially for Cacti and Succulents—this is easily found at most nurseries.
If you want to mix your own soil, you will find many recipes available in books and on the Internet, and will have to decide which one works best for you. Some of the most common recommendations are mixing potting soil 1:1 with perlite. You could also mix ordinary potting soil 1:1 with sharp sand (also called builder’s sand). Or you could try 2 parts potting soil to 1 part perlite to 1 part tiny gravel. If you squeeze a handful of moist soil in your fist and let it go, it should not hold shape but fall apart.
Water
Succulents are adapted to survive in harsh, dry conditions by storing water in their flesh. However, this doesn’t mean that they don’t like water when they can get it. (They’re a little like camels in this way!) The one major tip for growing succulents is simply that they don’t like being soggy. You are far more likely to kill your succulent by overwatering it than by under-watering it.
It’s important that you let the soil in the pot dry out a little between waterings. In general you’d want to give your plants just enough water to keep their leaves plump, and no more. It’s hard to generalize, but this may mean giving potted plants a drink once every week or so, depending on conditions. A pot on a hot patio may appreciate more water than one kept indoors. A small pot dries out faster than a big pot. Plants need more water in summer than in winter. Touch the soil to find out if it’s dry or not. Succulents in the ground will want water every two weeks or so, again, depending on conditions. Remember it’s better to let them get a little dehydrated than to overwater them.
When you water, water until the water soaks through and comes out the bottom of the pot. It’s important to have fast draining soil and drainage at the bottom of the pot so the bottom of the pot doesn’t get waterlogged.
Signs of over-watering: Leaves become squishy and change color, becoming paler, even white, or perhaps brown. If you lift the plant out of its pot you will see rot in the roots. To rescue the situation, cut off the healthiest looking parts, and repot them in dryer soil.
Signs of under watering: When stressed for water, succulents begin to use the water in their leaves and stems, giving them a thin, wrinkled appearance. This is not as serious as the rot from overwatering. They will plump up again after a good watering. They are amazingly resilient—but they’re not indestructible, and if they go too long without water, they will drop all their leaves.
Note: Some succulents go dormant during portions of the year and do not want to be watered during this time. Succulents, like Dudleyas go dormant in the summer, growing only in winter, in conjunction with the rains. They’d rather not be watered in the summer.
Light
Succulents evolved in dry climates, but shouldn’t be confused with tough desert cactus. Generally speaking, full sun outdoors is okay for Aloes and Agaves, but Echeverias (many of the rose or cabbage shaped succulents are Echeverias) prefer a bit of shade, or dappled sunlight. Most succulents appreciate some shade during the hottest part of the day.
You can keep potted succulents indoors, but they don’t do well in dim light situations. Try to find a sunny window for them, and give them “sun vacations” outdoors.
Signs a plant is getting too much light: The leaves may scorch, have brown, black or white patches, or just look burnt or withered. Green succulents may turn pretty shades of red and yellow when stressed by bright sun. This is attractive, but also a signal that you should be paying close attention to make sure they don’t get too stressed. Consider moving the pot to a less sunny location.
Sign a plant is getting too little light: A plant desperate for sun will reach or lean toward the light. Sometimes it will throw a lot of energy into elongating its stem to as if it would stretch all the way out the window to better light. This is what is called “getting leggy.”
Legginess is a sure sign of light starvation. Leggy plants can be trimmed into a more attractive form and repotted, then moved somewhere brighter. Light deprived plants can also become just generally sickly, and will be more susceptible to insect infestation.
If you do decide to move a pot to brighter light, particularly if you’re moving it from indoors to outdoors, give it some time to adjust. Let it spend its first couple of days outdoors in the shade, then in dappled sun. Moving it straight into full sun might shock the plant, and cause it to burn.
Pests
Succulents are pretty tough, but they can still have problems with insects and other pests: snails and mealy bugs are two common foes.
Containers
Succulents adapt well to many types of containers, from fancy ceramics to funky found art objects. They are shallow rooted as a rule, so can thrive in containers too shallow for regular plants. The one important rule for containers is that they should have drainage holes. It’s trendy these days to pop succulents into all sorts of containers, like canning jars or antique vases, but if the container does not have a drainage hole at the bottom, you will be at high risk for overwatering your plants.
The good news is that you can make a drainage hole in almost anything with an electric drill — there are specialty drill bits different materials, including glass and ceramics. Ask at your local hardware store for a bit which will match your container. While you’re at the hardware store, buy some 3 in1 oil—use this on ceramic bits to keep them from smoking. Metal containers are perhaps the easiest to work with: you can make holes in tin cans and old metal containers with just a hammer and nail.
If you decide to skip the drainage hole, water sparingly and hope for the best. In such cases, taller containers work better than shallow ones, because the water tends to gather in the low parts of the pot, so short-rooted succulents have some hope of keeping their feet dry if all the water sinks to the bottom of a deep pot. It’s also okay to treat your succulents more like cut flowers, and put together arrangements which are meant to be temporary—a table centerpiece, for instance. In these cases you don’t have to worry about drainage, or light, or anything else.
Temperature
Your outdoor plants should be fine down to 40°F (4.5°C) or a bit lower. Freezing temperatures can damage succulents, with the exception of certain Stonecrops and Sempervivums, which are cold tolerant. If you hear there is going to be a frost, bring your potted succulents inside, or into shelter, like a garage. In places with frosty winters succulents need to be potted up and moved to shelter from the entire winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Aptenia is a small genus of flowering plants in the family Aizoaceae. They are native to southern Africa. These are succulent subshrubs growing from a system of fibrous, often fleshy roots. The stems lie prostrate on the ground or may climb. The stem bases are woody, and the stems are green. The leaves are mostly oppositely arranged, but those near the inflorescences may be alternate. The leaf blades are flat, hairless, sometimes waxy, and usually heart-shaped, or occasionally lance-shaped. Flowers are solitary or grow in small, whorled clusters, usually in the leaf axils along the stem. The flower is about 0.4 inch (1 cm) wide. There are two large sepals and two smaller. The corolla contains many narrow petals in shades of pink, purple, yellow, or white, and several staminodes that look very much like the petals. The many fertile stamens at the center are white or yellow. The fruit is a capsule with four valves.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Water Aptenia only when the soil is completely dry, and then provide enough to drench the soil to a depth of about 6 inches (15 cm). To check for dryness, poke your finger into the soil. Never water if the soil feels damp or cool, as Aptenia, like all succulents, is prone to rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. Water Aptenia lightly during the winter if the leaves begin to look shriveled. Provide only enough water to moisten the soil as the plant deteriorates quickly in cool, damp soil.
Withhold fertilizer, which isn’t needed and often results in a weak, floppy plant. Trim the plant as needed throughout the growing season, using pruners or garden shears to keep the plant tidy. Pot the plant and bring it indoors for the winter when nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Grower’s Tips
Aptenia isn’t difficult to grow in pots. Use a combination of 1 part potting mix and 1 part sand or a commercial mixture for cacti and succulents. Put the pot in direct sunlight and water deeply whenever the soil feels dry.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Water Aptenia only when the soil is completely dry, and then provide enough to drench the soil to a depth of about 6 inches (15 cm). To check for dryness, poke your finger into the soil. Never water if the soil feels damp or cool, as Aptenia, like all succulents, is prone to rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. Water Aptenia lightly during the winter if the leaves begin to look shriveled. Provide only enough water to moisten the soil as the plant deteriorates quickly in cool, damp soil.
