文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Most rosemary plants have blue to purple flowers, but not pink flowering rosemary. This beauty is as easy to grow as its blue and purple cousins, has the same fragrant qualities but with different hued blossoms. Thinking about growing rosemary with pink flowers? Read on for information about growing pink rosemary plants.
Pink Flowering Rosemary Plants
Rosemary(Rosemarinus officinalis) is an aromatic, perennial evergreen shrub that is steeped in history. The ancient Romans and Greeks used rosemary and associated it with love of their deities Eros and Aphrodite. You are likely to love it as well for its delicious flavor, scent and ease of growing.
Rosemary is in the mint family, Labiatae, and is native to the Mediterranean hills, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. While rosemary is primarily used in culinary dishes, in ancient times, the herb was associated with remembrance, memory and fidelity. Roman students wore sprigs of rosemary woven into their hair to improve memory. It was once also woven into a bridal wreath to remind the new couples of their wedding vows. It was even said that just a light touch of rosemary could render one hopelessly in love. Pink flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis var. roseus) has a semi-weeping habit with typically small, needle-like, resinous leaves. With no pruning, pink flowering rosemary sprawls attractively or it can be tidily pruned. The pale pink blossoms bloom from spring into summer. It may be found under names such as ‘Majorca Pink,’ ‘Majorca,’ ‘Roseus,’ or ‘Roseus-Cozart.’
Growing Pink Rosemary
Pink flowering rosemary, like all rosemary plants, thrives in full sun and is drought tolerant and hardy down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.). The shrub will grow to about three feet in height depending upon pruning and is hardy to USDA zones 8-11. This fragrant ornamental has few pest issues, although the usual culprits (aphids, mealybugs, scalesand spider mites) might be attracted to it. Root rot and botrytisare the most common diseases that afflict rosemary, but other than that the plant is susceptible to few diseases. The number one problem resulting in plant decline or even death is overwatering. Once the plant is established, it requires very little care. Water only when the weather has been extremely dry.
Prune the plant as desired. To harvest for use in food, only take 20% of the growth at any one time and don’t cut into the woody parts of the plant unless you are pruning and shaping it. Cut sprigs in the morning before the plant has flowered for the best flavor. The sprigs can then be dried or the leaves stripped from the woody stem and used fresh.
Pink Flowering Rosemary Plants
Rosemary(Rosemarinus officinalis) is an aromatic, perennial evergreen shrub that is steeped in history. The ancient Romans and Greeks used rosemary and associated it with love of their deities Eros and Aphrodite. You are likely to love it as well for its delicious flavor, scent and ease of growing.
Rosemary is in the mint family, Labiatae, and is native to the Mediterranean hills, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. While rosemary is primarily used in culinary dishes, in ancient times, the herb was associated with remembrance, memory and fidelity. Roman students wore sprigs of rosemary woven into their hair to improve memory. It was once also woven into a bridal wreath to remind the new couples of their wedding vows. It was even said that just a light touch of rosemary could render one hopelessly in love. Pink flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis var. roseus) has a semi-weeping habit with typically small, needle-like, resinous leaves. With no pruning, pink flowering rosemary sprawls attractively or it can be tidily pruned. The pale pink blossoms bloom from spring into summer. It may be found under names such as ‘Majorca Pink,’ ‘Majorca,’ ‘Roseus,’ or ‘Roseus-Cozart.’
Growing Pink Rosemary
Pink flowering rosemary, like all rosemary plants, thrives in full sun and is drought tolerant and hardy down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.). The shrub will grow to about three feet in height depending upon pruning and is hardy to USDA zones 8-11. This fragrant ornamental has few pest issues, although the usual culprits (aphids, mealybugs, scalesand spider mites) might be attracted to it. Root rot and botrytisare the most common diseases that afflict rosemary, but other than that the plant is susceptible to few diseases. The number one problem resulting in plant decline or even death is overwatering. Once the plant is established, it requires very little care. Water only when the weather has been extremely dry.
Prune the plant as desired. To harvest for use in food, only take 20% of the growth at any one time and don’t cut into the woody parts of the plant unless you are pruning and shaping it. Cut sprigs in the morning before the plant has flowered for the best flavor. The sprigs can then be dried or the leaves stripped from the woody stem and used fresh.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Can rosemary survive outside over winter? The answer depends on your growing zone, as rosemary plants are unlikely to survive temperatures below 10 to 20 F. (-7 to -12 C.). If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 or below, rosemary will only survive if you bring it indoors before the arrival of freezing temperatures. On the other hand, if your growing zone is at least zone 8, you can grow rosemary outdoors year round with protection during the chilly months. However, there are exceptions, as a few newer rosemary cultivars have been bred to survive temperatures as low as USDA zone 6 with ample winter protection. Ask your local garden center about ‘Arp,’ ‘Athens Blue Spire’ and ‘Madeline Hill.’ Read on to learn about protecting rosemary plants in winter.
How to Protect Rosemary in Winter
Here are some tips for winterizing rosemary plants:
Plant rosemary in a sunny, sheltered location where the plant is protected from harsh winter winds. A warm spot near your house is your best bet. Prune the plant to about 3 inches after the first frost, then bury the plant entirely with soil or compost. Pile 4 to 6 inches of mulch such as pine needles, straw, finely chopped mulch or chopped leaves over the plant. (Be sure to remove about half of the mulch in spring.) Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that your rosemary plant will survive a cold winter, even with protection. However, you can add a bit of extra protection by covering the plant with a frost blanket during cold snaps. Some gardeners surround rosemary plants with cinderblocks before adding mulch. The blocks provide extra insulation and also help hold the mulch in place.
How to Protect Rosemary in Winter
Here are some tips for winterizing rosemary plants:
Plant rosemary in a sunny, sheltered location where the plant is protected from harsh winter winds. A warm spot near your house is your best bet. Prune the plant to about 3 inches after the first frost, then bury the plant entirely with soil or compost. Pile 4 to 6 inches of mulch such as pine needles, straw, finely chopped mulch or chopped leaves over the plant. (Be sure to remove about half of the mulch in spring.) Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that your rosemary plant will survive a cold winter, even with protection. However, you can add a bit of extra protection by covering the plant with a frost blanket during cold snaps. Some gardeners surround rosemary plants with cinderblocks before adding mulch. The blocks provide extra insulation and also help hold the mulch in place.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
While they have a very unfortunate name, rape plants are widely grown the world over for their extremely fatty seeds that are used both for nutritious animal feed and for oil. Keep reading to learn more about rapeseed benefits and growing rape plants in the garden.
Rapeseed Information
What is rapeseed? Rape plants (Brassica napus) are members of the brassica family, which means they’re closely related to mustard, kale, and cabbage. Like all brassicas, they are cool weather crops, and growing rape plants in the spring or autumn is preferable. The plants are very forgiving and will grow in a wide range of soil qualities as long as it is well-draining. They will grow well in acidic, neutral, and alkaline soils. They will even tolerate salt.
Rapeseed Benefits
Rape plants are almost always grown for their seeds, which contain a very high percentage of oil. Once harvested, the seeds can be pressed and used for cooking oil or non-edible oils, such as lubricants and biofuels. The plants harvested for their oil are annuals. There are also biennial plants that are mainly grown as feed for animals. Because of the high fat content, biennial rape plants make an excellent feed and is often used as forage.
