文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Horsetail (Equisetum arvense) may not be favored by all, but to some this plant is treasured. Horsetail herb uses are plentiful and caring for horsetail plants in the herb garden is easy, provided you keep it from jumping ship and overtaking other areas of the garden. Keep reading to learn how to grow horsetail herbs.
Horsetail Plant Info
To some people it is a nuisance; to others it is an interesting and ancient herb that has earned its rightful place in history, the medicine closet and beauty products. Growing where other plants dare not, horsetail plant is a member of the Equisetum family and is closely related to ferns. Like ferns, horsetail plants reproduce via spores and they have a very deep rhizome system that can tunnel up to 3 feet under the soil.
Within the Equisetum family, there are two large groups: horsetails and scouring rushes. Horsetails have branches and a bushy appearance and scouring rushes have no branches. Both plants are without true leaves and use chlorophyll in their stems for photosynthesis. Horsetail is also known by a number of other names, including mare’s tail, horse pipes, snake grass and joint grass. Horsetail plant info suggests that it has earned its name for its jointed or segmented appearance and bristle-like texture, which is similar to a horse’s tail.
Horsetail Herb Uses
Horsetail is a very valuable herb due to its high content of silicon used in the treatment of osteoporosis. Horsetail has also been used to lower blood pressure, as a diuretic, to strengthen brittle nails, stop bleeding gums, relieve sore throats and as a topical treatment of burns and wounds. As with any herb, it is always best to consult a professional first. It can also be used as a substitute for a scouring pad in the kitchen by bundling several stems together and taking advantage of the tough and rough texture on the stems.
How to Grow Horsetail
Horsetail herb growing isn’t difficult if you provide the right conditions. Horsetail is fond of wet or boggy areas and thrives in poor soil, making it a perfect choice for areas in the landscape where other plants fail to thrive. Because it tends to spread rapidly, it’s best to give horsetail plenty of room to spread. The plants can also be kept in bounds by sinking them in bottomless containers. In fact, if you have limited space, you can grow horsetail in a container. Plants prefer a half day of sun and high heat and humidity. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 – 10, horsetail is easy to grow. It’s best to start plants from seed six weeks before the last frost and transplant outside in early spring. Caring for horsetail is easy once planted. Soil should remain wet at all times. If you are growing in a container, keep an eye on moisture levels and water accordingly. Keep old stems pruned for best performance.
Harvesting Horsetail Herbs
Horsetail herb harvesting is done in the summer. Pick stems, discarding any discolored ones, and let them dry in a cool, dark place. Once dry, the stem can be ground into a powder and stored in an airtight container for up to one year, or use for ornamental purposes. Young shoots can also be eaten like asparagus.
Horsetail Plant Info
To some people it is a nuisance; to others it is an interesting and ancient herb that has earned its rightful place in history, the medicine closet and beauty products. Growing where other plants dare not, horsetail plant is a member of the Equisetum family and is closely related to ferns. Like ferns, horsetail plants reproduce via spores and they have a very deep rhizome system that can tunnel up to 3 feet under the soil.
Within the Equisetum family, there are two large groups: horsetails and scouring rushes. Horsetails have branches and a bushy appearance and scouring rushes have no branches. Both plants are without true leaves and use chlorophyll in their stems for photosynthesis. Horsetail is also known by a number of other names, including mare’s tail, horse pipes, snake grass and joint grass. Horsetail plant info suggests that it has earned its name for its jointed or segmented appearance and bristle-like texture, which is similar to a horse’s tail.
Horsetail Herb Uses
Horsetail is a very valuable herb due to its high content of silicon used in the treatment of osteoporosis. Horsetail has also been used to lower blood pressure, as a diuretic, to strengthen brittle nails, stop bleeding gums, relieve sore throats and as a topical treatment of burns and wounds. As with any herb, it is always best to consult a professional first. It can also be used as a substitute for a scouring pad in the kitchen by bundling several stems together and taking advantage of the tough and rough texture on the stems.
How to Grow Horsetail
Horsetail herb growing isn’t difficult if you provide the right conditions. Horsetail is fond of wet or boggy areas and thrives in poor soil, making it a perfect choice for areas in the landscape where other plants fail to thrive. Because it tends to spread rapidly, it’s best to give horsetail plenty of room to spread. The plants can also be kept in bounds by sinking them in bottomless containers. In fact, if you have limited space, you can grow horsetail in a container. Plants prefer a half day of sun and high heat and humidity. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 – 10, horsetail is easy to grow. It’s best to start plants from seed six weeks before the last frost and transplant outside in early spring. Caring for horsetail is easy once planted. Soil should remain wet at all times. If you are growing in a container, keep an eye on moisture levels and water accordingly. Keep old stems pruned for best performance.
Harvesting Horsetail Herbs
Horsetail herb harvesting is done in the summer. Pick stems, discarding any discolored ones, and let them dry in a cool, dark place. Once dry, the stem can be ground into a powder and stored in an airtight container for up to one year, or use for ornamental purposes. Young shoots can also be eaten like asparagus.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Many herb plants come from the Mediterranean and as such are drought, soil and exposure tolerant. Creeping germander is one of those. Germander herb plants are members of the Lamiaceae or Mint family, which includes lavender and salvia. This is a large genus of evergreens, from ground covers to shrubs to sub shrubs. Creeping germander (Teucrium canadense) is a woody, perennial ground cover varietal that spreads through underground rhizomes and reaches to only about 12 to 18 inches tall and spreading 2 feet across. Germander herb plants bloom lavender-hued flowers in the spring borne off of green serrated foliage.
Germander Growing
The adaptable germander ground cover isn’t particularly picky about its location. This herb can be grown in full sun to part shade, in hot climates, or poor and rocky soil. Ideally, however, creeping germander prefers well drained soil (pH of 6.3), although clay will work in a pinch. You can grow these little plants in USDA zones 5-10. Because of its ability to tolerate less than ideal conditions, including drought, creeping germander makes an ideal xeriscape specimen. If you live in a cooler climate, mulch around the plants prior to fall frosts.
How to Use Germander Ground Cover
All of the Teucriums are low maintenance plants and are, therefore, perfect for planting in difficult areas of the garden. They all also react beautifully to pruning and can be shaped easily into borders or low hedges, used in knot gardens or among other herbs or in a rockery. Their easygoing care is just one reason to plant creeping germander; they are deer resistant as well!
Varieties of Low Growing Germanders
Teucrium canadense is just one of several germanders with a creeping habitat. A little easier to find is T. chamaedrys, or wall germander, with a short mounding form up to 1 1/2 feet tall with pinkish purple blooms and oak leaf shaped foliage. Its name derives from the Greek ‘chamai’ for ground and ‘drus’ meaning oak and is indeed a germander found growing wild in Greece and Syria. T.cossoni majoricum, or fruity germander, is a slower growing spreading perennial that is non-invasive with rosy lavender flowers. Flowers are heaviest in the spring but continue to bloom in lesser numbers until fall, which makes the pollinators very happy. Fruity germander has a strong aromatic scent when bruised and does well among rock gardens.
Further Information on Creeping Germander
Germander can be propagated via seed and takes about 30 days to germinate, or you may also use cuttings in the spring and/or divide in the fall. Plants should be spaced 6 inches apart for a hedge with the addition of some organic matter worked into the soil. Spider mite infestations are a hazard and can be eradicated with a stream of water or an insecticidal soap.
