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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Looking for a drought tolerant but lovely flower to fill in a troublesome dry area in your garden? You may want to try planting Delosperma (Ice Plants). Ice Plant flowers add a bright splash of color to the drier parts of your garden and ice plant care is easy. Keep reading to learn more about these pretty plants and how to grow an Ice Plant in your garden.
Delosperma is a succulent, perennial ground cover with daisy-like flowers. Delosperma is not called an Ice Plant because it is cold hardy, but rather because the flowers and leaves seem to shimmer as though covered in frost or ice crystals. The plants grow to be about 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) tall and 2 to 4 feet (5 to 10 cm) wide.
Growing Conditions
Delosperma flowers grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-9 and will bloom for most of the summer and fall. Their foliage is mostly evergreen and, because of this, they make a great year-round ground cover. While the plant is evergreen, it will often have some dieback of foliage in the winter.
Delospermas prefer full sun but can tolerate some light shade in the garden. Because Delosperma are succulents, they do not tolerate wet soil, though they do well in poor soils. In fact, wet soil, especially during the winter months, is likely to kill the plants. In areas where the soil stays consistently dry, this plant can become invasive, so it is best to take this into consideration when planting it.
Propagating
The Ice Plant can be propagated by division, cuttings or seeds. If propagating by division, it is best to divide the plants in the spring. Cuttings can be taken anytime in the spring, summer or fall. When grown by seeds, scatter the seeds on the surface of the soil and do not cover them, as they need light to germinate.
General Care
Once they are established, Delospermas require little maintenance. As succulents, they need very little watering and thrive in drought-like conditions. In addition, these plants need little to no fertilizing. Simply plant your Ice Plant flowers and watch them grow!
Delosperma is a succulent, perennial ground cover with daisy-like flowers. Delosperma is not called an Ice Plant because it is cold hardy, but rather because the flowers and leaves seem to shimmer as though covered in frost or ice crystals. The plants grow to be about 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) tall and 2 to 4 feet (5 to 10 cm) wide.
Growing Conditions
Delosperma flowers grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-9 and will bloom for most of the summer and fall. Their foliage is mostly evergreen and, because of this, they make a great year-round ground cover. While the plant is evergreen, it will often have some dieback of foliage in the winter.
Delospermas prefer full sun but can tolerate some light shade in the garden. Because Delosperma are succulents, they do not tolerate wet soil, though they do well in poor soils. In fact, wet soil, especially during the winter months, is likely to kill the plants. In areas where the soil stays consistently dry, this plant can become invasive, so it is best to take this into consideration when planting it.
Propagating
The Ice Plant can be propagated by division, cuttings or seeds. If propagating by division, it is best to divide the plants in the spring. Cuttings can be taken anytime in the spring, summer or fall. When grown by seeds, scatter the seeds on the surface of the soil and do not cover them, as they need light to germinate.
General Care
Once they are established, Delospermas require little maintenance. As succulents, they need very little watering and thrive in drought-like conditions. In addition, these plants need little to no fertilizing. Simply plant your Ice Plant flowers and watch them grow!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Go with Compatible Plants
Succulents either grow in the cool or warm seasons. Some grow in October until April when they go dormant. Warm season plants go dormant in October.
Choose the Right Container
Plants with shallow roots or that tend to rot faster do best in low or unglazed containers. Plants with leggy roots or those that require more water thrive in deep containers made of glazed, ceramic, fiberglass or plaster. In “The Plant Recipe Book”, Baylor Chapman has created an easy-to-follow, illustrated guide to creating succulent arrangements at home. She puts succulents in wood frames and boxes, logs and metal vessels, glass cylinders and handmade pottery.
Soil Aeration and Drainage
Bagged cactus mix sold at stores can be too organically rich for most plants so add extra pumice, says Matt Maggio, who creates succulent installations and container gardens for private clients and at Sherman Library and Gardens in Corona del Mar. He recommends two parts cactus mix for every one part pumice.
Matt Maggio’s all-purpose soil recipe: 50-60 percent pumic, 30 percent core (a lightweight substance made of ground coconut husks, which holds moisture and nutrients) and 10-20 percent humus.
Top Covering isn’t Just for Looks
Finishing the surface off with rocks can help control weeds and moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Lining the inside of the pot with bubble wrap helps insulate the plant from excessive heat, which can cause root dieback.
A Break from Mid-Day Sun
In nature, succulents often escape the elements by hiding in the shade of larger plants or rock crevices. So offer your succulent afternoon shade.
Watering Schedule will Vary
Water only during the growing season. “I don’t like to keep the mix wet all the time — you want to let the surface dry out a little bit before you water again”, Maggio says. “Conversely, you don’t want it to get bone dry or you’ll stress the plant. When a plant is water-stressed, it’s going to be dull looking, soft and malleable. When it’s well watered, it’s going to be plump, shiny and firm”.
Succulents either grow in the cool or warm seasons. Some grow in October until April when they go dormant. Warm season plants go dormant in October.
Choose the Right Container
Plants with shallow roots or that tend to rot faster do best in low or unglazed containers. Plants with leggy roots or those that require more water thrive in deep containers made of glazed, ceramic, fiberglass or plaster. In “The Plant Recipe Book”, Baylor Chapman has created an easy-to-follow, illustrated guide to creating succulent arrangements at home. She puts succulents in wood frames and boxes, logs and metal vessels, glass cylinders and handmade pottery.
Soil Aeration and Drainage
Bagged cactus mix sold at stores can be too organically rich for most plants so add extra pumice, says Matt Maggio, who creates succulent installations and container gardens for private clients and at Sherman Library and Gardens in Corona del Mar. He recommends two parts cactus mix for every one part pumice.
Matt Maggio’s all-purpose soil recipe: 50-60 percent pumic, 30 percent core (a lightweight substance made of ground coconut husks, which holds moisture and nutrients) and 10-20 percent humus.
Top Covering isn’t Just for Looks
Finishing the surface off with rocks can help control weeds and moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Lining the inside of the pot with bubble wrap helps insulate the plant from excessive heat, which can cause root dieback.
A Break from Mid-Day Sun
In nature, succulents often escape the elements by hiding in the shade of larger plants or rock crevices. So offer your succulent afternoon shade.
Watering Schedule will Vary
Water only during the growing season. “I don’t like to keep the mix wet all the time — you want to let the surface dry out a little bit before you water again”, Maggio says. “Conversely, you don’t want it to get bone dry or you’ll stress the plant. When a plant is water-stressed, it’s going to be dull looking, soft and malleable. When it’s well watered, it’s going to be plump, shiny and firm”.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genus Fenestraria (Baby Toes or Window Plant) is found in the winter rainfall region of southeastern Namibia and South Africa. The dwarf plants form mats or small clumps in sandy soil. The leaves are flat-topped and windowed, with generally only the uppermost portion exposed in the wild. They possess thick, fleshy roots.
The currently recognized species in this genus is F. rhopalophylla. Each leaf has a leaf window, a transparent window-like area, at its rounded tip, it is for these window-like structures that the genus is named (Latin: fenestra).
Because of their modest size, Fenestrarias are best grown in a pot, either by themselves or in a mixed succulent bowl.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Fenestraria prefer sandy soil and should be watered sparingly at all times to avoid root rot and split leaves. They need to be kept somewhat dry in the summer. Mix equals parts potting soil with pumice or perlite. Outdoors, grow in full to part sun; indoors, provide bright indirect light. Water thoroughly when soil is dry to the touch. Fenestrarias are somewhat frost tolerant, but protection is advisable to prevent scarring.
Propagating
They are usually propagated by seed but sometimes by cuttings. Like many succulents, Fenestrarias produces offsets as the clusters of leaves mature and spread. These are easy to divide from the main clump and will readily produce another plant. The seeds from the plant germinate sporadically and grow extremely slowly. Faster Fenestrarias are achieved by dividing off the side growth.
Pests and Diseases
Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot. Otherwise, this genus is pretty oblivious to pests and diseases.
The currently recognized species in this genus is F. rhopalophylla. Each leaf has a leaf window, a transparent window-like area, at its rounded tip, it is for these window-like structures that the genus is named (Latin: fenestra).
Because of their modest size, Fenestrarias are best grown in a pot, either by themselves or in a mixed succulent bowl.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Fenestraria prefer sandy soil and should be watered sparingly at all times to avoid root rot and split leaves. They need to be kept somewhat dry in the summer. Mix equals parts potting soil with pumice or perlite. Outdoors, grow in full to part sun; indoors, provide bright indirect light. Water thoroughly when soil is dry to the touch. Fenestrarias are somewhat frost tolerant, but protection is advisable to prevent scarring.