Withhold fertilizer, which isn’t needed and often results in a weak, floppy plant. Trim the plant as needed throughout the growing season, using pruners or garden shears to keep the plant tidy. Pot the plant and bring it indoors for the winter when nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Grower’s Tips
Aptenia isn’t difficult to grow in pots. Use a combination of 1 part potting mix and 1 part sand or a commercial mixture for cacti and succulents. Put the pot in direct sunlight and water deeply whenever the soil feels dry.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genus Tavaresia includes at least 2 species (Tavaresia barklyi, Tavaresia angolensis) of spiny stem succulents native to southern Africa. Short, erect, 6-14 angled stems carry rows of tubercles furnished with 3 fine white spines which gives the plants a cactoid appearance. Technically, these spines represent a modified leaf spine with 2 side stipules, unique to this genus. Stems take on a dramatic dark colouration in a sunny position, contrasting with the spines. The large funnel-shaped flowers make these plants attractive to collectors. Swellings near the tips of the coronal lobes are also unique to this genus.
Growing Conditions
Light: Tavaresias prefer light shade rather than full sun, although stems may not color up under shady conditions.
Water: They should at all times sparingly watered (best rain water with some occasional fertilizer), and in winter time they hardly require any.
Temperature: A minimum winter temperature of 41°F (5°C) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry.
Soil: They grow well in light gritty soil with a very liberal drainage.
General Care
Tavaresias are mainly grown by plant collectors, lovers of succulents and enthusiasts who enjoy growing unorthodox looking plants. They comes from summer rainfall areas, and are intolerant of excess water, humidity and low winter temperatures and easily destroyed by molds. Flower buds drop off easily in response to the slightest touch or unfavorable conditions.
Propagation
Plants are usually increased by cuttings, which, as they are very succulent, should be allowed to dry a week after they are taken off, when they may at once be put singly into pots. Grafting the Tavaresia on Stapelias is often useful, and can be recommended.
Pest and Problems
Keep their roots free of mealy bugs, as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems and minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots.
Growing Conditions
Light: Tavaresias prefer light shade rather than full sun, although stems may not color up under shady conditions.
Water: They should at all times sparingly watered (best rain water with some occasional fertilizer), and in winter time they hardly require any.
Temperature: A minimum winter temperature of 41°F (5°C) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry.
Soil: They grow well in light gritty soil with a very liberal drainage.
General Care
Tavaresias are mainly grown by plant collectors, lovers of succulents and enthusiasts who enjoy growing unorthodox looking plants. They comes from summer rainfall areas, and are intolerant of excess water, humidity and low winter temperatures and easily destroyed by molds. Flower buds drop off easily in response to the slightest touch or unfavorable conditions.
Propagation
Plants are usually increased by cuttings, which, as they are very succulent, should be allowed to dry a week after they are taken off, when they may at once be put singly into pots. Grafting the Tavaresia on Stapelias is often useful, and can be recommended.
Pest and Problems
Keep their roots free of mealy bugs, as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems and minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Commonly called crown cacti, the Rebutia genus includes some of the most popular and easiest to grow cacti, making them perfect for beginnings. These plants are native to high elevations in South America, where they grow in clusters on the mountains. They are frequent bloomers and readily send out offshoots, so even plants only two or three years old will form an attractive cluster of small plants.
Their flowers typically emerge from the base of the plant or between individual plants in the same cluster, as opposed to the crown of the plant. In terms of culture, they are not particularly difficult and like bright light and light moisture.
Growing Conditions
Light: Rebutia thrive in bright light and range of conditions. Many species can be grown in partial shade to full sun. However, as these are mountain species, they do not appreciate high temperatures, which should be avoided.
Water: Throughout the growing season (spring and summer) let the potting soil almost completely dry out between waterings, then water thoroughly. In winter, cut back watering.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Rebutia cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily in clusters around the base of the mother plant. Once your plant has gained a decent size and has sent out several offsets, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut to dry on a paper towel for a few days.
Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Rebutia without too much trouble. Their water and light requirements are fairly typical for many cacti species, including a cooling period in the winter to promote better blooming. Watering should be done carefully, allowing the plant to almost dry out between waterings. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. For the best viewing, instead of propagating your offsets, let the plant for a large cluster. When it blooms, this will make a truly beautiful display. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
Their flowers typically emerge from the base of the plant or between individual plants in the same cluster, as opposed to the crown of the plant. In terms of culture, they are not particularly difficult and like bright light and light moisture.
Growing Conditions
Light: Rebutia thrive in bright light and range of conditions. Many species can be grown in partial shade to full sun. However, as these are mountain species, they do not appreciate high temperatures, which should be avoided.
Water: Throughout the growing season (spring and summer) let the potting soil almost completely dry out between waterings, then water thoroughly. In winter, cut back watering.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Rebutia cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily in clusters around the base of the mother plant. Once your plant has gained a decent size and has sent out several offsets, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut to dry on a paper towel for a few days.
Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Rebutia without too much trouble. Their water and light requirements are fairly typical for many cacti species, including a cooling period in the winter to promote better blooming. Watering should be done carefully, allowing the plant to almost dry out between waterings. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. For the best viewing, instead of propagating your offsets, let the plant for a large cluster. When it blooms, this will make a truly beautiful display. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Braunsia is a genus of succulent plant in the family Aizoaceae, occurs the southwestern part of the Western Cape Province in South Africa. The plants are shrublets or creepers, characterized by their serrated, partially fused leaves.
The beautiful flowers, ranging in color from salmon to pink to white, bloom in winter and spring, opening and closing in the afternoon. They do well in cultivation and are, for the most, not very finicky.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Braunsias are moderately slow growing succulents. Needs moderate water when growing in late fall and early spring. Keep somewhat dry the rest of the time. Like all living rocks, they thrive in porous soils with excellent drainage. It can tolerates high heat and some frost (hardy to 23° F (-5° C) or less if very dry). Braunsias are very rewarding succulents and can be cultivated in desert garden in warm climates or in greenhouses or windowsills in the home where too hardy. Enjoy bright shade in summer and full sun on the other seasons.
Propagation
They are easily propagated by seed and cuttings.
The beautiful flowers, ranging in color from salmon to pink to white, bloom in winter and spring, opening and closing in the afternoon. They do well in cultivation and are, for the most, not very finicky.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Braunsias are moderately slow growing succulents. Needs moderate water when growing in late fall and early spring. Keep somewhat dry the rest of the time. Like all living rocks, they thrive in porous soils with excellent drainage. It can tolerates high heat and some frost (hardy to 23° F (-5° C) or less if very dry). Braunsias are very rewarding succulents and can be cultivated in desert garden in warm climates or in greenhouses or windowsills in the home where too hardy. Enjoy bright shade in summer and full sun on the other seasons.
Propagation
They are easily propagated by seed and cuttings.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Jatropha genus includes a very wide variety of plants native to the warmer regions of the world. They range from tropical plants to semi-arid subtropical plants that resemble succulents in their growth patterns. Depending on where you live, you might see different types of Jatropha. One of the most popular in the United States nursery trade is the Jatropha integerrima, which is grown for its sprays of shocking and beautiful red flowers.
Like many species in the Euphorbiaceae family, these plants are toxic and should not be located in areas where curious children or pets might decide to sample them. If, however, you have the right location and safety is not a concern, these are wonderful plants, both for their ease of cultivation and their beauty.
Growing Conditions
Light: It somewhat depends on the species, so ask your garden center staff. Many Jatropha prefer bright and sunny conditions, while others thrive in partial shade.
Water: Provide regular water during the growing season, and reduce watering during the winter. Immaculate drainage is important, and some species are very drought tolerant. Jatropha integerrima is drought tolerant.
