文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
When you think of an herb garden you may picture a summertime patch of colorful plants, but not all herbs exist just for summer harvest. Some of the most common herbs grown in the United States are evergreen. What are evergreen herbs? They hold their leaves through the winter, giving you a ready source of fresh flavorings and medicinal tea all year around. An evergreen herb garden may slow down production through the coldest of the winter months, but there will always be a good supply of herbs until the spring buds burst open.
Types of Evergreen Herb Plants for the Garden
The types of evergreen herb plants vary from area to area, but most of them are viable in most climates with some care during extreme weather. Some of the popular varieties of evergreen herbs to plant are: Sage – Sage is known as a healing plant and experiments are being done with it being used for Alzheimer’s patients. For the rest of us, sage is a tasty addition to holiday meals or any dish with a meat base. Rosemary – This fragrant herb keeps its tiny needles on its branches all year long. There is no need to dry rosemary sprigs when you can simply clip off a fresh stem whenever you want to use it in a dish. Lavender – Long known for its soothing, relaxing fragrance, lavender flowers are popular edible items for gourmet salads and other dishes. Juniper – Although most people may view juniper as simply a landscaping plant, its pungent needles are used in culinary dishes as well as medicinal applications.
Caring for Evergreen Herbs
Growing evergreen herbs requires a little more care than raising annual varieties, but the rewards are worth the effort. Watch the weather and give these plants some protection during the worst of winter weather by piling leaf mold around the base and covering the plants with fleece or other warm fabrics. Provide shade and extra water during the worst of the summer heat, especially if you live in a southern state. Prune the herbs in the spring before the buds swell. You’ll have a healthier plant plus clippings to sprout for a new collection of herb plants.
Types of Evergreen Herb Plants for the Garden
The types of evergreen herb plants vary from area to area, but most of them are viable in most climates with some care during extreme weather. Some of the popular varieties of evergreen herbs to plant are: Sage – Sage is known as a healing plant and experiments are being done with it being used for Alzheimer’s patients. For the rest of us, sage is a tasty addition to holiday meals or any dish with a meat base. Rosemary – This fragrant herb keeps its tiny needles on its branches all year long. There is no need to dry rosemary sprigs when you can simply clip off a fresh stem whenever you want to use it in a dish. Lavender – Long known for its soothing, relaxing fragrance, lavender flowers are popular edible items for gourmet salads and other dishes. Juniper – Although most people may view juniper as simply a landscaping plant, its pungent needles are used in culinary dishes as well as medicinal applications.
Caring for Evergreen Herbs
Growing evergreen herbs requires a little more care than raising annual varieties, but the rewards are worth the effort. Watch the weather and give these plants some protection during the worst of winter weather by piling leaf mold around the base and covering the plants with fleece or other warm fabrics. Provide shade and extra water during the worst of the summer heat, especially if you live in a southern state. Prune the herbs in the spring before the buds swell. You’ll have a healthier plant plus clippings to sprout for a new collection of herb plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
How to overwinter herbs? This is a difficult question because herb plants vary widely in their cold hardiness. Some perennial herbs will survive very cold winters with minimal protection, while tender perennials may not survive the first hard frost. If you’re concerned about winterizing your herb garden, the first step is to use your favorite Internet search engine and determine your plant’s cold hardiness, and be sure you know your USDA growing zone. Armed with that basic information, you can easily learn how to overwinter herbs.
Winterize Home Herb Gardens
Below are some general steps you can take in preparing herbs for winter.
Fertilizer – Never fertilize your herb garden after August. Fertilizing herbs late in the season will encourage tender new growth that may not survive the winter. Watering – Water plants throughout late summer and autumn, as drought-stressed plants are more susceptible to cold weather damage. If the winter is dry, the plants benefit from an occasional irrigation (when the ground isn’t frozen). Overwintering herbs that are perennial – Many perennial herbs are winter hardy. Some of these include:
Chives
Thyme
Mint
Fennel
Oregano
Lavender
In most climates, these plants just need a good pruning – down to a height of 4 to 6 inches, after the first few hard freezes. However, even sturdy plants benefit from a layer of mulch in climates below USDA plant hardiness zone 5. Apply a 3- to 6-inch layer of mulch, such as chopped leaves, straw, pine needles or bark mulch, but don’t apply the mulch until after the first hard freeze because you may damage the plant. Be sure to remove the mulch shortly after new growth appears in spring. Some perennial herbs, such as rosemary, bay laurel and lemon verbena, need a little extra help during the winter months. Cut the plants nearly to the ground after the first hard frost, then cover the plants with soil and top the soil with 4 to 6 inches of mulch. A layer of evergreen boughs will also protect perennial herbs from harsh, drying winds.
Overwintering tender perennials or annual herbs – Some perennials may not survive cold winters, depending on your particular growing zone. For example, rosemary tolerates winters in USDA hardiness zone 7, and possibly zone 6 with good protection. Rosemary is relatively difficult to grow indoors, but you might want to pot it up and give it a try. Rosemary needs cool temperatures, bright sunlight and soil kept lightly moist. Annual herbs, such as dill and coriander, survive for a single season and will be killed with the first frost. There isn’t much you can do about this, but be sure to pull the dead herbs and clear the area of plant debris. Otherwise, you’re providing a handy hiding place for pests that will make an appearance in spring.
Overwintering herbs indoors – If you’re concerned that your tender perennial herbs may not survive the winter, or if you want to continue using annual herbs year round, many herbs do well indoors. For example, you can pot up herbs like parsley or basil in autumn, then move them back outdoors in spring. Some container herbs can also be given winter protection outside.
Winterize Home Herb Gardens
Below are some general steps you can take in preparing herbs for winter.
Fertilizer – Never fertilize your herb garden after August. Fertilizing herbs late in the season will encourage tender new growth that may not survive the winter. Watering – Water plants throughout late summer and autumn, as drought-stressed plants are more susceptible to cold weather damage. If the winter is dry, the plants benefit from an occasional irrigation (when the ground isn’t frozen). Overwintering herbs that are perennial – Many perennial herbs are winter hardy. Some of these include:
Chives
Thyme
Mint
Fennel
Oregano
Lavender
In most climates, these plants just need a good pruning – down to a height of 4 to 6 inches, after the first few hard freezes. However, even sturdy plants benefit from a layer of mulch in climates below USDA plant hardiness zone 5. Apply a 3- to 6-inch layer of mulch, such as chopped leaves, straw, pine needles or bark mulch, but don’t apply the mulch until after the first hard freeze because you may damage the plant. Be sure to remove the mulch shortly after new growth appears in spring. Some perennial herbs, such as rosemary, bay laurel and lemon verbena, need a little extra help during the winter months. Cut the plants nearly to the ground after the first hard frost, then cover the plants with soil and top the soil with 4 to 6 inches of mulch. A layer of evergreen boughs will also protect perennial herbs from harsh, drying winds.
Overwintering tender perennials or annual herbs – Some perennials may not survive cold winters, depending on your particular growing zone. For example, rosemary tolerates winters in USDA hardiness zone 7, and possibly zone 6 with good protection. Rosemary is relatively difficult to grow indoors, but you might want to pot it up and give it a try. Rosemary needs cool temperatures, bright sunlight and soil kept lightly moist. Annual herbs, such as dill and coriander, survive for a single season and will be killed with the first frost. There isn’t much you can do about this, but be sure to pull the dead herbs and clear the area of plant debris. Otherwise, you’re providing a handy hiding place for pests that will make an appearance in spring.
Overwintering herbs indoors – If you’re concerned that your tender perennial herbs may not survive the winter, or if you want to continue using annual herbs year round, many herbs do well indoors. For example, you can pot up herbs like parsley or basil in autumn, then move them back outdoors in spring. Some container herbs can also be given winter protection outside.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Herbs are some of the most useful plants you can grow. They can be kept compact in containers, even in a sunny window in your kitchen. Anyone who’s used them knows that homegrown herbs taste better and are much cheaper than store bought herbs, and they usually only need to be used in small amounts. But sometimes your herbs can get away from you, and if you’re growing them outside, they can get beaten back by fall frost. In these cases, the best thing to do is to cut and preserve them. What are some of the best ways to do that? Keep reading to learn more about preserving herbs from the garden.
