文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are considered low-maintenance plants even when grown indoors. The leaves and stems hold water as an adaptation to growing in arid areas. These plants offer unusual shapes, textures and forms. They make good houseplants for year-round growing inside. Plants grown in pots outdoors can be brought indoors during the winter to protect the cold-temperature sensitive succulent varieties.
1. Feed the succulents one last time at the end of summer. Succulents only need diluted fertilizer while they are actively growing. Stop feeding when the plants stop growing for the year and go dormant, which occurs when the temperatures drop and the light level falls. Too much fertilizer causes succulents to develop soft leaves, which are prone to rot.
2. Place the dormant succulent in an area with at least 3 to 4 hours of bright light. Succulents need less light during the winter than when they are actively growing during the summer. Succulents survive with indirect light during the winter.
3. Keep the temperature of the room the succulents are in around 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 degrees Celsius) during the winter. Many succulents such as Aeoniums do not tolerate colder temperatures.
4. Pour water into the top of the succulent container until it drains out the bottom. Water the succulents deeply but less often in the winter. The dormant plants do not use as much water as when they are actively growing. Water the plants about once every one to two months.
5. Check the leaves every month for aphids or mealy bugs, which look like tiny cotton balls. Look under the leaves as well. Move an infested succulent away from other plants. Fill a spray bottle with 3 parts rubbing alcohol mixed with 1 part water, and mist it onto the plant to kill the pests. Keep the succulent away from the rest of the plants for a couple of weeks just in case a few of the bugs survive the first spray. Repeat the rubbing alcohol application until all the pests are gone.
1. Feed the succulents one last time at the end of summer. Succulents only need diluted fertilizer while they are actively growing. Stop feeding when the plants stop growing for the year and go dormant, which occurs when the temperatures drop and the light level falls. Too much fertilizer causes succulents to develop soft leaves, which are prone to rot.
2. Place the dormant succulent in an area with at least 3 to 4 hours of bright light. Succulents need less light during the winter than when they are actively growing during the summer. Succulents survive with indirect light during the winter.
3. Keep the temperature of the room the succulents are in around 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 degrees Celsius) during the winter. Many succulents such as Aeoniums do not tolerate colder temperatures.
4. Pour water into the top of the succulent container until it drains out the bottom. Water the succulents deeply but less often in the winter. The dormant plants do not use as much water as when they are actively growing. Water the plants about once every one to two months.
5. Check the leaves every month for aphids or mealy bugs, which look like tiny cotton balls. Look under the leaves as well. Move an infested succulent away from other plants. Fill a spray bottle with 3 parts rubbing alcohol mixed with 1 part water, and mist it onto the plant to kill the pests. Keep the succulent away from the rest of the plants for a couple of weeks just in case a few of the bugs survive the first spray. Repeat the rubbing alcohol application until all the pests are gone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents and their care are different from annuals, perennials, shrubs, or other greenery. They’re drought tolerant, easy to care for, uniquely shaped, and are able to thrive in places that would likely kill other plants. Whether you’re new to growing these living treasures, or you’re more experienced, some of these myths may surprise you. It’s time to dispel these common myths that keep your plants from thriving.
1. All Succulents are Hardy
Although succulents are hardy (they’re most definitely hardier than most plants), hardy doesn’t mean they’re capable of handling extreme conditions for long periods of time. Some succulents are hardier than others. For outdoor planting, it is recommended to aim toward hardier succulents since they are able to withstand more. Some good choices for hardy succulents include Sedum and Sempervivum.
2. Full, Direct Sunlight is Necessary
Many species can handle full sun during the day. This doesn’t apply to all succulents. Most succulents enjoy bright morning sunlight. Afternoon sunlight is typically too hot and harsh. In fact, full, direct sunlight, can harm your plant rather than help it. Full sun increases the likelihood of your succulent leaves burning and killing it. While succulents are considered to be sun-loving plants, be aware how long you keep your succulent in full sun.
3. Succulents should be Planted in Sand
Some assume that sand is best suited for planting succulents. Indeed, succulents need excellent drainage, but more than likely sand is not the best option. Sand can actually be too draining. When water penetrates the sand, it drains away quickly and the plant will receive very little water. We recommend using succulent and cactus soil.
4. Succulents are Cacti, Cacti are Succulents
Succulents and cacti are not all one in the same. Most cacti are considered succulents, but there are a few that are not. Not all succulents are cacti either. These would include Echeveria, Crassula, Euphorbia, Sempervivum, Aeonium, Sedum, x Graptosedum, and Haworthia.
5. Succulents Can Handle any Weather
Different succulents call for different care. Most succulents can handle various weather conditions, but they do prefer less humid, sunny weather. They are hardier than other perennial plants in your garden, but they handle wetter and colder climates differently. A harsh winter may cause the plant to freeze and consistent humidity may lead to root rot. Just remember, succulents enjoy a bit of neglect.
6. All Succulents are not Edible
Many succulents are edible, but be aware of the plants you choose to eat. While many are harmless, some can be toxic to humans and animals if ingested, especially in large quantities. Be conscious of the toxicity of all your plants before exposing them to children or animals in your home.
7. Top Dressing Provides Extra Drainage for Succulents
Top dressing is a fun way to add texture and color to your container gardening. Just be careful that your top dressing is not trapping moisture inside the container, which causes root rot.
8. Closed, Sealed Spaces are Tolerable
Succulents need fresh air and ventilation. Your plants will not last long in closed terrariums. Moisture has no way to escape allowing mold to enter and your succulents may get root rot. Don’t put the terrarium on a full sun windowsill, as its leaves will burn.
1. All Succulents are Hardy
Although succulents are hardy (they’re most definitely hardier than most plants), hardy doesn’t mean they’re capable of handling extreme conditions for long periods of time. Some succulents are hardier than others. For outdoor planting, it is recommended to aim toward hardier succulents since they are able to withstand more. Some good choices for hardy succulents include Sedum and Sempervivum.
2. Full, Direct Sunlight is Necessary
Many species can handle full sun during the day. This doesn’t apply to all succulents. Most succulents enjoy bright morning sunlight. Afternoon sunlight is typically too hot and harsh. In fact, full, direct sunlight, can harm your plant rather than help it. Full sun increases the likelihood of your succulent leaves burning and killing it. While succulents are considered to be sun-loving plants, be aware how long you keep your succulent in full sun.
3. Succulents should be Planted in Sand
Some assume that sand is best suited for planting succulents. Indeed, succulents need excellent drainage, but more than likely sand is not the best option. Sand can actually be too draining. When water penetrates the sand, it drains away quickly and the plant will receive very little water. We recommend using succulent and cactus soil.
4. Succulents are Cacti, Cacti are Succulents
Succulents and cacti are not all one in the same. Most cacti are considered succulents, but there are a few that are not. Not all succulents are cacti either. These would include Echeveria, Crassula, Euphorbia, Sempervivum, Aeonium, Sedum, x Graptosedum, and Haworthia.
5. Succulents Can Handle any Weather
Different succulents call for different care. Most succulents can handle various weather conditions, but they do prefer less humid, sunny weather. They are hardier than other perennial plants in your garden, but they handle wetter and colder climates differently. A harsh winter may cause the plant to freeze and consistent humidity may lead to root rot. Just remember, succulents enjoy a bit of neglect.
6. All Succulents are not Edible
Many succulents are edible, but be aware of the plants you choose to eat. While many are harmless, some can be toxic to humans and animals if ingested, especially in large quantities. Be conscious of the toxicity of all your plants before exposing them to children or animals in your home.
7. Top Dressing Provides Extra Drainage for Succulents
Top dressing is a fun way to add texture and color to your container gardening. Just be careful that your top dressing is not trapping moisture inside the container, which causes root rot.
8. Closed, Sealed Spaces are Tolerable
Succulents need fresh air and ventilation. Your plants will not last long in closed terrariums. Moisture has no way to escape allowing mold to enter and your succulents may get root rot. Don’t put the terrarium on a full sun windowsill, as its leaves will burn.
