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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
If you have a chunk of garden that you would like a ground cover for, barren strawberry plants might just be the answer. What are these plants? Read on for tips on growing and caring for barren strawberries.
Barren Strawberry Facts
Barren strawberry plants (Waldsteinia ternata) are thus named due to their imitable resemblance to edible strawberry plants. An evergreen, barren strawberry is a ground cover with a spread of 48 inches or more but a low height of 6 inches.
The foliage of barren strawberry plants is akin to that of edible strawberries with a wedge shape that turns to bronze in autumn. The plants have small yellow flowers, which again resemble those of edible strawberries, and appear in the spring. Native to Europe and northern Asia, barren strawberry is sometimes referred to as “dry strawberry” or “yellow strawberry.”
Growing Barren Strawberry Ground Cover
Barren strawberry is an herbaceous perennial that dies down over the winter and greens back up in the spring. It is suitable for USDA zones 4-9. In the mildest zones, the plants will remain as evergreen ground cover year round. This easy-to-grow perennial is suited to a wide range of soils and will thrive in full sun or part shade. The plant may be considered to be invasive by some, as it will rapidly spread via runners, much like edible strawberries. While barren strawberry is drought tolerant, it does not thrive in the hot temps of the South, better bets would be W. parviflora and W. lobata, which are native to that region. Use barren strawberry amongst stepping stones or along wooded paths in light shade to sun.
Caring for Barren Strawberry
As mentioned, barren strawberry is tolerant of minimal irrigation, but to avoid stressing the plant, a consistent amount is recommended. Otherwise, caring for barren strawberry is fairly maintenance and pest free. Propagation of barren strawberry is achieved through seeding; however, once the plant has established, it rapidly sends out runners, quickly filling any available space. Allow the seed heads to dry on the plant and then remove and collect the seeds.
Dry and store them. Sow barren strawberry directly outdoors in the fall or spring, or sow indoors before the last frost for spring transplants. After barren strawberry blooms in the spring, the plant, again like edible strawberry, bears fruit. The question is, is fruit of barren strawberry edible? Herein lies the greatest noticeable difference: barren strawberries are inedible.
Barren Strawberry Facts
Barren strawberry plants (Waldsteinia ternata) are thus named due to their imitable resemblance to edible strawberry plants. An evergreen, barren strawberry is a ground cover with a spread of 48 inches or more but a low height of 6 inches.
The foliage of barren strawberry plants is akin to that of edible strawberries with a wedge shape that turns to bronze in autumn. The plants have small yellow flowers, which again resemble those of edible strawberries, and appear in the spring. Native to Europe and northern Asia, barren strawberry is sometimes referred to as “dry strawberry” or “yellow strawberry.”
Growing Barren Strawberry Ground Cover
Barren strawberry is an herbaceous perennial that dies down over the winter and greens back up in the spring. It is suitable for USDA zones 4-9. In the mildest zones, the plants will remain as evergreen ground cover year round. This easy-to-grow perennial is suited to a wide range of soils and will thrive in full sun or part shade. The plant may be considered to be invasive by some, as it will rapidly spread via runners, much like edible strawberries. While barren strawberry is drought tolerant, it does not thrive in the hot temps of the South, better bets would be W. parviflora and W. lobata, which are native to that region. Use barren strawberry amongst stepping stones or along wooded paths in light shade to sun.
Caring for Barren Strawberry
As mentioned, barren strawberry is tolerant of minimal irrigation, but to avoid stressing the plant, a consistent amount is recommended. Otherwise, caring for barren strawberry is fairly maintenance and pest free. Propagation of barren strawberry is achieved through seeding; however, once the plant has established, it rapidly sends out runners, quickly filling any available space. Allow the seed heads to dry on the plant and then remove and collect the seeds.
Dry and store them. Sow barren strawberry directly outdoors in the fall or spring, or sow indoors before the last frost for spring transplants. After barren strawberry blooms in the spring, the plant, again like edible strawberry, bears fruit. The question is, is fruit of barren strawberry edible? Herein lies the greatest noticeable difference: barren strawberries are inedible.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Wood fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) is found within the largest genus of fernswith more than 200 species at home in damp, wooded areas of the Northern Hemisphere. Read on to learn more about adding these fantastic fern plants to the garden.
Wood Fern Information
With their upright foliage and interesting color, wood fern plants are highly ornamental additions to the garden. Some varieties emerge reddish or coppery pink in spring, maturing to a bright, shiny green as the season progresses. Others are an attractive, bluish-green. Although many wood ferns are evergreen, some are deciduous, dying down in winter and springing back to life in spring. Wood ferns grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, although some may tolerate chilly winters as far north as zone 3.
Wood Fern Growing Conditions
Wood fern plants thrive in moist, rich, well-drained soil. Like most woodland garden plants, they prefer slightly acidic conditions. Planting wood ferns in soil enriched with leaf mold, compost or peat moss will help create good wood fern growing conditions. Wood fern plants require shade or semi-shade. Like most ferns, wood fern won’t perform well in intense sunlight, dry soil or extreme temperatures.
Wood Fern Care
Wood fern care is uninvolved and, once established, these relatively slow-growing plants need very little attention. Basically, just provide enough water to keep the soil from becoming totally dry. Many wood fern varieties tolerate wet conditions and will even grow along a stream or pond. Although fertilizer isn’t an absolute requirement, wood ferns appreciate a light dose of slow-release fertilizer shortly after new growth appears in spring.
Wood fern plants appreciate a layer of mulch or compost to keep the soil moist and cool during spring and summer. A fresh layer in winter protects the roots from potential damage caused by freezing and thawing in chilly climates. Insects and disease aren’t common problems for wood fern, and the plant tends to be relatively resistant to damage by rabbitsor deer.
Wood Fern Information
With their upright foliage and interesting color, wood fern plants are highly ornamental additions to the garden. Some varieties emerge reddish or coppery pink in spring, maturing to a bright, shiny green as the season progresses. Others are an attractive, bluish-green. Although many wood ferns are evergreen, some are deciduous, dying down in winter and springing back to life in spring. Wood ferns grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, although some may tolerate chilly winters as far north as zone 3.
Wood Fern Growing Conditions
Wood fern plants thrive in moist, rich, well-drained soil. Like most woodland garden plants, they prefer slightly acidic conditions. Planting wood ferns in soil enriched with leaf mold, compost or peat moss will help create good wood fern growing conditions. Wood fern plants require shade or semi-shade. Like most ferns, wood fern won’t perform well in intense sunlight, dry soil or extreme temperatures.
Wood Fern Care
Wood fern care is uninvolved and, once established, these relatively slow-growing plants need very little attention. Basically, just provide enough water to keep the soil from becoming totally dry. Many wood fern varieties tolerate wet conditions and will even grow along a stream or pond. Although fertilizer isn’t an absolute requirement, wood ferns appreciate a light dose of slow-release fertilizer shortly after new growth appears in spring.
Wood fern plants appreciate a layer of mulch or compost to keep the soil moist and cool during spring and summer. A fresh layer in winter protects the roots from potential damage caused by freezing and thawing in chilly climates. Insects and disease aren’t common problems for wood fern, and the plant tends to be relatively resistant to damage by rabbitsor deer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
While they are most commonly found growing in moist, wooded areas, sword ferns are quickly becoming popular in the home garden as well. These interesting plants are easy to grow with sword fern care being just as simple.