Preserving Herbs from the Garden
There are a few herb preservation methods, but two of the easiest and most successful are freezing and drying. These methods usually preserve the herbs’ color and flavor well.
Freezing herbs
When freezing fresh herbs, you can either blanch them first or not. Blanching can dampen the flavor a little, but it helps preserve the color better. To blanch, simply place your herbs in a colander and dump boiling water over them for a second – it doesn’t take much. Basil really benefits from blanching and will turn black if frozen without it. Herbs can be frozen whole or cut into smaller pieces. Whatever you decide to do, lay your herbs out on a cookie sheet and freeze the whole thing overnight. The next morning combine it all in a plastic bag and store it in the freezer – this keeps the herbs from freezing together as a solid, hard to use mass. Freezing fresh herbs can also be done using an ice cube tray. Cut up your herbs and press them into an ice cube tray, about a tablespoon per cube. Freeze it overnight. The next morning, fill the tray the rest of the way up with water. This will give you easy to use portions of frozen herbs.
Drying herbs
Another method for storing garden herbs is drying. Drying herbs can be done in the oven, the microwave, or by air. Lay your herbs on a cookie sheet and bake them on the lowest possible setting in the oven until they’re dry and brittle. Note, they will lose some flavor this way. You can also microwave them between paper towels for a few minutes for the same effect. A very popular and decorative way of drying herbs is to hang them upside down and allow them to air dry. Store them in a warm but, preferably, dark place to prevent the loss of flavor. Tie them in small bundles to allow for good air circulation. Now you’re ready to continue using and enjoying fresh herbs year round.
Preserving Herbs from the Garden
There are a few herb preservation methods, but two of the easiest and most successful are freezing and drying. These methods usually preserve the herbs’ color and flavor well.
Freezing herbs
When freezing fresh herbs, you can either blanch them first or not. Blanching can dampen the flavor a little, but it helps preserve the color better. To blanch, simply place your herbs in a colander and dump boiling water over them for a second – it doesn’t take much. Basil really benefits from blanching and will turn black if frozen without it. Herbs can be frozen whole or cut into smaller pieces. Whatever you decide to do, lay your herbs out on a cookie sheet and freeze the whole thing overnight. The next morning combine it all in a plastic bag and store it in the freezer – this keeps the herbs from freezing together as a solid, hard to use mass. Freezing fresh herbs can also be done using an ice cube tray. Cut up your herbs and press them into an ice cube tray, about a tablespoon per cube. Freeze it overnight. The next morning, fill the tray the rest of the way up with water. This will give you easy to use portions of frozen herbs.
Drying herbs
Another method for storing garden herbs is drying. Drying herbs can be done in the oven, the microwave, or by air. Lay your herbs on a cookie sheet and bake them on the lowest possible setting in the oven until they’re dry and brittle. Note, they will lose some flavor this way. You can also microwave them between paper towels for a few minutes for the same effect. A very popular and decorative way of drying herbs is to hang them upside down and allow them to air dry. Store them in a warm but, preferably, dark place to prevent the loss of flavor. Tie them in small bundles to allow for good air circulation. Now you’re ready to continue using and enjoying fresh herbs year round.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The kitchen herb garden, or potager, as it’s known in France, is traditionally a small section of the garden, or even a separate garden, where culinary and healing herb plants are grown along with fruits, veggies and ornamentals. Usually, these herb gardens are carefully laid out to provide easy access, but also aesthetic value. Read more to learn about plants with healing effects and designing a medicinal herb garden.
Using Medicinal Herbs in Gardens
For centuries, in almost every culture, the herb garden has held a special place in the garden. Long before walk-in clinics and huge medical complexes, people had to grow and prepare their own medicines. Healing herb plants were often grown in sacred gardens that not only provided healing from the plants themselves, but also to be aesthetically pleasing to the senses.
Herbs were arranged by size and texture, often in geometric patterns, along with fruit and vegetable espaliers. These ancient herb gardens ranged from simple cottage gardens to the formal knot gardens of England. Most home gardeners don’t have the room or the time to create and maintain a formal knot garden in their yard. However, you can incorporate healing herb plants into your existing landscape and flower beds. The next section will cover common healing herb uses, as well as the role they can play in the landscape.
Plants with Healing Effects
Here are some commonly used healing herb plants:
Lavender
Who can resist the relaxing scent and quaint charm of a Lavender border? Hardy in zones 5-9, the bluish hue of Lavender’s leaves and pale purple flowers are an excellent candidate for defining the lines between lawn and garden. A lavender bordered sidewalk or path has an inviting feel and soothing scent. Lavender is used medicinally to cure headaches, insomnia, relieve tension and as a natural insect repellent. As a growing plant in the garden, it gives off a beautiful calming scent and can be trimmed to promote bushier growth or shaped to form knots or topiaries. Use leaves and flowers in teas and lemonade.
Thyme, Viola, Chamomile
Use low growing common healing herbs like Thyme, Violas or Chamomile for useful and attractive ground over. Thyme looks and smells wondrous, cascading over retaining walls or nestled between pavers for a natural looking garden path in full sun to part shade. Hardy in zones 4-11, Thyme is used to treat coughs, colds, congestion, headaches, insomnia and cuts. Thyme is also used in oral and skin care. Violas are hardy in zones 2-9 and seem happy to grow anywhere from full sun-full shade. With most Violas only reaching 6” tall, they make excellent, consistently blooming ground overs. The leaves and flowers of Violas are used to treat eczema, acne, swollen glands, cold symptoms, migraines and headaches, asthma and arthritic pain. Chamomile is an annual that will reseed itself in most zones. The dainty white flowers and light green ferny foliage, make low growing chamomile a beautiful ground over or border for cottage gardens. Chamomile is used to treat insomnia, headaches, tension, anxiety, and also used for skin and hair care.
Lemon Balm, Feverfew, Sage
If you are looking for medium height accent plants with medicinal value, look no further than Lemon Balm, Feverfew and Sage. Lemon Balm is hardy in zones 4-9 and is mound forming, growing to about 12”-18” high. Lemon Balm is used to treat anxiety, insomnia, cuts and bruises, insect bites and upset stomachs. Feverfew is a 2-foot tall perennial in zones 5-9 covered with dainty daisy-like flowers in full sun- part shade. Feverfew flowers are used for headaches and migraines, arthritis pain and skin irritations. Also growing about 2 feet tall and hardy in zones 4-9, Sage makes a lovely mid-sized landscape accent plant for full sun. Sage is used for colds and sore throats, dental problems, cuts, skin care, hair care and to relieve to symptoms of PMS and menopause. Sage is also a natural deodorant and insect repellent.
Dill and Rosemary
For healing herb plants that add a splash of drama to the landscape, try Mammoth Dill or Rosemary. Mammoth Dill is a tall annual that will reseed itself profusely. The feathery foliage and lime green umbel flowers have quite a stunning effect at the back of a flower bed. Dill flowers and foliage are used to settle the stomach and treat muscle cramps. Rosemary comes in upright or creeping forms. In zones 8-10, it is a sun-loving evergreen. In any zone, its dark green, pine-like foliage makes a beautiful accent. Rosemary is used medicinally to treat headaches, arthritis, coughs, colds, congestion, bronchitis and baldness. Rosemary is also used to increase memory and focus, improve circulation and as a natural insect repellent. You will find Rosemary in many hair and skin care products due to its regenerative effects on hair and skin.
Using Medicinal Herbs in Gardens
For centuries, in almost every culture, the herb garden has held a special place in the garden. Long before walk-in clinics and huge medical complexes, people had to grow and prepare their own medicines. Healing herb plants were often grown in sacred gardens that not only provided healing from the plants themselves, but also to be aesthetically pleasing to the senses.
