文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Most people are introduced to Orchids through Phalaenopsis Orchids. These are the thick-leaved plants with elegant, arching sprays of blooms that can be seen in so many design magazines and sitting on coffee tables across America. There are about 60 true species of Phalaenopsis; they are native to tropical Asian countries including the Philippines, Borneo, Java and elsewhere. These plants have been extensively hybridized, and there are thousands of Phalaenopsis hybrids, ranging from the stark, classic white hybrid (often called a Moth Orchid) to jewel-like miniatures with clouds of yellow and candy pink blooms.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Light: Phalaenopsis are low-light Orchids and will thrive in a east window, or a shaded southerly or westerly exposure. They do not like direct sunlight and will scorch. They also will do well under common grow lights, positioned about a foot off the plant. A well-grown phal will have darker green leaves on top and streaks of red or burgundy on the undersides.
Water: The Phalaenopsis is a Monopodial Orchid that grows from a single stem. It does not have the large water-storing pseudobulbs found on Sympodial Orchids, although its leaves can store some water. Thus, the plant has a lower tolerance for drought. During the growth season, water the plant whenever its exposed roots turn silvery white, usually weekly. Try to keep the potting media slightly damp. During the flowering season, you can cut the water back to every other week. The higher the humidity, the more important it is to maintain a good air flow around the roots and leaves.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a weak Orchid fertilizer weekly (weakly weekly, as the growers say). Cut fertilizer back to once a month during the winter and flowering season. Some growers like to give the plant a boost of blooming fertilizer in September or October to provoke a flower spike.
Temperature: Generally, Phalaenopsis are considered a warm-house plant. During active growth, they like temperatures between about 75°F and 85°F (24°C and 30°C), but they can adapt to a normal house temperature of 65°F to 70°F (18°C to 21°C). The higher the temperature, the greater the plant’s need for humidity. However, they also like a nice contrast between night and day temperatures.
Blooming
Phalaenopsis typically bloom in the late winter or early spring. Their long-lasting flowers are held on arching branches and open successively. A single multi-branching flower spike can have more than 20 flowers. Individual Phalaenopsis flowers can last for weeks. To induce a flower spike, the plant needs a few cooler nights, down to 55°F (13°C). The plants will not bloom well without this temperature contrast.
Potting and Media
Phalaenopsis can be grown in most Orchid potting media, including chunks of pine bark, clay aggregate pellets, charcoal, perlite, sphagnum moss, and styrofoam. They can also be grown in hanging baskets or mounted on slabs in a greenhouse-type environment. As with all Epiphytic Orchids, they should be planted in free-draining containers. Repot Phalaenopsis in spring, after the bloom is done. Adult Phalaenopsis can often go for two years or more before they need to be repotted.
Grower’s Tips
Phalaenopsis are generally very rewarding plants. They are not demanding and, in the right conditions, they will reward the grower with months of showy blooms. It is vitally important, however, that water never be allowed to rest in the growing tip of the plant. This will cause the new leaves to rot, and the plant will die. Thus, they should only be watered in the morning. As with all Orchids, the higher the humidity and temperature, the greater the need for turbulent air flow to prevent rot, fungus and diseases. Successful growth means finding the right balance between humidity, temperature, light and air flow.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Light: Phalaenopsis are low-light Orchids and will thrive in a east window, or a shaded southerly or westerly exposure. They do not like direct sunlight and will scorch. They also will do well under common grow lights, positioned about a foot off the plant. A well-grown phal will have darker green leaves on top and streaks of red or burgundy on the undersides.
Water: The Phalaenopsis is a Monopodial Orchid that grows from a single stem. It does not have the large water-storing pseudobulbs found on Sympodial Orchids, although its leaves can store some water. Thus, the plant has a lower tolerance for drought. During the growth season, water the plant whenever its exposed roots turn silvery white, usually weekly. Try to keep the potting media slightly damp. During the flowering season, you can cut the water back to every other week. The higher the humidity, the more important it is to maintain a good air flow around the roots and leaves.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a weak Orchid fertilizer weekly (weakly weekly, as the growers say). Cut fertilizer back to once a month during the winter and flowering season. Some growers like to give the plant a boost of blooming fertilizer in September or October to provoke a flower spike.
Temperature: Generally, Phalaenopsis are considered a warm-house plant. During active growth, they like temperatures between about 75°F and 85°F (24°C and 30°C), but they can adapt to a normal house temperature of 65°F to 70°F (18°C to 21°C). The higher the temperature, the greater the plant’s need for humidity. However, they also like a nice contrast between night and day temperatures.
Blooming
Phalaenopsis typically bloom in the late winter or early spring. Their long-lasting flowers are held on arching branches and open successively. A single multi-branching flower spike can have more than 20 flowers. Individual Phalaenopsis flowers can last for weeks. To induce a flower spike, the plant needs a few cooler nights, down to 55°F (13°C). The plants will not bloom well without this temperature contrast.
Potting and Media
Phalaenopsis can be grown in most Orchid potting media, including chunks of pine bark, clay aggregate pellets, charcoal, perlite, sphagnum moss, and styrofoam. They can also be grown in hanging baskets or mounted on slabs in a greenhouse-type environment. As with all Epiphytic Orchids, they should be planted in free-draining containers. Repot Phalaenopsis in spring, after the bloom is done. Adult Phalaenopsis can often go for two years or more before they need to be repotted.
Grower’s Tips
Phalaenopsis are generally very rewarding plants. They are not demanding and, in the right conditions, they will reward the grower with months of showy blooms. It is vitally important, however, that water never be allowed to rest in the growing tip of the plant. This will cause the new leaves to rot, and the plant will die. Thus, they should only be watered in the morning. As with all Orchids, the higher the humidity and temperature, the greater the need for turbulent air flow to prevent rot, fungus and diseases. Successful growth means finding the right balance between humidity, temperature, light and air flow.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
The plants commonly called Calla Lilies are members of the genus Zantedeschia. They are herbaceous flowering plants native to Africa, ranging from South Africa north to Malawi.
Although not considered true Lilies, the Calla Lily is an extraordinary flower. This beautiful plant, available in a multitude of colors, grows from rhizomes and is ideal for use in beds and borders. You can also grow them in containers, either outdoors or in a sunny window as houseplants.
Here are a few tips on growing Calla Lilies that will make them sparkle in your yard.
Growing Conditions and General Care
It is easy to grow Calla Lilies. These plants do not generally require too much attention. Proper planting and location are about the only important things to consider when growing Calla Lilies. Care of them requires that they be planted in loose, well-drained soil. They prefer to be located in full sun or partial shade in warmer climates. Plants are typically planted in the spring. However, wait until the threat of frost has passed and the soil has warmed sufficiently before planting.
They should be planted rather deep, about 4 inches (10 cm) for greater results, and spaced approximately a foot apart. Once planted, the area should be watered well. Calla Lilies enjoy being kept moist and will also benefit from a monthly dose of fertilizer throughout the growing season.
As with planting, there’s not too much required for the care of Calla Lilies other than keeping them watered and fertilized. An adequate layer of mulch around the plants will help keep the area moist and free of weeds. They require a dormant period once flowering has ceased. During this time, you should refrain from watering as much to allow the plant to die back.
If you grow Calla Lilies in containers, cease watering and move the plant to a dark area once the foliage has faded. Regular watering can resume within two to three months. Although they can remain in the ground year round in warmer climates, they should be lifted and stored in cooler areas.
Dig up the rhizomes in autumn, usually after the first frost, and shake off any soil. Allow them to dry out for a few days before storing the rhizomes for winter. Calla Lilies should be stored in peat moss and located in a cool, dry area, preferably dark, until warmer temperatures return in spring. Likewise, you can choose to start your plants indoors during late winter and transplant them outside in spring. They can also be divided when lifted or during their dormancy period.
Growing Calla Lilies is easy and care is minimal at best. Choosing to grow them in the garden or as houseplants is a great way to add color to any area. These tips on growing Calla Lilies will help you enjoy these lovely flowers even more.
Although not considered true Lilies, the Calla Lily is an extraordinary flower. This beautiful plant, available in a multitude of colors, grows from rhizomes and is ideal for use in beds and borders. You can also grow them in containers, either outdoors or in a sunny window as houseplants.
Here are a few tips on growing Calla Lilies that will make them sparkle in your yard.