All About Sword Ferns
The sword fern (Polystichum munitum) plant is a lush evergreen ground cover known for its bright green, sword-shaped fronds. You’ll find the young fronds, or fiddleheads, appearing in early spring from their underground rhizomes with most plants eventually reaching 4 to 6 feet long. In addition to spreading through rhizomes, sword ferns will also reproduce via spores that are found along the backside of the fronds. These spores appear as brown spots, which are clustered together in groups.
How to Grow Sword Ferns
Learning how to grow sword ferns will be easier if you know how you want to use them in the landscape. Although most people prefer to grow them for ornamental purposes, they have other uses too. For instance, sword ferns make excellent ground cover plants. When planted on hillsides, they can be useful in preventing erosion. They work well with other perennial plantings as well, especially when used as understory plants. Sword ferns perform best in moist shady conditions. However, as long as there is good drainage, the sword fern can easily adapt to a number of soil conditions. They can even thrive in sun when given plenty of moisture.
Sword ferns transplant easily in the garden. And while some people may be lucky enough to have these plants growing naturally on their property already, there are various cultivars available through nurseries. Planting takes place in spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. The hole should be about twice as large as the root ball and it often helps to mix in some compost and other organic matter as well.
Sword Fern Care
Once established in the garden, caring for sword ferns is easy. They are drought resistant and usually don’t require much in the way of water, except during the first year after planting when they should be kept evenly moist. Sword fern plants will keep their foliage throughout winter and can be trimmed back in spring, if desired, though it’s usually better to only cut off dead foliage. Plants can also be divided in spring and transplanted to other areas of the garden.
In addition to their graceful appearance, ease of planting and caring for sword ferns makes them great choices for the landscape. So for those looking to add interest and texture to the garden or fill in open areas, the sword fern plant may be just what the plant doctor ordered.
All About Sword Ferns
The sword fern (Polystichum munitum) plant is a lush evergreen ground cover known for its bright green, sword-shaped fronds. You’ll find the young fronds, or fiddleheads, appearing in early spring from their underground rhizomes with most plants eventually reaching 4 to 6 feet long. In addition to spreading through rhizomes, sword ferns will also reproduce via spores that are found along the backside of the fronds. These spores appear as brown spots, which are clustered together in groups.
How to Grow Sword Ferns
Learning how to grow sword ferns will be easier if you know how you want to use them in the landscape. Although most people prefer to grow them for ornamental purposes, they have other uses too. For instance, sword ferns make excellent ground cover plants. When planted on hillsides, they can be useful in preventing erosion. They work well with other perennial plantings as well, especially when used as understory plants. Sword ferns perform best in moist shady conditions. However, as long as there is good drainage, the sword fern can easily adapt to a number of soil conditions. They can even thrive in sun when given plenty of moisture.
Sword ferns transplant easily in the garden. And while some people may be lucky enough to have these plants growing naturally on their property already, there are various cultivars available through nurseries. Planting takes place in spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. The hole should be about twice as large as the root ball and it often helps to mix in some compost and other organic matter as well.
Sword Fern Care
Once established in the garden, caring for sword ferns is easy. They are drought resistant and usually don’t require much in the way of water, except during the first year after planting when they should be kept evenly moist. Sword fern plants will keep their foliage throughout winter and can be trimmed back in spring, if desired, though it’s usually better to only cut off dead foliage. Plants can also be divided in spring and transplanted to other areas of the garden.
In addition to their graceful appearance, ease of planting and caring for sword ferns makes them great choices for the landscape. So for those looking to add interest and texture to the garden or fill in open areas, the sword fern plant may be just what the plant doctor ordered.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
There are over 100 species of sedge plants. What is sedge? These grass-like plants are drought tolerant, easy to grow and practically maintenance free. There are many types of sedge to choose from, but native sedge plants offer the opportunity to replenish and renew natural landscapes while giving the gardener a hardy plant made for the region. Whichever species you opt for, growing sedge plants in the garden brings texture and movement to any area of the landscape.
What is Sedge?
At first glance, one might assume sedges are grasses. They are not and are held in the genus Carex. Sedges span both native varieties and hybridized versions. They are useful in moist areas, such as around ponds, but there are also types of sedge that thrive in dry regions. Both ornamental and native sedge plants produce tiny seeds which feed some bird species, and many animals use the foliage to line and create nests. Sedge plants have the characteristic strappy leaves similar to many grasses, and just like grass, they reproduce from seed and rhizomes. Sedge crowds out other invasive species and comes in many hues and heights. It is an evergreen plant that does much of its growing in the cooler seasons and may go dormant in hot temperatures.
Growing Sedge Plants
Most nurseries have some varieties of sedge on hand. If you are looking for a particular species, you may need to order seed or starts. Seeded plants will take a couple of seasons to get to useable size but they grow as easily as grass seed. It is best to source native varieties through a grower, as some of these plants are endangered and harvesting from the wild is prohibited. The majority of sedge types grow in either sun or shade. Cool zones should plant in sun while warmer locations will find better production if the plants are situated in slightly shady parts of the garden. Additionally, some varieties are xeric or require dry locations, while others are hydric and need to be constantly moist. Sedges that are mesic have the broadest tolerance of both dry and moist conditions.
Growing sedge plants in mesic soil sets the odds for you on big beautiful plants in almost any region. Some types to try are:
Texas
Meadow
Lawn
Creek
Stream
Cherokee
Emory
Franks
Malibu
Fraser’s
Pennsylvania
Bunny Blue
Sedge Plant Care
Sedge plant care is minimal. They rarely need fertilizer, the plants can be easily moved and they grow rapidly and can even be used as a turf. Sedge plants take to occasional mowing in lawn situations and have the advantage of requiring little further attention, unlike traditional turf grass, which needs plenty of added nitrogen and may get weedy. When fertilizing, feed the plant in early summer with a light nitrogen plant food. Irrigate plants in the sun at least 3 times during the month. For those plants in shadier areas, irrigate just once per month unless your region is in acute drought, in which case water 2 times per month. Suspend watering in fall and winter.
If you wish, cut back sedges after they have bloomed to preserve a more tidy appearance. You can mow the plants but use a sharp blade and mow no lower than 2/3 the plant’s height. If the plant starts to die out in the center, divide the sedge between spring and early summer to make even more plants. If you don’t want the plant to seed, cut off the seed heads in early spring.
What is Sedge?
At first glance, one might assume sedges are grasses. They are not and are held in the genus Carex. Sedges span both native varieties and hybridized versions. They are useful in moist areas, such as around ponds, but there are also types of sedge that thrive in dry regions. Both ornamental and native sedge plants produce tiny seeds which feed some bird species, and many animals use the foliage to line and create nests. Sedge plants have the characteristic strappy leaves similar to many grasses, and just like grass, they reproduce from seed and rhizomes. Sedge crowds out other invasive species and comes in many hues and heights. It is an evergreen plant that does much of its growing in the cooler seasons and may go dormant in hot temperatures.
Growing Sedge Plants
Most nurseries have some varieties of sedge on hand. If you are looking for a particular species, you may need to order seed or starts. Seeded plants will take a couple of seasons to get to useable size but they grow as easily as grass seed. It is best to source native varieties through a grower, as some of these plants are endangered and harvesting from the wild is prohibited. The majority of sedge types grow in either sun or shade. Cool zones should plant in sun while warmer locations will find better production if the plants are situated in slightly shady parts of the garden. Additionally, some varieties are xeric or require dry locations, while others are hydric and need to be constantly moist. Sedges that are mesic have the broadest tolerance of both dry and moist conditions.