Germander Growing
The adaptable germander ground cover isn’t particularly picky about its location. This herb can be grown in full sun to part shade, in hot climates, or poor and rocky soil. Ideally, however, creeping germander prefers well drained soil (pH of 6.3), although clay will work in a pinch. You can grow these little plants in USDA zones 5-10. Because of its ability to tolerate less than ideal conditions, including drought, creeping germander makes an ideal xeriscape specimen. If you live in a cooler climate, mulch around the plants prior to fall frosts.
How to Use Germander Ground Cover
All of the Teucriums are low maintenance plants and are, therefore, perfect for planting in difficult areas of the garden. They all also react beautifully to pruning and can be shaped easily into borders or low hedges, used in knot gardens or among other herbs or in a rockery. Their easygoing care is just one reason to plant creeping germander; they are deer resistant as well!
Varieties of Low Growing Germanders
Teucrium canadense is just one of several germanders with a creeping habitat. A little easier to find is T. chamaedrys, or wall germander, with a short mounding form up to 1 1/2 feet tall with pinkish purple blooms and oak leaf shaped foliage. Its name derives from the Greek ‘chamai’ for ground and ‘drus’ meaning oak and is indeed a germander found growing wild in Greece and Syria. T.cossoni majoricum, or fruity germander, is a slower growing spreading perennial that is non-invasive with rosy lavender flowers. Flowers are heaviest in the spring but continue to bloom in lesser numbers until fall, which makes the pollinators very happy. Fruity germander has a strong aromatic scent when bruised and does well among rock gardens.
Further Information on Creeping Germander
Germander can be propagated via seed and takes about 30 days to germinate, or you may also use cuttings in the spring and/or divide in the fall. Plants should be spaced 6 inches apart for a hedge with the addition of some organic matter worked into the soil. Spider mite infestations are a hazard and can be eradicated with a stream of water or an insecticidal soap.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
There is a large genus of evergreen shrubs and sub shrubs known as Teucrium, whose members are low maintenance. Members of the Lamiaceae or mint family, which also includes lavender and salvia, wood sage plants, also referred to as American germander, are one such member. So, what other info about wood sage can we uncover and how to grow American germander?
Info about Wood Sage
Wood sage (Teucrium canadense) goes by many other names too, including Canadian germander, germander wood sage and wood sage wildflower. This germander is a perennial herb native to many areas of North America.
Wood sage plants form a low creeping ground cover that is native to the United States. Growing germander wood sage can often be found in shaded to partially shaded, moist areas such as along stream banks, lake shores, marshes, prairies, ditches and pastures. Wood sage wildflowers bloom pinkish purple in the spring through late summer from 4-inch tufts of soft green leaves with fluted or ruffled edges. Blossoms are about a foot in height and are majestic swaying atop a sea of foliage. The flowers make lovely additions to cut flower arrangements. The plant spreads rapaciously along rhizomes. Perfect for covering less than habitable areas of the property, but otherwise must be kept in check. Wood sage was also once used to flavor beer before hops became in vogue.
How to Grow American Germander
Wood sage wildflowers are low maintenance, easy to grow native plants. They prefer areas with more moisture or shallow, submerged soils. They are tolerant of a variety of soil, from sandy, loam, clay, limestone and combinations thereof, although they prefer fertile, loamy soil. Although American germander can tolerate poorly drained conditions, it cannot tolerate drought. Once established, growing germander wood sage really only needs consistent moisture.
As mentioned, it will aggressively spread, so either plant it in an area that you wish to be filled in or be prepared to be aggressive yourself to retard its spread. It is susceptible to foliar disease but less so than other mint family members, such as Bergamot. Plant clumps of wood sage in part shade. American germander is an aromatic great in the perennial garden (if you manage it), or as a lovely carpeting ground cover. Deer find it uninteresting, but wood sage wildflowers are a big hit with the butterflies.
Info about Wood Sage
Wood sage (Teucrium canadense) goes by many other names too, including Canadian germander, germander wood sage and wood sage wildflower. This germander is a perennial herb native to many areas of North America.
Wood sage plants form a low creeping ground cover that is native to the United States. Growing germander wood sage can often be found in shaded to partially shaded, moist areas such as along stream banks, lake shores, marshes, prairies, ditches and pastures. Wood sage wildflowers bloom pinkish purple in the spring through late summer from 4-inch tufts of soft green leaves with fluted or ruffled edges. Blossoms are about a foot in height and are majestic swaying atop a sea of foliage. The flowers make lovely additions to cut flower arrangements. The plant spreads rapaciously along rhizomes. Perfect for covering less than habitable areas of the property, but otherwise must be kept in check. Wood sage was also once used to flavor beer before hops became in vogue.
How to Grow American Germander
Wood sage wildflowers are low maintenance, easy to grow native plants. They prefer areas with more moisture or shallow, submerged soils. They are tolerant of a variety of soil, from sandy, loam, clay, limestone and combinations thereof, although they prefer fertile, loamy soil. Although American germander can tolerate poorly drained conditions, it cannot tolerate drought. Once established, growing germander wood sage really only needs consistent moisture.
As mentioned, it will aggressively spread, so either plant it in an area that you wish to be filled in or be prepared to be aggressive yourself to retard its spread. It is susceptible to foliar disease but less so than other mint family members, such as Bergamot. Plant clumps of wood sage in part shade. American germander is an aromatic great in the perennial garden (if you manage it), or as a lovely carpeting ground cover. Deer find it uninteresting, but wood sage wildflowers are a big hit with the butterflies.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Known by a multitude of names depending on where it’s cultivated, Ensete false banana plants are an important food crop in many parts of Africa. Ensete ventricosum cultivation can be found in the countries of Ethiopia, Malawi, throughout South Africa, Kenya and Zimbabwe. Let’s learn more about false banana plants.
What is False Banana?
A valuable food crop, Ensete ventricosum cultivation provides more food per square meter than any other cereal. Known as “false banana,” Ensete false banana plants look just like their namesakes, only larger (12 meters high), with leaves that are more erect, and inedible fruit. The large leaves are lance shaped, arrayed in a spiral and are bright green struck with a red midrib. The “trunk” of Ensete false banana plant is really three separate sections.
So what is false banana used for? Inside this meter-thick trunk or “pseudo-stem” lays the main product of starchy pith, which is pulped and then fermented while buried underground for three to six months. The resulting product is called “kocho,” which is a bit like heavy bread and is eaten with milk, cheese, cabbage, meat and or coffee. The resultant Ensete false banana plants provide not only food, but fiber for making ropes and mats. False banana also has medicinal uses in the healing of wounds and bone breaks, enabling them to heal more quickly.
Additional Information About False Banana
This traditional staple crop is highly drought resistant, and in fact, can live up to seven years without water. This provides a reliable food source for the people and ensures no famine period during the drought. Ensete takes four to five years to reach maturation; therefore, plantings are staggered to maintain an available harvest for each season. While wild Ensete is produced from seed propagation, Ensete ventricosum cultivation occurs from suckers, with up to 400 suckers produced from one mother plant. These plants are cultivated in a mixed system interspersing grains like wheat and barley or sorghum, coffee and animals with the Ensete ventricosum cultivation.