Soil: A rich typical potting mix will do fine. Provide lots of coarse drainage material and get into the habit of watering daily.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season.
Propagation
Jatropha can be propagated by seed (if you’re fortunate enough to get sides) or by stem cuttings. To take stem cuttings, remove a small piece of stem, dip it in rooting hormone, then pot into a small pot with seedling starter soil. Place in a warm, bright place and wait for new growth to emerge.
Repotting
Annually, in the beginning of the growing season. Many Jatropha species are naturally small shrubs, ranging up to 15 feet (4.5 m) in height. To keep your indoor container plant manageable, trim it to size and possibly root prune older plants. Much larger plants should be refreshed occasionally by removing the top several inches of potting soil and replacing it with fresh potting soil.
Grower’s Tips
The key to growing successful Jatropha is to achieve the proper balance between moisture and drainage. They typically appreciate a steady supply of water, but the most popular species cannot tolerate being submerged or soaked and will quickly succumb to root rot. Many of the popular Jatropha species make excellent small trees for a conservatory or sunny corner. Keep them well pruned so they don’t outgrow their space too soon. Jatropha are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the leave toxic option.
Like many species in the Euphorbiaceae family, these plants are toxic and should not be located in areas where curious children or pets might decide to sample them. If, however, you have the right location and safety is not a concern, these are wonderful plants, both for their ease of cultivation and their beauty.
Growing Conditions
Light: It somewhat depends on the species, so ask your garden center staff. Many Jatropha prefer bright and sunny conditions, while others thrive in partial shade.
Water: Provide regular water during the growing season, and reduce watering during the winter. Immaculate drainage is important, and some species are very drought tolerant. Jatropha integerrima is drought tolerant.
Soil: A rich typical potting mix will do fine. Provide lots of coarse drainage material and get into the habit of watering daily.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season.
Propagation
Jatropha can be propagated by seed (if you’re fortunate enough to get sides) or by stem cuttings. To take stem cuttings, remove a small piece of stem, dip it in rooting hormone, then pot into a small pot with seedling starter soil. Place in a warm, bright place and wait for new growth to emerge.
Repotting
Annually, in the beginning of the growing season. Many Jatropha species are naturally small shrubs, ranging up to 15 feet (4.5 m) in height. To keep your indoor container plant manageable, trim it to size and possibly root prune older plants. Much larger plants should be refreshed occasionally by removing the top several inches of potting soil and replacing it with fresh potting soil.
Grower’s Tips
The key to growing successful Jatropha is to achieve the proper balance between moisture and drainage. They typically appreciate a steady supply of water, but the most popular species cannot tolerate being submerged or soaked and will quickly succumb to root rot. Many of the popular Jatropha species make excellent small trees for a conservatory or sunny corner. Keep them well pruned so they don’t outgrow their space too soon. Jatropha are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the leave toxic option.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Monanthes is a genus of small, succulent, subtropical plants of the Crassulaceae family. The about ten species are mostly endemic to the Canary Islands and Savage Islands, with some found on Madeira. Its center of diversity is Tenerife, with seven species occurring on this island. On Fuerteventura and Lanzarote, only Monanthes laxiflora occurs.
Monanthes are not frost-resistant. They are linked with the genera Sempervivum, Aichryson and Aeonium, which is obvious from their similar flowers.
Species of Monanthes differ considerably in life- and growth-form. Most species make stemless to short stemmed rosettes of tiny, strongly succulent leaves and do not reach more than 0.4 inch (1 cm) in diameter.
Growing Conditions
Light: Suited for bright situations in mid-shade or under filtered sun.
Temperature: Monanthes are not frost-resistant. Keep dry at 41 – 50° F (5 – 10° C) in winter, but can tolerate sporadic light frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather. USDA hardiness zones 9-11.
Water: It likes a winter’s rest and should be kept dry during the winter months. From early spring the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late spring when the plant should be in full growth. Water regularly during the growing period so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water.
Soil: Use an open and free draining mineral compost with little organic matter (peat, humus) that allows therefore roots to breath. Outdoors a well-draining rocky or sandy soil is ideal.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer during the growing season diluted to one-fourth potency and mix into the watering can for application.
Propagation
It is easy to propagate either through rosette cuttings or seed.
Grower’s Tips
Monanthes are easily grown in even very small pots in any rich, well drained, rocky soil in a sunny spot. Keep plants drier in winter in full sun and at a minimum of some 10° F (10° C). They takes very little place in the collection and are asking very little attention. The only things that can kill this plants are cold, hot blasting sun and overwatering. Monanthes may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free. Repot it every 2 or 3 years in order to evaluate the health of the plant and provide a larger growing space being careful not to damage the sensitive roots.
Monanthes are not frost-resistant. They are linked with the genera Sempervivum, Aichryson and Aeonium, which is obvious from their similar flowers.
Species of Monanthes differ considerably in life- and growth-form. Most species make stemless to short stemmed rosettes of tiny, strongly succulent leaves and do not reach more than 0.4 inch (1 cm) in diameter.
Growing Conditions
Light: Suited for bright situations in mid-shade or under filtered sun.
Temperature: Monanthes are not frost-resistant. Keep dry at 41 – 50° F (5 – 10° C) in winter, but can tolerate sporadic light frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather. USDA hardiness zones 9-11.
Water: It likes a winter’s rest and should be kept dry during the winter months. From early spring the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late spring when the plant should be in full growth. Water regularly during the growing period so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water.
Soil: Use an open and free draining mineral compost with little organic matter (peat, humus) that allows therefore roots to breath. Outdoors a well-draining rocky or sandy soil is ideal.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer during the growing season diluted to one-fourth potency and mix into the watering can for application.
Propagation
It is easy to propagate either through rosette cuttings or seed.
Grower’s Tips
Monanthes are easily grown in even very small pots in any rich, well drained, rocky soil in a sunny spot. Keep plants drier in winter in full sun and at a minimum of some 10° F (10° C). They takes very little place in the collection and are asking very little attention. The only things that can kill this plants are cold, hot blasting sun and overwatering. Monanthes may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free. Repot it every 2 or 3 years in order to evaluate the health of the plant and provide a larger growing space being careful not to damage the sensitive roots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genera of plants within the tribe Stapeliae are all to varying degrees stem succulents. Many of the species resemble cacti, though are not closely related, as an example of convergent evolution. The stems are often angular, mostly four-angled in cross-section, but in some species there are six or more, with some species of Hoodia having more than thirty angles. In size they vary from less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length to over 6 inches (15 cm) tall. The leaves are in most species reduced to rudiments, sometimes hardened and thorn-like, arranged on bumps or tubercles on the angles. Some species, however, still have recognisable leaves, most notably the Indian species Frerea indica, and some members of Tridentea.
Stapeliads are most abundant in warm, dry climates. In Africa, there are two separate regions where Stapeliads have most diversified: northeast Africa, and Southern Africa. Several species are endemic to the small island of Socotra off the Horn of Africa. The Arabian Peninsula, and most specifically the country of Yemen, contain another concentration of species. Several more are found in the drier parts of Pakistan, Afghanistan, India, Nepal, and Myanmar. A single species, Caralluma europea is found in Europe, in the very southern part of the Iberian peninsula.
