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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The giant dogwood has such an appealing appearance that it’s also known as wedding cake tree. This is due to its tiered branch structure and elegantly variegated white and green leaves. Wedding cake tree care for young plants should be consistent until establishment but mature variegated giant dogwood trees are quite hardy and tolerant provided they are kept moist. Read on to learn more about this interesting flowering dogwood variety.
Giant Dogwood Information
The wedding cake dogwood has the grown up moniker Cornus controversa ‘Variegata.’ This lovely tree grows up to 50 feet tall but more commonly 25 to 30 in height. It is a native of Asia, which can be planted in United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 through 8. These trees are easy to grow and susceptible to only a few pests and diseases.
The wedding cake dogwood is a fast growing tree that does well in either partial shade or full sun. The limbs are horizontal, giving the appearance of layering, but as the plant matures they tend to droop a bit. In spring, it produces a brilliant display of creamy white flowers. An interesting nugget of giant dogwood information reveals these flowers to be leaves. The flowers are actually bracts, or modified leaves, that form around the very tiny and mundane real flower. The flowers develop into bluish-black berries that are favorites of birds, squirrels and other animals. In fall, the leaves turn a rich red and in spring the bright green tops of new leaves compliments the variegated silvery white tinged under leaves.
Growing a Giant Dogwood Tree
These trees are not found in many nurseries, but if you are lucky enough to find one, take care to situate it in a good location and provide basic wedding cake tree care as it establishes. The best place for variegated giant dogwood trees is in slightly acidic soil where there is dappled lighting. It will also perform well in full sun situations. You can plant it in either clay or loam but the soil should be slightly moist but not boggy. Take care to provide enough space above and on the sides for the adult height and spread of this majestic tree.
Care of the Wedding Cake Dogwood
After planting, it is a good idea to stake the young tree for straight strong growth. Provide water weekly for the first few months, and thereafter supplement moisture in very dry periods and in summer with a deep drench every couple of weeks. This tree is resistant to many pests but does occasionally has a problem with dogwood borers and scale. It is resistant to Verticillium but may become prey to canker diseases and root rot. Overall it is a very easy tree to care for and worth having for its many seasons of interest.
Giant Dogwood Information
The wedding cake dogwood has the grown up moniker Cornus controversa ‘Variegata.’ This lovely tree grows up to 50 feet tall but more commonly 25 to 30 in height. It is a native of Asia, which can be planted in United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 through 8. These trees are easy to grow and susceptible to only a few pests and diseases.
The wedding cake dogwood is a fast growing tree that does well in either partial shade or full sun. The limbs are horizontal, giving the appearance of layering, but as the plant matures they tend to droop a bit. In spring, it produces a brilliant display of creamy white flowers. An interesting nugget of giant dogwood information reveals these flowers to be leaves. The flowers are actually bracts, or modified leaves, that form around the very tiny and mundane real flower. The flowers develop into bluish-black berries that are favorites of birds, squirrels and other animals. In fall, the leaves turn a rich red and in spring the bright green tops of new leaves compliments the variegated silvery white tinged under leaves.
Growing a Giant Dogwood Tree
These trees are not found in many nurseries, but if you are lucky enough to find one, take care to situate it in a good location and provide basic wedding cake tree care as it establishes. The best place for variegated giant dogwood trees is in slightly acidic soil where there is dappled lighting. It will also perform well in full sun situations. You can plant it in either clay or loam but the soil should be slightly moist but not boggy. Take care to provide enough space above and on the sides for the adult height and spread of this majestic tree.
Care of the Wedding Cake Dogwood
After planting, it is a good idea to stake the young tree for straight strong growth. Provide water weekly for the first few months, and thereafter supplement moisture in very dry periods and in summer with a deep drench every couple of weeks. This tree is resistant to many pests but does occasionally has a problem with dogwood borers and scale. It is resistant to Verticillium but may become prey to canker diseases and root rot. Overall it is a very easy tree to care for and worth having for its many seasons of interest.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Dogwood is a popular ornamental tree with its flowering bracts, elegant foliage, and bright red fruits. These plants are relatively hardy but they do have their Achilles’ heels. We have all heard the fables about how even the smallest can bring down the mighty. This is true with a host of fungal and bacterial diseases of dogwood or tiny insects that may infect or infest your dogwood tree. The issues affecting dogwood trees are too numerous for this writing, but we can cover some of the most common dogwood problems.
Dogwoods need fertile, moist soil with good drainage. They are understory trees and require dappled lighting with protection from the hottest rays of the day. But even plants with good site conditions, annual fertilizer and adequate water may still encounter dogwood tree problems that destroy their health and vigor.
Diseases of Dogwood
Dogwood anthracnose is one of the most common fungal diseases to attack this plant. It starts out with blighted leaves, showing purple margins and tan color around the edges of leaves. Secondary signs may include cankers on twigs and smaller branches. These gradually extend to the trunk of the tree with necrotic weeping areas. Spot anthracnose, septoria leaf spot and powdery mildew are all conditions that affect the leaves. Root rots and canker disease abound and thrive in moist conditions. There are listed fungicides and bacterial agents to combat the various disease issues affecting dogwood trees. Check with your local County Extension office for help in treatment or contact a certified arborist.
Dogwood Tree Pests
Hardly any ornamental tree is without its fans. Dogwood trees have several insects and their larvae that call the tree their home. Significant loss of vigor and illness can result when these tiny marauders invade in quantity. The dogwood borer is the most noteworthy pest of the tree. Larvae live in the cambium layer and their travel and eating damage the flow of nutrients and water. Often branches can die. Numerous scale insects are dogwood tree pests. The dogwood sawfly larvae feed on the foliage and the dogwood club gall midge causes spindle-shaped swelling on twigs. In large colonies, the only treatment is pesticide sprays to prevent loss of health in your tree. Read all the directions carefully and use a targeted formulation.
Other Common Dogwood Problems
Dogwoods do not respond well to drought or flooding. They need fertile soil, so in poor soils they will eventually decline. The foliage may burn or turn reddish in summer when there is insufficient water. Use mulch 3 to 4 inches deep and 3 feet around the trunk to conserve moisture. Just be sure it doesn’t touch the trunk. Speaking of trunks, the tree is susceptible to mechanical injury, which will open the gate to insect invasions or fungal issues. Most dogwood tree problems can be avoided by giving adequate care and choosing healthy dogwood varieties that are suited for your area.
Dogwoods need fertile, moist soil with good drainage. They are understory trees and require dappled lighting with protection from the hottest rays of the day. But even plants with good site conditions, annual fertilizer and adequate water may still encounter dogwood tree problems that destroy their health and vigor.
Diseases of Dogwood
Dogwood anthracnose is one of the most common fungal diseases to attack this plant. It starts out with blighted leaves, showing purple margins and tan color around the edges of leaves. Secondary signs may include cankers on twigs and smaller branches. These gradually extend to the trunk of the tree with necrotic weeping areas. Spot anthracnose, septoria leaf spot and powdery mildew are all conditions that affect the leaves. Root rots and canker disease abound and thrive in moist conditions. There are listed fungicides and bacterial agents to combat the various disease issues affecting dogwood trees. Check with your local County Extension office for help in treatment or contact a certified arborist.