Ensete’s Role in Sustainable Farming
Ensete acts as a host plant to such crops as coffee. Coffee plants are planted in Ensete’s shade and are nurtured by the vast water reservoir of its fibrous torso. This makes for a symbiotic relationship; a win/win for the farmer of a food crop and cash crop in a sustainable manner. Although a traditional food plant in many parts of Africa, not every culture there cultivates it. Its introduction into more of these areas is extremely important and may be the key to nutritional security, engender rural development and support sustainable land use. As a transitional crop replacing such environmentally damaging species as Eucalyptus, the Ensete plant is seen as a great boon. Proper nutrition is necessary and has been shown to foster higher levels of education, health of course, and general prosperity.
What is False Banana?
A valuable food crop, Ensete ventricosum cultivation provides more food per square meter than any other cereal. Known as “false banana,” Ensete false banana plants look just like their namesakes, only larger (12 meters high), with leaves that are more erect, and inedible fruit. The large leaves are lance shaped, arrayed in a spiral and are bright green struck with a red midrib. The “trunk” of Ensete false banana plant is really three separate sections.
So what is false banana used for? Inside this meter-thick trunk or “pseudo-stem” lays the main product of starchy pith, which is pulped and then fermented while buried underground for three to six months. The resulting product is called “kocho,” which is a bit like heavy bread and is eaten with milk, cheese, cabbage, meat and or coffee. The resultant Ensete false banana plants provide not only food, but fiber for making ropes and mats. False banana also has medicinal uses in the healing of wounds and bone breaks, enabling them to heal more quickly.
Additional Information About False Banana
This traditional staple crop is highly drought resistant, and in fact, can live up to seven years without water. This provides a reliable food source for the people and ensures no famine period during the drought. Ensete takes four to five years to reach maturation; therefore, plantings are staggered to maintain an available harvest for each season. While wild Ensete is produced from seed propagation, Ensete ventricosum cultivation occurs from suckers, with up to 400 suckers produced from one mother plant. These plants are cultivated in a mixed system interspersing grains like wheat and barley or sorghum, coffee and animals with the Ensete ventricosum cultivation.
Ensete’s Role in Sustainable Farming
Ensete acts as a host plant to such crops as coffee. Coffee plants are planted in Ensete’s shade and are nurtured by the vast water reservoir of its fibrous torso. This makes for a symbiotic relationship; a win/win for the farmer of a food crop and cash crop in a sustainable manner. Although a traditional food plant in many parts of Africa, not every culture there cultivates it. Its introduction into more of these areas is extremely important and may be the key to nutritional security, engender rural development and support sustainable land use. As a transitional crop replacing such environmentally damaging species as Eucalyptus, the Ensete plant is seen as a great boon. Proper nutrition is necessary and has been shown to foster higher levels of education, health of course, and general prosperity.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Herbs are the perfect plants to grow in containers, and dill is no exception. It’s beautiful, it’s tasty, and in late summer it produces fantastic yellow flowers. Having it in a container near or even in your kitchen is a great way to ensure you get the most out of cooking with it. But how do you grow potted dill plants? Keep reading to learn more about growing dill in containers and care of dill in pots.
Potted Dill Plant Care
The most important thing to keep in mind when growing dill in containers is the depth of your containers. Dill grows a long tap root, and any container shallower than 12 inches won’t provide enough space for it. That being said, your container doesn’t need to be extremely deep. Dill is an annual, so it doesn’t need extra space to build up a big root system over the years. One to two feet deep should be plenty. You can sow dill seeds directly into your container. Fill it up with any soilless potting mix, making sure there are drainage holes in the bottom, first. Dill will grow in most types of soil, though it prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface, then cover them with a very light layer of potting mix.
Potted dill plants need 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day and warm temperatures above 60 degrees F. (15 C.) to sprout. If all danger of frost has passed, you can keep your potted dill plants outside, but if it’s still early spring, you should keep them indoors in a sunny window or under a grow light. Keep the soil moist by misting often. Once the seedlings are a few inches high, thin to one or two per pot and care for as you normally would out in the garden.
Potted Dill Plant Care
The most important thing to keep in mind when growing dill in containers is the depth of your containers. Dill grows a long tap root, and any container shallower than 12 inches won’t provide enough space for it. That being said, your container doesn’t need to be extremely deep. Dill is an annual, so it doesn’t need extra space to build up a big root system over the years. One to two feet deep should be plenty. You can sow dill seeds directly into your container. Fill it up with any soilless potting mix, making sure there are drainage holes in the bottom, first. Dill will grow in most types of soil, though it prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface, then cover them with a very light layer of potting mix.
Potted dill plants need 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day and warm temperatures above 60 degrees F. (15 C.) to sprout. If all danger of frost has passed, you can keep your potted dill plants outside, but if it’s still early spring, you should keep them indoors in a sunny window or under a grow light. Keep the soil moist by misting often. Once the seedlings are a few inches high, thin to one or two per pot and care for as you normally would out in the garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Companion planting is a centuries-old technique that by locating various plants in close proximity, creates conditions that enhance growing conditions by repelling pests, attracting pollinators, and making the best use of available space. When it comes to companion plants for dill, most of the following suggestions have not been tested in scientific labs, but are highly recommended by experienced gardeners – often by trial and error.
Plants That Grow Near Dill
If you’re wondering what to plant with dill, experiment and see what works best in your garden. Here are some suggested dill companion plants – and a few things that AREN’T believed to be good dill plant companions.
Dill is a good neighbor and a useful plant, valued for its ability to draw beneficial insects to the garden such as:
Hoverflies
Parasitic wasps
Ladybugs
Praying mantis
Honeybees
Butterflies
Dill also does a good at discouraging various unwanted pests, including cabbage loopers, aphids and spider mites.
Asparagus
Corn
Cucumbers
Onion
Lettuce
Vegetables in the cabbage family (Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, broccoli, etc.)
Basil
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Other poor dill companion plants include:
Peppers
Potatoes
Eggplant
Cilantro
Lavender
Results are mixed when it comes to planting dill near tomatoes. Young dill plants attract pollinators, repel certain tomato enemies, and tend to benefit tomato health and growth. However, many gardeners have observed that when mature, dill plants stunt the growth of tomato plants. The answer to this quandary is to prune dill every week so the plant doesn’t bloom. If you want dill to bloom, leave it in place while both plants are young, then relocate dill to another area of your garden before it flowers.
Plants That Grow Near Dill
If you’re wondering what to plant with dill, experiment and see what works best in your garden. Here are some suggested dill companion plants – and a few things that AREN’T believed to be good dill plant companions.
Dill is a good neighbor and a useful plant, valued for its ability to draw beneficial insects to the garden such as:
Hoverflies
Parasitic wasps
Ladybugs
Praying mantis
Honeybees
Butterflies
Dill also does a good at discouraging various unwanted pests, including cabbage loopers, aphids and spider mites.
Asparagus
Corn
Cucumbers
Onion
Lettuce
Vegetables in the cabbage family (Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, broccoli, etc.)