Rapeseed vs. Canola Oil
While the words rapeseed and canola are sometimes used interchangeably, they are not quite the same thing. While they belong to the same species, canola is a specific cultivar of the rape plant that is grown to produce food grade oil. Not all varieties of rapeseed are edible for humans due to the presence of erucic acid, which is especially low in canola varieties. The name “canola” was actually registered in 1973 when it was developed as an alternative to rapeseed for edible oil.
Rapeseed Information
What is rapeseed? Rape plants (Brassica napus) are members of the brassica family, which means they’re closely related to mustard, kale, and cabbage. Like all brassicas, they are cool weather crops, and growing rape plants in the spring or autumn is preferable. The plants are very forgiving and will grow in a wide range of soil qualities as long as it is well-draining. They will grow well in acidic, neutral, and alkaline soils. They will even tolerate salt.
Rapeseed Benefits
Rape plants are almost always grown for their seeds, which contain a very high percentage of oil. Once harvested, the seeds can be pressed and used for cooking oil or non-edible oils, such as lubricants and biofuels. The plants harvested for their oil are annuals. There are also biennial plants that are mainly grown as feed for animals. Because of the high fat content, biennial rape plants make an excellent feed and is often used as forage.
Rapeseed vs. Canola Oil
While the words rapeseed and canola are sometimes used interchangeably, they are not quite the same thing. While they belong to the same species, canola is a specific cultivar of the rape plant that is grown to produce food grade oil. Not all varieties of rapeseed are edible for humans due to the presence of erucic acid, which is especially low in canola varieties. The name “canola” was actually registered in 1973 when it was developed as an alternative to rapeseed for edible oil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Plantains are unsightly lawn weeds that thrive in compacted soil and neglected lawns. Plantain weed treatment consists of diligently digging out the plants as they appear and treating the plants with herbicides. Since weed plantain thrives in poorly established lawns, the best prevention is a healthy lawn. Keep reading to learn more about plantain control.
Broadleaf and Narrow Leaf Plantains
The two types of plantains that are commonly found in lawns are broadleaf plantain (Plantago major) and narrow-leaf, or buckhorn plant (P. lanceolata). These two perennial weeds are easily differentiated by their leaves. Broadleaf plantains have smooth, oval leaves while buckhorn plantain has ribbed, lance-shaped leaves. Both types are found throughout the U.S. where they thrive in compacted soil.
Preventing Plantain Lawn Weeds
The best way to prevent plantains in the lawn is to keep the soil aerated and healthy. Aerate compacted soil and follow a regular schedule of fertilization at least twice a year. Water the lawn deeply when there is less than an inch of rainfall in a week. A healthy lawn crowds out plantains, but the plantains crowd out the grass when the lawn is in poor condition. Plantain weeds also contaminate mowers and other equipment used on the lawn. Clean your equipment thoroughly before using it again to prevent the spread of planting lawn weeds.
Plantain Weed Treatment
Plantain control can be achieved by pulling or digging the plants as they emerge when the infested area is small. This is easiest in sandy soil or soil that has been softened by rain or irrigation. You may have to dig and pull the plants in the area several times before achieving complete control. The weeds must be removed before they have a chance to produce seeds. When large numbers of the weeds are present, plantain lawn weeds are best controlled with herbicides. Choose a post-emergent herbicide labeled for plantain control. Post-emergent herbicides are most effective against plantains in fall when the plants are moving carbohydrates to the roots for winter storage. You can also apply the herbicides in spring. Carefully follow the label instructions regarding mixing, timing and application procedures. Avoid spraying when temperatures are above 85 degrees F. (29 C.) and on windy days. Store any unused portions of the herbicide in the original container and out of the reach of children.
Broadleaf and Narrow Leaf Plantains
The two types of plantains that are commonly found in lawns are broadleaf plantain (Plantago major) and narrow-leaf, or buckhorn plant (P. lanceolata). These two perennial weeds are easily differentiated by their leaves. Broadleaf plantains have smooth, oval leaves while buckhorn plantain has ribbed, lance-shaped leaves. Both types are found throughout the U.S. where they thrive in compacted soil.
Preventing Plantain Lawn Weeds
The best way to prevent plantains in the lawn is to keep the soil aerated and healthy. Aerate compacted soil and follow a regular schedule of fertilization at least twice a year. Water the lawn deeply when there is less than an inch of rainfall in a week. A healthy lawn crowds out plantains, but the plantains crowd out the grass when the lawn is in poor condition. Plantain weeds also contaminate mowers and other equipment used on the lawn. Clean your equipment thoroughly before using it again to prevent the spread of planting lawn weeds.
Plantain Weed Treatment
Plantain control can be achieved by pulling or digging the plants as they emerge when the infested area is small. This is easiest in sandy soil or soil that has been softened by rain or irrigation. You may have to dig and pull the plants in the area several times before achieving complete control. The weeds must be removed before they have a chance to produce seeds. When large numbers of the weeds are present, plantain lawn weeds are best controlled with herbicides. Choose a post-emergent herbicide labeled for plantain control. Post-emergent herbicides are most effective against plantains in fall when the plants are moving carbohydrates to the roots for winter storage. You can also apply the herbicides in spring. Carefully follow the label instructions regarding mixing, timing and application procedures. Avoid spraying when temperatures are above 85 degrees F. (29 C.) and on windy days. Store any unused portions of the herbicide in the original container and out of the reach of children.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
I love fresh ground pepper, especially the mélange of white, red, and black corns which have a slightly different nuance than just plain black peppercorns. This mix can be pricey, so the thought is, can you grow black pepper plants? Let’s find out.
Black Pepper Information
Yes, growing black pepper is possible and here’s a little more black pepper information which will make it even more worthy beyond saving a couple of dollars.
Peppercorns have good reason for costing dearly; they have been traded between East and West for centuries, were known to the ancient Greeks and Romans and served as currency in some European countries. This prized spice stimulates salivation and the production of gastric juices and is a revered food flavoring throughout the world. Piper nigrum, or peppercorn plant, is a tropical plant cultivated for its black, white and red peppercorns. The three colors of peppercorn are simply different stages of the same peppercorn. Black peppercorns are the dried immature fruit or drupes of the peppercorn plant while white pepper is made from the inner portion of the mature fruit.
How to Grow Peppercorns
Growing black pepper plants are actually vines most often propagated through vegetative cuttings and interspersed among shade crop trees, such as coffee. Conditions for growing black pepper plants require high temps, heavy and frequent rainfall, and well draining soil, met in the countries of India, Indonesia and Brazil — the greatest commercial exporters of peppercorns. So, the question is how to grow peppercorns for the home environ. These warm loving plants will stop growing when temps drop below 65 F. (18 C.) and do not tolerate frost; as such they make great container plants. Situate in full sun with 50 percent or greater humidity, or inside the house or greenhouse if your region does not fit this criteria.
Feed the plant moderately with a 10-10-10 fertilizer in the amount of ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water every one to two weeks, excluding winter months when feeding should cease. Water thoroughly and consistently. Do not allow to dry out too much or overwater since peppercorn plants are susceptible to root rot. To stimulate peppercorn production, keep the plant under bright light and warm — above 65 F. (18 C.). Be patient. Peppercorns are slow growing and it will take a couple of years before they produce flowers that lead to peppercorns.
Black Pepper Information
Yes, growing black pepper is possible and here’s a little more black pepper information which will make it even more worthy beyond saving a couple of dollars.