Most Stapeliads use flies as pollinators, that are attracted to odours resembling dung or rotting meat, emanating from the flowers. Many of the flowers also bear some physical resemblance to rotting animal carcasses, leading to their popular name of Carrion Flowers. However, not all Stapeliads smell bad, or attract flies. Some species use beetles, bees, wasps, butterflies or moths as pollinators. Stapeliad flowers range in size from mere millimetres in species of Echidnopsis and Pseudolithos to those of Stapelia gigantea that can reach 16 inches (40 cm) in diameter, and are some the largest of flowers to be found on any species of succulent.
List of Genera
Angolluma, Baynesia, Caralluma, Desmidorchis, Duvalia, Echidnopsis, Edithcolea, Frerea, Hoodia, Huernia, Huerniopsis, Larryleachia, Notechidnopsis, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Pachycymbium, Pectinaria, Pseudolithos, Pseudopectinaria, Quaqua, Rhytidocaulon, Stapelia, Stapelianthus, Stapeliopsis, Tavaresia, Tridentea, Tromotriche, Whitesloanea.
Growing Conditions
Light: All Stapeliads enjoy dry heat and sunlight, if not too bright and intense.
Temperature: Stapeliads do not like winter cold and should remain fairly dry and warm during its winter resting period.
Water: In growing season, water in moderation when needed, making sure soil is fairly dried out between waterings. Do not water between November 1 and March 1.
Soil: They all need extra good drainage. Stapeliads are shallow rooted and a collection of them can be planted up nicely in a wide, shallow bowl. When planting, it is a good idea to allow the roots to be buried in soil and then put pure gravel or sand around the base of the plant to prevent rot.
Fertilizer: Fertilize lightly, if at all, to prevent overly lush and weak stems.
Propagation
The easiest and best way to propagate Stapeliads is from stem cuttings which can be taken virtually throughout the year. Seed is also a method of propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Stapeliads are relatively easy to grow. They should be treated as an outdoor plant as they will easily rot indoors and cannot flower without exposure to outdoor temperature fluctuations. They should be grown under cover so that watering can be controlled. They require a reasonable amount of sunlight to promote flowering and maintain a well shaped plant. Very shady positions will produce very poor flowering. Stapeliads come from climates where they survive extremely high temperatures in the summer months so most growth is in spring and autumn, with flowering in autumn when the weather starts to cool down.
Stapeliads are most abundant in warm, dry climates. In Africa, there are two separate regions where Stapeliads have most diversified: northeast Africa, and Southern Africa. Several species are endemic to the small island of Socotra off the Horn of Africa. The Arabian Peninsula, and most specifically the country of Yemen, contain another concentration of species. Several more are found in the drier parts of Pakistan, Afghanistan, India, Nepal, and Myanmar. A single species, Caralluma europea is found in Europe, in the very southern part of the Iberian peninsula.
Most Stapeliads use flies as pollinators, that are attracted to odours resembling dung or rotting meat, emanating from the flowers. Many of the flowers also bear some physical resemblance to rotting animal carcasses, leading to their popular name of Carrion Flowers. However, not all Stapeliads smell bad, or attract flies. Some species use beetles, bees, wasps, butterflies or moths as pollinators. Stapeliad flowers range in size from mere millimetres in species of Echidnopsis and Pseudolithos to those of Stapelia gigantea that can reach 16 inches (40 cm) in diameter, and are some the largest of flowers to be found on any species of succulent.
List of Genera
Angolluma, Baynesia, Caralluma, Desmidorchis, Duvalia, Echidnopsis, Edithcolea, Frerea, Hoodia, Huernia, Huerniopsis, Larryleachia, Notechidnopsis, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Pachycymbium, Pectinaria, Pseudolithos, Pseudopectinaria, Quaqua, Rhytidocaulon, Stapelia, Stapelianthus, Stapeliopsis, Tavaresia, Tridentea, Tromotriche, Whitesloanea.
Growing Conditions
Light: All Stapeliads enjoy dry heat and sunlight, if not too bright and intense.
Temperature: Stapeliads do not like winter cold and should remain fairly dry and warm during its winter resting period.
Water: In growing season, water in moderation when needed, making sure soil is fairly dried out between waterings. Do not water between November 1 and March 1.
Soil: They all need extra good drainage. Stapeliads are shallow rooted and a collection of them can be planted up nicely in a wide, shallow bowl. When planting, it is a good idea to allow the roots to be buried in soil and then put pure gravel or sand around the base of the plant to prevent rot.
Fertilizer: Fertilize lightly, if at all, to prevent overly lush and weak stems.
Propagation
The easiest and best way to propagate Stapeliads is from stem cuttings which can be taken virtually throughout the year. Seed is also a method of propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Stapeliads are relatively easy to grow. They should be treated as an outdoor plant as they will easily rot indoors and cannot flower without exposure to outdoor temperature fluctuations. They should be grown under cover so that watering can be controlled. They require a reasonable amount of sunlight to promote flowering and maintain a well shaped plant. Very shady positions will produce very poor flowering. Stapeliads come from climates where they survive extremely high temperatures in the summer months so most growth is in spring and autumn, with flowering in autumn when the weather starts to cool down.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Yucca are desert plants native to the Southwestern United States, Mexico and Central America. They’ve also bee naturalized throughout the Southern United States. As far as houseplants go, they are probably eclipsed by the similar-looking Dracaena genus (which is often mistaken for Yucca). They are, however, interesting and slow-growing houseplants that have the added benefit of being extremely drought tolerant.
If you kill a Yucca, it’s probably due to overwatering. Over time, most species will grow into room-devouring monsters, but this takes long enough that they provide years of durable service as a houseplant. One word of caution, however: one of the popular species, Yucca aloifolia has very sharp spines on its leaf-tips that could potentially cause injury.
Spineless species are much more suited for indoor cultivation.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, unfiltered sunlight. Yucca thrive in full sunlight, so they’re perfect for that west-facing window where everything else burns up.
Water: They are highly sensitive to water-logging. Water regularly in the spring and summer growing season, but make sure the plant has excellent drainage and dries between waterings. Water sporadically in the winter. Never let a plant sit in a tray of water.
Temperature: Widely variable. Yucca are adapted to the desert, where temperatures can soar into the 90°F (32°C) or higher and down into the 30°F (-1°C) at night.
Soil: A loose, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the growing season with liquid fertilizer or controlled-release fertilizer according to label instructions.
Propagation
The easiest way to propagate Yucca is with offsets of older plants. Divide the plant during repotting or carefully slice away the offset and pot up into a separate container. They can also be propagated by stem cuttings, using pieces of stem of at least 4 inches (20 cm) and rooting hormone. Yucca grown indoors will likely not flower or bear seeds.
Repotting
Yucca are relatively slow-growing plants that should only need to be repotted every other year. They do well slightly pot-bound, as long as they don’t become heavy enough to tip over their containers. Repotting larger plants can be difficult, so larger plants can be refreshed with new potting soil by digging out the top 2 inches (5 cm) of the container and adding new soil. During typical repotting, remove the Yucca plant from its container and go up one container size. Always use fresh potting soil.
Grower’s Tips
Under the right conditions, Yucca are not difficult plants to grow. They tend to thrive on a little neglect, rather than too much attention. They are especially easy to overwater, and soggy stems are a sign of too much water. The best conditions for Yucca include a sunny corner with relatively low humidity. They are not prone to many pests, although scale can be an issue. Over time, plants will typically lose their lower leaves (in nature, they droop, forming a skirt around the trunk), giving the plant a pleasant “tree-like” appearance.
If you kill a Yucca, it’s probably due to overwatering. Over time, most species will grow into room-devouring monsters, but this takes long enough that they provide years of durable service as a houseplant. One word of caution, however: one of the popular species, Yucca aloifolia has very sharp spines on its leaf-tips that could potentially cause injury.
