文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
What do yellow leaves mean on Rose of Sharon plants that you're watering well? Perhaps you're watering your rose of Sharon plants too well! 
Over-Watering is as Bad as Under-Watering
Over-watering plants is an extremely common problem, and one of the signs is yellow leaves (when they should be green). The roots of plants not tolerant of waterlogged soil won't be able to "breathe," and they die of a lack of oxygen.
Ironically, after the roots "drown" in this manner, you'll see the "drying up" of the leaves because the now debilitated roots won't be able to make use of all that water.
Drainage is Key
You may truly think that you're not over-watering; but if your soil isn't well-drained, the roots still could, in fact, be resting in waterlogged soil. If your case is, indeed, a case of poorly-drained soil, your best recourse would be to transplant the rose of Sharon plants to an area where the soil is well-drained. Prepare the area now, in the summer (peat moss can be mixed into the soil to improve drainage), and do the transplanting in autumn, once the weather cools off.
Why Only Some Plants are Dying
Are some of your plants thriving while others are showing yellow leaves and dying out? What seems a 'random' dying out might not really be so, at all. Let me draw an analogy. In a group of 20 people who smoke tobacco, some might die of cancer in their fifties, others might do so in the seventies, and still others might live to a ripe old age without becoming cancerous.
We aren't all alike, and even folks with very similar genetic makeups are subject to different environmental influences. To some degree, the same is true of plants. For all you know, the rose of Sharon plants that have survived till now may have gotten off to better starts as 'babies' and are simply a bit more resilient than those that have already died from the over-watering.
Over-Watering is as Bad as Under-Watering
Over-watering plants is an extremely common problem, and one of the signs is yellow leaves (when they should be green). The roots of plants not tolerant of waterlogged soil won't be able to "breathe," and they die of a lack of oxygen.
Ironically, after the roots "drown" in this manner, you'll see the "drying up" of the leaves because the now debilitated roots won't be able to make use of all that water.
Drainage is Key
You may truly think that you're not over-watering; but if your soil isn't well-drained, the roots still could, in fact, be resting in waterlogged soil. If your case is, indeed, a case of poorly-drained soil, your best recourse would be to transplant the rose of Sharon plants to an area where the soil is well-drained. Prepare the area now, in the summer (peat moss can be mixed into the soil to improve drainage), and do the transplanting in autumn, once the weather cools off.
Why Only Some Plants are Dying
Are some of your plants thriving while others are showing yellow leaves and dying out? What seems a 'random' dying out might not really be so, at all. Let me draw an analogy. In a group of 20 people who smoke tobacco, some might die of cancer in their fifties, others might do so in the seventies, and still others might live to a ripe old age without becoming cancerous.
We aren't all alike, and even folks with very similar genetic makeups are subject to different environmental influences. To some degree, the same is true of plants. For all you know, the rose of Sharon plants that have survived till now may have gotten off to better starts as 'babies' and are simply a bit more resilient than those that have already died from the over-watering.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
I've gotten a few questions over the past week or two from readers who have noticed white, fuzzy mold growing on their seedlings. This is a fairly common issue for those who start their own plants from seeds. Most of us plant our seeds and take care to keep the seedlings moist, but that can cause the white fuzzy mold to appear on them.
There is good news for your seedlings--and your garden, too. The fungus itself is not going to hurt your seedlings.
The bad news: that fungus is a sign that your soil is too wet. Soil that is too wet can result in having the delicate roots of your seedlings rot, which will eventually result in plant death.
How to Stop White Fuzzy Mold on Seedlings
Luckily, the mold is an easy thing to fix. Chances are, you are causing the mold by watering too much. Don't water your plants-to-be unless the seedlings really need it. It is easy to get into a routine of just giving them a quick water every day or so "just to be sure," but this can sometimes do more harm than good. Check the soil's moisture with your finger; only water if the soil is dry. That simple check can help you stop the white fuzzy mold from growing.
Rethink how much you water when you do water. You may simply need to cut down the amount of water you put on each seedling--another way to reduce white fuzzy mold for healthier seedlings.
Another thing that can help kill off the mold and prevent it from growing is to increase the air flow around your seedlings.
You can do this by having a fan running nearby for at least a few hours a day. Not only does this help prohibit fungal growth, but it also results in sturdier seedlings.
Additionally, you may want to look at how much light the seedlings are getting. They need at least twelve hours of good, strong light per day to grow well.
That also helps the water to dissipate and not sit stagnant. Try not to place them in direct sunlight, either, because covered trays can get too hot and damage the seedlings. Check the temperature, too. The best photosynthesis occurs when the temperature stays between 77°F and 82°F).
Finally, if at all possible, consider a system that lets you water from the bottom of the seedling container. This not only encourages the roots to grow deeper. It also helps alleviate mold and fungus because the surface of the soil is not constantly moist, so it cannot grow.
Once you do one or all of those things, you can actually remove the white mold from your seedlings. Gently scrape it away with a knife or spoon.
There is good news for your seedlings--and your garden, too. The fungus itself is not going to hurt your seedlings.
The bad news: that fungus is a sign that your soil is too wet. Soil that is too wet can result in having the delicate roots of your seedlings rot, which will eventually result in plant death.
How to Stop White Fuzzy Mold on Seedlings
Luckily, the mold is an easy thing to fix. Chances are, you are causing the mold by watering too much. Don't water your plants-to-be unless the seedlings really need it. It is easy to get into a routine of just giving them a quick water every day or so "just to be sure," but this can sometimes do more harm than good. Check the soil's moisture with your finger; only water if the soil is dry. That simple check can help you stop the white fuzzy mold from growing.
Rethink how much you water when you do water. You may simply need to cut down the amount of water you put on each seedling--another way to reduce white fuzzy mold for healthier seedlings.
Another thing that can help kill off the mold and prevent it from growing is to increase the air flow around your seedlings.
You can do this by having a fan running nearby for at least a few hours a day. Not only does this help prohibit fungal growth, but it also results in sturdier seedlings.
Additionally, you may want to look at how much light the seedlings are getting. They need at least twelve hours of good, strong light per day to grow well.
That also helps the water to dissipate and not sit stagnant. Try not to place them in direct sunlight, either, because covered trays can get too hot and damage the seedlings. Check the temperature, too. The best photosynthesis occurs when the temperature stays between 77°F and 82°F).
Finally, if at all possible, consider a system that lets you water from the bottom of the seedling container. This not only encourages the roots to grow deeper. It also helps alleviate mold and fungus because the surface of the soil is not constantly moist, so it cannot grow.
Once you do one or all of those things, you can actually remove the white mold from your seedlings. Gently scrape it away with a knife or spoon.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Leaf tip browning is an annoying condition that commonly affects certain types of houseplants. Spider plants, tropical plants, and those with long, strappy leaves are especially susceptible. The main difficulty when confronting leaf tip burn is to remember that it's a symptom of a larger problem (usually a cultural issue), as opposed to a condition in itself. So once your plant has burned leaf tips or margins, there's no way to reverse the damage at that wounded location.
The only thing to do is correct the underlying problem and hope the plant continues its healthy growth.
The other problem with a leaf-tip burn is figuring out which of the possible factors may be causing it. Is it the water? Your fertilizer habits? The humidity? You might not know right away, so the best idea is, to begin with, the most likely condition, change it to the extent possible, and wait to see what happens. If new growth is unaffected or the scorching stops, you've figured it out. If it continues, then move on to the next condition and work on that.
Ideally, you'll catch leaf-tip burn early enough that the plant's appearance won't be completely ruined.
These are the factors that can potentially cause leaf-tip burn:
Watering issues. Leaf scorching can be a sign of erratic or insufficient watering or low humidity. It is especially true for tropical plants, which dislike the parched conditions in most centrally heated homes in the winter. These plants are evolved to luxuriate in humidity levels that range between 60 and 100 percent in their rainforest homes. A winter-time home can easily go to 20% humidity, which can cause leaf scorching. The solution is to raise the humidity—mist the plants, use a pebble tray, or relocate the plant to an area with higher humidity such as the kitchen or bathroom. Also, remember that plants with strappy leaves have a greater challenge to move water from the roots to the ends of the leaves, so these plants are likely to show leaf-tip scorching faster than plants with shorter leaves. Finally, if you suspect your water is highly alkaline (a pH above 7), consider finding a more neutral water source. Plants prefer a slightly acidic environment.
Fertilizer issues. Fertilizer salts can cause leaf scorching, especially if large doses are fertilizer are applied. If you notice scorching on your plants shortly after feeding a heavy dose of fertilizer, it might be a problem with your fertilizer. Flush the soil with clean water several times to remove accumulated fertilizer salts and be more careful in the future.
Fluoride. The idea that fluoride can damage houseplants has taken off recently, but the truth is that fluoride damage is usually limited to plants in the Dracaena family. These plants are susceptible to fluoride damage over the long-term, so if you're experiencing leaf burn in a Dracaena species, switch to un-fluoridated water. If the plant isn't dracaena, it's unlikely that fluoride is the issue.
Cold damage. Closely related to water stress, many houseplants aren't acclimated to cold, drafty conditions (by a winter window, for instance). Cold damage often shows up in the extremities first, meaning the leaf margins and leaf tips. If your tropical plants suffer from leaf scorching during the winter months, try to raise the temperature (and humidity, most likely) around them.
