文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
LIGHT: Abutilons bloom freely provided they receive 6-8 hours of direct sun. A south-facing window is usually ideal.
TEMPERATURE: Day and night temperatures above 65°F are fine year round. Avoid putting plants in the path of cold drafts.
WATERING: Water when the top ½ inch of the potting mix is dry to the touch.
FERTILIZER: Feed every 2 weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (such as 20-20-20) mixed at ½ strength. A fertilizer designed to promote blossoms (formula 10-30-20) may be used instead..
CONTINUING CARE: Abutilons are vigorous growers. To keep your plant compact and bushy, prune back long stems with pruning shears, cutting just beyond the point where a leaf joins a stem. Prune just enough to give a pleasing overall shape; if you remove too much growth, you may prevent the plant from setting flower buds. Repot your plant into a slightly larger pot in spring.
PROBLEM: If pests appear, flush plant with water to wash them off; if they persist, spray with insecticidal soap.
Growing Standards: A standard is a woody plant trained to a long, single stem. The stem is crowned with a round head of foliage and flowers. This arrangement is beautiful but also unnatural, requiring a bit of effort on the part of the gardener to prevent gravity and the unrepressed inclinations of the plant from undoing the horticulturist's handiwork.
Staking a Standard: To keep your standard standing, put it out of reach of strong winds and support it with a stake that has a diameter at least as large as the stem's and long enough that when plunged into the pot or the ground it just reaches inside the head. Fasten the standard to the stake at several points with garden twine or green plastic tie tape looped in a figure-eight around stem and stake. Check the ties periodically during the growing season and loosen them if they constrict the outward growth of the stem.
Pruning, fertilizing, and repotting: Maintain the shape of the head with selective pinching of the new shoots (overzealous pinching will prevent the formation of flower buds). Pinch each shoot between thumb and forefinger or cut with pruning shears. Do not shear the plant as though it were a hedge. Fertilize standards grown in pots as you would other pot-grown plants. If you find that a standard in a container dries out quickly after watering, the plant probably needs a larger pot. Lift it from its current pot, make four deep vertical cuts in the root ball, and place it in a new pot that is 2in wider and taller than the old one, filling in around the root ball with fresh potting mix. Water thoroughly after repotting.
Overwintering a standard: Most standards require special care to overwinter. In cold winter climates, bring standards of Abutilon, Anisodontea, Fuchsia, Heliotrope, Lantana, and Rosemary indoors before frost and place them in an east- or west-facing window in a cool room. Water just enough to keep plants from drying out completely, and do not fertilize while plants are in this not-quite-dormant period. Set back outdoors in spring when nighttime temperatures remain consistently above 55°F.to bloom too early.
TEMPERATURE: Day and night temperatures above 65°F are fine year round. Avoid putting plants in the path of cold drafts.
WATERING: Water when the top ½ inch of the potting mix is dry to the touch.
FERTILIZER: Feed every 2 weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (such as 20-20-20) mixed at ½ strength. A fertilizer designed to promote blossoms (formula 10-30-20) may be used instead..
CONTINUING CARE: Abutilons are vigorous growers. To keep your plant compact and bushy, prune back long stems with pruning shears, cutting just beyond the point where a leaf joins a stem. Prune just enough to give a pleasing overall shape; if you remove too much growth, you may prevent the plant from setting flower buds. Repot your plant into a slightly larger pot in spring.
PROBLEM: If pests appear, flush plant with water to wash them off; if they persist, spray with insecticidal soap.
Growing Standards: A standard is a woody plant trained to a long, single stem. The stem is crowned with a round head of foliage and flowers. This arrangement is beautiful but also unnatural, requiring a bit of effort on the part of the gardener to prevent gravity and the unrepressed inclinations of the plant from undoing the horticulturist's handiwork.
Staking a Standard: To keep your standard standing, put it out of reach of strong winds and support it with a stake that has a diameter at least as large as the stem's and long enough that when plunged into the pot or the ground it just reaches inside the head. Fasten the standard to the stake at several points with garden twine or green plastic tie tape looped in a figure-eight around stem and stake. Check the ties periodically during the growing season and loosen them if they constrict the outward growth of the stem.
Pruning, fertilizing, and repotting: Maintain the shape of the head with selective pinching of the new shoots (overzealous pinching will prevent the formation of flower buds). Pinch each shoot between thumb and forefinger or cut with pruning shears. Do not shear the plant as though it were a hedge. Fertilize standards grown in pots as you would other pot-grown plants. If you find that a standard in a container dries out quickly after watering, the plant probably needs a larger pot. Lift it from its current pot, make four deep vertical cuts in the root ball, and place it in a new pot that is 2in wider and taller than the old one, filling in around the root ball with fresh potting mix. Water thoroughly after repotting.
Overwintering a standard: Most standards require special care to overwinter. In cold winter climates, bring standards of Abutilon, Anisodontea, Fuchsia, Heliotrope, Lantana, and Rosemary indoors before frost and place them in an east- or west-facing window in a cool room. Water just enough to keep plants from drying out completely, and do not fertilize while plants are in this not-quite-dormant period. Set back outdoors in spring when nighttime temperatures remain consistently above 55°F.to bloom too early.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
While these notes focus on pests and diseases of cacti and succulents, incorrect cultural conditions are a major cause of poor growth or loss of house plants in general. The single commonest cultural problem is over-watering, with the roots left wet for excessively long periods resulting in rotting. Other growth problems are related to insufficient light and too low or high a temperature. Most cacti and succulents are expected to flower when they reach the mature size, or even before, and failure to flower may indicate unsatisfactory growing conditions.
Over-watering
This is probably the single most common cause of failure of succulent plants to thrive. The plant may appear to do well at first, its leaves plump up and new growth produced. However, the roots may be suffering in wet soil and begin to rot unseen. The plant still looks well as the few remaining roots are able to take up sufficient of the plentiful water. As the roots continue to die in the stagnant soil, a point is reached at which they are unable to supply sufficient water and the plant appears to be suffering from lack of water. If more water is supplied, the situation gets worse and the rot may spread upwards into the basal stems or plant body. Eventually the plant body is observed to be soft and discoloured, perhaps yellow or grayish, by which time it is usually too late to save it. The moral is, that if a plant appears to be failing to take up water, knock it out of its pot and examine the condition of the roots before supplying more water.
Other reasons for loss of roots include pest damage and dormancy. Watering a succulent plant at the wrong time of year when it is dormant can cause rotting as effectively as can also happen if the roots have been eaten by insect pests.
Under-watering
If unsufficient water is provided for the prevailing temperature and stage in the growth cycle, leafy succulents stop growing and may shed their leaves and the apical tip of stems may die. This is followed by die-back or self-pruning of stems and branches. Cacti may shrink back into the potting mixture and possibly take on a reddish or purple hue because of production of coloured stress pigments. In some cases, shrinkage of a cactus during drought produces irreversible folds in the plant body which never fill out again. However, careful watering usually reverses the effects of drought on succulent plants. Small amounts of water should be given to water-starved plants at first, in case some of the roots have been lost.
Poor light more about light and lighting
Natural sunlight is the best way of illuminating your plants, many of which are native to arid hillsides under scorchingly bright sunlight. Succulent plants kept with insufficient light grow with pale or yellow sometimes stunted leaves and elongated relatively thin stems with long spaces between the leaf joints. This is known as etiolation. Cacti become soft and elongated with weak spination. The condition can generally be reversed by providing stronger light, although elongated growth in cacti will always remain as a record of the change in growing conditions. Succulent plants can often be pruned to restore their shape.
Cacti and some succulents will not usually become etiolated in dark conditions if kept cool and absolutely dry, and some growers allow their plants to become dormant for winter storage.
Scorch and heat damage
Scorch can affect succulent plants if there is a sudden period of sunshine after the dark winter days, or even after a prolonged cloudy period during the summer. Sunken brown or white patches develop down one side of a plant where the tissues have effectively been "cooked" and the green chlorophyll destroyed. Sometimes a glasshouse plant loses all its green pigment through excessive heat alone, even though it may not have been in the direct sunlight.
Scorching can be avoided by the timely application of shading to the greenhouse, improved ventilation and air circulation within the growing area to even out air temperatures. When moving plants into direct sunlight, or putting them outside for the summer, harden them off gradually in diffuse sunlight or put them under mesh shading for a few days to acclimatise.