Dogwood Tree Pests
Hardly any ornamental tree is without its fans. Dogwood trees have several insects and their larvae that call the tree their home. Significant loss of vigor and illness can result when these tiny marauders invade in quantity. The dogwood borer is the most noteworthy pest of the tree. Larvae live in the cambium layer and their travel and eating damage the flow of nutrients and water. Often branches can die. Numerous scale insects are dogwood tree pests. The dogwood sawfly larvae feed on the foliage and the dogwood club gall midge causes spindle-shaped swelling on twigs. In large colonies, the only treatment is pesticide sprays to prevent loss of health in your tree. Read all the directions carefully and use a targeted formulation.
Other Common Dogwood Problems
Dogwoods do not respond well to drought or flooding. They need fertile soil, so in poor soils they will eventually decline. The foliage may burn or turn reddish in summer when there is insufficient water. Use mulch 3 to 4 inches deep and 3 feet around the trunk to conserve moisture. Just be sure it doesn’t touch the trunk. Speaking of trunks, the tree is susceptible to mechanical injury, which will open the gate to insect invasions or fungal issues. Most dogwood tree problems can be avoided by giving adequate care and choosing healthy dogwood varieties that are suited for your area.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Exotic plants like the coral tree lend unique interest to the warm region landscape. What is a coral tree? The coral tree is an amazing tropical plant that is a member of the legume family, Fabaceae. It may be spiny or smooth, deciduous or evergreen, with a spectacle of a flower in brilliant pink, red or orange hues. Growing coral trees is only appropriate outdoors in USDA zones 9 and up. Coral tree care is easy if you are in the correct region, but some growers may find them messy. Find out how to grow coral trees and add some of their intense beauty to your garden.
What is a Coral Tree?
Coral trees are members of the genus Erythrina and are primarily found in South Africa and South America. There are approximately 112 different species of Erythrina around the world. They are also found in Mexico, Central America, the West Indies, Asia, Australia and even Hawaii. The wide area covered by the plants seems to indicate coastal dispersal of seeds. Some interesting coral tree information regards their extremely buoyant seeds, which have the ability to float for up to one year and are so hard they pass unharmed through animal and bird digestive tracts. These tough seeds wind up tossed from surf on fertile tropical soils where they take off and eventually adapt and evolve to take advantage of their environment.
Coral Tree Information
The average height of a coral tree is 35 to 45 feet tall, but some varieties exceed 60 feet in height. The leaves have three distinct leaflets and the stems may have thorns or may be smooth, depending upon their evolutionary adaptations. The trees have a thick trunk, usually with several smaller trunks joining the main stem. Roots push out of the ground as they age and may become a hazard. The bark is a thin grayish brown and the wood is pithy and weak, prone to breaking in the wind or due to overwatering. The flowers are the standout, appearing in late winter. They are outlandish constructions of thick bright pedals standing erect around the corolla. Hummingbirds are extremely attracted to the loud colors and striking scent.
Coral Tree Care
Coral trees need very little water. Too much water actually promotes a weak limb structure and subsequent breakage. Overwatering causes the tree to grow too quickly, and its soft wood cannot support such spurts. Then in the dry season, the weight of the tree can actually pull it out of the soil. Pruning the tree in spring to remove the heavier stems or any damaged material will help prevent limb loss and trees from tipping.
Fertilizer is also not recommended when growing coral trees. Fertilizer also causes them to have aggressive growth that can cause problems later. Cover over the root zone with a good organic mulch, which will gradually leach a light dose of nutrients into soil over time.
What is a Coral Tree?
Coral trees are members of the genus Erythrina and are primarily found in South Africa and South America. There are approximately 112 different species of Erythrina around the world. They are also found in Mexico, Central America, the West Indies, Asia, Australia and even Hawaii. The wide area covered by the plants seems to indicate coastal dispersal of seeds. Some interesting coral tree information regards their extremely buoyant seeds, which have the ability to float for up to one year and are so hard they pass unharmed through animal and bird digestive tracts. These tough seeds wind up tossed from surf on fertile tropical soils where they take off and eventually adapt and evolve to take advantage of their environment.
Coral Tree Information
The average height of a coral tree is 35 to 45 feet tall, but some varieties exceed 60 feet in height. The leaves have three distinct leaflets and the stems may have thorns or may be smooth, depending upon their evolutionary adaptations. The trees have a thick trunk, usually with several smaller trunks joining the main stem. Roots push out of the ground as they age and may become a hazard. The bark is a thin grayish brown and the wood is pithy and weak, prone to breaking in the wind or due to overwatering. The flowers are the standout, appearing in late winter. They are outlandish constructions of thick bright pedals standing erect around the corolla. Hummingbirds are extremely attracted to the loud colors and striking scent.
Coral Tree Care
Coral trees need very little water. Too much water actually promotes a weak limb structure and subsequent breakage. Overwatering causes the tree to grow too quickly, and its soft wood cannot support such spurts. Then in the dry season, the weight of the tree can actually pull it out of the soil. Pruning the tree in spring to remove the heavier stems or any damaged material will help prevent limb loss and trees from tipping.
Fertilizer is also not recommended when growing coral trees. Fertilizer also causes them to have aggressive growth that can cause problems later. Cover over the root zone with a good organic mulch, which will gradually leach a light dose of nutrients into soil over time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
What is chinaberry bead tree? Commonly known by a variety of names such as chinaball tree, China tree or bead tree, chinaberry (Melia azederach) is a deciduous shade tree that grows in a variety of difficult situations. Like most non-native plants, it is highly resistant to pests and disease. This tree may be considered friend or foe, depending on location and growing conditions. Read on for more information about this tough, sometimes problematic, tree.
Chinaberry Bead Tree Information
Native to Asia, chinaberry was introduced to North America as an ornamental tree in the late 1700s. Since that time, it has naturalized across much of the South (in the U.S.). An attractive tree with brownish-red bark and a rounded canopy of lacy foliage, chinaberry reaches heights of 30 to 40 feet (9-12 m.) at maturity. Loose clusters of small purple blooms appear in spring. Hanging bunches of wrinkly, yellow-brown fruit ripens in autumn and provide feed for birds throughout the winter months.
Is Chinaberry Invasive?
Chinaberry grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. Although it is attractive in the landscape and is frequently welcome in urban settings, it can form thickets and become weedy in disturbed areas, including natural areas, forest margins, riparian areas and roadsides. Home gardeners should think twice before growing a bead tree. If the tree spreads via root sprouts or bird-dispersed seeds, it can threaten biodiversity by outcompeting native vegetation. Because it is non-native, there are no natural controls by diseases or pests. The cost of chinaberry control on public lands is astronomical. If growing a chinaberry tree still sounds like a good idea, check with your local university cooperative extension agent first, as Chinaberry may be banned in certain areas and is generally not available in nurseries.
Chinaberry Control
According to cooperative extension offices in Texas and Florida, the most effective chemical control is herbicides containing triclopyr, applied to bark or stumps within five minutes after cutting the tree. Applications are most effective in summer and fall. Multiple applications are usually required. Pulling seedlings isn’t usually effective and may be a waste of time unless you can pull or dig every little root fragment. Otherwise, the tree will regrow. Also, hand pick the berries to prevent disbursal by birds. Dispose of them carefully in plastic bags.
Additional Bead Tree Information
A note about toxicity: Chinaberry fruit is toxic to humans and pets when eaten in large quantities and may cause stomach irritation with nausea, vomiting and diarrhea, as well as irregular breathing, paralysis and respiratory distress. The leaves are also toxic.