Herbs were arranged by size and texture, often in geometric patterns, along with fruit and vegetable espaliers. These ancient herb gardens ranged from simple cottage gardens to the formal knot gardens of England. Most home gardeners don’t have the room or the time to create and maintain a formal knot garden in their yard. However, you can incorporate healing herb plants into your existing landscape and flower beds. The next section will cover common healing herb uses, as well as the role they can play in the landscape.
Plants with Healing Effects
Here are some commonly used healing herb plants:
Lavender
Who can resist the relaxing scent and quaint charm of a Lavender border? Hardy in zones 5-9, the bluish hue of Lavender’s leaves and pale purple flowers are an excellent candidate for defining the lines between lawn and garden. A lavender bordered sidewalk or path has an inviting feel and soothing scent. Lavender is used medicinally to cure headaches, insomnia, relieve tension and as a natural insect repellent. As a growing plant in the garden, it gives off a beautiful calming scent and can be trimmed to promote bushier growth or shaped to form knots or topiaries. Use leaves and flowers in teas and lemonade.
Thyme, Viola, Chamomile
Use low growing common healing herbs like Thyme, Violas or Chamomile for useful and attractive ground over. Thyme looks and smells wondrous, cascading over retaining walls or nestled between pavers for a natural looking garden path in full sun to part shade. Hardy in zones 4-11, Thyme is used to treat coughs, colds, congestion, headaches, insomnia and cuts. Thyme is also used in oral and skin care. Violas are hardy in zones 2-9 and seem happy to grow anywhere from full sun-full shade. With most Violas only reaching 6” tall, they make excellent, consistently blooming ground overs. The leaves and flowers of Violas are used to treat eczema, acne, swollen glands, cold symptoms, migraines and headaches, asthma and arthritic pain. Chamomile is an annual that will reseed itself in most zones. The dainty white flowers and light green ferny foliage, make low growing chamomile a beautiful ground over or border for cottage gardens. Chamomile is used to treat insomnia, headaches, tension, anxiety, and also used for skin and hair care.
Lemon Balm, Feverfew, Sage
If you are looking for medium height accent plants with medicinal value, look no further than Lemon Balm, Feverfew and Sage. Lemon Balm is hardy in zones 4-9 and is mound forming, growing to about 12”-18” high. Lemon Balm is used to treat anxiety, insomnia, cuts and bruises, insect bites and upset stomachs. Feverfew is a 2-foot tall perennial in zones 5-9 covered with dainty daisy-like flowers in full sun- part shade. Feverfew flowers are used for headaches and migraines, arthritis pain and skin irritations. Also growing about 2 feet tall and hardy in zones 4-9, Sage makes a lovely mid-sized landscape accent plant for full sun. Sage is used for colds and sore throats, dental problems, cuts, skin care, hair care and to relieve to symptoms of PMS and menopause. Sage is also a natural deodorant and insect repellent.
Dill and Rosemary
For healing herb plants that add a splash of drama to the landscape, try Mammoth Dill or Rosemary. Mammoth Dill is a tall annual that will reseed itself profusely. The feathery foliage and lime green umbel flowers have quite a stunning effect at the back of a flower bed. Dill flowers and foliage are used to settle the stomach and treat muscle cramps. Rosemary comes in upright or creeping forms. In zones 8-10, it is a sun-loving evergreen. In any zone, its dark green, pine-like foliage makes a beautiful accent. Rosemary is used medicinally to treat headaches, arthritis, coughs, colds, congestion, bronchitis and baldness. Rosemary is also used to increase memory and focus, improve circulation and as a natural insect repellent. You will find Rosemary in many hair and skin care products due to its regenerative effects on hair and skin.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Parsley is one of the most popular and commonly grown herbs with a variety of culinary uses and an ability to thrive in either cool or warm climes. Simply provide the parsley plants with well-drained soil and plenty of irrigation for healthy herbs. But, what’s going on when the parsley has yellow spots on leaves? Keep reading for answers to why parsley plants turn yellow.
Why Does Parsley Turn Yellow?
If your parsley plant suddenly looks peaked, you may be searching for the answer to the question, “Why does parsley turn yellow?” Parsley leaves yellowing may be the result of a number of factors. Let’s take a look at some of the most common:
Leaf spot fungus – A fungal infection called leaf spot may quite possibly be the culprit, resulting in parsley leaves yellowing. Both sides of the leaves are afflicted with yellow specks, which gradually turn dark brown with tiny black pin spots in the center and a yellow outer border. Leaves weaken and wilt and will eventually drop off altogether. Use a fungicide to control the infection, or if severely afflicted, the entire plant may need to be dug up and discarded. Blight – Another reason your parsley plant has yellow spots on leaves may be from blight, with onset symptoms that include brownish patches on the foliage. As this infection progresses, typically the blotching overtakes the leaves, causing the plant to die.
Caused by high humidity conditions, the remedy obviously is to avoid watering the foliage and water at the base of the plant only to reduce humidity levels. Also water in the morning so the plant can dry, and thin the plant to encourage air circulation. Crown or root rot – Yet another possibility for your parsley plant going yellow may be crown rot and root rot. Crown and root rot affect the entire plant, eventually resulting in its demise and is caused by bacteria and fungi in the soil media. Soggy or mushy roots, red blotches on the taproot, reddish discoloration at the root, browning of the roots and stems, sickly leaves and water rings at the stem are all signs of crown and root rot. Again, keep the plant in sunlight and water in the morning so the soil can dry out. Crop rotation may help with the eradication of crown and root rot. Also, this fungus occurs in late winter thaws when dead leaves decompose, harboring bacteria and fungi which are then spread to healthy plants. Treat parsley as an annual and pull in the fall of their first growing season. Stemphylium fungus – Stemphylium vesicarium, a fungus more often found in crops such as garlic, leek, onion, asparagus and alfalfa, has recently been found to afflict parsley herbs with the result of growing parsley turning yellow and dying off. To minimize issues with this disease, space parsley plants apart and water in the morning.
Septoria leaf spot – Septoria leaf spot on tomatoes is also a very common cause of yellowing or yellow to tan to brown lesions with yellow border on parsley leaves. A general garden fungicide should be applied, or if the infection is rampant, remove the plant entirely. A disease resistant variety of parsley should be planted, such as ‘Paramount.’ Spider mites – Finally, spider mites are another culprit that causes the yellowing of parsley foliage. To get rid of spider mites, an insecticide may be applied or predator ants or predator mites may be introduced. To attract the ants, sprinkle some sugar around the base of the plant. Predator mites will need to be purchased at a garden center or nursery. Additionally, the application of neem oil and insecticidal soaps will greatly reduce the spider mite population. Be sure to cover the underside of the leaves.
Why Does Parsley Turn Yellow?
If your parsley plant suddenly looks peaked, you may be searching for the answer to the question, “Why does parsley turn yellow?” Parsley leaves yellowing may be the result of a number of factors. Let’s take a look at some of the most common:
Leaf spot fungus – A fungal infection called leaf spot may quite possibly be the culprit, resulting in parsley leaves yellowing. Both sides of the leaves are afflicted with yellow specks, which gradually turn dark brown with tiny black pin spots in the center and a yellow outer border. Leaves weaken and wilt and will eventually drop off altogether. Use a fungicide to control the infection, or if severely afflicted, the entire plant may need to be dug up and discarded. Blight – Another reason your parsley plant has yellow spots on leaves may be from blight, with onset symptoms that include brownish patches on the foliage. As this infection progresses, typically the blotching overtakes the leaves, causing the plant to die.