Peppercorns have good reason for costing dearly; they have been traded between East and West for centuries, were known to the ancient Greeks and Romans and served as currency in some European countries. This prized spice stimulates salivation and the production of gastric juices and is a revered food flavoring throughout the world. Piper nigrum, or peppercorn plant, is a tropical plant cultivated for its black, white and red peppercorns. The three colors of peppercorn are simply different stages of the same peppercorn. Black peppercorns are the dried immature fruit or drupes of the peppercorn plant while white pepper is made from the inner portion of the mature fruit.
How to Grow Peppercorns
Growing black pepper plants are actually vines most often propagated through vegetative cuttings and interspersed among shade crop trees, such as coffee. Conditions for growing black pepper plants require high temps, heavy and frequent rainfall, and well draining soil, met in the countries of India, Indonesia and Brazil — the greatest commercial exporters of peppercorns. So, the question is how to grow peppercorns for the home environ. These warm loving plants will stop growing when temps drop below 65 F. (18 C.) and do not tolerate frost; as such they make great container plants. Situate in full sun with 50 percent or greater humidity, or inside the house or greenhouse if your region does not fit this criteria.
Feed the plant moderately with a 10-10-10 fertilizer in the amount of ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water every one to two weeks, excluding winter months when feeding should cease. Water thoroughly and consistently. Do not allow to dry out too much or overwater since peppercorn plants are susceptible to root rot. To stimulate peppercorn production, keep the plant under bright light and warm — above 65 F. (18 C.). Be patient. Peppercorns are slow growing and it will take a couple of years before they produce flowers that lead to peppercorns.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
An aroma synonymous with the Hippie era, patchouli cultivation has its place amongst the ‘de rigueur’ herbs of the garden such as oregano, basil, thyme and mint. As a matter of fact, patchouli plants reside in the family Lamiaceae, or mint family. Read on to learn more about patchouli uses.
Information About Patchouli Herb Plant
As you might guess due to its inclusion in the mint family, patchouli herb plant has a fragrant scent and has been valued for just that for centuries in addition to its purported medicinal uses. The patchouli plant is native to the Malay Archipelago and West Indies.
Chinese, Indian, Malaysian and Japanese cultures included patchouli cultivation amongst their medicinal herb garden to treat fungal and skin problems, stomach ailments and as an insecticide and antiseptic. This perennial herb has furry, green and ovate leaves born on an erect plant that grows to between 2-3 feet. Patchouli plant blooms are white tinged with purple and arise from purplish stems.
How to Grow Patchouli Plants
Patchouli likes a warm, damp climate in fertile, well-draining soil in an area of full to partial sun exposure. This herb is conducive to container growth, or you can plant it directly into the garden. Patchouli herb plant thrives in a soil pH of between 5.5 and 6.2. Dig a hole matching the depth of the container in which the herb comes in. Place the plant in the hole and tamp the soil down around the herb to eliminate any air pockets. Give the herb 20 inches of room around it to grow into and water it in thoroughly. Thereafter, allow the topsoil to dry before watering. A good layer of mulch around the patchouli herb plant is recommended to retain moisture.
Patchouli Plant Care
Fertilize the herb each spring with an NPK plant food with a ratio of 10-10-10 and thereafter once each month until the fall. Prune any leaves that are dying, diseased or otherwise damaged. Patchouli is susceptible to infection with leaf blight. Prior to pruning the plant, dip the shears in a mix of 70 percent denatured alcohol and 30 percent water to retard the spread of the disease. Caterpillars love patchouli plants as well, so be vigilant about their discovery and removal. Winter watering should be reduced to allow the plant to go into dormancy. If you grow patchouli plant in containers, they can be moved indoors for protection, especially in areas with harsh winters. First acclimate the plant by setting it in a shady area for a few days prior to bringing it inside; this will keep it from becoming shocked by the sudden temperature shift. Place the container in a south facing window where it can then receive at least six hours of sunlight.
Uses for Patchouli Plant
As previously mentioned, patchouli has been used as a treatment for many medicinal maladies. Both the leaves and roots are used depending upon the treatment. The heady essential oils are used not only for scenting the body and garments, but have been used as an antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, antiemetic, antiseptic, antimicrobial, an astringent, decongestant, deodorant, diuretic, fungicide, sedative and prophylactic. This pungent oil is said to cure or aid in acne, athlete’s foot, cracked or chapped skin, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema, fungal infections, hair care, impetigo, insect repellent, oily scalp treatment, and to cure open sores and wounds and even to eliminate wrinkles! Harvest patchouli on dry mornings when the essential oils have peaked to get the most benefit from the plant.
Information About Patchouli Herb Plant
As you might guess due to its inclusion in the mint family, patchouli herb plant has a fragrant scent and has been valued for just that for centuries in addition to its purported medicinal uses. The patchouli plant is native to the Malay Archipelago and West Indies.
Chinese, Indian, Malaysian and Japanese cultures included patchouli cultivation amongst their medicinal herb garden to treat fungal and skin problems, stomach ailments and as an insecticide and antiseptic. This perennial herb has furry, green and ovate leaves born on an erect plant that grows to between 2-3 feet. Patchouli plant blooms are white tinged with purple and arise from purplish stems.
How to Grow Patchouli Plants
Patchouli likes a warm, damp climate in fertile, well-draining soil in an area of full to partial sun exposure. This herb is conducive to container growth, or you can plant it directly into the garden. Patchouli herb plant thrives in a soil pH of between 5.5 and 6.2. Dig a hole matching the depth of the container in which the herb comes in. Place the plant in the hole and tamp the soil down around the herb to eliminate any air pockets. Give the herb 20 inches of room around it to grow into and water it in thoroughly. Thereafter, allow the topsoil to dry before watering. A good layer of mulch around the patchouli herb plant is recommended to retain moisture.
Patchouli Plant Care
Fertilize the herb each spring with an NPK plant food with a ratio of 10-10-10 and thereafter once each month until the fall. Prune any leaves that are dying, diseased or otherwise damaged. Patchouli is susceptible to infection with leaf blight. Prior to pruning the plant, dip the shears in a mix of 70 percent denatured alcohol and 30 percent water to retard the spread of the disease. Caterpillars love patchouli plants as well, so be vigilant about their discovery and removal. Winter watering should be reduced to allow the plant to go into dormancy. If you grow patchouli plant in containers, they can be moved indoors for protection, especially in areas with harsh winters. First acclimate the plant by setting it in a shady area for a few days prior to bringing it inside; this will keep it from becoming shocked by the sudden temperature shift. Place the container in a south facing window where it can then receive at least six hours of sunlight.
Uses for Patchouli Plant
As previously mentioned, patchouli has been used as a treatment for many medicinal maladies. Both the leaves and roots are used depending upon the treatment. The heady essential oils are used not only for scenting the body and garments, but have been used as an antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, antiemetic, antiseptic, antimicrobial, an astringent, decongestant, deodorant, diuretic, fungicide, sedative and prophylactic. This pungent oil is said to cure or aid in acne, athlete’s foot, cracked or chapped skin, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema, fungal infections, hair care, impetigo, insect repellent, oily scalp treatment, and to cure open sores and wounds and even to eliminate wrinkles! Harvest patchouli on dry mornings when the essential oils have peaked to get the most benefit from the plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Herbs are one of the easiest plants to grow and provide pollinators a place to dine while livening up our dinners. Ornamental oregano plants bring all these attributes to the table as well as unique beauty and fun trailing form. The flavor isn’t as strong as the culinary variety but it has an unmatched appearance in its colorful bracts that develop in a host of pastel hues. What is ornamental oregano? It is a peacock of the herb family with many decorative uses.