Growing sedge plants in mesic soil sets the odds for you on big beautiful plants in almost any region. Some types to try are:
Texas
Meadow
Lawn
Creek
Stream
Cherokee
Emory
Franks
Malibu
Fraser’s
Pennsylvania
Bunny Blue
Sedge Plant Care
Sedge plant care is minimal. They rarely need fertilizer, the plants can be easily moved and they grow rapidly and can even be used as a turf. Sedge plants take to occasional mowing in lawn situations and have the advantage of requiring little further attention, unlike traditional turf grass, which needs plenty of added nitrogen and may get weedy. When fertilizing, feed the plant in early summer with a light nitrogen plant food. Irrigate plants in the sun at least 3 times during the month. For those plants in shadier areas, irrigate just once per month unless your region is in acute drought, in which case water 2 times per month. Suspend watering in fall and winter.
If you wish, cut back sedges after they have bloomed to preserve a more tidy appearance. You can mow the plants but use a sharp blade and mow no lower than 2/3 the plant’s height. If the plant starts to die out in the center, divide the sedge between spring and early summer to make even more plants. If you don’t want the plant to seed, cut off the seed heads in early spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Royal ferns in the garden add interesting texture and color to shaded areas. Osmunda regalis, the royal fern, is large with twice cut leaves and adds an air of elegance when tucked into shady beds with companion plants of contrasting foliage. Royal fern care is simple when growing a royal fern plant in the right location. Also known as old world royal ferns, leaves are large and sometimes produce bead-like sori (spores) at the tips.
Growing a Royal Fern Plant
Royal ferns in the garden like consistently moist soil that is acidic and rich with organic matter; however, they are adaptable to lesser conditions as long as regular water is provided.
Royal ferns in the garden resist damage from browsing rabbits and deer, making them a good specimen for shady, out of the way areas. When growing a royal fern plant, allow room for the plant to reach its optimum height and spread of 2 to 3 feet. Also, when growing a royal fern plant, be advised that happily located specimens may even reach 6 feet.
When learning how to plant royal ferns, observe the location first to make sure the soil stays moist and shade is available for most of the day. If the area gets sunshine, it should be from morning sun or limited late evening sun. A soil test may be needed to determine the acidity before planting royal ferns in the garden. The addition of compost, shredded oak leaves or pine needles will improve soil drainage and add some acidity to the soil. Prepare the soil, if needed, several weeks or months before planting royal ferns in the garden.
Royal Fern Care
Care of royal ferns, once planted in the right place, is minimal. When happy in its location, growing a royal fern plant is simple. Keep the soil moist and prune browning fronds in fall. Now that you’ve learned how to plant royal ferns and the ease of care of royal ferns, think of adding them to a shady area in your landscape, such as a water or bog garden or near a pond or stream. Plant them with other shade perennials for an even more attractive display.
Growing a Royal Fern Plant
Royal ferns in the garden like consistently moist soil that is acidic and rich with organic matter; however, they are adaptable to lesser conditions as long as regular water is provided.
Royal ferns in the garden resist damage from browsing rabbits and deer, making them a good specimen for shady, out of the way areas. When growing a royal fern plant, allow room for the plant to reach its optimum height and spread of 2 to 3 feet. Also, when growing a royal fern plant, be advised that happily located specimens may even reach 6 feet.
When learning how to plant royal ferns, observe the location first to make sure the soil stays moist and shade is available for most of the day. If the area gets sunshine, it should be from morning sun or limited late evening sun. A soil test may be needed to determine the acidity before planting royal ferns in the garden. The addition of compost, shredded oak leaves or pine needles will improve soil drainage and add some acidity to the soil. Prepare the soil, if needed, several weeks or months before planting royal ferns in the garden.
Royal Fern Care
Care of royal ferns, once planted in the right place, is minimal. When happy in its location, growing a royal fern plant is simple. Keep the soil moist and prune browning fronds in fall. Now that you’ve learned how to plant royal ferns and the ease of care of royal ferns, think of adding them to a shady area in your landscape, such as a water or bog garden or near a pond or stream. Plant them with other shade perennials for an even more attractive display.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Few plants make as bold a statement in the landscape as pampas grass. These showy plants require little care except for the annual pruning, which isn’t a job for the faint of heart. Find out about pruning pampas grass in this article.
How to Prune Pampas Grass
Pampas grass needs annual pruning to get rid of the old foliage and make room for new growth. The foliage is tough and razor sharp. You’ll need to wear leather gloves, long pants and a long sleeve shirt to avoid getting cut.
Pampas grass pruning is much easier when you have proper tools for the job. Hedge pruners and electric shear aren’t up to the task. The best tool for the job is a chainsaw. If you’re like me, a smallish person who is intimidated by a chainsaw, you can use long-handled loppers. The long handles on loppers provide more leverage than short handled tools and make the job of cutting pampas grass plants easier, but even so, you can expect sore muscles and a few blisters the next day.
Before you begin, you might want to use a long stick to poke around the base of the plant and make sure there isn’t anything unexpected inside. Small mammals often use the cover of pampas grass foliage as a winter nesting site. Once you’re sure the grass is free of critters, you’re ready to begin. Cut through the leaves near the base of the plant to leave a tuft of foliage 6 to 8 inches tall. You may have seen people burning off the remaining stubs, but you’ll get healthier and stronger regrowth if you leave it alone. After pruning, broadcast a handful or two of 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 fertilizer around the plant.
When to Cut Back Pampas Grass
The best time to cut back pampas grass is in late winter just before the plant begins sending up new foliage. Waiting until the end of winter allows you to enjoy the plumes all year. Every once in a while, clumps of pampas grass form smaller clumps off to the side. Remove these clumps when you do your annual pruning to prevent overcrowding and to preserve the shape of the clump. Thin the clump every three years or so. This is a big job. Separating the roots requires the use of a heavy duty saw or an axe. Dig up and remove about one-third of the foliage.
How to Prune Pampas Grass
Pampas grass needs annual pruning to get rid of the old foliage and make room for new growth. The foliage is tough and razor sharp. You’ll need to wear leather gloves, long pants and a long sleeve shirt to avoid getting cut.
Pampas grass pruning is much easier when you have proper tools for the job. Hedge pruners and electric shear aren’t up to the task. The best tool for the job is a chainsaw. If you’re like me, a smallish person who is intimidated by a chainsaw, you can use long-handled loppers. The long handles on loppers provide more leverage than short handled tools and make the job of cutting pampas grass plants easier, but even so, you can expect sore muscles and a few blisters the next day.
Before you begin, you might want to use a long stick to poke around the base of the plant and make sure there isn’t anything unexpected inside. Small mammals often use the cover of pampas grass foliage as a winter nesting site. Once you’re sure the grass is free of critters, you’re ready to begin. Cut through the leaves near the base of the plant to leave a tuft of foliage 6 to 8 inches tall. You may have seen people burning off the remaining stubs, but you’ll get healthier and stronger regrowth if you leave it alone. After pruning, broadcast a handful or two of 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 fertilizer around the plant.