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이대강：Fhj
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Jungle Cacti are a group of cacti that grow in rain forests. Unlike their desert relatives, these plants do not resemble one another and many do not have spines. Jungle Cacti include those species in genera such as Acanthocereus, Disocactus, Epiphyllum, Hatiora, Hylocereus, Lepismium, Rhipsalis, Schlumbergera, Selenicereus, and perhaps a few others. Almost everyone has seen at least one representative from this group even if they were unaware that the plant was actually a cactus. The most common of these are the Holiday Cacti: Easter Cactus (Hatiora gaertneri), Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi). These plants are all true cacti despite their lack of big spines and inability to withstand the harsh conditions of the desert. Now when we associate “cactus” with one of these, it does not seem unusual that they would require different care when growing than the stereotypical image that comes to mind when we think about the family Cactaceae.
Soil
Most Jungle Cacti are either epiphytic or lithophytic meaning they grow in trees or grow on rocks respectively. This type of plant gets its nutrients from the air or from dead leaves and other debris that may have collected in crotches, cracks, or crevasses. It is important to note that there are no parasitic cacti. Those that grow in trees do so for support, but do not sap nutrients from their host. For best results we’ll want our soil to mimic these natural conditions.
Some good ingredients for creating a suitable potting mixture for Jungle Cacti include: orchid bark, pearlite, potting soil, peat, coir, pumice, and oak leaf mold. The most important aspect of the mixture is good drainage. The pearlite helps create this by keeping the soil loose and “airy” and so does the orchid bark. Additionally the orchid bark tends to hold more moisture than pearlite or gravel. Pumice can be substituted for the pearlite. Keep in mind that the orchid bark will eventually break down into soil. This will create a very rich soil that may not be as effective in keeping the roots healthy. Repot your Jungle Cacti every 2 or three years with a fresh mix. The best time to do this is shortly after your plant has finished blooming. This is when it will be ready to start growing again. You might also add some fertilizer to the new mix.
Water
Well drained soil is critical for keeping the water from rotting the roots off the plant. With the proper soil, however, watering is really quite simple. The easiest way to gauge whether or not it’s time to water is to stick your finger in the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil. If the soil is dry, go ahead and water. If it’s not, wait! Don’t let your Jungle Cactus go too long without water. If the stem segments are shriveled and the soil is dry, it is probably in need of water. Be careful! If the plant is over watered, the stems will also look shriveled, but the soil will be damp. If this is the case, do not give it more water. An over-watered plant will start to turn yellowish, then get more and more mushy and dark reddish-brown like a rotten apple. This is because the cells took in so much water they broke and are now dead and rotting. This usually happens from the ends first. This will continue even after you stop watering too much, but often you will have enough plant left to start over.
Light
Jungle Cacti can survive in a wide range of light conditions. However, we’ll assume the goal is not to have plants simply surviving, but thriving. For the plants to thrive the amount and intensity of light are key ingredients.
There are three lighting situations that are not as ideal, but often times necessary due to space constraints. These are morning shade/full afternoon sun, full shade, and full sun. Let’s explore these conditions further. It may seem that shade in the morning and full-sun in the afternoon should produce the same results as full morning sun/afternoon shade, but it doesn’t. This is because the temperature is cooler in the morning than the afternoon and for many plants the afternoon sun is a little too intense and plants will often take on a sickly-yellow appearance and may develop spots. In full-sun these symptoms will be even more apparent. As with most things in nature there are exceptions and some plants actually prefer full-sun and thrive in it. In full shade the plants will don a dark-green healthy appearance, but the stems will be stretched out long and thin in an attempt to reach more light.
Not only is light essential for healthy stems, it also triggers blooming in many species. In ideal conditions a particular plant may exhibit fantastic growth with many show-quality stems, but they won’t bloom. In this situation exposing the plant to longer and more intense sunlight will trigger it to bloom. Don’t forget that plants can get sunburn just like people do. If you have a plant that has been mostly shaded, don’t just stick it out in direct sunlight or you will certainly end up with a badly scared cactus. This is even true for desert cacti that occur naturally in extremely hot, intense sunlight.
Soil
Most Jungle Cacti are either epiphytic or lithophytic meaning they grow in trees or grow on rocks respectively. This type of plant gets its nutrients from the air or from dead leaves and other debris that may have collected in crotches, cracks, or crevasses. It is important to note that there are no parasitic cacti. Those that grow in trees do so for support, but do not sap nutrients from their host. For best results we’ll want our soil to mimic these natural conditions.
Some good ingredients for creating a suitable potting mixture for Jungle Cacti include: orchid bark, pearlite, potting soil, peat, coir, pumice, and oak leaf mold. The most important aspect of the mixture is good drainage. The pearlite helps create this by keeping the soil loose and “airy” and so does the orchid bark. Additionally the orchid bark tends to hold more moisture than pearlite or gravel. Pumice can be substituted for the pearlite. Keep in mind that the orchid bark will eventually break down into soil. This will create a very rich soil that may not be as effective in keeping the roots healthy. Repot your Jungle Cacti every 2 or three years with a fresh mix. The best time to do this is shortly after your plant has finished blooming. This is when it will be ready to start growing again. You might also add some fertilizer to the new mix.
Water
Well drained soil is critical for keeping the water from rotting the roots off the plant. With the proper soil, however, watering is really quite simple. The easiest way to gauge whether or not it’s time to water is to stick your finger in the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil. If the soil is dry, go ahead and water. If it’s not, wait! Don’t let your Jungle Cactus go too long without water. If the stem segments are shriveled and the soil is dry, it is probably in need of water. Be careful! If the plant is over watered, the stems will also look shriveled, but the soil will be damp. If this is the case, do not give it more water. An over-watered plant will start to turn yellowish, then get more and more mushy and dark reddish-brown like a rotten apple. This is because the cells took in so much water they broke and are now dead and rotting. This usually happens from the ends first. This will continue even after you stop watering too much, but often you will have enough plant left to start over.
Light
Jungle Cacti can survive in a wide range of light conditions. However, we’ll assume the goal is not to have plants simply surviving, but thriving. For the plants to thrive the amount and intensity of light are key ingredients.
There are three lighting situations that are not as ideal, but often times necessary due to space constraints. These are morning shade/full afternoon sun, full shade, and full sun. Let’s explore these conditions further. It may seem that shade in the morning and full-sun in the afternoon should produce the same results as full morning sun/afternoon shade, but it doesn’t. This is because the temperature is cooler in the morning than the afternoon and for many plants the afternoon sun is a little too intense and plants will often take on a sickly-yellow appearance and may develop spots. In full-sun these symptoms will be even more apparent. As with most things in nature there are exceptions and some plants actually prefer full-sun and thrive in it. In full shade the plants will don a dark-green healthy appearance, but the stems will be stretched out long and thin in an attempt to reach more light.
Not only is light essential for healthy stems, it also triggers blooming in many species. In ideal conditions a particular plant may exhibit fantastic growth with many show-quality stems, but they won’t bloom. In this situation exposing the plant to longer and more intense sunlight will trigger it to bloom. Don’t forget that plants can get sunburn just like people do. If you have a plant that has been mostly shaded, don’t just stick it out in direct sunlight or you will certainly end up with a badly scared cactus. This is even true for desert cacti that occur naturally in extremely hot, intense sunlight.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Cacti are flowering plants, so every kind of cactus is capable of blooming when it is mature. Whether or not an individual cactus plant blooms depends on its age and the care it gets. Some cacti don’t bloom until they are more than 30 years old. Others won’t bloom, even if they are old enough, unless they get proper light conditions, watering and fertilization. This is especially true for potted cacti. Holiday Cacti grown indoors, such as Christmas Cactus, won’t bloom unless they get long nights and short days.