Chinaberry Bead Tree Information
Native to Asia, chinaberry was introduced to North America as an ornamental tree in the late 1700s. Since that time, it has naturalized across much of the South (in the U.S.). An attractive tree with brownish-red bark and a rounded canopy of lacy foliage, chinaberry reaches heights of 30 to 40 feet (9-12 m.) at maturity. Loose clusters of small purple blooms appear in spring. Hanging bunches of wrinkly, yellow-brown fruit ripens in autumn and provide feed for birds throughout the winter months.
Is Chinaberry Invasive?
Chinaberry grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. Although it is attractive in the landscape and is frequently welcome in urban settings, it can form thickets and become weedy in disturbed areas, including natural areas, forest margins, riparian areas and roadsides. Home gardeners should think twice before growing a bead tree. If the tree spreads via root sprouts or bird-dispersed seeds, it can threaten biodiversity by outcompeting native vegetation. Because it is non-native, there are no natural controls by diseases or pests. The cost of chinaberry control on public lands is astronomical. If growing a chinaberry tree still sounds like a good idea, check with your local university cooperative extension agent first, as Chinaberry may be banned in certain areas and is generally not available in nurseries.
Chinaberry Control
According to cooperative extension offices in Texas and Florida, the most effective chemical control is herbicides containing triclopyr, applied to bark or stumps within five minutes after cutting the tree. Applications are most effective in summer and fall. Multiple applications are usually required. Pulling seedlings isn’t usually effective and may be a waste of time unless you can pull or dig every little root fragment. Otherwise, the tree will regrow. Also, hand pick the berries to prevent disbursal by birds. Dispose of them carefully in plastic bags.
Additional Bead Tree Information
A note about toxicity: Chinaberry fruit is toxic to humans and pets when eaten in large quantities and may cause stomach irritation with nausea, vomiting and diarrhea, as well as irregular breathing, paralysis and respiratory distress. The leaves are also toxic.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Brugmansia is an eye-catching flowering plant native to Central and South Americas. The plant is also known as angel trumpet due to its 10-inch long blooms. Brugmansia angel trumpet is a monster of a plant and can grow up to 12 feet tall. These plants are not winter hardy but can be grown as annuals in northern climates in the summer. Growing brugmansia in ground works well in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 12. Try a brugmansia in the garden for show-stopping color and dynamic proportions.
Brugmansia Angel Trumpet
Brugmansia are a popular collector’s plant. There are seven species of brugmansia but innumerable cultivars. The seven species are listed as extinct in the wild and today these plants are grown as ornamental specimens.
Brugmansia are heavy feeders and require quite a bit of water. Good brugmansia plant care will result in a small tree decorated with dangling trumpet-shaped flowers. Caring for brugmansia outdoors requires warm temperatures and a sunny location with protection from midday sun.
Brugmansia are divided into two groups that are genetically and regionally different. The warm group prefers warmer, sunny locations while the cool group flowers best in cooler temperatures. Both groups produce massive, woody stemmed plants with alternate toothed leaves, up to 12 inches long. The gigantic blooms are pendant and may be white, pink, yellow, orange, green or red with single, double or even triple petals. The flowers are very showy and often bear an attractive scent. Most brugmansia are pollinated by butterflies and they have a host relationship with many species. One brugmansia species is pollinated by a hummingbird.
Planting Brugmansia in Ground
Using brugmansia in the garden setting offers exotic impact with surprising ease of care. Amend the soil with plenty of organic material and loosen to a depth of a foot before installing the plant. Many gardeners prefer to grow the plants in containers so it is easy to move them indoors over winter. Gardeners in southern regions can simply plant them in a prepared garden plot. Some growers swear that brugmansia grow best in shade with only morning sun. They can also handle full sun but they may get wilted and stressed during the hottest point of the day. A better solution might be to choose a partial shade location. The most important consideration once you have chosen the location is good drainage and consistent moisture. Brugmansia angel trumpet is a huge feeder and needs plenty of moisture to sustain the massive amount of plant matter it produces.
Brugmansia Plant Care
Caring for brugmansia outdoors in summer is no trickier than any other plant so long as it gets 3 inches of water per week and a liquid feeding at least once per month. Brugmansia in warm climates will maintain a dormant state in winter but those in northern climates will either die if left outdoors or must be moved inside before cold weather threatens. Use a good commercial potting soil and a pot large enough to contain the root mass. Brugmansia respond well to pruning in spring. Most pruning consists of cutting back the branch tips to a growth node, but the plant can also withstand a hard pruning to within a few inches of the ground.
Brugmansia are prey to the standard sucking insects and some caterpillars and larvae. Use horticultural insecticide soaps to control any unwanted visitors.
Brugmansia Angel Trumpet
Brugmansia are a popular collector’s plant. There are seven species of brugmansia but innumerable cultivars. The seven species are listed as extinct in the wild and today these plants are grown as ornamental specimens.
Brugmansia are heavy feeders and require quite a bit of water. Good brugmansia plant care will result in a small tree decorated with dangling trumpet-shaped flowers. Caring for brugmansia outdoors requires warm temperatures and a sunny location with protection from midday sun.
Brugmansia are divided into two groups that are genetically and regionally different. The warm group prefers warmer, sunny locations while the cool group flowers best in cooler temperatures. Both groups produce massive, woody stemmed plants with alternate toothed leaves, up to 12 inches long. The gigantic blooms are pendant and may be white, pink, yellow, orange, green or red with single, double or even triple petals. The flowers are very showy and often bear an attractive scent. Most brugmansia are pollinated by butterflies and they have a host relationship with many species. One brugmansia species is pollinated by a hummingbird.
Planting Brugmansia in Ground
Using brugmansia in the garden setting offers exotic impact with surprising ease of care. Amend the soil with plenty of organic material and loosen to a depth of a foot before installing the plant. Many gardeners prefer to grow the plants in containers so it is easy to move them indoors over winter. Gardeners in southern regions can simply plant them in a prepared garden plot. Some growers swear that brugmansia grow best in shade with only morning sun. They can also handle full sun but they may get wilted and stressed during the hottest point of the day. A better solution might be to choose a partial shade location. The most important consideration once you have chosen the location is good drainage and consistent moisture. Brugmansia angel trumpet is a huge feeder and needs plenty of moisture to sustain the massive amount of plant matter it produces.
Brugmansia Plant Care
Caring for brugmansia outdoors in summer is no trickier than any other plant so long as it gets 3 inches of water per week and a liquid feeding at least once per month. Brugmansia in warm climates will maintain a dormant state in winter but those in northern climates will either die if left outdoors or must be moved inside before cold weather threatens. Use a good commercial potting soil and a pot large enough to contain the root mass. Brugmansia respond well to pruning in spring. Most pruning consists of cutting back the branch tips to a growth node, but the plant can also withstand a hard pruning to within a few inches of the ground.
Brugmansia are prey to the standard sucking insects and some caterpillars and larvae. Use horticultural insecticide soaps to control any unwanted visitors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Once the sun comes out and the temperatures warm up, even temperate and northern gardeners get bit by the tropical bug. Garden centers know you are craving plants that scream sunshine, warm beaches and exotic flora, so they stock tropical and semi-tropical plants that won’t have a chance of living through your winters. Brugmansia is one of these species. How cold can Brugmansias get and still survive? The United States Department of Agriculture sets Brugmansia cold hardiness in zones 8 to11.
Brugmansia Cold Tolerance
One of the most high drama plants is the Brugmansia. Also known as Angel Trumpets, Brugmansia is a shrub-like tropical perennial in warm zones but is grown as an annual in cold climates. This is because there are not hardy Angel Trumpets, and the plants cannot withstand cold temperatures. The plants can be overwintered indoors with reasonable success, so you can save them and have another chance at viewing the tremendously large hanging blooms in your landscape.