Growing Conditions and General Care
It is easy to grow Calla Lilies. These plants do not generally require too much attention. Proper planting and location are about the only important things to consider when growing Calla Lilies. Care of them requires that they be planted in loose, well-drained soil. They prefer to be located in full sun or partial shade in warmer climates. Plants are typically planted in the spring. However, wait until the threat of frost has passed and the soil has warmed sufficiently before planting.
They should be planted rather deep, about 4 inches (10 cm) for greater results, and spaced approximately a foot apart. Once planted, the area should be watered well. Calla Lilies enjoy being kept moist and will also benefit from a monthly dose of fertilizer throughout the growing season.
As with planting, there’s not too much required for the care of Calla Lilies other than keeping them watered and fertilized. An adequate layer of mulch around the plants will help keep the area moist and free of weeds. They require a dormant period once flowering has ceased. During this time, you should refrain from watering as much to allow the plant to die back.
If you grow Calla Lilies in containers, cease watering and move the plant to a dark area once the foliage has faded. Regular watering can resume within two to three months. Although they can remain in the ground year round in warmer climates, they should be lifted and stored in cooler areas.
Dig up the rhizomes in autumn, usually after the first frost, and shake off any soil. Allow them to dry out for a few days before storing the rhizomes for winter. Calla Lilies should be stored in peat moss and located in a cool, dry area, preferably dark, until warmer temperatures return in spring. Likewise, you can choose to start your plants indoors during late winter and transplant them outside in spring. They can also be divided when lifted or during their dormancy period.
Growing Calla Lilies is easy and care is minimal at best. Choosing to grow them in the garden or as houseplants is a great way to add color to any area. These tips on growing Calla Lilies will help you enjoy these lovely flowers even more.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Purple Coneflowers (Echinacea) are quintessential prairie plants. They are hardy, drought tolerant, long-blooming, and are being cultivated in a ever widening range of colors. It’s hard to find a garden without at least one variety. Echinacea is a native North American genus with about 10 species. Not all make great garden plants. Echinacea purpurea is by far the most popular. It has a more fibrous root system, rather than the long tap root and woody crown found in other wilder species, and is more adaptable to garden conditions and more forgiving of dividing and transplanting.
The daisy-like flower is actually made up of several small flowers. The petals are sterile and are there to lure insects toward the many fertile flowers in the central disk or cone. These flowers are rich in nectar and very popular with both bees and butterflies. Flowers were generally some shade of purple or lavender, with a dark center cone. Much hybridization has been taking place and you can now find petal colors ranging from white to green through yellow, orange and deep reds. The common name “coneflower” refers to the way the petals angle backwards, away from the center, forming a cone.
Growth starts with a clump of basal leaves, which eventually send up flower stems in mid-summer. The leaf shape depends on the variety. Many have oval leaves with a wide base, but some from dry, western areas often have narrow leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: To get the most blooms and the sturdiest plants, plant them in a spot that gets at least 5 hours of full sun a day. They will tolerate partial shade, but plants may flop or strain to reach the sun.
Water: In seasons with normal rainfall, additional watering is not necessary
Hardiness Zones: Coneflowers will grow well just about anywhere and are labeled USDA Hardiness Zones 3-9. You may want to give them a little winter protection their first year, but once established, they are rugged and hardy.
Soil: Most Coneflowers grown in gardens prefer a neutral soil pH of about 6.5 to 7.0.
Fertilizer: Although they thrive best in a soil high in organic matter, too much supplemental fertilizer can cause them to become leggy. The new hybrids need more TLC than the species.
Planting
If you don’t want to start your own seeds, there are plenty of varieties available for purchase as plants, especially through mail order. Plants can also be divided or grown from stem cuttings. Coneflower can be planted in either spring or fall. Be sure to allow for good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.
Coneflower hybrids tend to be sterile, but the species are relatively easy to grow from seed. If you’d like to save seed, wait until the cone has fully dried. It will be darker in color and stiff to the touch. The seeds are attached to the sharp spines. You don’t need to separate them, before storing or planting. You could plant the whole cone, if you like, although you’ll want to divide the many seedlings you’ll wind up with. (If you grow multiple varieties and collect the seed yourself, you may well wind up with some interesting crosses.)
The seeds germinate best with some cold stratification. The easiest route would be to sow them outdoors in the fall, either in the ground or winter sow in pots. If you are going to start seed indoors, simulate the chilling period by soaking the seeds in water and then placing the slightly damp seed in a sealed container in the refrigerator for 8 – 10 weeks. Then take them out and plant as you normally would. They should germinate within 10 – 14 days.
Pests and Diseases
For the most part, Coneflower have very few problems. I already mentioned giving them good air circulation, so they aren’t bothered by fungal diseases. If you should see mildew or spots on the leaves, simply cut them back and let them fill back in.
Aster yellows, a systemic plant disease that causes growth deformities in the flowers. It can affect hundreds of different flowers, not just those in the Aster Family. There is not known cure and it is spread by a leafhopper, so affected plants should be removed and destroyed as soon as possible, to protect nearby plants.
Grower’s Tips
Coneflowers are often listed as drought tolerant, but they will do much better with regular water. I leave the plants standing through winter, to feed the birds. Shearing them back in the spring will result in bushier plants that bloom longer into the season. Deadheading is the primary maintenance required with Coneflowers. They are prolific bloomers and keeping them deadheaded will keep them in bloom all summer. Luckily each flower remains in bloom for several weeks. Flowers start blooming from the top of the stem. As the initial flower fades, more side shoots and buds will form along the stem. Keep the plants deadheaded and you’ll keep getting more flowers.
The daisy-like flower is actually made up of several small flowers. The petals are sterile and are there to lure insects toward the many fertile flowers in the central disk or cone. These flowers are rich in nectar and very popular with both bees and butterflies. Flowers were generally some shade of purple or lavender, with a dark center cone. Much hybridization has been taking place and you can now find petal colors ranging from white to green through yellow, orange and deep reds. The common name “coneflower” refers to the way the petals angle backwards, away from the center, forming a cone.
Growth starts with a clump of basal leaves, which eventually send up flower stems in mid-summer. The leaf shape depends on the variety. Many have oval leaves with a wide base, but some from dry, western areas often have narrow leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: To get the most blooms and the sturdiest plants, plant them in a spot that gets at least 5 hours of full sun a day. They will tolerate partial shade, but plants may flop or strain to reach the sun.
Water: In seasons with normal rainfall, additional watering is not necessary
Hardiness Zones: Coneflowers will grow well just about anywhere and are labeled USDA Hardiness Zones 3-9. You may want to give them a little winter protection their first year, but once established, they are rugged and hardy.
Soil: Most Coneflowers grown in gardens prefer a neutral soil pH of about 6.5 to 7.0.
Fertilizer: Although they thrive best in a soil high in organic matter, too much supplemental fertilizer can cause them to become leggy. The new hybrids need more TLC than the species.
Planting
If you don’t want to start your own seeds, there are plenty of varieties available for purchase as plants, especially through mail order. Plants can also be divided or grown from stem cuttings. Coneflower can be planted in either spring or fall. Be sure to allow for good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.
Coneflower hybrids tend to be sterile, but the species are relatively easy to grow from seed. If you’d like to save seed, wait until the cone has fully dried. It will be darker in color and stiff to the touch. The seeds are attached to the sharp spines. You don’t need to separate them, before storing or planting. You could plant the whole cone, if you like, although you’ll want to divide the many seedlings you’ll wind up with. (If you grow multiple varieties and collect the seed yourself, you may well wind up with some interesting crosses.)
The seeds germinate best with some cold stratification. The easiest route would be to sow them outdoors in the fall, either in the ground or winter sow in pots. If you are going to start seed indoors, simulate the chilling period by soaking the seeds in water and then placing the slightly damp seed in a sealed container in the refrigerator for 8 – 10 weeks. Then take them out and plant as you normally would. They should germinate within 10 – 14 days.
Pests and Diseases
For the most part, Coneflower have very few problems. I already mentioned giving them good air circulation, so they aren’t bothered by fungal diseases. If you should see mildew or spots on the leaves, simply cut them back and let them fill back in.
Aster yellows, a systemic plant disease that causes growth deformities in the flowers. It can affect hundreds of different flowers, not just those in the Aster Family. There is not known cure and it is spread by a leafhopper, so affected plants should be removed and destroyed as soon as possible, to protect nearby plants.