What is Ornamental Oregano?
Many plants that are considered herbs have long lasting greenery and bright jaunty flowers that are like a magnet to bees, moths and other insects. Growing ornamental oregano provides a subtle oregano taste to food but is more often used for its unique appearance. Many of the forms are perfect for hanging baskets or as trailing accents in a rockery. They need little specialized care and are as hardy as their more common cousins.
Ornamental oregano is in the genus Origanum just like its less engaging oregano cousin that is more familiar to our spice cupboards. They are a group of disease and deer resistant plants that thrive in a variety of soils and situations. The attribute most praised about this herb is its flowery bracts, which dangle appealingly from the stems in colors of soft pink, lavender, green and burgundy. Ornamental oregano plants may be upright or trailing and some have characteristic flowers but the varieties with whorled colored bracts and silvery blue foliage are most eye catching. Ornamental oregano care is similar to care for any Mediterranean herb.
Growing Ornamental Oregano in the Garden
There are many varieties from which to choose if you want to try your hand at one of the ornamental oreganos. Dittany of Crete and Kent Beauty boast tiny flowers but big colorful bracts. The bracts overlap and look similar to crepe paper pinecone scales. Pilgrim is an upright form with rosy pink flowers while Amethyst Falls is another cascading plant with hot pink blooms and purple bracts. There are even some lime green forms and some with multicolored bracts. Kent Beauty was the first available in the trade but several hybrids are now common in nursery centers. Once you get your hands on one, you’ll be hooked by their unique splendor and want to try many of the other forms.
How to Grow Ornamental Oregano
Most of the varieties are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 or 5, except Dittany of Crete, which is only hardy to zone 7. Choose a site with full sun for best flower and bract formation, although the plants will do fairly well in partial sun. Soil should be well worked and have good drainage. Initial ornamental oregano care should feature regular watering with moderately moist soil but after the plant is established, it prefers a slightly dry environment. Ornamental oregano is a perennial and will create a larger colony over time. In cooler regions, grow your oregano in a container and move it indoors when freezes are expected. Container plants benefit from some liquid fertilizer in spring but outdoor plants are generally fine with just a top dressing of compost.
What is Ornamental Oregano?
Many plants that are considered herbs have long lasting greenery and bright jaunty flowers that are like a magnet to bees, moths and other insects. Growing ornamental oregano provides a subtle oregano taste to food but is more often used for its unique appearance. Many of the forms are perfect for hanging baskets or as trailing accents in a rockery. They need little specialized care and are as hardy as their more common cousins.
Ornamental oregano is in the genus Origanum just like its less engaging oregano cousin that is more familiar to our spice cupboards. They are a group of disease and deer resistant plants that thrive in a variety of soils and situations. The attribute most praised about this herb is its flowery bracts, which dangle appealingly from the stems in colors of soft pink, lavender, green and burgundy. Ornamental oregano plants may be upright or trailing and some have characteristic flowers but the varieties with whorled colored bracts and silvery blue foliage are most eye catching. Ornamental oregano care is similar to care for any Mediterranean herb.
Growing Ornamental Oregano in the Garden
There are many varieties from which to choose if you want to try your hand at one of the ornamental oreganos. Dittany of Crete and Kent Beauty boast tiny flowers but big colorful bracts. The bracts overlap and look similar to crepe paper pinecone scales. Pilgrim is an upright form with rosy pink flowers while Amethyst Falls is another cascading plant with hot pink blooms and purple bracts. There are even some lime green forms and some with multicolored bracts. Kent Beauty was the first available in the trade but several hybrids are now common in nursery centers. Once you get your hands on one, you’ll be hooked by their unique splendor and want to try many of the other forms.
How to Grow Ornamental Oregano
Most of the varieties are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 or 5, except Dittany of Crete, which is only hardy to zone 7. Choose a site with full sun for best flower and bract formation, although the plants will do fairly well in partial sun. Soil should be well worked and have good drainage. Initial ornamental oregano care should feature regular watering with moderately moist soil but after the plant is established, it prefers a slightly dry environment. Ornamental oregano is a perennial and will create a larger colony over time. In cooler regions, grow your oregano in a container and move it indoors when freezes are expected. Container plants benefit from some liquid fertilizer in spring but outdoor plants are generally fine with just a top dressing of compost.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Herbs are some of the most rewarding plants you can grow. They’re often easy to care for, they can be kept in a container, they smell amazing, and they’re always on hand for cooking. One especially popular herb is oregano. Golden oregano is a common and worthwhile variety. Keep reading to learn more about growing golden oregano herbs and caring for golden oregano plants.
Golden Oregano Information
Golden oregano plants (Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’) get their name from their yellow to golden foliage that is the brightest and truest yellow in full sun and cooler weather. In the summer, the yellow leaves are covered in delicate pink and purple flowers. Is golden oregano edible? It sure is! Golden oregano is very fragrant and has the classic oregano smell and taste that is in such demand in cooking.
Growing Golden Oregano Plants
Growing golden oregano herbs is especially good for container and small space gardening, since the plants tend to spread out less vigorously than other varieties of oregano. Caring for golden oregano is very easy. The plants need full sun, but they will grow in virtually any type of soil. They prefer moderate watering and can withstand drying. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9 and will stay evergreen in the warmer zones. While less prone to spread than other oregano varieties, they are still vigorous plants that can grow to 3 feet in height and spread to 12 feet in width.
Golden oregano plants can be trimmed at any time for cooking, but it’s useful to cut them back drastically in early summer to keep them low to the ground and contained. Dry and store your early summer clippings to have homegrown oregano on hand all year long.
Golden Oregano Information
Golden oregano plants (Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’) get their name from their yellow to golden foliage that is the brightest and truest yellow in full sun and cooler weather. In the summer, the yellow leaves are covered in delicate pink and purple flowers. Is golden oregano edible? It sure is! Golden oregano is very fragrant and has the classic oregano smell and taste that is in such demand in cooking.
Growing Golden Oregano Plants
Growing golden oregano herbs is especially good for container and small space gardening, since the plants tend to spread out less vigorously than other varieties of oregano. Caring for golden oregano is very easy. The plants need full sun, but they will grow in virtually any type of soil. They prefer moderate watering and can withstand drying. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9 and will stay evergreen in the warmer zones. While less prone to spread than other oregano varieties, they are still vigorous plants that can grow to 3 feet in height and spread to 12 feet in width.
Golden oregano plants can be trimmed at any time for cooking, but it’s useful to cut them back drastically in early summer to keep them low to the ground and contained. Dry and store your early summer clippings to have homegrown oregano on hand all year long.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Can you ever have too many lavender plants? This article explains how to propagate lavender from cuttings. The project doesn’t require any special equipment, and it’s easy enough for a beginner. Read on to learn more.
Propagating Lavender Plants
You can start lavender from hardwood or softwood cuttings. Softwood cuttings are taken from the soft, pliable tips of new growth. Hardwood is thicker than softwood and resists bending. It may snap if you force it to bend.