Columnar Cacti
Tall-growing columnar cacti often take years before they bloom for the first time if grown from seed. If you root a branch from a mature, already-blooming columnar cactus, it will keep blooming after it is separated from the mother plant and rooted. However, some cacti, such as Saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea), native to Arizona in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, have branches that won’t root, so Saguaro has to be grown from seed, with a 40- to 55-year wait for the first flower. Some columnar cacti that produce flowers for the first time after 10 to 20 years and can live outdoors in USDA zones 9 through 11 are Peruvian Apple (Cereus repandus) with blue stems and large white night-blooming flowers, Senita Cactus (Pachycereus schottii) with gray-green stems and small pink flowers produced amid an area of dense shaggy spines, and Mexican Fence Post (Pachycereus marginatus) with bright green stems that have white-defined stem ridges and smaller white flowers. Columnar cacti are effective landscaping plants even without flowers.
Short-stem Cacti
Short-columnar cacti with mature stems below 2 feet (60 cm) tall usually flower within five years from germination. Hedgehog Cacti (Echinocereus spp.) are native to the United States and Mexico, and make mounding clumps of many stems over time. Large pink, magenta or red flowers are abundant in spring. Depending on the species, Hedgehog Cactus grows in USDA zones 5, for red-flowered short claret cup (Echinocereus coccineus), through 11. Easter Lily Cactus (Echinopsis oxygona and hybrids) are hardy in USDA zones 8 through 11. They produce huge funnel-shaped flowers in white, pink, lavender, magenta or red. For the size of the plant, Peanut Cactus (Echinopsis chamaecereus) produces large flowers. Stems up to 6 inches (15 cm) long, covered with weak white spines, crawl along the ground and produce abundant bright orange flowers over 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide in spring. Peanut Cactus grows outdoors in USDA zones 8 through 11.
Round Cacti
Some of the most floriferous cacti belong here, such as Pincushion Cacti (Mammillaria spp. and hybrids) and Rebutias (Rebutia spp. and hybrids). They usually bloom within three to four years after sprouting. Pincushion Cacti are native to the United States and Mexico, producing star-shaped flowers in a ring around the top of the stem. Although round when young, some elongate to small columns. Flowers are white, pink, magenta, lavender, red, yellow or green, and plants grow outdoors in USDA zones 8 through 10. Rebutias are native to South America. Tidy low-growing plants cluster with age, and red, yellow, orange or purple flowers come from near the base of the stem. Rebutias are hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11.
Conditions that Encourage Bloom
Since cacti grow as container plants in any USDA zone, give them proper care and they will reward you with blossoms. Most cacti need at least four hours of sunlight a day, preferably morning sunlight. Water them regularly during the growing season, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry before watering again until water comes through the pot’s drainage holes. Don’t let water remain in pot saucers. Use well-draining soilless potting mix. Fertilize them monthly from when they begin spring growth to the end of summer with a half-strength low-nitrogen high-phosphorus formula, which promotes bloom. Allow the cactus to become somewhat pot-bound for best bloom. Decrease watering in winter, and give your cacti a winter dormancy period with lower temperatures (50°F/10°C).
Holiday Cacti
Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) look so different than desert cacti that some people are surprised that they are cacti. They look different because they grow on Brazilian rain forest trees as epiphytes, and their stems are flattened and green, looking leaf-like. They need different care than desert cacti. Holiday Cacti are triggered to bloom in fall and winter by cooling temperatures, increasing night length and decreasing day length with only 8 to 10 hours of light. Most of the year they prefer partial shade, but in fall and winter they can be in sunlight.
Columnar Cacti
Tall-growing columnar cacti often take years before they bloom for the first time if grown from seed. If you root a branch from a mature, already-blooming columnar cactus, it will keep blooming after it is separated from the mother plant and rooted. However, some cacti, such as Saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea), native to Arizona in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, have branches that won’t root, so Saguaro has to be grown from seed, with a 40- to 55-year wait for the first flower. Some columnar cacti that produce flowers for the first time after 10 to 20 years and can live outdoors in USDA zones 9 through 11 are Peruvian Apple (Cereus repandus) with blue stems and large white night-blooming flowers, Senita Cactus (Pachycereus schottii) with gray-green stems and small pink flowers produced amid an area of dense shaggy spines, and Mexican Fence Post (Pachycereus marginatus) with bright green stems that have white-defined stem ridges and smaller white flowers. Columnar cacti are effective landscaping plants even without flowers.
Short-stem Cacti
Short-columnar cacti with mature stems below 2 feet (60 cm) tall usually flower within five years from germination. Hedgehog Cacti (Echinocereus spp.) are native to the United States and Mexico, and make mounding clumps of many stems over time. Large pink, magenta or red flowers are abundant in spring. Depending on the species, Hedgehog Cactus grows in USDA zones 5, for red-flowered short claret cup (Echinocereus coccineus), through 11. Easter Lily Cactus (Echinopsis oxygona and hybrids) are hardy in USDA zones 8 through 11. They produce huge funnel-shaped flowers in white, pink, lavender, magenta or red. For the size of the plant, Peanut Cactus (Echinopsis chamaecereus) produces large flowers. Stems up to 6 inches (15 cm) long, covered with weak white spines, crawl along the ground and produce abundant bright orange flowers over 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide in spring. Peanut Cactus grows outdoors in USDA zones 8 through 11.
Round Cacti
Some of the most floriferous cacti belong here, such as Pincushion Cacti (Mammillaria spp. and hybrids) and Rebutias (Rebutia spp. and hybrids). They usually bloom within three to four years after sprouting. Pincushion Cacti are native to the United States and Mexico, producing star-shaped flowers in a ring around the top of the stem. Although round when young, some elongate to small columns. Flowers are white, pink, magenta, lavender, red, yellow or green, and plants grow outdoors in USDA zones 8 through 10. Rebutias are native to South America. Tidy low-growing plants cluster with age, and red, yellow, orange or purple flowers come from near the base of the stem. Rebutias are hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11.
Conditions that Encourage Bloom
Since cacti grow as container plants in any USDA zone, give them proper care and they will reward you with blossoms. Most cacti need at least four hours of sunlight a day, preferably morning sunlight. Water them regularly during the growing season, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry before watering again until water comes through the pot’s drainage holes. Don’t let water remain in pot saucers. Use well-draining soilless potting mix. Fertilize them monthly from when they begin spring growth to the end of summer with a half-strength low-nitrogen high-phosphorus formula, which promotes bloom. Allow the cactus to become somewhat pot-bound for best bloom. Decrease watering in winter, and give your cacti a winter dormancy period with lower temperatures (50°F/10°C).
Holiday Cacti
Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) look so different than desert cacti that some people are surprised that they are cacti. They look different because they grow on Brazilian rain forest trees as epiphytes, and their stems are flattened and green, looking leaf-like. They need different care than desert cacti. Holiday Cacti are triggered to bloom in fall and winter by cooling temperatures, increasing night length and decreasing day length with only 8 to 10 hours of light. Most of the year they prefer partial shade, but in fall and winter they can be in sunlight.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are all the rage and with good reason. They are beautiful, interesting, and in most cases easy to care for. They are often used as decor both indoors and out. Succulents are living plants that require some care to survive and thrive, and while caring for them is not complex, knowing the basics will help you have the healthiest plants around.
Succulents are a general name for any plant that has a swollen part that can hold excess water. This could occur in the leaves, stem, or even roots. Most commonly, people refer to succulents as plants with fleshy leaves, typically identified as types of Sedum, Sempervivium, Echeveria, Aeonium, and Crassula. Understanding that the word “succulents” doesn’t refer to a type of plant, but instead describes its characteristics, will help when understanding how to care for them.
Choosing Succulents
As most of the plants commonly referred to as succulents are different families, the care instructions will differ for them. The best way to learn what they need to thrive is to read the tag that comes in the plant. Succulents sold at shops that don’t specialize in plants will often not have proper labeling, so you may not even know the name or care instructions for that plant. In general though, look for:
Healthy-looking leaves with no odd discoloration, spots, or tears;
Plants that look “full” with leaves that start at the base of the plant and are closely spaced, particularly in Sempervivium and Echeveria that have a rosette-shaped pattern to the leaves.
No pests on the leaves…
…or soil. Yes, pull the plant gently out of the pot and inspect the soil. Look for signs of pests, disease, or tightly-wound roots that indicate that the plant is root-bound.