Grower’s Tips
Coneflowers are often listed as drought tolerant, but they will do much better with regular water. I leave the plants standing through winter, to feed the birds. Shearing them back in the spring will result in bushier plants that bloom longer into the season. Deadheading is the primary maintenance required with Coneflowers. They are prolific bloomers and keeping them deadheaded will keep them in bloom all summer. Luckily each flower remains in bloom for several weeks. Flowers start blooming from the top of the stem. As the initial flower fades, more side shoots and buds will form along the stem. Keep the plants deadheaded and you’ll keep getting more flowers.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Normally thought of as outdoor plants, Primula are actually excellent indoor potted plants for winter or spring blooms. Although the Common Primrose (Primula vulgaris) can be grown as a potted plant inside, the favorite potted Primula tend to be the more delicate species, with clusters of small blooms that rise above the crinkled and attractive leaves.
All delicate Primula should be treated about the same, and in no case should you expect a long-lived houseplant. Rather, think of your pot of spring-time Primula like your blooming fall Phalaenopsis Orchid: it’s a beautiful visitor, but will not survive over the long term inside. Once the plant has finished blooming, you can move it outside to a protected spot of your summer garden and hopefully enjoy a season of additional blooms.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer brightly lit windowsills, but the indoor fancy plant should not be exposed to direct sunlight. When planting them outside, put in a shady or dappled corner.
Water: It need adequate, even and regular moisture to thrive. They shouldn’t be soggy, but don’t let the soil dry out either. Look for signs of wilting.
Temperature: Moderate to cool. Intense heat can cause wilting and plant failure.
Soil: A loose, very well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize with a weak liquid fertilizer during growth and flowering. Because these are not meant to be long-lived indoor plants, a single application of controlled-release fertilizer may be adequate to get them through the flowering season.
Repotting
It’s unlikely you’ll be repotting your potted Primula. If you do, make sure not to bury them too deep—burying too deep is a prime reason Primula succumb. Bury the plants so the top of the root ball is slightly elevated above the level of the surrounding soil. Never pile soil up around the stem of a flowering plant.
Propagation
They are propagated from seed, which are sown directly in soil or potting media. Most pots of indoors Primula are purchased as flowering plants, destined to be set atop a desk, sill, or table until they’re done flowering. However, if you’re interested in selecting and starting your own Primula pots, sow seeds directly into the pot in fall or early winter and keep the seedlings under fluorescent lights in a warm spot, with regular water. Plants should be blooming by early spring.
Grower’s Tips
Potted indoor Primula are a delightful way to usher out winter or welcome in the spring. They are available in a wide range of striking colors, forming a mass of flowers. Most people prefer the taller, upright delicate Primulas indoors, but even a pot of common Primula is a nice addition. Extend the flowering season by pinching off dying buds. After the plant has done blooming, consider moving it outside. While inside, do not overwater; wilting even though the plant is getting water is a sign of root rot.
All delicate Primula should be treated about the same, and in no case should you expect a long-lived houseplant. Rather, think of your pot of spring-time Primula like your blooming fall Phalaenopsis Orchid: it’s a beautiful visitor, but will not survive over the long term inside. Once the plant has finished blooming, you can move it outside to a protected spot of your summer garden and hopefully enjoy a season of additional blooms.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer brightly lit windowsills, but the indoor fancy plant should not be exposed to direct sunlight. When planting them outside, put in a shady or dappled corner.
Water: It need adequate, even and regular moisture to thrive. They shouldn’t be soggy, but don’t let the soil dry out either. Look for signs of wilting.
Temperature: Moderate to cool. Intense heat can cause wilting and plant failure.
Soil: A loose, very well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize with a weak liquid fertilizer during growth and flowering. Because these are not meant to be long-lived indoor plants, a single application of controlled-release fertilizer may be adequate to get them through the flowering season.
Repotting
It’s unlikely you’ll be repotting your potted Primula. If you do, make sure not to bury them too deep—burying too deep is a prime reason Primula succumb. Bury the plants so the top of the root ball is slightly elevated above the level of the surrounding soil. Never pile soil up around the stem of a flowering plant.
Propagation
They are propagated from seed, which are sown directly in soil or potting media. Most pots of indoors Primula are purchased as flowering plants, destined to be set atop a desk, sill, or table until they’re done flowering. However, if you’re interested in selecting and starting your own Primula pots, sow seeds directly into the pot in fall or early winter and keep the seedlings under fluorescent lights in a warm spot, with regular water. Plants should be blooming by early spring.
Grower’s Tips
Potted indoor Primula are a delightful way to usher out winter or welcome in the spring. They are available in a wide range of striking colors, forming a mass of flowers. Most people prefer the taller, upright delicate Primulas indoors, but even a pot of common Primula is a nice addition. Extend the flowering season by pinching off dying buds. After the plant has done blooming, consider moving it outside. While inside, do not overwater; wilting even though the plant is getting water is a sign of root rot.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Asphodelus is a genus of mainly perennial plants first described for modern science in 1753 and commonly known as Asphodels.
The genus is native to temperate Europe, the Mediterranean, Africa, the Middle East, and the Indian Subcontinent, and now naturalized in other places.
Asphodels are popular garden plants, which grow in well-drained soils with abundant natural light. The plants are hardy herbaceous perennials with narrow tufted radical leaves and an elongated stem bearing a handsome spike of white or yellow flowers. Asphodelus albus and Asphodelus fistulosus have white flowers and grow from 1.5 to 2 feet (45 to 60 cm) high. Asphodelus ramosus is a larger plant, the large white flowers of which have a reddish-brown line in the middle of each segment.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Grow Asphodels in moderately fertile, well-drained soil in full sun. Does not tolerate heavy, poorly-drained soil. Irrigate occasionally to very little in coastal gardens. Considered hardy to USDA zone 6. It tolerates temperature down to 14ºF (-10ºC).
Great as a border or accent plant.
Propagation
Propagate Asphodels by seed, sown in pots in a cold frame in spring or propagate by division after flowering.
Pruning
Although you can cut back flower stems after flowering the seedheads are attractive so can be left.
The genus is native to temperate Europe, the Mediterranean, Africa, the Middle East, and the Indian Subcontinent, and now naturalized in other places.
Asphodels are popular garden plants, which grow in well-drained soils with abundant natural light. The plants are hardy herbaceous perennials with narrow tufted radical leaves and an elongated stem bearing a handsome spike of white or yellow flowers. Asphodelus albus and Asphodelus fistulosus have white flowers and grow from 1.5 to 2 feet (45 to 60 cm) high. Asphodelus ramosus is a larger plant, the large white flowers of which have a reddish-brown line in the middle of each segment.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Grow Asphodels in moderately fertile, well-drained soil in full sun. Does not tolerate heavy, poorly-drained soil. Irrigate occasionally to very little in coastal gardens. Considered hardy to USDA zone 6. It tolerates temperature down to 14ºF (-10ºC).
Great as a border or accent plant.
Propagation
Propagate Asphodels by seed, sown in pots in a cold frame in spring or propagate by division after flowering.
Pruning
Although you can cut back flower stems after flowering the seedheads are attractive so can be left.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Ranunculus is a large genus of about 600 species of plants in the Ranunculaceae. Members of the genus include the Buttercups, Spearworts, and Water Crowfoots.
They produce cheery multi-petaled flowers. The almost unpronounceable name covers a large group of perennials from Asia and Europe. The plants aren’t very hardy and may be annual in colder zones. They are easily damaged by temperatures below 28°F (-2°C), and thrive best in USDA zones 8 to 10.
A colorful field of flowers livens up the landscape and is easy to achieve with Ranunculus plants. Ranunculus bulbs come in several sizes and are best planted 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Using Ranunculus for the garden will reward the grower with an abundance of color and texture from early spring into the first month of summer. Ranunculus for the garden come in an array of colors from white, red and gold to orange, yellow and pink. The flowers boast layers of petals and will develop up to 12 inches (30 cm) in height. You can choose standard sized Ranunculus plants or dwarf specimens, which only get 8 inches (20 cm) high. Some varieties will produce flowers that span 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) in width. You may start Ranunculus bulbs directly outdoors or purchase started transplants at a nursery. The tubers must be soaked prior to planting for best results. Use the plants in borders, containers and wildflower fields. The thick rosettes will last for a week or more when used as cut flowers. Plant bulbs outside in fall in warmer zones and start them indoors in pots in cooler climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Growing Ranunculus flowers starts with planted roots or tubers. Often called Ranunculus bulbs, tubers are different but have similar structures and purposes to the more common bulb. Plant the bulbs or tubers in fall for a glorious spring display.