The best type of cutting to use depends on the type of lavender and the time of year. Softwood cuttings are plentiful in spring, and you can gather more of them without destroying the parent plant. They root quickly but aren’t as reliable as hardwood cuttings. While softwood cuttings are only available in spring, you can take hardwood cuttings in spring or fall. Some types of lavender bloom freely, making it hard to get a blossom-free stem when the wood is soft. Blossoms drain the plant of energy, and it’s unlikely that a stem will have the resources to form good roots if it is trying to bloom. These free-blooming plants are best rooted from hardwood cuttings.
Taking Cuttings from Lavender
Regardless of the type of cutting, you should always cut healthy, straight, vigorous stems for rooting. Choose stems with good color and no buds. Use a sharp knife to take a hardwood or softwood cutting measuring 3 to 4 inches long. Cut hardwood stems just below a bump that indicates a leaf node. Remove all of the leaves from the lower 2 inches of the stem and then gently scrape the skin off the bottom portion of the stem on one side with a knife. Set the cutting aside while you prepare the container. Fill a small pot with commercial starting medium or a homemade mix of half vermiculite or perlite and half peat moss, with a little bark added to facilitate drainage. Dip the stripped tip of the cutting in rooting hormone, if desired. Rooting hormone helps prevent the tip from rotting and encourages quick, strong root development, but lavender roots well without it. Stick the lower end of the cutting about 2 inches into the soil and firm the soil so that the cutting stands up straight. Cover with plastic to form a greenhouse-like environment for the cuttings.
Lavender Cuttings Care
Softwood cuttings from lavender root in two to four weeks, and hardwood cuttings take a little longer. Check to see if the stems have roots by giving them a gentle tug. If you feel resistance, the stem has roots holding it in place. Wait several days between tugs as you can damage tender, young roots by tugging on them too often. Remove the plastic bag when the cutting has roots. Set the new plant in a sunny location and water it when the soil is dry an inch or so below the surface. Feed the plant with one-quarter strength liquid plant fertilizer once a week. If you plan to keep the plant in a pot for more than two or three weeks, transplant it into a larger pot with regular potting soil that drains freely. Commercial potting soils have plenty of nutrients to maintain the plants without supplemental feedings. Propagation of lavender from cuttings is easy and more likely to be successful than growing the plants from seeds. With cuttings, you can rest assured that your new plants will be exactly like the parent plants.
Propagating Lavender Plants
You can start lavender from hardwood or softwood cuttings. Softwood cuttings are taken from the soft, pliable tips of new growth. Hardwood is thicker than softwood and resists bending. It may snap if you force it to bend.
The best type of cutting to use depends on the type of lavender and the time of year. Softwood cuttings are plentiful in spring, and you can gather more of them without destroying the parent plant. They root quickly but aren’t as reliable as hardwood cuttings. While softwood cuttings are only available in spring, you can take hardwood cuttings in spring or fall. Some types of lavender bloom freely, making it hard to get a blossom-free stem when the wood is soft. Blossoms drain the plant of energy, and it’s unlikely that a stem will have the resources to form good roots if it is trying to bloom. These free-blooming plants are best rooted from hardwood cuttings.
Taking Cuttings from Lavender
Regardless of the type of cutting, you should always cut healthy, straight, vigorous stems for rooting. Choose stems with good color and no buds. Use a sharp knife to take a hardwood or softwood cutting measuring 3 to 4 inches long. Cut hardwood stems just below a bump that indicates a leaf node. Remove all of the leaves from the lower 2 inches of the stem and then gently scrape the skin off the bottom portion of the stem on one side with a knife. Set the cutting aside while you prepare the container. Fill a small pot with commercial starting medium or a homemade mix of half vermiculite or perlite and half peat moss, with a little bark added to facilitate drainage. Dip the stripped tip of the cutting in rooting hormone, if desired. Rooting hormone helps prevent the tip from rotting and encourages quick, strong root development, but lavender roots well without it. Stick the lower end of the cutting about 2 inches into the soil and firm the soil so that the cutting stands up straight. Cover with plastic to form a greenhouse-like environment for the cuttings.
Lavender Cuttings Care
Softwood cuttings from lavender root in two to four weeks, and hardwood cuttings take a little longer. Check to see if the stems have roots by giving them a gentle tug. If you feel resistance, the stem has roots holding it in place. Wait several days between tugs as you can damage tender, young roots by tugging on them too often. Remove the plastic bag when the cutting has roots. Set the new plant in a sunny location and water it when the soil is dry an inch or so below the surface. Feed the plant with one-quarter strength liquid plant fertilizer once a week. If you plan to keep the plant in a pot for more than two or three weeks, transplant it into a larger pot with regular potting soil that drains freely. Commercial potting soils have plenty of nutrients to maintain the plants without supplemental feedings. Propagation of lavender from cuttings is easy and more likely to be successful than growing the plants from seeds. With cuttings, you can rest assured that your new plants will be exactly like the parent plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Lavender shrubs bear bright, fragrant blossoms and can live for 20 years or more. However, after six or eight years, they can begin to look woody, filled with dead wood and bearing fewer of the sweet-smelling flowers. Don’t give up on these plants. If you want to know what to do with woody lavender, understand that pruning woody lavender plants can often restore them to their former glory. Read on to learn how to trim a lavender with woody stems.
Preventing Woody Lavender
Prevention is always easier than cure. If you have young, healthy lavender plants, you can work at preventing woody lavender with appropriate planting and cultural care. The keys to lavender care are good drainage and minimal fertilizer. Plant your lavender in well-drained, rocky soil, on a slope (if possible) to ensure drainage. Fertilize them lightly the very first year after planting. After that, do not fertilize regularly. Prune lavender lightly to maintain the rounded shape.
What to Do with Woody Lavender
When you notice that your lavender is woody, it’s time to take action to help it recover. Here’s what to do with woody lavender plants: prune them. Pruning woody lavender plants is the key to rejuvenating them. For restorative pruning, be sure to sterilize the pruners by soaking them in a solution of water and denatured alcohol to prevent disease spread. It’s also important that the tool blades are sharp. Prune these lavender in spring when all frost is finished for the season. A frost can kill off new plant growth.
How to Trim a Lavender with Woody Stems
It isn’t hard to learn how to trim a lavender with woody stems. The basic rule of pruning lavender is not to trim into brown, dead wood. You’ll usually find brown branches at the base of the plant. Remove them only when they are truly dead. Never cut them back, hoping to stimulate new growth. The plant cannot produce new growth from the woody parts. When you’re pruning woody lavender plants, it’s also a good idea not to prune all of the plant at the same time. Instead, work slowing, trimming back each branch but never into the brown wood. You can trim branches back by one-third or one-half. Always be sure that there are green leaves on the plant when you are done pruning. The entire restoration may take several years to accomplish, as you never want to do too much pruning at one time. Prune again in autumn just to shape the plant, then weed all around it and offer a handful of slow-release granular fertilizer to help get your lavender growing well before the winter cold snap.
Preventing Woody Lavender
Prevention is always easier than cure. If you have young, healthy lavender plants, you can work at preventing woody lavender with appropriate planting and cultural care. The keys to lavender care are good drainage and minimal fertilizer. Plant your lavender in well-drained, rocky soil, on a slope (if possible) to ensure drainage. Fertilize them lightly the very first year after planting. After that, do not fertilize regularly. Prune lavender lightly to maintain the rounded shape.