Watering
Just because these plants are drought-tolerant, doesn’t mean that they don’t need water. It simply means that they will be able to tolerate longer periods of drought. With regular watering and proper conditions succulents can be low maintenance and last for years.
When you first plant succulents water them until the soil is damp. Then, allow the soil to dry out before watering again. There is a big difference between soil drying out and drying up. Allowing the soil to feel dry to the touch is good practice, but if it has shrunk from the sides and become hard, you’ve waited too long. Rehydrate soil that has dried up by soaking the pot in a sink or tray with an inch of water for a few hours until the soil rehydrates.
Sunlight
Set succulents out in the sun for the best results. Again, keep in mind that all succulents do not come from the same family and some may require more or less sun than others. Plants that aren’t getting enough sun will get leggy. Plants that are getting too much sun will get scorched leaves.
Overwintering
If you are a lucky enough to live somewhere that winters are mild and succulents’ thrive all year, then lucky you! You will likely have plenty of huge succulents around to enjoy. For the rest of us, there is an important distinction to learn about succulents in colder climates: hardy succulents need a cold period at some point in the year to thrive, and tender succulents will die if left in the cold.
Hardy succulents like Sedum and Sempervivum are wonderful in cold-climate gardens, particularly in container. In the fall, move the containers under cover (but not indoors) and leave them alone for the winter. Next spring pull the pots out and set them in the sun. They will be back to their former glory in no time!
Tender succulents are best brought indoors for the winter. Try to find the sunniest location you can, water a bit more sparingly and remove any dead leaves as they dry up.
Tidying Up Succulents
These pretty plants can look like they have taken a beating over the winter, whether they braved it outside or inside. Hardy succulents will need the brown outer leaves removed and the soil refreshed. Tender succulents can probably use replanting as they likely got leggy searching for light indoors.
Succulents are a general name for any plant that has a swollen part that can hold excess water. This could occur in the leaves, stem, or even roots. Most commonly, people refer to succulents as plants with fleshy leaves, typically identified as types of Sedum, Sempervivium, Echeveria, Aeonium, and Crassula. Understanding that the word “succulents” doesn’t refer to a type of plant, but instead describes its characteristics, will help when understanding how to care for them.
Choosing Succulents
As most of the plants commonly referred to as succulents are different families, the care instructions will differ for them. The best way to learn what they need to thrive is to read the tag that comes in the plant. Succulents sold at shops that don’t specialize in plants will often not have proper labeling, so you may not even know the name or care instructions for that plant. In general though, look for:
Healthy-looking leaves with no odd discoloration, spots, or tears;
Plants that look “full” with leaves that start at the base of the plant and are closely spaced, particularly in Sempervivium and Echeveria that have a rosette-shaped pattern to the leaves.
No pests on the leaves…
…or soil. Yes, pull the plant gently out of the pot and inspect the soil. Look for signs of pests, disease, or tightly-wound roots that indicate that the plant is root-bound.
Watering
Just because these plants are drought-tolerant, doesn’t mean that they don’t need water. It simply means that they will be able to tolerate longer periods of drought. With regular watering and proper conditions succulents can be low maintenance and last for years.
When you first plant succulents water them until the soil is damp. Then, allow the soil to dry out before watering again. There is a big difference between soil drying out and drying up. Allowing the soil to feel dry to the touch is good practice, but if it has shrunk from the sides and become hard, you’ve waited too long. Rehydrate soil that has dried up by soaking the pot in a sink or tray with an inch of water for a few hours until the soil rehydrates.
Sunlight
Set succulents out in the sun for the best results. Again, keep in mind that all succulents do not come from the same family and some may require more or less sun than others. Plants that aren’t getting enough sun will get leggy. Plants that are getting too much sun will get scorched leaves.
Overwintering
If you are a lucky enough to live somewhere that winters are mild and succulents’ thrive all year, then lucky you! You will likely have plenty of huge succulents around to enjoy. For the rest of us, there is an important distinction to learn about succulents in colder climates: hardy succulents need a cold period at some point in the year to thrive, and tender succulents will die if left in the cold.
Hardy succulents like Sedum and Sempervivum are wonderful in cold-climate gardens, particularly in container. In the fall, move the containers under cover (but not indoors) and leave them alone for the winter. Next spring pull the pots out and set them in the sun. They will be back to their former glory in no time!
Tender succulents are best brought indoors for the winter. Try to find the sunniest location you can, water a bit more sparingly and remove any dead leaves as they dry up.
Tidying Up Succulents
These pretty plants can look like they have taken a beating over the winter, whether they braved it outside or inside. Hardy succulents will need the brown outer leaves removed and the soil refreshed. Tender succulents can probably use replanting as they likely got leggy searching for light indoors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Desert cacti are a challenge to get to bloom indoors, simply because we can’t provide as much light as a sun-drenched desert. In addition to light, two other important factors for blooming are:
Age: Some plants take years to mature. The best way to check this is to buy one that’s already blooming.
Dormancy: Many desert cacti bloom in response to a cool, dry, dormant period. During the winter, you should reduce watering to only about once a month—just enough to keep the plant from shriveling up—and move your cactus to a cool spot, around 50°F (10°C), that has plenty of sunlight.
Also, keep in mind these tips for year-round cactus care:
Indoor cacti do best in a sunroom or south-facing windowsill. They’ll receive the most sunlight, and the air around windows is generally cooler in winter than the interior of a room.
During the growing season, your cactus needs maximum light and heat. Put your plant in direct sunlight, and turn it occasionally for even light exposure.
It will also need more water during the growing season. Allow the top 2 inch (5 cm) of soil to dry out before watering the plant thoroughly until it runs out the bottom (empty the drainage tray). Imagine a sudden desert rainstorm that soon dries in the sun, so never leave your plant in soggy soil.
Fertilize cacti only in the spring and early summer, using a cactus-specific fertilizer or a highly diluted fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium. Overfeeding will not make your cactus bloom!
Repot your cactus using a potting mix designed for cacti and succulents. Don’t water your cactus for a week after repotting.
Age: Some plants take years to mature. The best way to check this is to buy one that’s already blooming.
Dormancy: Many desert cacti bloom in response to a cool, dry, dormant period. During the winter, you should reduce watering to only about once a month—just enough to keep the plant from shriveling up—and move your cactus to a cool spot, around 50°F (10°C), that has plenty of sunlight.
Also, keep in mind these tips for year-round cactus care:
Indoor cacti do best in a sunroom or south-facing windowsill. They’ll receive the most sunlight, and the air around windows is generally cooler in winter than the interior of a room.
During the growing season, your cactus needs maximum light and heat. Put your plant in direct sunlight, and turn it occasionally for even light exposure.
It will also need more water during the growing season. Allow the top 2 inch (5 cm) of soil to dry out before watering the plant thoroughly until it runs out the bottom (empty the drainage tray). Imagine a sudden desert rainstorm that soon dries in the sun, so never leave your plant in soggy soil.
Fertilize cacti only in the spring and early summer, using a cactus-specific fertilizer or a highly diluted fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium. Overfeeding will not make your cactus bloom!
Repot your cactus using a potting mix designed for cacti and succulents. Don’t water your cactus for a week after repotting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
The genus Matucana belongs to the family of Cactaceae and is a native of Peru, particularly of the Andean city of Matucana, from which it takes its name. The genus includes about 20 species currently spread throughout South America. The plants grow in the highlands of the Andes at above 2500 m of altitude. Sturdy, robust, the Matucana are quite popular among collectors for its ease of cultivation.
Matucana is characterized by bright green plants, sized small and medium, both globular and cylindrical, with numerous ribs segmented into dense spines and tubercles. The bloom is apical and flowers, usually appearing in late spring or summer, are elongated and tubular. They hatch at night and lasts from 2 to 4 days, offering a wide variety of colors, from white to red, yellow and bright orange.
