文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Fungus gnats (families Mycetophilidae and Sciaridae) are a common pest of plants grown indoors, especially where humidity and moisture are high. They’re usually first noticed when the harmless adults are seen flying around house plants or gathered at a nearby window. These non-biting adult gnats can become a flying nuisance. But it’s the larval stage, feeding in the soil, that can damage tender plant roots.
Adults are delicate, grayish black, mosquito-like flies (1/8 inch long) with long legs and one pair of clear wings. They are not strong fliers and emerge from potted plants, especially when watering. Larvae or maggots (1/4 inch) have a shiny black head and an elongated, whitish to transparent body. They are most abundant in damp, rich soils and feed on root hairs, fungi and other organic materials.
Life Cycle
Adults live about one week and lay up to 300 eggs in rich, moist soils. Within 4-6 days tiny larvae emerge and begin feeding on plant roots during their two week period. The pupal stage lasts 3-4 days before young adults leave the soil and begin the next generation. The entire life cycle from egg to adult may be completed in as little as 3-4 weeks depending on temperature. Because of their proclivity and relative short gestation, potted plants can host each stage — egg, larvae, pupae, adult — in multiple generations at once. Because of this remedies usually require repeated applications until there are no surviving eggs.
Damage
Plant symptoms that indicate fungal gnats are seen as sudden wilting, loss of vigor, poor growth, and yellowing. With severe infestations, a considerable portion of the plants may be lost. Especially prone to injury:
Geraniums
African violets
Carnations
Poinsettias
Note: Larvae are most damaging to seedlings, cuttings and young plants.
Fungus Gnat Control
Inspect plants thoroughly prior to purchase for signs of insect pests. Turn up soil carefully near the base of the plant and look for the glossy, clear larvae. Reject any plant sending up flying gnats.
Fungus gnats do best in damp soils; be careful not to overwater, especially during winter months when plants use less. When potting, avoid water holding, organic material such as peat moss that may encourage egg laying.
If pests are present, allow the soil to dry to a depth of one to two inches between waterings. This not only kills larvae and inhibits the development of eggs, it also makes the soil less attractive to egg-laying females. Apply Gnat Nix as a top dressing to significantly reduce pest populations.
Use Yellow Sticky Traps placed horizontally at the soil surface to capture large numbers of egg laying adults. The gnats are attracted to yellow and are easily removed on the trap before they can lay more eggs.
Mosquito Bits and Microbe-Lift® BMC contain Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis, a highly selective biological pesticide that kills damaging larvae, yet is SAFE for fish, wildlife, humans and non-target species. Contains NO harmful residues.
Top dress houseplants with Beneficial Nematodes to destroy the larvae stage. Nematodes are microscopic round worms that penetrate fungus gnat larvae, as well as harmful lawn and garden grubs , fleas, and other soil-borne pests (they do not harm earthworms), then release a bacterium that consumes the pest from the inside out. The long-lasting nematodes are safe for use around pets, plants, and your family.
Flying Insect Killer, a combination of peppermint, cinnamon and sesame oils, is a non-toxic spray that will get rid of gnats and other insects that gather around windows.
Adults are delicate, grayish black, mosquito-like flies (1/8 inch long) with long legs and one pair of clear wings. They are not strong fliers and emerge from potted plants, especially when watering. Larvae or maggots (1/4 inch) have a shiny black head and an elongated, whitish to transparent body. They are most abundant in damp, rich soils and feed on root hairs, fungi and other organic materials.
Life Cycle
Adults live about one week and lay up to 300 eggs in rich, moist soils. Within 4-6 days tiny larvae emerge and begin feeding on plant roots during their two week period. The pupal stage lasts 3-4 days before young adults leave the soil and begin the next generation. The entire life cycle from egg to adult may be completed in as little as 3-4 weeks depending on temperature. Because of their proclivity and relative short gestation, potted plants can host each stage — egg, larvae, pupae, adult — in multiple generations at once. Because of this remedies usually require repeated applications until there are no surviving eggs.
Damage
Plant symptoms that indicate fungal gnats are seen as sudden wilting, loss of vigor, poor growth, and yellowing. With severe infestations, a considerable portion of the plants may be lost. Especially prone to injury:
Geraniums
African violets
Carnations
Poinsettias
Note: Larvae are most damaging to seedlings, cuttings and young plants.
Fungus Gnat Control
Inspect plants thoroughly prior to purchase for signs of insect pests. Turn up soil carefully near the base of the plant and look for the glossy, clear larvae. Reject any plant sending up flying gnats.
Fungus gnats do best in damp soils; be careful not to overwater, especially during winter months when plants use less. When potting, avoid water holding, organic material such as peat moss that may encourage egg laying.
If pests are present, allow the soil to dry to a depth of one to two inches between waterings. This not only kills larvae and inhibits the development of eggs, it also makes the soil less attractive to egg-laying females. Apply Gnat Nix as a top dressing to significantly reduce pest populations.
Use Yellow Sticky Traps placed horizontally at the soil surface to capture large numbers of egg laying adults. The gnats are attracted to yellow and are easily removed on the trap before they can lay more eggs.
Mosquito Bits and Microbe-Lift® BMC contain Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis, a highly selective biological pesticide that kills damaging larvae, yet is SAFE for fish, wildlife, humans and non-target species. Contains NO harmful residues.
Top dress houseplants with Beneficial Nematodes to destroy the larvae stage. Nematodes are microscopic round worms that penetrate fungus gnat larvae, as well as harmful lawn and garden grubs , fleas, and other soil-borne pests (they do not harm earthworms), then release a bacterium that consumes the pest from the inside out. The long-lasting nematodes are safe for use around pets, plants, and your family.
Flying Insect Killer, a combination of peppermint, cinnamon and sesame oils, is a non-toxic spray that will get rid of gnats and other insects that gather around windows.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
There are more than 5,000 known species of rust on plants. Common rust (Phragmidium spp.) is a fungal disease that attacks roses, hollyhocks, snapdragons, daylilies, beans, tomatoes and lawns. It is most often found on mature plants where symptoms appear primarily on the surfaces of lower leaves.
Early on, look for white, slightly raised spots on the undersides of leaves and on the stems. After a short period of time, these spots become covered with reddish-orange spore masses. Later, leaf postules may turn yellow-green and eventually black. Severe infestations will deform and yellow leaves and cause leaf drop.