When to Cut Back Pampas Grass
The best time to cut back pampas grass is in late winter just before the plant begins sending up new foliage. Waiting until the end of winter allows you to enjoy the plumes all year. Every once in a while, clumps of pampas grass form smaller clumps off to the side. Remove these clumps when you do your annual pruning to prevent overcrowding and to preserve the shape of the clump. Thin the clump every three years or so. This is a big job. Separating the roots requires the use of a heavy duty saw or an axe. Dig up and remove about one-third of the foliage.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Oak fern plants are perfect for spots in the garden that are hard to fill in. Extremely cold hardy and shade tolerant, these ferns have a surprisingly bright and airy look that can work wonders with dark spots in short summers. Keep reading to learn more oak fern information, including oak fern cultivation and tips for caring for oak ferns.
What are Oak Ferns?
Oak fern plants (Gymnocarpium dryopteris) are very low growing, usually topping out at between 6 and 12 inches in height. Instead of growing up, these fern plants grow out, creeping along the ground through rhizomes.
In spite of their common name, oak ferns do not grow on or near oak trees, nor do they resemble them in any way, so how it derived this name is a mystery. The triangular fronds are pale to bright green in color, which makes for an excellent contrast in deep shade where the shadows can make everything look dark and gloomy. Oak ferns are hardy in USDA zones 2 through 8, which means they are extremely cold tolerant. They are deciduous, so they won’t keep their greenery through the winter, but they should come back every spring even after very harsh weather.
Oak Fern Cultivation in Gardens
Caring for oak ferns is extremely easy. The plants prefer deep shade, but they will do well in partial shade. They like neutral to slightly acidic soil that is sandy or loamy. They need good drainage but lots of moisture and prefer rich, leafy or compost heavy soil. Oak fern plants can be propagated by spores or division. Collect the spores from the undersides of the fronds in late summer or fall and plant them in the spring, or simply divide the rhizomes in the spring. Because of its ease and success at transplanting, oak fern is a desirable plant to have in the garden. While moving established ferns to a new location is simple, they will also spread out naturally through spores and rhizomes if you leave them alone.
As long as you provide the plants with their basic lighting and soil needs, little else is necessary to keep them growing in the garden. Oak ferns also make great companions to other fernsand woodland plants like trillium, jack in the pulpit, Jacob’s ladder and Virginia bluebells.
What are Oak Ferns?
Oak fern plants (Gymnocarpium dryopteris) are very low growing, usually topping out at between 6 and 12 inches in height. Instead of growing up, these fern plants grow out, creeping along the ground through rhizomes.
In spite of their common name, oak ferns do not grow on or near oak trees, nor do they resemble them in any way, so how it derived this name is a mystery. The triangular fronds are pale to bright green in color, which makes for an excellent contrast in deep shade where the shadows can make everything look dark and gloomy. Oak ferns are hardy in USDA zones 2 through 8, which means they are extremely cold tolerant. They are deciduous, so they won’t keep their greenery through the winter, but they should come back every spring even after very harsh weather.
Oak Fern Cultivation in Gardens
Caring for oak ferns is extremely easy. The plants prefer deep shade, but they will do well in partial shade. They like neutral to slightly acidic soil that is sandy or loamy. They need good drainage but lots of moisture and prefer rich, leafy or compost heavy soil. Oak fern plants can be propagated by spores or division. Collect the spores from the undersides of the fronds in late summer or fall and plant them in the spring, or simply divide the rhizomes in the spring. Because of its ease and success at transplanting, oak fern is a desirable plant to have in the garden. While moving established ferns to a new location is simple, they will also spread out naturally through spores and rhizomes if you leave them alone.
As long as you provide the plants with their basic lighting and soil needs, little else is necessary to keep them growing in the garden. Oak ferns also make great companions to other fernsand woodland plants like trillium, jack in the pulpit, Jacob’s ladder and Virginia bluebells.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
New Zealand flax (Phormium tenax) was once thought to be related to Agave but has since been placed in the Phormium family. New Zealand flax plants are popular ornamentals in United States Department of Agriculture zone 8. Their fan-like form and easy growth from rhizomes are excellent accents in containers, perennial gardens, and even coastal regions. Once you know how to grow New Zealand flax, you may be rewarded with 6- to 10-foot wide plants with an amazing potential height of 20 feet in perfect conditions.
New Zealand Flax Plant Information
New Zealand flax plants have two main species in cultivation but numerous cultivars. Cultivars exhibit red, yellow, green, burgundy, purple, maroon and many more foliage colors. There are even variegated flax for exciting foliar contrast. If plants are in warm enough regions, caring for New Zealand flax is a breeze with few insect or disease complaints and hardy establishment.
This flax is named for its fibrous leaves, which were once used to make baskets and textiles. All parts of the plant were used with medicine made from roots, face powder from flower pollen and old blooming stems roped together as rafts. Leaves are keel shaped, coming to a decided point. They can be used as decorative plants in zones 9 to 11 with best growth in zone 8.
New Zealand flax plant information indicates that tubular, showy flowers appear on erect stems but only in their native region and rarely in greenhouse care. New Zealand flax plants offer architectural interest but are not winter hardy and should be brought indoors for winter in most climates.
How to Grow New Zealand Flax
New Zealand flax is a slow growing perennial plant. The most common method of propagation is through division and fully rooted specimens are widely available at nursery centers. One of the main requirements this plant has is well-draining soil. Boggy or heavy clay soils will reduce growth and can contribute to rotten stems and rhizomes. The flax tolerates partial sun but will perform better in full sun situations. New Zealand flax attracts birds and is not attractive to deer. It is easy to maintain, drought tolerant when established and makes a good erosion control. New Zealand flax plant care is minimal once plants are mature, but the flax may suffer damaged and shredded leaf tips in windy and exposed sites.
Caring for New Zealand Flax
Hybrid flax plants are not as durable as the two base species. They require more water and some shelter from hot sunlight, which can burn the leaf tips. They are reliably hardy to 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 C.), but all species can simply be moved indoors in fall to prevent damage. Use a couple of inches of organic mulch around the root zone to conserve moisture, prevent weeds and insulate the rhizomes. Occasionally, pruning is necessary where damage has occurred due to sun or cold. Cut off dead and damaged leaves as needed.
The flax thrives in poor soils, so fertilization is not necessary, but annual top dressings of finely rotted compost can help add nutrients to the soil and increase percolation. New Zealand flax plant care is easiest to manage in containers in northern climates. Bring the plant inside for winter and gradually reintroduce it to outdoors when ambient temperatures warm in spring.
New Zealand Flax Plant Information
New Zealand flax plants have two main species in cultivation but numerous cultivars. Cultivars exhibit red, yellow, green, burgundy, purple, maroon and many more foliage colors. There are even variegated flax for exciting foliar contrast. If plants are in warm enough regions, caring for New Zealand flax is a breeze with few insect or disease complaints and hardy establishment.
This flax is named for its fibrous leaves, which were once used to make baskets and textiles. All parts of the plant were used with medicine made from roots, face powder from flower pollen and old blooming stems roped together as rafts. Leaves are keel shaped, coming to a decided point. They can be used as decorative plants in zones 9 to 11 with best growth in zone 8.
New Zealand flax plant information indicates that tubular, showy flowers appear on erect stems but only in their native region and rarely in greenhouse care. New Zealand flax plants offer architectural interest but are not winter hardy and should be brought indoors for winter in most climates.