Caused by high humidity conditions, the remedy obviously is to avoid watering the foliage and water at the base of the plant only to reduce humidity levels. Also water in the morning so the plant can dry, and thin the plant to encourage air circulation. Crown or root rot – Yet another possibility for your parsley plant going yellow may be crown rot and root rot. Crown and root rot affect the entire plant, eventually resulting in its demise and is caused by bacteria and fungi in the soil media. Soggy or mushy roots, red blotches on the taproot, reddish discoloration at the root, browning of the roots and stems, sickly leaves and water rings at the stem are all signs of crown and root rot. Again, keep the plant in sunlight and water in the morning so the soil can dry out. Crop rotation may help with the eradication of crown and root rot. Also, this fungus occurs in late winter thaws when dead leaves decompose, harboring bacteria and fungi which are then spread to healthy plants. Treat parsley as an annual and pull in the fall of their first growing season. Stemphylium fungus – Stemphylium vesicarium, a fungus more often found in crops such as garlic, leek, onion, asparagus and alfalfa, has recently been found to afflict parsley herbs with the result of growing parsley turning yellow and dying off. To minimize issues with this disease, space parsley plants apart and water in the morning.
Septoria leaf spot – Septoria leaf spot on tomatoes is also a very common cause of yellowing or yellow to tan to brown lesions with yellow border on parsley leaves. A general garden fungicide should be applied, or if the infection is rampant, remove the plant entirely. A disease resistant variety of parsley should be planted, such as ‘Paramount.’ Spider mites – Finally, spider mites are another culprit that causes the yellowing of parsley foliage. To get rid of spider mites, an insecticide may be applied or predator ants or predator mites may be introduced. To attract the ants, sprinkle some sugar around the base of the plant. Predator mites will need to be purchased at a garden center or nursery. Additionally, the application of neem oil and insecticidal soaps will greatly reduce the spider mite population. Be sure to cover the underside of the leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
If you plant an herb garden, by all means use it! Herbs are meant to be cut; otherwise, they get gangly or woody. Parsley is no exception and if you don’t prune it, you end up with leggy parsley plants. So what can you do about overgrown or leggy parsley plants?
Droopy, Leggy, Overgrown Parsley
If you have a drooping parsley plant or parsley plants falling over every which way, it may be too late, especially if the plant has blossomed and gone to seed. Don’t despair. Parsley grows rapidly from seed or you can get some inexpensive starts from the local nursery. Moving forward, however, you will want to learn how to trim parsley (and use it!) to avoid drooping and falling over parsley plants.
Of course, if your parsley plant is droopy, you might just need to give it some water. If it doesn’t appear to be leggy and the temps have been high, some extra irrigation just might remedy the situation. If you ascertain that the parsley plant is droopy due to extreme temps and dry soil, trim the plant back and water it generously. Trimming parsley increases the yield of the plant. If it is not occasionally thinned, it loses vigor. Cutting it back will also prevent it from taking over and choking out other plants or herbs. Also, parsley flowers should be routinely cut back or pinched. If allowed to go to seed, you’ll have more parsley than you know what to do with. When you remove the blossoms, the energy the plant was using towards seed production is redirected towards foliage production, which makes the plant grow more vigorously. Pruning also helps prevent some diseases, such as powdery mildew, by opening up the plant and increasing air flow.
How to Trim Parsley
If the parsley has any flowers, pinch them back (deadhead) or remove them with scissors. First, check and see of your parsley plants have grown any blooms. If these blooms have begun to fade, it’s important that you deadhead them. To deadhead means to remove the dying flowers before they form seeds. You may have also heard of this process described as pinching back the flowers. By “deadheading” or “pinching back” the dying flower blooms, you prevent the plant from over seeding all over your herb garden. This will keep your parsley vigorous and assist in preventing the plant from taking over. Take a sharp pair of scissors and cut off the flower stalk at the root. Next, remove any yellowed, spotted or shriveled leaves as well as those that are munched on by insects. Then give the parsley a 1/3 inch trim. Cut or pinch off 1/3 inch off the tops of the plant which will control the growth of the parsley. You can do this any time the parsley is getting too large.
Harvesting for use in cooking can take place any time after the leaves have become well formed. Cut the outer leaves and stems down to the ground, leaving the inner stems to grow. Don’t be afraid to cut too much. Your parsley will love it. Once you have pruned the parsley, mulch around the plants with mature compost to aid in water retention. Remember that parsley is a biennial herb. This means that it grows for only two years. At the end of the two years, parsley bolts, or sends up a bunch of flower stalks, goes to seed, and dies. In fact, many people treat parsley as an annual and discard and replant each year.
Droopy, Leggy, Overgrown Parsley
If you have a drooping parsley plant or parsley plants falling over every which way, it may be too late, especially if the plant has blossomed and gone to seed. Don’t despair. Parsley grows rapidly from seed or you can get some inexpensive starts from the local nursery. Moving forward, however, you will want to learn how to trim parsley (and use it!) to avoid drooping and falling over parsley plants.
Of course, if your parsley plant is droopy, you might just need to give it some water. If it doesn’t appear to be leggy and the temps have been high, some extra irrigation just might remedy the situation. If you ascertain that the parsley plant is droopy due to extreme temps and dry soil, trim the plant back and water it generously. Trimming parsley increases the yield of the plant. If it is not occasionally thinned, it loses vigor. Cutting it back will also prevent it from taking over and choking out other plants or herbs. Also, parsley flowers should be routinely cut back or pinched. If allowed to go to seed, you’ll have more parsley than you know what to do with. When you remove the blossoms, the energy the plant was using towards seed production is redirected towards foliage production, which makes the plant grow more vigorously. Pruning also helps prevent some diseases, such as powdery mildew, by opening up the plant and increasing air flow.
How to Trim Parsley
If the parsley has any flowers, pinch them back (deadhead) or remove them with scissors. First, check and see of your parsley plants have grown any blooms. If these blooms have begun to fade, it’s important that you deadhead them. To deadhead means to remove the dying flowers before they form seeds. You may have also heard of this process described as pinching back the flowers. By “deadheading” or “pinching back” the dying flower blooms, you prevent the plant from over seeding all over your herb garden. This will keep your parsley vigorous and assist in preventing the plant from taking over. Take a sharp pair of scissors and cut off the flower stalk at the root. Next, remove any yellowed, spotted or shriveled leaves as well as those that are munched on by insects. Then give the parsley a 1/3 inch trim. Cut or pinch off 1/3 inch off the tops of the plant which will control the growth of the parsley. You can do this any time the parsley is getting too large.
Harvesting for use in cooking can take place any time after the leaves have become well formed. Cut the outer leaves and stems down to the ground, leaving the inner stems to grow. Don’t be afraid to cut too much. Your parsley will love it. Once you have pruned the parsley, mulch around the plants with mature compost to aid in water retention. Remember that parsley is a biennial herb. This means that it grows for only two years. At the end of the two years, parsley bolts, or sends up a bunch of flower stalks, goes to seed, and dies. In fact, many people treat parsley as an annual and discard and replant each year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Most herbs are easy to grow in well-drained soil and bright light, and parsley is no exception. This common herb has a rich history of use for flavoring, medicine, ritual purposes and it even freshens your breath after a meal. Wilted parsley plants may represent a water issue or even disease. Refreshing wilted parsley might be as simple as providing water, but be cautious. Too much moisture can have a similar effect and may promote rot, a condition the plant can’t overcome.
Why a Parsley Plant is Wilting
You’ve planted a variety of herbs in your cottage garden or a window box and now it’s time to let them flourish and begin using them in your favorite dishes. One day you look out the window and wonder, “Why is my parsley plant wilting?” Site conditions, lighting, moisture levels, disease, damping off and even failure to harden off seedlings can cause limp leaves and stems. Put on your Sherlock Holmes hat and let’s walk through a few possible causes and solutions.
If young plants are wilting, it may be a symptom of damping off or you may have forgotten to harden off seedlings. Damping off is caused by a fungus that favors overly moist, warm conditions. Often grayish fuzz will appear at the base of the plant, which will eventually rot off the stems, separating them from the life-giving roots. Wilted parsley plants may also come about due to improperly exposing new plants to the outdoors. Indoor grown seedlings require some time to adapt to outdoor lighting, wind and temperature circumstances. Gradually exposing them to the outside setting will give them a chance to adapt and prevent stress, sun and wind burn and other issues. A few diseases are the cause when a parsley plant is wilting. Stem rot and leaf spot will cause yellowing foliage and eventually limp leaves. Destroy these plants.