Sun damage. Sun damage usually shows up as yellowing of the whole leaf, or even scorched spots on the leaves. Nevertheless, if your plant has recently been subjected to a change of direct light it's receiving, this could be the culprit.
Chemical damage. It is less likely to result in leaf-scorching, but it's possible. Household pesticides and cleaning chemicals can burn plants in some cases, so be aware of what you're using on your plants.
Ultimately, a leaf-tip burn is almost always a cultural problem—fungal and bacterial diseases are typically more widespread across the leaf surface and usually involve the stem as well. So the best way to correct leaf-tip burn and margin scorching is to ask what cultural conditions might be causing the condition, then making an effort to fix them.
The only thing to do is correct the underlying problem and hope the plant continues its healthy growth.
The other problem with a leaf-tip burn is figuring out which of the possible factors may be causing it. Is it the water? Your fertilizer habits? The humidity? You might not know right away, so the best idea is, to begin with, the most likely condition, change it to the extent possible, and wait to see what happens. If new growth is unaffected or the scorching stops, you've figured it out. If it continues, then move on to the next condition and work on that.
Ideally, you'll catch leaf-tip burn early enough that the plant's appearance won't be completely ruined.
These are the factors that can potentially cause leaf-tip burn:
Watering issues. Leaf scorching can be a sign of erratic or insufficient watering or low humidity. It is especially true for tropical plants, which dislike the parched conditions in most centrally heated homes in the winter. These plants are evolved to luxuriate in humidity levels that range between 60 and 100 percent in their rainforest homes. A winter-time home can easily go to 20% humidity, which can cause leaf scorching. The solution is to raise the humidity—mist the plants, use a pebble tray, or relocate the plant to an area with higher humidity such as the kitchen or bathroom. Also, remember that plants with strappy leaves have a greater challenge to move water from the roots to the ends of the leaves, so these plants are likely to show leaf-tip scorching faster than plants with shorter leaves. Finally, if you suspect your water is highly alkaline (a pH above 7), consider finding a more neutral water source. Plants prefer a slightly acidic environment.
Fertilizer issues. Fertilizer salts can cause leaf scorching, especially if large doses are fertilizer are applied. If you notice scorching on your plants shortly after feeding a heavy dose of fertilizer, it might be a problem with your fertilizer. Flush the soil with clean water several times to remove accumulated fertilizer salts and be more careful in the future.
Fluoride. The idea that fluoride can damage houseplants has taken off recently, but the truth is that fluoride damage is usually limited to plants in the Dracaena family. These plants are susceptible to fluoride damage over the long-term, so if you're experiencing leaf burn in a Dracaena species, switch to un-fluoridated water. If the plant isn't dracaena, it's unlikely that fluoride is the issue.
Cold damage. Closely related to water stress, many houseplants aren't acclimated to cold, drafty conditions (by a winter window, for instance). Cold damage often shows up in the extremities first, meaning the leaf margins and leaf tips. If your tropical plants suffer from leaf scorching during the winter months, try to raise the temperature (and humidity, most likely) around them.
Sun damage. Sun damage usually shows up as yellowing of the whole leaf, or even scorched spots on the leaves. Nevertheless, if your plant has recently been subjected to a change of direct light it's receiving, this could be the culprit.
Chemical damage. It is less likely to result in leaf-scorching, but it's possible. Household pesticides and cleaning chemicals can burn plants in some cases, so be aware of what you're using on your plants.
Ultimately, a leaf-tip burn is almost always a cultural problem—fungal and bacterial diseases are typically more widespread across the leaf surface and usually involve the stem as well. So the best way to correct leaf-tip burn and margin scorching is to ask what cultural conditions might be causing the condition, then making an effort to fix them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
What Is Azalea Leaf Gall?
First of all, let's consider what a "gall" is, in general, in the context of horticulture. A gall is a tumor-like eruption in plant tissue. A number of different plants are susceptible. The two types of plants upon which I most commonly find galls are:
Oak trees
Goldenrod
A gall represents the plant's reaction to damage caused by an invading agent. In the case of azalea galls, that agent is a fungus (see below).
But there are other agents that cause galls to develop on other plants. For example, one master gardener has written about the leaf galls caused by insects on various trees.
Regarding azalea leaf galls, specifically, you will notice two different phases (which may be present at the same time on the same plant, as in my picture):
In phase one, the swollen leaf tissue is waxy and most often pale green.
In phase two, it is a gray blob (and more recognizable to the beginner as some sort of fungus).
Even the flowers on azalea bushes can be infested with galls.
What to Do About Azalea Leaf Galls
First of all, take solace in the fact that their bark is worse than their bite. As alien-looking and repulsive as azalea leaf galls are, they are not considered overly serious. They are caused by the fungus, Exobasidium vaccinii. Pick off the leaves where the azalea leaf galls occur and dispose of them properly.
Do not put them in the compost bin, and do not leave them lying around on the ground, lest the fungus spread to other branches.
For preventive care, avoid letting the soil become compacted around your azaleas. You can accomplish this in a number of ways, including by:
Working ample amounts of humus into the soil
Applying landscape mulch around the plants
Furthermore, as is usually the case when dealing with fungus prevention, make it a point to apply water to your azalea shrubs down at ground level, rather than spraying from above. The latter practice gets the foliage all wet, which is an open invitation to fungi.
Having said all that, overall, I have found the amount of time I need to put into azalea care to be relatively minimal here in the Northeastern U.S. Care has consisted mainly of occasionally spraying neem oil on my Gibraltar azalea to kill aphids.
First of all, let's consider what a "gall" is, in general, in the context of horticulture. A gall is a tumor-like eruption in plant tissue. A number of different plants are susceptible. The two types of plants upon which I most commonly find galls are:
Oak trees
Goldenrod
A gall represents the plant's reaction to damage caused by an invading agent. In the case of azalea galls, that agent is a fungus (see below).
But there are other agents that cause galls to develop on other plants. For example, one master gardener has written about the leaf galls caused by insects on various trees.
Regarding azalea leaf galls, specifically, you will notice two different phases (which may be present at the same time on the same plant, as in my picture):
In phase one, the swollen leaf tissue is waxy and most often pale green.
In phase two, it is a gray blob (and more recognizable to the beginner as some sort of fungus).
Even the flowers on azalea bushes can be infested with galls.
What to Do About Azalea Leaf Galls
First of all, take solace in the fact that their bark is worse than their bite. As alien-looking and repulsive as azalea leaf galls are, they are not considered overly serious. They are caused by the fungus, Exobasidium vaccinii. Pick off the leaves where the azalea leaf galls occur and dispose of them properly.
Do not put them in the compost bin, and do not leave them lying around on the ground, lest the fungus spread to other branches.
For preventive care, avoid letting the soil become compacted around your azaleas. You can accomplish this in a number of ways, including by:
Working ample amounts of humus into the soil
Applying landscape mulch around the plants
Furthermore, as is usually the case when dealing with fungus prevention, make it a point to apply water to your azalea shrubs down at ground level, rather than spraying from above. The latter practice gets the foliage all wet, which is an open invitation to fungi.
Having said all that, overall, I have found the amount of time I need to put into azalea care to be relatively minimal here in the Northeastern U.S. Care has consisted mainly of occasionally spraying neem oil on my Gibraltar azalea to kill aphids.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
A reader wrote in about newly transplanted weigela shrubs suffering from leaf-wilt, noting that it had been very windy in his area of late. The weigela leaves wilted in spite of his keeping the ground damp. So are the plants dead? What, if anything, can be done for plants with wilted leaves?
See my answer below:
Why Do Leaves Wilt?
It is important to realize that not all leaf-wilt is created equal. Rather, there are a number of different reasons why leaves wilt.
Before taking any action, you must determine which of these reasons applies to your wilting plant:
Damaged roots
Lack of water
Fungal infection
Plant roots draw water out of the ground and send it up through the above-ground parts of the plant. If the roots are damaged, the flow of water to the leaves is reduced. Wilting leaves can result.
Roots can sustain damage from a number of sources, including from:
Transplant shock
Physical injury from digging (while cultivating around the plant, etc.)
Overwatering
It is common when transplanting shrubs, including weigela shrubs, to cause transplant shock. The disturbed roots find it difficult to nourish the leaves with sufficient water in their damaged state, as the roots of a healthy, established shrub would. High winds simply exacerbate the problem: they have a drying effect that further robs the leaves of moisture. The result is leaf-wilt.
Direct Answer to the Reader's Question
Assuming that transplant shock is the reason behind the wilting leaves in your case, the positive actions you can take to help the weigela shrubs, at this point, are limited.
Unfortunately, only forethought can prevent (or, at least, minimize) the effects of transplant shock. Windbreaks would have been effective (to shelter your weigela from drying winds). Likewise, you can prevent or minimize leaf-wilt by picking the best times to transplant. By avoiding transplanting at the hottest times of the year, you put less stress on the plants' root systems, thereby keeping them healthier.
But the good news is that your weigela bushes are not dead: they just need time to recover.
Here is what not to do: do not fertilize. Fertilizing would foster extra leaf growth -- which you do not want, since the weigela shrubs' disturbed roots are already struggling to support the current amount of foliage.