What to Do with Woody Lavender
When you notice that your lavender is woody, it’s time to take action to help it recover. Here’s what to do with woody lavender plants: prune them. Pruning woody lavender plants is the key to rejuvenating them. For restorative pruning, be sure to sterilize the pruners by soaking them in a solution of water and denatured alcohol to prevent disease spread. It’s also important that the tool blades are sharp. Prune these lavender in spring when all frost is finished for the season. A frost can kill off new plant growth.
How to Trim a Lavender with Woody Stems
It isn’t hard to learn how to trim a lavender with woody stems. The basic rule of pruning lavender is not to trim into brown, dead wood. You’ll usually find brown branches at the base of the plant. Remove them only when they are truly dead. Never cut them back, hoping to stimulate new growth. The plant cannot produce new growth from the woody parts. When you’re pruning woody lavender plants, it’s also a good idea not to prune all of the plant at the same time. Instead, work slowing, trimming back each branch but never into the brown wood. You can trim branches back by one-third or one-half. Always be sure that there are green leaves on the plant when you are done pruning. The entire restoration may take several years to accomplish, as you never want to do too much pruning at one time. Prune again in autumn just to shape the plant, then weed all around it and offer a handful of slow-release granular fertilizer to help get your lavender growing well before the winter cold snap.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
The scent is unmistakable but is your lavender really a lavender? You may have a hybrid of lavender called lavandin. Flower spikes, leaves and aroma can’t separate lavandin vs. lavender, but the size of the plants and the amount of camphor in the oil can give a clue as to which is which. Lavandin is most commonly referred to as French lavender and has a featured place in the perfume and cosmetics trade. We’ll go over some lavandin information so you can decide which is best, lavender or lavandin.
Lavandin Information
Lavandin is related to the common lavender, Lavandula augustifolia. What is lavandin? French lavender plants are sterile hybrid crosses between English lavender (L. augusifolia) and Portuguese lavender (L. latifolia). The result is Lavandula dentata, or lavandin.
There are many uses for lavandin, most in the cosmetics industry, due to the high amount of aromatic oils in the plant. Lavandin only produces flowers once per year, but the plant is filled with blooms and flowers which have a higher camphor content than English lavender. This makes it suited for aromatherapy treatments, cosmetics and cleaning products. Another difference with lavandin vs. lavender is the size of the bush. Lavandin tends to produce larger plants with more flowers at one time. The plants form small shrubs that may grow 16 to 18 inches in height and have spiked flowers in hues of lilac purple to violet blue. The foliage is grayish green and resinous.
Uses for Lavandin
The aromatherapy industry has made lavandin their own, with high demand for the extremely scented herb. Some of the major species for production of the oil are Grosso, Provenance, Phenomenal, and Giant Hidcote. While lavender is used for medicinal purposes as well as cosmetic, lavandin is too strong for medical applications. Therefore, it is bred strictly for its aromatic properties and was a large part of the French perfume industry. Lavandin can be used to repel insect pests and may be antiseptic, which makes it an excellent cleaner. The aroma itself is relaxing and helps relieve body aches and stress.
Lavandin Plant Care
Lavandin should be planted in a full sun location in well-draining soil. The plants are quite drought tolerant once established but best growth will be achieved by keeping lavandin evenly moist but never soggy. Prune plants when they are young to keep them from getting woody and unproductive over time. Prune stems back one third in early spring. After blooming, lightly shear the spent flower heads. With proper shearing and pruning, the plant can remain a tight mounded form with lively growth. Left alone and unpruned, many lavandin get woody and gradually stop producing flowers and even leaves. Lavandin is useful in either containers or in a bright spot in the garden. Harvest and dry the flowers to extend the scent and bring it into the home interior.
Lavandin Information
Lavandin is related to the common lavender, Lavandula augustifolia. What is lavandin? French lavender plants are sterile hybrid crosses between English lavender (L. augusifolia) and Portuguese lavender (L. latifolia). The result is Lavandula dentata, or lavandin.
There are many uses for lavandin, most in the cosmetics industry, due to the high amount of aromatic oils in the plant. Lavandin only produces flowers once per year, but the plant is filled with blooms and flowers which have a higher camphor content than English lavender. This makes it suited for aromatherapy treatments, cosmetics and cleaning products. Another difference with lavandin vs. lavender is the size of the bush. Lavandin tends to produce larger plants with more flowers at one time. The plants form small shrubs that may grow 16 to 18 inches in height and have spiked flowers in hues of lilac purple to violet blue. The foliage is grayish green and resinous.
Uses for Lavandin
The aromatherapy industry has made lavandin their own, with high demand for the extremely scented herb. Some of the major species for production of the oil are Grosso, Provenance, Phenomenal, and Giant Hidcote. While lavender is used for medicinal purposes as well as cosmetic, lavandin is too strong for medical applications. Therefore, it is bred strictly for its aromatic properties and was a large part of the French perfume industry. Lavandin can be used to repel insect pests and may be antiseptic, which makes it an excellent cleaner. The aroma itself is relaxing and helps relieve body aches and stress.
Lavandin Plant Care
Lavandin should be planted in a full sun location in well-draining soil. The plants are quite drought tolerant once established but best growth will be achieved by keeping lavandin evenly moist but never soggy. Prune plants when they are young to keep them from getting woody and unproductive over time. Prune stems back one third in early spring. After blooming, lightly shear the spent flower heads. With proper shearing and pruning, the plant can remain a tight mounded form with lively growth. Left alone and unpruned, many lavandin get woody and gradually stop producing flowers and even leaves. Lavandin is useful in either containers or in a bright spot in the garden. Harvest and dry the flowers to extend the scent and bring it into the home interior.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Companion planting is an easy and very effective way to make your garden the best it can be. It draws on a few different principles, like pairing plants that repel insects with those that suffer from them, and matching water and fertilizer needs. Lavender does have some specific requirements that mean it can only be planted in certain parts of the garden, but it’s also very good at protecting other plants from pests. Keep reading to learn more about the best planting companions for lavender.
Lavender Plant Companions
Lavender is very particular in its growing requirements. It needs full sun, little water, and little to no fertilizer. It’s usually happiest if left alone. This means that if you place it next to a plant that prefers more attention, one of them is going to suffer.
Some good plants to grow with lavender which share similar needs are:
Echinacea
Aster
Sedum
Wild indigo
Baby’s breath
Drought tolerant roses
These companions for lavender perform well in full sun and dry, less-than-rich soil. Gazania, another good choice, is a beautiful flowering plant from South Africa that fares especially well in poor, dry soils. Like lavender, it will really suffer if you pay too much attention to it. On top of being good companions for lavender based on their growing habits, these plants all also produce flowers that pair strikingly with its purple blossoms.
Some planting companions for lavender benefit greatly from having it nearby. Lavender is a natural repellant of moths, slugs, and deer. Any plants that suffer from these pests will benefit from having a lavender plant nearby. Fruit trees, in particular, which can be hit very hard by moths, tend to do much better when surrounded by lavender bushes. The same can be said for cabbage and broccoli, which often fall prey to slugs.
Lavender Plant Companions
Lavender is very particular in its growing requirements. It needs full sun, little water, and little to no fertilizer. It’s usually happiest if left alone. This means that if you place it next to a plant that prefers more attention, one of them is going to suffer.