Propagating
They are usually propagated by seed but sometimes by cuttings. Like many succulents, Fenestrarias produces offsets as the clusters of leaves mature and spread. These are easy to divide from the main clump and will readily produce another plant. The seeds from the plant germinate sporadically and grow extremely slowly. Faster Fenestrarias are achieved by dividing off the side growth.
Pests and Diseases
Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot. Otherwise, this genus is pretty oblivious to pests and diseases.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Carpobrotus, commonly known as Pigface, Ice Plant, and Hottentot Plant, is a genus of ground-creeping plants with succulent leaves and large daisy-like flowers. The name refers to the edible fruits. It comes from the Ancient Greek karpos (“fruit”) and brota (“edible”).
The genus includes about 20 accepted species. Most are South African, endemics, but there are at least four Australian species and one South American.
Various Carpobrotus species are invasive introduced species in suitable climates throughout the world. The harm they do is variable, and sometimes hotly debated, when balanced against their value as firebreaks and as food for wildlife.
Growing Conditions
Carpobrotus is a perennial plant in its chosen zones but also thrives as an annual in colder areas. The best temperature range for the succulent is between 40 and 100 ˚F (4 – 14 ˚C), but some protection from the sun’s scorching rays may be required in the higher temperature ranges.
Growing Carpobrotus in planters prevents it from spreading in those areas where that is a concern. Freezing temperatures may cause the plant to die back, but it will resprout in spring in temperate area.
Propagation
Stem cutting is the fastest way to propagate this fast growing plants. Seeds are also available and you may start them indoors at least six weeks before the date of the last frost.
General Care
Ice plants are notoriously un-fussy. As long as their soil drains well, the soil is allowed to dry out between watering and the plant receives pinching or pruning to keep it in shape, there is little more to be done.
The only serious threats to the plant’s health are spittle bugs and some root rots and stem rots. You can avoid the rot by minimizing overhead watering during periods in which the plant will not dry off before nightfall. The bugs will remove themselves if you spray with a horticultural soap.
Growing Carpobrotus in containers is ideal, and you can overwinter them in temperate regions. Just bring the pot in and water it deeply. Cut back the plant and let it dry out and languish for the winter in a warm location. In March, resume regular watering and move the plant to a full light situation where it has some protection from burning rays. Gradually reintroduce the plant to temperatures outdoors until it can tolerate a full day outside.
The genus includes about 20 accepted species. Most are South African, endemics, but there are at least four Australian species and one South American.
Various Carpobrotus species are invasive introduced species in suitable climates throughout the world. The harm they do is variable, and sometimes hotly debated, when balanced against their value as firebreaks and as food for wildlife.
Growing Conditions
Carpobrotus is a perennial plant in its chosen zones but also thrives as an annual in colder areas. The best temperature range for the succulent is between 40 and 100 ˚F (4 – 14 ˚C), but some protection from the sun’s scorching rays may be required in the higher temperature ranges.
Growing Carpobrotus in planters prevents it from spreading in those areas where that is a concern. Freezing temperatures may cause the plant to die back, but it will resprout in spring in temperate area.
Propagation
Stem cutting is the fastest way to propagate this fast growing plants. Seeds are also available and you may start them indoors at least six weeks before the date of the last frost.
General Care
Ice plants are notoriously un-fussy. As long as their soil drains well, the soil is allowed to dry out between watering and the plant receives pinching or pruning to keep it in shape, there is little more to be done.
The only serious threats to the plant’s health are spittle bugs and some root rots and stem rots. You can avoid the rot by minimizing overhead watering during periods in which the plant will not dry off before nightfall. The bugs will remove themselves if you spray with a horticultural soap.
Growing Carpobrotus in containers is ideal, and you can overwinter them in temperate regions. Just bring the pot in and water it deeply. Cut back the plant and let it dry out and languish for the winter in a warm location. In March, resume regular watering and move the plant to a full light situation where it has some protection from burning rays. Gradually reintroduce the plant to temperatures outdoors until it can tolerate a full day outside.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Pachypodiums are succulent plants such as the cactus, but the basic difference is that the Pachypodiums have visible leaves, in some species the leaves are even very large in relation to plant (For example Pachypodium rutenbergianum, Pachypodium lamerei).
This characteristic means that this plant use its leaves to acquire their necessary needs for water and carbon dioxide quickly. So they acquire their nutritional needs especially during the rainy season which may be suddenly and violently in the warm season. This is necessary for them as the growing season is quite short in their natural environment.
The Pachypodiums have large fibrous roots that absorb moisture very quickly as they need to take advantage of the sudden (but very rare) good rains in their natural habitat. In contrast, the majority of the other succulent plants has much finer roots.
The Pachypodiums have a thick and shiny bark that makes it possible for them to reflect the strong sunlight and to protect themselves from drying out during the long periods of drought.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The three parameters of light, temperature and watering are closely linked: you should not change one without the other two. It is therefore important to note that the balance of these three parameters determine the good or bad health of their plant.
All kinds of Pachypodiums – except perhaps Pachypodium succulentum and Pachypodium bispinosum from South Africa – need much light because they originally grow under full sun in tropical countries. Direct sunlight is not absolutely necessary, but the sunlight should not be shielded by a natural (or artificial) view protection. A Pachypodium with a lack of light will wither, its branches will be weak and appear “lean” and the leaves will be too big and soft. Over time the Pachypodium will be susceptible to disease and fungus and the plant will eventually die.
The temperature can be very high, as in the habitats in Madagascar and South Africa in the summer. The minimum temperature is much more impotant for growing Pachypodiums because it triggers the rest. For most types of Pachypodiums the minimum temperature is about 55° F (13° C), but it depends very much on the moisture of the substrate. The drier the substrate, the lower temperatures are possible. Ideally you shouldn’t fall below a minimum temperature of 59° F (15° C) during the rest period.
In the growth phase the Pachypodiums require a lot of water. The fact is that the climatic environment drives them to store as much water as possible in a short time. As the rainy season can be very short, the plant must quickly invest their reserves. Some people say they are opportunists. For beginners it is sometimes difficult to consider when and how much water you should give the Pachypodium. You should not treat it like a cactus in any case. A helpful rule is to not be completely dry to the soil during periods of growth before it is poured again.
The dormancy or rest period of Pachypodiums is the most delicate moment to decide if you should water or not and how much. It is the time that is most misunderstood by beginners. In fact, it is different from other succulents so that the plant is not likely to survive without irrigation until next spring. Although the plants are very hard plants, you should consider that the plants need regularly water to replenish its moisture reserves in the rest period.
Pests and Diseases
Fortunately, the Pachypodiums are very rarely attacked by insects and also fungis are scarce. It is always better to solve the problems that may occur in a mechanical way (such as spraying water on the leaves, when beetles are on) or to try biological and organic products. Most of the problems come from the treatment and the cultivation, so it is important to first think before treating the plant with an aggressive product, because the consequences for the plant could be very bad.
This characteristic means that this plant use its leaves to acquire their necessary needs for water and carbon dioxide quickly. So they acquire their nutritional needs especially during the rainy season which may be suddenly and violently in the warm season. This is necessary for them as the growing season is quite short in their natural environment.
The Pachypodiums have large fibrous roots that absorb moisture very quickly as they need to take advantage of the sudden (but very rare) good rains in their natural habitat. In contrast, the majority of the other succulent plants has much finer roots.
The Pachypodiums have a thick and shiny bark that makes it possible for them to reflect the strong sunlight and to protect themselves from drying out during the long periods of drought.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The three parameters of light, temperature and watering are closely linked: you should not change one without the other two. It is therefore important to note that the balance of these three parameters determine the good or bad health of their plant.
All kinds of Pachypodiums – except perhaps Pachypodium succulentum and Pachypodium bispinosum from South Africa – need much light because they originally grow under full sun in tropical countries. Direct sunlight is not absolutely necessary, but the sunlight should not be shielded by a natural (or artificial) view protection. A Pachypodium with a lack of light will wither, its branches will be weak and appear “lean” and the leaves will be too big and soft. Over time the Pachypodium will be susceptible to disease and fungus and the plant will eventually die.
The temperature can be very high, as in the habitats in Madagascar and South Africa in the summer. The minimum temperature is much more impotant for growing Pachypodiums because it triggers the rest. For most types of Pachypodiums the minimum temperature is about 55° F (13° C), but it depends very much on the moisture of the substrate. The drier the substrate, the lower temperatures are possible. Ideally you shouldn’t fall below a minimum temperature of 59° F (15° C) during the rest period.
In the growth phase the Pachypodiums require a lot of water. The fact is that the climatic environment drives them to store as much water as possible in a short time. As the rainy season can be very short, the plant must quickly invest their reserves. Some people say they are opportunists. For beginners it is sometimes difficult to consider when and how much water you should give the Pachypodium. You should not treat it like a cactus in any case. A helpful rule is to not be completely dry to the soil during periods of growth before it is poured again.