Cold damage
Although many cacti and succulents are surprisingly cold-hardy if kept absolutely dry during the winter, some species from perpetually tropical climates (e.g. Madagascar) can suffer damage to the soft tissues at their growing points, and scarring and collapse of their stems leading to fungal attack and death of the tissues. The only solution is to maintain higher temperatures for susceptible plants.
Some species such as Echincactus grusonii which are otherwise easy to grow, can develop unsightly brown marks which spoil a specimen plant, if temperatures are too low.
Over-watering
This is probably the single most common cause of failure of succulent plants to thrive. The plant may appear to do well at first, its leaves plump up and new growth produced. However, the roots may be suffering in wet soil and begin to rot unseen. The plant still looks well as the few remaining roots are able to take up sufficient of the plentiful water. As the roots continue to die in the stagnant soil, a point is reached at which they are unable to supply sufficient water and the plant appears to be suffering from lack of water. If more water is supplied, the situation gets worse and the rot may spread upwards into the basal stems or plant body. Eventually the plant body is observed to be soft and discoloured, perhaps yellow or grayish, by which time it is usually too late to save it. The moral is, that if a plant appears to be failing to take up water, knock it out of its pot and examine the condition of the roots before supplying more water.
Other reasons for loss of roots include pest damage and dormancy. Watering a succulent plant at the wrong time of year when it is dormant can cause rotting as effectively as can also happen if the roots have been eaten by insect pests.
Under-watering
If unsufficient water is provided for the prevailing temperature and stage in the growth cycle, leafy succulents stop growing and may shed their leaves and the apical tip of stems may die. This is followed by die-back or self-pruning of stems and branches. Cacti may shrink back into the potting mixture and possibly take on a reddish or purple hue because of production of coloured stress pigments. In some cases, shrinkage of a cactus during drought produces irreversible folds in the plant body which never fill out again. However, careful watering usually reverses the effects of drought on succulent plants. Small amounts of water should be given to water-starved plants at first, in case some of the roots have been lost.
Poor light more about light and lighting
Natural sunlight is the best way of illuminating your plants, many of which are native to arid hillsides under scorchingly bright sunlight. Succulent plants kept with insufficient light grow with pale or yellow sometimes stunted leaves and elongated relatively thin stems with long spaces between the leaf joints. This is known as etiolation. Cacti become soft and elongated with weak spination. The condition can generally be reversed by providing stronger light, although elongated growth in cacti will always remain as a record of the change in growing conditions. Succulent plants can often be pruned to restore their shape.
Cacti and some succulents will not usually become etiolated in dark conditions if kept cool and absolutely dry, and some growers allow their plants to become dormant for winter storage.
Scorch and heat damage
Scorch can affect succulent plants if there is a sudden period of sunshine after the dark winter days, or even after a prolonged cloudy period during the summer. Sunken brown or white patches develop down one side of a plant where the tissues have effectively been "cooked" and the green chlorophyll destroyed. Sometimes a glasshouse plant loses all its green pigment through excessive heat alone, even though it may not have been in the direct sunlight.
Scorching can be avoided by the timely application of shading to the greenhouse, improved ventilation and air circulation within the growing area to even out air temperatures. When moving plants into direct sunlight, or putting them outside for the summer, harden them off gradually in diffuse sunlight or put them under mesh shading for a few days to acclimatise.
Cold damage
Although many cacti and succulents are surprisingly cold-hardy if kept absolutely dry during the winter, some species from perpetually tropical climates (e.g. Madagascar) can suffer damage to the soft tissues at their growing points, and scarring and collapse of their stems leading to fungal attack and death of the tissues. The only solution is to maintain higher temperatures for susceptible plants.
Some species such as Echincactus grusonii which are otherwise easy to grow, can develop unsightly brown marks which spoil a specimen plant, if temperatures are too low.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
A range of fungal and bacterial diseases affect succulent plants, some of which can collapse and die very rapidly, once the disease has taken a hold. The world abounds with fungal spores, which are opportunists, waiting for the correct conditions for germination. Generally, fungi do not affect cactus and succulent plant collections because of the relatively dry conditions used by most growers. Damp conditions are a universal requirement for activation of fungal spores, and many of the problems with fungal infection of succulent plants arise from failure of excessive watering or condensation to evaporate, because of unexpected or seasonal cold weather. Damage from insect pests, which penetrate the plant's epidermis to feed on sap, may provide a route for entry of fungi into the nutrient-rich inner tissues. Hence, unexpected collapse of a plant is often the final symptom of a mealy bug infestation which has gone unnoticed. On the other hand, some fungi provide their own mechanisms for penetrating the epidermis.
Seedlings are especially susceptible to fungal attack of the lower stem which causes damping off. Once the seedling has wilted, it is usually too late to save it and preventative measure are a better option.
Aloe rust
is a fungus that causes round brown or black spots on leaves of Aloes and Gasterias. It is of some importance in commercial cultivation of Aloe vera. The black colour is caused by oxidation of phenolic substances in the sap which seals of the affected area. Once formed, the black spots are permanent and can be unsightly, but do not usually spread. Fungi can be discouraged by spraying with a systemic fungicide, but prevention is the best option. Do not allow water to lie on the leaves for long and avoid excess damp in cool weather. Arrange for plenty of air circulation and sunlight.
Black or Sooty Mold
A ubiquitous fungus which is often seen on plants covered with honeydew from whitefly, mealy bugs etc or on plants with nectar-producing glands such as certain Ferocacti. Generally, sooty mould is more unsightly than harmful on otherwise healthy plants. However, it will attack seedlings following mechanical damage or excessively wet conditions and other weak or damaged plants.
Basal Stem Rot
Cold or damp conditions may lead to rotting of stems, often just around the soil level where damp soil may be in prolonged contact with the plants stem. The rotten tissues may go black or reddish brown depending on the plant and organism attacking it. If the stem is cut well above the rotten part, it may be possible to re-root or graft the healthy tissues and save the plant. Many people support the basal stems of difficult plants with a layer of grit above the potting medium, so that there will be little water retention against the stem in this critical region.
A range of brown or gray spots spots on leaves and corky brown marks on stems of are undoubtably due to fungal attack following damage or prolonged contact with drops of water. Others may reflect poor cultural conditions or the natural development of corky or woody stems as the plant matures. In many cases, fungal attack and poor culture are linked. Improving ventilation, temperature control, watering and application of fertiliser may help to prevent all sorts of problems.
Growers of Asclepiads will be familiar with black spots developing on the stem which spread and develop into sunken patches of dead tissues. This fungal infection can spread to the whole plant unless the affected part is removed promptly or treated with fungicide. Usually this happens after overal-liberal water, perhaps where water droplets fail to evaporate because of unexpectedly cold conditions.
Control of Fungal Diseases
Once a plant has collapsed or the stems have started to become soft and rotten it is often too late to save it. However, an attempt may be made to save part of a valuable plant by cutting away the infected tissues with a clean knife, sterilised with methylated spirits. A wide margin of apparently sound tissue should be removed as the infection will almost certainly have spread further than is apparent. The remainder can be painted or dipped in a systemic fungicide such as Nimrod T or dusted with sulphur and rooted as a cutting or grafted onto a compatible stock.
Botrytis or damping off
This common cause of early loss of seedlings can be avoided by lightly spraying the potting mix with a systemic fungicide such as Benlate or Nimrod T. Spraying with a copper sulfate solution is a traditional remedy, but copper fungicides may accumulate in the soil with potential copper toxicity to plants. Any seedlings that become infected should be removed promptly before more spores are produced, the remaining seedlings sprayed with fungicide and surface moisture alllowed to evaporate.
Seedlings are especially susceptible to fungal attack of the lower stem which causes damping off. Once the seedling has wilted, it is usually too late to save it and preventative measure are a better option.
Aloe rust
is a fungus that causes round brown or black spots on leaves of Aloes and Gasterias. It is of some importance in commercial cultivation of Aloe vera. The black colour is caused by oxidation of phenolic substances in the sap which seals of the affected area. Once formed, the black spots are permanent and can be unsightly, but do not usually spread. Fungi can be discouraged by spraying with a systemic fungicide, but prevention is the best option. Do not allow water to lie on the leaves for long and avoid excess damp in cool weather. Arrange for plenty of air circulation and sunlight.