Some good plants to grow with lavender which share similar needs are:
Echinacea
Aster
Sedum
Wild indigo
Baby’s breath
Drought tolerant roses
These companions for lavender perform well in full sun and dry, less-than-rich soil. Gazania, another good choice, is a beautiful flowering plant from South Africa that fares especially well in poor, dry soils. Like lavender, it will really suffer if you pay too much attention to it. On top of being good companions for lavender based on their growing habits, these plants all also produce flowers that pair strikingly with its purple blossoms.
Some planting companions for lavender benefit greatly from having it nearby. Lavender is a natural repellant of moths, slugs, and deer. Any plants that suffer from these pests will benefit from having a lavender plant nearby. Fruit trees, in particular, which can be hit very hard by moths, tend to do much better when surrounded by lavender bushes. The same can be said for cabbage and broccoli, which often fall prey to slugs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Horseradish is a plant that can grow anywhere once started. This trait makes it both an easy to grow herb and an unwanted invasive that leaves gardeners wondering how to eliminate horseradish plants. When it comes to trying to get rid of horseradish, most people have difficulty doing so because of its hardiness. Keep reading to learn more about how to kill horseradish plants or to simply control them.
Tips for Controlling Horseradish
If you have had difficulty controlling horseradish, there are a few things to remember. First of all, horseradish is one of those plants that grows from cultivars. This means that the smallest piece of root can yield plants. Controlling horseradish is difficult because of this hardy trait.
Basically, controlling horseradish is best done by digging up as much of the plant as possible, including the roots, every year. By doing this, you can eliminate some of the plants, and make a good attempt at keeping these plants in the area you want it located instead of allowing it to spread. One way to keep your horseradish under control is to prepare the area before you even plant it. Sometimes using a large barrel or bucket underground to plant the roots in will help to keep the horseradish reined into one area of your yard or garden. Controlling horseradish is easier than killing it, so preparation before planting is probably the best control chance you will get.
How to Kill Horseradish Plants
When you are thinking about killing horseradish plants, your best bet is to dig them up as much as possible first. There is no chemical or natural agent that will kill the plant completely if it is growing wildly. Killing horseradish plants isn’t difficult, but it is tedious because you have to keep up on it. If you are trying to eliminate horseradish plants, you should realize that digging up the roots is the best way to eliminate as much as possible. Once you do that, you can wait and see what grows and use a chemical or natural weed killing agent on the area to kill off the rest. This process will need to be repeated until the plant does not come back. Instead of killing horseradish, consider camouflaging it. Depending on how large a patch of plants you have, eliminating horseradish is best done by just mowing over the area and planting some grass seed among the mowed plants. This way, the plant isn’t eliminated, but it is controlled and it should stop spreading if you keep it mowed.
Eliminating horseradish can be done, but be aware that if you want to get rid of horseradish, you’ll probably have to do a lot of work. This includes digging, chopping, cutting and spraying. One final note on how to kill horseradish plants: do not try using a rototiller to eliminate horseradish plants. Rototilling doesn’t work because it just makes a whole bunch of root pieces in the ground; each makes a new plant and makes it easier for the horseradish to spread.
Tips for Controlling Horseradish
If you have had difficulty controlling horseradish, there are a few things to remember. First of all, horseradish is one of those plants that grows from cultivars. This means that the smallest piece of root can yield plants. Controlling horseradish is difficult because of this hardy trait.
Basically, controlling horseradish is best done by digging up as much of the plant as possible, including the roots, every year. By doing this, you can eliminate some of the plants, and make a good attempt at keeping these plants in the area you want it located instead of allowing it to spread. One way to keep your horseradish under control is to prepare the area before you even plant it. Sometimes using a large barrel or bucket underground to plant the roots in will help to keep the horseradish reined into one area of your yard or garden. Controlling horseradish is easier than killing it, so preparation before planting is probably the best control chance you will get.
How to Kill Horseradish Plants
When you are thinking about killing horseradish plants, your best bet is to dig them up as much as possible first. There is no chemical or natural agent that will kill the plant completely if it is growing wildly. Killing horseradish plants isn’t difficult, but it is tedious because you have to keep up on it. If you are trying to eliminate horseradish plants, you should realize that digging up the roots is the best way to eliminate as much as possible. Once you do that, you can wait and see what grows and use a chemical or natural weed killing agent on the area to kill off the rest. This process will need to be repeated until the plant does not come back. Instead of killing horseradish, consider camouflaging it. Depending on how large a patch of plants you have, eliminating horseradish is best done by just mowing over the area and planting some grass seed among the mowed plants. This way, the plant isn’t eliminated, but it is controlled and it should stop spreading if you keep it mowed.
Eliminating horseradish can be done, but be aware that if you want to get rid of horseradish, you’ll probably have to do a lot of work. This includes digging, chopping, cutting and spraying. One final note on how to kill horseradish plants: do not try using a rototiller to eliminate horseradish plants. Rototilling doesn’t work because it just makes a whole bunch of root pieces in the ground; each makes a new plant and makes it easier for the horseradish to spread.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
If you are a lover of all things spicy, you should be growing your own horseradish. Horseradish (Amoracia rusticana) is a hardy perennial herb that has been popular for over 3,000 years. Harvesting horseradish plants is a simple task and the resulting condiment can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks. Keep reading to find out how and when to harvest horseradish root.
When to Harvest Horseradish
Horseradish is cultivated for its pungent root. The plant is a large leaved herb that thrives in full sun but tolerates some shade. Hardy to USDA zone 3, horseradish is resistant to most diseases and adaptable to many soil types.
Plant horseradish in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Prepare the soil by digging down 8-10 inches and incorporating a generous amount of compost. Amend the soil further with either a 10-10-10 fertilizer in the amount of one pound per 100 square feet or well decayed manure. Let the plot stand undisturbed for a few days before planting the horseradish. Set the horseradish root cuttings or “sets” either vertically or at a 45-degree angle, spaced one foot apart from each other. Cover the roots with 2-3 inches of soil. Mulch around the plants with compost or leaves to help retain moisture, cool the soil and control weeds. You can then leave the plants to grow with little other maintenance other than weeding and water or you can strip the roots. Stripping the roots will give you the best horseradish roots. To do this, remove the soil around the upper ends of the main root, leaving the other roots undisturbed. Remove all but the healthiest sprout or leaves and rub off all the tiny roots from the crown and along the sides of the main root. Return the root to its hole and fill in with soil. Now that the horseradish is growing nicely, how do you know when it’s horseradish harvesting time? Horseradish growing season is during the late summer into early fall. So you won’t be harvesting horseradish plants until late October or early November, one year after planting.
How to Harvest Horseradish Root
Horseradish harvesting is a simple process. Dig a trench down a foot or two along one side of the row of plants. Dig the roots from the opposite side of the row, loosening them with a fork or shovel. Grasp the tops of the plants and tug them gently from the soil. Trim back the foliage, leaving about an inch. Trim off side and bottom roots. Save any that are 8 inches or longer for the following year’s planting stock. If you are overwintering planting stock, tie clean root cuttings together and store them in moist sand in a cool, dark area of between 32-40 degrees F. (0-4 C.). If you are storing the root for future culinary use, wash it and dry it well. Store the root in a perforated plastic bag in the vegetable crisper for 3 months or even longer…or go ahead and process it for use.