The dormancy or rest period of Pachypodiums is the most delicate moment to decide if you should water or not and how much. It is the time that is most misunderstood by beginners. In fact, it is different from other succulents so that the plant is not likely to survive without irrigation until next spring. Although the plants are very hard plants, you should consider that the plants need regularly water to replenish its moisture reserves in the rest period.
Pests and Diseases
Fortunately, the Pachypodiums are very rarely attacked by insects and also fungis are scarce. It is always better to solve the problems that may occur in a mechanical way (such as spraying water on the leaves, when beetles are on) or to try biological and organic products. Most of the problems come from the treatment and the cultivation, so it is important to first think before treating the plant with an aggressive product, because the consequences for the plant could be very bad.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The plants listed below are generally reliable and of easy culture, as long as you remember that no succulent plant likes to have prolonged moist soil; the potting mix should allow good drainage. Also, most succulents like quite bright light — they are not shade-loving plants. Those on this list are mostly smaller species that live amongst rocks or under other plants in nature, and therefore can tolerate somewhat lower lighting conditions.
There are about 10,000 different types of succulent plants in nature. Hybridizers have given us another thousand or so. Most of the natural species (except for the very most common in cultivation) do not have common names. In most cases, the names appearing below refer to a genus (group of closely related species) that share similar cultivational requirements, but not all species within a genus may be equally easy to grow. There are many other plants not on this list that will be equally good for beginners.
All of these should be considered frost-tender and grown as container plants to be moved indoors during our cold months.
Cacti
Echinopsis. Mostly small, globular South American cacti, often with large white flowers, but other colors occur. There is a large number of named hybrids with spectacular flowers in a rainbow of colors. If dry, most can take light frost. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Lobivia.
Ferocactus. This is a genus of plants commonly called Barrel Cacti, from the southwest United States and Mexico. They have well developed and beautiful spines, often colored red or yellow (such as the Golden Barrel). Many tend to get fairly big, but they grow slowly. Ferocactus generally grow in full direct sun so can be placed outside in full sun for the summer and should be kept in the brightest possible location indoors during the cold season, with reduced watering to reduce growth.
Gymnocalycium. Another group of small globular South American cacti with interesting spines and white to pastel flowers usually willingly produced.
Rhipsalis. This is a very different looking group of true cacti native to the rainforests of the Americas where they live as epiphytes within the forest canopy. They are very slender stemmed, and pendant, making good hanging baskets in areas of lower light. They are very frost tender. Many are totally spineless or nearly so and the flowers are very tiny and not showy. These make good accent plants for shady patios or hanging from trees during the summer months.
Mammillaria. A large group of popular plants from the American Southwest into southern Mexico. Most are fairly small and quite spiny. Many flower freely in cultivation. Most cluster in time.
Parodia. Another popular group of smaller species from South America, many with beautiful flowers of various colors. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Notocactus.
Rebutia. Yet another very popular group of quite small globular cacti, many of which cluster freely. Many of these will live for several years in a 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pot. Spination is quite variable – some have soft fuzzy “fur”; others have very tiny spines; others have more typical spines. They originate from the high Andes mountains of Bolivia and Argentina, often living under other vegetation. Flower colors range from white to pink to lilac to deep red, and yellow to deep orange. They should be provided with a cool, dry winter rest to promote best flowering. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Sulcorebutia.
Other Succulents
Adenium. This is a small group of leafy stem succulents from Africa and Arabia. They are sometimes called Desert Rose. They have two main appeals: they have very thickened, sculptural appealing succulent stems and they produce an abundance of flowers that range from pink to bright red, often with contrasting yellow and white stripes or markings. In nature some grow to the size of small trees but they can be kept in pots for a very long time; they lend themselves to bonsai culture. Both here in the United States and also in Asia there has been much hybridization resulting in an amazing array of flower colors and shapes. They tend to be susceptible to spider mites when grown indoors, but can be forced into a state of leafless dormancy by greatly reducing watering while they are indoors in the winter.
Agave. Sometimes called Century Plants, these are native to the American Southwest, Mexico, and the Caribbean. They are rosette-forming plants, and the leaves are often armored with spines along the edges and at the tip. Many form giant plants many feet across, but others can stay nicely in a 5-10 inches (12-20 cm) pot for many years. They are mostly grown for the decorative plant architecture (leaf color and spination). It takes many years for them to bloom (though not a century!) and when they bloom the plant dies. Many popular forms have variegated leaves with linear stripes of white or yellow. They prefer full sun in the summer and a bright location when indoors.
Aloe. Another genus of rosette-forming succulents, these from Africa and Arabia. There are hundreds of species, ranging in size from huge trees to tiny dwarfs that will live happily for years in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots. They are a very popular subject for hybridizers who have developed wonderfully colored, patterned and toothed foliage. Most all of the smaller species also bloom easily, with stalked clusters of tubular flowers mostly red, pink, orange, or yellow.
Crassula. A large genus of African succulents that includes the popular Jade Plant. Many species are very tiny dwarfs, but these prefer very bright conditions to maintain their attractive compact form and interesting leaf colors.
Echeveria. This is a popular group of Mexican succulents. The leaves are colorful and sometimes with unusual shapes and many flower successfully under our conditions. In low light they can become rather floppy and lose their interesting coloration.
Euphorbia. This is a huge genus of plants that includes our common garden spurges. A few of the succulent species occur in the New World, but most commonly come from the Old World, primarily Africa. They vary greatly in body form and many look amazingly like true cacti. Others look more shrubby and some are quite leafy, such as the common “Crown of Thorns” (Euphorbia milii) which comes from Madagascar.
Gasteria. This is a small genus from South Africa related to Aloe and has been used as a parent in hybridization between the two genera. All the plants stay small and lend themselves to container culture. They also tend to tolerate lower light conditions. They flower readily with spikes of pinkish flowers.
Haworthia. Another South African genus related to Aloe, and with many forms. Unfortunately, the taxonomy of the genus is very difficult and in some cases the same plants can be found under numerous names. They all stay as quite small rosettes; most cluster but some do not. Some of the smaller ones can live for years in a 3 inches (8 cm) pot. Those that have numerous slender leaves do very well with our short dreary days of winter but the more compact types with relatively few highly succulent leaves tend to stretch a bit in winter and therefore should be kept quite dry to reduce this tendency. Many have very nice leaf markings and interesting color patterns that come out best when in full sun. Most flower easily, though the flowers, which are borne on thin elongate stalks, are rather small, white and amazingly similar between species. This is a very popular group.
Hoya. These are mostly hanging or vining species originating from southern Asia, through the islands of the Pacific southward to New Guinea and Australia. Hoya carnosa is often referred to as the wax vine as the flowers, which occur in large cluster, appear sculpted from wax. This species has several named cultivars, the very twisted Hindu rope being one. As forest species that can handle lower light conditions and some are popular houseplants.
Portulacaria. This is a small genus mostly from southern Africa. One species, Portulacaria afra, is very commonly cultivated. It somewhat appears like a smaller Jade Plant, but with thinner stems and smaller leaves. It branches profusely and can be pruned and shaped into a bonsai appearance. There is also a form with variegated leaves.
Sansevieria. These plants originate from Africa to southern Asia. Many are grown as houseplants such as the very common Sansevieria trifasciata which can be seen in most shopping malls and doctors’ offices throughout the country. This species and other thin-leafed species can tolerate low light and much neglect. There are other, more interesting and highly succulent species that require higher light levels. The send out spikes of white, often pleasantly-fragranced flowers.
Zamioculcas. There is only one species in this genus, with the catchy name of Zamioculcas zamiifolia (therefore sometimes called the ZZ plant). From an underground tuber it produces quite large compound leaves with thick succulent leaf midribs and numerous dark green glossy leaflets. It can tolerate low light conditions and significant neglect though the leaves will wither and die if kept without water too long. It is from Kenya southward in eastern Africa. Even though succulent, it looks a bit more like a tropical houseplant.
In addition to the genera discussed above, there are two other groups that are worthy of mention. These are larger groups, with multiple genera, but which can be considered somewhat together.