Rust diseases are favored by 4 to 8 hours of low light intensity, warm temperatures and moisture — humidity, dew or rain — followed by 8 to 16 hours of high light intensity, high temperatures and slow drying of leaf surfaces.
Black spores are visible on leaves and stems in fall and overwinter inside infected stems which are distinguished by dark, corky blotches at points of infection. The spores are spread by wind or by water splashing back up onto the foliage.
Treatment
Select rust-resistant plant varieties when available.
Pick off and destroy infected leaves and frequently rake under plants to remove all fallen debris.
Water in the early morning hours — avoiding overhead sprinklers — to give plants time to dry out during the day. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be used to help keep leaves dry.
Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer on crops and avoid excess nitrogen. Soft, leafy, new growth is most susceptible.
Apply copper sprays or sulfur powders to prevent infection of susceptible plants. For best results, apply early or at first sign of disease. Spray all plant parts thoroughly and repeat every 7-10 days up to the day of harvest.
Effectively treat fungal diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis and is approved for organic gardening. Best of all, it’s safe to use — you can treat and pick crops the same day!
Containing sulfur and pyrethrins, Bonide® Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, apply as a protective spray (2.5 oz/ gallon) early in the season. If disease, insects or wet weather are present, mix 5 oz in one gallon of water. Thoroughly spray all parts of the plant, especially new shoots.
Prune or stake plants and remove weeds to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will prevent the disease spores from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Burn or bag infected plants after the growing season (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
Early on, look for white, slightly raised spots on the undersides of leaves and on the stems. After a short period of time, these spots become covered with reddish-orange spore masses. Later, leaf postules may turn yellow-green and eventually black. Severe infestations will deform and yellow leaves and cause leaf drop.
Rust diseases are favored by 4 to 8 hours of low light intensity, warm temperatures and moisture — humidity, dew or rain — followed by 8 to 16 hours of high light intensity, high temperatures and slow drying of leaf surfaces.
Black spores are visible on leaves and stems in fall and overwinter inside infected stems which are distinguished by dark, corky blotches at points of infection. The spores are spread by wind or by water splashing back up onto the foliage.
Treatment
Select rust-resistant plant varieties when available.
Pick off and destroy infected leaves and frequently rake under plants to remove all fallen debris.
Water in the early morning hours — avoiding overhead sprinklers — to give plants time to dry out during the day. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be used to help keep leaves dry.
Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer on crops and avoid excess nitrogen. Soft, leafy, new growth is most susceptible.
Apply copper sprays or sulfur powders to prevent infection of susceptible plants. For best results, apply early or at first sign of disease. Spray all plant parts thoroughly and repeat every 7-10 days up to the day of harvest.
Effectively treat fungal diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis and is approved for organic gardening. Best of all, it’s safe to use — you can treat and pick crops the same day!
Containing sulfur and pyrethrins, Bonide® Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, apply as a protective spray (2.5 oz/ gallon) early in the season. If disease, insects or wet weather are present, mix 5 oz in one gallon of water. Thoroughly spray all parts of the plant, especially new shoots.
Prune or stake plants and remove weeds to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will prevent the disease spores from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Burn or bag infected plants after the growing season (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Common on many plants and easily recognized, powdery mildew is a fungal disease found throughout the United States. It is caused by a variety of closely related fungal species, each with a limited host range. (The fungi attacking your roses are unlikely to spread to your lilacs). Low soil moisture combined with high humidity levels at the plant surface favors this disease.
Symptoms usually appear later in the growing season on outdoor plants. Powdery mildew starts on young leaves as raised blister-like areas that cause leaves to curl, exposing the lower leaf surface. Infected leaves become covered with a white to gray powdery growth, usually on the upper surface; unopened flower buds may be white with mildew and may never open. Leaves of severely infected plants turn brown and drop. The disease prefers young, succulent growth; mature leaves are usually not affected.
Fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and other plant debris. Wind, water and insects transmit the spores to other nearby plants. Zucchini, beans, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, tomatoes, roses and zinnia are especially susceptible.
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars in sunny locations whenever possible.
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Remove diseased foliage from the plant and clean up fallen debris on the ground.
Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will prevent the disease spores from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Wash foliage occasionally to disrupt the daily spore-releasing cycle. Neem oil and PM Wash, used on a 7 day schedule, will prevent fungal attack on plants grown indoors.
Water in the morning, so plants have a chance to dry during the day. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses will help keep the foliage dry.
Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer on crops and avoid excess nitrogen. Soft, leafy, new growth is most susceptible.
Destroy all plant debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following approved organic fungicides:
Apply sulfur or copper-based fungicides to prevent infection of susceptible plants. For best results, apply early or at first sign of disease. Spray all plant parts thoroughly and repeat at 7-10 day intervals up to the day of harvest.
Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. Monterey® BI-CARB is a similar product containing micro-encapsulated potassium bicarbonate as the active ingredient. Mix 4 tsps in 2 gallons of water to thoroughly cover foliage.
Effectively treat fungal diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is approved for organic gardening. Best of all, it’s safe to use — you can treat and pick crops the same day!
SNS 244 and Zero Tolerance Herbal Fungicide are made from 100% pure, food-grade ingredients that work fast to kill existing plant diseases and prevent new fungal problems from starting.
Indoor growers may want to consider using a Sulfur Burner/ Vaporizer which turns sulfur prills into a fine dust and changes the pH of leaf surfaces. Fungal spores and mold can’t get established on this plant coating. As an added benefit, studies have shown that this dust will eliminate spider mites.
Symptoms usually appear later in the growing season on outdoor plants. Powdery mildew starts on young leaves as raised blister-like areas that cause leaves to curl, exposing the lower leaf surface. Infected leaves become covered with a white to gray powdery growth, usually on the upper surface; unopened flower buds may be white with mildew and may never open. Leaves of severely infected plants turn brown and drop. The disease prefers young, succulent growth; mature leaves are usually not affected.
Fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and other plant debris. Wind, water and insects transmit the spores to other nearby plants. Zucchini, beans, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, tomatoes, roses and zinnia are especially susceptible.
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars in sunny locations whenever possible.
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Remove diseased foliage from the plant and clean up fallen debris on the ground.
Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will prevent the disease spores from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Wash foliage occasionally to disrupt the daily spore-releasing cycle. Neem oil and PM Wash, used on a 7 day schedule, will prevent fungal attack on plants grown indoors.
Water in the morning, so plants have a chance to dry during the day. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses will help keep the foliage dry.
Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer on crops and avoid excess nitrogen. Soft, leafy, new growth is most susceptible.
Destroy all plant debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup). Do NOT compost.
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following approved organic fungicides:
Apply sulfur or copper-based fungicides to prevent infection of susceptible plants. For best results, apply early or at first sign of disease. Spray all plant parts thoroughly and repeat at 7-10 day intervals up to the day of harvest.
Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. Monterey® BI-CARB is a similar product containing micro-encapsulated potassium bicarbonate as the active ingredient. Mix 4 tsps in 2 gallons of water to thoroughly cover foliage.
Effectively treat fungal diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is approved for organic gardening. Best of all, it’s safe to use — you can treat and pick crops the same day!
SNS 244 and Zero Tolerance Herbal Fungicide are made from 100% pure, food-grade ingredients that work fast to kill existing plant diseases and prevent new fungal problems from starting.
Indoor growers may want to consider using a Sulfur Burner/ Vaporizer which turns sulfur prills into a fine dust and changes the pH of leaf surfaces. Fungal spores and mold can’t get established on this plant coating. As an added benefit, studies have shown that this dust will eliminate spider mites.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Found on tomato and potato plants, late blight is caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans and is common throughout the United States. True to its name, the disease occurs later in the growing season with symptoms often not appearing until after blossom.
Late blight first appears on the lower, older leaves as water-soaked, gray-green spots. As the disease matures, these spots darken and a white fungal growth forms on the undersides. Eventually the entire plant will become infected. Crops can be severely damaged.
Unlike other fungal diseases, this plant problem does not overwinter in the soil or on garden trash. Instead the spores are introduced by infected tubers, transplants or seeds. Wind will also carry the disease from nearby gardens. Warm temperatures (70-80˚F) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread.
Note: Late Blight was responsible for the Irish potato famine (1845-1849).
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars when available.
Remove volunteers from the garden prior to planting and space plants far enough apart to allow for plenty of air circulation.
Water in the early morning hours, or use soaker hoses, to give plants time to dry out during the day — avoid overhead irrigation.
Destroy all tomato and potato debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup).
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following fungicides:
Apply a copper based fungicide (2 oz/ gallon of water) every 7 days or less, following heavy rain or when the amount of disease is increasing rapidly. If possible, time applications so that at least 12 hours of dry weather follows application.
Used as a foliar spray, Organocide® Plant Doctor will work its way through the entire plant to prevent fungal problems from occurring and attack existing many problems. Mix 2 tsp/ gallon of water and spray at transplant or when direct seeded crops are at 2-4 true leaf, then at 1-2 week intervals as required to control disease.
Safely treat fungal problems with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis and is approved for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Monterey® All Natural Disease Control is a ready-to-use blend of naturally occurring ingredients that control most plant foliar diseases. All stages of the disease is controlled, but applying before infestation gives the best results.
Late blight first appears on the lower, older leaves as water-soaked, gray-green spots. As the disease matures, these spots darken and a white fungal growth forms on the undersides. Eventually the entire plant will become infected. Crops can be severely damaged.
Unlike other fungal diseases, this plant problem does not overwinter in the soil or on garden trash. Instead the spores are introduced by infected tubers, transplants or seeds. Wind will also carry the disease from nearby gardens. Warm temperatures (70-80˚F) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread.
Note: Late Blight was responsible for the Irish potato famine (1845-1849).
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars when available.
Remove volunteers from the garden prior to planting and space plants far enough apart to allow for plenty of air circulation.
Water in the early morning hours, or use soaker hoses, to give plants time to dry out during the day — avoid overhead irrigation.
Destroy all tomato and potato debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup).
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following fungicides:
Apply a copper based fungicide (2 oz/ gallon of water) every 7 days or less, following heavy rain or when the amount of disease is increasing rapidly. If possible, time applications so that at least 12 hours of dry weather follows application.
Used as a foliar spray, Organocide® Plant Doctor will work its way through the entire plant to prevent fungal problems from occurring and attack existing many problems. Mix 2 tsp/ gallon of water and spray at transplant or when direct seeded crops are at 2-4 true leaf, then at 1-2 week intervals as required to control disease.
Safely treat fungal problems with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis and is approved for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Monterey® All Natural Disease Control is a ready-to-use blend of naturally occurring ingredients that control most plant foliar diseases. All stages of the disease is controlled, but applying before infestation gives the best results.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Found on a wide range of plants (too many to mention), gray mold (Botrytis cinerea) is a fungal disease that travels quickly through gardens, especially during damp, cool to mild weather. Disease symptoms appear as grayish colored soft, mushy spots on leaves, stems, flowers and on produce. Spots may become covered with a coating of gray fungus spores, especially if humidity is high. Fruit or plants shrivel and rot and often develop black, stone-like sclerotia — a compact mass of hardened fungal filaments — under rotted parts.
Gray mold is often found near the soil surface or in the densest areas of the plant canopy. It develops on wilted flowers first, then spreads quickly to other parts of the plant. The disease may also occur in storage areas causing rotting of harvested fruits and vegetables.
Botrytis blight overwinters on plants, in or on the soil, and as sclerotia. Spores develop when conditions are optimal, and are moved by wind or splashing water onto blossoms or young leaves, where they germinate and enter the plant. Spores require cool temperatures (45-60 F.) and high humidity (93% and above) to germinate. Germinating spores rarely penetrate green, healthy tissue directly, but can enter through wounds on growing plants. Cuttings are particularly susceptible to infection.
Treatment
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation between plants. Make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
If growing indoors use a small clip-on fan to improve air flow.
Keep the soil under plants clean and rake up any fallen debris.
Add a good amount of organic compost or mulch under plants. Mulches will prevent the fungal spores from splashing back up onto flowers and leaves.
Water in the early morning hours, or use a soaker hose, to give plants time to dry out during the day.
Do not compost infected plant leaves or stems, and thoroughly clean up garden areas in the fall to reduce over wintering sites for the fungal spores.
Copper-Soap fungicides will help by protecting plants from disease spores. Apply at the start of flowering and continue every 7-10 days until harvest. Fungicidal sprays are especially warranted when weather forecasts predict a long period of cool, wet weather.
Safely treat most fungal diseases, including Botrytis blight, with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Mycostop, a biological fungicide approved for organic use, has shown suppression of the disease. Direct spray (5 gm/ 50 liters of water) to susceptible leaves, flowers and fruits to point of run-off. Apply every 2-3 weeks, or as needed depending on disease pressure.
Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. For best protection, repeat at 1-2 week intervals until conditions are no longer favorable for disease development.
Gray mold is often found near the soil surface or in the densest areas of the plant canopy. It develops on wilted flowers first, then spreads quickly to other parts of the plant. The disease may also occur in storage areas causing rotting of harvested fruits and vegetables.
Botrytis blight overwinters on plants, in or on the soil, and as sclerotia. Spores develop when conditions are optimal, and are moved by wind or splashing water onto blossoms or young leaves, where they germinate and enter the plant. Spores require cool temperatures (45-60 F.) and high humidity (93% and above) to germinate. Germinating spores rarely penetrate green, healthy tissue directly, but can enter through wounds on growing plants. Cuttings are particularly susceptible to infection.
Treatment
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation between plants. Make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
If growing indoors use a small clip-on fan to improve air flow.
Keep the soil under plants clean and rake up any fallen debris.
Add a good amount of organic compost or mulch under plants. Mulches will prevent the fungal spores from splashing back up onto flowers and leaves.
Water in the early morning hours, or use a soaker hose, to give plants time to dry out during the day.
Do not compost infected plant leaves or stems, and thoroughly clean up garden areas in the fall to reduce over wintering sites for the fungal spores.
Copper-Soap fungicides will help by protecting plants from disease spores. Apply at the start of flowering and continue every 7-10 days until harvest. Fungicidal sprays are especially warranted when weather forecasts predict a long period of cool, wet weather.
Safely treat most fungal diseases, including Botrytis blight, with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Mycostop, a biological fungicide approved for organic use, has shown suppression of the disease. Direct spray (5 gm/ 50 liters of water) to susceptible leaves, flowers and fruits to point of run-off. Apply every 2-3 weeks, or as needed depending on disease pressure.
Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. For best protection, repeat at 1-2 week intervals until conditions are no longer favorable for disease development.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Commonly found throughout the United States, Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne pathogen that attacks potato, tomato, eggplant and pepper plants. Disease fungi (Fusarium oxysporum) enter through the roots and interfere with the water conducting vessels of the plant. As the infection spreads up into the stems and leaves it restricts water flow causing the foliage to wilt and turn yellow.
Disease symptoms often appear later in the growing season and are first noticed on the lower (older) leaves. As the disease progresses, the younger leaves will also be affected and the plant eventually dies. In many cases, only one branch or side of the plant show symptoms.
Fusarium wilt can survive for years in the soil and is spread by water, insects and garden equipment. The fungal disease develops during hot weather and is most destructive when soil temperatures approach 80˚F. Dry weather and low soil moisture encourage this plant disease.
Treatment
Plant resistant varieties when available.
Remove stricken growth from the garden and sterilize pruning clippers (one part bleach to 4 parts water) between cuts.
Use Safer® Yard & Garden Insect Killer to control many garden insects, like cucumber beetles, which are known to spread the disease.
High nitrogen fertilizers may increase susceptibility to the disease. Test your soil and use a slow-release, organic fertilizer in the vegetable garden.
Hand pull or spot treat weeds using a weed flamer or natural herbicide — many weed species host the disease pathogen.
Mycostop is a biological fungicide that will safely protect crops against wilt caused by Fusarium. Approved for use in organic crop production, it can be applied as a soil spray or drench (1-2 gm/ 100 sq ft) to seedlings, ornamentals and vegetables. Apply sufficient water during application to move Mycostop into the root zone.
If the disease persists, it is best to remove the entire plant and solarize* the soil before planting again.
Disease symptoms often appear later in the growing season and are first noticed on the lower (older) leaves. As the disease progresses, the younger leaves will also be affected and the plant eventually dies. In many cases, only one branch or side of the plant show symptoms.
Fusarium wilt can survive for years in the soil and is spread by water, insects and garden equipment. The fungal disease develops during hot weather and is most destructive when soil temperatures approach 80˚F. Dry weather and low soil moisture encourage this plant disease.
Treatment
Plant resistant varieties when available.
Remove stricken growth from the garden and sterilize pruning clippers (one part bleach to 4 parts water) between cuts.
Use Safer® Yard & Garden Insect Killer to control many garden insects, like cucumber beetles, which are known to spread the disease.
High nitrogen fertilizers may increase susceptibility to the disease. Test your soil and use a slow-release, organic fertilizer in the vegetable garden.
Hand pull or spot treat weeds using a weed flamer or natural herbicide — many weed species host the disease pathogen.
Mycostop is a biological fungicide that will safely protect crops against wilt caused by Fusarium. Approved for use in organic crop production, it can be applied as a soil spray or drench (1-2 gm/ 100 sq ft) to seedlings, ornamentals and vegetables. Apply sufficient water during application to move Mycostop into the root zone.
If the disease persists, it is best to remove the entire plant and solarize* the soil before planting again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Common on tomato and potato plants, early blight is caused by the fungus Alternaria solani and occurs throughout the United States. Symptoms first appear on the lower, older leaves as small brown spots with concentric rings that form a “bull’s eye” pattern. As the disease matures, it spreads outward on the leaf surface causing it to turn yellow, wither and die. Eventually the stem, fruit and upper portion of the plant will become infected. Crops can be severely damaged.
Early blight overwinters on infected plant tissue and is spread by splashing rain, irrigation, insects and garden tools. The disease is also carried on tomato seeds and in potato tubers. In spite of its name, early blight can occur any time throughout the growing season. High temperatures (80-85˚F.) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread. In many cases, poorly nourished or stressed plants are attacked.
Treatment
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation and reduce fungal problems.
Make sure to disinfect your pruning shears (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Keep the soil under plants clean and free of garden debris. Add a layer of organic compost to prevent the spores from splashing back up onto vegetation.
Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be used to help keep the foliage dry.
For best control, apply copper-based fungicides early, two weeks before disease normally appears or when weather forecasts predict a long period of wet weather. Alternatively, begin treatment when disease first appears, and repeat every 7-10 days for as long as needed.
Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.
SERENADE Garden is a broad spectrum, preventative bio-fungicide recommended for the control or suppression of many important plant diseases. For best results, treat prior to foliar disease development or at the first sign of infection. Repeat at 7-day intervals or as needed.
Remove and destroy all garden debris after harvest and practice crop rotation the following year.
Burn or bag infected plant parts. Do NOT compost.