Basil
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Other poor dill companion plants include:
Peppers
Potatoes
Eggplant
Cilantro
Lavender
Results are mixed when it comes to planting dill near tomatoes. Young dill plants attract pollinators, repel certain tomato enemies, and tend to benefit tomato health and growth. However, many gardeners have observed that when mature, dill plants stunt the growth of tomato plants. The answer to this quandary is to prune dill every week so the plant doesn’t bloom. If you want dill to bloom, leave it in place while both plants are young, then relocate dill to another area of your garden before it flowers.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Curry leaf plants are a component of the Indian seasoning called curry. Curry seasoning is a compilation of many herbs and spices, whose flavor can sometimes come from curry leaf plants. Curry leaf herb is a culinary plant whose leaves are used as an aromatic and the fruit of the plant is a component of desserts in some Eastern nations.
About the Curry Leaf Herb
The curry leaf tree (Murraya koenigii) is a small bush or tree that only grows 13 to just under 20 feet in height. The plant is tropical to sub-tropical and produces small fragrant white flowers that become small, black, berry-like fruits. The fruit is edible, but the seed is poisonous and must be removed prior to use. The foliage is the real standout and are arranged alternately on the stem, pinnate and comprised of many leaflets. The aromatic scent is spicy and heady and best when the leaves are fresh.
Growing Curry Leaves
Curry leaf plants may be grown from cuttings or seed. The seed is the pit of the fruit and can either be cleaned or the entire fruit may be sown. Fresh seed shows the greatest rate of germination. Sow the seeds in potting soil and keep them damp but not wet. They will need a warm area of at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 C.) to germinate. Growing curry leaf tree from seed is not an easy task because germination is fickle. Other methods are more consistent. You can also use fresh curry leaves with petiole or stem and start a plant. Treat the leaves as a cutting and insert into a soilless potting medium. Take a piece of stem from the tree that is about 3 inches long and has several leaves. Remove the bottom 1 inch of leaves. Immerse the bare stem into the medium and mist thoroughly. It will root in about three weeks if you keep it warm and moist. Growing curry leaves to produce a new plant is the easiest method of propagation. Growing curry leaf tree in the home garden is only advisable in areas without freezes. Curry leaf plant is frost tender but it can be grown indoors. Plant the tree in a well drained pot with good potting mix and place in a sunny area. Feed it weekly with a diluted solution of seaweed fertilizer and trim the leaves as needed. Watch the plant for mites and scale. Use an insecticidal soap to combat the pests. Curry leaf requires moderately moist soil. Curry leaf care is quite straight forward and even suitable for a beginner.
Using Curry Leaf Herb
Curry leaves have the strongest flavor and aroma when fresh. You can use them in soups, sauces and stews as you would use a bay leaf and fish it out when the leaf has steeped. You can also dry the leaves and crush them for use. Store them in a sealed glass jar out of light and use within a couple of months. Because they lose flavor quickly, growing curry leaf tree is the best way to have a good, constant supply of this flavorful herb.
About the Curry Leaf Herb
The curry leaf tree (Murraya koenigii) is a small bush or tree that only grows 13 to just under 20 feet in height. The plant is tropical to sub-tropical and produces small fragrant white flowers that become small, black, berry-like fruits. The fruit is edible, but the seed is poisonous and must be removed prior to use. The foliage is the real standout and are arranged alternately on the stem, pinnate and comprised of many leaflets. The aromatic scent is spicy and heady and best when the leaves are fresh.
Growing Curry Leaves
Curry leaf plants may be grown from cuttings or seed. The seed is the pit of the fruit and can either be cleaned or the entire fruit may be sown. Fresh seed shows the greatest rate of germination. Sow the seeds in potting soil and keep them damp but not wet. They will need a warm area of at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 C.) to germinate. Growing curry leaf tree from seed is not an easy task because germination is fickle. Other methods are more consistent. You can also use fresh curry leaves with petiole or stem and start a plant. Treat the leaves as a cutting and insert into a soilless potting medium. Take a piece of stem from the tree that is about 3 inches long and has several leaves. Remove the bottom 1 inch of leaves. Immerse the bare stem into the medium and mist thoroughly. It will root in about three weeks if you keep it warm and moist. Growing curry leaves to produce a new plant is the easiest method of propagation. Growing curry leaf tree in the home garden is only advisable in areas without freezes. Curry leaf plant is frost tender but it can be grown indoors. Plant the tree in a well drained pot with good potting mix and place in a sunny area. Feed it weekly with a diluted solution of seaweed fertilizer and trim the leaves as needed. Watch the plant for mites and scale. Use an insecticidal soap to combat the pests. Curry leaf requires moderately moist soil. Curry leaf care is quite straight forward and even suitable for a beginner.
Using Curry Leaf Herb
Curry leaves have the strongest flavor and aroma when fresh. You can use them in soups, sauces and stews as you would use a bay leaf and fish it out when the leaf has steeped. You can also dry the leaves and crush them for use. Store them in a sealed glass jar out of light and use within a couple of months. Because they lose flavor quickly, growing curry leaf tree is the best way to have a good, constant supply of this flavorful herb.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Looking for something unusual to add to your garden? Have I got an extraordinary beauty for you – black cotton plants. Related to the white cotton one thinks of as growing in the South, black cotton plants are also of the genus Gossypium in the Malvaceae (or mallow) family, which includes hollyhock, okra and hibiscus. Intrigued? Read on to find tips on how to grow black cotton, harvest the plant and other care information.
Planting Black Cotton
Black cotton is an herbaceous perennial that is native to sub-Saharan Africa and into Arabia. Like its white cotton plant relative, black cotton (Gossypium herbaceum ‘Nigra’) care requires plenty of sunshine and warm temperatures to produce cotton. Unlike regular cotton, this plant has both leaves and bolls that are dark burgundy/black with pink/burgundy blooms. The cotton itself, however, is white. Plants will grow 24-30 inches in height and 18-24 inches across.
How to Grow Black Cotton
Black cotton specimens are sold at some online nurseries. If you can acquire the seeds, plant 2-3 in a 4-inch peat pot to a depth of ½ to 1 inch. Put the pot in a sunny location and keep the seeds warm (65-68 degrees F. or 18-20 C.). Keep the growing medium slightly damp. Once the seeds germinate, thin out the weakest, keeping only one strong seedling per pot. As the seedling outgrows the pot, cut the bottom out of the peat pot and transplant into a 12-inch diameter pot. Fill in around the seedling with a loam-based potting mix, not a peat based. Put the black cotton outside on days when the temps are over 65 degrees F. (18 C.) and with no rain. As the temps cool, bring the plant back inside. Continue hardening off in this manner for a week or so. Once the plant has matured, black cotton can be grown in either full sun to partial sun.
Black Cotton Care
Planting black cotton in the northern states will undoubtedly require either growing it indoors, or depending upon your region, at the very least protecting it from wind and rain. Do not overwater the plant. Water 2-3 times per week at the base of the plant. Feed with a liquid plant fertilizer that is high in potassium, or use a tomato or rose food per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Harvesting Black Cotton
Large yellow flowers appear in the late spring to late summer followed by the gorgeous burgundy bolls. The eye-catching bolls are lovely dried and added to flower arrangements, or you can harvest the cotton the old-fashioned way. When the flowers wither, the boll forms and, as it matures, cracks open to reveal the fluffy white cotton. Just grasp the cotton with a forefinger and your thumb and gently twist out. Voila! You’ve grown cotton.