How to Grow New Zealand Flax
New Zealand flax is a slow growing perennial plant. The most common method of propagation is through division and fully rooted specimens are widely available at nursery centers. One of the main requirements this plant has is well-draining soil. Boggy or heavy clay soils will reduce growth and can contribute to rotten stems and rhizomes. The flax tolerates partial sun but will perform better in full sun situations. New Zealand flax attracts birds and is not attractive to deer. It is easy to maintain, drought tolerant when established and makes a good erosion control. New Zealand flax plant care is minimal once plants are mature, but the flax may suffer damaged and shredded leaf tips in windy and exposed sites.
Caring for New Zealand Flax
Hybrid flax plants are not as durable as the two base species. They require more water and some shelter from hot sunlight, which can burn the leaf tips. They are reliably hardy to 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 C.), but all species can simply be moved indoors in fall to prevent damage. Use a couple of inches of organic mulch around the root zone to conserve moisture, prevent weeds and insulate the rhizomes. Occasionally, pruning is necessary where damage has occurred due to sun or cold. Cut off dead and damaged leaves as needed.
The flax thrives in poor soils, so fertilization is not necessary, but annual top dressings of finely rotted compost can help add nutrients to the soil and increase percolation. New Zealand flax plant care is easiest to manage in containers in northern climates. Bring the plant inside for winter and gradually reintroduce it to outdoors when ambient temperatures warm in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dwarf mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus ‘Nana’) is a Japanese plant that has charmed the gardens of the world. A decorative, low growing plant, this plant looks best when grouped together but sometimes there may only be a few plants available. This is where dwarf mondo grass propagation comes in handy. There are two propagation methods available for dwarf mondo grass. One is planting dwarf mondo grass seeds and the other is division of your plant.
Dwarf Mondo Grass Seeds
If you decided to grow dwarf mondo grass seeds, be aware that they are finicky and you may have trouble getting them to grow. They may also not grow true to the parent plant. This is the more difficult of dwarf mondo grass propagation. Harvest seeds yourself and plant immediately. Seeds you buy will have a lower germination rate the less fresh they are. Plant your seeds in sterile potting soil and place the pots in a cold frame or other cool area. These seeds will germinate best in cooler temperatures. Keep the dwarf mondo grass seeds moist at all times. Wait two weeks to six months for seeds to germinate. They will germinate at irregular times. Some may sprout in two weeks, while others will take much longer.
Dwarf Mondo Grass Division
A much easier and sure fire way of dwarf mondo grass propagation is through division. This way you can plant dwarf mondo grass that is exactly like the parent and you will have a much more uniform look to your plants. For division, dig up a well established clump of dwarf mondo grass. Use your hands to break the clump into smaller clumps or use a sharp, clean knife to cut the clump into smaller clumps.
Plant the dwarf mondo grass clumps in the locations you would like them to grow in. Water them thoroughly and weep well watered for the first few weeks until them become established. The best time to divide your mondo grass in in the early spring or early fall.
Dwarf Mondo Grass Seeds
If you decided to grow dwarf mondo grass seeds, be aware that they are finicky and you may have trouble getting them to grow. They may also not grow true to the parent plant. This is the more difficult of dwarf mondo grass propagation. Harvest seeds yourself and plant immediately. Seeds you buy will have a lower germination rate the less fresh they are. Plant your seeds in sterile potting soil and place the pots in a cold frame or other cool area. These seeds will germinate best in cooler temperatures. Keep the dwarf mondo grass seeds moist at all times. Wait two weeks to six months for seeds to germinate. They will germinate at irregular times. Some may sprout in two weeks, while others will take much longer.
Dwarf Mondo Grass Division
A much easier and sure fire way of dwarf mondo grass propagation is through division. This way you can plant dwarf mondo grass that is exactly like the parent and you will have a much more uniform look to your plants. For division, dig up a well established clump of dwarf mondo grass. Use your hands to break the clump into smaller clumps or use a sharp, clean knife to cut the clump into smaller clumps.
Plant the dwarf mondo grass clumps in the locations you would like them to grow in. Water them thoroughly and weep well watered for the first few weeks until them become established. The best time to divide your mondo grass in in the early spring or early fall.
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sheepdog：divide and conquer!
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Mondo grass is also known as monkey grass. It is an evergreen perennial that makes a great groundcover or standalone grass-like plant. These plants perform well in almost any soil and lighting condition. Mondo grass is a slow growing plant that can be divided to make more of them and requires minimal care once established. A truly attractive and outstanding landscape plant with a multitude of uses, it is well worth the gardener’s time to learn how to grow mondo grass.
Mondo Grass Information
Mondo grass can tolerate almost anything, including deer, but fails without adequate moisture. What is mondo grass? It is not a true grass but does have strappy leaves and a clumping habit. In summer it brightens up the area with lavender or white flowers that develop into glossy black fruit.
Growing mondo grass is easy, as the plant withstands neglect in regions where plentiful moisture is naturally available. Once established, you can pretty much forget about the plant unless you want to go check out its seasonal beauty, or it is time to divide it.
Imagine great grassy tussocks shrunk down to fairly land size and you can envision mondo grass. These small plants grow only 6 to 10 inches tall (15 to 25 cm.) and have a clumping or mounding nature depending upon variety. Ophiopogon japonicus is the scientific name and refers to the plant’s native region of Asia. The components of the name are derived from the Latin words for snake and beard, a reference to the spiky flowers. As a lawn substitute in shady to partially sunny locations, it is a great sod alternative that never needs mowing. Mondo grass spreads by stolons, or underground stems, and can slowly form dense colonies. Leaves are ½ inch wide (1.3 cm.) and glossy green or even variegated.
How to Grow Mondo Grass
Mondo grass care is extremely minimal but you do need to choose the correct site and prepare the bed for best results. Plants are light green in full sun but deeper green in shade. Either location works well provided soil is well draining and free of competitive weeds. You can separate clumps into sections, each with several stolons and plant 4 to 12 inches (10-30 cm.) apart depending on how quickly you want the area to fill in. Dwarf mondo should be planted 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) apart. Cover roots and stolons with loose soil but avoid covering the crown of the plant. Keep soil moderately moist during establishment.
Mondo Grass Care
If you are growing mondo grass as a lawn, there is little you need to maintain it. Remove any weeds as they appear and keep the area moist in the dry season. After winter storms, leaves may be ragged and can be trimmed back a bit for best appearance. Divide clumps every 3 years if grown as standalone plants. Mondo grass needs very little fertilizing. A once annual feeding in spring with a diluted grass feed is sufficient. Any mondo grass information should list its pest and disease issues. Snailsand slugsmay be a problem as can the pest scale. Disease issues are fungal and form during wet, warm periods. Serious damage by any of these is unlikely. There are numerous cultivars from which to choose, with variant flower colors and size. There is even a black-leaved mondo, which is an excellent foil for both green-leaved plants and brightly colored flora.
Mondo Grass Information
Mondo grass can tolerate almost anything, including deer, but fails without adequate moisture. What is mondo grass? It is not a true grass but does have strappy leaves and a clumping habit. In summer it brightens up the area with lavender or white flowers that develop into glossy black fruit.
Growing mondo grass is easy, as the plant withstands neglect in regions where plentiful moisture is naturally available. Once established, you can pretty much forget about the plant unless you want to go check out its seasonal beauty, or it is time to divide it.