Growing Conditions and General Care
All species are sensitive to moisture. Watering should therefore be limited to the growing season and should be made only when the substrate is completely dry. It must be suspended during the winter. Since they tend to lose their roots in cold and wet, these plants must be kept warm even in winter. A temperature not under 50°F (10°C) is suitable. Some species, for natural adaptation, can resist at temperatures below 32°F (0°C).
If the plants are in the vegetative stage and optimal environmental conditions (a low moisture content with substantial temperature swing between day and night is appreciated), the growth is quite fast and you can get blooms already after 2-3 years after birth.
Matucana must be grown in a very porous and draining soil. It can be composed largely by sand, lapilli and gravel. To encourage the development of a dense network of spine, the quality of the nutrients in the substrate is very important. The soil must be rich in potassium, poor in nitrogen. Since the roots are very delicate and subject to rot, the soil should be kept as dry as possible: do not forget that in their natural environment these plants grow in steep and inaccessible places.
Matucana like dry, fresh and light air. A direct exposure to sunlight is appropriated, but too high temperatures (above 90°F/32°C), very different from those of their original environment, may damage them. In these cases it is best to filter the sun’s rays or prefer a bright area anyway, but at least partially shaded.
Propagation
Propagation is easy by seed, sowing should preferably be done in the spring.
Matucana is characterized by bright green plants, sized small and medium, both globular and cylindrical, with numerous ribs segmented into dense spines and tubercles. The bloom is apical and flowers, usually appearing in late spring or summer, are elongated and tubular. They hatch at night and lasts from 2 to 4 days, offering a wide variety of colors, from white to red, yellow and bright orange.
Growing Conditions and General Care
All species are sensitive to moisture. Watering should therefore be limited to the growing season and should be made only when the substrate is completely dry. It must be suspended during the winter. Since they tend to lose their roots in cold and wet, these plants must be kept warm even in winter. A temperature not under 50°F (10°C) is suitable. Some species, for natural adaptation, can resist at temperatures below 32°F (0°C).
If the plants are in the vegetative stage and optimal environmental conditions (a low moisture content with substantial temperature swing between day and night is appreciated), the growth is quite fast and you can get blooms already after 2-3 years after birth.
Matucana must be grown in a very porous and draining soil. It can be composed largely by sand, lapilli and gravel. To encourage the development of a dense network of spine, the quality of the nutrients in the substrate is very important. The soil must be rich in potassium, poor in nitrogen. Since the roots are very delicate and subject to rot, the soil should be kept as dry as possible: do not forget that in their natural environment these plants grow in steep and inaccessible places.
Matucana like dry, fresh and light air. A direct exposure to sunlight is appropriated, but too high temperatures (above 90°F/32°C), very different from those of their original environment, may damage them. In these cases it is best to filter the sun’s rays or prefer a bright area anyway, but at least partially shaded.
Propagation
Propagation is easy by seed, sowing should preferably be done in the spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Othonna is a genus of more than 100 African plants in the Sunflower family (Asteraceae). These are evergreen or deciduous geophytes, dwarf succulents or shrubs concentrated in the Western Cape Province of South Africa and also in southern Namibia. A few species occur in summer rainfall parts of southern Africa. The genus is closely allied to Senecio and can be distinguished principally by details of the involucre.
The form or habit of Othonnas is very diverse. Leaf diversity is also notable in this genus. A few species possess highly succulent leaves (Othonna capensis, Othonna sedifolia) but most have bifacial leaves that are only slightly succulent. Size and shape is variable, with most species having leaves in the 0.4 to 4 inches (1 to 10 cm) long range.
The bright yellow (occasionally white or purple) flowers are the most distinguishing characteristic of the genus and the flowering times differ from different species. Some flower just before beginning their summer rest, and others flower after beginning growth in the fall.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Othonna plants have a variable range of habitats, some grow in a very hot, arid regions, but they avoid the intense desiccating rays of the north and west sun, growing between rocks in southern slopes. A few species, by contrary, grow in strong direct sunlight in arid situations that become very hot and dry as well as saturated for a few weeks during their growing period. All Othonnas grow in very open situations with plenty of free air circulation all around.
Othonnas fleshy leaves and daisy-like flowers make them excellent in a desert or rock garden (where hardy), or indoors as houseplants or greenhouse specimens.
Othonnas tend to be fairly hardy but some of them as Othonna cacalioides can be extremely difficult in cultivation if you do not give them the right conditions: space to develop radicular system, better to keep them in flat pots. In summer protect plants from direct sunlight. In growing season they like to be moist, fresh and plenty light. They don’t like temperatures below 50°F (10°C).
In the warmer months Othonnas go into their dormancy period, stop watering, place them in a shaded, cooler area, away from getting direct sunlight and with good air circulation, relatively dry. In the fall, sometime around early to mid October when nights cool down, the plants may start growing on their own, but a good soaking will help them to leaf out.
A typical succulent soil mix should be suitable for growing Othonnas but additional drainage material would be recommended.
Propagation
Start seed in spring at 64 to 70°F (18 to 21°C). Plants can also be propagated from basal or semi-ripe cuttings in late summer using bottom heat.
The form or habit of Othonnas is very diverse. Leaf diversity is also notable in this genus. A few species possess highly succulent leaves (Othonna capensis, Othonna sedifolia) but most have bifacial leaves that are only slightly succulent. Size and shape is variable, with most species having leaves in the 0.4 to 4 inches (1 to 10 cm) long range.
The bright yellow (occasionally white or purple) flowers are the most distinguishing characteristic of the genus and the flowering times differ from different species. Some flower just before beginning their summer rest, and others flower after beginning growth in the fall.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Othonna plants have a variable range of habitats, some grow in a very hot, arid regions, but they avoid the intense desiccating rays of the north and west sun, growing between rocks in southern slopes. A few species, by contrary, grow in strong direct sunlight in arid situations that become very hot and dry as well as saturated for a few weeks during their growing period. All Othonnas grow in very open situations with plenty of free air circulation all around.
Othonnas fleshy leaves and daisy-like flowers make them excellent in a desert or rock garden (where hardy), or indoors as houseplants or greenhouse specimens.
Othonnas tend to be fairly hardy but some of them as Othonna cacalioides can be extremely difficult in cultivation if you do not give them the right conditions: space to develop radicular system, better to keep them in flat pots. In summer protect plants from direct sunlight. In growing season they like to be moist, fresh and plenty light. They don’t like temperatures below 50°F (10°C).
In the warmer months Othonnas go into their dormancy period, stop watering, place them in a shaded, cooler area, away from getting direct sunlight and with good air circulation, relatively dry. In the fall, sometime around early to mid October when nights cool down, the plants may start growing on their own, but a good soaking will help them to leaf out.
A typical succulent soil mix should be suitable for growing Othonnas but additional drainage material would be recommended.
Propagation
Start seed in spring at 64 to 70°F (18 to 21°C). Plants can also be propagated from basal or semi-ripe cuttings in late summer using bottom heat.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Adenia is a genus of flowering plants in the Passion-flower family (Passifloraceae). It is distributed in the Old World tropics and subtropics. The centers of diversity are in Madagascar, eastern and western tropical Africa, and Southeast Asia. The genus name comes from “aden”, reported as the Arabic name for the plant by Peter Forsskål, the author of the genus.
Adenias have some very interesting characteristics. They are excellent members of the caudiciform succulents and some species can attain a base of more than 6.6 feet (2 m) wide. Most Adenia plants are vine growers and form a large canopy of heart shaped leaves that shade the base. Most Adenias have green trunks and branches. Some species have overlaid reds, browns, or purples that add to the beauty of the caudex. Adenias typically flower in the spring before the leaves appear.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Adenia plants are summer growers and can be watered and fed regularly if planted in fast draining soil. Let the soil dry between watering if you are in a humid climate.
Most of your growth will be during the warm season and the plant will have the most leaves. The plant will also grow best with the leaves exposed to bright light, but the caudex shaded.
During the cool months protect the plant from frost to keep it alive. The plant normally rests during this period and water should be kept to a minimum. However, you can keep the plant active, if you can keep it above 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Their sap is poisonous, and they should be handled with caution, particularly when pruning.