This plant is not considered a hardy plant, which means it cannot withstand freezing temperatures. While the zones the plant can live in are 8 to 11, Brugmansia cold tolerance in zone 8 is marginal with some shelter and deep mulching, as temperatures may get down to 10 or 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-12 to -9 C.). Zones 9 to 11 stay between 25 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit (-3 to 4 C.). If any freezing occurs in these zones, it is very brief and doesn’t usually kill the roots of the plants, so Brugmansia can be left outdoors in winter. Overwintering Brugmansia indoors in any of the lower zones is recommended or the plants will die.
Overwintering Brugmansia
Since there are no truly hardy Angel Trumpets, it is useful to know your zone and take appropriate action in cool regions to save the plant. If you are in an area where temperatures regularly freeze in winter, you need to start tricking the plant into dormancy in late summer to early fall. Stop fertilizing Brugmansia by July and reduce watering in September. Gradually, this will push the plant into a dormant state as temperatures get cooler. Remove 1/3 of the plant material to reduce the possibility of damage during moving and prevent excess moisture loss from transpiration.
Before any freezing temperatures are expected, move the plant to a cool, frost free area such as the basement or possibly an insulated garage. Just make sure the area doesn’t freeze and temperatures are between 35 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit (1 to 10 C.). During winter storage, water infrequently but keep the soil lightly moist. Once temperatures begin to warm up, bring the plant out of the area in which it has been hiding and gradually introduce it to brighter and brighter light. Container plants will benefit from repotting and new soil. Harden off the plants before putting them outside. Over the period of several days reintroduce the plants to outdoor conditions, such as wind, sun and ambient temperatures, then plant them in the ground or leave the containers outside when nighttime temperatures do not fall below 35 degrees Fahrenheit (1 C.).
Once you see new growth, begin fertilizing monthly with liquid fertilizer to boost green growth and help form the 6-inch flowers. Taking a little care to remember Brugmansia cold hardiness and get these plants indoors in time before any frosts can ensure that you enjoy them for years and years.
Brugmansia Cold Tolerance
One of the most high drama plants is the Brugmansia. Also known as Angel Trumpets, Brugmansia is a shrub-like tropical perennial in warm zones but is grown as an annual in cold climates. This is because there are not hardy Angel Trumpets, and the plants cannot withstand cold temperatures. The plants can be overwintered indoors with reasonable success, so you can save them and have another chance at viewing the tremendously large hanging blooms in your landscape.
This plant is not considered a hardy plant, which means it cannot withstand freezing temperatures. While the zones the plant can live in are 8 to 11, Brugmansia cold tolerance in zone 8 is marginal with some shelter and deep mulching, as temperatures may get down to 10 or 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-12 to -9 C.). Zones 9 to 11 stay between 25 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit (-3 to 4 C.). If any freezing occurs in these zones, it is very brief and doesn’t usually kill the roots of the plants, so Brugmansia can be left outdoors in winter. Overwintering Brugmansia indoors in any of the lower zones is recommended or the plants will die.
Overwintering Brugmansia
Since there are no truly hardy Angel Trumpets, it is useful to know your zone and take appropriate action in cool regions to save the plant. If you are in an area where temperatures regularly freeze in winter, you need to start tricking the plant into dormancy in late summer to early fall. Stop fertilizing Brugmansia by July and reduce watering in September. Gradually, this will push the plant into a dormant state as temperatures get cooler. Remove 1/3 of the plant material to reduce the possibility of damage during moving and prevent excess moisture loss from transpiration.
Before any freezing temperatures are expected, move the plant to a cool, frost free area such as the basement or possibly an insulated garage. Just make sure the area doesn’t freeze and temperatures are between 35 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit (1 to 10 C.). During winter storage, water infrequently but keep the soil lightly moist. Once temperatures begin to warm up, bring the plant out of the area in which it has been hiding and gradually introduce it to brighter and brighter light. Container plants will benefit from repotting and new soil. Harden off the plants before putting them outside. Over the period of several days reintroduce the plants to outdoor conditions, such as wind, sun and ambient temperatures, then plant them in the ground or leave the containers outside when nighttime temperatures do not fall below 35 degrees Fahrenheit (1 C.).
Once you see new growth, begin fertilizing monthly with liquid fertilizer to boost green growth and help form the 6-inch flowers. Taking a little care to remember Brugmansia cold hardiness and get these plants indoors in time before any frosts can ensure that you enjoy them for years and years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Not all of us are lucky enough to grow bottle palms in our landscape, but for those of us who can…what a treat! These plants bear their name due to the trunk’s strong resemblance to a bottle. The trunk is swollen and rounded when young, becoming more elongated as the palm matures. Bottle palm is a true palm that is native to the Mascarene Islands where warm, balmy temperatures and loose, sandy soil form the plant’s habitat. Planting a bottle palm in northern climates is not recommended, as they are not frost hardy. Southern gardeners, however, should know how to grow a bottle palm tree and make use of this unique and stunning tropical plant.
Bottle Palm Tree Info
Plants develop all sorts of amazing adaptations to help them survive. Bottle palm trees have evolved with thickened trunks topped with scaly crowns. The purpose is unclear but might have been a water storage device. Whatever the reason, the trunk makes for a standout silhouette in the garden or even as a potted plant. Caring for a bottle palm tree is a low maintenance chore due to its slow growth and drought tolerance once established.
The bottle palm is a true palm in the family Arecaceae. Its scientific name is Hyophorbe lagenicaulis. The last part of the name is from two Greek words, ‘lagen’ meaning flask and ‘caulis’ meaning stem. The name literally contains an important clue to the plant’s form.
More interesting bottle palm tree info is hidden in the first part of the name, Hyophorbe. Broken down, ‘hyo’ means pig and ‘phorbe’ means fodder – an indication that the tree’s fruit was fed to pigs. These palms only get 10 feet in height but sport fronds that may grow 12 feet in length with 2-foot long leaflets. The trunk is smooth and grayish white topped with scraggly leaf scars from old, departed fronds.
How to Grow a Bottle Palm Tree
Bottle palm trees require warm temperatures all year and tend to prefer drier soils. They are cultivated in Florida, southern California, Hawaii and other warm climates. Northern gardeners can grow the smaller trees in containers and bring them indoors before any frost threatens. The site conditions that are optimal to bottle tree palm care are sunny, well-drained soil with plentiful potassium, either in site or added annually as a feed. When planting a bottle palm, dig a hole twice as deep and wide as the root ball. Add sand or topsoil to increase drainage and install the palm at the same depth it was growing in its pot. Do not hill soil around the stem. Water well initially to help the plant develop deep roots. Over time, this tree can tolerate drought for short periods of time and it even withstands saline soils in coastal situations.
Bottle Palm Tree Care
One of the key areas of bottle tree palm care is provisions for protection from frost. Tie up the fronds gently and wrap the tree in a blanket or other insulating cover if cold temperatures are predicted. Even a light freeze can cause fronds to brown and die. Bottle trees are not self-cleaning, but wait until the weather warms up to trim off dead leaves. They can provide further insulation during the winter months. Fertilize in early spring with a high potassium ratio food. Watch for pests and disease, and combat any signs immediately.
Caring for a bottle palm tree is nearly effortless provided they are in good soil, bright light and get moderate moisture.