To process for use as a condiment, wash the root well and peel it. Cut into half inch slices and puree in a blender or food processer along with ¼ cup water and some crushed ice. If you like it hot, let the puree stand for three minutes and then add 2-3 tbs. of white wine or rice vinegar and ½ tsp of salt for each cup of horseradish puree. If you want a milder condiment, add the vinegar and salt immediately after pureeing. If it is too runny for your taste, use a fine meshed sieve or cheesecloth to drain out some of the liquid. The resulting condiment can be stored in a sealed container for up to 4-6 weeks in your refrigerator.
When to Harvest Horseradish
Horseradish is cultivated for its pungent root. The plant is a large leaved herb that thrives in full sun but tolerates some shade. Hardy to USDA zone 3, horseradish is resistant to most diseases and adaptable to many soil types.
Plant horseradish in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Prepare the soil by digging down 8-10 inches and incorporating a generous amount of compost. Amend the soil further with either a 10-10-10 fertilizer in the amount of one pound per 100 square feet or well decayed manure. Let the plot stand undisturbed for a few days before planting the horseradish. Set the horseradish root cuttings or “sets” either vertically or at a 45-degree angle, spaced one foot apart from each other. Cover the roots with 2-3 inches of soil. Mulch around the plants with compost or leaves to help retain moisture, cool the soil and control weeds. You can then leave the plants to grow with little other maintenance other than weeding and water or you can strip the roots. Stripping the roots will give you the best horseradish roots. To do this, remove the soil around the upper ends of the main root, leaving the other roots undisturbed. Remove all but the healthiest sprout or leaves and rub off all the tiny roots from the crown and along the sides of the main root. Return the root to its hole and fill in with soil. Now that the horseradish is growing nicely, how do you know when it’s horseradish harvesting time? Horseradish growing season is during the late summer into early fall. So you won’t be harvesting horseradish plants until late October or early November, one year after planting.
How to Harvest Horseradish Root
Horseradish harvesting is a simple process. Dig a trench down a foot or two along one side of the row of plants. Dig the roots from the opposite side of the row, loosening them with a fork or shovel. Grasp the tops of the plants and tug them gently from the soil. Trim back the foliage, leaving about an inch. Trim off side and bottom roots. Save any that are 8 inches or longer for the following year’s planting stock. If you are overwintering planting stock, tie clean root cuttings together and store them in moist sand in a cool, dark area of between 32-40 degrees F. (0-4 C.). If you are storing the root for future culinary use, wash it and dry it well. Store the root in a perforated plastic bag in the vegetable crisper for 3 months or even longer…or go ahead and process it for use.
To process for use as a condiment, wash the root well and peel it. Cut into half inch slices and puree in a blender or food processer along with ¼ cup water and some crushed ice. If you like it hot, let the puree stand for three minutes and then add 2-3 tbs. of white wine or rice vinegar and ½ tsp of salt for each cup of horseradish puree. If you want a milder condiment, add the vinegar and salt immediately after pureeing. If it is too runny for your taste, use a fine meshed sieve or cheesecloth to drain out some of the liquid. The resulting condiment can be stored in a sealed container for up to 4-6 weeks in your refrigerator.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana) is an herbaceous perennial in the family Brassicaceae. Since the plants do not produce viable seeds, propagation of horseradish is via root or crown cuttings. These hardy plants can become quite invasive, so dividing horseradish plants becomes a necessity. The question is when to split horseradish roots. The following article contains information on how to divide a horseradish plant and other useful information on horseradish root division.
When to Split Horseradish Roots
Horseradish is suited for growing in USDA zones 4-8. The plant grows best in full sun to partial sun in warmer regions, in almost all soil types provided they are well-draining and highly fertile with a pH of 6.0-7.5, and thrive in cooler temperatures. Horseradish root division should occur when the leaves have been killed off by frost or late in the fall in warmer regions. If you live in a really warm area where ground temps stay above 40 degrees F. (4 C.) year round, horseradish can be grown as an annual and roots will be harvested and stored in the refrigerator until propagation of horseradish in the spring.
How to Divide a Horseradish Plant
Prior to dividing horseradish plants in the fall, prepare the planting site by weeding and raking out any large pieces of detritus. Amend the soil with 4 inches of compost and coarse sand, and dig it into a depth of one foot. Loosen the soil around the plants, about 3 inches out from the crown and down 10 inches into the soil. Lift the plants carefully from the ground with a fork or shovel. Brush off the large clumps of soil from the roots and then wash them with a garden hose to remove the remaining dirt. Let them dry in a shaded area. Wash a sharp gardening knife with hot soap and water and then sanitize with rubbing alcohol to remove any pathogens that might infect the roots prior to cutting into them. Dry the knife with a paper towel. Propagation of horseradish is done with either root or crown cuttings. Regions with short growing seasons should use the crown method. To create crown cuttings, slice the plant into equal portions with an even share of foliage and roots. For root cuttings, slice the slender side roots into 6- to 8-inch long sections, each with a diameter of around ¼ inch.
In your prepared planting site, dig a hole that is deep enough to accommodate the root of the cutting. Plant the new horseradish plants 2 feet apart in rows that are 30 inches apart. Backfill around the plants until the root is covered. If using crown cuttings, fill in until the base of the stems are even with the rest of the bed. Water the cuttings in well, down to a 4-inch depth. Lay 3 inches of mulch down between the cuttings, leaving an inch between the mulch layer and the plants to help retain moisture. If you lack rain during the winter months, water each week down to a depth of an inch. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
When to Split Horseradish Roots
Horseradish is suited for growing in USDA zones 4-8. The plant grows best in full sun to partial sun in warmer regions, in almost all soil types provided they are well-draining and highly fertile with a pH of 6.0-7.5, and thrive in cooler temperatures. Horseradish root division should occur when the leaves have been killed off by frost or late in the fall in warmer regions. If you live in a really warm area where ground temps stay above 40 degrees F. (4 C.) year round, horseradish can be grown as an annual and roots will be harvested and stored in the refrigerator until propagation of horseradish in the spring.
How to Divide a Horseradish Plant
Prior to dividing horseradish plants in the fall, prepare the planting site by weeding and raking out any large pieces of detritus. Amend the soil with 4 inches of compost and coarse sand, and dig it into a depth of one foot. Loosen the soil around the plants, about 3 inches out from the crown and down 10 inches into the soil. Lift the plants carefully from the ground with a fork or shovel. Brush off the large clumps of soil from the roots and then wash them with a garden hose to remove the remaining dirt. Let them dry in a shaded area. Wash a sharp gardening knife with hot soap and water and then sanitize with rubbing alcohol to remove any pathogens that might infect the roots prior to cutting into them. Dry the knife with a paper towel. Propagation of horseradish is done with either root or crown cuttings. Regions with short growing seasons should use the crown method. To create crown cuttings, slice the plant into equal portions with an even share of foliage and roots. For root cuttings, slice the slender side roots into 6- to 8-inch long sections, each with a diameter of around ¼ inch.
In your prepared planting site, dig a hole that is deep enough to accommodate the root of the cutting. Plant the new horseradish plants 2 feet apart in rows that are 30 inches apart. Backfill around the plants until the root is covered. If using crown cuttings, fill in until the base of the stems are even with the rest of the bed. Water the cuttings in well, down to a 4-inch depth. Lay 3 inches of mulch down between the cuttings, leaving an inch between the mulch layer and the plants to help retain moisture. If you lack rain during the winter months, water each week down to a depth of an inch. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
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