Early blight overwinters on infected plant tissue and is spread by splashing rain, irrigation, insects and garden tools. The disease is also carried on tomato seeds and in potato tubers. In spite of its name, early blight can occur any time throughout the growing season. High temperatures (80-85˚F.) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread. In many cases, poorly nourished or stressed plants are attacked.
Treatment
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation and reduce fungal problems.
Make sure to disinfect your pruning shears (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Keep the soil under plants clean and free of garden debris. Add a layer of organic compost to prevent the spores from splashing back up onto vegetation.
Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be used to help keep the foliage dry.
For best control, apply copper-based fungicides early, two weeks before disease normally appears or when weather forecasts predict a long period of wet weather. Alternatively, begin treatment when disease first appears, and repeat every 7-10 days for as long as needed.
Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.
SERENADE Garden is a broad spectrum, preventative bio-fungicide recommended for the control or suppression of many important plant diseases. For best results, treat prior to foliar disease development or at the first sign of infection. Repeat at 7-day intervals or as needed.
Remove and destroy all garden debris after harvest and practice crop rotation the following year.
Burn or bag infected plant parts. Do NOT compost.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Downy mildew (Plasmopara viticola) affects many plants and appears as yellow to white patches on the upper surfaces of older leaves. On the undersides, these areas are covered with white to grayish, cotton-like fungi. These “downy” masses are most often noticed after rain or heavy dew and disappear soon after sunny weather resumes. As the disease progresses leaves may eventually turn crisp and brown and fall off even though the plant has ample water.
Downy mildew occurs in cool, moist weather usually in early spring or late fall. Spore production is favored by temperatures cooler than 65˚F. and by relative humidities approaching 100%. This disease overwinters on plant debris and in the soil. Fungal spores can be carried by insects, wind, rain or garden tools.
Treatment
The best way to prevent downy mildew is to avoid the environmental conditions that favor the disease.
Prune or stake plants and remove any weeds to improve air circulation.
Water in the early morning hours, or use a soaker hose, to give the plants time to dry out during the day.
Keep the ground under infected plants clean during the fall and winter to prevent the disease from spreading.
Remove and destroy any plants with serious infection (see Fall Garden Cleanup).
Choose resistant varieties whenever possible.
Downy mildew is comparatively easy to control on most plants when the foliage and fruit are kept protected by a copper spray. Begin treatments two weeks before disease normally appears or when weather forecasts predict a long period of wet weather. Alternatively, begin treatment when disease first appears, and repeat at 7-10 day intervals for as long as needed.
The systemic action of Organocide® Plant Doctor moves throughout the entire plant to treat common disease problems. Mix 3/4 tsp per gallon of water and apply to foliage. Spray to run-off, as required for disease control.
Downy mildew occurs in cool, moist weather usually in early spring or late fall. Spore production is favored by temperatures cooler than 65˚F. and by relative humidities approaching 100%. This disease overwinters on plant debris and in the soil. Fungal spores can be carried by insects, wind, rain or garden tools.
Treatment
The best way to prevent downy mildew is to avoid the environmental conditions that favor the disease.
Prune or stake plants and remove any weeds to improve air circulation.
Water in the early morning hours, or use a soaker hose, to give the plants time to dry out during the day.
Keep the ground under infected plants clean during the fall and winter to prevent the disease from spreading.
Remove and destroy any plants with serious infection (see Fall Garden Cleanup).
Choose resistant varieties whenever possible.
Downy mildew is comparatively easy to control on most plants when the foliage and fruit are kept protected by a copper spray. Begin treatments two weeks before disease normally appears or when weather forecasts predict a long period of wet weather. Alternatively, begin treatment when disease first appears, and repeat at 7-10 day intervals for as long as needed.
The systemic action of Organocide® Plant Doctor moves throughout the entire plant to treat common disease problems. Mix 3/4 tsp per gallon of water and apply to foliage. Spray to run-off, as required for disease control.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
A soil-borne fungal disease that affects seeds and new seedlings, damping off usually refers to the rotting of stem and root tissues at and below the soil surface. In most cases, infected plants will germinate and come up fine, but within a few days they become water-soaked and mushy, fall over at the base and die.
Several fungi can cause decay of seeds and seedlings including species of rhizoctonia, fusarium and phytophthora. However, species of the soil fungus pythium are most often the culprit. Damping off typically occurs when old seed is planted in cold, wet soil and is further increased by poor soil drainage. High humidity levels, rich potting soils and planting too deeply will also encourage its growth.
Fungal spores live in the soil and are primarily a problem in seed beds. They can be transported on garden tools and in garden soils taken into the house or greenhouse.
Note: Older plants are rarely killed by damping off primarily because the production of secondary stem tissue forms a protective barrier and limits fungal penetration.
Treatment
There is no cure for plants that already have damping off. However, you can easily prevent the problem by providing good air circulation. A small fan or simply cracking the lid of the germination tray will suffice. The biological fungicide Mycostop may also be used as a seed treatment to prevent seed or soil-borne diseases. Other steps for preventing damping off include the following:
When starting seeds indoors, use good organic potting soil or sterilize your own potting soil in an oven.
Make sure your seed starter mix is light and fast-draining.
Plant seedlings so that the soil surface is near the top of the container to insure proper air circulation.
Sow seeds thinly to prevent over crowding which can lead to humid, moist conditions.
Seedling trays that provide water from below are preferable to overhead watering.
Never water past noon so that the soil surface and the plants are dry by evening.
Avoid overwatering tender seedlings.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of disease problems. Apply as a soil drench or foliar spray (3-4 tsp/ gallon of water) to prevent and attack many fungal problems, including pythium, fusarium and root rot.
Several fungi can cause decay of seeds and seedlings including species of rhizoctonia, fusarium and phytophthora. However, species of the soil fungus pythium are most often the culprit. Damping off typically occurs when old seed is planted in cold, wet soil and is further increased by poor soil drainage. High humidity levels, rich potting soils and planting too deeply will also encourage its growth.
Fungal spores live in the soil and are primarily a problem in seed beds. They can be transported on garden tools and in garden soils taken into the house or greenhouse.
Note: Older plants are rarely killed by damping off primarily because the production of secondary stem tissue forms a protective barrier and limits fungal penetration.
Treatment
There is no cure for plants that already have damping off. However, you can easily prevent the problem by providing good air circulation. A small fan or simply cracking the lid of the germination tray will suffice. The biological fungicide Mycostop may also be used as a seed treatment to prevent seed or soil-borne diseases. Other steps for preventing damping off include the following:
When starting seeds indoors, use good organic potting soil or sterilize your own potting soil in an oven.