Imagine great grassy tussocks shrunk down to fairly land size and you can envision mondo grass. These small plants grow only 6 to 10 inches tall (15 to 25 cm.) and have a clumping or mounding nature depending upon variety. Ophiopogon japonicus is the scientific name and refers to the plant’s native region of Asia. The components of the name are derived from the Latin words for snake and beard, a reference to the spiky flowers. As a lawn substitute in shady to partially sunny locations, it is a great sod alternative that never needs mowing. Mondo grass spreads by stolons, or underground stems, and can slowly form dense colonies. Leaves are ½ inch wide (1.3 cm.) and glossy green or even variegated.
How to Grow Mondo Grass
Mondo grass care is extremely minimal but you do need to choose the correct site and prepare the bed for best results. Plants are light green in full sun but deeper green in shade. Either location works well provided soil is well draining and free of competitive weeds. You can separate clumps into sections, each with several stolons and plant 4 to 12 inches (10-30 cm.) apart depending on how quickly you want the area to fill in. Dwarf mondo should be planted 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) apart. Cover roots and stolons with loose soil but avoid covering the crown of the plant. Keep soil moderately moist during establishment.
Mondo Grass Care
If you are growing mondo grass as a lawn, there is little you need to maintain it. Remove any weeds as they appear and keep the area moist in the dry season. After winter storms, leaves may be ragged and can be trimmed back a bit for best appearance. Divide clumps every 3 years if grown as standalone plants. Mondo grass needs very little fertilizing. A once annual feeding in spring with a diluted grass feed is sufficient. Any mondo grass information should list its pest and disease issues. Snailsand slugsmay be a problem as can the pest scale. Disease issues are fungal and form during wet, warm periods. Serious damage by any of these is unlikely. There are numerous cultivars from which to choose, with variant flower colors and size. There is even a black-leaved mondo, which is an excellent foil for both green-leaved plants and brightly colored flora.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Native plants make excellent additions to the home landscape. They are naturalized to the region and thrive without extra babying. Marsh fern plants are native to North America and Eurasia. What is a marsh fern? These ferns are adapted to full to partial sun locations and almost any soil. They are attractive, medium sized ferns that add a lush texture to the garden. Marsh fern care is minimal and the plant is fairly winter hardy. Read on for more marsh fern info and decide if this plant is right for your landscape.
What is Marsh Fern?
Marsh fern plants (Thelypteris palustris) have erect stems and occasionally pendant fronds. The plant is deciduous and loses its leaves in winter. An interesting piece of marsh fern info regards the two sets of leaves it bears. One is the smaller fertile frond and the other is a larger infertile frond.
Leaves are compound and pinnate with individual leaflets deeply divided and lance to oval shaped. There may be 10 to 40 pairs of leaflets on each leaf. The leaflets curve downward along their veins. Fertile leaves bear sori on the underside of the leaflets. These are small roundish rusty brown, fuzzy structures which contain the reproductive material of the fern. Marsh fern plants provide that perfect balance between tough and delicate. Their finely cut fronds are airy and lacy while their stoic nature makes them standout plants for the common sense gardener. All it really requires is shelter from the hottest rays of the day and consistent water to produce beautifully cut foliage year after year.
Growing Marsh Ferns
Marsh ferns thrive in boggy to moderately wet regions. Growing marsh ferns in the home landscape will require a location that mimics such conditions or constant irrigation. Sandy, acid soil provides the best medium, but this adaptable plant can survive in almost any medium as long as it is moist but not in standing water. Try growing marsh ferns around the edges of a water feature or pond, or along a swale where water collects in the rainy season. They are relatively unbothered by disease or pests. Remove any spent foliage as it occurs for best appearance. The plants pair well with other native species and ferns, such as Epimedium and marsh marigolds.
Marsh Fern Care
In cold climates with sustained freezes, apply mulch, such as organic bark or straw, around the plant’s crown to protect the root zone. You may want to cut off the spent fronds and make a teepee around the top of the plant. This cocoons it and adds extra protection. Remove the foliage and mulch in early spring so new fronds can break through. Ferns generally need no fertilization in average soil. If your soil is poor, use a balanced all-purpose food, diluted by half in early spring. Otherwise, marsh fern care couldn’t be easier. The plant has a moderate growth rate and regal appearance which is a boon to any garden.
What is Marsh Fern?
Marsh fern plants (Thelypteris palustris) have erect stems and occasionally pendant fronds. The plant is deciduous and loses its leaves in winter. An interesting piece of marsh fern info regards the two sets of leaves it bears. One is the smaller fertile frond and the other is a larger infertile frond.
Leaves are compound and pinnate with individual leaflets deeply divided and lance to oval shaped. There may be 10 to 40 pairs of leaflets on each leaf. The leaflets curve downward along their veins. Fertile leaves bear sori on the underside of the leaflets. These are small roundish rusty brown, fuzzy structures which contain the reproductive material of the fern. Marsh fern plants provide that perfect balance between tough and delicate. Their finely cut fronds are airy and lacy while their stoic nature makes them standout plants for the common sense gardener. All it really requires is shelter from the hottest rays of the day and consistent water to produce beautifully cut foliage year after year.
Growing Marsh Ferns
Marsh ferns thrive in boggy to moderately wet regions. Growing marsh ferns in the home landscape will require a location that mimics such conditions or constant irrigation. Sandy, acid soil provides the best medium, but this adaptable plant can survive in almost any medium as long as it is moist but not in standing water. Try growing marsh ferns around the edges of a water feature or pond, or along a swale where water collects in the rainy season. They are relatively unbothered by disease or pests. Remove any spent foliage as it occurs for best appearance. The plants pair well with other native species and ferns, such as Epimedium and marsh marigolds.
Marsh Fern Care
In cold climates with sustained freezes, apply mulch, such as organic bark or straw, around the plant’s crown to protect the root zone. You may want to cut off the spent fronds and make a teepee around the top of the plant. This cocoons it and adds extra protection. Remove the foliage and mulch in early spring so new fronds can break through. Ferns generally need no fertilization in average soil. If your soil is poor, use a balanced all-purpose food, diluted by half in early spring. Otherwise, marsh fern care couldn’t be easier. The plant has a moderate growth rate and regal appearance which is a boon to any garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Zebra grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’) is native to Japan and one of the Miscanthus maiden grass cultivars, all of which are used as ornamental grasses. Zebra grass plants die back in winter but are perennial and re-sprout in spring. The grasses provide four seasons of interest with young spring variegated striped foliage, summer copper colored inflorescence, fall golden leaves and winter texture and form. Zebra ornamental grass can get up to 6 feet high and produces a spectacular screen or specimen plant.
Characteristics of Zebra Grass Plants
There are few showier plants for the garden. Zebra ornamental plants have long arching leaves with appealing stripes across the width, like dappled foliage in the sun. The plant is perennial but the foliage dies off in cold weather, leaving an architecturally interesting skeleton. It produces brand new deep green leaves in spring that begin to show more and more golden striping as the leaf matures. The plants are hardy to USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 9. Choose a sunny to partially sunny location when growing zebra grass. Its clumping habit makes it perfect when planted in groups as a hedge or alone in a container.
Site Conditions for Growing Zebra Grass
Hot sunny summers help the plant form copper colored, feathery inflorescences in September. The plant then produces fluffy seeds, which provide airy distraction to the late fall foliage. This grass produces best in moist soils or even boggy riparian edges but established grasses can tolerate short periods of drought. USDA zones 5 to 9 are ideal for zebra grass planting. Work in compost or leaf litter to a depth of at least 6 inches prior to installing the plant. Space the plants 36 to 48 inches apart and install in spring when the plant is mostly dormant. In the cooler zones, choose a place on the western side of the house in a sheltered area or where cold doesn’t pocket.