Do water your weigela shrubs when the soil is dry, but do not overwater. When a plant's roots have been damaged (from transplant shock or any other source), they have to be given time to heal. Flooding a root system with water when that system is incapable of absorbing the water is, at best, useless and, at worst, counterproductive.
Root damage can also be caused by digging too close to your plant while cultivating. For example, some gardeners will dig around a plant to remove weeds and accidentally sever roots in the process. You can largely avoid this problem by mulching. Others make the mistake of cutting into root systems when working compost or manure into the soil. Here the solution is to apply, instead, a compost tea or manure tea, which involves no digging. Again, once the damage has occurred, resist the temptation to combat the resulting leaf-wilt by overwatering (which will do no good).
Finally, overwatering, itself can damage plant roots. The roots essentially rot and lose their ability to take up water. Adding more water in such a case can be like adding fuel to a fire.
What if the Reason for Leaf-Wilt Is Not Root Damage?
I have already mentioned a couple of alternate reasons for leaf-wilt, above. One is a soil fungus. Weigela shrubs are, in fact, one of the plants susceptible to the fungus, Verticillium wilt. According the University of Minnesota Extension (UVM), one way to identify this fungus is to look for "a scorched appearance" on leaf margins. To combat Verticillium wilt, UVM recommends selecting resistant plants and providing basic care (proper watering, fertilizing, etc.).
That leaves one last cause of leaf-wilt, the one that most gardeners think of immediately: namely, lack of water.
Yes, sometimes the reason is no more complicated than that the soil has dried out around your plant. If you do not see scorched leaf margins on your plant and have no reason to believe that root damage has occurred, you're lucky. Solving the problem is as easy as giving the plant a drink of water.
See my answer below:
Why Do Leaves Wilt?
It is important to realize that not all leaf-wilt is created equal. Rather, there are a number of different reasons why leaves wilt.
Before taking any action, you must determine which of these reasons applies to your wilting plant:
Damaged roots
Lack of water
Fungal infection
Plant roots draw water out of the ground and send it up through the above-ground parts of the plant. If the roots are damaged, the flow of water to the leaves is reduced. Wilting leaves can result.
Roots can sustain damage from a number of sources, including from:
Transplant shock
Physical injury from digging (while cultivating around the plant, etc.)
Overwatering
It is common when transplanting shrubs, including weigela shrubs, to cause transplant shock. The disturbed roots find it difficult to nourish the leaves with sufficient water in their damaged state, as the roots of a healthy, established shrub would. High winds simply exacerbate the problem: they have a drying effect that further robs the leaves of moisture. The result is leaf-wilt.
Direct Answer to the Reader's Question
Assuming that transplant shock is the reason behind the wilting leaves in your case, the positive actions you can take to help the weigela shrubs, at this point, are limited.
Unfortunately, only forethought can prevent (or, at least, minimize) the effects of transplant shock. Windbreaks would have been effective (to shelter your weigela from drying winds). Likewise, you can prevent or minimize leaf-wilt by picking the best times to transplant. By avoiding transplanting at the hottest times of the year, you put less stress on the plants' root systems, thereby keeping them healthier.
But the good news is that your weigela bushes are not dead: they just need time to recover.
Here is what not to do: do not fertilize. Fertilizing would foster extra leaf growth -- which you do not want, since the weigela shrubs' disturbed roots are already struggling to support the current amount of foliage.
Do water your weigela shrubs when the soil is dry, but do not overwater. When a plant's roots have been damaged (from transplant shock or any other source), they have to be given time to heal. Flooding a root system with water when that system is incapable of absorbing the water is, at best, useless and, at worst, counterproductive.
Root damage can also be caused by digging too close to your plant while cultivating. For example, some gardeners will dig around a plant to remove weeds and accidentally sever roots in the process. You can largely avoid this problem by mulching. Others make the mistake of cutting into root systems when working compost or manure into the soil. Here the solution is to apply, instead, a compost tea or manure tea, which involves no digging. Again, once the damage has occurred, resist the temptation to combat the resulting leaf-wilt by overwatering (which will do no good).
Finally, overwatering, itself can damage plant roots. The roots essentially rot and lose their ability to take up water. Adding more water in such a case can be like adding fuel to a fire.
What if the Reason for Leaf-Wilt Is Not Root Damage?
I have already mentioned a couple of alternate reasons for leaf-wilt, above. One is a soil fungus. Weigela shrubs are, in fact, one of the plants susceptible to the fungus, Verticillium wilt. According the University of Minnesota Extension (UVM), one way to identify this fungus is to look for "a scorched appearance" on leaf margins. To combat Verticillium wilt, UVM recommends selecting resistant plants and providing basic care (proper watering, fertilizing, etc.).
That leaves one last cause of leaf-wilt, the one that most gardeners think of immediately: namely, lack of water.
Yes, sometimes the reason is no more complicated than that the soil has dried out around your plant. If you do not see scorched leaf margins on your plant and have no reason to believe that root damage has occurred, you're lucky. Solving the problem is as easy as giving the plant a drink of water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
One day your clematis vine is thriving and ready to flower. The next day it’s withering before your eyes. What happened? Chances are it’s a fairly common fungus that affects clematis plants, called clematis wilt. Clematis wilt can kill the entire top of your clematis vine, but the roots should still survive. Here's how to identify this quick spreading disease and what you can do about it.
What Does Clematis Wilt Look Like?
Clematis wilt is a fungus disease (Ascochyta clematidina) that is also sometimes referred to as clematis leaf and stem spot.
Clematis wilt causes the foliage and stems of your clematis vine to dry and whither, possibly even turning black. You may start to see reddish lesions along the stems, but the onset and spread of clematis wilt can be quick. That means you may not have any warning before an entire clematis vine turns brown. However it’s not unheard of for only a few stems to be affected, so if you see sudden discoloring, take heed.
What Causes Clematis Wilt?
Clematis wilt is spread by spores that probably remained in the area on the debris of last year's vines, or possibly were blown in on the wind, from another nearby clematis plant. Like most fugal diseases, it is more prevalent in damp or humid weather. If your clematis vine is thick and tangled and remains wet well into the day, it will be even more prone to attack.
On older clematis plants, the woody portion near the ground is often the first area affected.
It may also be the area where the spores over-wintered.
Once affected, the plant begins to die back because the fungus cuts off its vascular, or circulatory, system and no water can be carried through the plant. Left untreated, clematis wilt will spread throughout the plant and can kill a heavily infested plant.
What to Do for Affected Plants
The good news is that clematis plants can recover from wilt, because it does not attack their root system. However, the bad news is that you can lose the entire top growth of your vine, during flowering time.
To give your clematis the best chance of surviving clematis wilt, at the first sign of withering or drying, cut the affected stems back to ground level. It sounds severe, but it can save your plant. Dispose of the cuttings somewhere other than the compost.
Since the roots were not affected, new shoots should emerge from the base shortly after cutting. If your plant does not re-sprout within a few weeks, don't give up. Washington State University Extension’s fact sheet said “One resource on this subject states that renewed shoots can appear up to three years after the problem, so do not lose heart if this happens.”
After pruning back the diseased vine, keep the clematis roots watered, even if there is no top growth.
How to Help Prevent Clematis Wilt from Coming Back
To lessen the chance of clematis wilt re-infesting next year, remove all remaining vine and leaf growth in the fall and dispose of it outside of the garden and somewhere other than your compost bin.
The fungus can easily over-winter in the dead foliage.
If you wish to use a preventative fungicide, sulfur is recommended. Spray in the spring, when new growth first appears.
Are All Clematis Susceptible to Clematis Wilt?
To some degree, yes, clematis wilt can attack any type of clematis. The larger flowered varieties are most prone, while some of the smaller flowering varieties, like Clematis alpina and Clematis viticella, show better resistance.
There is also some evidence that the older and better established a plant is, the less likely it is to become infected, but it's no guarantee. The best you can do is keep your plant in good health, prune your type of clematis when you should, and be on the alert.
What Does Clematis Wilt Look Like?
Clematis wilt is a fungus disease (Ascochyta clematidina) that is also sometimes referred to as clematis leaf and stem spot.
Clematis wilt causes the foliage and stems of your clematis vine to dry and whither, possibly even turning black. You may start to see reddish lesions along the stems, but the onset and spread of clematis wilt can be quick. That means you may not have any warning before an entire clematis vine turns brown. However it’s not unheard of for only a few stems to be affected, so if you see sudden discoloring, take heed.
What Causes Clematis Wilt?
Clematis wilt is spread by spores that probably remained in the area on the debris of last year's vines, or possibly were blown in on the wind, from another nearby clematis plant. Like most fugal diseases, it is more prevalent in damp or humid weather. If your clematis vine is thick and tangled and remains wet well into the day, it will be even more prone to attack.
On older clematis plants, the woody portion near the ground is often the first area affected.
It may also be the area where the spores over-wintered.
Once affected, the plant begins to die back because the fungus cuts off its vascular, or circulatory, system and no water can be carried through the plant. Left untreated, clematis wilt will spread throughout the plant and can kill a heavily infested plant.
What to Do for Affected Plants
The good news is that clematis plants can recover from wilt, because it does not attack their root system. However, the bad news is that you can lose the entire top growth of your vine, during flowering time.