Spineless species are much more suited for indoor cultivation.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright, unfiltered sunlight. Yucca thrive in full sunlight, so they’re perfect for that west-facing window where everything else burns up.
Water: They are highly sensitive to water-logging. Water regularly in the spring and summer growing season, but make sure the plant has excellent drainage and dries between waterings. Water sporadically in the winter. Never let a plant sit in a tray of water.
Temperature: Widely variable. Yucca are adapted to the desert, where temperatures can soar into the 90°F (32°C) or higher and down into the 30°F (-1°C) at night.
Soil: A loose, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the growing season with liquid fertilizer or controlled-release fertilizer according to label instructions.
Propagation
The easiest way to propagate Yucca is with offsets of older plants. Divide the plant during repotting or carefully slice away the offset and pot up into a separate container. They can also be propagated by stem cuttings, using pieces of stem of at least 4 inches (20 cm) and rooting hormone. Yucca grown indoors will likely not flower or bear seeds.
Repotting
Yucca are relatively slow-growing plants that should only need to be repotted every other year. They do well slightly pot-bound, as long as they don’t become heavy enough to tip over their containers. Repotting larger plants can be difficult, so larger plants can be refreshed with new potting soil by digging out the top 2 inches (5 cm) of the container and adding new soil. During typical repotting, remove the Yucca plant from its container and go up one container size. Always use fresh potting soil.
Grower’s Tips
Under the right conditions, Yucca are not difficult plants to grow. They tend to thrive on a little neglect, rather than too much attention. They are especially easy to overwater, and soggy stems are a sign of too much water. The best conditions for Yucca include a sunny corner with relatively low humidity. They are not prone to many pests, although scale can be an issue. Over time, plants will typically lose their lower leaves (in nature, they droop, forming a skirt around the trunk), giving the plant a pleasant “tree-like” appearance.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
These tropical cacti, often referred to as leaf cacti, are quite unusual and in fact bear many characteristics unlike any other plants in their family. Instead, Pereskia plants often look more like plants from other genera; for instance, they often have large, bright green leaves and long stems, two characteristics uncommon among cacti. There’s also lots of diversity among leaf cacti, in growth habit and preferred treatment.
Nonetheless, Pereskias qualify as cacti because of their spines which develop from aureoles, a distinctive characteristic of the cactus family. They can be divided into Leuenbergerias and Pereskias, and Pereskias are usually found in tropical areas while Leuenbergerias are found farther north. Many of these plants have lovely foliage; for instance, Pereskia grandifolia, which is used by native Brazilians for its medicinal properties, has large pinkish flowers that develop from the end of dense inflorescences.
They’re often used as flowering hedges, and those varieties that carry edible fruits, like Pereskia aculeata, are also grown to be eaten. Many plants in the Pereskia genus are rare, and there’s so much diversity within the genus that it’s difficult to generalize these plant’s characteristics, but Pereskia is without a doubt one of the most interesting and unusual genera of cacti.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lots of direct sunlight every day; like all cacti, Pereskias will benefit from tons of light exposure.
Water: Err on the side of underwatering rather than overwatering. They can be watered fairly infrequently and survive.
Temperature: There’s some variance depending on the species’ place of origin, but these are generally tropical plants that require warm temperatures.
Soil: Use a typical cactus potting soil that contains some organic material, and make sure their drainage is good to avoid damaging the roots.
Fertilizer: Feed regularly with a balanced, water-soluble cactus fertilizer to increase their propensity to bloom.
Propagation
These cacti can be propagated fairly easily by taking cuttings. Snip off a piece of about a few inches long, treat with a good rooting hormone, and plant in cactus potting mix. It can take a little while for cacti to root, but they aren’t picky about propagation and should grow easily in a new environment. Remember to keep them in a warm, moist area.
Repotting
They like dry conditions and don’t need to be repotted often, but still it’s a good idea to refresh their soil by repotting occasionally. Be careful when repotting any cactus to not get hurt by their sharp spines, and lift the plant from its mix and replace in a new container before backfilling with soil. Do not water for a few weeks after repotting; the plant is still acclimating to its new container.
Grower’s Tips
As with many cacti, Pereskias can be almost ignored and still flourish. One of the major advantages that succulents pose as houseplants is their ease, and overwatering or overfeeding them is a bigger danger than neglecting them because it can damage their roots. If you repot them, remember to leave them alone for a brief period so as to avoid overstressing them, and make sure to keep an eye out for common houseplant pests. Many of these cacti can’t really be grown as houseplants anyway due to their shrubby growth habit, and others are very rare, but when you do find out Pereskias can be good in cultivation.
Nonetheless, Pereskias qualify as cacti because of their spines which develop from aureoles, a distinctive characteristic of the cactus family. They can be divided into Leuenbergerias and Pereskias, and Pereskias are usually found in tropical areas while Leuenbergerias are found farther north. Many of these plants have lovely foliage; for instance, Pereskia grandifolia, which is used by native Brazilians for its medicinal properties, has large pinkish flowers that develop from the end of dense inflorescences.
They’re often used as flowering hedges, and those varieties that carry edible fruits, like Pereskia aculeata, are also grown to be eaten. Many plants in the Pereskia genus are rare, and there’s so much diversity within the genus that it’s difficult to generalize these plant’s characteristics, but Pereskia is without a doubt one of the most interesting and unusual genera of cacti.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lots of direct sunlight every day; like all cacti, Pereskias will benefit from tons of light exposure.
Water: Err on the side of underwatering rather than overwatering. They can be watered fairly infrequently and survive.
Temperature: There’s some variance depending on the species’ place of origin, but these are generally tropical plants that require warm temperatures.
Soil: Use a typical cactus potting soil that contains some organic material, and make sure their drainage is good to avoid damaging the roots.
Fertilizer: Feed regularly with a balanced, water-soluble cactus fertilizer to increase their propensity to bloom.
Propagation
These cacti can be propagated fairly easily by taking cuttings. Snip off a piece of about a few inches long, treat with a good rooting hormone, and plant in cactus potting mix. It can take a little while for cacti to root, but they aren’t picky about propagation and should grow easily in a new environment. Remember to keep them in a warm, moist area.
Repotting
They like dry conditions and don’t need to be repotted often, but still it’s a good idea to refresh their soil by repotting occasionally. Be careful when repotting any cactus to not get hurt by their sharp spines, and lift the plant from its mix and replace in a new container before backfilling with soil. Do not water for a few weeks after repotting; the plant is still acclimating to its new container.
Grower’s Tips
As with many cacti, Pereskias can be almost ignored and still flourish. One of the major advantages that succulents pose as houseplants is their ease, and overwatering or overfeeding them is a bigger danger than neglecting them because it can damage their roots. If you repot them, remember to leave them alone for a brief period so as to avoid overstressing them, and make sure to keep an eye out for common houseplant pests. Many of these cacti can’t really be grown as houseplants anyway due to their shrubby growth habit, and others are very rare, but when you do find out Pereskias can be good in cultivation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Hatiora is a species of cultivated ornamental cactus with commonly known varieties such as Easter Cactus, Whitsun Cactus or Christmas Cactus, depending on its flowering season. These plants are among the most popular varieties of cultivated cactus. Some varieties, such as Drunken Dream, have arched stems and are sold for hanging baskets. It is an epiphytic plant, one that grows mostly on tree trunks in wet and humid regions.