Bottle Palm Tree Info
Plants develop all sorts of amazing adaptations to help them survive. Bottle palm trees have evolved with thickened trunks topped with scaly crowns. The purpose is unclear but might have been a water storage device. Whatever the reason, the trunk makes for a standout silhouette in the garden or even as a potted plant. Caring for a bottle palm tree is a low maintenance chore due to its slow growth and drought tolerance once established.
The bottle palm is a true palm in the family Arecaceae. Its scientific name is Hyophorbe lagenicaulis. The last part of the name is from two Greek words, ‘lagen’ meaning flask and ‘caulis’ meaning stem. The name literally contains an important clue to the plant’s form.
More interesting bottle palm tree info is hidden in the first part of the name, Hyophorbe. Broken down, ‘hyo’ means pig and ‘phorbe’ means fodder – an indication that the tree’s fruit was fed to pigs. These palms only get 10 feet in height but sport fronds that may grow 12 feet in length with 2-foot long leaflets. The trunk is smooth and grayish white topped with scraggly leaf scars from old, departed fronds.
How to Grow a Bottle Palm Tree
Bottle palm trees require warm temperatures all year and tend to prefer drier soils. They are cultivated in Florida, southern California, Hawaii and other warm climates. Northern gardeners can grow the smaller trees in containers and bring them indoors before any frost threatens. The site conditions that are optimal to bottle tree palm care are sunny, well-drained soil with plentiful potassium, either in site or added annually as a feed. When planting a bottle palm, dig a hole twice as deep and wide as the root ball. Add sand or topsoil to increase drainage and install the palm at the same depth it was growing in its pot. Do not hill soil around the stem. Water well initially to help the plant develop deep roots. Over time, this tree can tolerate drought for short periods of time and it even withstands saline soils in coastal situations.
Bottle Palm Tree Care
One of the key areas of bottle tree palm care is provisions for protection from frost. Tie up the fronds gently and wrap the tree in a blanket or other insulating cover if cold temperatures are predicted. Even a light freeze can cause fronds to brown and die. Bottle trees are not self-cleaning, but wait until the weather warms up to trim off dead leaves. They can provide further insulation during the winter months. Fertilize in early spring with a high potassium ratio food. Watch for pests and disease, and combat any signs immediately.
Caring for a bottle palm tree is nearly effortless provided they are in good soil, bright light and get moderate moisture.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Ash trees make graceful landscape plants, but when your trees are stressed or plagued by pests, they may begin to shed bark in response to the damage they’re experiencing. As a good ash tree owner, it’s your job to determine if ash tree bark peeling is a sign of environmental problems or if the bark coming off ash trees is due to boring beetles. Read on for more information on these common ash tree problems and their management.
Shedding Bark on Ash Trees
When your ash tree is shedding bark, it may feel like time to panic, but try to keep your cool, often, this is simply indicating an easily correctable environmental problem. Ash trees typically grow on or near the banks of permanent water sources like streams and ponds. Because of this, they’re not very adaptable when the weather dries out and they can’t get the moisture they require.
Often, they’ll shed bark in protest, but quick action on your part can slow or stop your ash tree losing bark. Provide the tree in question with ample water, up to 210 gallons a week during the summer for a tree with a 15-foot wide canopy, being sure to water at the drip line instead of near the trunk. An irrigation system can help keep your thirsty ash tree supplied with water.
Other stressors like a sudden change in environment, such as trenching, removing the grass around the tree, herbicide use, over-fertilization or the failure of your irrigation system can also end in bark shedding. Water a stressed tree well, withholding fertilizer until the tree show signs of improvement.
Ash Tree Losing Bark from Emerald Ash Borers and Sunburn
Over-pruning is a common cause of an ash tree bark problem; the removal of branches that once shaded the trunk can lead to sunburn on these previously protected tissues. Sunburned bark may peel and fall off the tree in question and emerald ash borers can find their way to these easy to penetrate areas of tissue. Once sunburn has occurred, there’s no way to repair it but you can prevent it in the future by being careful to prune out less than a quarter of the living branches of an ash tree during any season. Check your damaged tree’s trunk for small holes before dressing the wounded areas with a trunk wrap or painting it with white latex paint mixed with equal parts water. If tiny d-shaped holes are peppered in the areas of peeling bark, you have a much more serious problem on your hands. This is the telltale sign of the emerald ash borer, a serious pest of ash trees. Trees that have been infested a while may have many dying branches and aggressive shoot growth around the base of the tree in addition to the bark peeling and holes in the trunk.
Generally, borers are a death sentence for a tree – these insect pests spend most of their lives inside affected trees, causing a slow decline as they chew through the transport tissues that keep the tree hydrated and nourished. Once these are severed, it’s only a matter of time before the tree dies. A large tree can present a serious hazard to objects and people on the ground below – have your tree evaluated by an arborist if you suspect borers. Removal is typically your only option.
Shedding Bark on Ash Trees
When your ash tree is shedding bark, it may feel like time to panic, but try to keep your cool, often, this is simply indicating an easily correctable environmental problem. Ash trees typically grow on or near the banks of permanent water sources like streams and ponds. Because of this, they’re not very adaptable when the weather dries out and they can’t get the moisture they require.
Often, they’ll shed bark in protest, but quick action on your part can slow or stop your ash tree losing bark. Provide the tree in question with ample water, up to 210 gallons a week during the summer for a tree with a 15-foot wide canopy, being sure to water at the drip line instead of near the trunk. An irrigation system can help keep your thirsty ash tree supplied with water.
Other stressors like a sudden change in environment, such as trenching, removing the grass around the tree, herbicide use, over-fertilization or the failure of your irrigation system can also end in bark shedding. Water a stressed tree well, withholding fertilizer until the tree show signs of improvement.
Ash Tree Losing Bark from Emerald Ash Borers and Sunburn
Over-pruning is a common cause of an ash tree bark problem; the removal of branches that once shaded the trunk can lead to sunburn on these previously protected tissues. Sunburned bark may peel and fall off the tree in question and emerald ash borers can find their way to these easy to penetrate areas of tissue. Once sunburn has occurred, there’s no way to repair it but you can prevent it in the future by being careful to prune out less than a quarter of the living branches of an ash tree during any season. Check your damaged tree’s trunk for small holes before dressing the wounded areas with a trunk wrap or painting it with white latex paint mixed with equal parts water. If tiny d-shaped holes are peppered in the areas of peeling bark, you have a much more serious problem on your hands. This is the telltale sign of the emerald ash borer, a serious pest of ash trees. Trees that have been infested a while may have many dying branches and aggressive shoot growth around the base of the tree in addition to the bark peeling and holes in the trunk.
Generally, borers are a death sentence for a tree – these insect pests spend most of their lives inside affected trees, causing a slow decline as they chew through the transport tissues that keep the tree hydrated and nourished. Once these are severed, it’s only a matter of time before the tree dies. A large tree can present a serious hazard to objects and people on the ground below – have your tree evaluated by an arborist if you suspect borers. Removal is typically your only option.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Ash yellows is a devastating disease of ash trees and related plants. It can infect lilacs as well. Find out how to recognize the disease and what you can do to prevent it in this article.
What is Ash Yellows?
Ash yellows is a newly discovered plant disease, first detected in the 1980’s. It probably existed long before that, but wasn’t detected because the symptoms are so similar to those of other plant diseases. In many cases, you won’t be able to get a firm diagnosis without laboratory tests. A tiny, mycoplasma-like organism that we call the ash yellows phytoplasma causes the infection. A disease that infects members of the ash (Fraxinus) family, ash yellows only exists in North America. The symptoms are similar to those of environmental stress and opportunistic fungi. Although we see it most often in white and green ash trees, several other species of ash can also become infected.