To give your clematis the best chance of surviving clematis wilt, at the first sign of withering or drying, cut the affected stems back to ground level. It sounds severe, but it can save your plant. Dispose of the cuttings somewhere other than the compost.
Since the roots were not affected, new shoots should emerge from the base shortly after cutting. If your plant does not re-sprout within a few weeks, don't give up. Washington State University Extension’s fact sheet said “One resource on this subject states that renewed shoots can appear up to three years after the problem, so do not lose heart if this happens.”
After pruning back the diseased vine, keep the clematis roots watered, even if there is no top growth.
How to Help Prevent Clematis Wilt from Coming Back
To lessen the chance of clematis wilt re-infesting next year, remove all remaining vine and leaf growth in the fall and dispose of it outside of the garden and somewhere other than your compost bin.
The fungus can easily over-winter in the dead foliage.
If you wish to use a preventative fungicide, sulfur is recommended. Spray in the spring, when new growth first appears.
Are All Clematis Susceptible to Clematis Wilt?
To some degree, yes, clematis wilt can attack any type of clematis. The larger flowered varieties are most prone, while some of the smaller flowering varieties, like Clematis alpina and Clematis viticella, show better resistance.
There is also some evidence that the older and better established a plant is, the less likely it is to become infected, but it's no guarantee. The best you can do is keep your plant in good health, prune your type of clematis when you should, and be on the alert.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Plants need insects for pollination, so no garden should be insect-free, but there's no denying some insects are garden pests. Learning to identify which insects to worry about and which to welcome is part of the learning process of gardening. Here are a handful of common garden insects. Some are garden pests, some are beneficial and some are just passing through. Always assess the situation before spraying. But when you must treat the problem, the info offered here will be helpful.
Lady Beetle (Ladybug) Nymphs
Not all bugs are bad. Most gardeners know that ladybugs or lady beetles are voracious aphid eaters and very welcome in the garden. What many don't know is that the in the nymph stage, these beetles are almost unrecognizable and they look like something you don't want on your plant's leaves. Learning to recognize the good guys is an important part of integrated pest management in the garden.
Leaf Miners
Squiggly lines through a plant's leaves usually signal the work of leaf miners. Leaf miners are the larva of various insects. Eggs that were laid on the leaves hatch and the larva burrow inside the leaf tissue, feeding their way through the leaf and leaving a transparent trail of where they've been. Some plants, like columbine, are especially prone to leaf miners. Gain some tips for controlling or even avoiding leaf miner damage.
Scale Insects
Scale insects look like little bumps along the stems of plants and are often mistaken for some type of disease. They adhere themselves to the plant and suck on the plant's juices, drying it out and causing serious damage. There are thousands of species of scale and each type has their favorite plants to feast on, so many plants can become infected with scale. Mealy bugs, those fussy, cotton covered insects often found on stems and in the stem and leaf joints, are in the scale family. Here's how to get rid of scale insects on plants.
Japanese Beetle Control
Is there any garden pest as reviled as the Japanese beetle? As an adult, it can defoliate plants in an afternoon. As a grub, it destroys your lawn. And there alarming rate of reproduction makes matters even worse. The pheromone traps that are often sold to control adult Japanese beetles in your yard were actually developed to monitor the size of the Japanese beetle population: meaning they were designed to attract every beetle in the area, which is exactly what you don't need. Find some better suggestions here.
Spittlebugs (or Froghoppers)
Every now and then you'll see a clump of foam on one of your plants that looks like someone spit on it. Close -- more likely it's the spittlebug at work. The actual bug is very tiny and he's hiding from predators under this mass of froth. It fools the birds, but it's a red flag for gardeners. Don't let it worry you. Spittlebugs do little damage to the plant and they'll be on their way in no time flat. Curious about what's in the foam? Read on for more about spittlebugs.
Lady Beetle (Ladybug) Nymphs
Not all bugs are bad. Most gardeners know that ladybugs or lady beetles are voracious aphid eaters and very welcome in the garden. What many don't know is that the in the nymph stage, these beetles are almost unrecognizable and they look like something you don't want on your plant's leaves. Learning to recognize the good guys is an important part of integrated pest management in the garden.
Leaf Miners
Squiggly lines through a plant's leaves usually signal the work of leaf miners. Leaf miners are the larva of various insects. Eggs that were laid on the leaves hatch and the larva burrow inside the leaf tissue, feeding their way through the leaf and leaving a transparent trail of where they've been. Some plants, like columbine, are especially prone to leaf miners. Gain some tips for controlling or even avoiding leaf miner damage.
Scale Insects
Scale insects look like little bumps along the stems of plants and are often mistaken for some type of disease. They adhere themselves to the plant and suck on the plant's juices, drying it out and causing serious damage. There are thousands of species of scale and each type has their favorite plants to feast on, so many plants can become infected with scale. Mealy bugs, those fussy, cotton covered insects often found on stems and in the stem and leaf joints, are in the scale family. Here's how to get rid of scale insects on plants.
Japanese Beetle Control
Is there any garden pest as reviled as the Japanese beetle? As an adult, it can defoliate plants in an afternoon. As a grub, it destroys your lawn. And there alarming rate of reproduction makes matters even worse. The pheromone traps that are often sold to control adult Japanese beetles in your yard were actually developed to monitor the size of the Japanese beetle population: meaning they were designed to attract every beetle in the area, which is exactly what you don't need. Find some better suggestions here.
Spittlebugs (or Froghoppers)
Every now and then you'll see a clump of foam on one of your plants that looks like someone spit on it. Close -- more likely it's the spittlebug at work. The actual bug is very tiny and he's hiding from predators under this mass of froth. It fools the birds, but it's a red flag for gardeners. Don't let it worry you. Spittlebugs do little damage to the plant and they'll be on their way in no time flat. Curious about what's in the foam? Read on for more about spittlebugs.
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meriunkat
2017年09月13日
Also on your way to Instagram go follow fortheloveofsucculents
She has helped me find the names of many of my plants with her beautiful succulent pictures.🌵🌱🌸💚🌈
She has helped me find the names of many of my plants with her beautiful succulent pictures.🌵🌱🌸💚🌈
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
What is Powdery Mildew?
Powdery mildew is one of the most commonly occurring plants problems. It is a fungal disease that affects plant leaves and stems, coating them in what looks like a white or gray powder-like substance. Although any plant can get powdery mildew, some are very susceptible, crab apples, cucumbers and all types of squash, lilacs, phlox and roses. In severe cases, powdery mildew can even spread to the buds, flowers, and fruits of plants.
The white coating greatly diminishes the appearance of the plant, but it is not fatal unless left uncontrolled. However, as it spreads, it stresses and weakens the plant and makes it hard for photosynthesis to occur. It's wise to treat it as soon as you see symptoms, or maybe even before.
Controlling Powdery Mildew with Baking Soda
Baking soda has long been used as an inexpensive control for powdery mildew on plants. Unfortunately baking soda fungicide is mostly effective as a preventative, offering only minimal benefits after your plants have become infected. If you know which plants are susceptible, spraying them weekly with the baking soda recipes, during humid or damp weather, can greatly reduce the incidence of powdery mildew in your garden.
To control powdery mildew on plants, mix together:
1 tablespoon of baking soda
½ teaspoon of liquid soap
1 gallon of water
Do not store unused mixture.
While this recipe has been known to be effective, it can burn the leaves of some plants. It is recommended that you water your infected plants well a couple of days before applying this mixture, and don’t apply it in full sun. Try on a small area first, to test the plant’s response before spraying the entire plant.
Some recipes also recommend applying 1 tablespoon of ultralight horticultural oil to the mixture. The oil coats and smothers the fungi. The soap is added to help the mix spread and cling to the leaf surface. Be sure to apply to lower leaf surfaces as well.
Control versus Cure
Unfortunately, this baking soda mixture works best as a preventative, applied before powdery mildew has a chance to spread on your plant. It is less effective as a cure, once the fungus has taken hold. If you know a plant is affected by powdery mildew year after year, as is the case with many monarda, pholx, and lilacs, they spraying early in the season may prevent any occurrence of powdery mildew that year. It is still worth trying after signs of powdery mildew appear, but it might not get rid of all the fungus.
Another Homemade Powdery Mildew Option
Spraying plants with a milk mixture, after they have been infected with powdery mildew, is showing a lot of promise for actually killing the fungus. Read more about how to use milk to control powdery mildew.
There May be More Uses for This Baking Soda Recipe
Researchers are still studying the effects of using a baking soda mixture on other fungal diseases such as: black spot, rust and anthracnose.
Powdery mildew is one of the most commonly occurring plants problems. It is a fungal disease that affects plant leaves and stems, coating them in what looks like a white or gray powder-like substance. Although any plant can get powdery mildew, some are very susceptible, crab apples, cucumbers and all types of squash, lilacs, phlox and roses. In severe cases, powdery mildew can even spread to the buds, flowers, and fruits of plants.
The white coating greatly diminishes the appearance of the plant, but it is not fatal unless left uncontrolled. However, as it spreads, it stresses and weakens the plant and makes it hard for photosynthesis to occur. It's wise to treat it as soon as you see symptoms, or maybe even before.