Planting Black Cotton
Black cotton is an herbaceous perennial that is native to sub-Saharan Africa and into Arabia. Like its white cotton plant relative, black cotton (Gossypium herbaceum ‘Nigra’) care requires plenty of sunshine and warm temperatures to produce cotton. Unlike regular cotton, this plant has both leaves and bolls that are dark burgundy/black with pink/burgundy blooms. The cotton itself, however, is white. Plants will grow 24-30 inches in height and 18-24 inches across.
How to Grow Black Cotton
Black cotton specimens are sold at some online nurseries. If you can acquire the seeds, plant 2-3 in a 4-inch peat pot to a depth of ½ to 1 inch. Put the pot in a sunny location and keep the seeds warm (65-68 degrees F. or 18-20 C.). Keep the growing medium slightly damp. Once the seeds germinate, thin out the weakest, keeping only one strong seedling per pot. As the seedling outgrows the pot, cut the bottom out of the peat pot and transplant into a 12-inch diameter pot. Fill in around the seedling with a loam-based potting mix, not a peat based. Put the black cotton outside on days when the temps are over 65 degrees F. (18 C.) and with no rain. As the temps cool, bring the plant back inside. Continue hardening off in this manner for a week or so. Once the plant has matured, black cotton can be grown in either full sun to partial sun.
Black Cotton Care
Planting black cotton in the northern states will undoubtedly require either growing it indoors, or depending upon your region, at the very least protecting it from wind and rain. Do not overwater the plant. Water 2-3 times per week at the base of the plant. Feed with a liquid plant fertilizer that is high in potassium, or use a tomato or rose food per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Harvesting Black Cotton
Large yellow flowers appear in the late spring to late summer followed by the gorgeous burgundy bolls. The eye-catching bolls are lovely dried and added to flower arrangements, or you can harvest the cotton the old-fashioned way. When the flowers wither, the boll forms and, as it matures, cracks open to reveal the fluffy white cotton. Just grasp the cotton with a forefinger and your thumb and gently twist out. Voila! You’ve grown cotton.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Cotton plants have flowers that resemble hibiscus and seed pods that you can use in dried arrangements. Your neighbors will ask about this attractive and unique garden plant, and they won’t believe it when you tell them what you’re growing. Find out how to sow cotton seeds in this article.
Cotton Seed Planting
Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.
Cotton Seed Placement
Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches deep. It helps to work an inch or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don’t have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.
How to Plant a Cotton Seed
Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of 3, spacing them 4 inches apart. Cover them with about an inch of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least six inches. You shouldn’t have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.
Cotton Seed Planting
Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.
Cotton Seed Placement
Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches deep. It helps to work an inch or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don’t have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.
How to Plant a Cotton Seed
Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of 3, spacing them 4 inches apart. Cover them with about an inch of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least six inches. You shouldn’t have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Growing comfrey plants in the garden can offer a wide variety of uses. Attractive and beneficial, this plant will add something extra to your medicinal herb arsenal. Let’s learn more about growing this herb in the garden and which comfrey uses are generally employed.
What is Comfrey?
Symphytum officinale, or comfrey herb plant, has a long history of use as a medicinal herb but not as a culinary plant. Otherwise known as knitbone or slippery root, comfrey plants have been used medicinally since 400 BC to stop heavy bleeding and to treat bronchial issues. From the family Boraginaceae, comfrey is a perennial herb with a spreading habit that attains a height of up to 4 feet. This plant is native to Europe and Asia where is thrives in moist, shady locations and bears ½-inch long flowers in May. The leaves of the comfrey are deep green in color, hairy and 10 inches or so in length.
Growing Comfrey Plants
Growing comfrey plants requires a climate in hardiness zone USDA 3-9 (although some ornamental varieties are only hardy to zone 5) with rich, moist, alkaline soil (pH of 6.7-7.3). Comfrey plants generally prefer shade to part shade exposures in warm moist soil, although some cultivars require full sunlight to attain highest yields. There are some aggressive species and many self-sow readily. Propagation can be done via seed, division or separation. Sow comfrey seeds in fall or early spring directly in the garden or in a cold frame, and pot seedlings to be over wintered inside. Division of comfrey herb plants may occur at any time; however, spring is suggested. Divide by cutting off 3 inches of root below the soil level and then plant directly into a pot or another area of the garden. As comfrey can be an aggressive spreader, you may want to plant within a physical barrier and deadhead flowers to rein in its spreading habit. Comfrey plants are easy to grow and require very little maintenance once established. This perennial is generally frost and drought hardy as well as being primarily disease and pest resistant.
Comfrey Uses
As mentioned above, the comfrey herb plant has a long history of medicinal usage. Useful not only for staunching blood flow and arresting some bronchial ailments, comfrey has also been used to heal broken bones. Comfrey tea is often ingested for internal illness and poultices are applied to external ailments. Comfrey contains high amounts of allantioin (also found in nursing mother’s milk) and is said to increase the rate of cell growth, which in turn increases the number of white blood cells. The application of allantoin has been shown to heal wounds and burns more quickly and promotes healthy skin with high mucilage content. Due to this by-product of moisturizing and soothing, comfrey may be added to some cosmetics, cream, lotions and some people even add it to their bath water. At one time, comfrey herb plant was used as a forage crop but has been found to be unpalatable to some animals and recently has also been found to be possibly carcinogenic. Today the herb is restricted as a food crop and essentially used commercially for cosmetics and ornamental uses, including its use as a dye. Comfrey fertilizer is also used for composting, mulching or green manure. Some people eat comfrey, as it is a great source of plant-derived vitamin B12 primarily for vegetarians and vegans. Larger amounts of essential amino acids are found in turnip greens and spinach, so the jury is still out about whether the beneficial nutrition outweighs the possible harmful carcinogenic issues.
What is Comfrey?
Symphytum officinale, or comfrey herb plant, has a long history of use as a medicinal herb but not as a culinary plant. Otherwise known as knitbone or slippery root, comfrey plants have been used medicinally since 400 BC to stop heavy bleeding and to treat bronchial issues. From the family Boraginaceae, comfrey is a perennial herb with a spreading habit that attains a height of up to 4 feet. This plant is native to Europe and Asia where is thrives in moist, shady locations and bears ½-inch long flowers in May. The leaves of the comfrey are deep green in color, hairy and 10 inches or so in length.
Growing Comfrey Plants
Growing comfrey plants requires a climate in hardiness zone USDA 3-9 (although some ornamental varieties are only hardy to zone 5) with rich, moist, alkaline soil (pH of 6.7-7.3). Comfrey plants generally prefer shade to part shade exposures in warm moist soil, although some cultivars require full sunlight to attain highest yields. There are some aggressive species and many self-sow readily. Propagation can be done via seed, division or separation. Sow comfrey seeds in fall or early spring directly in the garden or in a cold frame, and pot seedlings to be over wintered inside. Division of comfrey herb plants may occur at any time; however, spring is suggested. Divide by cutting off 3 inches of root below the soil level and then plant directly into a pot or another area of the garden. As comfrey can be an aggressive spreader, you may want to plant within a physical barrier and deadhead flowers to rein in its spreading habit. Comfrey plants are easy to grow and require very little maintenance once established. This perennial is generally frost and drought hardy as well as being primarily disease and pest resistant.