Make sure your seed starter mix is light and fast-draining.
Plant seedlings so that the soil surface is near the top of the container to insure proper air circulation.
Sow seeds thinly to prevent over crowding which can lead to humid, moist conditions.
Seedling trays that provide water from below are preferable to overhead watering.
Never water past noon so that the soil surface and the plants are dry by evening.
Avoid overwatering tender seedlings.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of disease problems. Apply as a soil drench or foliar spray (3-4 tsp/ gallon of water) to prevent and attack many fungal problems, including pythium, fusarium and root rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Crown gall is a common plant disease caused by the soil-borne bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens. It is found throughout the world and occurs on woody shrubs and herbaceous plants including grapes, raspberries, blackberries and roses.
Crown gall symptoms include round, wart-like growths — 2 inches or larger in diameter — that appear at or just above the soil line, or on lower branches and stems. Plants with several galls may be unable to move water and nutrients up the trunk and become weakened, stunted and unproductive. Young plants can be killed by developing gall tissue.
The bacteria responsible for crown gall can persist in the soil for many years and are released when galls become saturated with moisture or as older galls decompose. Susceptible plants are infected through fresh wounds or abrasions, many of which are a result of pruning, freeze injury, soil insects, cultivation and other factors that may damage plants. Nursery stock is often infected through grafting and budding scars.
Treatment
Select resistant cultivars when possible and purchase plants from a reputable nursery.
Do not buy plants that shows signs of swelling or galling.
When caring for susceptible plants, avoid injury or pruning wounds that may come in contact with the soil.
Use Tree Wrap to protect against string trimmer damage and keep your garden tools clean.
Provide winter protection with natural burlap so bark does not crack.
In many cases, existing galls can be removed with a sharp pruning knife. Destroy the infected plant tissue and treat the wound with pruning sealer. If the plant does not recover, remove and destroy it.
Crown gall symptoms include round, wart-like growths — 2 inches or larger in diameter — that appear at or just above the soil line, or on lower branches and stems. Plants with several galls may be unable to move water and nutrients up the trunk and become weakened, stunted and unproductive. Young plants can be killed by developing gall tissue.
The bacteria responsible for crown gall can persist in the soil for many years and are released when galls become saturated with moisture or as older galls decompose. Susceptible plants are infected through fresh wounds or abrasions, many of which are a result of pruning, freeze injury, soil insects, cultivation and other factors that may damage plants. Nursery stock is often infected through grafting and budding scars.
Treatment
Select resistant cultivars when possible and purchase plants from a reputable nursery.
Do not buy plants that shows signs of swelling or galling.
When caring for susceptible plants, avoid injury or pruning wounds that may come in contact with the soil.
Use Tree Wrap to protect against string trimmer damage and keep your garden tools clean.
Provide winter protection with natural burlap so bark does not crack.
In many cases, existing galls can be removed with a sharp pruning knife. Destroy the infected plant tissue and treat the wound with pruning sealer. If the plant does not recover, remove and destroy it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Affecting most brassica crops (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, etc.), club root is a serious plant disease in North American home gardens. It is caused by the soil-borne fungus Plasmodiophora brassicae which infects susceptible plants through root hairs. Diseased roots become swollen, misshapen and deformed (clubbed) often cracking and rotting. As a result, plants have difficulty absorbing water and nutrients properly.
Plants often grow poorly and wilt during the heat of the day; plants often revive during cool nights. Outer leaves may turn yellow, purple or brown. Club root will reduce yields and can cause total crop failure.
Fungal spores can be spread by wind, water and garden tools. Disease development can occur over a wide range of conditions, but is favored by excessive moisture, low soil pH and soil temperatures between 64 and 77˚F. Spores can survive in the soil for as many as 10 years.
Treatment
Fungicides will NOT treat this soil-dwelling micro-organism.
Choose resistant cultivars when possible.
Try to prevent the occurrence of this disease by keeping a clean garden and rotating crops.
Keep in mind that the disease spores can persist in the soil for up to 20 years. If club root is present you may want to solarize the soil.*
Control susceptible weeds — mustard, radish, shepherd’s purse — that may be infected to reduce potential buildup of the disease.
Carefully remove infected plants and sterilize garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Raise your soil’s pH to a more alkaline 7.2 by mixing oyster shell or dolomite lime into your garden in the fall. Simple and affordable soil test kits are available to check pH often.
* To solarize your soil, you must leave a clear plastic tarp on the soil surface for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of the year. Soil solarization will reduce or eliminate many soil inhabiting pests including nematodes, fungi, insects, weeds and weed seeds.
Plants often grow poorly and wilt during the heat of the day; plants often revive during cool nights. Outer leaves may turn yellow, purple or brown. Club root will reduce yields and can cause total crop failure.
Fungal spores can be spread by wind, water and garden tools. Disease development can occur over a wide range of conditions, but is favored by excessive moisture, low soil pH and soil temperatures between 64 and 77˚F. Spores can survive in the soil for as many as 10 years.
Treatment
Fungicides will NOT treat this soil-dwelling micro-organism.
Choose resistant cultivars when possible.
Try to prevent the occurrence of this disease by keeping a clean garden and rotating crops.
Keep in mind that the disease spores can persist in the soil for up to 20 years. If club root is present you may want to solarize the soil.*
Control susceptible weeds — mustard, radish, shepherd’s purse — that may be infected to reduce potential buildup of the disease.
Carefully remove infected plants and sterilize garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Raise your soil’s pH to a more alkaline 7.2 by mixing oyster shell or dolomite lime into your garden in the fall. Simple and affordable soil test kits are available to check pH often.
* To solarize your soil, you must leave a clear plastic tarp on the soil surface for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of the year. Soil solarization will reduce or eliminate many soil inhabiting pests including nematodes, fungi, insects, weeds and weed seeds.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Cedar apple rust (Gymnosporangium juniperi-virginianae) is a fungal disease that requires juniper plants to complete its complicated two year life-cycle. Spores overwinter as a reddish-brown gall on young twigs of various juniper species. In early spring, during wet weather, these galls swell and bright orange masses of spores are blown by the wind where they infect susceptible apple and crab-apple trees. The spores that develop on these trees will only infect junipers the following year. From year to year, the disease must pass from junipers to apples to junipers again; it cannot spread between apple trees.