Cultural Care of Parsley Plants
Parsley is fairly easy to grow provided the soil drains freely and the plants get adequate light. Plant parsley in moist, rich soil that has been loosened deeply. This will promote deep rooting and help plants uptake water and nutrients. Spread mulch loosely around the plants to prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Parsley likes consistent moisture but cannot tolerate boggy soil. Keeping the soil evenly moist will make for happy plants, but too much or too little water can cause wilting. Full sun locations in the summer may also see limp leaves and stems appearing during the middle of the day. This is because the plant is evaporating more moisture than it can uptake. Watering them is not always the correct response to refreshing wilted parsley. Try shading them during this time of day. Usually the plants perk up in the evening and morning.
How to Revive Wilted Parsley
Container grown plants need more water than those in the ground. Check the soil to a depth of 3 inches with your finger. If it is dry, water until the pot leeches the soil through the drainage holes. You may also want to move the container to a lower light situation in the hottest part of the summer. If soil doesn’t drain freely, wait until the cool of evening and dig the plant up. Incorporate some sand or other gritty matter to increase percolation. Replant the parsley and water it in. It may seem wilted for a few days due to shock but should eventually recover.
Why a Parsley Plant is Wilting
You’ve planted a variety of herbs in your cottage garden or a window box and now it’s time to let them flourish and begin using them in your favorite dishes. One day you look out the window and wonder, “Why is my parsley plant wilting?” Site conditions, lighting, moisture levels, disease, damping off and even failure to harden off seedlings can cause limp leaves and stems. Put on your Sherlock Holmes hat and let’s walk through a few possible causes and solutions.
If young plants are wilting, it may be a symptom of damping off or you may have forgotten to harden off seedlings. Damping off is caused by a fungus that favors overly moist, warm conditions. Often grayish fuzz will appear at the base of the plant, which will eventually rot off the stems, separating them from the life-giving roots. Wilted parsley plants may also come about due to improperly exposing new plants to the outdoors. Indoor grown seedlings require some time to adapt to outdoor lighting, wind and temperature circumstances. Gradually exposing them to the outside setting will give them a chance to adapt and prevent stress, sun and wind burn and other issues. A few diseases are the cause when a parsley plant is wilting. Stem rot and leaf spot will cause yellowing foliage and eventually limp leaves. Destroy these plants.
Cultural Care of Parsley Plants
Parsley is fairly easy to grow provided the soil drains freely and the plants get adequate light. Plant parsley in moist, rich soil that has been loosened deeply. This will promote deep rooting and help plants uptake water and nutrients. Spread mulch loosely around the plants to prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Parsley likes consistent moisture but cannot tolerate boggy soil. Keeping the soil evenly moist will make for happy plants, but too much or too little water can cause wilting. Full sun locations in the summer may also see limp leaves and stems appearing during the middle of the day. This is because the plant is evaporating more moisture than it can uptake. Watering them is not always the correct response to refreshing wilted parsley. Try shading them during this time of day. Usually the plants perk up in the evening and morning.
How to Revive Wilted Parsley
Container grown plants need more water than those in the ground. Check the soil to a depth of 3 inches with your finger. If it is dry, water until the pot leeches the soil through the drainage holes. You may also want to move the container to a lower light situation in the hottest part of the summer. If soil doesn’t drain freely, wait until the cool of evening and dig the plant up. Incorporate some sand or other gritty matter to increase percolation. Replant the parsley and water it in. It may seem wilted for a few days due to shock but should eventually recover.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
It’s inevitable, but there are a few things that can delay it. What am I talking about? Bolting parsley plants. Basically that means that rather suddenly your parsley has flowered and then the parsley plant has gone to seed. Read on to find out what to do when your parsley bolts?
What to Do When Parsley Bolts
By the time the parsley plant has gone to seed or bolted, it’s too late. The best idea is to learn how to keep parsley from bolting in the first place, or at least how to slow down the inevitable process. If your parsley plant is bolting, it will likely have not much left in it. Probably the best idea is to pull it up and replant.
How to Keep Parsley from Bolting
Bolting usually occurs when the weather goes into overdrive and rapidly heats up. The plant does the same, flowering rapidly and setting seeds. At this juncture, the plant also stops producing leaves. Before you get to that point of no return, what can be done to prevent parsley plant bolting? The following tips may help keep parsley from bolting: First of all, keep or move parsley to a cooler or lightly shaded area, especially if temperatures soar. Plant your parsley earlier in the spring to extend to allow the herb to utilize the cool growing season. No matter what, the plant will likely bolt as temps heat up, but you will have more time to harvest. On the subject of harvest, as with all herbs, the more leaves you harvest, the more energy the plant focuses on regrowing foliage and not flowers. Don’t get too scissor happy though. Only take one-quarter to one-third of a stem at any one time. Again, this will work for a while, but the plant will eventually bolt. If the plant does begin to flower, nip them in the bud, literally. Pinch the flowers off ASAP.
Lastly, to thwart bolting parsley plants, stagger plantings of parsley. Start the seeds indoors and then gradually introduce the seedlings to the outdoors. Begin by placing them outside just in the morning for a week and then gradually increase their time outside. If you live in a scorching hot region, be sure to do this in an area with dappled shade or place the seedlings under or behind a larger plant that will shade them somewhat. You can also try growing parsley indoors on the windowsill or the like. The temperature indoors is often more comfortable for us as well as the parsley.
What to Do When Parsley Bolts
By the time the parsley plant has gone to seed or bolted, it’s too late. The best idea is to learn how to keep parsley from bolting in the first place, or at least how to slow down the inevitable process. If your parsley plant is bolting, it will likely have not much left in it. Probably the best idea is to pull it up and replant.
How to Keep Parsley from Bolting
Bolting usually occurs when the weather goes into overdrive and rapidly heats up. The plant does the same, flowering rapidly and setting seeds. At this juncture, the plant also stops producing leaves. Before you get to that point of no return, what can be done to prevent parsley plant bolting? The following tips may help keep parsley from bolting: First of all, keep or move parsley to a cooler or lightly shaded area, especially if temperatures soar. Plant your parsley earlier in the spring to extend to allow the herb to utilize the cool growing season. No matter what, the plant will likely bolt as temps heat up, but you will have more time to harvest. On the subject of harvest, as with all herbs, the more leaves you harvest, the more energy the plant focuses on regrowing foliage and not flowers. Don’t get too scissor happy though. Only take one-quarter to one-third of a stem at any one time. Again, this will work for a while, but the plant will eventually bolt. If the plant does begin to flower, nip them in the bud, literally. Pinch the flowers off ASAP.
Lastly, to thwart bolting parsley plants, stagger plantings of parsley. Start the seeds indoors and then gradually introduce the seedlings to the outdoors. Begin by placing them outside just in the morning for a week and then gradually increase their time outside. If you live in a scorching hot region, be sure to do this in an area with dappled shade or place the seedlings under or behind a larger plant that will shade them somewhat. You can also try growing parsley indoors on the windowsill or the like. The temperature indoors is often more comfortable for us as well as the parsley.
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求助
lensucc
2017年08月26日
I saw some different colors of Pachyphytum oviferum (moonstone) I would like to have a pink color moonstone just like in the picture (picture not mine) is there any way to like, make it? you know hybrid of plants? how?
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rebeccamee：Enough sunlight and difference in temperature between day and night
Ueca：Many succulents do turn red from lots of sun.
lensucc：@Ueca so pachyphytum oviferum is naturally pink color?
Ueca：There's a species in another genus that has a similar appearance and is naturally purple - Graptopetalum amethystinum.