Symptoms of Ash Yellows
Ash yellows doesn’t discriminate about location. We find it in commercial woodlots, natural forests, home landscapes and urban plantings. Dieback may be rapid or very slow. Although it may be several years before the tree deteriorates to the point where it is unsightly or a danger to your landscaping and buildings, it’s best to remove it promptly to prevent the spread of disease. Replace it with trees that aren’t members of the ash family. It may be as long as three years after infection before the symptoms of ash yellows appear. An infected tree usually grows at about half the rate of a healthy tree. Leaves may be smaller, thinner, and pale in color. Infected trees often produce tufts of twigs or branches, called witches’ brooms.
There is no effective ash yellows disease treatment. The disease is spread from plant to plant by insects. The best course of action if you have a tree with ash yellows is to remove the tree to prevent the spread to other trees. Does this mean that you have to give up ash trees and lilacs in the landscape? If you know there is a problem with ash yellows in the area, don’t plant ash trees. You can plant lilacs as long as you choose common lilacs. Common lilacs and hybrids of common lilacs are known to resist ash tree yellows.
What is Ash Yellows?
Ash yellows is a newly discovered plant disease, first detected in the 1980’s. It probably existed long before that, but wasn’t detected because the symptoms are so similar to those of other plant diseases. In many cases, you won’t be able to get a firm diagnosis without laboratory tests. A tiny, mycoplasma-like organism that we call the ash yellows phytoplasma causes the infection. A disease that infects members of the ash (Fraxinus) family, ash yellows only exists in North America. The symptoms are similar to those of environmental stress and opportunistic fungi. Although we see it most often in white and green ash trees, several other species of ash can also become infected.
Symptoms of Ash Yellows
Ash yellows doesn’t discriminate about location. We find it in commercial woodlots, natural forests, home landscapes and urban plantings. Dieback may be rapid or very slow. Although it may be several years before the tree deteriorates to the point where it is unsightly or a danger to your landscaping and buildings, it’s best to remove it promptly to prevent the spread of disease. Replace it with trees that aren’t members of the ash family. It may be as long as three years after infection before the symptoms of ash yellows appear. An infected tree usually grows at about half the rate of a healthy tree. Leaves may be smaller, thinner, and pale in color. Infected trees often produce tufts of twigs or branches, called witches’ brooms.
There is no effective ash yellows disease treatment. The disease is spread from plant to plant by insects. The best course of action if you have a tree with ash yellows is to remove the tree to prevent the spread to other trees. Does this mean that you have to give up ash trees and lilacs in the landscape? If you know there is a problem with ash yellows in the area, don’t plant ash trees. You can plant lilacs as long as you choose common lilacs. Common lilacs and hybrids of common lilacs are known to resist ash tree yellows.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
If you’re looking for a ground cover that thrives in deep shade where grass and other plants refuse to grow, look no further than snow on the mountain plant (Ageopodium podograria). Also called bishop’s weed or goutweed, the shallow roots of this quick-growing, deciduous ground cover sit above those of most companion plants so that they don’t interfere with their growth. Solid green varieties provide a lush, uniform appearance, and variegated forms have white highlights that glisten in deep shade.
Growing Snow on the Mountain Ground Cover
Snow on the mountain plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Growing Aegopodium is easy in the right location. It tolerates almost any soil as long as it is well-drained, and needs full or partial shade. Shade is particularly important in areas with hot summers. In locations with mild summer temperatures, snow on the mountain ground cover won’t mind some morning sun.
One of the most difficult things about growing Aegopodium is preventing it from spreading into areas where it isn’t wanted. The plants spread by means of brittle underground rhizomes, and digging up unwanted plants often causes them to spread even more because broken bits of rhizomes quickly form new plants.
To compensate for this, install an edging that sinks a few inches under the soil around the bed to contain the plants. If it spreads beyond the desired area, an herbicide may be the only solution. Snow on the mountain plant only responds to herbicides when there is new growth on the plant, so use it in early spring or mow down the plants and allow new growth to emerge before spraying the plants. When growing variegated forms of snow on the mountain plant, you may occasionally see a solid green plant. Dig these plants out immediately, getting rid of as much of the rhizomes as you can. Solid forms are much more vigorous than the variegated ones and will soon overtake the area.
Care of Snow on the Mountain
Bishop’s weed requires very little care. The plants grow best if watered during dry spells. In late spring or early summer, the plants produce small, white flowers. Many growers think the flowers detract from the attractive foliage and pick them off as they appear, but removing the flowers isn’t necessary to keep the plants healthy. After the bloom period, run a lawn mower over the plants to rejuvenate them. They’ll be ankle high again in no time.
Growing Snow on the Mountain Ground Cover
Snow on the mountain plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Growing Aegopodium is easy in the right location. It tolerates almost any soil as long as it is well-drained, and needs full or partial shade. Shade is particularly important in areas with hot summers. In locations with mild summer temperatures, snow on the mountain ground cover won’t mind some morning sun.
One of the most difficult things about growing Aegopodium is preventing it from spreading into areas where it isn’t wanted. The plants spread by means of brittle underground rhizomes, and digging up unwanted plants often causes them to spread even more because broken bits of rhizomes quickly form new plants.
To compensate for this, install an edging that sinks a few inches under the soil around the bed to contain the plants. If it spreads beyond the desired area, an herbicide may be the only solution. Snow on the mountain plant only responds to herbicides when there is new growth on the plant, so use it in early spring or mow down the plants and allow new growth to emerge before spraying the plants. When growing variegated forms of snow on the mountain plant, you may occasionally see a solid green plant. Dig these plants out immediately, getting rid of as much of the rhizomes as you can. Solid forms are much more vigorous than the variegated ones and will soon overtake the area.
Care of Snow on the Mountain
Bishop’s weed requires very little care. The plants grow best if watered during dry spells. In late spring or early summer, the plants produce small, white flowers. Many growers think the flowers detract from the attractive foliage and pick them off as they appear, but removing the flowers isn’t necessary to keep the plants healthy. After the bloom period, run a lawn mower over the plants to rejuvenate them. They’ll be ankle high again in no time.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Pinkhead knotweed plants (Polygonum capitatum or Persicaria capitata) are considered excellent low-growing groundcover by some gardeners. They are also called invasive pests by others. If you read up on pink knotweed information, you’ll find that the plant is banned in England and considered invasive in California. This is because of its tendency to spread where it wasn’t invited. So can you grow pinkhead knotweed, or should you? Read on for more pink knotweed information.
Pink Knotweed Information
What is pink knotweed? It’s a tough plant that stays under 6 inches tall but spreads horizontally to up to 5 feet. It thrives in almost any soil, including dry and sandy soil, and grows in both sun and partial shade in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11.
The lance-shaped leaves of the pinkhead knotweed plants are between 2 and 11 inches long, edged with dark red, and marked with burgundy chevrons. The leaves grow on prostrate red stems that root at the nodes. In mild regions, the leaves are evergreen, staying on the plant all year long.
The pink pompom flowers, each about 2 inches long, bloom from spring through the first freeze. They cluster in globe-shaped flower spikes above the foliage. Another way to answer the question “What is pink knotwood?” is to call it a cousin of Japanese knotweed. It lacks the exotic beauty of Japanese knotwood, but still looks appealing growing in the backyard as groundcover.