Growing Ranunculus flowers requires well-drained soil and full sun for best results.
Soak the tubers and then plant then with the roots or fingers pointed downward at a depth of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm), depending on the size of the bulbs.
It is an easy flower to grow. Care of Ranunculus to ensure yearly displays may require that you pull out the tubers at the end of the season.
Allow the foliage to almost completely die back and then dig out the tubers. Lay them in a cool, dry place to evaporate all the moisture from the bulbs. Store the tubers in a dark location until spring and then start them indoors in pots. Replant outside when all danger of frost is passed and the first true leaves are evident.
Plants require temperatures of no more than 60 F. (16 C.) during the day and 45 to 50 °F (7 to 10 °C) at night to break dormancy and begin sprouting. Plants may survive as perennials in Zone 7 if you mulch lightly around the bases. Follow these suggestions when growing Ranunculus flowers for garden displays or cut flowers and you will reap the rewards year after year.
They produce cheery multi-petaled flowers. The almost unpronounceable name covers a large group of perennials from Asia and Europe. The plants aren’t very hardy and may be annual in colder zones. They are easily damaged by temperatures below 28°F (-2°C), and thrive best in USDA zones 8 to 10.
A colorful field of flowers livens up the landscape and is easy to achieve with Ranunculus plants. Ranunculus bulbs come in several sizes and are best planted 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Using Ranunculus for the garden will reward the grower with an abundance of color and texture from early spring into the first month of summer. Ranunculus for the garden come in an array of colors from white, red and gold to orange, yellow and pink. The flowers boast layers of petals and will develop up to 12 inches (30 cm) in height. You can choose standard sized Ranunculus plants or dwarf specimens, which only get 8 inches (20 cm) high. Some varieties will produce flowers that span 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) in width. You may start Ranunculus bulbs directly outdoors or purchase started transplants at a nursery. The tubers must be soaked prior to planting for best results. Use the plants in borders, containers and wildflower fields. The thick rosettes will last for a week or more when used as cut flowers. Plant bulbs outside in fall in warmer zones and start them indoors in pots in cooler climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Growing Ranunculus flowers starts with planted roots or tubers. Often called Ranunculus bulbs, tubers are different but have similar structures and purposes to the more common bulb. Plant the bulbs or tubers in fall for a glorious spring display.
Growing Ranunculus flowers requires well-drained soil and full sun for best results.
Soak the tubers and then plant then with the roots or fingers pointed downward at a depth of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm), depending on the size of the bulbs.
It is an easy flower to grow. Care of Ranunculus to ensure yearly displays may require that you pull out the tubers at the end of the season.
Allow the foliage to almost completely die back and then dig out the tubers. Lay them in a cool, dry place to evaporate all the moisture from the bulbs. Store the tubers in a dark location until spring and then start them indoors in pots. Replant outside when all danger of frost is passed and the first true leaves are evident.
Plants require temperatures of no more than 60 F. (16 C.) during the day and 45 to 50 °F (7 to 10 °C) at night to break dormancy and begin sprouting. Plants may survive as perennials in Zone 7 if you mulch lightly around the bases. Follow these suggestions when growing Ranunculus flowers for garden displays or cut flowers and you will reap the rewards year after year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
The odds are that the lush, potted Geraniums brightening your patio are not True Geraniums (Geranium sp.); the nursery plants sold as Geraniums are actually of the genus Pelargonium. While True Geraniums are frost-hardy perennials generally planted in flower beds, Pelargoniums are often container plants and, although also perennials, require more care in cold temperatures. Easy-going, versatile plants, they add a splash of vibrant color throughout the summer season in pots, hanging baskets and window boxes in Mediterranean climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Work organic compost into high-quality container potting soil that contains ingredients such as peat moss, vermiculite and perlite. Use this compost/soil mixture to fill pots for your Pelargoniums. Good drainage is essential to Pelargoniums so choose containers with adequate drainage holes. If your Pelargoniums are already in pots, spread organic compost lightly on the soil surface and work in, taking care not to dig up the plant’s roots.
Choose locations getting direct sun for most Pelargoniums. They need at least six hours of sun daily. Martha Washington and Regal types prefer a site that is shady in the afternoon. All Pelargoniums need afternoon shade if your area regularly sees summer temperatures exceeding 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius).
Feed your Pelargoniums every two weeks with a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Buy fertilizer that dissolves in water for easier application. Every third watering, add Epsom salts — magnesium sulfate — to the plant water — 1 teaspoon per 1 gallon — to provide magnesium. Or, add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil mix when you plant the geraniums in the pot — it feeds them all season.
Water your potted Pelargoniums until the excess runs out the drainage holes, then allow the potting soil to dry before watering again. In hot summer temperatures, poke a finger 2 inches (5 cm) into the soil in the container every day and get out the watering can if the soil is dry. Water plants in the morning instead of evening to reduce disease.
Snip off the faded flowers of potted Pelargoniums. Deadheading your plants helps them produce new flowers more rapidly. At the same time, trim stems by one-third to encourage branching. Pinch off dead and discolored leaves.
Cut back your Pelargoniums by about two-thirds if and when the weather drops below 45°F (7°C). Move the pots indoors to a sunny, south-facing window that gets at least four hours a day of direct sun. Stop fertilizing and limit water to once a week, keeping the plants on the dry side, while they are in the house. Begin to add fertilizer to the plant water again when you see new growth in late winter or early spring. As spring arrives, move your potted Pelargoniums outside gradually, adding a little more time each day to allow them to acclimate to cooler air.
Grower’s Tips
True Pelargoniums are cold-hardy and drought tolerant. Different cultivars do well in sun or shade. Most need afternoon shade in hot climates.
Put Pelargonium containers in a cemented-over backyard area, if you have one. The flowers mask the cement and flourish from the extra warmth of reflected sun.
Make your backyard garden different each year by rearranging your container plants in new and exotic ways. Try new plant combinations and change to larger containers. Experiment with Ivy Geraniums (Pelargonium peltatum). This fast-growing, trailing geranium grows year-round in Mediterranean climates.
Try Scented Geraniums for their lovely smells, including rose, lemon and mint. Pick and dry their fragrant leaves as a welcome addition to potpourri.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Work organic compost into high-quality container potting soil that contains ingredients such as peat moss, vermiculite and perlite. Use this compost/soil mixture to fill pots for your Pelargoniums. Good drainage is essential to Pelargoniums so choose containers with adequate drainage holes. If your Pelargoniums are already in pots, spread organic compost lightly on the soil surface and work in, taking care not to dig up the plant’s roots.
Choose locations getting direct sun for most Pelargoniums. They need at least six hours of sun daily. Martha Washington and Regal types prefer a site that is shady in the afternoon. All Pelargoniums need afternoon shade if your area regularly sees summer temperatures exceeding 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius).
Feed your Pelargoniums every two weeks with a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Buy fertilizer that dissolves in water for easier application. Every third watering, add Epsom salts — magnesium sulfate — to the plant water — 1 teaspoon per 1 gallon — to provide magnesium. Or, add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil mix when you plant the geraniums in the pot — it feeds them all season.
Water your potted Pelargoniums until the excess runs out the drainage holes, then allow the potting soil to dry before watering again. In hot summer temperatures, poke a finger 2 inches (5 cm) into the soil in the container every day and get out the watering can if the soil is dry. Water plants in the morning instead of evening to reduce disease.
Snip off the faded flowers of potted Pelargoniums. Deadheading your plants helps them produce new flowers more rapidly. At the same time, trim stems by one-third to encourage branching. Pinch off dead and discolored leaves.
Cut back your Pelargoniums by about two-thirds if and when the weather drops below 45°F (7°C). Move the pots indoors to a sunny, south-facing window that gets at least four hours a day of direct sun. Stop fertilizing and limit water to once a week, keeping the plants on the dry side, while they are in the house. Begin to add fertilizer to the plant water again when you see new growth in late winter or early spring. As spring arrives, move your potted Pelargoniums outside gradually, adding a little more time each day to allow them to acclimate to cooler air.
Grower’s Tips
True Pelargoniums are cold-hardy and drought tolerant. Different cultivars do well in sun or shade. Most need afternoon shade in hot climates.
Put Pelargonium containers in a cemented-over backyard area, if you have one. The flowers mask the cement and flourish from the extra warmth of reflected sun.