Black or Sooty Mold
A ubiquitous fungus which is often seen on plants covered with honeydew from whitefly, mealy bugs etc or on plants with nectar-producing glands such as certain Ferocacti. Generally, sooty mould is more unsightly than harmful on otherwise healthy plants. However, it will attack seedlings following mechanical damage or excessively wet conditions and other weak or damaged plants.
Basal Stem Rot
Cold or damp conditions may lead to rotting of stems, often just around the soil level where damp soil may be in prolonged contact with the plants stem. The rotten tissues may go black or reddish brown depending on the plant and organism attacking it. If the stem is cut well above the rotten part, it may be possible to re-root or graft the healthy tissues and save the plant. Many people support the basal stems of difficult plants with a layer of grit above the potting medium, so that there will be little water retention against the stem in this critical region.
A range of brown or gray spots spots on leaves and corky brown marks on stems of are undoubtably due to fungal attack following damage or prolonged contact with drops of water. Others may reflect poor cultural conditions or the natural development of corky or woody stems as the plant matures. In many cases, fungal attack and poor culture are linked. Improving ventilation, temperature control, watering and application of fertiliser may help to prevent all sorts of problems.
Growers of Asclepiads will be familiar with black spots developing on the stem which spread and develop into sunken patches of dead tissues. This fungal infection can spread to the whole plant unless the affected part is removed promptly or treated with fungicide. Usually this happens after overal-liberal water, perhaps where water droplets fail to evaporate because of unexpectedly cold conditions.
Control of Fungal Diseases
Once a plant has collapsed or the stems have started to become soft and rotten it is often too late to save it. However, an attempt may be made to save part of a valuable plant by cutting away the infected tissues with a clean knife, sterilised with methylated spirits. A wide margin of apparently sound tissue should be removed as the infection will almost certainly have spread further than is apparent. The remainder can be painted or dipped in a systemic fungicide such as Nimrod T or dusted with sulphur and rooted as a cutting or grafted onto a compatible stock.
Botrytis or damping off
This common cause of early loss of seedlings can be avoided by lightly spraying the potting mix with a systemic fungicide such as Benlate or Nimrod T. Spraying with a copper sulfate solution is a traditional remedy, but copper fungicides may accumulate in the soil with potential copper toxicity to plants. Any seedlings that become infected should be removed promptly before more spores are produced, the remaining seedlings sprayed with fungicide and surface moisture alllowed to evaporate.
2
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
Quarantine
When new succulent plants are aquired, it is a good idea to keep them separate from the rest of the collection for a few weeks so that obvious pests can be spotted. This allows time for eggs of pests to hatch and the progeny dealt with. A good way to do this is to maintain a "quarantine" window ledge separate from other plants. Many growers repot newly aquired plants into their favourite growing medium, and this is a good occasion to examine the general condition of the roots and check for pests such as root mealy bugs.
It may seem over-cautious, but many people like to treat their new plant with systemic insecticide while re-potting. This doubtless helps to avoid introduction of new pests into the collection. Repotting with "sterilised" compost which has been heated sufficiently to kill insects, larvae and eggs is a good idea.
Inspection
A regular check on the condition of your succulent plants, perhaps while you are watering them, will help you to spot the early signs of pests and diseases which are best treated early before serious damage is done to the plants, or before they can spread through the collection. However, never assume that just one plant in a collection is affected. Pests may well have spread to other specimens nearby, even if you can not see them. Ants "farm" mealy bugs for their honeydew secretions and may help to spread them through the collection.
Also watch how well individual plants are growing. Poor growth, a sudden change in condition or a limp plant which fails to take up water can be a warning sign of damaged roots caused by e.g. root mealy bugs, vine weevil, or roots rotting as a result of over-watering.
HygieneCleanliness in the greenhouse is an important measure in preventing outbreaks of pests and diseases. Always remove dead leaves and flowers as soon as possible. Some growers like to remove flower stalks of e.g. Adromischus before they flower and drip nectar on the plants, potentiating moulds. Leaf litter provides an ideal hiding place for pests. If wet by watering, dead plant material is a breeding ground for fungi and production of their spores. Tidy up debris in the green house left from re-potting and propagation. Treatment of the ground under the staging, walkways and areas of paving with a disinfectant solution e.g. Jeyes Fluid is a smelly but effective traditional way of discouraging pests and diseases.
When new succulent plants are aquired, it is a good idea to keep them separate from the rest of the collection for a few weeks so that obvious pests can be spotted. This allows time for eggs of pests to hatch and the progeny dealt with. A good way to do this is to maintain a "quarantine" window ledge separate from other plants. Many growers repot newly aquired plants into their favourite growing medium, and this is a good occasion to examine the general condition of the roots and check for pests such as root mealy bugs.
It may seem over-cautious, but many people like to treat their new plant with systemic insecticide while re-potting. This doubtless helps to avoid introduction of new pests into the collection. Repotting with "sterilised" compost which has been heated sufficiently to kill insects, larvae and eggs is a good idea.
Inspection
A regular check on the condition of your succulent plants, perhaps while you are watering them, will help you to spot the early signs of pests and diseases which are best treated early before serious damage is done to the plants, or before they can spread through the collection. However, never assume that just one plant in a collection is affected. Pests may well have spread to other specimens nearby, even if you can not see them. Ants "farm" mealy bugs for their honeydew secretions and may help to spread them through the collection.
Also watch how well individual plants are growing. Poor growth, a sudden change in condition or a limp plant which fails to take up water can be a warning sign of damaged roots caused by e.g. root mealy bugs, vine weevil, or roots rotting as a result of over-watering.
HygieneCleanliness in the greenhouse is an important measure in preventing outbreaks of pests and diseases. Always remove dead leaves and flowers as soon as possible. Some growers like to remove flower stalks of e.g. Adromischus before they flower and drip nectar on the plants, potentiating moulds. Leaf litter provides an ideal hiding place for pests. If wet by watering, dead plant material is a breeding ground for fungi and production of their spores. Tidy up debris in the green house left from re-potting and propagation. Treatment of the ground under the staging, walkways and areas of paving with a disinfectant solution e.g. Jeyes Fluid is a smelly but effective traditional way of discouraging pests and diseases.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
These are also very common pests of cacti and succulents, but are found only on the roots of infested plants where they do considerable damage. This may lead to the plant rotting where the damage allows fungal or bacterial infections to enter the plant tissues. They produce powdery white or white fluffy deposits in the soil which may sometimes also be seen underneath the pot. Their general appearance is reminiscent of tiny pinkish-brown woodlice (2-3 mm long) in the soil and roots.
Control of root mealy bugs
Use regular applications (weekly for several weeks) of insecticide (read the label to find pests controlled, use and precautions) watered into the soil, or immerse the plant pot up to the top of the soil in a bucket of insecticide with a couple of drops of washing-up liquid to help wetting of the soil. The plant will need to be carefully dried out after a soaking, especially if treatment must be carried out in cold weather.
As a preventative measure, ground up moth balls added to the potting mix seem to discourage infestation by root mealy bug, and probably discourages other insects. However, the chemicals in the moth balls can cause damage to plastic plant pots and are best used with clay pots. ( NB. In the UK, chemicals must be used only as directed on the label: other use could be considered an offence. ) Root mealy bugs also seem to prefer peat-based mixtures to soil-based composts, although not exclusively.
Control of root mealy bugs
Use regular applications (weekly for several weeks) of insecticide (read the label to find pests controlled, use and precautions) watered into the soil, or immerse the plant pot up to the top of the soil in a bucket of insecticide with a couple of drops of washing-up liquid to help wetting of the soil. The plant will need to be carefully dried out after a soaking, especially if treatment must be carried out in cold weather.
As a preventative measure, ground up moth balls added to the potting mix seem to discourage infestation by root mealy bug, and probably discourages other insects. However, the chemicals in the moth balls can cause damage to plastic plant pots and are best used with clay pots. ( NB. In the UK, chemicals must be used only as directed on the label: other use could be considered an offence. ) Root mealy bugs also seem to prefer peat-based mixtures to soil-based composts, although not exclusively.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Iron chlorosis affects many kinds of plants and can be frustrating for a gardener. An iron deficiency in plants causes unsightly yellow leaves and eventually death. So it is important to correct iron chlorosis in plants. Let’s look at what does iron do for plants and how to fix systemic chlorosis in plants.
What Does Iron Do for Plants?