Controlling Powdery Mildew with Baking Soda
Baking soda has long been used as an inexpensive control for powdery mildew on plants. Unfortunately baking soda fungicide is mostly effective as a preventative, offering only minimal benefits after your plants have become infected. If you know which plants are susceptible, spraying them weekly with the baking soda recipes, during humid or damp weather, can greatly reduce the incidence of powdery mildew in your garden.
To control powdery mildew on plants, mix together:
1 tablespoon of baking soda
½ teaspoon of liquid soap
1 gallon of water
Do not store unused mixture.
While this recipe has been known to be effective, it can burn the leaves of some plants. It is recommended that you water your infected plants well a couple of days before applying this mixture, and don’t apply it in full sun. Try on a small area first, to test the plant’s response before spraying the entire plant.
Some recipes also recommend applying 1 tablespoon of ultralight horticultural oil to the mixture. The oil coats and smothers the fungi. The soap is added to help the mix spread and cling to the leaf surface. Be sure to apply to lower leaf surfaces as well.
Control versus Cure
Unfortunately, this baking soda mixture works best as a preventative, applied before powdery mildew has a chance to spread on your plant. It is less effective as a cure, once the fungus has taken hold. If you know a plant is affected by powdery mildew year after year, as is the case with many monarda, pholx, and lilacs, they spraying early in the season may prevent any occurrence of powdery mildew that year. It is still worth trying after signs of powdery mildew appear, but it might not get rid of all the fungus.
Another Homemade Powdery Mildew Option
Spraying plants with a milk mixture, after they have been infected with powdery mildew, is showing a lot of promise for actually killing the fungus. Read more about how to use milk to control powdery mildew.
There May be More Uses for This Baking Soda Recipe
Researchers are still studying the effects of using a baking soda mixture on other fungal diseases such as: black spot, rust and anthracnose.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that results in a powdery gray or white coating on the leaves and stems of infected plants. Several different species of fungi in the order Erysiphales can cause the disease, though the symptoms are always similar. A powdery mildew infection generally starts out as a few spores on the leaves but quickly spreads. The white powdery surface is a thick coating of the fungi spores.
The fungi easily overwinters in garden debris, and thus is very hard to eradicate entirely. It can eventually cause yellowing the leaves and premature leaf drop.
As virtually all gardeners know, powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions with moderate temperatures. In any region with humid summers, powdery mildew virtually always makes its appearance. While it can affect any plants, there are certain species much more susceptible to heavy infection:
Some Plants Susceptible to Powdery Mildew:
Apples
Begonia
California poppy
Dahlia
Delphinium
Hollyhock
Hydrangea
Lilacs
Monarda
Oak
Strawberries
Phlox
Roses
Strawberries
Zinnia
Damage to Plants
In many cases, powdery mildew does little damage to plants but is merely unattractive. And some plants seem so susceptible to powdery mildew that it is virtually unavoidable--an expected cost if you choose to grow these species. Many gardeners simply resign themselves to the fact that powdery mildew will make an appearance nearly every year and don't bother to fight it aggressively.
But besides being unattractive, powdery mildew can in extreme cases result in leaf yellowing and dropping, stunted plant growth, distortion of buds, blooms, and fruit, and eventual overall weakening of the plant.
Disease Life Cycle
Spores overwinter on diseased plant parts and begin asexual production of new spores once the weather warms.
New spores are carried on the wind to other parts of the plant or to other nearby plants. Spores never stop producing more spores, so if infected leaves are not destroyed, the problem can never be eradicated and will only get worse.
Treatment and Prevention
Powdery mildew thrives in temperatures between 60° and 80°F. Dry, shady conditions are ideal, as are areas with poor air circulation. Few chemical fungicides offer much cure for powdery mildew; the best strategies are more mechanical in nature, such as simply removing and destroying diseased plants and plant parts.
Planting disease-resistant cultivars and making sure you allow for good air flow are two ways to guard against powdery mildew. Beyond this, possible control methods to keep powdery mildew in check include the following:
Plant species that are most susceptible in a location where they can receive early morning sun. This will allow condensation to dry out quickly and reduce the humid conditions that foster the fungus.
Enhance air circulation by spacing plants well apart. Better ventilation will reduce the disease. Dense plants can be thinned out to improve air flow.
Inspect plants regularly during warm, dry conditions, and remove any leaves that show signs of infection. Destroy (do not compost!) infected plant parts.
A spray made with baking soda, if applied weekly at the first signs of infection, can protect plants against further damage.
Plants that are badly infected should be ripped out and destroyed to prevent the disease from spreading further.
A commercially available organic option is Neem oil, which both treats existing powdery mildew and protects the plant against further infection.
Interestingly enough, an effective measure in preventing and treating powdery mildew is to spray the foliage of your plants daily with plain water from the hose. Powdery mildew hates water! The only caveat with this method is to be sure you do it early in the day so that the foliage completely dries before cooler evening temperatures arrive, otherwise you may invite other fungal diseases such as black spotinto your garden.
The fungi easily overwinters in garden debris, and thus is very hard to eradicate entirely. It can eventually cause yellowing the leaves and premature leaf drop.
As virtually all gardeners know, powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions with moderate temperatures. In any region with humid summers, powdery mildew virtually always makes its appearance. While it can affect any plants, there are certain species much more susceptible to heavy infection:
Some Plants Susceptible to Powdery Mildew:
Apples
Begonia
California poppy
Dahlia
Delphinium
Hollyhock
Hydrangea
Lilacs
Monarda
Oak
Strawberries
Phlox
Roses
Strawberries
Zinnia
Damage to Plants
In many cases, powdery mildew does little damage to plants but is merely unattractive. And some plants seem so susceptible to powdery mildew that it is virtually unavoidable--an expected cost if you choose to grow these species. Many gardeners simply resign themselves to the fact that powdery mildew will make an appearance nearly every year and don't bother to fight it aggressively.
But besides being unattractive, powdery mildew can in extreme cases result in leaf yellowing and dropping, stunted plant growth, distortion of buds, blooms, and fruit, and eventual overall weakening of the plant.
Disease Life Cycle
Spores overwinter on diseased plant parts and begin asexual production of new spores once the weather warms.
New spores are carried on the wind to other parts of the plant or to other nearby plants. Spores never stop producing more spores, so if infected leaves are not destroyed, the problem can never be eradicated and will only get worse.
Treatment and Prevention
Powdery mildew thrives in temperatures between 60° and 80°F. Dry, shady conditions are ideal, as are areas with poor air circulation. Few chemical fungicides offer much cure for powdery mildew; the best strategies are more mechanical in nature, such as simply removing and destroying diseased plants and plant parts.
Planting disease-resistant cultivars and making sure you allow for good air flow are two ways to guard against powdery mildew. Beyond this, possible control methods to keep powdery mildew in check include the following:
Plant species that are most susceptible in a location where they can receive early morning sun. This will allow condensation to dry out quickly and reduce the humid conditions that foster the fungus.
Enhance air circulation by spacing plants well apart. Better ventilation will reduce the disease. Dense plants can be thinned out to improve air flow.
Inspect plants regularly during warm, dry conditions, and remove any leaves that show signs of infection. Destroy (do not compost!) infected plant parts.
A spray made with baking soda, if applied weekly at the first signs of infection, can protect plants against further damage.
Plants that are badly infected should be ripped out and destroyed to prevent the disease from spreading further.
A commercially available organic option is Neem oil, which both treats existing powdery mildew and protects the plant against further infection.
Interestingly enough, an effective measure in preventing and treating powdery mildew is to spray the foliage of your plants daily with plain water from the hose. Powdery mildew hates water! The only caveat with this method is to be sure you do it early in the day so that the foliage completely dries before cooler evening temperatures arrive, otherwise you may invite other fungal diseases such as black spotinto your garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Description
Black spot is basically what it sounds like: roundish black spots on leaf surfaces. The spots grow over time, and the foliage around the spot yellows. Eventually, the entire leaf falls off.
Damage to Plants
The issue with black spot is that the defoliation that occurs when the fungus is allowed to get out of control weakens the plant. And not just for the current growing season, but for the next season as well.
The main function of plant foliage is to absorb energy from the sun and perform photosynthesis. If your plant loses all or most of its leaves to black spot, it will be unable to collect and store energy for the winter, as well as for the burst of growth that occurs in spring. You'll see weaker growth and reduced bloom in the season following severe black spot damage.
Disease Life Cycle
Black spot spores overwinter on infected foliage and canes, including infected foliage that has fallen and been left on the ground. In spring, spores are splashed up onto newly emerging foliage during rains or irrigation. Once the weather begins to stay consistently warm and humid, the spores germinate and infect the plant within one day. Visible symptoms (black spot and some yellowing) will be evident within five days, and it will produce and spread new spores within ten days. The new spores will infect other parts of the plant, or be carried on the wind to any other nearby rose bushes.
Treatment and Prevention
There are several organic ways to control black spot. Most of them rely on regular monitoring and upkeep. None of them are difficult and can be accomplished while you're admiring your roses.
Plant roses in full sun. If you give your roses a spot where they receive a full six to eight hours of sun per day, you'll not only have plants that grow more robustly, but also plants that are more able to resist black spot. Black spot loves moisture, and, in shade, water evaporates much more slowly. In full sun, evaporation happens more quickly, which not only helps prevent black spot, but other fungal diseases as well.