How to Care for Zebra Grass
Zebra grass plants are resistant to most pests and diseases. They may get some foliar rusts or small leaf damage from chewing insects, but for the most part the plant is quite strong and hardy. Provide a full sun environment and plenty of water for best growth. The plants work well in containers but will need more water than those in the garden bed. Fertilize in spring with a good organic plant food. Cut back the inflorescences in either fall or spring. If you like the look of the dry feathery flowers, leave them until spring. If not, cut them back to within a few inches of the crown of the plant in fall. Remove any damaged foliage as it occurs.
If the plant is in too much shade, the leaf blades can get floppy, but you can provide a stake or even a tomato cage to help prop them upright.
Characteristics of Zebra Grass Plants
There are few showier plants for the garden. Zebra ornamental plants have long arching leaves with appealing stripes across the width, like dappled foliage in the sun. The plant is perennial but the foliage dies off in cold weather, leaving an architecturally interesting skeleton. It produces brand new deep green leaves in spring that begin to show more and more golden striping as the leaf matures. The plants are hardy to USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 9. Choose a sunny to partially sunny location when growing zebra grass. Its clumping habit makes it perfect when planted in groups as a hedge or alone in a container.
Site Conditions for Growing Zebra Grass
Hot sunny summers help the plant form copper colored, feathery inflorescences in September. The plant then produces fluffy seeds, which provide airy distraction to the late fall foliage. This grass produces best in moist soils or even boggy riparian edges but established grasses can tolerate short periods of drought. USDA zones 5 to 9 are ideal for zebra grass planting. Work in compost or leaf litter to a depth of at least 6 inches prior to installing the plant. Space the plants 36 to 48 inches apart and install in spring when the plant is mostly dormant. In the cooler zones, choose a place on the western side of the house in a sheltered area or where cold doesn’t pocket.
How to Care for Zebra Grass
Zebra grass plants are resistant to most pests and diseases. They may get some foliar rusts or small leaf damage from chewing insects, but for the most part the plant is quite strong and hardy. Provide a full sun environment and plenty of water for best growth. The plants work well in containers but will need more water than those in the garden bed. Fertilize in spring with a good organic plant food. Cut back the inflorescences in either fall or spring. If you like the look of the dry feathery flowers, leave them until spring. If not, cut them back to within a few inches of the crown of the plant in fall. Remove any damaged foliage as it occurs.
If the plant is in too much shade, the leaf blades can get floppy, but you can provide a stake or even a tomato cage to help prop them upright.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Miscanthus sinensis, or maiden grass, is a family of ornamental plants with a clumping habit and graceful arching stems. This group of grasses has added appeal in late summer with spectacular plumes and in fall with bronze to burgundy colored foliage. Miscanthus maiden grass is easy to care for and hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9. There are numerous maiden grass varieties with different sizes and foliage colors. Bring one of these elegant grasses into your home landscape for powerful dimension, color and movement.
Miscanthus Maiden Grass
Maiden grass thrives in full sun and may get 6 feet wide with a 10 foot spread. The grass requires well-drained soil, but is tolerant of excess moisture, dry conditions, acidic soils and even hard clay sites. Ornamental maiden grass is excellent used in containers, but more commonly planted in groups or as a border or along the edges of beds. Miscanthus maiden grass has a very regal appeal and provides elegant décor to flank the front entry or along the driveway. Just remember how tall and wide the grass will get and give it enough room to mature.
How to Grow Maiden Grass
Propagation of ornamental maiden grasses is through division. You may dig up a mature plant in early spring before new growth has appeared. Cut the root base into two to four sections and plant each as a new plant. You can do this every three years or more, but it is important to do it when the center of the plant is showing signs of dying out. This is an indicator that it is time to divide the grass. Rejuvenated plants result from division and they have a tighter clumping habit. If you want to know how to grow maiden grass from seed, get ready for a wait. Sow seeds indoors in a flat with a lid. Keep the soil in the flat lightly moist and place the flat in a warm area at least 60 F. (16 C.). The baby sprouts will grow slowly and you will not have a Miscanthus maiden grass big enough to plant outside for at least a year. Your best bet is to find a buddy with a grass and cut out a piece for yourself.
Maiden Grass Care
Maiden grass care couldn’t be simpler. The plants have no known pest or disease problems, except rust. Rust is a fungal disease that is transmitted to leaves when water splashes onto them. Water the plants from under the foliage and when the leaf blades will have time to dry off quickly.
Maiden Grass Varieties
‘Condensatus’ is a variety that can get 8 feet tall and has coarse foliage. ‘Gracillimus’ is a delicately leaved cultivar with a more upright growth habit. For colorful displays, ‘Purpurescens’ is red in summer and purplish red in fall, while ‘Silver Feather’ has shimmering whitish silver inflorescences. There are variegated varieties with horizontal yellow or white stripes, or vertical stripes along the leaf margins. Compact types are usually only 3 to 4 feet tall and suitable for containers. Do a little research on the many maiden grass varieties and choose the right one for your garden location.
Miscanthus Maiden Grass
Maiden grass thrives in full sun and may get 6 feet wide with a 10 foot spread. The grass requires well-drained soil, but is tolerant of excess moisture, dry conditions, acidic soils and even hard clay sites. Ornamental maiden grass is excellent used in containers, but more commonly planted in groups or as a border or along the edges of beds. Miscanthus maiden grass has a very regal appeal and provides elegant décor to flank the front entry or along the driveway. Just remember how tall and wide the grass will get and give it enough room to mature.
How to Grow Maiden Grass
Propagation of ornamental maiden grasses is through division. You may dig up a mature plant in early spring before new growth has appeared. Cut the root base into two to four sections and plant each as a new plant. You can do this every three years or more, but it is important to do it when the center of the plant is showing signs of dying out. This is an indicator that it is time to divide the grass. Rejuvenated plants result from division and they have a tighter clumping habit. If you want to know how to grow maiden grass from seed, get ready for a wait. Sow seeds indoors in a flat with a lid. Keep the soil in the flat lightly moist and place the flat in a warm area at least 60 F. (16 C.). The baby sprouts will grow slowly and you will not have a Miscanthus maiden grass big enough to plant outside for at least a year. Your best bet is to find a buddy with a grass and cut out a piece for yourself.
Maiden Grass Care
Maiden grass care couldn’t be simpler. The plants have no known pest or disease problems, except rust. Rust is a fungal disease that is transmitted to leaves when water splashes onto them. Water the plants from under the foliage and when the leaf blades will have time to dry off quickly.
Maiden Grass Varieties
‘Condensatus’ is a variety that can get 8 feet tall and has coarse foliage. ‘Gracillimus’ is a delicately leaved cultivar with a more upright growth habit. For colorful displays, ‘Purpurescens’ is red in summer and purplish red in fall, while ‘Silver Feather’ has shimmering whitish silver inflorescences. There are variegated varieties with horizontal yellow or white stripes, or vertical stripes along the leaf margins. Compact types are usually only 3 to 4 feet tall and suitable for containers. Do a little research on the many maiden grass varieties and choose the right one for your garden location.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
For finely textured foliage in the shady to part sun garden or natural wooded area, consider growing lady fern plants (Athyrium filix-femina). Lady fern plants are reliable, native plants and easy to grow in a moist, partially shaded location. When you’ve learned how to grow a lady fern, you’ll want to include them in many shady areas of the landscape. Care of lady ferns is not difficult once the plant is established in the right location.