Comfrey Uses
As mentioned above, the comfrey herb plant has a long history of medicinal usage. Useful not only for staunching blood flow and arresting some bronchial ailments, comfrey has also been used to heal broken bones. Comfrey tea is often ingested for internal illness and poultices are applied to external ailments. Comfrey contains high amounts of allantioin (also found in nursing mother’s milk) and is said to increase the rate of cell growth, which in turn increases the number of white blood cells. The application of allantoin has been shown to heal wounds and burns more quickly and promotes healthy skin with high mucilage content. Due to this by-product of moisturizing and soothing, comfrey may be added to some cosmetics, cream, lotions and some people even add it to their bath water. At one time, comfrey herb plant was used as a forage crop but has been found to be unpalatable to some animals and recently has also been found to be possibly carcinogenic. Today the herb is restricted as a food crop and essentially used commercially for cosmetics and ornamental uses, including its use as a dye. Comfrey fertilizer is also used for composting, mulching or green manure. Some people eat comfrey, as it is a great source of plant-derived vitamin B12 primarily for vegetarians and vegans. Larger amounts of essential amino acids are found in turnip greens and spinach, so the jury is still out about whether the beneficial nutrition outweighs the possible harmful carcinogenic issues.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Chives are low-maintenance denizens of the herb garden, and they’re handy when you want to snip a few for use in recipes or topping baked potatoes. The only problem is that these easy-to-grow plants aren’t always well behaved and before you know it, they can escape their boundaries and pop up in places where you don’t want them – including your well-tended lawn. Read on for helpful tips for controlling chives and ridding lawns of chive plants.
How Do You Get Rid of Chives?
If chives are spreading in lawns, you’ll need to implement a two-pronged approach because chives spread by both seeds and underground bulbs. To prevent the plant from going to seed, remove all of the blooms before they wilt – or better yet, mow or trim them before they have a chance to bloom at all. Removing the chive bulbs requires digging – a lot. A thin trowel or similar tool is best for digging bulbs in grass, and you may sacrifice a small amount of grass to get rid of the chives. Water the area the day before to soften the ground. Don’t attempt to pull the plants because the tiny bulblets will break off and spread. Be persistent and continue to dig as soon as new plants appear.
Controlling Chives with Chemicals
Chemical herbicides aren’t always effective against chives because of the waxy coating on the leaves. However, many gardeners find that products containing 2,4-D are effective against chives, and this chemical is safe to use on most – but not all – types of grass. Be sure to read the label carefully before spraying your lawn to prevent serious damage caused by using the wrong product. Ridding lawns of chive plants may require several applications. Now that you know how to better manage this plant, growing chives in the garden can become a less frustrating process.
How Do You Get Rid of Chives?
If chives are spreading in lawns, you’ll need to implement a two-pronged approach because chives spread by both seeds and underground bulbs. To prevent the plant from going to seed, remove all of the blooms before they wilt – or better yet, mow or trim them before they have a chance to bloom at all. Removing the chive bulbs requires digging – a lot. A thin trowel or similar tool is best for digging bulbs in grass, and you may sacrifice a small amount of grass to get rid of the chives. Water the area the day before to soften the ground. Don’t attempt to pull the plants because the tiny bulblets will break off and spread. Be persistent and continue to dig as soon as new plants appear.
Controlling Chives with Chemicals
Chemical herbicides aren’t always effective against chives because of the waxy coating on the leaves. However, many gardeners find that products containing 2,4-D are effective against chives, and this chemical is safe to use on most – but not all – types of grass. Be sure to read the label carefully before spraying your lawn to prevent serious damage caused by using the wrong product. Ridding lawns of chive plants may require several applications. Now that you know how to better manage this plant, growing chives in the garden can become a less frustrating process.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
We cultivate our chives in amongst our herb bed, but did you know that wild chives (Allium schoeneprasum) are one of the most common and easy to identify wild growing plants? What are wild chives and are wild chives edible? Read on to find out about wild chive identification and if wild chives are safe to eat.
Are Those Wild Chives in My Yard?
Wild chives are indeed so common you may have wondered “are those wild chives in my yard?” It is very likely the case. These perennial monocots reside in the onion genus and are the smallest species of onion. They are the only Allium species native to both the Old and New World and can be found throughout Europe, Asia and North America.
Chives have been cultivated in Europe since at least the 16th century, but wild chives have been used according to Egyptian and Mesopotamian records to 5,000 B.C. Native people used wild chives medicinally as well. Depending upon the culture, wild chives were used to stimulate the appetite or rid the system of worms, clear sinuses, as an antiseptic, or to treat a variety of maladies from insect bites, hives, burns, sores, and even snakebite. Wild chives contain sulfur compounds that ward off insect pests. They make a great companion plant in the garden, a natural pesticide if you would.
Wild Chive Identification
The wild chive is easy to identify if you’ve ever seen a domestic chive. They look like a clump of grass as they grow except that the leaf blades are not flat like grass but rather cylindrical and hollow. Wild chives will be one of the first plants to appear in the spring and easily stand out amongst the dormant grass. Wild chives grow between 10-20 inches in height. The aroma is lightly oniony, and while there are other plants that look similar, the poisonous mountain death-camas, for example, they lack the distinctive aroma. Wild chives can be found growing in USDA zones 4-8 among grasses and natural areas.
Are Wild Chives Safe to Eat?
While historically wild chives have been used medicinally, modern people use chives as a seasoning or on their own, sautéed as a vegetable. They impart a wonderful delicate onion flavor to soups and stew, and can even be pickled. The entire part of the plant can be eaten. Even the lilac flowers of wild chives are edible as well as beautiful when garnished atop a salad or soup. As mentioned, other plants look similar to wild chives – wild onion and wild garlic to name two. What is the difference between wild onions, wild garlic and wild chives? Wild chives look similar to wild garlic in that they both have hollow leaves while wild onion foliage does not. Sometimes wild onion is also called wild garlic, which is confusing to say the least. These are two distinct plants, however. Wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense) and are both perennials often thought of more as weeds. That said, all three are members of the Allium family and will all have a distinct aroma. As such, when a plant looks like an onion and smells like an onion, you can eat it like an onion. The same goes with wild garlic, which is just a wild version of our domestic garlic – albeit with smaller cloves.
Are Those Wild Chives in My Yard?
Wild chives are indeed so common you may have wondered “are those wild chives in my yard?” It is very likely the case. These perennial monocots reside in the onion genus and are the smallest species of onion. They are the only Allium species native to both the Old and New World and can be found throughout Europe, Asia and North America.
Chives have been cultivated in Europe since at least the 16th century, but wild chives have been used according to Egyptian and Mesopotamian records to 5,000 B.C. Native people used wild chives medicinally as well. Depending upon the culture, wild chives were used to stimulate the appetite or rid the system of worms, clear sinuses, as an antiseptic, or to treat a variety of maladies from insect bites, hives, burns, sores, and even snakebite. Wild chives contain sulfur compounds that ward off insect pests. They make a great companion plant in the garden, a natural pesticide if you would.