Otherwise, as far as I know, this pink colour depends on having enough sunlight.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
While there are a number of uses for mint plants, invasive varieties, of which there are many, can quickly take over the garden. That’s why controlling mint is vital; otherwise, you may be left scratching your head and wondering how to kill mint plants without going crazy in the process.
Controlling Mint
Even with the less aggressive varieties, controlling mint in the garden is important. Other than placing barriers deep in the ground to prevent their runners from spreading, growing mint in containers is probably the best way to keep these plants under control. Plant mint plants in bottomless containers that are sunk deep into the ground or grow them in large containers above ground. When sinking them in the ground, try to keep the container’s rim at least an inch or so above the soil. This should help keep the plant from spilling out into the rest of the garden.
How to Kill Mint Plants
Even under the best of situations, mint can become uncontrollable, wreaking havoc in the garden and driving gardeners to the edge. No garden lover enjoys killing plants, even mint. Invasive plants, however, oftentimes make this task a necessary evil. While it’s difficult to kill mint, it is possible but keep in mind that “patience is a virtue.” There are several ways to kill mint without the use of harmful chemicals, which should always be a last resort. Many people have had luck using boiling water to kill mint. Others swear by using a homemade mixture of salt, dish soap and white vinegar (2 cups salt, 1 teaspoon soap, 1 gallon vinegar). Both methods will require frequent applications onto the mint over some time in order to kill it. Be aware that these methods will kill any vegetation that it comes in contact with. If you still have problems, try covering the mint with thick layers of newspaper, followed by a layer of mulch to smother it. Those plants that still manage to find a way through can usually be pulled up easily.
When all else fails, grab the Round-up. While diluting this solution is often recommended, using the full strength may be more effective when trying to kill mint. If you don’t feel comfortable using chemicals to kill mint, your only option may be to get a good shovel and dig it all up. Be sure to get under the plant’s main root system, then bag it up and dispose of it or relocate the mint in a suitable container. Mint is well known for getting out of hand in the garden. Controlling mint through container gardening often helps; however, you may have to consider other tactics to kill mint if this plant becomes unruly.
Controlling Mint
Even with the less aggressive varieties, controlling mint in the garden is important. Other than placing barriers deep in the ground to prevent their runners from spreading, growing mint in containers is probably the best way to keep these plants under control. Plant mint plants in bottomless containers that are sunk deep into the ground or grow them in large containers above ground. When sinking them in the ground, try to keep the container’s rim at least an inch or so above the soil. This should help keep the plant from spilling out into the rest of the garden.
How to Kill Mint Plants
Even under the best of situations, mint can become uncontrollable, wreaking havoc in the garden and driving gardeners to the edge. No garden lover enjoys killing plants, even mint. Invasive plants, however, oftentimes make this task a necessary evil. While it’s difficult to kill mint, it is possible but keep in mind that “patience is a virtue.” There are several ways to kill mint without the use of harmful chemicals, which should always be a last resort. Many people have had luck using boiling water to kill mint. Others swear by using a homemade mixture of salt, dish soap and white vinegar (2 cups salt, 1 teaspoon soap, 1 gallon vinegar). Both methods will require frequent applications onto the mint over some time in order to kill it. Be aware that these methods will kill any vegetation that it comes in contact with. If you still have problems, try covering the mint with thick layers of newspaper, followed by a layer of mulch to smother it. Those plants that still manage to find a way through can usually be pulled up easily.
When all else fails, grab the Round-up. While diluting this solution is often recommended, using the full strength may be more effective when trying to kill mint. If you don’t feel comfortable using chemicals to kill mint, your only option may be to get a good shovel and dig it all up. Be sure to get under the plant’s main root system, then bag it up and dispose of it or relocate the mint in a suitable container. Mint is well known for getting out of hand in the garden. Controlling mint through container gardening often helps; however, you may have to consider other tactics to kill mint if this plant becomes unruly.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Mint is native to the Mediterranean but spread into Britain and eventually to America. The Pilgrims brought mint with them on their first journey overseas. One of the most favored of the mint plants is spearmint (Mentha spicata). This highly aromatic plant is valued for its culinary, medicinal and cosmetic use. Spearmint resembles peppermint, though spearmint plants have bright green leaves that are pointed, and lavender flower spikes that grow up to 4 inches long. When planted in ideal conditions, spearmint will reach a mature height and width of 12 to 24 inches. Growing spearmint plants in the garden is a rewarding and useful experience.
How to Grow Spearmint
Learning how to grow spearmint isn’t much different than growing other mint plants. Spearmint is a hardy perennial up to USDA plant hardiness Zone 5 that grows best in partial shade with well-draining, rich, moist soil and a pH of 6.5 to 7. Mint is easiest to grow from plants, but you can sow seed once the ground has warmed in the spring. Keep seeds moist until they germinate and thin plants to 1 foot apart. Spearmint, once planted takes off quickly and can take over quickly as well. Many people question how to plant spearmint due to its invasive nature. Some cautious gardeners grow spearmint in hanging baskets or containers to avoid having to pull out runners constantly. Another way to plant spearmint if you want it in the garden is to plant it in a 5-gallon pot with the bottom cut out. This will help keep the runners of growing spearmint plants from invading other spots of your garden.
Care of Spearmint
As with most types of mint, the care of spearmint is easy. Mint in the garden should be mulched annually to keep the roots cool and moist. Potted mint does best when fertilized monthly during the growing season with a liquid fertilizer. Divide plants every two years to keep them healthy. Prune potted plants regularly to keep neat and tidy. If you live in an area with very cold winters, it is best to bring potted spearmint indoors and place in a sunny window. Knowing how to plant spearmint correctly in the garden will provide you with years of lasting beauty and usefulness.
How to Grow Spearmint
Learning how to grow spearmint isn’t much different than growing other mint plants. Spearmint is a hardy perennial up to USDA plant hardiness Zone 5 that grows best in partial shade with well-draining, rich, moist soil and a pH of 6.5 to 7. Mint is easiest to grow from plants, but you can sow seed once the ground has warmed in the spring. Keep seeds moist until they germinate and thin plants to 1 foot apart. Spearmint, once planted takes off quickly and can take over quickly as well. Many people question how to plant spearmint due to its invasive nature. Some cautious gardeners grow spearmint in hanging baskets or containers to avoid having to pull out runners constantly. Another way to plant spearmint if you want it in the garden is to plant it in a 5-gallon pot with the bottom cut out. This will help keep the runners of growing spearmint plants from invading other spots of your garden.
Care of Spearmint
As with most types of mint, the care of spearmint is easy. Mint in the garden should be mulched annually to keep the roots cool and moist. Potted mint does best when fertilized monthly during the growing season with a liquid fertilizer. Divide plants every two years to keep them healthy. Prune potted plants regularly to keep neat and tidy. If you live in an area with very cold winters, it is best to bring potted spearmint indoors and place in a sunny window. Knowing how to plant spearmint correctly in the garden will provide you with years of lasting beauty and usefulness.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Leaves of chocolate mint plants add versatility to drinks, desserts and garnishes for a variety of dishes you prepare in the kitchen. Growing chocolate mint, both indoors and outside, is an easy way to always have a fresh supply of the chocolate herb plant. Chocolate mint plants (Mentha x piperita ‘Chocolate’) are attractive, fragrant and easy to grow. As with most square-stemmed members of the mint family, growing chocolate mint can take over the area in which it is planted in the ground, readily and quickly. When learning how to care for chocolate mint, know that it must be contained in some way to avoid the rapid spread of the chocolate herb plant. Horror stories of the escape of uncontained chocolate mint are shared by gardeners who planted it directly in the ground, only for it to take over the bed or spread to a neighbor’s property where it must then be removed.