Make your backyard garden different each year by rearranging your container plants in new and exotic ways. Try new plant combinations and change to larger containers. Experiment with Ivy Geraniums (Pelargonium peltatum). This fast-growing, trailing geranium grows year-round in Mediterranean climates.
Try Scented Geraniums for their lovely smells, including rose, lemon and mint. Pick and dry their fragrant leaves as a welcome addition to potpourri.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Nymphaea is a genus of hardy and tender aquatic plants in the family Nymphaeaceae. Many species are cultivated as ornamental plants, and many cultivars have been bred. Plants of the genus are known commonly as Water Lilies.
There are about 50 species of Water Lily plants, inhabiting every part of the world. Water Lilies are tuberous growing plants that can be planted in pots and submerged in your pond or even in a tub on your patio, where they will send up round, floating leaves and beautiful, sometimes fragrant, star shaped flowers to the surface.
Tropical Water Lilies require more specialized care, which varies considerably, but they all require 70°F (21°C) water temperatures. The upside of growing tropical varieties is that they typically fragrant, have larger flowers, and come in some really hot, exotic colors. Several species of tropical Water Lily are night blooming as well!
Hardy Water Lilies are very durable and easy to grow water plants for the beginner. They will bloom continuously from spring until fall if dead flower stems are removed at the soil level regularly. Each flower will open at dawn and close at dusk, for 3-4 days before and sinking from sight and fruiting.
Most commonly available Water Lily plants are hybrids bred for several North American species. Some species of Water Lilies can become a weed in some areas, so beware!
Growing Conditions
Like any other perennial, each different Water Lily may have specific needs when it comes to their sunlight, soil, fertilization, water depth and pruning requirements. When shopping for Water Lilies, be sure to check the requirements of that specific plant, before you decide that you must have it! Generally, Water Lilies require a minimum of four to five hours of full sun each day to produce the most blooms. They should be planted in a large, wide pot, using a slightly acidic mixture of clay and loam with a pH of 6.1-7.0. Commercial potting mixes often contain amendments that float, so if you are using a commercial mix be sure that it is specifically for aquatic plants! Adding a few goldfish to your pond will take care of most insect pests that attack aquatic plants as well as devouring the mosquito larvae.
Planting
When planting, use a suitable container that is wide (12 to 18 inches / 30 to 45 cm) and shallow (8 to 10 inches / 20 to 25 cm). Before planting, press 3-4 aquatic fertilizer pellets down into the soil. The rhizome grows out horizontally, like that of an Iris, so rather than centering them in the pot, they should be set near the edge of the pot, pointed to the center, with the growing tip pointing slightly upward. Cover the soil with a 1 inch (2.5 cm) layer of small rocks or pea gravel to keep the soil in place. Lower the pot into the pond at an angle to allow it to fill with water gradually. The planter can be set at a 6 inches (15 cm) depth initially to give new growth a jump start. As soon as the first foliage hits the surface, it should be moved to a depth appropriate for the species or variety. Normally, smaller types should be set so that the rim of the pot is 18 inches (45 cm) below the water surface, and large varieties should be set at a minimum of 36 inches (90 cm). In all cases, make sure the roots are below the freeze line of the water, unless you plan on storing the rhizomes over winter. Water lilies should be fed at the beginning of the summer and again at mid season using aquatic plant fertilizer tablets which are pressed into the soil.
All tropical Water Lily species will need to over-winter in a heated area! If your pond or tub freezes solid in winter, you will have to lift the pot and store it indoors for the winter. Remove all dead and dying foliage. Lift the planter from the pond and store the entire pot in a plastic bag, in a cool area. Optionally, you can remove and clean the rhizomes and store them in moist peat moss at 40 to 50 °F (4 to 10 °C).
Propagation
Hardy Water Lilies should be divided every 2-3 years, depending on the planter size. Remove the soil from the planter with a water hose to expose the rhizomes. Divide the tuber-like rhizomes and replant them in the spring or summer.
There are about 50 species of Water Lily plants, inhabiting every part of the world. Water Lilies are tuberous growing plants that can be planted in pots and submerged in your pond or even in a tub on your patio, where they will send up round, floating leaves and beautiful, sometimes fragrant, star shaped flowers to the surface.
Tropical Water Lilies require more specialized care, which varies considerably, but they all require 70°F (21°C) water temperatures. The upside of growing tropical varieties is that they typically fragrant, have larger flowers, and come in some really hot, exotic colors. Several species of tropical Water Lily are night blooming as well!
Hardy Water Lilies are very durable and easy to grow water plants for the beginner. They will bloom continuously from spring until fall if dead flower stems are removed at the soil level regularly. Each flower will open at dawn and close at dusk, for 3-4 days before and sinking from sight and fruiting.
Most commonly available Water Lily plants are hybrids bred for several North American species. Some species of Water Lilies can become a weed in some areas, so beware!
Growing Conditions
Like any other perennial, each different Water Lily may have specific needs when it comes to their sunlight, soil, fertilization, water depth and pruning requirements. When shopping for Water Lilies, be sure to check the requirements of that specific plant, before you decide that you must have it! Generally, Water Lilies require a minimum of four to five hours of full sun each day to produce the most blooms. They should be planted in a large, wide pot, using a slightly acidic mixture of clay and loam with a pH of 6.1-7.0. Commercial potting mixes often contain amendments that float, so if you are using a commercial mix be sure that it is specifically for aquatic plants! Adding a few goldfish to your pond will take care of most insect pests that attack aquatic plants as well as devouring the mosquito larvae.
Planting
When planting, use a suitable container that is wide (12 to 18 inches / 30 to 45 cm) and shallow (8 to 10 inches / 20 to 25 cm). Before planting, press 3-4 aquatic fertilizer pellets down into the soil. The rhizome grows out horizontally, like that of an Iris, so rather than centering them in the pot, they should be set near the edge of the pot, pointed to the center, with the growing tip pointing slightly upward. Cover the soil with a 1 inch (2.5 cm) layer of small rocks or pea gravel to keep the soil in place. Lower the pot into the pond at an angle to allow it to fill with water gradually. The planter can be set at a 6 inches (15 cm) depth initially to give new growth a jump start. As soon as the first foliage hits the surface, it should be moved to a depth appropriate for the species or variety. Normally, smaller types should be set so that the rim of the pot is 18 inches (45 cm) below the water surface, and large varieties should be set at a minimum of 36 inches (90 cm). In all cases, make sure the roots are below the freeze line of the water, unless you plan on storing the rhizomes over winter. Water lilies should be fed at the beginning of the summer and again at mid season using aquatic plant fertilizer tablets which are pressed into the soil.
All tropical Water Lily species will need to over-winter in a heated area! If your pond or tub freezes solid in winter, you will have to lift the pot and store it indoors for the winter. Remove all dead and dying foliage. Lift the planter from the pond and store the entire pot in a plastic bag, in a cool area. Optionally, you can remove and clean the rhizomes and store them in moist peat moss at 40 to 50 °F (4 to 10 °C).
Propagation
Hardy Water Lilies should be divided every 2-3 years, depending on the planter size. Remove the soil from the planter with a water hose to expose the rhizomes. Divide the tuber-like rhizomes and replant them in the spring or summer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Some of the most popular orchid plants among home growers are Dendrobium orchids These showy flowers are relatively easy to grow, with a central long stem and an attractive spray of flowers that can last up to four weeks.
There are many Dendrobium varieties, and each one has slightly different growing conditions. Luckily, with all the types of Dendrobium orchids to choose from, there is likely to be one that fits your home environment perfectly.
Dendrobium is sort of the catch-all of orchid species. When you look for Dendrobium orchid info, you can find whole books devoted to each of the different types of Dendrobium orchids that can fall into this category. In general, though, you can separate them in a few different groups.
Sheer beginners will love Nobile orchids. These hybrids go dormant for a couple of months in the winter, losing some of their leaves in the process. These plants can have up to 50 blooms on one stem, making for a stunning floral display. Growers have perfected the Nobile hybrids so closely that they can even cause them to bloom for any requested holiday. If you’re looking for an orchid with lots of helpful information available about it, this is the one to choose.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Although there is a huge variety from which to choose, when it comes to learning how to grow Dendrobium orchids, there are two important rules that they all follow.