“Mesembs”. These are members of the plant family Aizoaceae (subfamily Mesembryanthemaceae). This is a very large family (2000 species) and all are succulent. Most are from southern Africa. They all have highly succulent leaves but they range in form from dense woody shrubs to tiny highly succulent clumps. They all produce colorful flowers that resemble small daisies. One of the most popular genera is Lithops; these plants are sometimes called “Split Rocks” as the single pair of highly succulent leaves looks like a round pebble broken in half. Other popular genera of dwarf, highly succulent species include Aloinopsis (including Nananthus), Argyroderma, Cheiridopsis, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, Fenestraria (“Baby Toes”), Pleiospilos, and Titanopsis. The species vary in their reliability under cultivation. All are highly succulent and prone to rot if overwatered. Some are winter growers and therefore lose their compact form under the low light conditions of our winters. If you are interested in this group, give them as much light as possible year-round and be very careful with watering. And then assume that you will occasionally lose one anyway!
“Stapeliads”. These plants belong to the Milkweed family. In the dry areas of the Old World this group of plants has evolved to be highly succulent. Virtually all are leafless. The stems are thick and fleshy and photosynthetic, and come in a variety of colors, shapes, and armature. Some species get quite large but many will happily stay in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots for years. The attraction of this group is the star-shaped flowers that range in size from under a half inch to over 8 inches (20 cm) across. The flowers are very fleshy and come in a variety of colors from yellow to purple and usually have interesting markings. Many are pollinated by flies attracted to the fragrance of these flowers, which can be of the potency of a decaying buffalo (hence the name “Carrion Flower” given to some species). Some of the more commonly cultivated genera include Caralluma, Huernia, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Stapelia, and Stapeliopsis, but there are many others equally interesting. Stapelia gigantea (named for the large flowers) is probably the most widely grown species in the group and can be found happily growing and flowering in bright windowsills throughout the world. These should all be given good light throughout the year and watered carefully or they may succumb to rot. Stem segments root easily and it is wise to always have a couple new ones coming along … just in case. They are also highly susceptible to mealybugs.
There are about 10,000 different types of succulent plants in nature. Hybridizers have given us another thousand or so. Most of the natural species (except for the very most common in cultivation) do not have common names. In most cases, the names appearing below refer to a genus (group of closely related species) that share similar cultivational requirements, but not all species within a genus may be equally easy to grow. There are many other plants not on this list that will be equally good for beginners.
All of these should be considered frost-tender and grown as container plants to be moved indoors during our cold months.
Cacti
Echinopsis. Mostly small, globular South American cacti, often with large white flowers, but other colors occur. There is a large number of named hybrids with spectacular flowers in a rainbow of colors. If dry, most can take light frost. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Lobivia.
Ferocactus. This is a genus of plants commonly called Barrel Cacti, from the southwest United States and Mexico. They have well developed and beautiful spines, often colored red or yellow (such as the Golden Barrel). Many tend to get fairly big, but they grow slowly. Ferocactus generally grow in full direct sun so can be placed outside in full sun for the summer and should be kept in the brightest possible location indoors during the cold season, with reduced watering to reduce growth.
Gymnocalycium. Another group of small globular South American cacti with interesting spines and white to pastel flowers usually willingly produced.
Rhipsalis. This is a very different looking group of true cacti native to the rainforests of the Americas where they live as epiphytes within the forest canopy. They are very slender stemmed, and pendant, making good hanging baskets in areas of lower light. They are very frost tender. Many are totally spineless or nearly so and the flowers are very tiny and not showy. These make good accent plants for shady patios or hanging from trees during the summer months.
Mammillaria. A large group of popular plants from the American Southwest into southern Mexico. Most are fairly small and quite spiny. Many flower freely in cultivation. Most cluster in time.
Parodia. Another popular group of smaller species from South America, many with beautiful flowers of various colors. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Notocactus.
Rebutia. Yet another very popular group of quite small globular cacti, many of which cluster freely. Many of these will live for several years in a 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pot. Spination is quite variable – some have soft fuzzy “fur”; others have very tiny spines; others have more typical spines. They originate from the high Andes mountains of Bolivia and Argentina, often living under other vegetation. Flower colors range from white to pink to lilac to deep red, and yellow to deep orange. They should be provided with a cool, dry winter rest to promote best flowering. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Sulcorebutia.
Other Succulents
Adenium. This is a small group of leafy stem succulents from Africa and Arabia. They are sometimes called Desert Rose. They have two main appeals: they have very thickened, sculptural appealing succulent stems and they produce an abundance of flowers that range from pink to bright red, often with contrasting yellow and white stripes or markings. In nature some grow to the size of small trees but they can be kept in pots for a very long time; they lend themselves to bonsai culture. Both here in the United States and also in Asia there has been much hybridization resulting in an amazing array of flower colors and shapes. They tend to be susceptible to spider mites when grown indoors, but can be forced into a state of leafless dormancy by greatly reducing watering while they are indoors in the winter.
Agave. Sometimes called Century Plants, these are native to the American Southwest, Mexico, and the Caribbean. They are rosette-forming plants, and the leaves are often armored with spines along the edges and at the tip. Many form giant plants many feet across, but others can stay nicely in a 5-10 inches (12-20 cm) pot for many years. They are mostly grown for the decorative plant architecture (leaf color and spination). It takes many years for them to bloom (though not a century!) and when they bloom the plant dies. Many popular forms have variegated leaves with linear stripes of white or yellow. They prefer full sun in the summer and a bright location when indoors.
Aloe. Another genus of rosette-forming succulents, these from Africa and Arabia. There are hundreds of species, ranging in size from huge trees to tiny dwarfs that will live happily for years in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots. They are a very popular subject for hybridizers who have developed wonderfully colored, patterned and toothed foliage. Most all of the smaller species also bloom easily, with stalked clusters of tubular flowers mostly red, pink, orange, or yellow.
Crassula. A large genus of African succulents that includes the popular Jade Plant. Many species are very tiny dwarfs, but these prefer very bright conditions to maintain their attractive compact form and interesting leaf colors.
Echeveria. This is a popular group of Mexican succulents. The leaves are colorful and sometimes with unusual shapes and many flower successfully under our conditions. In low light they can become rather floppy and lose their interesting coloration.
Euphorbia. This is a huge genus of plants that includes our common garden spurges. A few of the succulent species occur in the New World, but most commonly come from the Old World, primarily Africa. They vary greatly in body form and many look amazingly like true cacti. Others look more shrubby and some are quite leafy, such as the common “Crown of Thorns” (Euphorbia milii) which comes from Madagascar.
Gasteria. This is a small genus from South Africa related to Aloe and has been used as a parent in hybridization between the two genera. All the plants stay small and lend themselves to container culture. They also tend to tolerate lower light conditions. They flower readily with spikes of pinkish flowers.
Haworthia. Another South African genus related to Aloe, and with many forms. Unfortunately, the taxonomy of the genus is very difficult and in some cases the same plants can be found under numerous names. They all stay as quite small rosettes; most cluster but some do not. Some of the smaller ones can live for years in a 3 inches (8 cm) pot. Those that have numerous slender leaves do very well with our short dreary days of winter but the more compact types with relatively few highly succulent leaves tend to stretch a bit in winter and therefore should be kept quite dry to reduce this tendency. Many have very nice leaf markings and interesting color patterns that come out best when in full sun. Most flower easily, though the flowers, which are borne on thin elongate stalks, are rather small, white and amazingly similar between species. This is a very popular group.
Hoya. These are mostly hanging or vining species originating from southern Asia, through the islands of the Pacific southward to New Guinea and Australia. Hoya carnosa is often referred to as the wax vine as the flowers, which occur in large cluster, appear sculpted from wax. This species has several named cultivars, the very twisted Hindu rope being one. As forest species that can handle lower light conditions and some are popular houseplants.
Portulacaria. This is a small genus mostly from southern Africa. One species, Portulacaria afra, is very commonly cultivated. It somewhat appears like a smaller Jade Plant, but with thinner stems and smaller leaves. It branches profusely and can be pruned and shaped into a bonsai appearance. There is also a form with variegated leaves.
Sansevieria. These plants originate from Africa to southern Asia. Many are grown as houseplants such as the very common Sansevieria trifasciata which can be seen in most shopping malls and doctors’ offices throughout the country. This species and other thin-leafed species can tolerate low light and much neglect. There are other, more interesting and highly succulent species that require higher light levels. The send out spikes of white, often pleasantly-fragranced flowers.
Zamioculcas. There is only one species in this genus, with the catchy name of Zamioculcas zamiifolia (therefore sometimes called the ZZ plant). From an underground tuber it produces quite large compound leaves with thick succulent leaf midribs and numerous dark green glossy leaflets. It can tolerate low light conditions and significant neglect though the leaves will wither and die if kept without water too long. It is from Kenya southward in eastern Africa. Even though succulent, it looks a bit more like a tropical houseplant.
In addition to the genera discussed above, there are two other groups that are worthy of mention. These are larger groups, with multiple genera, but which can be considered somewhat together.