On apple and crab-apple trees, look for pale yellow pinhead sized spots on the upper surface of the leaves shortly after bloom. These gradually enlarge to bright orange-yellow spots which make the disease easy to identify. Orange spots may develop on the fruit as well. Heavily infected leaves may drop prematurely.
Treatment
Choose resistant cultivars when available.
Rake up and dispose of fallen leaves and other debris from under trees.
Remove galls from infected junipers. In some cases, juniper plants should be removed entirely.
Apply preventative, disease-fighting fungicides labeled for use on apples weekly, starting with bud break, to protect trees from spores being released by the juniper host. This occurs only once per year, so additional applications after this springtime spread are not necessary.
On juniper, rust can be controlled by spraying plants with a copper solution (0.5 to 2.0 oz/ gallon of water) at least four times between late August and late October.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Containing sulfur and pyrethrins, Bonide® Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, apply as a protective spray (2.5 oz/ gallon) early in the season. If disease, insects or wet weather are present, mix 5 oz in one gallon of water. Thoroughly spray all parts of the plant, especially new shoots.
Contact your local Agricultural Extension office for other possible solutions in your area.
On apple and crab-apple trees, look for pale yellow pinhead sized spots on the upper surface of the leaves shortly after bloom. These gradually enlarge to bright orange-yellow spots which make the disease easy to identify. Orange spots may develop on the fruit as well. Heavily infected leaves may drop prematurely.
Treatment
Choose resistant cultivars when available.
Rake up and dispose of fallen leaves and other debris from under trees.
Remove galls from infected junipers. In some cases, juniper plants should be removed entirely.
Apply preventative, disease-fighting fungicides labeled for use on apples weekly, starting with bud break, to protect trees from spores being released by the juniper host. This occurs only once per year, so additional applications after this springtime spread are not necessary.
On juniper, rust can be controlled by spraying plants with a copper solution (0.5 to 2.0 oz/ gallon of water) at least four times between late August and late October.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Containing sulfur and pyrethrins, Bonide® Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, apply as a protective spray (2.5 oz/ gallon) early in the season. If disease, insects or wet weather are present, mix 5 oz in one gallon of water. Thoroughly spray all parts of the plant, especially new shoots.
Contact your local Agricultural Extension office for other possible solutions in your area.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Generally found in the eastern part of the United States, anthracnose is caused by fungi in the genus Colletotrichum, a common group of plant pathogens that are responsible for diseases on many plant species. Infected plants develop dark, water soaked lesions on stems, leaves or fruit. The centers of these lesions often become covered with pink, gelatinous masses of spores especially during moist, warm weather. Anthracnose can reduce a beautiful harvest into rotted waste in just a few days.
The fungal disease overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden debris. Cool wet weather promotes its development, and the optimum temperature for continued growth of the spores is between 75-85˚F. Moisture is required for development and germination of the fungus as well as for infection of the plant. It is spread by wind, rain, insects and garden tools.
Treatment
Choose resistant plant varieties when possible and use western grown seeds which have not been exposed to the disease.
If this fungal problem is common, do NOT save your own seed from plantings.
To avoid spreading the disease, keep out of gardens when plants are wet and make sure to disinfect all garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Do not compost infected leaves, fruit or stems and thoroughly clean up garden areas in the fall, after harvest, to reduce over wintering sites for the fungal spores.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Liquid copper sprays and sulfur powders should be applied weekly, starting when foliage begins to develop in the early spring and continuing throughout the growing season. Spray early in the day, and avoid applications during hot weather. Seeds may also be treated prior to planting.
Neem oil spray is an organic, multi-purpose fungicide/insecticide/miticide that kills eggs, larvae and adult stages of insects as well as prevents fungal attack on plants. Apply early, at the first sign of spring budding, every 7-14 days as a preventative measure or on a 7-day schedule until existing problems are eliminated.
The fungal disease overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden debris. Cool wet weather promotes its development, and the optimum temperature for continued growth of the spores is between 75-85˚F. Moisture is required for development and germination of the fungus as well as for infection of the plant. It is spread by wind, rain, insects and garden tools.
Treatment
Choose resistant plant varieties when possible and use western grown seeds which have not been exposed to the disease.
If this fungal problem is common, do NOT save your own seed from plantings.
To avoid spreading the disease, keep out of gardens when plants are wet and make sure to disinfect all garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Do not compost infected leaves, fruit or stems and thoroughly clean up garden areas in the fall, after harvest, to reduce over wintering sites for the fungal spores.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Liquid copper sprays and sulfur powders should be applied weekly, starting when foliage begins to develop in the early spring and continuing throughout the growing season. Spray early in the day, and avoid applications during hot weather. Seeds may also be treated prior to planting.
Neem oil spray is an organic, multi-purpose fungicide/insecticide/miticide that kills eggs, larvae and adult stages of insects as well as prevents fungal attack on plants. Apply early, at the first sign of spring budding, every 7-14 days as a preventative measure or on a 7-day schedule until existing problems are eliminated.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Common on houseplants and in greenhouses, the whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum) is a sap-sucking insect that is often found in thick crowds on the undersides of leaves. When infested plants are disturbed, great clouds of the winged adults fly into the air. Both nymphs and adults damage plants by sucking the juices from new growth causing stunted growth, leaf yellowing and reduced yields. Plants become weak and susceptible to disease. Like aphids, whiteflies secrete honeydew, so leaves maybe sticky or covered with a black sooty mold. They are also responsible for transmitting several plant viruses.
In southern and coastal states whiteflies are found year-round in outdoor gardens. In northern areas year-round infestations are possible only indoors. Host plants include more than 250 ornamental and vegetable plants. Citrus, squash, poinsettia, potato, cucumber, grape, tomato and hibiscus are commonly infested.
Adults (1/16 inch long) are moth-like insects with powdery white wings and short antenna. They are easily recognized and often found near the tops of plants or on stem ends. Wingless nymphs are flattened, oval and almost scale-like in appearance. After the first instar, or crawler stage, they settle down and attach themselves to the underside of leaves and begin feeding.
Life Cycle
Young nymphs overwinter on the leaves of host plants. In late spring adult females deposit 200-400 eggs in circular clusters on the undersides of upper leaves. The eggs hatch in 5-10 days and first instar nymphs, which resemble small mealybugs and are called crawlers, move a short distance from the egg before flattening themselves against the leaf to feed. The remaining nymphal stages (2nd, 3rd and 4th) do not move. A non-feeding pupal stage follows and within a week, young adults emerge to repeat the cycle. There are many generations per year. Whiteflies develop from egg to adult in approximately 25 days at room temperature. Adults may live for one to two months.