First, they like to live in little pots with their roots crowded into a tiny area. If you try to be nice and give them room to spread out, the roots are likely to stay too moist and begin to rot. If you don’t like the look of a large plant growing in a ridiculously small pot, camouflage it in a larger planter.
The other way to care for Dendrobium orchids is to give them as much bright light as possible. This doesn’t mean sticking them in the desert sunlight, but a south-facing window in the house is the place where they will thrive. In almost all cases, when your Dendrobium orchid isn’t flowering, it’s a case of not enough sunlight.
There are many Dendrobium varieties, and each one has slightly different growing conditions. Luckily, with all the types of Dendrobium orchids to choose from, there is likely to be one that fits your home environment perfectly.
Dendrobium is sort of the catch-all of orchid species. When you look for Dendrobium orchid info, you can find whole books devoted to each of the different types of Dendrobium orchids that can fall into this category. In general, though, you can separate them in a few different groups.
Sheer beginners will love Nobile orchids. These hybrids go dormant for a couple of months in the winter, losing some of their leaves in the process. These plants can have up to 50 blooms on one stem, making for a stunning floral display. Growers have perfected the Nobile hybrids so closely that they can even cause them to bloom for any requested holiday. If you’re looking for an orchid with lots of helpful information available about it, this is the one to choose.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Although there is a huge variety from which to choose, when it comes to learning how to grow Dendrobium orchids, there are two important rules that they all follow.
First, they like to live in little pots with their roots crowded into a tiny area. If you try to be nice and give them room to spread out, the roots are likely to stay too moist and begin to rot. If you don’t like the look of a large plant growing in a ridiculously small pot, camouflage it in a larger planter.
The other way to care for Dendrobium orchids is to give them as much bright light as possible. This doesn’t mean sticking them in the desert sunlight, but a south-facing window in the house is the place where they will thrive. In almost all cases, when your Dendrobium orchid isn’t flowering, it’s a case of not enough sunlight.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Solidago, commonly called Goldenrod, is a genus of about 120 species of flowering plants in the Aster Family, Asteraceae. Topped with plumes of fluffy yellow flowers, Goldenrod is sometimes considered a weed.
Unknowing gardeners may find it a nuisance and wonder, “What is the plant Goldenrod good for?” Goldenrod plants have multiple uses, from providing shelter to larvae of beneficial insects to attracting butterflies. Learn how to grow goldenrod and experience the many benefits.
After learning the many benefits of planting Goldenrod and the simplicity of Goldenrod care, you may wish to include it near your garden. Goldenrod plants provide nectar for migrating butterflies and bees, encouraging them to remain in the area and pollinate your crops. Planting Goldenrod near the vegetable garden can draw bad bugs away from valuable vegetables. Goldenrods attract beneficial insects as well, which may do away with damaging insects when they approach the food source offered by these plants. More than a hundred varieties of Goldenrod exist, with one for every climate. Many are native to the United States.
Goldenrod plants are clump-forming perennial wildflowers that exist on rainwater and add a golden beauty to the landscape. Often thought of as the cause of summer allergies, the species is falsely accused, as the pollen from allergy-creating ragweed is present at the time of Goldenrod blooms. All Goldenrods are late bloomers, flowering in late summer throughout fall with stunning bright yellow flowers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Growing and planting Goldenrod is easy, as this plant will survive just about anywhere, though it does prefer to be grown in full sun. Goldenrod also tolerates various soil types as long as it’s well draining.
Goldenrod care is minimal once established in the landscape, with plants returning each year. They require little, if any watering, and are drought tolerant.
Clumps need division every four to five years. Cuttings may also be taken in spring and planted in the garden.
Learning how to grow Goldenrod offers many advantages. Bad bugs can be drawn to the plant and consumed by beneficial insects that hatch their young there. Planting Goldenrod adds beauty and attracts butterflies to your landscape.
Unknowing gardeners may find it a nuisance and wonder, “What is the plant Goldenrod good for?” Goldenrod plants have multiple uses, from providing shelter to larvae of beneficial insects to attracting butterflies. Learn how to grow goldenrod and experience the many benefits.
After learning the many benefits of planting Goldenrod and the simplicity of Goldenrod care, you may wish to include it near your garden. Goldenrod plants provide nectar for migrating butterflies and bees, encouraging them to remain in the area and pollinate your crops. Planting Goldenrod near the vegetable garden can draw bad bugs away from valuable vegetables. Goldenrods attract beneficial insects as well, which may do away with damaging insects when they approach the food source offered by these plants. More than a hundred varieties of Goldenrod exist, with one for every climate. Many are native to the United States.
Goldenrod plants are clump-forming perennial wildflowers that exist on rainwater and add a golden beauty to the landscape. Often thought of as the cause of summer allergies, the species is falsely accused, as the pollen from allergy-creating ragweed is present at the time of Goldenrod blooms. All Goldenrods are late bloomers, flowering in late summer throughout fall with stunning bright yellow flowers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Growing and planting Goldenrod is easy, as this plant will survive just about anywhere, though it does prefer to be grown in full sun. Goldenrod also tolerates various soil types as long as it’s well draining.
Goldenrod care is minimal once established in the landscape, with plants returning each year. They require little, if any watering, and are drought tolerant.
Clumps need division every four to five years. Cuttings may also be taken in spring and planted in the garden.
Learning how to grow Goldenrod offers many advantages. Bad bugs can be drawn to the plant and consumed by beneficial insects that hatch their young there. Planting Goldenrod adds beauty and attracts butterflies to your landscape.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Chicory (Cichorium intybus) is an herbaceous biennial that is not native to the United States but has made itself at home. The plant can be found growing wild in many areas of the U.S. and is used both for its leaves and its roots. Chicory herb plants are easy to grow in the garden as a cool season crop. Seeds and transplants are the primary means of growing Chicory.
There are two types of Chicory plant. Whitloof is grown for the large root, which is used to make a coffee supplement. It can also be forced to use the tender white leaves called Belgian Endive. Radicchio is grown for the leaves, which may be in a tight head or a loosely packed bunch. Radicchio is best harvested very young before it turns bitter.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Seeds can be started indoors five to six weeks before they are moved outdoors. In warm climates, sowing outdoors or transplanting occurs September through March. Planting Chicory in cooler climates should be done three to four weeks before the danger of frost has passed.
Sow Chicory seeds 6 to 10 inches (15 to 25 cm) apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet (60 to 0) apart. You can always thin the plants if they crowd each other but close planting discourages weeds. The seeds are planted ¼ inch (6 mm) deep and thinning is done when the plants have three to four true leaves.
You can also sow a crop for fall harvest if you choose a variety that has an early maturation date. Planting Chicory seed 75 to 85 days before anticipated harvest will ensure a late crop.
Chicory plants that are to be forced for blanched leaves will need to have the roots dug up before the first frost. Cut the leaves to 1 inch (2.5 cm) and store the roots for three to seven weeks in the refrigerator before forcing. Plant the roots individually after chilling to force the leaves to grow in a tight, blanched head.
Learning how to grow Chicory is similar to learning how to grow most lettuces or greens. The cultivation is very similar. It requires well drained soil with plenty of organic matter. It performs best when temperatures are below 75 °F (24 °C).
Extended care of the Chicory crop requires vigilant weeding and a mulch to prevent moisture loss and further weed growth. It requires 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of water per week or enough to keep the soil evenly moist and reduce the chance of drought stress.
Chicory is fertilized with ¼-cup of nitrogen based fertilizer such as a 21-0-0 per 10 feet (3 m) of row. This is applied approximately 4 weeks after transplant or once the plants have been thinned.
Growing Chicory as a forced vegetable necessitates row covers or individual plantings that are kept from light.
There are two types of Chicory plant. Whitloof is grown for the large root, which is used to make a coffee supplement. It can also be forced to use the tender white leaves called Belgian Endive. Radicchio is grown for the leaves, which may be in a tight head or a loosely packed bunch. Radicchio is best harvested very young before it turns bitter.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Seeds can be started indoors five to six weeks before they are moved outdoors. In warm climates, sowing outdoors or transplanting occurs September through March. Planting Chicory in cooler climates should be done three to four weeks before the danger of frost has passed.
Sow Chicory seeds 6 to 10 inches (15 to 25 cm) apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet (60 to 0) apart. You can always thin the plants if they crowd each other but close planting discourages weeds. The seeds are planted ¼ inch (6 mm) deep and thinning is done when the plants have three to four true leaves.