Lady Ferns in the Garden
Locating lady fern plants may require observation of the spot before planting. Lady ferns in the woodland garden do best in a lightly shaded spot or an area that gets dappled sunlight year round.
Plant them in a loamy soil that is slightly on the acidic side, amended with shredded oak leaves or other organic material that is well composted. Soil should be well-draining so that roots do not rot. Poultry grit may also be worked in to improve drainage. Planting lady ferns in the right place allows them to colonize and provide an attractive ground cover. Choose the proper cultivar for your area too. Athyrium filix-femina angustum (Northern lady fern) performs best in the upper United States, while Southern lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina asplenioides) takes the extreme summer heat of the south. Both have upright arching fronds that may reach 24 to 48 inches. More than 300 cultivars of lady fern plants are available commercially as well.
How to Grow a Lady Fern
Ferns may be propagated from spores, called sori and indusia, that grow on the back of the leaves. Starting ferns from spores can be a time consuming process, so start your lady fern plants from division of the rhizomes or by purchasing small plants. Divide lady ferns in the garden in spring. Then plant your lady ferns in the shady location where the soil has been amended, if necessary. Water regularly when planting lady ferns in a new spot. Once established, however, the plants are somewhat drought resistant.
Fertilize in spring when new growth appears as part of lady fern care. Ferns are easily injured by too much fertilizer. A pelleted, time-release type works best, applied once in spring. Planting lady ferns is a great choice for the woodlands, the pond or any moist shaded area. Get them started in the garden this year.
Lady Ferns in the Garden
Locating lady fern plants may require observation of the spot before planting. Lady ferns in the woodland garden do best in a lightly shaded spot or an area that gets dappled sunlight year round.
Plant them in a loamy soil that is slightly on the acidic side, amended with shredded oak leaves or other organic material that is well composted. Soil should be well-draining so that roots do not rot. Poultry grit may also be worked in to improve drainage. Planting lady ferns in the right place allows them to colonize and provide an attractive ground cover. Choose the proper cultivar for your area too. Athyrium filix-femina angustum (Northern lady fern) performs best in the upper United States, while Southern lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina asplenioides) takes the extreme summer heat of the south. Both have upright arching fronds that may reach 24 to 48 inches. More than 300 cultivars of lady fern plants are available commercially as well.
How to Grow a Lady Fern
Ferns may be propagated from spores, called sori and indusia, that grow on the back of the leaves. Starting ferns from spores can be a time consuming process, so start your lady fern plants from division of the rhizomes or by purchasing small plants. Divide lady ferns in the garden in spring. Then plant your lady ferns in the shady location where the soil has been amended, if necessary. Water regularly when planting lady ferns in a new spot. Once established, however, the plants are somewhat drought resistant.
Fertilize in spring when new growth appears as part of lady fern care. Ferns are easily injured by too much fertilizer. A pelleted, time-release type works best, applied once in spring. Planting lady ferns is a great choice for the woodlands, the pond or any moist shaded area. Get them started in the garden this year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Japanese forest grass plant is an elegant member of the Hakonechloa family. These ornamental plants are slow growing and require little extra care once established. The plants are semi-evergreen (depending on where you live, and may die back over winter) and show best in a partially shaded location. There are several different colors of Japanese forest grass plants. Choose a color that enlivens the surrounding landscape when you are growing forest grass.
Japanese Forest Grass Plant
Japanese forest grass is an attractive, graceful plant that grows slowly and is not invasive. The grass gets 18 to 24 inches tall and has an arching habit with long flat, foliar blades. These arching blades sweep from the base and gracefully re-touch the earth. Japanese forest grass comes in several hues and may be solid or striped. Most varieties are variegated and have stripes. The variegation is white or yellow. Golden Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) is one of the more popular types and is a completely sunny, bright yellow variety. The golden Japanese forest grass is best planted in full shade. Sunlight will fade the yellow leaf blades to a white. The leaves get a pink tinge to the edges as fall arrives, increasing the appeal of this easy to grow plant. The following cultivars of golden Japanese forest grass are most commonly grown in the garden:
All Gold’ is a sunny golden Japanese forest grass that brightens up dark areas of the garden.
‘Aureola’ has green and yellow blades.
‘Albo Striata’ is striped with white.
Growing Forest Grass
Japanese forest grass plant is suitable for USDA zones 5 to 9. It can survive in zone 4 with heavy protection and mulching. The grass grows from stolens and rhizomes, which will cause it to slowly spread over time. The plant thrives in moist soils in low light situations. The blades become slightly narrower at the ends and the tips may become dry or brown when exposed to bright light. For best results, plant it in moderate to full shade in a well-drained area with nutrient rich soil.
Caring for Japanese Forest Grasses
Caring for Japanese forest grasses is not a very time consuming chore. Once planted, Japanese forest grass is an easy to care for ornamental. The grass should be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Spread an organic mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture. Hakonechloa doesn’t need supplemental fertilizing in good soils but if you do fertilize, wait until after the first blush of growth in spring. When sun hits the blades, they tend to brown. For those planted in sunnier areas, cut off the dead ends as needed to improve the appearance of the plant. In winter, cut back spent blades to the crown.
Older plants can be dug up and cut in half for quick propagation. Once the grass matures, it is easy to divide and propagate a new Japanese forest grass plant. Divide in spring or fall for the best plant starts.
Japanese Forest Grass Plant
Japanese forest grass is an attractive, graceful plant that grows slowly and is not invasive. The grass gets 18 to 24 inches tall and has an arching habit with long flat, foliar blades. These arching blades sweep from the base and gracefully re-touch the earth. Japanese forest grass comes in several hues and may be solid or striped. Most varieties are variegated and have stripes. The variegation is white or yellow. Golden Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) is one of the more popular types and is a completely sunny, bright yellow variety. The golden Japanese forest grass is best planted in full shade. Sunlight will fade the yellow leaf blades to a white. The leaves get a pink tinge to the edges as fall arrives, increasing the appeal of this easy to grow plant. The following cultivars of golden Japanese forest grass are most commonly grown in the garden:
All Gold’ is a sunny golden Japanese forest grass that brightens up dark areas of the garden.
‘Aureola’ has green and yellow blades.
‘Albo Striata’ is striped with white.
Growing Forest Grass
Japanese forest grass plant is suitable for USDA zones 5 to 9. It can survive in zone 4 with heavy protection and mulching. The grass grows from stolens and rhizomes, which will cause it to slowly spread over time. The plant thrives in moist soils in low light situations. The blades become slightly narrower at the ends and the tips may become dry or brown when exposed to bright light. For best results, plant it in moderate to full shade in a well-drained area with nutrient rich soil.
Caring for Japanese Forest Grasses
Caring for Japanese forest grasses is not a very time consuming chore. Once planted, Japanese forest grass is an easy to care for ornamental. The grass should be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Spread an organic mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture. Hakonechloa doesn’t need supplemental fertilizing in good soils but if you do fertilize, wait until after the first blush of growth in spring. When sun hits the blades, they tend to brown. For those planted in sunnier areas, cut off the dead ends as needed to improve the appearance of the plant. In winter, cut back spent blades to the crown.
Older plants can be dug up and cut in half for quick propagation. Once the grass matures, it is easy to divide and propagate a new Japanese forest grass plant. Divide in spring or fall for the best plant starts.
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