Where Can You Grow Pink Knotweed?
Groundcover is only one of the many potential pink knotweed uses for those choosing to grow the plant. You can also use pink knotweed in potted arrangements, grow them in baskets, or use them as edging in a border. The plant looks especially lovely in raised beds or containers where it can spill over the edges (and control its spread). Pinkhead knotweed plants are easy to grow in your garden or backyard. If you live in a region with a long growing season, start the seeds outdoors in weed-free soil once the risk of frost is passed. In areas with short growing seasons, start them indoors.
Fill small pots with good seed-starting soil. Moisten the soil and press in the seeds. Keep the soil moist until you see the seeds sprout. If you start them inside, harden off the young plants for at least 10 days before you transplant them outdoors.
Pink Knotweed Information
What is pink knotweed? It’s a tough plant that stays under 6 inches tall but spreads horizontally to up to 5 feet. It thrives in almost any soil, including dry and sandy soil, and grows in both sun and partial shade in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11.
The lance-shaped leaves of the pinkhead knotweed plants are between 2 and 11 inches long, edged with dark red, and marked with burgundy chevrons. The leaves grow on prostrate red stems that root at the nodes. In mild regions, the leaves are evergreen, staying on the plant all year long.
The pink pompom flowers, each about 2 inches long, bloom from spring through the first freeze. They cluster in globe-shaped flower spikes above the foliage. Another way to answer the question “What is pink knotwood?” is to call it a cousin of Japanese knotweed. It lacks the exotic beauty of Japanese knotwood, but still looks appealing growing in the backyard as groundcover.
Where Can You Grow Pink Knotweed?
Groundcover is only one of the many potential pink knotweed uses for those choosing to grow the plant. You can also use pink knotweed in potted arrangements, grow them in baskets, or use them as edging in a border. The plant looks especially lovely in raised beds or containers where it can spill over the edges (and control its spread). Pinkhead knotweed plants are easy to grow in your garden or backyard. If you live in a region with a long growing season, start the seeds outdoors in weed-free soil once the risk of frost is passed. In areas with short growing seasons, start them indoors.
Fill small pots with good seed-starting soil. Moisten the soil and press in the seeds. Keep the soil moist until you see the seeds sprout. If you start them inside, harden off the young plants for at least 10 days before you transplant them outdoors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Pachysandra is a favorite ground cover plant in hard-to-plant areas such as under trees, or in shady areas with poor or acidic soil. Unlike other plants, pachysandra ground cover does not mind competing for its nutrients, and growing pachysandra plants is easy if you have an abundance of shade in your landscape. Learn more about how to plant pachysandra and its care so you can enjoy the small white, fragrant flowers (which appear in the spring) of this low maintenance plant.
How to Plant Pachysandra
There are several varieties of pachysandra available to choose from. The recommended pachysandra growing zone for U.S. Department of Agriculture is 4 through 7.
Pachysandra is easily transplanted from garden flats or divisions in the spring. Space the plants 6 to 12 inches apart to accommodate their spread. Pachysandra prefers soil that is moist and amended with rich organic matter. Make sure the planting area is clear from debris before planting and that the soil is loose. Holes for new plants should be 4 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Pachysandra ground cover has evergreen leaves that will burn in the sun. It is always best to plant on an overcast day and in shady locations. Water new plants thoroughly and provide 2 inches of mulch to help with water retention.
Pachysandra Plant Care
Pachysandra requires only minimal care to look its best. New plants can be pinched back for several years to encourage bushiness. Keep areas of pachysandra free from weeds and monitor young plants during dry weather. Once plants are established, they can handle some period of drought; however, young plants require adequate moisture in order to become established.
Now that you know a little more about pachysandra plant care, you can enjoy this low-growing beauty in the shady spots of your landscape.
How to Plant Pachysandra
There are several varieties of pachysandra available to choose from. The recommended pachysandra growing zone for U.S. Department of Agriculture is 4 through 7.
Pachysandra is easily transplanted from garden flats or divisions in the spring. Space the plants 6 to 12 inches apart to accommodate their spread. Pachysandra prefers soil that is moist and amended with rich organic matter. Make sure the planting area is clear from debris before planting and that the soil is loose. Holes for new plants should be 4 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Pachysandra ground cover has evergreen leaves that will burn in the sun. It is always best to plant on an overcast day and in shady locations. Water new plants thoroughly and provide 2 inches of mulch to help with water retention.
Pachysandra Plant Care
Pachysandra requires only minimal care to look its best. New plants can be pinched back for several years to encourage bushiness. Keep areas of pachysandra free from weeds and monitor young plants during dry weather. Once plants are established, they can handle some period of drought; however, young plants require adequate moisture in order to become established.
Now that you know a little more about pachysandra plant care, you can enjoy this low-growing beauty in the shady spots of your landscape.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Gotu kola is often known as Asiatic pennywort or spadeleaf – an appropriate nickname for plants with attractive leaves that look like they were stolen from a deck of cards. Looking for more gotu kola plant information? Want to learn how to grow gotu kola in your own garden? Keep on reading!
What is Gotu Kola?
Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) is a low-growing perennial plant native to the warm, tropical climates of Indonesia, China, Japan, South Africa and the South Pacific. It has been used for many centuries as a treatment for respiratory ailments and a variety of other condition, including fatigue, arthritis, memory, stomach problems, asthma and fever.
In the garden, gotu kola grows nearly anywhere as long as conditions are never dry, and works well near water or as a groundcover in dark, shady areas. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 9b or above, you should have no trouble growing gotu kola in your own garden. Keep in mind that gotu kola plants can be aggressive, especially in warm, moist climates. If this is a concern, you can grow gotu kola plants in containers.
How to Grow Gotu Kola by Seed
Plant gotu kola seeds in a container filled with moist, lightweight potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Water thoroughly after planting. Thereafter, water as needed to keep the soil evenly and consistently moist. Transplant the tiny plants into individual containers when they have at least one set of true leaves – the leaves that appear after the tiny seedling leaves. Allow gotu kola plants to mature for several months, then plant them in the garden when you’re sure all danger of frost has passed.
Planting Gotu Kola Starter Plants
If you’re fortunate enough to find gotu kola bedding plants, probably in a nursery specializing in herbs, just place the plants – in their nursery pots – in the garden for a few days. Once the plants have hardened off, plant them in their permanent location.
Gotu Kola Care
Ensure the soil never dries out. Otherwise, no gotu kola care is necessary; just stand back and watch them grow.
What is Gotu Kola?
Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) is a low-growing perennial plant native to the warm, tropical climates of Indonesia, China, Japan, South Africa and the South Pacific. It has been used for many centuries as a treatment for respiratory ailments and a variety of other condition, including fatigue, arthritis, memory, stomach problems, asthma and fever.
In the garden, gotu kola grows nearly anywhere as long as conditions are never dry, and works well near water or as a groundcover in dark, shady areas. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 9b or above, you should have no trouble growing gotu kola in your own garden. Keep in mind that gotu kola plants can be aggressive, especially in warm, moist climates. If this is a concern, you can grow gotu kola plants in containers.
How to Grow Gotu Kola by Seed
Plant gotu kola seeds in a container filled with moist, lightweight potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Water thoroughly after planting. Thereafter, water as needed to keep the soil evenly and consistently moist. Transplant the tiny plants into individual containers when they have at least one set of true leaves – the leaves that appear after the tiny seedling leaves. Allow gotu kola plants to mature for several months, then plant them in the garden when you’re sure all danger of frost has passed.