Propagation
Most cuttings do not produce a caudex so it is best to propagate by seeds. Adenias are either male or female so one of each is required to produce seeds.
Adenias have some very interesting characteristics. They are excellent members of the caudiciform succulents and some species can attain a base of more than 6.6 feet (2 m) wide. Most Adenia plants are vine growers and form a large canopy of heart shaped leaves that shade the base. Most Adenias have green trunks and branches. Some species have overlaid reds, browns, or purples that add to the beauty of the caudex. Adenias typically flower in the spring before the leaves appear.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Adenia plants are summer growers and can be watered and fed regularly if planted in fast draining soil. Let the soil dry between watering if you are in a humid climate.
Most of your growth will be during the warm season and the plant will have the most leaves. The plant will also grow best with the leaves exposed to bright light, but the caudex shaded.
During the cool months protect the plant from frost to keep it alive. The plant normally rests during this period and water should be kept to a minimum. However, you can keep the plant active, if you can keep it above 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Their sap is poisonous, and they should be handled with caution, particularly when pruning.
Propagation
Most cuttings do not produce a caudex so it is best to propagate by seeds. Adenias are either male or female so one of each is required to produce seeds.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Bagworms, Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis, produce conspicuous spindle-shaped cocoons on trees and shrubs throughout the United States. Bagworms feed on over 128 plant species. The most commonly attacked plants are arborvitae, red cedar, and other juniper species. They will also feed on fir, maple, juneberry, buckeye, persimmon, ginkgo, honeylocust, larch, sweet gum, spruce, pine, sycamore, poplar, oak, locust, willow, and hemlock.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The principle harm done by the insect is the destruction of foliage by the caterpillars. Plants usually are partially defoliated, weakened, and rendered unsightly. Complete defoliation can occur. The most notable sign of bagworm infestation is the presence of protective bags attached to a branch. The bags incorporate bits of twigs and leaves from the host plant. They are approximately 1 to 2 inches long and resemble Christmas tree ornaments hanging from the limbs.
Life Cycle
The adult female bagworm does not look like a moth and never leaves her bag. She is maggot-like in appearance, soft-bodied, and yellowish-white. A mated female lays between 500 and 1000 eggs within the bag, after which she dies. The eggs remain inside the bag throughout the winter until they hatch the following spring. There is one generation a year.
From late May to mid-June, bagworm larvae (caterpillars) begin emerging from the bags. Almost immediately after emerging, a larva starts to produce its own protective bag. The bag is constructed such that the larva's head and legs are free. This construction allows the larvae to move about the plant as it feeds on the foliage. As the larva grows, it increases the size of its bag. The full-grown larvae are about one inch long.
When a host plant becomes defoliated, the larvae will crawl off it with their bags and search for a new plant to feed upon. In mid-August, the mature larvae stop feeding and attach their bags to a twig. They close up the bag and pupate. By mid-September, the bagworm has completed its development, and adult males begin emerging from their bags. The male moth has a black, furry body and feathery antennae. The wings are almost transparent and have a span of about one inch.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Handpick the bags. The most economical method of controlling bagworms is to handpick the bags and destroy them. Some birds and insect predators feed on larvae, so light infestations on large, healthy plants are usually controlled by natural means. On large plants, monitor infestations before resorting to chemical sprays. If the problem doesn't get worse, spraying is not required.
2. Use biological controls. In spring, as soon as eggs hatch and the young emerge, spray with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). Bt is a bacterium that causes the larvae to become sick, stop feeding, and later die. In St. Louis, the eggs hatch in late May to mid-June, or about the time the cigar tree, Catalpa speciosa, is in full bloom.
3. Use chemical controls. Because bagworms form protective bags very early, contact insecticides, while useful, are less effective than stomach poisons. For best control, spray when insects are young. Chemical controls become less effective as the bagworm matures. Chemical controls include acephate (Orthene), cyfluthrin and spinosad.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The principle harm done by the insect is the destruction of foliage by the caterpillars. Plants usually are partially defoliated, weakened, and rendered unsightly. Complete defoliation can occur. The most notable sign of bagworm infestation is the presence of protective bags attached to a branch. The bags incorporate bits of twigs and leaves from the host plant. They are approximately 1 to 2 inches long and resemble Christmas tree ornaments hanging from the limbs.
Life Cycle
The adult female bagworm does not look like a moth and never leaves her bag. She is maggot-like in appearance, soft-bodied, and yellowish-white. A mated female lays between 500 and 1000 eggs within the bag, after which she dies. The eggs remain inside the bag throughout the winter until they hatch the following spring. There is one generation a year.
From late May to mid-June, bagworm larvae (caterpillars) begin emerging from the bags. Almost immediately after emerging, a larva starts to produce its own protective bag. The bag is constructed such that the larva's head and legs are free. This construction allows the larvae to move about the plant as it feeds on the foliage. As the larva grows, it increases the size of its bag. The full-grown larvae are about one inch long.
When a host plant becomes defoliated, the larvae will crawl off it with their bags and search for a new plant to feed upon. In mid-August, the mature larvae stop feeding and attach their bags to a twig. They close up the bag and pupate. By mid-September, the bagworm has completed its development, and adult males begin emerging from their bags. The male moth has a black, furry body and feathery antennae. The wings are almost transparent and have a span of about one inch.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Handpick the bags. The most economical method of controlling bagworms is to handpick the bags and destroy them. Some birds and insect predators feed on larvae, so light infestations on large, healthy plants are usually controlled by natural means. On large plants, monitor infestations before resorting to chemical sprays. If the problem doesn't get worse, spraying is not required.
2. Use biological controls. In spring, as soon as eggs hatch and the young emerge, spray with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). Bt is a bacterium that causes the larvae to become sick, stop feeding, and later die. In St. Louis, the eggs hatch in late May to mid-June, or about the time the cigar tree, Catalpa speciosa, is in full bloom.
3. Use chemical controls. Because bagworms form protective bags very early, contact insecticides, while useful, are less effective than stomach poisons. For best control, spray when insects are young. Chemical controls become less effective as the bagworm matures. Chemical controls include acephate (Orthene), cyfluthrin and spinosad.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Injury due to salt is most common on landscape plants growing adjacent to highways, streets, sidewalks, and driveways that are regularly salted during the winter for ice control. Most of the salt used for deicing purposes is sodium chloride, ordinary rock salt or table salt. On highways, the major problem to plants is caused by salt spray kicked up by fast moving traffic on wet, salted roads. The salt spray is deposited on adjacent plants causing dehydration of evergreen leaves. In the city, the major problem is salt runoff washing into the soil. Salt in the soil may be absorbed by the roots and cause direct toxic effects.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Salt spray causes bud death and twig dieback. Subsequent shoot growth at the branch base produces clusters of twigs known as "witches' brooms." Symptoms typically become evident in the spring. In evergreens and conifers, salt spray causes leaf browning or yellowing, needle tip flecking, and twig dieback. Salt in the soil is slower acting and may not affect plants for several years. Symptoms include an initial blue green cast to the foliage, marginal leaf burn or needle tip burn, reduction in leaf, flower and fruit size, premature fall coloration and defoliation, stunting, and a general lack of vigor. The symptoms often become evident in late summer or during periods of hot dry weather.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Reduce salt use. The most important method of preventing salt injury to plants is reducing the amount of salt used for deicing. Pure salt should never be applied. Salt should always be mixed with an abrasive such as sand, cinders, or ash. This combines the melting power of the salt with the grittiness of the abrasive so less total salt is needed. Commercial deicing products containing calcium chloride may be used instead of rock salt. These products will not damage the soil but will still injure plants, so they too should be mixed with abrasives and applied with the same precautions.
2. Apply salt carefully. Application should be limited to high risk locations such as high speed roads, intersections, hills, steps, and walkways. Avoid spilling or applying in heaps.
3. Leach salted soils. If salt has already entered the soil, water these areas heavily in the spring to help leach the salt out of the soil. This method, however, is only effective on well-drained soils. It is not effective on fine textured, compacted soils where water does not drain readily.