How to Grow and Harvest Chocolate Mint
Growing chocolate mint in containers is easy. Regular pinching and division keeps chocolate mint healthy, full and under control. Mature brownish red stems and attractive serrated leaves become full after pinching out the tips. Use the leaves in your dishes and drinks. Longer stems of the chocolate herb plant can be clipped for rooting more plants. Learning how to grow and harvest chocolate mint provides a regular supply of the fragrant leaves, which may be used fresh or dried for later use. Growing chocolate mint outside in pots that can be placed in full to partial sun is easy. Once you have a cutting rooted, you likely won’t need to get another plant. Yearly division of the contents of the pot results in an abundance of plants for you or to share with friends and family so that everyone has a container of the useful chocolate herb plant.
If you want to grow the chocolate herb plant in a garden with other herbs, plant the entire container and sink it into the ground. Don’t remove the bottom of the pot. Roots of the growing chocolate mint plant may escape through drainage holes, but you can remove the container once in awhile and clip off any roots that grow from drainage holes. You can also include it in a chocolate themed garden with other chocolate plants. Learning how to care for chocolate mint is simple too. Water and fertilize occasionally and grow in full sun for maximum flavor. Harvest throughout the growing season, unless you want the plant to display its attractive pink flowers in late spring to midsummer. If so, clip after flowering. Root new cuttings in late summer to bring inside for the winter.
How to Grow and Harvest Chocolate Mint
Growing chocolate mint in containers is easy. Regular pinching and division keeps chocolate mint healthy, full and under control. Mature brownish red stems and attractive serrated leaves become full after pinching out the tips. Use the leaves in your dishes and drinks. Longer stems of the chocolate herb plant can be clipped for rooting more plants. Learning how to grow and harvest chocolate mint provides a regular supply of the fragrant leaves, which may be used fresh or dried for later use. Growing chocolate mint outside in pots that can be placed in full to partial sun is easy. Once you have a cutting rooted, you likely won’t need to get another plant. Yearly division of the contents of the pot results in an abundance of plants for you or to share with friends and family so that everyone has a container of the useful chocolate herb plant.
If you want to grow the chocolate herb plant in a garden with other herbs, plant the entire container and sink it into the ground. Don’t remove the bottom of the pot. Roots of the growing chocolate mint plant may escape through drainage holes, but you can remove the container once in awhile and clip off any roots that grow from drainage holes. You can also include it in a chocolate themed garden with other chocolate plants. Learning how to care for chocolate mint is simple too. Water and fertilize occasionally and grow in full sun for maximum flavor. Harvest throughout the growing season, unless you want the plant to display its attractive pink flowers in late spring to midsummer. If so, clip after flowering. Root new cuttings in late summer to bring inside for the winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
A member of the family Lamiaceae, red raripila mint plants (Mentha x smithiana) are hybrid plants composed of the corn mint (Mentha arvensis), watermint (Mentha aquatica), and spearmint (Mentha spicata). More commonly used in Northern and Central Europe, acquiring red raripila plants may require a bit more research, as other mint varieties are more popular in the United States and Canada, but well worth the effort for its lovely green/red leaves with red stems.
Red Raripila Mint Information
Pollinated and extremely popular to bees and butterflies makes the red raripila mint extremely susceptible to cross hybridization. Growing red raripila mint plants are, however, not attractive to deer, making them a nice addition to rural landscapes. Red raripila mint is also a great companion plant to vegetable crops such as cabbages and tomatoes as they act as a deterrent to troublesome insect pests.
As mentioned, it may be a bit more of a challenge to obtain these plants in North America, but if one does obtain seed, be aware that this little hybrid is generally sterile and thus, the seed will usually not breed true. If, however, seed is acquired, it may be sown in the spring in a cold frame and has a relatively quick germination. Once the red raripila plants attain some size, transplant them to pots or other restrictive growing area. Red raripila mint is easily divisible and should be done in spring or fall, although the plant is fairly tolerant of division most any time of the year. Any portion of the root is capable of creating a new plant and will establish rapidly with a limited amount of fuss.
Care of Red Raripila Mint
Care of red raripila plants, as for all mint varieties, is fairly simple. Like all mint plants, red raripila plants are aggressive spreaders once established and should be planted either in pots or a confined area. Easy to grow, this little perennial succeeds in most any type of soil as long as it is not too arid, including heavily clay laden soils. Care of red raripila mint includes a slightly acidic soil. Growing red raripila mint plants may be sown in areas of sun to partial shade, although to boost the production of essential oils, full sun exposure is most advantageous.
How to Use Red Raripila Mints
Like most mint varieties, red raripila mint is excellent brewed as a tea and can be used fresh or dried. The flavor of red raripila mint is reminiscent of spearmint and has the resulting refreshing taste and similarity of use. The essential oils derived from red raripila mint plants are used in everything from ice cream to beverages and are extremely popular in Northern and Central Europe and down under in Australia to flavor fresh peas or mint jelly for the lamb and mutton dishes popular in those countries. These essential oils are also offensive to rats and mice, so it has also been spread in granaries and other areas of grain storage to discourage the rodent population. Medicinal uses have been associated with this plant as well. The oils from red raripila mint are thought to aid in digestive distress and are often used for their antiseptic properties. As with many mint species, red raripila has been used in the treatment of headaches, fevers, digestive distress and other minor medical issues. Chewing on the leaves will also, like spearmint, freshen one’s breath.
Like all other members of the mint family, red raripila mint plants’ essential oils should be limited or avoided by pregnant women as the ingestion has been known to trigger miscarriages.
Red Raripila Mint Information
Pollinated and extremely popular to bees and butterflies makes the red raripila mint extremely susceptible to cross hybridization. Growing red raripila mint plants are, however, not attractive to deer, making them a nice addition to rural landscapes. Red raripila mint is also a great companion plant to vegetable crops such as cabbages and tomatoes as they act as a deterrent to troublesome insect pests.
As mentioned, it may be a bit more of a challenge to obtain these plants in North America, but if one does obtain seed, be aware that this little hybrid is generally sterile and thus, the seed will usually not breed true. If, however, seed is acquired, it may be sown in the spring in a cold frame and has a relatively quick germination. Once the red raripila plants attain some size, transplant them to pots or other restrictive growing area. Red raripila mint is easily divisible and should be done in spring or fall, although the plant is fairly tolerant of division most any time of the year. Any portion of the root is capable of creating a new plant and will establish rapidly with a limited amount of fuss.
Care of Red Raripila Mint
Care of red raripila plants, as for all mint varieties, is fairly simple. Like all mint plants, red raripila plants are aggressive spreaders once established and should be planted either in pots or a confined area. Easy to grow, this little perennial succeeds in most any type of soil as long as it is not too arid, including heavily clay laden soils. Care of red raripila mint includes a slightly acidic soil. Growing red raripila mint plants may be sown in areas of sun to partial shade, although to boost the production of essential oils, full sun exposure is most advantageous.
How to Use Red Raripila Mints
Like most mint varieties, red raripila mint is excellent brewed as a tea and can be used fresh or dried. The flavor of red raripila mint is reminiscent of spearmint and has the resulting refreshing taste and similarity of use. The essential oils derived from red raripila mint plants are used in everything from ice cream to beverages and are extremely popular in Northern and Central Europe and down under in Australia to flavor fresh peas or mint jelly for the lamb and mutton dishes popular in those countries. These essential oils are also offensive to rats and mice, so it has also been spread in granaries and other areas of grain storage to discourage the rodent population. Medicinal uses have been associated with this plant as well. The oils from red raripila mint are thought to aid in digestive distress and are often used for their antiseptic properties. As with many mint species, red raripila has been used in the treatment of headaches, fevers, digestive distress and other minor medical issues. Chewing on the leaves will also, like spearmint, freshen one’s breath.
Like all other members of the mint family, red raripila mint plants’ essential oils should be limited or avoided by pregnant women as the ingestion has been known to trigger miscarriages.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
A kitchen garden feels empty without a decent collection of herbs, including many varieties of mint. These hardy plants are capable of producing a wide range of flavors for drinks and bakery goods and require little care . For keepers of mint, rust fungus is one of a just a few serious diseases to bear in mind. Keep reading for information on mint rust symptoms and how to treat this disease.