Iron is a nutrient that all plants need to function. Many of the vital functions of the plant, like enzyme and chlorophyll production, nitrogen fixing, and development and metabolism are all dependent on iron. Without iron, the plant simply cannot function as well as it should.
Symptoms for Iron Deficiency in Plants
The most obvious symptom of iron deficiency in plants is commonly called leaf chlorosis. This is where the leaves of the plant turn yellow, but the veins of the leaves stay green. Typically, leaf chlorosis will start at the tips of new growth in the plant and will eventually work its way to older leaves on the plant as the deficiency gets worse. Other signs can include poor growth and leaf loss, but these symptoms will always be coupled with the leaf chlorosis.
Fixing Iron Chlorosis in Plants
Rarely is an iron deficiency in plants caused by a lack of iron in the soil. Iron is typically abundant in the soil, but a variety of soil conditions can limit how well a plant can get to the iron in the soil. Iron chlorosis in plants is normally cause by one of four reasons. They are:
Soil pH is too high
Soil has too much clay
Compacted or overly wet soil
Too much phosphorus in the soil
Fixing Soil pH That Is Too High
Have your soil tested at your local extension service. If the soil pH is over 7, the soil pH is restricting the ability of the plant to get iron from the soil. You can learn more about lowering soil pH in this article.
Correcting Soil That Has Too Much Clay
Clay soil lacks organic material. The lack of organic material is actually the reason that a plant cannot get iron from clay soil. There are trace nutrients in organic material that the plant needs in order to take the iron into its roots. If clay soil is causing iron chlorosis, correcting an iron deficiency in plants means working in organic material like peat moss and compost into the soil.
Improving Compacted Or Overly Wet Soil
If your soil is compacted or too wet, the roots do not have enough air to properly take up enough iron for the plant.
If the soil is too wet, you will need to improve the drainage of the soil. If the soil is compacted, oftentimes it can be difficult to reverse this so other methods of getting iron to the plant is usually employed. If you are unable to correct the drainage or reverse compaction, you can use a chelated iron as either a foliar spray or a soil supplement. This will further increase the iron content available to the plant and counter the weakened ability of the plant to take up iron through its roots.
Reducing Phosphorus in the Soil
Too much phosphorus can block the uptake of iron by the plant and cause leaf chlorosis. Typically, this condition is caused by using a fertilizer that is too high in phosphorus. Use a fertilizer that is lower in phosphorus (the middle number) to help bring the soil back in balance.
What Does Iron Do for Plants?
Iron is a nutrient that all plants need to function. Many of the vital functions of the plant, like enzyme and chlorophyll production, nitrogen fixing, and development and metabolism are all dependent on iron. Without iron, the plant simply cannot function as well as it should.
Symptoms for Iron Deficiency in Plants
The most obvious symptom of iron deficiency in plants is commonly called leaf chlorosis. This is where the leaves of the plant turn yellow, but the veins of the leaves stay green. Typically, leaf chlorosis will start at the tips of new growth in the plant and will eventually work its way to older leaves on the plant as the deficiency gets worse. Other signs can include poor growth and leaf loss, but these symptoms will always be coupled with the leaf chlorosis.
Fixing Iron Chlorosis in Plants
Rarely is an iron deficiency in plants caused by a lack of iron in the soil. Iron is typically abundant in the soil, but a variety of soil conditions can limit how well a plant can get to the iron in the soil. Iron chlorosis in plants is normally cause by one of four reasons. They are:
Soil pH is too high
Soil has too much clay
Compacted or overly wet soil
Too much phosphorus in the soil
Fixing Soil pH That Is Too High
Have your soil tested at your local extension service. If the soil pH is over 7, the soil pH is restricting the ability of the plant to get iron from the soil. You can learn more about lowering soil pH in this article.
Correcting Soil That Has Too Much Clay
Clay soil lacks organic material. The lack of organic material is actually the reason that a plant cannot get iron from clay soil. There are trace nutrients in organic material that the plant needs in order to take the iron into its roots. If clay soil is causing iron chlorosis, correcting an iron deficiency in plants means working in organic material like peat moss and compost into the soil.
Improving Compacted Or Overly Wet Soil
If your soil is compacted or too wet, the roots do not have enough air to properly take up enough iron for the plant.
If the soil is too wet, you will need to improve the drainage of the soil. If the soil is compacted, oftentimes it can be difficult to reverse this so other methods of getting iron to the plant is usually employed. If you are unable to correct the drainage or reverse compaction, you can use a chelated iron as either a foliar spray or a soil supplement. This will further increase the iron content available to the plant and counter the weakened ability of the plant to take up iron through its roots.
Reducing Phosphorus in the Soil
Too much phosphorus can block the uptake of iron by the plant and cause leaf chlorosis. Typically, this condition is caused by using a fertilizer that is too high in phosphorus. Use a fertilizer that is lower in phosphorus (the middle number) to help bring the soil back in balance.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
When the weather suddenly skyrockets with temperatures above 85 F. (29 C.), many plants will inevitably suffer from ill effects. However, with adequate care of outdoor plants in extreme heat, the effects of heat stress on plants, including vegetables, can be minimized.
How Plants Cope with Heat
So how do plants cope with heat once temperatures begin to soar? While some plants, like succulents, are well equipped with handling heat by conserving water in their fleshy leaves, the majority of plants do not have this luxury. Therefore, they will normally suffer from the in heat some way or other. Generally, heat stress of a plant will show itself by wilting, which is a sure sign that water loss has taken place. If this is ignored, the condition will worsen, as the plants will eventually dry up, turning a crunchy brown before dying. In some cases, yellowing of the leaves may occur.
Heat stress of a plant can also be recognized by leaf drop, especially in trees. Many plants will actually shed some of their foliage in an attempt to conserve water. In excessively hot weather, many vegetable crops have difficulty producing. Plants like tomatoes, squash, peppers, melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, and beans will usually drop their blossoms in high temps, while cool-season crops, like broccoli, will bolt. Blossom end rot is also common during hot weather and most prevalent in tomatoes, peppers, and squash.
How to Care for Plants in Hot Weather
The care of plants and flowers in hot weather is pretty much the same with exception to container plants, or those that have been newly planted. Of course, additional watering is a given, with new and potted plants requiring even more irrigation. In addition to watering more often, mulching plants can help conserve moisture and keep plants cooler. The use of shade covers, especially on vegetable crops, may be helpful as well.
Container plants will require daily watering, even twice a day in high temperatures. These plants should be given a thorough soaking until water can be seen coming out from the drainage holes. Placing water granules in pots also helps. As these will gradually soak up excess water, in times of dryness, the granules will slowly release some of this water back into the soil. Moving potted plants to a shadier location during the heat of the day is also recommended.
How Plants Cope with Heat
So how do plants cope with heat once temperatures begin to soar? While some plants, like succulents, are well equipped with handling heat by conserving water in their fleshy leaves, the majority of plants do not have this luxury. Therefore, they will normally suffer from the in heat some way or other. Generally, heat stress of a plant will show itself by wilting, which is a sure sign that water loss has taken place. If this is ignored, the condition will worsen, as the plants will eventually dry up, turning a crunchy brown before dying. In some cases, yellowing of the leaves may occur.
Heat stress of a plant can also be recognized by leaf drop, especially in trees. Many plants will actually shed some of their foliage in an attempt to conserve water. In excessively hot weather, many vegetable crops have difficulty producing. Plants like tomatoes, squash, peppers, melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, and beans will usually drop their blossoms in high temps, while cool-season crops, like broccoli, will bolt. Blossom end rot is also common during hot weather and most prevalent in tomatoes, peppers, and squash.
How to Care for Plants in Hot Weather
The care of plants and flowers in hot weather is pretty much the same with exception to container plants, or those that have been newly planted. Of course, additional watering is a given, with new and potted plants requiring even more irrigation. In addition to watering more often, mulching plants can help conserve moisture and keep plants cooler. The use of shade covers, especially on vegetable crops, may be helpful as well.
Container plants will require daily watering, even twice a day in high temperatures. These plants should be given a thorough soaking until water can be seen coming out from the drainage holes. Placing water granules in pots also helps. As these will gradually soak up excess water, in times of dryness, the granules will slowly release some of this water back into the soil. Moving potted plants to a shadier location during the heat of the day is also recommended.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Odd little bumps on leaves and funny protuberances on your plant’s foliage may be a sign of pest, bacterial or fungal problems. These galls may look like they are hurting the plant’s health, but leaf galls on plants are actually harmless. There are nearly as many types of galls as there are causes. Leaf gall identification is tricky, as many galls look similar. Galls are often named after their tree species and may be confined to one family or genus of plant. 