4. Protect plants. Plants may be protected from salt spray by placing materials such as plastic, burlap, plywood, or window screen on or in front of them. This provides a physical barrier that prevents salt spray from contacting the plant.
5. Avoid planting in drainageways or in areas where runoff collects. Salt spray damage can be avoided by planting trees and shrubs away from the spray drift zone, at least 50 feet from a highway or further if downwind. Plants vary in their sensitivity to salt. It should be emphasized that even tolerant plants are not immune to injury.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Salt spray causes bud death and twig dieback. Subsequent shoot growth at the branch base produces clusters of twigs known as "witches' brooms." Symptoms typically become evident in the spring. In evergreens and conifers, salt spray causes leaf browning or yellowing, needle tip flecking, and twig dieback. Salt in the soil is slower acting and may not affect plants for several years. Symptoms include an initial blue green cast to the foliage, marginal leaf burn or needle tip burn, reduction in leaf, flower and fruit size, premature fall coloration and defoliation, stunting, and a general lack of vigor. The symptoms often become evident in late summer or during periods of hot dry weather.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Reduce salt use. The most important method of preventing salt injury to plants is reducing the amount of salt used for deicing. Pure salt should never be applied. Salt should always be mixed with an abrasive such as sand, cinders, or ash. This combines the melting power of the salt with the grittiness of the abrasive so less total salt is needed. Commercial deicing products containing calcium chloride may be used instead of rock salt. These products will not damage the soil but will still injure plants, so they too should be mixed with abrasives and applied with the same precautions.
2. Apply salt carefully. Application should be limited to high risk locations such as high speed roads, intersections, hills, steps, and walkways. Avoid spilling or applying in heaps.
3. Leach salted soils. If salt has already entered the soil, water these areas heavily in the spring to help leach the salt out of the soil. This method, however, is only effective on well-drained soils. It is not effective on fine textured, compacted soils where water does not drain readily.
4. Protect plants. Plants may be protected from salt spray by placing materials such as plastic, burlap, plywood, or window screen on or in front of them. This provides a physical barrier that prevents salt spray from contacting the plant.
5. Avoid planting in drainageways or in areas where runoff collects. Salt spray damage can be avoided by planting trees and shrubs away from the spray drift zone, at least 50 feet from a highway or further if downwind. Plants vary in their sensitivity to salt. It should be emphasized that even tolerant plants are not immune to injury.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Ozone is the most damaging air pollutant to plants. The action of sunlight (ultraviolet radiation) on molecular oxygen and oxides of nitrogen spontaneously generates ozone. The organic compounds in automobile exhaust enhance ozone accumulation. Ozone can move across great distances to cause damage to plants far from its origin and is therefore classified as a non-pointsource pollutant.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The extent of damage depends on the concentration of ozone, the duration of exposure, and plant sensitivity. Acute damage to deciduous trees causes marginal leaf burn and dot-like, irregular-shaped lesions or spots that may be tan, white, or dark brown. Symptoms may spread over entire leaves. Another common symptom is bleaching of the upper leaf surface. Broad-leaved trees often exhibit these symptoms of stippling or red-purple or necrotic flecks on the upper leaf surface only.
Acute damage to conifers causes browning at the same point on all needles in a bundle (needle cluster). Other symptoms include chlorotic (yellow) mottling or necrotic (brown to black) banding, tip burn, dwarfing, and tufted appearance due to early defoliation of older needles. Damage from ozone can be confused with other problems and, if suspected, a more detailed reference material (such as Diseases of Trees & Shrubs by Sinclair, Lyon, & Anderson) should be consulted.
Life Cycle
Ozone builds up to phytotoxic levels in the atmosphere during warm, sunny weather when pollutants accumulate in stagnant air. Accumulation often occurs during atmospheric inversions in valleys and basins bounded by mountains.
Ozone may cause damage to plants far from the source of its precursors as masses of polluted air move overland. Ozone from natural sources (carried from the stratosphere or generated during electrical storms) alone is inconsequential for plant health, but may be added to that generated by humans.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Maintain plant vigor. Plants that are in good health resist all type of injury better than weakened plants. Water during drought periods. Fertilize following a soil test report. Soil should be porous, well-draining, and not compacted.
2. Select plants. Select plants tolerant of air pollutants.
3. Reduce emissions. Reduce emissions from the source when possible.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The extent of damage depends on the concentration of ozone, the duration of exposure, and plant sensitivity. Acute damage to deciduous trees causes marginal leaf burn and dot-like, irregular-shaped lesions or spots that may be tan, white, or dark brown. Symptoms may spread over entire leaves. Another common symptom is bleaching of the upper leaf surface. Broad-leaved trees often exhibit these symptoms of stippling or red-purple or necrotic flecks on the upper leaf surface only.
Acute damage to conifers causes browning at the same point on all needles in a bundle (needle cluster). Other symptoms include chlorotic (yellow) mottling or necrotic (brown to black) banding, tip burn, dwarfing, and tufted appearance due to early defoliation of older needles. Damage from ozone can be confused with other problems and, if suspected, a more detailed reference material (such as Diseases of Trees & Shrubs by Sinclair, Lyon, & Anderson) should be consulted.
Life Cycle
Ozone builds up to phytotoxic levels in the atmosphere during warm, sunny weather when pollutants accumulate in stagnant air. Accumulation often occurs during atmospheric inversions in valleys and basins bounded by mountains.
Ozone may cause damage to plants far from the source of its precursors as masses of polluted air move overland. Ozone from natural sources (carried from the stratosphere or generated during electrical storms) alone is inconsequential for plant health, but may be added to that generated by humans.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Maintain plant vigor. Plants that are in good health resist all type of injury better than weakened plants. Water during drought periods. Fertilize following a soil test report. Soil should be porous, well-draining, and not compacted.
2. Select plants. Select plants tolerant of air pollutants.
3. Reduce emissions. Reduce emissions from the source when possible.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Astroloba is a genus of flowering plants in the family Asphodelaceae, native to the Cape Province of South Africa. The name of the genus is derived from the Greek words “astros” (star), and “lobos” (lobe), and refers to the starlike shape of the petals, which appear at the end of the tube-like flowers.
They are very closely related to the Haworthia genus, but are distinguished by their flowers being regular and not double-tipped. The flowers are small and white, and appear clustered on slender racemes. Astrolobas bear very regular, sharp, triangular, succulent leaves along their symmetrical columnar stems. They are slow growing, multi-stemmed, and their longer stems tend to sprawl in their rocky natural habitat.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Astroloba plants are increasingly popular as succulent ornamental, due to the extraordinary beauty of their leaf structure. Some have intricate patterns of lines, margins, spots and raised tubercles on their leaves. Nearly all of them display a crystal-like regularity in their leaf arrangement. This is not always apparent in wild plants, which are usually disfigured by their harsh habitat.
In cultivation, Astrolobas are at their best when provided with some protection from full sun. In a semi-shade environment, with extremely well-drained soil and gentle conditions, Astrolobas can become remarkably beautiful and ornate.
Unfortunately, when conditions are not ideal, occasional random leaves can die, shrivel up and go brown, all along its stem. This is unfortunate because, as explained, much of the beauty of the plants comes from the intricate, crystalline pattern of their leaves. However this disfigurement can be avoided by keeping the plants in optimal, fertile conditions – growing steadily and sheltered from stress.
Propagation
All Astrolobas can be propagated by seed, by cuttings/offsets, and by division of clumps. Cuttings or offsets should be dried for several days to weeks, in a cool, shady environment, before being planted in well-drained sand. Seeds should be collected and sown on well-drained soil. It is optional to cover them with a very thin, fine layer of sand. Keep moist until they germinate, and continue to water regularly until they are relatively large and strong. Keep in a bright spot, but out of direct sunlight.
Hybrids can be made between all the Astroloba species (except for A. rubriflora, which has evolved a highly distinct chemistry in its flowers). Astrolobas can also be hybridized with other related genera, such as Tulista, Gasteria and Aloe.