The stems of Hatiora may be leaf-shaped or flat. Depending on the species, it can grow to maximum lengths ranging between 20 inches (50 cm) and 6 feet (1.8 m). The stems are green all year round and are smooth, rather than toothed or scalloped. Funnel-shaped, small flowers that resemble tiny daisies grow at the end of stem segments. These range in colour from yellow, orange, red and pink. In some conditions, Hatiora can flower twice a year.
Hatiora grows in the wild in tropical rain forests of south Eastern Brazil, as far south as the state of Parana, along the border with Paraguay. Although it grows mostly on tree trunks, it is sometimes found growing on rocky ground. In the wild, Hatiora bloom in spring and will sometimes flower twice in one year.
Growing Conditions
Light: This tropical cacti likes bright partial light only. It should never be exposed to full sunlight or midday sunlight.
Water: Soil should be kept constantly moist, but never soggy. Do not allow water to sit in the dish underneath.
Temperature: Hatioras prefers spring, summer, and fall temperatures around 75-80 °F (24-27 °C). Winter temperatures should be between 45-65 °F (7-18 °C) only.
Soil: Due to its natural growing environment being on rocks or trees, this cacti requires rough soil to grow well. A 1:1 mixture of potting soil to pumice, tree bark, or perlite is required. Pumice is preferred.
Fertilizer: Hatioras prefers fertilization every 14 days. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer, and dilute to half strength. Do not fertilize during resting period.
Grower’s Tips
Hatiora thrives best in indirect light with exposure to morning and evening sun. It prefers a well drained soil. Cactus or epiphytic compost works well. It can be propagated easily through cuttings that can root immediately in soil. Hatiora likes long nights of about 14 hours. Cover the plant with a paper bag to shut out sunlight. Try not to reposition the plant once flower buds appear, as these could fall off during any movement. It needs a month’s rest after flowering, so water sparingly during this period.
The stems of Hatiora may be leaf-shaped or flat. Depending on the species, it can grow to maximum lengths ranging between 20 inches (50 cm) and 6 feet (1.8 m). The stems are green all year round and are smooth, rather than toothed or scalloped. Funnel-shaped, small flowers that resemble tiny daisies grow at the end of stem segments. These range in colour from yellow, orange, red and pink. In some conditions, Hatiora can flower twice a year.
Hatiora grows in the wild in tropical rain forests of south Eastern Brazil, as far south as the state of Parana, along the border with Paraguay. Although it grows mostly on tree trunks, it is sometimes found growing on rocky ground. In the wild, Hatiora bloom in spring and will sometimes flower twice in one year.
Growing Conditions
Light: This tropical cacti likes bright partial light only. It should never be exposed to full sunlight or midday sunlight.
Water: Soil should be kept constantly moist, but never soggy. Do not allow water to sit in the dish underneath.
Temperature: Hatioras prefers spring, summer, and fall temperatures around 75-80 °F (24-27 °C). Winter temperatures should be between 45-65 °F (7-18 °C) only.
Soil: Due to its natural growing environment being on rocks or trees, this cacti requires rough soil to grow well. A 1:1 mixture of potting soil to pumice, tree bark, or perlite is required. Pumice is preferred.
Fertilizer: Hatioras prefers fertilization every 14 days. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer, and dilute to half strength. Do not fertilize during resting period.
Grower’s Tips
Hatiora thrives best in indirect light with exposure to morning and evening sun. It prefers a well drained soil. Cactus or epiphytic compost works well. It can be propagated easily through cuttings that can root immediately in soil. Hatiora likes long nights of about 14 hours. Cover the plant with a paper bag to shut out sunlight. Try not to reposition the plant once flower buds appear, as these could fall off during any movement. It needs a month’s rest after flowering, so water sparingly during this period.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Ariocarpus is one of the succulent plants in the group commonly referred to as a Living Rock. It can survive without water for up to a year. Even though a plant like that seems foolproof, there are many things you can do to improve its health.
Growing Conditions
Soil: You should plant your Ariocarpus in soil specifically formulated for cacti. You can buy cactus mix at your local nursery. Do not use generic soil mixes, because they will not provide enough aeration and drainage. Additionally, using a container without a hole, whether it is a pot or a terrarium, is a bad idea for the same reason.
Light: Ariocarpus need a lot of sun. However, in hot, dry areas, they can be damaged by excessive sunlight, so you should either use a shadecloth to limit their sun, or move them out of the sun during the hottest hours of the day. In more temperate areas, direct sunlight is fine.
Temperature: Ariocarpus plants prefer to be kept at room temperature or slightly lower, and in low humidity.
Water: Water your Ariocarpus when it is dry, but then wait until the soil dries out completely to water it again. The amount of time this takes will vary depending on your climate, and the size of your pot if you use one. Remember, when dealing with any kind of cactus, watering too often is much worse than not watering enough. Do not water during winter.
Repotting
As your Ariocarpus outgrows its containers, you will need to transplant it. If you are raising your plant from a seed or cutting, you should wait at least two years before moving it to a larger pot; moving it sooner could be unhealthy. Overall, it is best to wait until your Ariocarpus grows as wide as your pot. Wait for the soil to dry out, then remove your plant as gently as possible and remove all of the soil that you can. Next, cut off the tip of the main root – this will encourage the growth of new, smaller roots that actually take in more nutrients. Putting an open, wet cut into the dirt can attract fungus, so allow it to dry out before planting your Ariocarpus again.
Now it’s time to get your Ariocarpus back into its pot. The easiest way to plant it, rather than struggling to put in the soil while balancing your plant in the center, is to roll up a newspaper into a cylinder and make a temporary pot. You can wrap it around your plant, and fill it with soil, then once you are finished, put the whole thing into your real pot.
Propagation
Ariocarpus can be grown from seeds, transplanted from cuttings, or transplanted with bare roots. Either way, plant your Ariocarpus in the spring. For a cutting, allow the end to dry out before planting it in moist cactus mix. Keep the soil slightly moist and mist the cutting regularly. For a seed, plant it and cover with a layer of sand. Either way, you will want to avoid using too much water on your Ariocarpus. Additionally, you should keep it out of direct sunlight completely until it grows.
Growing Conditions
Soil: You should plant your Ariocarpus in soil specifically formulated for cacti. You can buy cactus mix at your local nursery. Do not use generic soil mixes, because they will not provide enough aeration and drainage. Additionally, using a container without a hole, whether it is a pot or a terrarium, is a bad idea for the same reason.
Light: Ariocarpus need a lot of sun. However, in hot, dry areas, they can be damaged by excessive sunlight, so you should either use a shadecloth to limit their sun, or move them out of the sun during the hottest hours of the day. In more temperate areas, direct sunlight is fine.
Temperature: Ariocarpus plants prefer to be kept at room temperature or slightly lower, and in low humidity.
Water: Water your Ariocarpus when it is dry, but then wait until the soil dries out completely to water it again. The amount of time this takes will vary depending on your climate, and the size of your pot if you use one. Remember, when dealing with any kind of cactus, watering too often is much worse than not watering enough. Do not water during winter.
Repotting
As your Ariocarpus outgrows its containers, you will need to transplant it. If you are raising your plant from a seed or cutting, you should wait at least two years before moving it to a larger pot; moving it sooner could be unhealthy. Overall, it is best to wait until your Ariocarpus grows as wide as your pot. Wait for the soil to dry out, then remove your plant as gently as possible and remove all of the soil that you can. Next, cut off the tip of the main root – this will encourage the growth of new, smaller roots that actually take in more nutrients. Putting an open, wet cut into the dirt can attract fungus, so allow it to dry out before planting your Ariocarpus again.