Planting Gotu Kola Starter Plants
If you’re fortunate enough to find gotu kola bedding plants, probably in a nursery specializing in herbs, just place the plants – in their nursery pots – in the garden for a few days. Once the plants have hardened off, plant them in their permanent location.
Gotu Kola Care
Ensure the soil never dries out. Otherwise, no gotu kola care is necessary; just stand back and watch them grow.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Using plants between pavers softens the look of your pathway or patio and keeps weeds from filling in bare spaces. Wondering what to plant? This article can help.
Planting Between Pavers
When using ground covers around pavers, you want them to meet several criteria. Look for plants that are tough so you don’t have to tiptoe around them. Choose short plants that won’t obstruct your path, and plants that are suited to the current light exposure. Using plants that spread to fill the space around them make growing plants between pavers easier. Here are a few suggestions. Irish moss – Irish moss adds soft, spongy texture to paths in shady areas. Only a couple of inches tall, it doesn’t create an obstruction. It’s usually sold in flats like sod. Just cut it to fit and lay it where you want it to grow. It is sometimes sold as Scottish moss.
Elfin thyme – Elfin thyme is a miniature version of creeping thyme. It grows only an inch or two tall, and you’ll enjoy its pleasant fragrance. You can plant it in the sun, where it grows flat, or in the shade where it forms little hills. It bounces back after short periods of dry weather, but you’ll need to water it if the dry weather lasts very long. Dwarf mondo grass – Dwarf mondo grass is a good choice for full or partial shade, and it is one of the few plants you can grow near black walnuts. The best dwarf mondo varieties for planting between pavers grow only an inch or two tall and spread readily. Baby’s tears – Baby’s tears is another selection for shady locations. They are often sold as houseplants, but they also make wonderful little plants to grow within pavers. It isn’t for everyone because it only grows in USDA zones 9 and warmer. The pretty foliage forms mounds about 5 inches tall.
Dichondra – Carolina ponysfoot is a pretty little North American native and species of Dichondra that grows in sun or partial shade. It stands up to heat but needs a little watering during prolonged dry spells. It also needs a little fertilizer every spring to keep its bright color. This low-growing ground cover grows in all 48 states in the continental U.S. It features bright green, round leaves that spread to fill an area.
Planting Between Pavers
When using ground covers around pavers, you want them to meet several criteria. Look for plants that are tough so you don’t have to tiptoe around them. Choose short plants that won’t obstruct your path, and plants that are suited to the current light exposure. Using plants that spread to fill the space around them make growing plants between pavers easier. Here are a few suggestions. Irish moss – Irish moss adds soft, spongy texture to paths in shady areas. Only a couple of inches tall, it doesn’t create an obstruction. It’s usually sold in flats like sod. Just cut it to fit and lay it where you want it to grow. It is sometimes sold as Scottish moss.
Elfin thyme – Elfin thyme is a miniature version of creeping thyme. It grows only an inch or two tall, and you’ll enjoy its pleasant fragrance. You can plant it in the sun, where it grows flat, or in the shade where it forms little hills. It bounces back after short periods of dry weather, but you’ll need to water it if the dry weather lasts very long. Dwarf mondo grass – Dwarf mondo grass is a good choice for full or partial shade, and it is one of the few plants you can grow near black walnuts. The best dwarf mondo varieties for planting between pavers grow only an inch or two tall and spread readily. Baby’s tears – Baby’s tears is another selection for shady locations. They are often sold as houseplants, but they also make wonderful little plants to grow within pavers. It isn’t for everyone because it only grows in USDA zones 9 and warmer. The pretty foliage forms mounds about 5 inches tall.
Dichondra – Carolina ponysfoot is a pretty little North American native and species of Dichondra that grows in sun or partial shade. It stands up to heat but needs a little watering during prolonged dry spells. It also needs a little fertilizer every spring to keep its bright color. This low-growing ground cover grows in all 48 states in the continental U.S. It features bright green, round leaves that spread to fill an area.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Fir clubmosses are tiny evergreens that look like little conifers. These ancient plants have an interesting past. Read on to find out more about fir clubmoss plants.
What is a Fir Clubmoss?
Fir clubmoss has a long history of medicinal and magical use. In medieval times, the plants were woven into wreaths and armbands. When worn, these adornments were thought to give the wearer the ability to understand the language of birds and beasts. The spores from the clubmosses were used to create bright, but brief, flashes of light in Victorian theater, allowing magicians and actors to disappear. Clubmosses are members of the Lycopodiaceae family, and they are among the most ancient plants still in existence today. Even older than ferns, they reproduce by means of spores found at the base of the leaves where they attach to the stems. Fir clubmoss (Huperzia appalachiana) is one of a group of closely related and nearly indistinguishable clubmosses.
How to Identify Fir Clubmoss
Fir clubmoss forms clumps of upright stems that look like tiny conifers. At the tip of the stem, you may find small plantlets with six leaves. These little plants look right at home in a rock garden. Many of the club mosses look similar, if not identical. You may have to rely on the differences in their preferred environment to differentiate between the species.
Where Does Fir Clubmoss Grow?
If you find them in cold, harsh, alpine environments, such as cliff sides and rocky outcrops, you probably have a fir clubmoss. When you find them in more protected environments, such as ditches and stream sides, they are more likely a similar species, such as H. selago. In North America, fir clubmoss is restricted to the higher elevations in the far Northeast.
Although it was once used to treat a variety of ailments, fir clubmoss is dangerous if taken internally. Chewing three of the needlelike leaves induces a hypnotic state, while eight can cause unconsciousness. The symptoms of fir clubmoss poisoning include nausea and vomiting, abdominal cramps, diarrhea, dizziness and slurred speech. Anyone suffering from fir clubmoss poisoning needs immediate medical treatment.
What is a Fir Clubmoss?
Fir clubmoss has a long history of medicinal and magical use. In medieval times, the plants were woven into wreaths and armbands. When worn, these adornments were thought to give the wearer the ability to understand the language of birds and beasts. The spores from the clubmosses were used to create bright, but brief, flashes of light in Victorian theater, allowing magicians and actors to disappear. Clubmosses are members of the Lycopodiaceae family, and they are among the most ancient plants still in existence today. Even older than ferns, they reproduce by means of spores found at the base of the leaves where they attach to the stems. Fir clubmoss (Huperzia appalachiana) is one of a group of closely related and nearly indistinguishable clubmosses.
How to Identify Fir Clubmoss
Fir clubmoss forms clumps of upright stems that look like tiny conifers. At the tip of the stem, you may find small plantlets with six leaves. These little plants look right at home in a rock garden. Many of the club mosses look similar, if not identical. You may have to rely on the differences in their preferred environment to differentiate between the species.
Where Does Fir Clubmoss Grow?
If you find them in cold, harsh, alpine environments, such as cliff sides and rocky outcrops, you probably have a fir clubmoss. When you find them in more protected environments, such as ditches and stream sides, they are more likely a similar species, such as H. selago. In North America, fir clubmoss is restricted to the higher elevations in the far Northeast.
Although it was once used to treat a variety of ailments, fir clubmoss is dangerous if taken internally. Chewing three of the needlelike leaves induces a hypnotic state, while eight can cause unconsciousness. The symptoms of fir clubmoss poisoning include nausea and vomiting, abdominal cramps, diarrhea, dizziness and slurred speech. Anyone suffering from fir clubmoss poisoning needs immediate medical treatment.
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