“Mesembs”. These are members of the plant family Aizoaceae (subfamily Mesembryanthemaceae). This is a very large family (2000 species) and all are succulent. Most are from southern Africa. They all have highly succulent leaves but they range in form from dense woody shrubs to tiny highly succulent clumps. They all produce colorful flowers that resemble small daisies. One of the most popular genera is Lithops; these plants are sometimes called “Split Rocks” as the single pair of highly succulent leaves looks like a round pebble broken in half. Other popular genera of dwarf, highly succulent species include Aloinopsis (including Nananthus), Argyroderma, Cheiridopsis, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, Fenestraria (“Baby Toes”), Pleiospilos, and Titanopsis. The species vary in their reliability under cultivation. All are highly succulent and prone to rot if overwatered. Some are winter growers and therefore lose their compact form under the low light conditions of our winters. If you are interested in this group, give them as much light as possible year-round and be very careful with watering. And then assume that you will occasionally lose one anyway!
“Stapeliads”. These plants belong to the Milkweed family. In the dry areas of the Old World this group of plants has evolved to be highly succulent. Virtually all are leafless. The stems are thick and fleshy and photosynthetic, and come in a variety of colors, shapes, and armature. Some species get quite large but many will happily stay in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots for years. The attraction of this group is the star-shaped flowers that range in size from under a half inch to over 8 inches (20 cm) across. The flowers are very fleshy and come in a variety of colors from yellow to purple and usually have interesting markings. Many are pollinated by flies attracted to the fragrance of these flowers, which can be of the potency of a decaying buffalo (hence the name “Carrion Flower” given to some species). Some of the more commonly cultivated genera include Caralluma, Huernia, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Stapelia, and Stapeliopsis, but there are many others equally interesting. Stapelia gigantea (named for the large flowers) is probably the most widely grown species in the group and can be found happily growing and flowering in bright windowsills throughout the world. These should all be given good light throughout the year and watered carefully or they may succumb to rot. Stem segments root easily and it is wise to always have a couple new ones coming along … just in case. They are also highly susceptible to mealybugs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Parodia genus includes a multitude of showy and easy-to-grow small ball cacti. After a reorganization of the genus, the Parodia genus now includes plants that were formerly known as Notocactus, Eriocactus, and Brasilicactus. Parodia are native to central South America, where they enjoy somewhat more moisture than most people associate with cacti. They are also not full-sun plants, but especially during the summer months of strong sun they appreciate some daytime shade.
Older plants will frequently produce flowers in yellow, red, orange, or pink, depending on the species. Overall, these are easy and excellent beginning cacti.
Growing Conditions
Light: Parodia typically don’t like direct afternoon sunlight and should be in partial shade through the hottest hours. They can take direct sunlight in the morning and afternoons.
Water: Throughout the growing season (spring and summer) provide regular water to keep the potting soil lightly moist. In the winter, cut back watering and let the soil almost dry between waterings, but do not let it completely dry out.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. These respond especially well to fertilizer. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Parodia cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. To propagate, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut section to dry on a paper towel for a few days. Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container. Parodia are also relatively easy to grow from seeds. Once the sprouts have emerged, keep them regularly moist for the few months and be prepared to wait: some of the more common Parodia species can take a long time to grow to a decent size.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Parodia without too much trouble. It’s key to remember, however, that Parodia don’t like direct sunlight and are accustomed to more even water than many other cacti species. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and dramatically cut back watering. Unlike other cacti species, however, you don’t need to entirely stop watering. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
Older plants will frequently produce flowers in yellow, red, orange, or pink, depending on the species. Overall, these are easy and excellent beginning cacti.
Growing Conditions
Light: Parodia typically don’t like direct afternoon sunlight and should be in partial shade through the hottest hours. They can take direct sunlight in the morning and afternoons.
Water: Throughout the growing season (spring and summer) provide regular water to keep the potting soil lightly moist. In the winter, cut back watering and let the soil almost dry between waterings, but do not let it completely dry out.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. These respond especially well to fertilizer. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Parodia cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. To propagate, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut section to dry on a paper towel for a few days. Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container. Parodia are also relatively easy to grow from seeds. Once the sprouts have emerged, keep them regularly moist for the few months and be prepared to wait: some of the more common Parodia species can take a long time to grow to a decent size.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Parodia without too much trouble. It’s key to remember, however, that Parodia don’t like direct sunlight and are accustomed to more even water than many other cacti species. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and dramatically cut back watering. Unlike other cacti species, however, you don’t need to entirely stop watering. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Aichryson is a genus of about 15 species of small tender succulent plants and sub-shrubs, of which 10 species are Canary Islands endemics and others are from the Azores, Madeira and Morocco.
They are related to the Canary Islands genera Aeonium and Monanthes which also have polymerous (many-parted) yellow flowers. The succulent leaves are pubescent to densely hairy. The inflorescence is a loose raceme of dozens to hundreds of yellow to greenish-yellow star-shaped flowers.
Aichryson grow as understory plants in the endemic laurel and pine forests of the Canary Islands and prefer to grow in slightly shaded moist soil with plenty of humus. They tolerate a cool, frost-free winter kept fairly dry. Some species are annuals or biennials, but the shrubby perennials also need to be re-started from cuttings on a regular basis to be at their best. Many species produce volunteer seedlings around themselves after flowering.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Aichrysons are very tolerant of mixed conditions and will tolerate considerable shade as well as full sun. Given the right conditions these plants will provide an incredible show of yellow flowers. Grow these plants hard with very little fertilizer because they can flower them selves to death. Aichrysons have a very structural trunk and make excellent bonsai subjects.
In winter they require a rather sunny spot inside at moderate, cool temperatures. If they become too large, plants can be cut back. Cuttings will easily root within few days. These ornamental dwarf plants are excellent pot plants and will thrive in any partially shaded spot at cool temperatures, e.g. on a window sill.
They are related to the Canary Islands genera Aeonium and Monanthes which also have polymerous (many-parted) yellow flowers. The succulent leaves are pubescent to densely hairy. The inflorescence is a loose raceme of dozens to hundreds of yellow to greenish-yellow star-shaped flowers.
Aichryson grow as understory plants in the endemic laurel and pine forests of the Canary Islands and prefer to grow in slightly shaded moist soil with plenty of humus. They tolerate a cool, frost-free winter kept fairly dry. Some species are annuals or biennials, but the shrubby perennials also need to be re-started from cuttings on a regular basis to be at their best. Many species produce volunteer seedlings around themselves after flowering.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Aichrysons are very tolerant of mixed conditions and will tolerate considerable shade as well as full sun. Given the right conditions these plants will provide an incredible show of yellow flowers. Grow these plants hard with very little fertilizer because they can flower them selves to death. Aichrysons have a very structural trunk and make excellent bonsai subjects.
In winter they require a rather sunny spot inside at moderate, cool temperatures. If they become too large, plants can be cut back. Cuttings will easily root within few days. These ornamental dwarf plants are excellent pot plants and will thrive in any partially shaded spot at cool temperatures, e.g. on a window sill.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Fenestraria, also know as Baby Toes is a small genus of miniature succulent plants that can be grown indoor or outdoor as small ornamental plants. These tiny plants are characterized by clumps of small, soft and succulent leaves.
Fenestraria comes from arid regions of Namibia and South Africa where they grow and hide themselves in sandy soil in order to retain maximum water in their leaves protect them from harsh sunlight.
When grown as houseplants, they tend to produce large clumps of fleshy and soft leaves that look like pebbles or tiny toes, that is why, they are commonly described as Baby Toes plants.
Baby Toes are excellent choice for miniature gardens or as miniature indoor plants. They can be grown in containers as low-maintenance plants.
Either grown indoor or outdoor, Fenestraria loves bright but filtered sunlight in summer and protection from winter frost. The plant requires sandy and well-drained soil with regular dose of general fertilizer. Water only when the soil is completely dry because these plants cannot survive wet conditions.
Fenestraria plant produces white or yellow flowers in winter. Commercially available species are:
F. aurantiaca: Grows as dwarf (2 inches / 5 cm) succulent plant and produces grey-green leaves and yellow flowers.
F. rhopalophylla: Miniature succulent with white flowers and grey-green leaves; grows up to 1.6 inches (4 cm).
Fenestraria comes from arid regions of Namibia and South Africa where they grow and hide themselves in sandy soil in order to retain maximum water in their leaves protect them from harsh sunlight.
When grown as houseplants, they tend to produce large clumps of fleshy and soft leaves that look like pebbles or tiny toes, that is why, they are commonly described as Baby Toes plants.
Baby Toes are excellent choice for miniature gardens or as miniature indoor plants. They can be grown in containers as low-maintenance plants.