Plant roses in an area with good air circulation. This accomplishes the same thing as planting in an area with direct sunlight: moisture evaporates more quickly. In addition, with plenty of air circulation, hopefully breezes will blow any newly-germinated black spot spores away from your roses. In an area with poor air circulation, the spores have nowhere to go but back onto your plant and the surrounding soil.: moisture evaporates more quickly. In addition, with plenty of air circulation, hopefully breezes will blow any newly-germinated black spot spores away from your roses. In an area with poor air circulation, the spores have nowhere to go but back onto your plant and the surrounding soil.
Water correctly. Try to avoid overhead irrigation, which wets the foliage. It's more efficient to water at ground level anyway; you lose less water to evaporation. Also, avoid watering late in the day. Water evaporates much slower in cooler evening and nighttime temperatures.
Remove leaves that show signs of infection. As soon as you see black spot on your rose foliage, remove any infected leaves. Throw these leaves away. Don't put them in your compost pile. If you check your roses regularly and remove infected foliage immediately, you'll have a good chance of keeping black spot under control and keep it from infecting other parts of the plant.
Keep a clean garden. Pick up and throw away any fallen rose foliage regularly. Especially in late winter, rake up the area around your roses, dispose of any debris, and give the entire area a good three-inch deep layer of mulch. If you do this before new foliage begins to emerge, it's fairly unlikely that you'll have any major issues with black spot.
Choose resistant cultivars. If you've had persistent problems with black spot, be sure to make sure that any new roses you add to your garden are resistant. Your local cooperative extension service will be able to provide you with suggestions.
The old remedy of treating black spot with a baking soda spray has been shown to be ineffective. The only way to control black spot organically is to practice the prevention and maintenance tasks above.
Black spot is basically what it sounds like: roundish black spots on leaf surfaces. The spots grow over time, and the foliage around the spot yellows. Eventually, the entire leaf falls off.
Damage to Plants
The issue with black spot is that the defoliation that occurs when the fungus is allowed to get out of control weakens the plant. And not just for the current growing season, but for the next season as well.
The main function of plant foliage is to absorb energy from the sun and perform photosynthesis. If your plant loses all or most of its leaves to black spot, it will be unable to collect and store energy for the winter, as well as for the burst of growth that occurs in spring. You'll see weaker growth and reduced bloom in the season following severe black spot damage.
Disease Life Cycle
Black spot spores overwinter on infected foliage and canes, including infected foliage that has fallen and been left on the ground. In spring, spores are splashed up onto newly emerging foliage during rains or irrigation. Once the weather begins to stay consistently warm and humid, the spores germinate and infect the plant within one day. Visible symptoms (black spot and some yellowing) will be evident within five days, and it will produce and spread new spores within ten days. The new spores will infect other parts of the plant, or be carried on the wind to any other nearby rose bushes.
Treatment and Prevention
There are several organic ways to control black spot. Most of them rely on regular monitoring and upkeep. None of them are difficult and can be accomplished while you're admiring your roses.
Plant roses in full sun. If you give your roses a spot where they receive a full six to eight hours of sun per day, you'll not only have plants that grow more robustly, but also plants that are more able to resist black spot. Black spot loves moisture, and, in shade, water evaporates much more slowly. In full sun, evaporation happens more quickly, which not only helps prevent black spot, but other fungal diseases as well.
Plant roses in an area with good air circulation. This accomplishes the same thing as planting in an area with direct sunlight: moisture evaporates more quickly. In addition, with plenty of air circulation, hopefully breezes will blow any newly-germinated black spot spores away from your roses. In an area with poor air circulation, the spores have nowhere to go but back onto your plant and the surrounding soil.: moisture evaporates more quickly. In addition, with plenty of air circulation, hopefully breezes will blow any newly-germinated black spot spores away from your roses. In an area with poor air circulation, the spores have nowhere to go but back onto your plant and the surrounding soil.
Water correctly. Try to avoid overhead irrigation, which wets the foliage. It's more efficient to water at ground level anyway; you lose less water to evaporation. Also, avoid watering late in the day. Water evaporates much slower in cooler evening and nighttime temperatures.
Remove leaves that show signs of infection. As soon as you see black spot on your rose foliage, remove any infected leaves. Throw these leaves away. Don't put them in your compost pile. If you check your roses regularly and remove infected foliage immediately, you'll have a good chance of keeping black spot under control and keep it from infecting other parts of the plant.
Keep a clean garden. Pick up and throw away any fallen rose foliage regularly. Especially in late winter, rake up the area around your roses, dispose of any debris, and give the entire area a good three-inch deep layer of mulch. If you do this before new foliage begins to emerge, it's fairly unlikely that you'll have any major issues with black spot.
Choose resistant cultivars. If you've had persistent problems with black spot, be sure to make sure that any new roses you add to your garden are resistant. Your local cooperative extension service will be able to provide you with suggestions.
The old remedy of treating black spot with a baking soda spray has been shown to be ineffective. The only way to control black spot organically is to practice the prevention and maintenance tasks above.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Insects are a fact of life in the garden and that's not a bad thing. Many plants depend on insects for pollination after all. There are many ways that insects can be beneficial partners for us, in the garden. There are also insects who do a lot of damage to flowers and vegetables. It's up to the gardener to try and strike a balance.
Integrated Pest Management
The first step in garden insect management is to be aware of who is there and what they're doing. Even some of the so called "pests" are only having a snack as they pass through your garden. You wouldn't want to bring out the spray can to get rid of a monarch butterfly caterpillar who is munching on your parsley. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is an approach toward insect control that walks the line between catching problems before they escalate and how much damage can you handle before you bring out the heavy artillery. If you can create a type of harmony in your garden, it's good for you, your plants, and the environment.
5 Ways to Keep Pests Out of Your Garden
Integrated Pest Management goes beyond monitoring for pest insects. There are steps you can take to make you garden less inviting to those pests and it doesn't take a lot of effort or money. Tweak the cultural conditions of your garden and cut down on future work and problems.
The Good Guys - Beneficial Insects
I mentioned that not all insects are out to wreak havoc on your garden. Some go beyond pollinating in their beneficial impact. There are insects who prey on some of those infuriating pests, like aphids and cabage worms. These are the insects we want to encourage to feel at home in our gardens and all it takes is knowing which plants they are attracted to and giving them cover in the garden.
A Gallery of Garden Insects and Disease
To keep the peace in the garden, you have to know what your dealing with and that starts with identifying what is causing the problem. It's not uncommon to mistake a disease for insect damage or the other way around and no amount of pesticide is going to cure a fungal disease. Here are photos of some common insect pests and the kind of damage they do, along with some possible controls.
Gallery of Insects and Diseases
4 Pests and a Good Guy You Should Get to Know
How Gardens Deal with Slugs
Earwigs - Friend or Foe?
Indoor Pests of Houseplants
I don't know how they do it, but some insect pests find their way into your home and onto your houseplants. (How do they know there are plants inside?) Indoor pests can be even harder to control than garden pests because there are no natural predators indoors - or at least not many. The pests profiled here tend to hide under leaves unnoticed until the problem is extensive. Check for them every time you water, to stay on top of the situation.
Organic Pest Control Choices
Even if your precious plants are being devoured by marauding pests, you don't have to spray toxic chemicals with abandon. There are less toxic options. Do yourself and your plants a favor by always starting with the least toxic solution first. If you can catch the problem early, that's all you should need.
Useful Pest ID Sites
Thank goodness for the internet. We now have access to thousands of pages of research and recommendations for just about everything. I always refer people to their local cooperative extension office, because they know what problems are affecting your area and what the best options are for controlling it. Most have Master Gardeners who will answer your questions via phone and they all have web sites with frequently asked questions. Here are a few of my favorite go to sites for answers to my garden problems - and yes, I do have some.
It Takes More than One Approach
Gardening is a juggling act. We create. We destroy. Too much one way or the other and that fragile balance is lost. Make pest management practices a regular part of your gardening chores and just may be able to stay in that delicate middle ground where everyone is happy.
Integrated Pest Management
The first step in garden insect management is to be aware of who is there and what they're doing. Even some of the so called "pests" are only having a snack as they pass through your garden. You wouldn't want to bring out the spray can to get rid of a monarch butterfly caterpillar who is munching on your parsley. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is an approach toward insect control that walks the line between catching problems before they escalate and how much damage can you handle before you bring out the heavy artillery. If you can create a type of harmony in your garden, it's good for you, your plants, and the environment.
5 Ways to Keep Pests Out of Your Garden
Integrated Pest Management goes beyond monitoring for pest insects. There are steps you can take to make you garden less inviting to those pests and it doesn't take a lot of effort or money. Tweak the cultural conditions of your garden and cut down on future work and problems.
The Good Guys - Beneficial Insects
I mentioned that not all insects are out to wreak havoc on your garden. Some go beyond pollinating in their beneficial impact. There are insects who prey on some of those infuriating pests, like aphids and cabage worms. These are the insects we want to encourage to feel at home in our gardens and all it takes is knowing which plants they are attracted to and giving them cover in the garden.
A Gallery of Garden Insects and Disease
To keep the peace in the garden, you have to know what your dealing with and that starts with identifying what is causing the problem. It's not uncommon to mistake a disease for insect damage or the other way around and no amount of pesticide is going to cure a fungal disease. Here are photos of some common insect pests and the kind of damage they do, along with some possible controls.