You can also sow a crop for fall harvest if you choose a variety that has an early maturation date. Planting Chicory seed 75 to 85 days before anticipated harvest will ensure a late crop.
Chicory plants that are to be forced for blanched leaves will need to have the roots dug up before the first frost. Cut the leaves to 1 inch (2.5 cm) and store the roots for three to seven weeks in the refrigerator before forcing. Plant the roots individually after chilling to force the leaves to grow in a tight, blanched head.
Learning how to grow Chicory is similar to learning how to grow most lettuces or greens. The cultivation is very similar. It requires well drained soil with plenty of organic matter. It performs best when temperatures are below 75 °F (24 °C).
Extended care of the Chicory crop requires vigilant weeding and a mulch to prevent moisture loss and further weed growth. It requires 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of water per week or enough to keep the soil evenly moist and reduce the chance of drought stress.
Chicory is fertilized with ¼-cup of nitrogen based fertilizer such as a 21-0-0 per 10 feet (3 m) of row. This is applied approximately 4 weeks after transplant or once the plants have been thinned.
Growing Chicory as a forced vegetable necessitates row covers or individual plantings that are kept from light.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Coreopsis are native American prairie and woodland plants. Their ruggedness and profuse blooms have made them popular with plant breeders and there are over 100 different species available, although not all are perennial plants.
Low maintenance, drought tolerant and long blooming, Coreopsis are work horses in a sunny flower border. Their common name, “Tickseed”, is supposedly for the seeds resemblance to ticks. That doesn’t stop the birds from devouring them, if you leave the seed heads on during the winter.
Most Coreopsis are clump forming, holding their daisy-like flowers on tall stems, above the foliage. There the similarity ends. There is a good amount of variety among Coreopsis species.
Growing Conditions
Light: Coreopsis will bloom best in full sun, but it can also be successfully grown in partial shade. The plants may get a bit lankier in partial shade, but they will adapt. In areas with intense dry, heat, plants may even prefer some afternoon shade.
Water: They will need regular water when first planted, until they are established.
Temperature: Most of the perennial Coreopsis are hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9.
Soil: They are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH.
Fertilizer: Fertilization of growing Coreopsis is not needed, and too much fertilizer may limit flower production.
Grower’s Tips
Most varieties are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH. Many can be grown from seed, either started indoors, 4-6 weeks before your last expected frost, or direct seeded outdoors. Many will seed themselves, however the hybrid varieties do not grow true to seed.
Coreopsis will need regular water when first planted, until they are established. After that, they are quite drought tolerant.
Deadheading will keep the plants blooming throughout the summer. Some of the smaller flowered varieties are difficult to deadhead and you may prefer to shear the plants, once the first flush of flowers fade. They will fill in quickly.
Most Coreopsis plants will form tidy clumps, but some of the taller species may require staking to look attractive, especially if grown in partial shade.
Although they are rugged plants, they don’t tend to live more than 3 to 5 years. A decrease in flowering is a signal it is time to divide the plants or plant some new ones from seed.
Pests and Diseases
For the most part, Coreopsis grow problem free. In damp seasons they many fall prey to snails and slugs and fungal diseases can affect them. To avoid these problems as much as possible, give them plenty of air circulation and plant them in full sun.
Low maintenance, drought tolerant and long blooming, Coreopsis are work horses in a sunny flower border. Their common name, “Tickseed”, is supposedly for the seeds resemblance to ticks. That doesn’t stop the birds from devouring them, if you leave the seed heads on during the winter.
Most Coreopsis are clump forming, holding their daisy-like flowers on tall stems, above the foliage. There the similarity ends. There is a good amount of variety among Coreopsis species.
Growing Conditions
Light: Coreopsis will bloom best in full sun, but it can also be successfully grown in partial shade. The plants may get a bit lankier in partial shade, but they will adapt. In areas with intense dry, heat, plants may even prefer some afternoon shade.
Water: They will need regular water when first planted, until they are established.
Temperature: Most of the perennial Coreopsis are hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9.
Soil: They are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH.
Fertilizer: Fertilization of growing Coreopsis is not needed, and too much fertilizer may limit flower production.
Grower’s Tips
Most varieties are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH. Many can be grown from seed, either started indoors, 4-6 weeks before your last expected frost, or direct seeded outdoors. Many will seed themselves, however the hybrid varieties do not grow true to seed.
Coreopsis will need regular water when first planted, until they are established. After that, they are quite drought tolerant.
Deadheading will keep the plants blooming throughout the summer. Some of the smaller flowered varieties are difficult to deadhead and you may prefer to shear the plants, once the first flush of flowers fade. They will fill in quickly.
Most Coreopsis plants will form tidy clumps, but some of the taller species may require staking to look attractive, especially if grown in partial shade.
Although they are rugged plants, they don’t tend to live more than 3 to 5 years. A decrease in flowering is a signal it is time to divide the plants or plant some new ones from seed.
Pests and Diseases
For the most part, Coreopsis grow problem free. In damp seasons they many fall prey to snails and slugs and fungal diseases can affect them. To avoid these problems as much as possible, give them plenty of air circulation and plant them in full sun.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dianthus also known as Pinks are flowering plants that belong to a family of plants which includes Carnations and are characterized by the spicy fragrance the blooms emit. They may be found as a hardy annual, biennial or perennial and most often used in borders or potted displays.
The Dianthus plant is also called Sweet William (D. barbatus) and has a fragrance with Cinnamon or Clove notes. The plants are small and usually between 6 and 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) tall. Dianthus flowers are most often in pink, salmon, red and white hues. The foliage is slender and sparsely spread on thick stems.
Dianthus had a short blooming season until 1971, when a breeder learned how to grow forms that did not set seed and, therefore, had a prolonged their bloom period. Modern varieties will typically bloom from May to October.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Plant Pinks in full sun, partial shade or anywhere they will receive at least 6 hours of sun. The plants need fertile, well-drained soil that is alkaline.
Wait until the danger of frost has passed when planting Dianthus and place them at the same level they were growing in the pots, with 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45) between the plants. Do not mulch around them. Water them only at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry and prevent mildew spotting.
Instructions on how to care for Dianthus are very straightforward. Water the plants when dry and apply fertilizer every six to eight weeks. You may also work a slow-release fertilizer into the soil at planting, which will release you from the need to feed the plants.
Propagation
Some varieties of Dianthus are self-sowing, so deadheading is extremely important to reduce volunteer plants and to encourage additional blooming. Perennial varieties are short lived and should be propagated by division, tip cuttings or even layering. Dianthus seed is also readily available at garden centers and may be started indoors six to eight weeks before the danger of frost has passed.
The Dianthus plant is also called Sweet William (D. barbatus) and has a fragrance with Cinnamon or Clove notes. The plants are small and usually between 6 and 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) tall. Dianthus flowers are most often in pink, salmon, red and white hues. The foliage is slender and sparsely spread on thick stems.
Dianthus had a short blooming season until 1971, when a breeder learned how to grow forms that did not set seed and, therefore, had a prolonged their bloom period. Modern varieties will typically bloom from May to October.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Plant Pinks in full sun, partial shade or anywhere they will receive at least 6 hours of sun. The plants need fertile, well-drained soil that is alkaline.
Wait until the danger of frost has passed when planting Dianthus and place them at the same level they were growing in the pots, with 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45) between the plants. Do not mulch around them. Water them only at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry and prevent mildew spotting.
Instructions on how to care for Dianthus are very straightforward. Water the plants when dry and apply fertilizer every six to eight weeks. You may also work a slow-release fertilizer into the soil at planting, which will release you from the need to feed the plants.
Propagation
Some varieties of Dianthus are self-sowing, so deadheading is extremely important to reduce volunteer plants and to encourage additional blooming. Perennial varieties are short lived and should be propagated by division, tip cuttings or even layering. Dianthus seed is also readily available at garden centers and may be started indoors six to eight weeks before the danger of frost has passed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Proteas are native to southern Africa and belong to the same family of plants (the family Proteaceae) as the Australian-grown Banksias, Grevilleas and Waratahs.
They are often seen as temperamental and difficult plants to grow, but the truth is that Proteas are relatively easy as long as you follow a few simple rules.
Selecting
Seek advice from your local nursery on which type of Protea grows best in your area.
Soil Requirements
Most Proteas prefer soils that are well-drained and acidic and we suggest to avoid heavy clay soils, as they need good drainage for healthy root growth. If you have a garden with heavy or clay soil, consider improving the drainage by using a free draining garden mix and either creating a raised garden bed (minimum height 12 to 18 inches / 30 to 45 cm) or installing underground drainage pipes.