Either grown indoor or outdoor, Fenestraria loves bright but filtered sunlight in summer and protection from winter frost. The plant requires sandy and well-drained soil with regular dose of general fertilizer. Water only when the soil is completely dry because these plants cannot survive wet conditions.
Fenestraria plant produces white or yellow flowers in winter. Commercially available species are:
F. aurantiaca: Grows as dwarf (2 inches / 5 cm) succulent plant and produces grey-green leaves and yellow flowers.
F. rhopalophylla: Miniature succulent with white flowers and grey-green leaves; grows up to 1.6 inches (4 cm).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Faucaria is a genus of succulent subtropical plants of the family Aizoaceae. The species are collectively known as “Tiger Jaws”. This refers to the spiny looking edges of the leaves. The name comes from the Latin word “fauces” (= animal mouth) because of the appearance of leaves.
The genus Faucaria was subjected to an extensive revision by Groen & Van Der Maesen in 1999. The 30 or so recognized species were reduced to only 6. The very variable Faucaria felina absorbing most of the species. This somewhat solve the issue of the numerous nursery plants sold as Faucaria spp.: The very large majority of them are just Faucaria felina.
Faucarias form clumps of stemless rosettes. They are small plants, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter, thick triangular or semi-circular leaves, light green in color, turning purple in the event of strong sunshine.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The various species make excellent pot subjects and have been cultivated in Europe for over three hundred years. Some species, such as Faucaria tigrina, are quite hardy, while others can be prone to stem rot.
Faucarias are mostly spring and fall growers. They need good drainage but with a little shade they will do just fine even with extreme heat, although they do stop growing then, and they need water every few days. When they lack water, as many other mesembs, the stems die and some of the rosettes are not connected to the roots by any living tissue. When found in time, the rosettes can be used as cuttings and keep in the shade in a barely moist medium until the temperature cools down in the fall.
They bloom for several months in in fall or the beginning of winter. The flowers open around midday and close in the late afternoon. They often don’t open if the weather is cloudy, or if they are in the shade. Flower color ranges from yellow to white and even pink.
Most species will take a small amount of frost.
Porpagation
Faucarias are easily propagated by seed.
The genus Faucaria was subjected to an extensive revision by Groen & Van Der Maesen in 1999. The 30 or so recognized species were reduced to only 6. The very variable Faucaria felina absorbing most of the species. This somewhat solve the issue of the numerous nursery plants sold as Faucaria spp.: The very large majority of them are just Faucaria felina.
Faucarias form clumps of stemless rosettes. They are small plants, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter, thick triangular or semi-circular leaves, light green in color, turning purple in the event of strong sunshine.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The various species make excellent pot subjects and have been cultivated in Europe for over three hundred years. Some species, such as Faucaria tigrina, are quite hardy, while others can be prone to stem rot.
Faucarias are mostly spring and fall growers. They need good drainage but with a little shade they will do just fine even with extreme heat, although they do stop growing then, and they need water every few days. When they lack water, as many other mesembs, the stems die and some of the rosettes are not connected to the roots by any living tissue. When found in time, the rosettes can be used as cuttings and keep in the shade in a barely moist medium until the temperature cools down in the fall.
They bloom for several months in in fall or the beginning of winter. The flowers open around midday and close in the late afternoon. They often don’t open if the weather is cloudy, or if they are in the shade. Flower color ranges from yellow to white and even pink.
Most species will take a small amount of frost.
Porpagation
Faucarias are easily propagated by seed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Plants are a quick, inexpensive, and easy way to add something pretty and alive to your space. An indoor succulent garden fits the bill for all these things. Succulents go for a couple dollars a pop at your local nursery or home improvement store, and they are built to survive in the harshest of conditions — perfect for those who tend to forget the watering chore or who don’t have a green thumb.
Choosing Succulents
In order to choose the best combination of succulents, it’s important to keep variety in mind. Choose plants of different sizes, heights, shapes, and colors. The largest variance for your succulent garden should be in the height, size, and shape of the plants. It’s best to choose around three different colors for the succulents and not many more than that, as too many colors can be overwhelming to the eye. Sticking to just a few colors creates consistency in your garden, yet provides flexibility in the choice of height, size, and types of plants you choose. Some gardening stores will have a variety of succulents planted in one large pot already, but be aware that these plants tend to be planted too close together to stay alive in that same pot long-term.
Potting
Because they have shallow roots, succulents can grow in just about anything you have around the house, from vintage canisters to decorative pots. Try coffee mugs, pots, jars, canisters, buckets, kettles, tin cans, glassware, or any other container that might add to your current space and style. Multiple plants can be placed in the same container in order to create the look of a garden—but be careful not to crowd the plants, as they will grow and need to be replanted in a larger container. If you don’t want to see the soil in the area surrounding the plant, place some decorative stones on top.
Soil
Fill the bottom of the container you choose with several inches of gravel, which allows the water to drain from the roots of the succulent plant after watering; succulent roots must be able to drain, otherwise the plant will die if the roots are moist all the time. On top of the gravel, fill the pot with cactus soil, or an equal mixture of sand and soil. Regular potting soil is too rich and holds too much moisture for succulents, so be sure to use a sandy soil, so that the water can drain properly. A proper mix should be available at your local nursery or home improvement store.
Heat and Light
Succulents and cacti plants like to be warm and dry, and they love the light. If you live someplace dark and gloomy most of the winter, ensure that you have some lights on for these plants, even if they are near a window. Be careful, however, not to place them near windows that get too much sun, such as south-facing windows. While succulents can handle cold weather and lack of sun for periods of time, the light and warmth make them happiest.
Water and Routine Care
Succulents do not need a ton of water to survive, but they must be watered properly. They have shallow roots that should dry between each watering — they will absorb the water they need and the rest can drain out of the bottom, if there’s a hole in the container, or pass through the gravel at the bottom. Because of this, put emphasis on watering them thoroughly as opposed to frequently. Note that if you do over-water them, they will plump up and look healthy before turning sickly.
All succulents will grow to larger sizes and will need to be re-potted from time to time. Be sure not to crowd the plants in pots.
Choosing Succulents
In order to choose the best combination of succulents, it’s important to keep variety in mind. Choose plants of different sizes, heights, shapes, and colors. The largest variance for your succulent garden should be in the height, size, and shape of the plants. It’s best to choose around three different colors for the succulents and not many more than that, as too many colors can be overwhelming to the eye. Sticking to just a few colors creates consistency in your garden, yet provides flexibility in the choice of height, size, and types of plants you choose. Some gardening stores will have a variety of succulents planted in one large pot already, but be aware that these plants tend to be planted too close together to stay alive in that same pot long-term.
Potting
Because they have shallow roots, succulents can grow in just about anything you have around the house, from vintage canisters to decorative pots. Try coffee mugs, pots, jars, canisters, buckets, kettles, tin cans, glassware, or any other container that might add to your current space and style. Multiple plants can be placed in the same container in order to create the look of a garden—but be careful not to crowd the plants, as they will grow and need to be replanted in a larger container. If you don’t want to see the soil in the area surrounding the plant, place some decorative stones on top.
Soil
Fill the bottom of the container you choose with several inches of gravel, which allows the water to drain from the roots of the succulent plant after watering; succulent roots must be able to drain, otherwise the plant will die if the roots are moist all the time. On top of the gravel, fill the pot with cactus soil, or an equal mixture of sand and soil. Regular potting soil is too rich and holds too much moisture for succulents, so be sure to use a sandy soil, so that the water can drain properly. A proper mix should be available at your local nursery or home improvement store.
Heat and Light
Succulents and cacti plants like to be warm and dry, and they love the light. If you live someplace dark and gloomy most of the winter, ensure that you have some lights on for these plants, even if they are near a window. Be careful, however, not to place them near windows that get too much sun, such as south-facing windows. While succulents can handle cold weather and lack of sun for periods of time, the light and warmth make them happiest.
Water and Routine Care
Succulents do not need a ton of water to survive, but they must be watered properly. They have shallow roots that should dry between each watering — they will absorb the water they need and the rest can drain out of the bottom, if there’s a hole in the container, or pass through the gravel at the bottom. Because of this, put emphasis on watering them thoroughly as opposed to frequently. Note that if you do over-water them, they will plump up and look healthy before turning sickly.
All succulents will grow to larger sizes and will need to be re-potted from time to time. Be sure not to crowd the plants in pots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Summer can be an ideal season in many of our gardens. However, even the hardiest, drought tolerant plants – including succulents – will benefit greatly from a small amount of added care in the hot days ahead.
Whether your succulents are in containers or in the ground, here are some summer care tips and techniques to help keep your collection looking its best all season long.