Gallery of Insects and Diseases
4 Pests and a Good Guy You Should Get to Know
How Gardens Deal with Slugs
Earwigs - Friend or Foe?
Indoor Pests of Houseplants
I don't know how they do it, but some insect pests find their way into your home and onto your houseplants. (How do they know there are plants inside?) Indoor pests can be even harder to control than garden pests because there are no natural predators indoors - or at least not many. The pests profiled here tend to hide under leaves unnoticed until the problem is extensive. Check for them every time you water, to stay on top of the situation.
Organic Pest Control Choices
Even if your precious plants are being devoured by marauding pests, you don't have to spray toxic chemicals with abandon. There are less toxic options. Do yourself and your plants a favor by always starting with the least toxic solution first. If you can catch the problem early, that's all you should need.
Useful Pest ID Sites
Thank goodness for the internet. We now have access to thousands of pages of research and recommendations for just about everything. I always refer people to their local cooperative extension office, because they know what problems are affecting your area and what the best options are for controlling it. Most have Master Gardeners who will answer your questions via phone and they all have web sites with frequently asked questions. Here are a few of my favorite go to sites for answers to my garden problems - and yes, I do have some.
It Takes More than One Approach
Gardening is a juggling act. We create. We destroy. Too much one way or the other and that fragile balance is lost. Make pest management practices a regular part of your gardening chores and just may be able to stay in that delicate middle ground where everyone is happy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
On cars and other metal objects, a little rust can turn into a lot quickly when affected spots combine into a bigger problem. Gardeners face a similar issue when rust fungus affects plants, and a few speckles run together to form large masses that distort and deform our flower's foliage. Learn how to identify rust, and beat it with treatments and rust-resistant plants.
Rust Fungus Identification
There are many species of the rust fungus disease, affecting host-specific plants and flowers, but gardeners can recognize this problem by observing the speckled masses that form on the surfaces of leaves.
Like the namesake, many of these pustules are rust-colored, but gardeners should also suspect rust if they see dry spots that are brown, orange, purple, red, or yellow.
Rust spots are usually tiny, scattered across plant leaves like so many freckles. Affected plants can have dozens of rust spots on each leaf, and it’s possible for a single leaf to have more than a hundred rust spots.
Flowers Affected by Rust Fungus
Rust disease is legendary in hollyhock flowers, but they aren’t the only potential victims of this fungus. Pay close attention to signs of rust fungus in these flowers during the summer months:
Aster
Carnation
Geranium
Iris
Lily
Pansy
Primrose
Snapdragon
Sunflower
Sweet pea
Damage Caused by Plant Rust Fungus
Flowers with a heavy rust infestation may experience curling or withering of leaves, and the plant can lose its leaves entirely. With this much damage to leaves, gardeners can expect to see stunted growth in their garden plants.
Organic Sprays for Rust Control
A weekly dusting of sulfur can prevent and treat garden rust disease. Neem oil, a botanical fungicide and pesticide, also controls rust. Some organic gardeners swear by baking soda for garden fungus control. The efficacy of baking soda spray may be enhanced by mixing it with light horticultural oil.
Cultural Control of Rust Fungus
Rust fungi, like many plant fungal diseases, flourish in wet conditions. The most important step you can take to reduce rust in your flower garden is to stop overhead watering. Instead, use a drip irrigation system to deliver water at ground level. If this isn’t possible, water your flower garden early in the morning, so the sun’s rays will quickly dry your flowers’ foliage.
Practicing good garden hygiene can decrease rust attacks. If you see signs of rust, remove and destroy the affected foliage to prevent the spores from spreading. Do not compost diseased foliage.
Conventional Control of Rust Fungus
You can choose from several commercial fungicides to control rust fungus. Apply the sprays when you see the first signs of disease, and continue applications according to package directions through July. Look for these fungicides and brand names:
Chlorothalonil- Daconil 2787
Mancozeb- Fore, Dithane, or Penncozeb
Myclobutanil- Systhane
Trifloxystrobin- Compass
Rust-Resistant Flowers to Grow
Hybridizers are continuously developing new flower varieties resistant to rust fungus. If you’ve experienced rust for multiple growing seasons, it might be time to remove susceptible plants and replace them with these proven varieties:
Aster- ‘Crimson Beauty,’ ‘Honeysong Pink,’ or ‘Purple Dome’
Hollyhock- ‘Happy Lights’
Rugosa rose
Snapdragon- ‘White Monarch,’ ‘Orange Glow,’ the Rocket series
Even when choosing rust resistant varieties, you’ll get best results by not overcrowding your plants. Proper spacing promotes air circulation, carrying disease spores away from the garden.
Rust Fungus Identification
There are many species of the rust fungus disease, affecting host-specific plants and flowers, but gardeners can recognize this problem by observing the speckled masses that form on the surfaces of leaves.
Like the namesake, many of these pustules are rust-colored, but gardeners should also suspect rust if they see dry spots that are brown, orange, purple, red, or yellow.
Rust spots are usually tiny, scattered across plant leaves like so many freckles. Affected plants can have dozens of rust spots on each leaf, and it’s possible for a single leaf to have more than a hundred rust spots.
Flowers Affected by Rust Fungus
Rust disease is legendary in hollyhock flowers, but they aren’t the only potential victims of this fungus. Pay close attention to signs of rust fungus in these flowers during the summer months:
Aster
Carnation
Geranium
Iris
Lily
Pansy
Primrose
Snapdragon
Sunflower
Sweet pea
Damage Caused by Plant Rust Fungus
Flowers with a heavy rust infestation may experience curling or withering of leaves, and the plant can lose its leaves entirely. With this much damage to leaves, gardeners can expect to see stunted growth in their garden plants.
Organic Sprays for Rust Control
A weekly dusting of sulfur can prevent and treat garden rust disease. Neem oil, a botanical fungicide and pesticide, also controls rust. Some organic gardeners swear by baking soda for garden fungus control. The efficacy of baking soda spray may be enhanced by mixing it with light horticultural oil.
Cultural Control of Rust Fungus
Rust fungi, like many plant fungal diseases, flourish in wet conditions. The most important step you can take to reduce rust in your flower garden is to stop overhead watering. Instead, use a drip irrigation system to deliver water at ground level. If this isn’t possible, water your flower garden early in the morning, so the sun’s rays will quickly dry your flowers’ foliage.
Practicing good garden hygiene can decrease rust attacks. If you see signs of rust, remove and destroy the affected foliage to prevent the spores from spreading. Do not compost diseased foliage.
Conventional Control of Rust Fungus
You can choose from several commercial fungicides to control rust fungus. Apply the sprays when you see the first signs of disease, and continue applications according to package directions through July. Look for these fungicides and brand names:
Chlorothalonil- Daconil 2787
Mancozeb- Fore, Dithane, or Penncozeb
Myclobutanil- Systhane
Trifloxystrobin- Compass
Rust-Resistant Flowers to Grow
Hybridizers are continuously developing new flower varieties resistant to rust fungus. If you’ve experienced rust for multiple growing seasons, it might be time to remove susceptible plants and replace them with these proven varieties:
Aster- ‘Crimson Beauty,’ ‘Honeysong Pink,’ or ‘Purple Dome’
Hollyhock- ‘Happy Lights’
Rugosa rose
Snapdragon- ‘White Monarch,’ ‘Orange Glow,’ the Rocket series
Even when choosing rust resistant varieties, you’ll get best results by not overcrowding your plants. Proper spacing promotes air circulation, carrying disease spores away from the garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
No one likes to find their flower gardening efforts thwarted by hungry insects intent on making a meal of our prize specimens. However, some insect pests do more than just snack on our plants; they can introduce fungi and other diseases than can sound the death knell for our favorite flowers.
Aphids
Gardeners everywhere curse the presence of tiny aphids on rose, honeysuckle, and other flowering foliage growth tips in the springtime. The sucking action of these insect pests causes stunted growth and deformed leaves and flowers. However, aphids bring more havoc to the flower garden in the form of plant viruses and black sooty mold fungus.
Start your aphid battle the natural way: Plant sweet alyssum in the flower garden to draw beneficial wasps, include cosmos to attract hungry lacewings, and add penstemon or yarrow to attract ladybugs. Insect soap and a strong blast of water will take care of heavy infestations.
Borers
Borers are an insidious pest, destroying your flowering plants from the inside out. The worst borer in the flower garden is the iris borer, which will tunnel through an entire iris rhizome, leaving bacterial rot in its wake. You should be suspicious if you notice sawdust material around the base of your irises or ragged leaf margins.
Discourage borers by removing iris leaves in the fall, which provide a host for borer moth eggs. In the spring, you can apply the systemic pesticide Merit or the nontoxic spray Garden Shield.
Leafhoppers
Only about an eighth of an inch long, leafhopper insects look innocuous enough. The green insects don’t congregate in large numbers on plants, and hop away when you approach. However, what you won’t notice is the toxin these hungry pests inject every time they insert their mouthparts into the underside of your flower’s foliage. This allows the damage to travel beyond the chewed part of the leaf, showing up as distorted leaf tips and edges. The insects also spread the aster yellows virus.