Wild Chive Identification
The wild chive is easy to identify if you’ve ever seen a domestic chive. They look like a clump of grass as they grow except that the leaf blades are not flat like grass but rather cylindrical and hollow. Wild chives will be one of the first plants to appear in the spring and easily stand out amongst the dormant grass. Wild chives grow between 10-20 inches in height. The aroma is lightly oniony, and while there are other plants that look similar, the poisonous mountain death-camas, for example, they lack the distinctive aroma. Wild chives can be found growing in USDA zones 4-8 among grasses and natural areas.
Are Wild Chives Safe to Eat?
While historically wild chives have been used medicinally, modern people use chives as a seasoning or on their own, sautéed as a vegetable. They impart a wonderful delicate onion flavor to soups and stew, and can even be pickled. The entire part of the plant can be eaten. Even the lilac flowers of wild chives are edible as well as beautiful when garnished atop a salad or soup. As mentioned, other plants look similar to wild chives – wild onion and wild garlic to name two. What is the difference between wild onions, wild garlic and wild chives? Wild chives look similar to wild garlic in that they both have hollow leaves while wild onion foliage does not. Sometimes wild onion is also called wild garlic, which is confusing to say the least. These are two distinct plants, however. Wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense) and are both perennials often thought of more as weeds. That said, all three are members of the Allium family and will all have a distinct aroma. As such, when a plant looks like an onion and smells like an onion, you can eat it like an onion. The same goes with wild garlic, which is just a wild version of our domestic garlic – albeit with smaller cloves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Catnip plants (Nepeta cataria) can help make your garden a cat-friendly garden. The catnip herb is a perennial member of the mint family that is best known for being attractive to cats, but can also be used in soothing teas. Growing catnip is easy, but there are some things you need to know about how to grow catnip.
Planting Catnip
Catnip can be planted in your garden either from seed or from plants.
If you’re growing catnip from seed, you’ll need to properly prepare the seeds. Catnip seeds are tough and need to be stratified or slightly damaged before they will sprout. This can be done by first placing the seeds in the freezer overnight and then placing the seeds in a bowl of water for 24 hours. This process will damage the seed coat and will make it much easier for the catnip seeds to sprout. After you have stratified the seeds, you can plant them indoors or outdoors. Thin them to one plant per 20 inches after the sprout. You can also plant catnip from plant divisions or started plants. The best time for planting catnip starts or divisions is in either the spring or fall. Catnip plants should be planted 18 to 20 inches apart.
Growing Catnip
Catnip herb grows best in well draining soil in the full sun, but will tolerate part sun and a wide variety of soil types. Once catnip plants are established, they need very little in the way of care. They don’t need to be fertilized, as fertilizer can decrease the potency of their smell and flavor. They only need to be provided with water beyond rainfall if you are growing catnip in pots or if you are having drought conditions.
Catnip can become invasive in some areas so you need to take steps to control it. Catnip plants spread readily by seed so in order to control its spread, you’ll need to remove the flowers before they go to seed. Growing catnip can be rewarding. Now that you know a few facts about how to grow catnip, you (and your cat) can enjoy this wonderful herb.
Planting Catnip
Catnip can be planted in your garden either from seed or from plants.
If you’re growing catnip from seed, you’ll need to properly prepare the seeds. Catnip seeds are tough and need to be stratified or slightly damaged before they will sprout. This can be done by first placing the seeds in the freezer overnight and then placing the seeds in a bowl of water for 24 hours. This process will damage the seed coat and will make it much easier for the catnip seeds to sprout. After you have stratified the seeds, you can plant them indoors or outdoors. Thin them to one plant per 20 inches after the sprout. You can also plant catnip from plant divisions or started plants. The best time for planting catnip starts or divisions is in either the spring or fall. Catnip plants should be planted 18 to 20 inches apart.
Growing Catnip
Catnip herb grows best in well draining soil in the full sun, but will tolerate part sun and a wide variety of soil types. Once catnip plants are established, they need very little in the way of care. They don’t need to be fertilized, as fertilizer can decrease the potency of their smell and flavor. They only need to be provided with water beyond rainfall if you are growing catnip in pots or if you are having drought conditions.
Catnip can become invasive in some areas so you need to take steps to control it. Catnip plants spread readily by seed so in order to control its spread, you’ll need to remove the flowers before they go to seed. Growing catnip can be rewarding. Now that you know a few facts about how to grow catnip, you (and your cat) can enjoy this wonderful herb.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Combining uses for plants in the garden brings a utilitarian and beautification aspect to the landscape. An example might be planting culinary or medicinal herbs that also bloom or have appealing foliage. Bupleurum is an excellent plant for such use. What is bupleurum? It is a plant with a long history as an Asian herbal medicine and is a lovely foil for many other types of plants. Growing bupleurum in the garden bed brings in traditional natural medicine paired with unmatched annual color.
What is Bupleurum?
Although bupleurum is from Asia, it can’t really be classed as a cool season or warm season annual. The plant is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to10, a pretty broad spectrum for a leafy herb. Most gardeners across North America and beyond can learn how to grow bupleurum and keep a ready supply of this useful herb on hand, either fresh or dried.
Once a common name among Chinese herb plant info, Bupleurum gibraltaricum, or hare’s ear, grows readily from seed. It can be recognized by bluish-green foliage which resembles eucalyptus leaves. The flowers are useful in a cut garden and arrive in yellowish green umbels. Most species grow about 24 inches tall (61 cm.) with a 12-inch spread (30.5 cm.). Although the plant is generally considered to be annual, it can be a short-lived perennial in frost-free zones. The plant has a dense, compact habit that contrasts nicely with other herbs or when added to the cut flower garden. The herb blooms from mid-summer all the way into fall and the first frost. Bupleurum is closely related to fennel, dill and other umbel-forming plants.
Chinese Herb Plant Info
Unless you are a long-time herbalist or licensed practitioner of herbal medicine, it is inadvisable to try to medicate yourself with this herb. However, it has been used for centuries to relieve such problems as arthritis, menopause, skin ailments, some ulcers and mental disorders. It has even been found to have use calming the withdrawal of steroid use. Much of the plant’s power comes from the high level of saponins found concentrated in the roots. Expert advice warns against side effects such as dizziness and headaches. Most of us wouldn’t be growing bupleurum for such uses, but it is nonetheless an attractive addition to any landscape situation.
How to Grow Bupleurum
Seed germination can be capricious, but starting the herb from seed is the most common method. Sow seed in a well-draining, prepared garden bed when soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C.). Surface sow and cover with a light dusting of soil. Keep moderately moist until germination, usually in 14 days. Thin plants until they are spaced 12 inches apart (30.5 cm). In frost free zones, divide the plant in spring. Bupleurum needs little extra food and has few insect and pest issues. As a cut flower it lasts for 7 to 10 days. This lovely plant is underused but care of bupleurum plants is relatively easy and low maintenance. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
What is Bupleurum?
Although bupleurum is from Asia, it can’t really be classed as a cool season or warm season annual. The plant is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to10, a pretty broad spectrum for a leafy herb. Most gardeners across North America and beyond can learn how to grow bupleurum and keep a ready supply of this useful herb on hand, either fresh or dried.