Watering
The majority of succulents are NOT desert plants. Almost all need some water year round. In general, water in-ground plants every 10 days to two weeks. More frequent watering is needed for container-planted succulents. The smaller the container, the more frequent the need for water. Succulents in the 2-inch (5 cm) pots found in many nurseries need water almost every other day. In general, based on the container size and its location, water container succulent gardens once a week.
Remember that black plastic nursery pots significantly increase heat around the plant’s root zone and the need for water. That’s why it’s wise to remove your succulents from those containers and plant them into the ground or a more hospitable container.
Water early in the day to allow the plants to dry off to prevent rotting and sunburn. (More on both below.) And never allow succulent containers to sit in water.
Sun Exposure
Because most are NOT desert plants, succulents in containers will not appreciate a south-facing location in direct summer sun, especially if your garden is in an inland microclimate. When shopping for succulents at a nursery, you’ll notice that most are displayed under light shade cloth. At home, locate container succulents in dappled shade on south and west-facing exposures and in full sun on north and east exposures. Remember, plants in the sunniest areas will require a bit more water.
If you do plan on putting succulents in an area that receives strong summer sun, be sure to acclimatize them gradually or else the leaves will sunburn. These large white, brown or black patches of sunburn cannot be reversed.
If plants start to ‘stretch’ out towards the sun and become leggy, they likely need more sun than they are getting. Move them if possible to a sunnier site.
Rosette-form succulents like Aeoniums and Echeverias that become leggy can be “beheaded” now to allow propagation of the head possible new growth of plants along the stem. Suspend the cut head on the edges of an empty flower pot, stem side down, put it in a shady spot and in a few weeks, you will see tiny root hairs on the stem. Then just plant in a good quality succulent mix.
Pests
Succulents are bothered by few pests, but those can be annoying, unsightly and sometimes destructive. Among the most common are mites, mealy bugs, snails, birds and rodents. Birds and rodents find healthy succulents to be a good source of water especially during very dry periods. Snails love the tender new growth. These pests can be deterred by exclusion or repellants. Bird netting is a good choice if the majority of your plants are in one area.
Mealy bugs are the most common succulent pest. They resemble small white fluff balls, sometimes under the pot rim or at the base of the plants. They can be hosed them off, manually removed, or killed with an application of insecticidal soap. Also, check plant roots as there are root mealy bugs too.
Distorted leaves may mean a plant is infested with spider mites, the second most common pest of succulents.
Some Good Things to Know
Keep the area around succulents, especially rosette forms, free of built up mulch, leaf debris and anything that might hold moisture next to the base of the plant. A wet crown will lead to rotting and also attract snails. Overwatering also can cause rotting, especially if there’s a series of cloudy cool days.
Warmer weather causes rapid evaporation. Check your container plants for white salts buildup on the sides and bottoms of pots. Remove it with a brush.
Most succulents do well inside during the summer; just don’t put them too close to a window that gets a lot of sun. Water only when the soil is dry.
“Low care” doesn’t mean “no care”. Check on the condition of your succulents regularly to prevent or correct many of the things that keep them from looking their best.
Some succulents are winter growers and may appear ailing or dead during summer months when they are dormant. Winter growers include Senecios, Kalanchoes and Dudleyas. Avoid excessive watering for these three – especially California native Dudleyas. For the majority of the succulent family, early summer is a good time to take cuttings and start propagation. Many varieties will come into flower and hummingbirds are attracted to their tubular shaped blossoms.
Whether your succulents are in containers or in the ground, here are some summer care tips and techniques to help keep your collection looking its best all season long.
Watering
The majority of succulents are NOT desert plants. Almost all need some water year round. In general, water in-ground plants every 10 days to two weeks. More frequent watering is needed for container-planted succulents. The smaller the container, the more frequent the need for water. Succulents in the 2-inch (5 cm) pots found in many nurseries need water almost every other day. In general, based on the container size and its location, water container succulent gardens once a week.
Remember that black plastic nursery pots significantly increase heat around the plant’s root zone and the need for water. That’s why it’s wise to remove your succulents from those containers and plant them into the ground or a more hospitable container.
Water early in the day to allow the plants to dry off to prevent rotting and sunburn. (More on both below.) And never allow succulent containers to sit in water.
Sun Exposure
Because most are NOT desert plants, succulents in containers will not appreciate a south-facing location in direct summer sun, especially if your garden is in an inland microclimate. When shopping for succulents at a nursery, you’ll notice that most are displayed under light shade cloth. At home, locate container succulents in dappled shade on south and west-facing exposures and in full sun on north and east exposures. Remember, plants in the sunniest areas will require a bit more water.
If you do plan on putting succulents in an area that receives strong summer sun, be sure to acclimatize them gradually or else the leaves will sunburn. These large white, brown or black patches of sunburn cannot be reversed.
If plants start to ‘stretch’ out towards the sun and become leggy, they likely need more sun than they are getting. Move them if possible to a sunnier site.
Rosette-form succulents like Aeoniums and Echeverias that become leggy can be “beheaded” now to allow propagation of the head possible new growth of plants along the stem. Suspend the cut head on the edges of an empty flower pot, stem side down, put it in a shady spot and in a few weeks, you will see tiny root hairs on the stem. Then just plant in a good quality succulent mix.
Pests
Succulents are bothered by few pests, but those can be annoying, unsightly and sometimes destructive. Among the most common are mites, mealy bugs, snails, birds and rodents. Birds and rodents find healthy succulents to be a good source of water especially during very dry periods. Snails love the tender new growth. These pests can be deterred by exclusion or repellants. Bird netting is a good choice if the majority of your plants are in one area.
Mealy bugs are the most common succulent pest. They resemble small white fluff balls, sometimes under the pot rim or at the base of the plants. They can be hosed them off, manually removed, or killed with an application of insecticidal soap. Also, check plant roots as there are root mealy bugs too.
Distorted leaves may mean a plant is infested with spider mites, the second most common pest of succulents.
Some Good Things to Know
Keep the area around succulents, especially rosette forms, free of built up mulch, leaf debris and anything that might hold moisture next to the base of the plant. A wet crown will lead to rotting and also attract snails. Overwatering also can cause rotting, especially if there’s a series of cloudy cool days.
Warmer weather causes rapid evaporation. Check your container plants for white salts buildup on the sides and bottoms of pots. Remove it with a brush.
Most succulents do well inside during the summer; just don’t put them too close to a window that gets a lot of sun. Water only when the soil is dry.
“Low care” doesn’t mean “no care”. Check on the condition of your succulents regularly to prevent or correct many of the things that keep them from looking their best.
Some succulents are winter growers and may appear ailing or dead during summer months when they are dormant. Winter growers include Senecios, Kalanchoes and Dudleyas. Avoid excessive watering for these three – especially California native Dudleyas. For the majority of the succulent family, early summer is a good time to take cuttings and start propagation. Many varieties will come into flower and hummingbirds are attracted to their tubular shaped blossoms.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Alluaudia is a genus of flowering plants in the family Didiereaceae. There are six species, all endemic to Madagascar. Most occur in the southwestern subarid forest-thicket vegetation of the island.
Several of the species are grown as indoor ornamental plants in specialist succulent collections. Spines are arranged around the leaves as a defense against herbivores. The development of these plants is columnar, they grow aiming high with a scarce lateral development. This plants in the autumn assumes a green colouring.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Alluaudias are succulent plants and need full sun or high interior lighting with a very well drained soil mix and freely circulating air. Plants are watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. If fertilizer is used, it should be diluted to ¼ the recommended rate on the label. Alluaudias must be protected in the greenhouse over the winter but established plants should tolerate temperatures as low as 32° F (0° C). During the winter months, the plants will drop all of its leaves and no water should be given during this period. If planted in the landscape however, it will often drop all its leaves when it decides to take a rest. When this happens, cut down on the watering until the leaves start to appear again.
Propagation
Alluaudias are propagated from cuttings taken in the spring or from seed when available.
Several of the species are grown as indoor ornamental plants in specialist succulent collections. Spines are arranged around the leaves as a defense against herbivores. The development of these plants is columnar, they grow aiming high with a scarce lateral development. This plants in the autumn assumes a green colouring.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Alluaudias are succulent plants and need full sun or high interior lighting with a very well drained soil mix and freely circulating air. Plants are watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. If fertilizer is used, it should be diluted to ¼ the recommended rate on the label. Alluaudias must be protected in the greenhouse over the winter but established plants should tolerate temperatures as low as 32° F (0° C). During the winter months, the plants will drop all of its leaves and no water should be given during this period. If planted in the landscape however, it will often drop all its leaves when it decides to take a rest. When this happens, cut down on the watering until the leaves start to appear again.