Causes for Leaf Galls on Plants
Leaf galls on plants are usually the result of mites and other sucking insects that make their homes under the plant tissue. Their feeding activities cause some galls, while chemicals secreted during egg growth in saliva or even excretions, may cause the changes to plant tissue. These changes may not be limited to bumps on leaves. Flowers, fruits, and even roots can develop these changes in tissue. Leaf galls are also sometimes found on stems and trunks. Other causes for galls are fungal and bacterial diseases.
What Does Leaf Gall Look Like?
When it come to leaf gall identification, even the most experienced gardener may wonder, what does leaf gall look like? The appearance is generally recognized as a bump, peak or scabby area of plant flesh. They are firm to the touch and they may be thickly coating a plant, found singly or in pairs. Leaf galls on plants might be green and match the plant material. They might also be bright pink or red and resemble large pimples.
Many galls are named for their appearance. There are blister, bud, nipple, pouch and roly-poly galls to name a few. Other galls are named for the plant affected, such as oak tree galls. Still other galls get their name from the area affected. These are bud, flower, leaf, twig and root galls. Galls aren’t necessarily bad for your plants but they can mar the appearance of prize and ornamental specimens. In these cases, it is important to know how to treat leaf gall.
How to Treat Leaf Gall
It is easier to prevent leaf galls than to treat them once they are there. In fact, treatment is not recommended, as the galls are doing no harm and any chemical formulation used could actually do more harm than good. Before you ever see bumps on leaves or other plant parts, spray with a miticide to prevent galls on ornamental plants. Horticultural oils and some insecticides will be effective but not after the mites are under the surface of the plant. Don’t use broad spectrum insecticides, which will harm potential predators of the gall mites.
Give the plant good and appropriate care to encourage good health. Reduce the chance of injury to plant stems and trunks which could encourage the introduction of insects, fungal or bacterial diseases. The most fool proof way to avoid galls is to choose plants that are resistant to the most prevalent varieties in your zone.
Causes for Leaf Galls on Plants
Leaf galls on plants are usually the result of mites and other sucking insects that make their homes under the plant tissue. Their feeding activities cause some galls, while chemicals secreted during egg growth in saliva or even excretions, may cause the changes to plant tissue. These changes may not be limited to bumps on leaves. Flowers, fruits, and even roots can develop these changes in tissue. Leaf galls are also sometimes found on stems and trunks. Other causes for galls are fungal and bacterial diseases.
What Does Leaf Gall Look Like?
When it come to leaf gall identification, even the most experienced gardener may wonder, what does leaf gall look like? The appearance is generally recognized as a bump, peak or scabby area of plant flesh. They are firm to the touch and they may be thickly coating a plant, found singly or in pairs. Leaf galls on plants might be green and match the plant material. They might also be bright pink or red and resemble large pimples.
Many galls are named for their appearance. There are blister, bud, nipple, pouch and roly-poly galls to name a few. Other galls are named for the plant affected, such as oak tree galls. Still other galls get their name from the area affected. These are bud, flower, leaf, twig and root galls. Galls aren’t necessarily bad for your plants but they can mar the appearance of prize and ornamental specimens. In these cases, it is important to know how to treat leaf gall.
How to Treat Leaf Gall
It is easier to prevent leaf galls than to treat them once they are there. In fact, treatment is not recommended, as the galls are doing no harm and any chemical formulation used could actually do more harm than good. Before you ever see bumps on leaves or other plant parts, spray with a miticide to prevent galls on ornamental plants. Horticultural oils and some insecticides will be effective but not after the mites are under the surface of the plant. Don’t use broad spectrum insecticides, which will harm potential predators of the gall mites.
Give the plant good and appropriate care to encourage good health. Reduce the chance of injury to plant stems and trunks which could encourage the introduction of insects, fungal or bacterial diseases. The most fool proof way to avoid galls is to choose plants that are resistant to the most prevalent varieties in your zone.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Ozone is an air pollutant that is essentially a very active form of oxygen. It forms when sunlight reacts with exhaust from internal combustion engines. Ozone damage to plants occurs when plant foliage absorbs ozone during transpiration, which is the plant’s normal breathing process. The ozone reacts with compounds inside the plant to produce toxins that affect the plant in a variety of ways. The result is reduced yields and unsightly discolorations, such as silver spots on plants.
How to Fix Ozone Damage
Plants under stress are most likely to be seriously affected by ozone damage, and they recover slowly. Treat injured plants by providing conditions as close to the ideal for the species as possible. Irrigate well, especially on hot days, and fertilize on schedule. Keep the garden weed-free so that the plants don’t have competition for moisture and nutrients. Treating ozone injured plants won’t correct the damage that is already done, but it can help the plant produce new, healthy foliage and help prevent diseases and insects that normally attack weak and injured plants.
Ozone Plant Damage
There are a number of symptoms associated with ozone plant damage. Ozone first damages foliage that is almost mature. As it progresses, older and younger leaves may also sustain damage. The first symptoms are stippling or tiny spots on the surface of the leaves that may be light tan, yellow, red, red-brown, dark brown, black, or purple in color. Over time, the spots grow together to form large dead areas.
Here are some additional symptoms you may see in plants with ozone damage:
You may see bleached out or silver spots on plants. Leaves may turn yellow, bronze or red, inhibiting their ability to perform photosynthesis. Citrus and grape leaves may wither and drop off. Conifers may show yellow-brown mottling and tip burn. White pines are often stunted and yellow.
These symptoms closely mimic those of a variety of plant diseases. Your local cooperative extension agent can help you determine whether the symptoms are caused by ozone damage or disease.
Depending on the extent of the damage, plants may have reduced yields. Fruits and vegetables may be small because they mature too early. The plants will likely outgrow the damage if the symptoms are light.
How to Fix Ozone Damage
Plants under stress are most likely to be seriously affected by ozone damage, and they recover slowly. Treat injured plants by providing conditions as close to the ideal for the species as possible. Irrigate well, especially on hot days, and fertilize on schedule. Keep the garden weed-free so that the plants don’t have competition for moisture and nutrients. Treating ozone injured plants won’t correct the damage that is already done, but it can help the plant produce new, healthy foliage and help prevent diseases and insects that normally attack weak and injured plants.
Ozone Plant Damage
There are a number of symptoms associated with ozone plant damage. Ozone first damages foliage that is almost mature. As it progresses, older and younger leaves may also sustain damage. The first symptoms are stippling or tiny spots on the surface of the leaves that may be light tan, yellow, red, red-brown, dark brown, black, or purple in color. Over time, the spots grow together to form large dead areas.
Here are some additional symptoms you may see in plants with ozone damage:
You may see bleached out or silver spots on plants. Leaves may turn yellow, bronze or red, inhibiting their ability to perform photosynthesis. Citrus and grape leaves may wither and drop off. Conifers may show yellow-brown mottling and tip burn. White pines are often stunted and yellow.
These symptoms closely mimic those of a variety of plant diseases. Your local cooperative extension agent can help you determine whether the symptoms are caused by ozone damage or disease.
Depending on the extent of the damage, plants may have reduced yields. Fruits and vegetables may be small because they mature too early. The plants will likely outgrow the damage if the symptoms are light.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Reversion of variegated leaves occurs in many types of plants. This is when the white shading or lighter speckles and borders turn into green. This is frustrating to many gardeners, as the variegated forms of plants provide increased interest, brighten dim areas and are bred specifically to enhance this trait. Variegation loss in plants may be due to lighting, seasonality or other factors. It is not possible to reverse loss of variegation, but you can usually keep it from taking over an entire plant.
Reversion of Variegated Leaves
Variegation may be the result of a natural anomaly or carefully engineered breeding. Whichever, the case, variegated leaves may turn completely green for a number of reasons. The coloring results from unstable changes in the leaf’s cells. One of the most common variegated plant problems is limited chlorophyll in the leaves. Less chlorophyll means less solar energy, as it is a primary component in photosynthesis. Variegated plants are less vigorous than green specimens are. The tendency for reversion of variegated leaves is a protective adaptation that allows the plant to return to a more successful form.