Now it’s time to get your Ariocarpus back into its pot. The easiest way to plant it, rather than struggling to put in the soil while balancing your plant in the center, is to roll up a newspaper into a cylinder and make a temporary pot. You can wrap it around your plant, and fill it with soil, then once you are finished, put the whole thing into your real pot.
Propagation
Ariocarpus can be grown from seeds, transplanted from cuttings, or transplanted with bare roots. Either way, plant your Ariocarpus in the spring. For a cutting, allow the end to dry out before planting it in moist cactus mix. Keep the soil slightly moist and mist the cutting regularly. For a seed, plant it and cover with a layer of sand. Either way, you will want to avoid using too much water on your Ariocarpus. Additionally, you should keep it out of direct sunlight completely until it grows.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Ceropegia contains a diverse group of 160 named species native to Africa, southern Asia, and Australia. Some of these perrenial plants have succulent stems, which may be dwarf or vine-like and posess fibrous roots, while others have tubers and relatively thin stems, along which new tubers may form in some species. Species with fleshy thickened roots are the most difficult to grow. The leaves are opposite, but may be vestigal on species with succulent stems.
Flowers occur either singly or in umbel-like clusters and have a tubular corolla 2 or more times as long as its diameter and longer than the 5 lobes. The base of the tube is usually inflated and the tube may have downwardly orientated hairs on the inside and hairs on the outside and at the edges of the lobes. Colours include reds, purples, yellows, greens and mixtures of these. Flies entering the corolla may become trapped by the hairs until the flower wilts. The tips of the lobes are fused together to form a cage-like flower structure in many species, but are open in others.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ceropegia does well in bright light. It does not need full sun. If the light is too low the stem will stretch and the leaves will be far apart. It will look better if grow in enough light. Also the purple coloring will fade.
Water: It like to be water regularly. The leaves should be thick and full. If they are paper thick the plant is low on water.
Soil: Ceropegia will grow in any type of soils. Add more perlite to the mix so the roots do not get too wet. In wetter soil mix the plant must be allowed to dry between watering.
Fertilizer: Alway with fertilizer less is more. A little fertilizer is helpful. Using too much will possibly burn the roots.
Propagation
It is usually from cuttings. If they is a tuber forming on one of the stems. They can be place against soil in a pot. When they have rooted down you can cut the stem and have a separate plant. You can also cut off a tuber and part of the stem and coil it around the small pot. It will have the chance to root. Most succulent plants will root from small pieces. It is nature way to maximize the chances for the plants survival if not the mother plant then pieces of it.
Grower’s Tips
A gritty compost is suitable, and clay pots help with drainage, especially for the species with white thickened roots which are the most susceptible to rotting and for species forming large tubers. Ceropegias appreciate water and a little fertilizer during warm weather, although some care with watering is required for the more difficult species. The vine-like species can suffer from prolonged drought.
Typically, many of these species grow and climb naturally among bushes which provide shade and humidity to the base, while the vegetative growth is in the light. Where tubers occur, they are best planted on the surface of the compost, and the vegetative growth allowed to twine around supports or to trail down from a hanging pot. The latter mode of growth has the advantage of not using valuable bench space. Small tubers formed at joints in the thin stems of some species can be used for propagation. If the tuber rots or dries out, don’t panic. As long as some of the top growth is still in reasonable condition, it may be possible to save the plant by re-rooting stems in damp gravel.
In the more succulent species, stems layered on the compost will produce roots from their lower surface, and climbing reproductive flowering shoots which can be allowed to hang down or twine around supports. Vine-like species readily root from cuttings inserted vertically in the soil to the bottom of a pair of leaves. A minimum over-wintering temperature of 50°F (10°C) is adequate providing the plants are kept dry.
Flowers occur either singly or in umbel-like clusters and have a tubular corolla 2 or more times as long as its diameter and longer than the 5 lobes. The base of the tube is usually inflated and the tube may have downwardly orientated hairs on the inside and hairs on the outside and at the edges of the lobes. Colours include reds, purples, yellows, greens and mixtures of these. Flies entering the corolla may become trapped by the hairs until the flower wilts. The tips of the lobes are fused together to form a cage-like flower structure in many species, but are open in others.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ceropegia does well in bright light. It does not need full sun. If the light is too low the stem will stretch and the leaves will be far apart. It will look better if grow in enough light. Also the purple coloring will fade.
Water: It like to be water regularly. The leaves should be thick and full. If they are paper thick the plant is low on water.
Soil: Ceropegia will grow in any type of soils. Add more perlite to the mix so the roots do not get too wet. In wetter soil mix the plant must be allowed to dry between watering.
Fertilizer: Alway with fertilizer less is more. A little fertilizer is helpful. Using too much will possibly burn the roots.
Propagation
It is usually from cuttings. If they is a tuber forming on one of the stems. They can be place against soil in a pot. When they have rooted down you can cut the stem and have a separate plant. You can also cut off a tuber and part of the stem and coil it around the small pot. It will have the chance to root. Most succulent plants will root from small pieces. It is nature way to maximize the chances for the plants survival if not the mother plant then pieces of it.
Grower’s Tips
A gritty compost is suitable, and clay pots help with drainage, especially for the species with white thickened roots which are the most susceptible to rotting and for species forming large tubers. Ceropegias appreciate water and a little fertilizer during warm weather, although some care with watering is required for the more difficult species. The vine-like species can suffer from prolonged drought.
Typically, many of these species grow and climb naturally among bushes which provide shade and humidity to the base, while the vegetative growth is in the light. Where tubers occur, they are best planted on the surface of the compost, and the vegetative growth allowed to twine around supports or to trail down from a hanging pot. The latter mode of growth has the advantage of not using valuable bench space. Small tubers formed at joints in the thin stems of some species can be used for propagation. If the tuber rots or dries out, don’t panic. As long as some of the top growth is still in reasonable condition, it may be possible to save the plant by re-rooting stems in damp gravel.
In the more succulent species, stems layered on the compost will produce roots from their lower surface, and climbing reproductive flowering shoots which can be allowed to hang down or twine around supports. Vine-like species readily root from cuttings inserted vertically in the soil to the bottom of a pair of leaves. A minimum over-wintering temperature of 50°F (10°C) is adequate providing the plants are kept dry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Succulents are an invaluable plant, because they are beautiful and nearly indestructible. Succulents are water-retaining and are adapted to arid climates and soil conditions. High temperatures and low precipitation have forced these plants to store water in their leaves, stems, and roots. This adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of different leaf forms and plant shapes.
Some of the best known succulents are cacti, which are a unique subgroup that has evolved into many different species. The Succulents also includes some well known plants such as Aloe and Agave. No matter which variety of succulent you are growing, however, their requirements are very similar:
Size and Placement
Place the largest most dramatic first and the smaller ones around them. Remember many succulents can’t be cut to a lower height after they have grown. When placing plants think about how tall the plant will get in the location.
Why are some succulents smaller and more expensive than the larger succulents?
The smaller varieties generally grow slower than the faster growing varieties thus they are often older.
Temperature
Succulents can handle the cold as well as the heat. Just like the desert which can have cold nights, a succulent can live in temperatures down to even 40 degrees F (5 degrees C).
Light
Succulents prefer light such as in the open garden or in a south-facing window. Some species will scorch if exposed to direct sunlight and the leaves will change to a brown or white as the tissues are destroyed. Watch the leaves as an indication of if the sun exposure is correct. A succulent without enough light, however, will begin to stretch with an elongated stem. If this happens, provide better light and prune your succulent back to its original shape.