Blast leafhopper nymphs from plants with a strong jet of water. Spray adults with insect soap, pyrethrin, or Sevin. Keep dandelion and thistle weeds away from the flower garden, as they provide cover for leafhoppers.
Mealybugs
Mealybugs don’t draw much attention, as the pests are only 3/16 of an inch long and move very slowly. The honeydew they excrete supports sooty mold growth. When enough sooty mold accumulates on foliage, it can reduce photosynthesis, weakening the plant and making it even more susceptible to garden pests.
If you notice white fuzzy growths on your plants, you may have mealybugs. Dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and touch it to the pests to desiccate and kill them instantly. You can also spray the pests away with water, or apply Malathion or Orthene pesticide sprays.
Plant Bugs
Like leafhoppers, plant bugs inject a toxin into your plants’ leaves, buds, and shoots as they feed. The result is a plant mottled with brown or black spots and deformed growth. Dahlias, azaleas, daisies, liatris, and asters are just a few of the flowering plants these bugs feast upon. Gardeners should be on the lookout for tarnished plant bugs and four-lined plant bugs, growing up to ¼ inch long.
Plant bugs are fast moving pests, but you can pluck them off and drop them into a bucket of soapy water if you’re an early riser, as the bugs are sluggish in the morning. Otherwise, spray your plants with neem, Sevin, or diazinon.
Scale
At first glance, scale insects may not even seem alive. The waxy covering that serves as a protective shield on the bugs makes them resemble lichen or other natural growths on their host plants. The scale insect under this waxy covering is very alive indeed, feeding on garden plants throughout the entire growing season and houseplants throughout the year. Damage appears as stunted growth, leaf drop, yellow spots on leaves, and sooty mold growth that thrives on the scale’s honeydew.
Parasitic wasps love to use scale insects as hosts, and you may see evidence of this as tiny holes piercing the scale’s armor. This same armor makes scale resistant to many pesticides, but dormant oil can suffocate the insects during the winter season.
Whiteflies
Upon disturbance, whiteflies flutter about their host plants like an ephemeral cloud, but their damage is formidable. This is another honeydew-secreting pest, encouraging sooty mold while simultaneously leaving plants yellow and stunted after sucking on plant juices. Some whiteflies also carry plant viruses. Whiteflies are the bane of greenhouse growers, who detect their presence with yellow sticky traps.
Take advantage of the small size and weakness of these insects by using a vacuum to remove them from plants. You can also spray them with insect soap, pythrethrins, and malathion.
Aphids
Gardeners everywhere curse the presence of tiny aphids on rose, honeysuckle, and other flowering foliage growth tips in the springtime. The sucking action of these insect pests causes stunted growth and deformed leaves and flowers. However, aphids bring more havoc to the flower garden in the form of plant viruses and black sooty mold fungus.
Start your aphid battle the natural way: Plant sweet alyssum in the flower garden to draw beneficial wasps, include cosmos to attract hungry lacewings, and add penstemon or yarrow to attract ladybugs. Insect soap and a strong blast of water will take care of heavy infestations.
Borers
Borers are an insidious pest, destroying your flowering plants from the inside out. The worst borer in the flower garden is the iris borer, which will tunnel through an entire iris rhizome, leaving bacterial rot in its wake. You should be suspicious if you notice sawdust material around the base of your irises or ragged leaf margins.
Discourage borers by removing iris leaves in the fall, which provide a host for borer moth eggs. In the spring, you can apply the systemic pesticide Merit or the nontoxic spray Garden Shield.
Leafhoppers
Only about an eighth of an inch long, leafhopper insects look innocuous enough. The green insects don’t congregate in large numbers on plants, and hop away when you approach. However, what you won’t notice is the toxin these hungry pests inject every time they insert their mouthparts into the underside of your flower’s foliage. This allows the damage to travel beyond the chewed part of the leaf, showing up as distorted leaf tips and edges. The insects also spread the aster yellows virus.
Blast leafhopper nymphs from plants with a strong jet of water. Spray adults with insect soap, pyrethrin, or Sevin. Keep dandelion and thistle weeds away from the flower garden, as they provide cover for leafhoppers.
Mealybugs
Mealybugs don’t draw much attention, as the pests are only 3/16 of an inch long and move very slowly. The honeydew they excrete supports sooty mold growth. When enough sooty mold accumulates on foliage, it can reduce photosynthesis, weakening the plant and making it even more susceptible to garden pests.
If you notice white fuzzy growths on your plants, you may have mealybugs. Dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and touch it to the pests to desiccate and kill them instantly. You can also spray the pests away with water, or apply Malathion or Orthene pesticide sprays.
Plant Bugs
Like leafhoppers, plant bugs inject a toxin into your plants’ leaves, buds, and shoots as they feed. The result is a plant mottled with brown or black spots and deformed growth. Dahlias, azaleas, daisies, liatris, and asters are just a few of the flowering plants these bugs feast upon. Gardeners should be on the lookout for tarnished plant bugs and four-lined plant bugs, growing up to ¼ inch long.
Plant bugs are fast moving pests, but you can pluck them off and drop them into a bucket of soapy water if you’re an early riser, as the bugs are sluggish in the morning. Otherwise, spray your plants with neem, Sevin, or diazinon.
Scale
At first glance, scale insects may not even seem alive. The waxy covering that serves as a protective shield on the bugs makes them resemble lichen or other natural growths on their host plants. The scale insect under this waxy covering is very alive indeed, feeding on garden plants throughout the entire growing season and houseplants throughout the year. Damage appears as stunted growth, leaf drop, yellow spots on leaves, and sooty mold growth that thrives on the scale’s honeydew.
Parasitic wasps love to use scale insects as hosts, and you may see evidence of this as tiny holes piercing the scale’s armor. This same armor makes scale resistant to many pesticides, but dormant oil can suffocate the insects during the winter season.
Whiteflies
Upon disturbance, whiteflies flutter about their host plants like an ephemeral cloud, but their damage is formidable. This is another honeydew-secreting pest, encouraging sooty mold while simultaneously leaving plants yellow and stunted after sucking on plant juices. Some whiteflies also carry plant viruses. Whiteflies are the bane of greenhouse growers, who detect their presence with yellow sticky traps.
Take advantage of the small size and weakness of these insects by using a vacuum to remove them from plants. You can also spray them with insect soap, pythrethrins, and malathion.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Citrus mealybugs, first identified in the U.S. in 1879 can infest and destroy greenhouse and outdoor crops of plant hosts such as Tulips, Cannas, Begonias, Narcissus and Coleus.
Identification
Host plants may be dropping leaves, have distorted growth or areas of mold and waxy cottony secretions. Although they are tiny, less than 5 mm long (25.4 mm per inch), wingless female mealybugs with peripheral body filaments or winged males with tail filaments may be lurking and munching in plant crevices, looking as if they had been rolled in flour and ready to be tossed into a micro-sized frying pan.
Damage
The mealybugs suck out the host plants sap, injecting toxic saliva and secreting honeydew that grows mold and a cottony wax that can disfigure flowers and make them unsuitable for the market, dining room table or kitchen windowsill. Ants who feast on the tasty honeydew ferry the wingless females to neighboring plants.
Control
A first and final defense is to destroy the infested plants as mealybug infestations can be fatal to the host plant if left untreated. A second and less radical approach is to employ beneficial insects, such as Mealybug Destroyer beetles which feed voraciously on the pests and can be purchased from commercial suppliers.
Note: Like the pest insect, these beetles do not survive cold weather so they must either be released into greenhouses, outdoors in temperate climates or outdoors during warm seasons in colder climes. In addition, birds will prey on the beetles outdoors.
Also, spreading bone meal at the base of any plants or wrapping the trunk in cloth may discourage ants from visiting and spreading the tenacious pests.
Neighborhood Watch
Other botanical derivatives such as Rotenone and Pyrethrum have been effective in some applications and controls that work in one location may not work in another, so ask other local organic gardeners or the county extension service for suggestions.
Identification
Host plants may be dropping leaves, have distorted growth or areas of mold and waxy cottony secretions. Although they are tiny, less than 5 mm long (25.4 mm per inch), wingless female mealybugs with peripheral body filaments or winged males with tail filaments may be lurking and munching in plant crevices, looking as if they had been rolled in flour and ready to be tossed into a micro-sized frying pan.
Damage
The mealybugs suck out the host plants sap, injecting toxic saliva and secreting honeydew that grows mold and a cottony wax that can disfigure flowers and make them unsuitable for the market, dining room table or kitchen windowsill. Ants who feast on the tasty honeydew ferry the wingless females to neighboring plants.
Control
A first and final defense is to destroy the infested plants as mealybug infestations can be fatal to the host plant if left untreated. A second and less radical approach is to employ beneficial insects, such as Mealybug Destroyer beetles which feed voraciously on the pests and can be purchased from commercial suppliers.
Note: Like the pest insect, these beetles do not survive cold weather so they must either be released into greenhouses, outdoors in temperate climates or outdoors during warm seasons in colder climes. In addition, birds will prey on the beetles outdoors.
Also, spreading bone meal at the base of any plants or wrapping the trunk in cloth may discourage ants from visiting and spreading the tenacious pests.
Neighborhood Watch
Other botanical derivatives such as Rotenone and Pyrethrum have been effective in some applications and controls that work in one location may not work in another, so ask other local organic gardeners or the county extension service for suggestions.
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