Once a common name among Chinese herb plant info, Bupleurum gibraltaricum, or hare’s ear, grows readily from seed. It can be recognized by bluish-green foliage which resembles eucalyptus leaves. The flowers are useful in a cut garden and arrive in yellowish green umbels. Most species grow about 24 inches tall (61 cm.) with a 12-inch spread (30.5 cm.). Although the plant is generally considered to be annual, it can be a short-lived perennial in frost-free zones. The plant has a dense, compact habit that contrasts nicely with other herbs or when added to the cut flower garden. The herb blooms from mid-summer all the way into fall and the first frost. Bupleurum is closely related to fennel, dill and other umbel-forming plants.
Chinese Herb Plant Info
Unless you are a long-time herbalist or licensed practitioner of herbal medicine, it is inadvisable to try to medicate yourself with this herb. However, it has been used for centuries to relieve such problems as arthritis, menopause, skin ailments, some ulcers and mental disorders. It has even been found to have use calming the withdrawal of steroid use. Much of the plant’s power comes from the high level of saponins found concentrated in the roots. Expert advice warns against side effects such as dizziness and headaches. Most of us wouldn’t be growing bupleurum for such uses, but it is nonetheless an attractive addition to any landscape situation.
How to Grow Bupleurum
Seed germination can be capricious, but starting the herb from seed is the most common method. Sow seed in a well-draining, prepared garden bed when soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C.). Surface sow and cover with a light dusting of soil. Keep moderately moist until germination, usually in 14 days. Thin plants until they are spaced 12 inches apart (30.5 cm). In frost free zones, divide the plant in spring. Bupleurum needs little extra food and has few insect and pest issues. As a cut flower it lasts for 7 to 10 days. This lovely plant is underused but care of bupleurum plants is relatively easy and low maintenance. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
You’ve probably heard about black cohosh with respect to women’s health. This interesting herb plant has much to offer for those wishing to grow it. Keep reading for more information on black cohosh plant care.
About Black Cohosh Plants
Found in the eastern United States, black cohosh plants are herbaceous wildflowers with an affinity for moist, partially shaded growing areas. Black cohosh is a member of the Ranunculaceae family, Cimicifuga reacemosa, and commonly referred to as black snakeroot or bugbane. Growing black cohosh gets the name ‘Bugbane’ in reference to its unpleasant odor, which renders it repellent to insects.
This wildflower has small plumes of star-shaped white flowers that soar upwards of 8 feet (more commonly 4 to 6 feet tall) above deep green, fern-like leaves. Growing black cohosh plants in the home landscape will definitively lend some drama due to its spectacular height and late summer blooms. Black cohosh perennials have foliage similar to that of astilbe, sharply serrated, and show themselves off nicely in shade gardens.
Black Cohosh Herb Benefits
Native American people once used growing black cohosh plants for a medley of medical issues, from snake bites to gynecological conditions. During the 19th century, physicians availed themselves of black cohosh herb benefits with regards to fever reduction, menstrual cramping, and arthritis pain. Additional benefits deemed the plant useful in the treatment of sore throats and bronchitis. Most recently, black cohosh has been utilized as an alternative medicine in the treatment of menopausal and premenopausal symptoms with a proven “estrogen-like” balm to reduce disagreeable symptoms, most especially hot flashes and night sweats. The roots and rhizomes of black cohosh are the medicinal portion of the plant and will be ready for harvesting three to five years after planting.
Black Cohosh Plant Care
In order to plant black cohosh in the home garden, either purchase seeds from a reputable nursery or collect your own. To collect seeds, do so in the fall when the seeds are mature and have dried out in their capsules; they will have started to split open and when shaken make a rattling sound. Sow these seeds immediately. Seeds for growing black cohosh plants must be stratified or exposed to a warm/cold/warm cycle to stimulate germination. To stratify the black cohosh seeds, expose them to 70 degrees F. (21 C.) for two weeks, and then 40 degrees F. (4 C.) for three months. Once the seeds have gone through this process, plant them 1 ½ to 2 inches apart and about ¼ inch deep in prepared moist soil that is high in organic matter and covered with a 1-inch layer of mulch. Although this herb prefers shade, it will grow in full sun; however, the plants will be of a lighter shade of green and may have more of a propensity for scalding of the foliage. You may want to sow seeds in a cold frame for germination the following spring if you have a particularly hostile climate. Black cohosh may also be propagated via division or separation in the spring or fall but not sooner than three years after planting. Maintain a consistently moist soil for your black cohosh plants, as they dislike drying out. Additionally, tall flower stalks may likely need staking. These perennials are slow growers and may require a little patience but will lend visual interest in the home landscape. Even the spent seed casings may be left throughout the winter to add texture to the garden.
About Black Cohosh Plants
Found in the eastern United States, black cohosh plants are herbaceous wildflowers with an affinity for moist, partially shaded growing areas. Black cohosh is a member of the Ranunculaceae family, Cimicifuga reacemosa, and commonly referred to as black snakeroot or bugbane. Growing black cohosh gets the name ‘Bugbane’ in reference to its unpleasant odor, which renders it repellent to insects.
This wildflower has small plumes of star-shaped white flowers that soar upwards of 8 feet (more commonly 4 to 6 feet tall) above deep green, fern-like leaves. Growing black cohosh plants in the home landscape will definitively lend some drama due to its spectacular height and late summer blooms. Black cohosh perennials have foliage similar to that of astilbe, sharply serrated, and show themselves off nicely in shade gardens.
Black Cohosh Herb Benefits
Native American people once used growing black cohosh plants for a medley of medical issues, from snake bites to gynecological conditions. During the 19th century, physicians availed themselves of black cohosh herb benefits with regards to fever reduction, menstrual cramping, and arthritis pain. Additional benefits deemed the plant useful in the treatment of sore throats and bronchitis. Most recently, black cohosh has been utilized as an alternative medicine in the treatment of menopausal and premenopausal symptoms with a proven “estrogen-like” balm to reduce disagreeable symptoms, most especially hot flashes and night sweats. The roots and rhizomes of black cohosh are the medicinal portion of the plant and will be ready for harvesting three to five years after planting.
Black Cohosh Plant Care
In order to plant black cohosh in the home garden, either purchase seeds from a reputable nursery or collect your own. To collect seeds, do so in the fall when the seeds are mature and have dried out in their capsules; they will have started to split open and when shaken make a rattling sound. Sow these seeds immediately. Seeds for growing black cohosh plants must be stratified or exposed to a warm/cold/warm cycle to stimulate germination. To stratify the black cohosh seeds, expose them to 70 degrees F. (21 C.) for two weeks, and then 40 degrees F. (4 C.) for three months. Once the seeds have gone through this process, plant them 1 ½ to 2 inches apart and about ¼ inch deep in prepared moist soil that is high in organic matter and covered with a 1-inch layer of mulch. Although this herb prefers shade, it will grow in full sun; however, the plants will be of a lighter shade of green and may have more of a propensity for scalding of the foliage. You may want to sow seeds in a cold frame for germination the following spring if you have a particularly hostile climate. Black cohosh may also be propagated via division or separation in the spring or fall but not sooner than three years after planting. Maintain a consistently moist soil for your black cohosh plants, as they dislike drying out. Additionally, tall flower stalks may likely need staking. These perennials are slow growers and may require a little patience but will lend visual interest in the home landscape. Even the spent seed casings may be left throughout the winter to add texture to the garden.
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