What is Mint Rust Fungus?
Mint rust is caused by a fungus, Puccinia menthae, which only infects plants in the mint family, especially spearmint and peppermint. It is encouraged by overhead irrigation, which frequently allows water to stand on plant leaves long enough for the fungal spores to germinate. Closely planted mints, or those that need to be thinned, are at a heightened risk due to increased humidity around the plants.
What Does Mint Rust Look Like?
Rust on mint plants looks similar to other rusts in later stages, with orange to rust-colored spots covering the undersides of lower leaves in early spring. Mint rust symptoms may progress, manifesting as leaves that turn completely brown and drop from affected plants. In late summer and early fall, when these dropped leaves regrow, darker spots often appear instead. The very early stages of mint rust may appear as white bumps on mint leaves.
Controlling Mint Rust
There are many ways to control mint rust, depending on your preferred method of management. Organic gardeners and those looking to preserve beneficial insects may want to destroy infected mint plants or remove infected leaves if the disease is mild. Any rust-infected tissues should be immediately burned or double bagged, and all plant debris kept away from your mint to discourage re-infestation. Thinning your mint stand will allow better air circulation that can dry out rust fungus without the use of fungicide. Changing the way you water will slow or even stop rust fungus; always water mint at the base, never on the leaves, and do it early in the day so water will evaporate quickly. Potted mints shoved into corners should be brought away from walls and fences.
Fungicidal Treatments for Rust on Mint Plants
When cultural modifications fail, you may want to consider chemical control. You’ll have to wait a number of days, anywhere from a week to about three months to harvest leaves after the final treatment, so only apply fungicide when absolutely necessary. Give cultural controls a week or more to work before moving to stronger control methods. Azoxystrobin can be applied to infested leaves and only requires a week between treatment and harvest, though it may work more effectively when rotated with myclobutanil or propiconazole (both require a month before safe harvest). Ornamental mints can be treated with chlorothalonil; the 80-day wait to harvest won’t render the plants useless.
What is Mint Rust Fungus?
Mint rust is caused by a fungus, Puccinia menthae, which only infects plants in the mint family, especially spearmint and peppermint. It is encouraged by overhead irrigation, which frequently allows water to stand on plant leaves long enough for the fungal spores to germinate. Closely planted mints, or those that need to be thinned, are at a heightened risk due to increased humidity around the plants.
What Does Mint Rust Look Like?
Rust on mint plants looks similar to other rusts in later stages, with orange to rust-colored spots covering the undersides of lower leaves in early spring. Mint rust symptoms may progress, manifesting as leaves that turn completely brown and drop from affected plants. In late summer and early fall, when these dropped leaves regrow, darker spots often appear instead. The very early stages of mint rust may appear as white bumps on mint leaves.
Controlling Mint Rust
There are many ways to control mint rust, depending on your preferred method of management. Organic gardeners and those looking to preserve beneficial insects may want to destroy infected mint plants or remove infected leaves if the disease is mild. Any rust-infected tissues should be immediately burned or double bagged, and all plant debris kept away from your mint to discourage re-infestation. Thinning your mint stand will allow better air circulation that can dry out rust fungus without the use of fungicide. Changing the way you water will slow or even stop rust fungus; always water mint at the base, never on the leaves, and do it early in the day so water will evaporate quickly. Potted mints shoved into corners should be brought away from walls and fences.
Fungicidal Treatments for Rust on Mint Plants
When cultural modifications fail, you may want to consider chemical control. You’ll have to wait a number of days, anywhere from a week to about three months to harvest leaves after the final treatment, so only apply fungicide when absolutely necessary. Give cultural controls a week or more to work before moving to stronger control methods. Azoxystrobin can be applied to infested leaves and only requires a week between treatment and harvest, though it may work more effectively when rotated with myclobutanil or propiconazole (both require a month before safe harvest). Ornamental mints can be treated with chlorothalonil; the 80-day wait to harvest won’t render the plants useless.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Mints are aromatic garden plants that have so many culinary and medicinal uses; everyone loves them. There are as many flavors of mint as there is ice cream. Varieties include chocolate, banana, apple, spearmint, peppermint, orange, ginger, and the ever popular lavender mint plants. Mints are attractive plants and make delightful additions to teas, soups, cold drinks, salads and desserts. Lavender mint has delicate purple flowers and is hardy in USDA growing zones 3 to 7.
Growing Lavender Mint
Growing lavender mint (Mentha piperita ‘Lavendula’) isn’t difficult, as mint is generally not fussy and a perfect starter plant for those just getting into gardening. Like peppermint, lavender mint plants have a red stem and delicious floral overtones.
One caveat that must be mentioned about growing any type of mint is its invasive nature. Once mint gets started, it runs like a freight train throughout the garden. It is best to contain lavender mint in a fairly shallow, wide pot, for best results. It’s also a good idea not to combine different types of mints together but give them each their own space. You can also put mint in large tin cans or buckets with open bottoms and bury them in the garden to keep plants contained. However, if you have a large open space and require a perennial groundcover, lavender mint is a good choice, as it tolerates some shade and will grow well under trees and shrubs as long as it gets a little sun daily. Although mints are not particular about the soil, if you grow it in a pot, be sure to use a loamy soil that drains well.
Care of Lavender Mint
Mint plants are a breeze to care for and are often called the perfect lazy gardener’s companion. Care of a lavender mint plant in a pot is minimal as long as you make sure that the soil does not become overly dry. Keep the soil evenly moist and offer more water during especially dry times. A layer of mulch helps mint plants in the ground retain moisture. Mint can be cut back in the fall and mulched for overwintering. To share mint, dig and divide plants or start new plants from leaf cuttings.
How to Use Lavender Mint
Like other mints, the lavender mint family is remarkably versatile. This mint is equally at home in the kitchen as it is in the medicine cabinet. Most often used dry for potpourris and teas, lavender mint is also a key ingredient in a number of personal care products including lip balms, shampoos and creams. Add a sprig or two of lavender mint to your salads, pastas or soups for a taste enhancer. Fresh lavender mint is also a pleasant addition to a glass of cold lemonade or on top of a dish of fresh strawberries.
Growing Lavender Mint
Growing lavender mint (Mentha piperita ‘Lavendula’) isn’t difficult, as mint is generally not fussy and a perfect starter plant for those just getting into gardening. Like peppermint, lavender mint plants have a red stem and delicious floral overtones.
One caveat that must be mentioned about growing any type of mint is its invasive nature. Once mint gets started, it runs like a freight train throughout the garden. It is best to contain lavender mint in a fairly shallow, wide pot, for best results. It’s also a good idea not to combine different types of mints together but give them each their own space. You can also put mint in large tin cans or buckets with open bottoms and bury them in the garden to keep plants contained. However, if you have a large open space and require a perennial groundcover, lavender mint is a good choice, as it tolerates some shade and will grow well under trees and shrubs as long as it gets a little sun daily. Although mints are not particular about the soil, if you grow it in a pot, be sure to use a loamy soil that drains well.
Care of Lavender Mint
Mint plants are a breeze to care for and are often called the perfect lazy gardener’s companion. Care of a lavender mint plant in a pot is minimal as long as you make sure that the soil does not become overly dry. Keep the soil evenly moist and offer more water during especially dry times. A layer of mulch helps mint plants in the ground retain moisture. Mint can be cut back in the fall and mulched for overwintering. To share mint, dig and divide plants or start new plants from leaf cuttings.
How to Use Lavender Mint
Like other mints, the lavender mint family is remarkably versatile. This mint is equally at home in the kitchen as it is in the medicine cabinet. Most often used dry for potpourris and teas, lavender mint is also a key ingredient in a number of personal care products including lip balms, shampoos and creams. Add a sprig or two of lavender mint to your salads, pastas or soups for a taste enhancer. Fresh lavender mint is also a pleasant addition to a glass of cold lemonade or on top of a dish of fresh strawberries.
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