Why Does Variegation Disappear?
Loss of variegation is a frustrating condition for the gardener. Why does variegation disappear? The plant may do it as a survival tactic. It may also occur due to another leaf cell mutation. Variegated plants growing in shady or semi-shady locations are really at a disadvantage. Not only do they have low levels of chlorophyll, but they are not even exposed to adequate light. This scenario lends itself to reversion of variegated leaves.
Variegation loss in plants could also be spurred by changes in heat or cold. If the weather is unfavorable to a particular plant, it may revert just to get a competitive advantage. Once the leaves revert to all green, the plant can increase its harvest of solar energy, which in turn gives it more fuel to produce bigger and stronger growth. Waterlogged plants may also turn back and new shoots often come out green.
Variegated Plant Problems
Variegated plants tend to be less hearty and vigorous as compared to their completely green cousins. They have no more or less general problems, but some plants can produce albino growth. This type of growth cannot gather solar energy and will eventually die back. If all the new growth becomes albino, the plant will not survive. This is the very opposite of the reversion process.
Variegated plants also have smaller leaves, less tolerance to shady areas and yet a tendency to burn in hot sun, and slower growth. Most plants will only revert on stem, branch or other area. You can cut these off to try to prevent the entire plant from reverting. This usually works to slow the production of green leaf cells. If that doesn’t work, embrace your healthy, beautiful green chimera of a plant.
Reversion of Variegated Leaves
Variegation may be the result of a natural anomaly or carefully engineered breeding. Whichever, the case, variegated leaves may turn completely green for a number of reasons. The coloring results from unstable changes in the leaf’s cells. One of the most common variegated plant problems is limited chlorophyll in the leaves. Less chlorophyll means less solar energy, as it is a primary component in photosynthesis. Variegated plants are less vigorous than green specimens are. The tendency for reversion of variegated leaves is a protective adaptation that allows the plant to return to a more successful form.
Why Does Variegation Disappear?
Loss of variegation is a frustrating condition for the gardener. Why does variegation disappear? The plant may do it as a survival tactic. It may also occur due to another leaf cell mutation. Variegated plants growing in shady or semi-shady locations are really at a disadvantage. Not only do they have low levels of chlorophyll, but they are not even exposed to adequate light. This scenario lends itself to reversion of variegated leaves.
Variegation loss in plants could also be spurred by changes in heat or cold. If the weather is unfavorable to a particular plant, it may revert just to get a competitive advantage. Once the leaves revert to all green, the plant can increase its harvest of solar energy, which in turn gives it more fuel to produce bigger and stronger growth. Waterlogged plants may also turn back and new shoots often come out green.
Variegated Plant Problems
Variegated plants tend to be less hearty and vigorous as compared to their completely green cousins. They have no more or less general problems, but some plants can produce albino growth. This type of growth cannot gather solar energy and will eventually die back. If all the new growth becomes albino, the plant will not survive. This is the very opposite of the reversion process.
Variegated plants also have smaller leaves, less tolerance to shady areas and yet a tendency to burn in hot sun, and slower growth. Most plants will only revert on stem, branch or other area. You can cut these off to try to prevent the entire plant from reverting. This usually works to slow the production of green leaf cells. If that doesn’t work, embrace your healthy, beautiful green chimera of a plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Nothing is more disconcerting than to discover a problem with your plants. But instead of getting worked up over things you cannot do and throwing them away, why not learn what you can do. The basic care of damaged plants may not be as difficult as you think. With a little know how, you can find ways for reviving stress damaged plants and making them well again.
Damaged Plant Care
Oh no, my beautiful coleus (or other favorite plant) is looking bedraggled! What can be done to perk up a stress damaged plant? Whether due to under or over watering, sunscald, pests or disease, inadequate fertilization or what have you, it may be advisable to retrieve a sample for diagnosis. Take the sample to a reputable nursery or contact your local Master Gardener chapter or extension service for a professional opinion and information on how to salvage your injured plants. That said, there are some simple remedies for reviving stress damaged plants, but first you must become something of a detective.
Questions for Salvaging Injured Plants
When it comes to dealing with common plant problems, it helps to assess the situation carefully. One of the easiest ways to accomplish this is by asking questions. Important questions to ask regarding your stress damaged plant include:
First of all, this may seem elementary my dear Watson, but what type of plant are we working with here? Consider where the damaged plant is located, sun, partial shade, or shaded area, etc. Has it been recently transplanted or otherwise moved? Are any other plants in this location afflicted? Examine the plant closely to determine the extent of damage. When were the first symptoms noted? Has there been a progression of symptoms? What part of the plant was affected first? Are insects observed and, if so, what do they look like?
Identify what type of soil the damaged plant resides in. Tight clay or loose, sandy soil? Have there been fungicides, insecticides, or weed killers used in this area? Salt or ice melt utilized on or around the damaged plant? Additionally, consider your irrigation and fertilizing routine. The final checks to cross off are in regards to mechanical damage, such as weed trimmer injury, construction or utility work nearby, and even traffic pattern. Is the suffering plant regularly or infrequently tromped on by the kids when they run for the school bus? This last bit is a fairly obvious causal effect, but in one’s dismay over the damaged plants, it may also be overlooked.
Care of Damaged Plants
Once you have considered the above questions, you are ready to take on damaged plant care based on the answers. Some of the more common tips for salvaging injured plants include the following:
First, prune any broken branches or stems to within ¼-Plntinch of a live bud or branch. Do not prune outdoor plants if there is any danger of frost, as recent pruning leaves the plant susceptible to additional damage. If branches or stems are damaged but not broken, stake the damaged area and tie with soft fabric or string. This may or may not work, and if not, the broken branch should be pruned. If a potted plant appears to be root bound (roots are growing through the drainage hole), transplant to a larger container.
If you suspect a houseplant has been overwatered, remove the damaged plant and wrap the roots in a dry towel. Let the towel absorb any excess water. Trim off any rotting or mushy roots. If there has been a period of frequent freezing and thawing (known as frost heave) and your outdoor plants roots are pushing up out of the soil, push them back into the soil or wait until a thaw and then dig deep enough to recover roots. Consider the simplest routes to reviving your stress damaged plant. A stress damaged plant’s most likely fix is a quick one, as the damage is probably caused by over or under watering, a temperature flux, or maybe just a need for fertilizer.
Once you have gone through the above and checked off the least likely (such as absence of pests and tromping children), the solution may be as easy as transplanting to a different environ, watering more frequently (or not, as the case may be), or regular feeding of your stress damaged plant.
Damaged Plant Care
Oh no, my beautiful coleus (or other favorite plant) is looking bedraggled! What can be done to perk up a stress damaged plant? Whether due to under or over watering, sunscald, pests or disease, inadequate fertilization or what have you, it may be advisable to retrieve a sample for diagnosis. Take the sample to a reputable nursery or contact your local Master Gardener chapter or extension service for a professional opinion and information on how to salvage your injured plants. That said, there are some simple remedies for reviving stress damaged plants, but first you must become something of a detective.
Questions for Salvaging Injured Plants
When it comes to dealing with common plant problems, it helps to assess the situation carefully. One of the easiest ways to accomplish this is by asking questions. Important questions to ask regarding your stress damaged plant include:
First of all, this may seem elementary my dear Watson, but what type of plant are we working with here? Consider where the damaged plant is located, sun, partial shade, or shaded area, etc. Has it been recently transplanted or otherwise moved? Are any other plants in this location afflicted? Examine the plant closely to determine the extent of damage. When were the first symptoms noted? Has there been a progression of symptoms? What part of the plant was affected first? Are insects observed and, if so, what do they look like?
Identify what type of soil the damaged plant resides in. Tight clay or loose, sandy soil? Have there been fungicides, insecticides, or weed killers used in this area? Salt or ice melt utilized on or around the damaged plant? Additionally, consider your irrigation and fertilizing routine. The final checks to cross off are in regards to mechanical damage, such as weed trimmer injury, construction or utility work nearby, and even traffic pattern. Is the suffering plant regularly or infrequently tromped on by the kids when they run for the school bus? This last bit is a fairly obvious causal effect, but in one’s dismay over the damaged plants, it may also be overlooked.