They are very closely related to the Haworthia genus, but are distinguished by their flowers being regular and not double-tipped. The flowers are small and white, and appear clustered on slender racemes. Astrolobas bear very regular, sharp, triangular, succulent leaves along their symmetrical columnar stems. They are slow growing, multi-stemmed, and their longer stems tend to sprawl in their rocky natural habitat.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Astroloba plants are increasingly popular as succulent ornamental, due to the extraordinary beauty of their leaf structure. Some have intricate patterns of lines, margins, spots and raised tubercles on their leaves. Nearly all of them display a crystal-like regularity in their leaf arrangement. This is not always apparent in wild plants, which are usually disfigured by their harsh habitat.
In cultivation, Astrolobas are at their best when provided with some protection from full sun. In a semi-shade environment, with extremely well-drained soil and gentle conditions, Astrolobas can become remarkably beautiful and ornate.
Unfortunately, when conditions are not ideal, occasional random leaves can die, shrivel up and go brown, all along its stem. This is unfortunate because, as explained, much of the beauty of the plants comes from the intricate, crystalline pattern of their leaves. However this disfigurement can be avoided by keeping the plants in optimal, fertile conditions – growing steadily and sheltered from stress.
Propagation
All Astrolobas can be propagated by seed, by cuttings/offsets, and by division of clumps. Cuttings or offsets should be dried for several days to weeks, in a cool, shady environment, before being planted in well-drained sand. Seeds should be collected and sown on well-drained soil. It is optional to cover them with a very thin, fine layer of sand. Keep moist until they germinate, and continue to water regularly until they are relatively large and strong. Keep in a bright spot, but out of direct sunlight.
Hybrids can be made between all the Astroloba species (except for A. rubriflora, which has evolved a highly distinct chemistry in its flowers). Astrolobas can also be hybridized with other related genera, such as Tulista, Gasteria and Aloe.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Anacampseros is a genus consisting of a several species of small perennial succulent plants native to South Africa. The botanical name is an ancient one for herbs supposed to restore lost love. All form basal rosettes of smooth or hairy leaves in dense mats and develop a small caudex with age. White filamentous hairs are present along the stems. The wheel-shaped flowers vary from white to purple. The plants are self-fertile and produce seeds in a cup of upright filaments. They are dormant in winter.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Anacampseros grow well in partial sun with bright light enhancing the leaf colors and keeping them compact. They require a gritty free-draining soil with added organic material and low to moderate watering. The beautiful caudiciform species are prone to rot and should be watered very sparingly. Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer during the growing season diluted to one-fourth potency and mix into the watering can for application. Anacampseros is an excellent plant for container growing. It always looks good and stays small. It look fine in a cold greenhouse and frame. It do well outdoors in raised beds and terraces as well.
Anacampseros crinita
Anacampseros may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation. Nonetheless, watch carefully for any significant decline in health. This may signal a pest problem that should be dealt with quickly in order to prevent scarring, stunting and even death.
Repotting
Repot Anacampseros once a year in order to evaluate the health of the plant and provide a larger growing space being careful not to damage the sensitive roots.
Propagation
Anacampseros are easy to propagate either through stem cuttings or seed.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Anacampseros grow well in partial sun with bright light enhancing the leaf colors and keeping them compact. They require a gritty free-draining soil with added organic material and low to moderate watering. The beautiful caudiciform species are prone to rot and should be watered very sparingly. Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer during the growing season diluted to one-fourth potency and mix into the watering can for application. Anacampseros is an excellent plant for container growing. It always looks good and stays small. It look fine in a cold greenhouse and frame. It do well outdoors in raised beds and terraces as well.
Anacampseros crinita
Anacampseros may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation. Nonetheless, watch carefully for any significant decline in health. This may signal a pest problem that should be dealt with quickly in order to prevent scarring, stunting and even death.
Repotting
Repot Anacampseros once a year in order to evaluate the health of the plant and provide a larger growing space being careful not to damage the sensitive roots.
Propagation
Anacampseros are easy to propagate either through stem cuttings or seed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
If you’re looking to decorate your home or office with gorgeous yet low maintenance plants, succulents may be the best choice for you. Their resilient nature often makes them the best choice for people just beginning to tap into their green thumb or those who have little time to tend to their plants. While it’s true that succulents require less watering, unless you are prepared to learn how to take care of these types of plants properly, you could wind up accidently killing them. So let’s dig into the basics to jump start your future horticulture hobby.
1. Watering
Watering is arguably the most important aspect to focus on when growing succulents because it is one of the fastest ways to accidently kill them.
Succulents are prone to root rot, which is caused by damp roots. For this reason, succulents’ soil should only be soaked temporarily when you water them, and watering is only necessary when the soil is completely dry. This is important to note because other plants tend to require water more often and sometimes even require their soil to be moist constantly. Mixing up the requirements could kill your succulents.
2. Light
Succulents need a lot of sunlight each day, with the minimum recommendation being three hours of direct sunlight.
When indoors, find the window with the most sunlight and put your succulents there in order to promote healthy growth. The key is to keep these plants out of the shade, whether they’re inside or outside, unless you are in an extremely hot climate. Succulents in harsher, hotter conditions benefit from shade during peak sun hours, which can be counterintuitive because of the stereotypes developed by the portrayal of cactuses (most of which are succulents) in Western films you may have seen. Succulents are actually very durable and are able to survive in a variety of temperatures due to their resilient nature. They can survive in temperatures as low as 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) overnight!
3. Soil
The ability of succulents to keep hydrated is one trait most professional athletes should revere. This means that they prefer soil that drains easily. When planting succulents outside, make sure you plant them in areas where the ground doesn’t tend to stay moist or hold water, as this type of location could drown your succulents and cause root rot. If you’re planning on keeping your plants in pots, ensure that there are plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the pots before adding soil, especially if you choose to keep the plants inside. This will help prevent overwatering.
Types of soil that are best for succulents consist of gravel, volcanic rock, cactus soil, and other similar soils. There are many succulent-specific soil mixes available, too.
As with all gardening, watching your plants and noticing changes, like drooping leaves, can help you understand what each plant needs. Every plant is different, and despite general guidelines for care, they require individual attention to make sure they grow into healthy, flourishing succulents.
1. Watering
Watering is arguably the most important aspect to focus on when growing succulents because it is one of the fastest ways to accidently kill them.
Succulents are prone to root rot, which is caused by damp roots. For this reason, succulents’ soil should only be soaked temporarily when you water them, and watering is only necessary when the soil is completely dry. This is important to note because other plants tend to require water more often and sometimes even require their soil to be moist constantly. Mixing up the requirements could kill your succulents.
2. Light
Succulents need a lot of sunlight each day, with the minimum recommendation being three hours of direct sunlight.
When indoors, find the window with the most sunlight and put your succulents there in order to promote healthy growth. The key is to keep these plants out of the shade, whether they’re inside or outside, unless you are in an extremely hot climate. Succulents in harsher, hotter conditions benefit from shade during peak sun hours, which can be counterintuitive because of the stereotypes developed by the portrayal of cactuses (most of which are succulents) in Western films you may have seen. Succulents are actually very durable and are able to survive in a variety of temperatures due to their resilient nature. They can survive in temperatures as low as 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) overnight!
3. Soil
The ability of succulents to keep hydrated is one trait most professional athletes should revere. This means that they prefer soil that drains easily. When planting succulents outside, make sure you plant them in areas where the ground doesn’t tend to stay moist or hold water, as this type of location could drown your succulents and cause root rot. If you’re planning on keeping your plants in pots, ensure that there are plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the pots before adding soil, especially if you choose to keep the plants inside. This will help prevent overwatering.
Types of soil that are best for succulents consist of gravel, volcanic rock, cactus soil, and other similar soils. There are many succulent-specific soil mixes available, too.
As with all gardening, watching your plants and noticing changes, like drooping leaves, can help you understand what each plant needs. Every plant is different, and despite general guidelines for care, they require individual attention to make sure they grow into healthy, flourishing succulents.
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Dummer. ゛☀：😁😁😁beautiful