Note: All of the immature stages are easily overlooked. They are usually pale, almost translucent, and blend with the color of the leaf to which they are attached. Superficially they are similar to several scale insects.
Whitefly Control
Yellow sticky traps are helpful for monitoring and suppressing adult populations.
If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
Natural predators of this pest include ladybugs and lacewing larvae, which feed on their eggs and the whitefly parasite which destroys nymphs and pupae. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived organic pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Safer® Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.
Organic Neem Oil can be sprayed on vegetables, fruit trees and flowers to kill eggs, larvae and adults. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray all leaf surfaces (including the undersides of leaves) until completely wet.
Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
In southern and coastal states whiteflies are found year-round in outdoor gardens. In northern areas year-round infestations are possible only indoors. Host plants include more than 250 ornamental and vegetable plants. Citrus, squash, poinsettia, potato, cucumber, grape, tomato and hibiscus are commonly infested.
Adults (1/16 inch long) are moth-like insects with powdery white wings and short antenna. They are easily recognized and often found near the tops of plants or on stem ends. Wingless nymphs are flattened, oval and almost scale-like in appearance. After the first instar, or crawler stage, they settle down and attach themselves to the underside of leaves and begin feeding.
Life Cycle
Young nymphs overwinter on the leaves of host plants. In late spring adult females deposit 200-400 eggs in circular clusters on the undersides of upper leaves. The eggs hatch in 5-10 days and first instar nymphs, which resemble small mealybugs and are called crawlers, move a short distance from the egg before flattening themselves against the leaf to feed. The remaining nymphal stages (2nd, 3rd and 4th) do not move. A non-feeding pupal stage follows and within a week, young adults emerge to repeat the cycle. There are many generations per year. Whiteflies develop from egg to adult in approximately 25 days at room temperature. Adults may live for one to two months.
Note: All of the immature stages are easily overlooked. They are usually pale, almost translucent, and blend with the color of the leaf to which they are attached. Superficially they are similar to several scale insects.
Whitefly Control
Yellow sticky traps are helpful for monitoring and suppressing adult populations.
If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
Natural predators of this pest include ladybugs and lacewing larvae, which feed on their eggs and the whitefly parasite which destroys nymphs and pupae. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived organic pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Safer® Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.
Organic Neem Oil can be sprayed on vegetables, fruit trees and flowers to kill eggs, larvae and adults. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray all leaf surfaces (including the undersides of leaves) until completely wet.
Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Common throughout North America, the tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is one of the most destructive pests of tomato, potato, pepper, eggplant and tobacco plants. They consume entire leaves, small stems, and sometimes chew pieces from fruit. Despite their large size, hornworms are often difficult to spot because of their protective coloring. Growers will often find large areas where feeding has occurred before they see this garden pest. Damage is most often noticed in midsummer and continues throughout the remainder of the growing season.
Likely to be the largest caterpillars you’ll see in the vegetable garden, tomato hornworms (3-4 inches long), are green with seven diagonal white strips and a black or red horn projecting from the rear. Adults are large (4-5 inch wingspan), heavy-bodied moths. They are gray or brown in color with white zigzags on the rear wings and orange or brownish spots on the body. Also called a sphinx or hawk moth, they fly quickly and are able to hover like a hummingbird.
Tip: To find the larvae hidden among plants, look for black droppings (frass) on the leaves and ground and spray the foliage with water. The caterpillars will thrash about and give away their hiding spots.
Life Cycle
Overwintering occurs in the soil as dark brown pupae. Adult moths emerge in late spring, mate and deposit spherical green eggs on the underside of leaves. In 5 days hatching begins and the larva passes through five or six stages before reaching full growth in 3-4 weeks. These larvae eventually burrow into the soil where they transform into the pupal stage. Adults develop in 2-4 weeks and work their way to the soil surface, where they mate and begin laying eggs for the next generation of hornworms. There are two generations per year.
Tomato Hornworm Control
Because they are so large hornworms are most often controlled in home gardens by handpicking. Once removed from the plant, they can be destroyed by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water.
Beneficial insects including lacewings, braconoid and trichogramma wasps and ladybugs attack the eggs. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Both Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis, var. kurstaki) and Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) are very effective, especially on the young caterpillars (larvae).
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with a fast-acting organic insecticide. For best results, apply to the undersides of leaves and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide.
Roto-tilling after harvest destroys overwintering pupae in the soil. This is especially effective since pupae are large and not buried very deeply in the soil. Results have shown that greater than 90% mortality is caused by normal garden tilling.
Likely to be the largest caterpillars you’ll see in the vegetable garden, tomato hornworms (3-4 inches long), are green with seven diagonal white strips and a black or red horn projecting from the rear. Adults are large (4-5 inch wingspan), heavy-bodied moths. They are gray or brown in color with white zigzags on the rear wings and orange or brownish spots on the body. Also called a sphinx or hawk moth, they fly quickly and are able to hover like a hummingbird.
Tip: To find the larvae hidden among plants, look for black droppings (frass) on the leaves and ground and spray the foliage with water. The caterpillars will thrash about and give away their hiding spots.
Life Cycle
Overwintering occurs in the soil as dark brown pupae. Adult moths emerge in late spring, mate and deposit spherical green eggs on the underside of leaves. In 5 days hatching begins and the larva passes through five or six stages before reaching full growth in 3-4 weeks. These larvae eventually burrow into the soil where they transform into the pupal stage. Adults develop in 2-4 weeks and work their way to the soil surface, where they mate and begin laying eggs for the next generation of hornworms. There are two generations per year.
Tomato Hornworm Control
Because they are so large hornworms are most often controlled in home gardens by handpicking. Once removed from the plant, they can be destroyed by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water.
Beneficial insects including lacewings, braconoid and trichogramma wasps and ladybugs attack the eggs. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Both Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis, var. kurstaki) and Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) are very effective, especially on the young caterpillars (larvae).
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with a fast-acting organic insecticide. For best results, apply to the undersides of leaves and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide.
Roto-tilling after harvest destroys overwintering pupae in the soil. This is especially effective since pupae are large and not buried very deeply in the soil. Results have shown that greater than 90% mortality is caused by normal garden tilling.
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