Care of Damaged Plants
Once you have considered the above questions, you are ready to take on damaged plant care based on the answers. Some of the more common tips for salvaging injured plants include the following:
First, prune any broken branches or stems to within ¼-Plntinch of a live bud or branch. Do not prune outdoor plants if there is any danger of frost, as recent pruning leaves the plant susceptible to additional damage. If branches or stems are damaged but not broken, stake the damaged area and tie with soft fabric or string. This may or may not work, and if not, the broken branch should be pruned. If a potted plant appears to be root bound (roots are growing through the drainage hole), transplant to a larger container.
If you suspect a houseplant has been overwatered, remove the damaged plant and wrap the roots in a dry towel. Let the towel absorb any excess water. Trim off any rotting or mushy roots. If there has been a period of frequent freezing and thawing (known as frost heave) and your outdoor plants roots are pushing up out of the soil, push them back into the soil or wait until a thaw and then dig deep enough to recover roots. Consider the simplest routes to reviving your stress damaged plant. A stress damaged plant’s most likely fix is a quick one, as the damage is probably caused by over or under watering, a temperature flux, or maybe just a need for fertilizer.
Once you have gone through the above and checked off the least likely (such as absence of pests and tromping children), the solution may be as easy as transplanting to a different environ, watering more frequently (or not, as the case may be), or regular feeding of your stress damaged plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Nutrient deficiencies in plants are hard to spot and are often misdiagnosed. Plant deficiencies are often encouraged by a number of factors including poor soil, insect damage, too much fertilizer, poor drainage or disease. When nutrients such as magnesium, calcium, potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen are lacking, plants respond in a variety of ways—oftentimes in the leaves.
Leaf problems in plants that are deficient in nutrients or trace minerals are common and may include stunted growth, drying and discoloration. Nutritional deficiencies present differently in plants, and a proper diagnosis is critical in order to rectify the problem. One of the most commonly asked questions relates to having a plant with purple leaves, or leaves turning reddish purple in color.
Why Are Plant Leaves Turning Purple?
When you notice a plant with purple leaves rather than the normal green color, it is most likely due to a phosphorus deficiency. All plants need phosphorus (P) in order to create energy, sugars and nucleic acids. Young plants are more likely to display signs of phosphorus deficiency than older plants. If the soil is cool early in the growing season, a phosphorus deficiency may develop in some plants. The underside of marigold and tomato plant leaves will turn purple with too little phosphorus while other plants will be stunted or turn a dull dark-green color.
Leaves Turning Reddish Purple in Color
Leaves turning reddish purple in color is most often seen in corn crops. Corn with a phosphorus deficiency will have narrow, bluish green leaves that eventually turn reddish purple. This problem occurs early in the season, often due to cold and wet soil. Corn suffering from a lack of magnesium may also display a yellow streaking between the veins of lower leaves that turn red with time.
Other Causes for a Plant with Purple Leaves
If you have a plant with purple leaves, it may also be due to elevated levels of anthocyanin, which is a purple colored pigment. This pigment builds up when a plant becomes stressed and normal plant functions are interrupted. This problem can be very hard to diagnose as other factors can cause the pigment buildup such as cool temperatures, disease and drought.
Leaf problems in plants that are deficient in nutrients or trace minerals are common and may include stunted growth, drying and discoloration. Nutritional deficiencies present differently in plants, and a proper diagnosis is critical in order to rectify the problem. One of the most commonly asked questions relates to having a plant with purple leaves, or leaves turning reddish purple in color.
Why Are Plant Leaves Turning Purple?
When you notice a plant with purple leaves rather than the normal green color, it is most likely due to a phosphorus deficiency. All plants need phosphorus (P) in order to create energy, sugars and nucleic acids. Young plants are more likely to display signs of phosphorus deficiency than older plants. If the soil is cool early in the growing season, a phosphorus deficiency may develop in some plants. The underside of marigold and tomato plant leaves will turn purple with too little phosphorus while other plants will be stunted or turn a dull dark-green color.
Leaves Turning Reddish Purple in Color
Leaves turning reddish purple in color is most often seen in corn crops. Corn with a phosphorus deficiency will have narrow, bluish green leaves that eventually turn reddish purple. This problem occurs early in the season, often due to cold and wet soil. Corn suffering from a lack of magnesium may also display a yellow streaking between the veins of lower leaves that turn red with time.
Other Causes for a Plant with Purple Leaves
If you have a plant with purple leaves, it may also be due to elevated levels of anthocyanin, which is a purple colored pigment. This pigment builds up when a plant becomes stressed and normal plant functions are interrupted. This problem can be very hard to diagnose as other factors can cause the pigment buildup such as cool temperatures, disease and drought.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
If you’ve ever found a flower stem that looks wide and flattened, splayed or fused, you’ve probably discovered an odd disorder called fasciation. Some fasciation in plants result in huge, grotesque stems and flowers, while others are quite subtle. Discovering fasciations in your garden or in the wild is intriguing, and one of the fascinations of observing nature. Let’s find out more about the fasciation deformation of flowers.
What is Fasciation?
So exactly what is fasciation in flowers anyway? Fasciation literally means banded or bundled. Scientists aren’t sure what causes the deformity, but they believe it is probably caused by a hormonal imbalance. This imbalance may be the result of a random mutation, or it can be caused by insects, diseases or physical injury to the plant. Think of it as a random occurrence. It doesn’t spread to other plants or other parts of the same plant. The result of fasciation is thick, often flattened, stems and large flowers or flower heads with far more than the usual number of flowers. The extent of fasciation deformation of flowers depends on where the damage occurs. Fasciations close to the ground affect a larger portion of the plant.
Can Fasciation Be Treated?
Can fasciation be treated once you spot it? In short, no. Once the damage is done, you can’t correct fasciation on that particular stem. In some cases, you may be able to prune out the affected stems without damaging the plant. The good news is that perennials that exhibit fasciation may be perfectly normal next year, so there is no need to destroy the plant. Not all fasciation in plants makes them undesirable. The fasciation of a fan-tailed willow makes it a highly desirable landscape shrub. Fasciation deformation of flowers such as the cauliflower-like heads of a celosia is part of the charm of the plant. Crested saguaro cactus, fasciated Japanese cedar, beefsteak tomatoes and broccoli are all examples of desirable fasciations.
While fasciation in flowers is usually a one-time occurrence, sometimes the fasciation is carried in the plant’s genetic material so that it reoccurs from generation to generation. More often, fasciated plants have to be propagated vegetatively to carry on the unusual characteristics. A fasciated plant can be a monstrosity or an interesting variation, and the difference is often in the eye of the beholder. Some gardeners will want to immediately replace the plant with one that looks more like its neighbors, while others will want to keep it as a curiosity.
What is Fasciation?
So exactly what is fasciation in flowers anyway? Fasciation literally means banded or bundled. Scientists aren’t sure what causes the deformity, but they believe it is probably caused by a hormonal imbalance. This imbalance may be the result of a random mutation, or it can be caused by insects, diseases or physical injury to the plant. Think of it as a random occurrence. It doesn’t spread to other plants or other parts of the same plant. The result of fasciation is thick, often flattened, stems and large flowers or flower heads with far more than the usual number of flowers. The extent of fasciation deformation of flowers depends on where the damage occurs. Fasciations close to the ground affect a larger portion of the plant.
Can Fasciation Be Treated?
Can fasciation be treated once you spot it? In short, no. Once the damage is done, you can’t correct fasciation on that particular stem. In some cases, you may be able to prune out the affected stems without damaging the plant. The good news is that perennials that exhibit fasciation may be perfectly normal next year, so there is no need to destroy the plant. Not all fasciation in plants makes them undesirable. The fasciation of a fan-tailed willow makes it a highly desirable landscape shrub. Fasciation deformation of flowers such as the cauliflower-like heads of a celosia is part of the charm of the plant. Crested saguaro cactus, fasciated Japanese cedar, beefsteak tomatoes and broccoli are all examples of desirable fasciations.
While fasciation in flowers is usually a one-time occurrence, sometimes the fasciation is carried in the plant’s genetic material so that it reoccurs from generation to generation. More often, fasciated plants have to be propagated vegetatively to carry on the unusual characteristics. A fasciated plant can be a monstrosity or an interesting variation, and the difference is often in the eye of the beholder. Some gardeners will want to immediately replace the plant with one that looks more like its neighbors, while others will want to keep it as a curiosity.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Every swelling bud in the garden is like a little promise from your plants. When these buds collapse for no reason, it may bring a gardener to tears. It may feel like all the love and care you’ve given your plants and the time you waited to see them finally bloom was wasted. But fear not, fellow gardener; flower bud blast may be disappointing, but it’s rarely a serious condition.