Planting
We recommended planting in autumn or spring, allowing the Proteas to absorb as much sun as possible. For best results, allow plenty of space between plants for air to circulate and avoid planting any Proteas deeper than the surface level in the pot.
Fertilizing
We suggest avoided any use of fertilizer when planting out Proteas, as they have a specially adapted system of fine roots (called ‘proteoid’ roots) which will develop naturally to seek out available nutrients in the soil. For necessary fertilization during early stages of growth, use a local plant fertilizer – either a very mild solution of a soluble fertilizer or coated slow release pellets, with low or zero phosphorus. Maturing Proteas may also need fertilizing, especially if the type of soil in your garden is free draining.
Watering
Protea root systems must be kept lightly moist until the plants are well established (this can be up to 18 months or more). The frequency of watering will depend on soil type and climatic conditions, however mature Proteas only require deep watering once a week during dry spells, or once a fortnight during a dry winter.
Mulching and Weed Control
We suggest using natural mulches of around 4 inches (10 cm) thickness, such as leaves, wood chips or general shredded garden waste, as they help to retain moisture and look great in the garden. Avoid fresh young mulching materials which tend to draw nitrogen out of the soil as they rot, causing harmful fungi.
Be sure to keep mulching materials away from Protea stems as this may cause them to rot.
Pruning
Proteas can be lightly pruned during the first 12 months to give a good shape and to help them establish resistance to strong winds. Mature Proteas should not be severely pruned as this may permanently damage them.
Cut Flowers
We recommend cutting the flower stems as long as possible, ensuring that there is foliage remaining on the stem below the cut. Fresh cut flowers can be maintained by regularly cutting 0.4 to 0.8 inch (1 to 2 cm) off the bottom of the stems and frequently changing the water. For best results, add a quarter teaspoon of household bleach to every liter of fresh water.
For dried arrangements, flowers can be hung upside down in a dark place with some air circulation. This will help to retain more color and prevent the growth of mold.
Proteas as Pot Plants
It is possible to grow the smaller varieties of Proteas in containers using a coarse well-drained native potting mix and keeping the plants in a sunny position with plenty of air circulation. Avoid over-fertilizing or letting the container dry out.
They are often seen as temperamental and difficult plants to grow, but the truth is that Proteas are relatively easy as long as you follow a few simple rules.
Selecting
Seek advice from your local nursery on which type of Protea grows best in your area.
Soil Requirements
Most Proteas prefer soils that are well-drained and acidic and we suggest to avoid heavy clay soils, as they need good drainage for healthy root growth. If you have a garden with heavy or clay soil, consider improving the drainage by using a free draining garden mix and either creating a raised garden bed (minimum height 12 to 18 inches / 30 to 45 cm) or installing underground drainage pipes.
Planting
We recommended planting in autumn or spring, allowing the Proteas to absorb as much sun as possible. For best results, allow plenty of space between plants for air to circulate and avoid planting any Proteas deeper than the surface level in the pot.
Fertilizing
We suggest avoided any use of fertilizer when planting out Proteas, as they have a specially adapted system of fine roots (called ‘proteoid’ roots) which will develop naturally to seek out available nutrients in the soil. For necessary fertilization during early stages of growth, use a local plant fertilizer – either a very mild solution of a soluble fertilizer or coated slow release pellets, with low or zero phosphorus. Maturing Proteas may also need fertilizing, especially if the type of soil in your garden is free draining.
Watering
Protea root systems must be kept lightly moist until the plants are well established (this can be up to 18 months or more). The frequency of watering will depend on soil type and climatic conditions, however mature Proteas only require deep watering once a week during dry spells, or once a fortnight during a dry winter.
Mulching and Weed Control
We suggest using natural mulches of around 4 inches (10 cm) thickness, such as leaves, wood chips or general shredded garden waste, as they help to retain moisture and look great in the garden. Avoid fresh young mulching materials which tend to draw nitrogen out of the soil as they rot, causing harmful fungi.
Be sure to keep mulching materials away from Protea stems as this may cause them to rot.
Pruning
Proteas can be lightly pruned during the first 12 months to give a good shape and to help them establish resistance to strong winds. Mature Proteas should not be severely pruned as this may permanently damage them.
Cut Flowers
We recommend cutting the flower stems as long as possible, ensuring that there is foliage remaining on the stem below the cut. Fresh cut flowers can be maintained by regularly cutting 0.4 to 0.8 inch (1 to 2 cm) off the bottom of the stems and frequently changing the water. For best results, add a quarter teaspoon of household bleach to every liter of fresh water.
For dried arrangements, flowers can be hung upside down in a dark place with some air circulation. This will help to retain more color and prevent the growth of mold.
Proteas as Pot Plants
It is possible to grow the smaller varieties of Proteas in containers using a coarse well-drained native potting mix and keeping the plants in a sunny position with plenty of air circulation. Avoid over-fertilizing or letting the container dry out.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis sylvatica) make excellent indoor container plants, requiring little care to maintain their gray-green foliage and clusters of tiny, light-blue flowers that appear throughout spring and early summer. The plants perform best in moist but well-drained soil. So a light, standard potting mix works well. Because Forget-Me-Not require plenty of air circulation, grow each plant individually in its own 12-inch/-30 cm-diameter container with bottom drainage holes. The plants are pest-resistant and even grow in nutrient-poor soil. So fertilizing them isn’t necessary. Forget-Me-Not is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Place Forget-Me-Not in a south or east-facing window, where they receive full or partial sunlight.
Water the soil deeply when its top 3 inches (7.5 cm) feels dry to your touch, watering until the water drips through the bottom of the pots. Don’t allow the plants to stand in water. Reduce watering to about once or twice each month in winter, while the plants are dormant. Resume normal watering in spring.
Remove the plants’ spent, or old, flowers, at their stems, pinching them off with your fingernails. Throw away the removed flowers. Removing spent flowers encourages new blooms to form.
Fertilize the Forget-Me-Not once each month only if their leaves appear wilted or yellow or the plants grow very slowly during spring or summer. Mix 1 teaspoon of 5-10-10, water-soluble fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture to fertilize the plants in place of one watering session, applying only the amount you normally would use to water the plants. Don’t fertilize during winter while the plants are dormant.
Trim off all dead foliage and dead stems throughout the growing season as well as during winter after the plants die back. Use pruning shears or scissors for the task.
Propagation
If starting off Forget-Me-Not and other Myosotis plants indoors then start about 2 months in advance. The seeds of Forget-Me-Not should be sown in vermiculite. It will take from one to four weeks to germinate at 64 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 20 degrees Celsius) in the dark. It is necessary to water the Forget-Me-Nots from below to stop them rotting. Once seedlings are ready transplant into the garden and grow about 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart.
Pests and Diseases
Insects and disease are not too common. If problems arise, treat early with insecticides or fungicides as appropriate.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Place Forget-Me-Not in a south or east-facing window, where they receive full or partial sunlight.
Water the soil deeply when its top 3 inches (7.5 cm) feels dry to your touch, watering until the water drips through the bottom of the pots. Don’t allow the plants to stand in water. Reduce watering to about once or twice each month in winter, while the plants are dormant. Resume normal watering in spring.
Remove the plants’ spent, or old, flowers, at their stems, pinching them off with your fingernails. Throw away the removed flowers. Removing spent flowers encourages new blooms to form.
Fertilize the Forget-Me-Not once each month only if their leaves appear wilted or yellow or the plants grow very slowly during spring or summer. Mix 1 teaspoon of 5-10-10, water-soluble fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture to fertilize the plants in place of one watering session, applying only the amount you normally would use to water the plants. Don’t fertilize during winter while the plants are dormant.
Trim off all dead foliage and dead stems throughout the growing season as well as during winter after the plants die back. Use pruning shears or scissors for the task.
Propagation
If starting off Forget-Me-Not and other Myosotis plants indoors then start about 2 months in advance. The seeds of Forget-Me-Not should be sown in vermiculite. It will take from one to four weeks to germinate at 64 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 20 degrees Celsius) in the dark. It is necessary to water the Forget-Me-Nots from below to stop them rotting. Once seedlings are ready transplant into the garden and grow about 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart.
Pests and Diseases
Insects and disease are not too common. If problems arise, treat early with insecticides or fungicides as appropriate.
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