Propagation
Alluaudias are propagated from cuttings taken in the spring or from seed when available.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Aloinopsis is a genus of ice plants. They occurs mostly in the Eastern and Western Cape Provinces of South Africa, extending slightly into the southern part of the Northern Cape Province. One species is found in the northeastern corner of the Northern Cape Province. Rainfall is sparse throughout the range. Many species have rough-surfaced, spoon-shaped leaves that grow in small rosettes. The roots are thick and the flowers are often striped with red. Aloinopsis are sometimes confused with Titanopsis, but the genus Titanopsis lack striped flowers.
Aloinopsis are popular among collectors. They are winter growers and need plenty of light. Most are somewhat to extremely cold hardy and bloom in the winter. The flowers are mostly yellow to pink, fragrant, and open in the afternoon, closing after dark.
Growing Conditions
Light: A sunny position brings out the best colors. It should be protected from too much exposure in summer.
Water: Remember not to over-water in the summer when they’re taking their rest. During the winter months, water only when the soil becomes completely dry. Wet soil quickly causes root and stem rot.
Temperature: Aloinopsis will survive mild frost if kept dry. They can tolerate down to about 23 degrees Fahrenheit (-5 degrees Celsius).
Soil: They prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage.
Fertilizer: They should be fertilized only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer.
Propagation
Aloinopsis are propagated by seed or division.
Pests and Problems
Unfortunately, they are prone to red spider mites, and root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Aloinopsis can be cultivated in the ground or in a container. They will grow in the cooler parts of the year, and flower in winter if it gets good light (direct sunlight is essential to bloom well). Aloinopsis is probably dormant in summer, so it is usually recommended not to water much in summer. Don’t be surprised if they doesn’t grow at that time, but although Aloinopsis are better treated as winter growers they will grow anyway in summer, if given water.
Aloinopsis are popular among collectors. They are winter growers and need plenty of light. Most are somewhat to extremely cold hardy and bloom in the winter. The flowers are mostly yellow to pink, fragrant, and open in the afternoon, closing after dark.
Growing Conditions
Light: A sunny position brings out the best colors. It should be protected from too much exposure in summer.
Water: Remember not to over-water in the summer when they’re taking their rest. During the winter months, water only when the soil becomes completely dry. Wet soil quickly causes root and stem rot.
Temperature: Aloinopsis will survive mild frost if kept dry. They can tolerate down to about 23 degrees Fahrenheit (-5 degrees Celsius).
Soil: They prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage.
Fertilizer: They should be fertilized only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer.
Propagation
Aloinopsis are propagated by seed or division.
Pests and Problems
Unfortunately, they are prone to red spider mites, and root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Aloinopsis can be cultivated in the ground or in a container. They will grow in the cooler parts of the year, and flower in winter if it gets good light (direct sunlight is essential to bloom well). Aloinopsis is probably dormant in summer, so it is usually recommended not to water much in summer. Don’t be surprised if they doesn’t grow at that time, but although Aloinopsis are better treated as winter growers they will grow anyway in summer, if given water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Are you one of those people who hangs his head in shame whenever we tout succulents as the easiest plants to grow? You’re not alone, trust me. Succulents, plants adapted to survive long periods with very little water, play by their own rule book. Here are some tips to help you keep your babies alive.
1. Give Them Breathing Room
While there are a few succulent types that do well indoors (including Aloe and Kalanchoe), the vast majority of these plants hail from warm, arid climates and depend on good air circulation to breathe. So while that succulent terrarium looks adorable, forget about it. You’ll have way more luck keeping your plants outdoors, exposed to the elements.
2. Provide Some Shade
Despite widespread belief, most succulents do not thrive if blasted with the hottest temps and the fullest sun exposure. While they appreciate a lot of light (and very few survive in full shade), most succulents need sun protection, especially if the temperature hits the 90-degree-mark, or if they’re small. Varieties that are solid green, pale, or variegated are most in danger of sun burn. If you are planning to blast your plants with the brightest sun possible, opt for plants that are red, gray, blue, or covered densely with spines (which help to reflect the sun’s rays).
3. Start with the Right Soil
Use a fast-draining cactus mix. Or, if you’re of the DIY persuasion, amend a traditional potting soil with coarse perlite, crushed lava, or pumice. A good recipe is one part amendment and four parts potting mix.
4. Low-water isn’t No-water
Perhaps you’ve killed your succulents by overwatering them (far more common than under-watering) which causes rot. But maybe you’ve already gotten the memo, are diligently dehydrating your plants, and wonder why they are dying. Well, newsflash—they need some water. Succulents like it when soil approaches dry before being watered. But what does this mean, you ask? It means you’ll likely be a-ok if, during dry times, if you water small pots about once a week and large pots about every two weeks.
5. Include Drainage
Remember—succulent roots hate excess water. Be sure there’s drainage in your container. Ok, ok—you’ve caught me in a lie. We sometimes create pretty centerpieces in pots with no drainage. But listen—you’ve got to water these compositions especially lightly. And you have to follow all of the other rules.
6. Succulents Need Food, Too
A once-yearly feeding is enough. Use any well-balanced organic fertilizer, cut the dose in half, and feed at the beginning of the plant’s growing season for best results.
7. Rethink Propagation
While you might be accustomed to plucking a stem of your favorite geranium, rosemary bush, or houseplant and dunking it in water to watch roots grow, that won’t work for propagating succulents. You can actually practice the exact opposite method. When you’ve got a plant you like, pluck a stem and let it dry out in the shade for at least 3 days. This process, known as healing, helps form a callus, preventing rot. Place your new stem in the soil mix mentioned above, and you should be good to go.
8. Beware of Frost
While some succulents, including certain types of Sedum and Sempervivum, can withstand freezing temps, most cannot. When in doubt, assume that any drop below freezing will call damage or death to your plant. The easiest solution for frost protection is to keep plants in containers that are light enough to move indoors or under awnings when a cold snap is predicted. Also, unlike the rest of your garden, succulents actually have a greater chance of survival if they’re dry before a cold snap, not wet.
1. Give Them Breathing Room
While there are a few succulent types that do well indoors (including Aloe and Kalanchoe), the vast majority of these plants hail from warm, arid climates and depend on good air circulation to breathe. So while that succulent terrarium looks adorable, forget about it. You’ll have way more luck keeping your plants outdoors, exposed to the elements.
2. Provide Some Shade
Despite widespread belief, most succulents do not thrive if blasted with the hottest temps and the fullest sun exposure. While they appreciate a lot of light (and very few survive in full shade), most succulents need sun protection, especially if the temperature hits the 90-degree-mark, or if they’re small. Varieties that are solid green, pale, or variegated are most in danger of sun burn. If you are planning to blast your plants with the brightest sun possible, opt for plants that are red, gray, blue, or covered densely with spines (which help to reflect the sun’s rays).
3. Start with the Right Soil
Use a fast-draining cactus mix. Or, if you’re of the DIY persuasion, amend a traditional potting soil with coarse perlite, crushed lava, or pumice. A good recipe is one part amendment and four parts potting mix.
4. Low-water isn’t No-water
Perhaps you’ve killed your succulents by overwatering them (far more common than under-watering) which causes rot. But maybe you’ve already gotten the memo, are diligently dehydrating your plants, and wonder why they are dying. Well, newsflash—they need some water. Succulents like it when soil approaches dry before being watered. But what does this mean, you ask? It means you’ll likely be a-ok if, during dry times, if you water small pots about once a week and large pots about every two weeks.
5. Include Drainage
Remember—succulent roots hate excess water. Be sure there’s drainage in your container. Ok, ok—you’ve caught me in a lie. We sometimes create pretty centerpieces in pots with no drainage. But listen—you’ve got to water these compositions especially lightly. And you have to follow all of the other rules.
6. Succulents Need Food, Too
A once-yearly feeding is enough. Use any well-balanced organic fertilizer, cut the dose in half, and feed at the beginning of the plant’s growing season for best results.
7. Rethink Propagation
While you might be accustomed to plucking a stem of your favorite geranium, rosemary bush, or houseplant and dunking it in water to watch roots grow, that won’t work for propagating succulents. You can actually practice the exact opposite method. When you’ve got a plant you like, pluck a stem and let it dry out in the shade for at least 3 days. This process, known as healing, helps form a callus, preventing rot. Place your new stem in the soil mix mentioned above, and you should be good to go.
8. Beware of Frost
While some succulents, including certain types of Sedum and Sempervivum, can withstand freezing temps, most cannot. When in doubt, assume that any drop below freezing will call damage or death to your plant. The easiest solution for frost protection is to keep plants in containers that are light enough to move indoors or under awnings when a cold snap is predicted. Also, unlike the rest of your garden, succulents actually have a greater chance of survival if they’re dry before a cold snap, not wet.
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