What is Bud Blast?
Bud blast is a term used to describe flowers that have prematurely aborted before or soon after opening, such as with scape blasting in daylilies. Most often, flowers develop to a certain point and simply stop growing. Other bud blast symptoms may indicate the exact cause of flower bud blast. For example, flower buds that become paper-thin and dry may be suffering from botrytis blight, a common landscape fungus.
What Causes Bud Blast in Flowers?
More often than not, the cause of bud blast is a problem in the environment. This is good news, though, because treating bud blast only requires you to figure out what the problem is and fix it for good. To help with your bud blast care, the most common environmental problems are listed below, along with solutions for treating bud blast: Improper Watering – Improper watering causes a great deal of stress to many plants. Under watering may cause plants to redirect water from enlarging buds to food-producing areas in an act of self-preservation. Over watering often leads to root rot, or other fungal infections that may destroy developing flower buds. Water plants when the top two inches of the soil is dry, and add two to four inches of organic mulch to keep moisture levels more even.
Temperature Extremes – Extremes in temperature can influence developing buds, especially in indoor plants. When temperatures fluctuate madly, plants get stressed and may respond by dropping all excess baggage in an attempt to survive. Flowers are costly and are often the first thing to be jettisoned, especially when temperatures are more often very cold than very warm. Moving indoor plants may correct the problem, but not much can be done for outdoor plants, although covering them with cardboard boxes on very cold nights may help. Wrong Lighting – Light has a direct effect on how well the plant can produce food and survive. Often, buds fail when high light plants are in low light settings, if they are initiated at all. At the same time, plants accustomed to low light situations may overheat in direct sun, causing buds to fail. Move these plants to more appropriate lighting conditions or provide supplementary light indoors.
Too Little Humidity – Insufficient humidity can interfere with proper bud formation, especially in tender indoor plants like orchids. Too dry of conditions or humidity that fluctuates considerably will lead to buds that drop. If your indoor plants are experiencing this problem, you can place them on top of some rocks in the center of a pan filled with water to increase the humidity in their immediate area. Young Plants – Younger plants often lack the root structure to support blooms, though they may try to set them regardless, leading to aborted blossoms. If your plant has been recently transplanted or the one with problems is a perennial you divided in the last season, pick any blooms off to allow the root system to expand before permitting it to bloom.
What is Bud Blast?
Bud blast is a term used to describe flowers that have prematurely aborted before or soon after opening, such as with scape blasting in daylilies. Most often, flowers develop to a certain point and simply stop growing. Other bud blast symptoms may indicate the exact cause of flower bud blast. For example, flower buds that become paper-thin and dry may be suffering from botrytis blight, a common landscape fungus.
What Causes Bud Blast in Flowers?
More often than not, the cause of bud blast is a problem in the environment. This is good news, though, because treating bud blast only requires you to figure out what the problem is and fix it for good. To help with your bud blast care, the most common environmental problems are listed below, along with solutions for treating bud blast: Improper Watering – Improper watering causes a great deal of stress to many plants. Under watering may cause plants to redirect water from enlarging buds to food-producing areas in an act of self-preservation. Over watering often leads to root rot, or other fungal infections that may destroy developing flower buds. Water plants when the top two inches of the soil is dry, and add two to four inches of organic mulch to keep moisture levels more even.
Temperature Extremes – Extremes in temperature can influence developing buds, especially in indoor plants. When temperatures fluctuate madly, plants get stressed and may respond by dropping all excess baggage in an attempt to survive. Flowers are costly and are often the first thing to be jettisoned, especially when temperatures are more often very cold than very warm. Moving indoor plants may correct the problem, but not much can be done for outdoor plants, although covering them with cardboard boxes on very cold nights may help. Wrong Lighting – Light has a direct effect on how well the plant can produce food and survive. Often, buds fail when high light plants are in low light settings, if they are initiated at all. At the same time, plants accustomed to low light situations may overheat in direct sun, causing buds to fail. Move these plants to more appropriate lighting conditions or provide supplementary light indoors.
Too Little Humidity – Insufficient humidity can interfere with proper bud formation, especially in tender indoor plants like orchids. Too dry of conditions or humidity that fluctuates considerably will lead to buds that drop. If your indoor plants are experiencing this problem, you can place them on top of some rocks in the center of a pan filled with water to increase the humidity in their immediate area. Young Plants – Younger plants often lack the root structure to support blooms, though they may try to set them regardless, leading to aborted blossoms. If your plant has been recently transplanted or the one with problems is a perennial you divided in the last season, pick any blooms off to allow the root system to expand before permitting it to bloom.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Ever have one of those days when you feel a little sluggish and bloated? Well, your plants can have the same problem — they retain water just like people do when conditions are not right. Edema in plants is not a serious disease and it’s not a symptom of a bacteria, virus or insect infestation. Common causes of plant edema include over watering and improper fertilization; it’s easily curable if caught early.
What is Edema?
Edema, or oedema, is a type of abnormal water retention in plants, often influenced by the plant’s environment. Favorable conditions actually encourage edema in many cases, since affected plants already have a fair amount of water in their systems, providing them with more can just encourage them to gorge on liquid. Any time the plant takes up water faster than it transpires, edema becomes a risk. Signs of edema plant disease vary between susceptible species, but often include bumps, blisters or water-soaked areas on the undersides of leaves. These areas may expand and become corky, but in other plants, curling and distortion are common. White, crusty eruptions may form along the leaf veins or gall-like structures can develop under leaves with yellow corresponding spots on the upper leaf surface.
Treating Edema
Because it’s not a disease, there are many ways to treat edema, depending on the cause. Your job as gardener is to figure out what’s causing your plant’s problem and correct the situation. If your plant has edema, first adjust your watering habits. Most plants should never sit in water, so remove those saucers and make sure that big pots are draining well. Roots tend to absorb water faster when the water is warm and the atmosphere is cool, so wait to water until the sun is up in the morning whenever possible. Indoors, humidity can have a considerable influence on edema; improving air circulation around plants will help reduce humidity into safer ranges.
Increasing the light intensity is helpful for many plants with edema, but be sure not to cook them by moving them too quickly into brighter light. Make these changes gradually, over the course of a week or two, slowly leaving the plant in brighter light for an increasing length of time, until it no longer wilts in response to the sun. Lastly, make sure you’re fertilizing your plant properly. Plants with low available potassium and calcium can be more susceptible to edema. If cultural conditions seem correct for your plant, a soil test may be needed. Adjusting the pH can make more nutrients available, or you may need to add more of the nutrients that are lacking.
What is Edema?
Edema, or oedema, is a type of abnormal water retention in plants, often influenced by the plant’s environment. Favorable conditions actually encourage edema in many cases, since affected plants already have a fair amount of water in their systems, providing them with more can just encourage them to gorge on liquid. Any time the plant takes up water faster than it transpires, edema becomes a risk. Signs of edema plant disease vary between susceptible species, but often include bumps, blisters or water-soaked areas on the undersides of leaves. These areas may expand and become corky, but in other plants, curling and distortion are common. White, crusty eruptions may form along the leaf veins or gall-like structures can develop under leaves with yellow corresponding spots on the upper leaf surface.
Treating Edema
Because it’s not a disease, there are many ways to treat edema, depending on the cause. Your job as gardener is to figure out what’s causing your plant’s problem and correct the situation. If your plant has edema, first adjust your watering habits. Most plants should never sit in water, so remove those saucers and make sure that big pots are draining well. Roots tend to absorb water faster when the water is warm and the atmosphere is cool, so wait to water until the sun is up in the morning whenever possible. Indoors, humidity can have a considerable influence on edema; improving air circulation around plants will help reduce humidity into safer ranges.
Increasing the light intensity is helpful for many plants with edema, but be sure not to cook them by moving them too quickly into brighter light. Make these changes gradually, over the course of a week or two, slowly leaving the plant in brighter light for an increasing length of time, until it no longer wilts in response to the sun. Lastly, make sure you’re fertilizing your plant properly. Plants with low available potassium and calcium can be more susceptible to edema. If cultural conditions seem correct for your plant, a soil test may be needed. Adjusting the pH can make more nutrients available, or you may need to add more of the nutrients that are lacking.
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