Water
Succulents will need more water in the summer and during establishment. Water generously but allow the soil to dry in-between watering. This is why good drainage is important. In winter, the plant will go dormant so water it every other month. If you over-water you could cause plant rot. The succulent may look healthy at first during over-watering, but eventually will die as the rot has begun in the roots and isn’t showing above ground yet.
Over-Watering
Over-watered succulents will look discolored and soft—yellow or white with loss of color. Remove it from the pot and look for rotted roots. Rotted roots should be cut off and replant your succulent in a drier area.
Under-Watering
Under-watered succulents will stop growing and shed leaves or generate brown spots on their leaves.
Planting/Potting Soils
Your succulents should be planted in a soil that provides for good drainage. Succulents will benefit from an inorganic agent like perlite which will help aeration and drainage.
Fertilizer
Fertilize during summer growing season but stop entirely during the winter.
Some of the best known succulents are cacti, which are a unique subgroup that has evolved into many different species. The Succulents also includes some well known plants such as Aloe and Agave. No matter which variety of succulent you are growing, however, their requirements are very similar:
Size and Placement
Place the largest most dramatic first and the smaller ones around them. Remember many succulents can’t be cut to a lower height after they have grown. When placing plants think about how tall the plant will get in the location.
Why are some succulents smaller and more expensive than the larger succulents?
The smaller varieties generally grow slower than the faster growing varieties thus they are often older.
Temperature
Succulents can handle the cold as well as the heat. Just like the desert which can have cold nights, a succulent can live in temperatures down to even 40 degrees F (5 degrees C).
Light
Succulents prefer light such as in the open garden or in a south-facing window. Some species will scorch if exposed to direct sunlight and the leaves will change to a brown or white as the tissues are destroyed. Watch the leaves as an indication of if the sun exposure is correct. A succulent without enough light, however, will begin to stretch with an elongated stem. If this happens, provide better light and prune your succulent back to its original shape.
Water
Succulents will need more water in the summer and during establishment. Water generously but allow the soil to dry in-between watering. This is why good drainage is important. In winter, the plant will go dormant so water it every other month. If you over-water you could cause plant rot. The succulent may look healthy at first during over-watering, but eventually will die as the rot has begun in the roots and isn’t showing above ground yet.
Over-Watering
Over-watered succulents will look discolored and soft—yellow or white with loss of color. Remove it from the pot and look for rotted roots. Rotted roots should be cut off and replant your succulent in a drier area.
Under-Watering
Under-watered succulents will stop growing and shed leaves or generate brown spots on their leaves.
Planting/Potting Soils
Your succulents should be planted in a soil that provides for good drainage. Succulents will benefit from an inorganic agent like perlite which will help aeration and drainage.
Fertilizer
Fertilize during summer growing season but stop entirely during the winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Native to South Africa, these clump forming succulent plants have similarities with the Aloe plants and they’re related with the same subfamily. There are also subspecies grown.
In their natural habitat (subtropical) Zebra Plants receive plenty of sun and periods without rainfall. Their succulent nature enables them to store water within the thick leaves when there’s no frequent rainfall.
The main difference between the two species (Haworthia fasciata and Haworthia attenuata) is the Haworthia fasciata has smoother inner leaves unlike the Haworthia attenuata that displays tubercles (warty growths). The Fasciata is supposedly more rarer than the Attenuata and seems to have fatter leaves.
Primarily they are grown in gardens. However, they are also grown in greenhouses, conservatories and within homes.
Flowering: If the Zebra Plant blooms appear (may not indoors) they are small tubular white or pink flowers growing from an inflorescence (thin kind of stem).
Foliage: The Zebra Plant forms a rosette of leaves. These leaves are very thick and patterned with Zebra like white stripes or tubercles that look like warts. They’re a clump forming plant in the wild so they can be grown with several or as many as you like in one container.
Growing Conditions
Temperature: 65°F – 80°F (8°C – 26°C) temperatures are very good and not much below 50°F (10°C).
Light: Display Zebra Plant anywhere it can receive plenty of sun or bright light. South facing windows will provide the most sun, however, east or west provide direct sun part of the day that I find more suitable.
Water: During the growing season from April to September water the Zebra Plant thoroughly and then water when the soil becomes dry to the touch (not bone dry though). Winter is a tricky time for these plants although they are a tough species. Many growers will overwater then alongside cold temperatures or drafts the plant can become very sick, or even die. The leaves are storage organs so during the winter water much less and allow the top soil to dry out.
Soil: Use a cactus potting mix that drains wells and provides plenty of air to the small roots. If making you own mix or buying another type, use part potting soil, part perlite and part sand.
Air Humidity: Normal room humidity will suffice.
Fertilizer: From April to September you can feed Zebra Plants with a diluted liquid fertilizer once every month. Do not feed during winter.
Repotting
Once the Zebra Plant outgrows the pot you can repot, during spring. Only move to a slightly bigger pot. Every two years I would renew the soil even if repotting is not required.
Propagation
Zebra Plants are propagated in the same way as Aloe plants. Propagate with a couple of inches of leaves, letting the wound heal for a couple of days before planting (let them dry out). They also produce pups (offsets) that can be removed from the mother plant and replanted. Either method you should water the soil once and then wait to see a small sign of new growth to prevent killing them with overwatering.
In their natural habitat (subtropical) Zebra Plants receive plenty of sun and periods without rainfall. Their succulent nature enables them to store water within the thick leaves when there’s no frequent rainfall.
The main difference between the two species (Haworthia fasciata and Haworthia attenuata) is the Haworthia fasciata has smoother inner leaves unlike the Haworthia attenuata that displays tubercles (warty growths). The Fasciata is supposedly more rarer than the Attenuata and seems to have fatter leaves.
Primarily they are grown in gardens. However, they are also grown in greenhouses, conservatories and within homes.
Flowering: If the Zebra Plant blooms appear (may not indoors) they are small tubular white or pink flowers growing from an inflorescence (thin kind of stem).
Foliage: The Zebra Plant forms a rosette of leaves. These leaves are very thick and patterned with Zebra like white stripes or tubercles that look like warts. They’re a clump forming plant in the wild so they can be grown with several or as many as you like in one container.
Growing Conditions
Temperature: 65°F – 80°F (8°C – 26°C) temperatures are very good and not much below 50°F (10°C).
Light: Display Zebra Plant anywhere it can receive plenty of sun or bright light. South facing windows will provide the most sun, however, east or west provide direct sun part of the day that I find more suitable.
Water: During the growing season from April to September water the Zebra Plant thoroughly and then water when the soil becomes dry to the touch (not bone dry though). Winter is a tricky time for these plants although they are a tough species. Many growers will overwater then alongside cold temperatures or drafts the plant can become very sick, or even die. The leaves are storage organs so during the winter water much less and allow the top soil to dry out.
Soil: Use a cactus potting mix that drains wells and provides plenty of air to the small roots. If making you own mix or buying another type, use part potting soil, part perlite and part sand.
Air Humidity: Normal room humidity will suffice.
Fertilizer: From April to September you can feed Zebra Plants with a diluted liquid fertilizer once every month. Do not feed during winter.
Repotting
Once the Zebra Plant outgrows the pot you can repot, during spring. Only move to a slightly bigger pot. Every two years I would renew the soil even if repotting is not required.
Propagation
Zebra Plants are propagated in the same way as Aloe plants. Propagate with a couple of inches of leaves, letting the wound heal for a couple of days before planting (let them dry out). They also produce pups (offsets) that can be removed from the mother plant and replanted. Either method you should water the soil once and then wait to see a small sign of new growth to prevent killing them with overwatering.
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