文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
There are plenty of herbs that you can plant in your herb garden, but the easiest herb to grow, tastiest and most popular has to be basil. There are a couple of ways for propagating basil plants and both of them are quite simple. Let’s look at how to propagate basil.
Planting Basil Seeds
When it comes to planting basil seeds, make sure you’re planting basil seeds in an area where they will get six to eight hours of sunshine daily. The soil should have a neutral pH so that they have the best chance of growing. Simply plant the seeds in a row and cover with about 1/4-inch of soil. Once the plants grow to a few inches in height, thin them out to 6 to 12 inches apart.
Planting Basil Seeds Indoors
You can plant your basil indoors as well. Be sure the pot is placed in an area where it will get daily sunshine and water your basil every seven to 10 days.
How to Propagate Basil from Cuttings
Basil propagation from cuttings is quite simple. In fact, propagating basil is one way to share your basil with your friends. All you need to do is take a 4-inch basil cutting right below a leaf node. Remove the leaves off the basil cutting about 2 inches from the end. Make sure the basil cutting is a piece that has not yet flowered. Your basil cutting can then be placed in a glass of water on the windowsill where it can get good sunlight. Use a clear glass so you can watch your basil propagation grow roots. Change the water every few days until you see root growth, then leave your basil propagation roots to grow to about 2 inches or so. This can take two to four weeks.
Once the roots on your basil cutting are 2 inches or longer, you can plant the cutting in a pot indoors. Put the planter in a place where the plant will get direct sunlight. Basil propagation is a great way to share your basil. Now that you know how to propagate basil, you can take new plantings and give them as gifts to friends or offer them to new neighbors as housewarming gifts.
Planting Basil Seeds
When it comes to planting basil seeds, make sure you’re planting basil seeds in an area where they will get six to eight hours of sunshine daily. The soil should have a neutral pH so that they have the best chance of growing. Simply plant the seeds in a row and cover with about 1/4-inch of soil. Once the plants grow to a few inches in height, thin them out to 6 to 12 inches apart.
Planting Basil Seeds Indoors
You can plant your basil indoors as well. Be sure the pot is placed in an area where it will get daily sunshine and water your basil every seven to 10 days.
How to Propagate Basil from Cuttings
Basil propagation from cuttings is quite simple. In fact, propagating basil is one way to share your basil with your friends. All you need to do is take a 4-inch basil cutting right below a leaf node. Remove the leaves off the basil cutting about 2 inches from the end. Make sure the basil cutting is a piece that has not yet flowered. Your basil cutting can then be placed in a glass of water on the windowsill where it can get good sunlight. Use a clear glass so you can watch your basil propagation grow roots. Change the water every few days until you see root growth, then leave your basil propagation roots to grow to about 2 inches or so. This can take two to four weeks.
Once the roots on your basil cutting are 2 inches or longer, you can plant the cutting in a pot indoors. Put the planter in a place where the plant will get direct sunlight. Basil propagation is a great way to share your basil. Now that you know how to propagate basil, you can take new plantings and give them as gifts to friends or offer them to new neighbors as housewarming gifts.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
With their lovely purple stems and purple-veined leaves on a shiny, dark green background, Thai basil plants are grown not only for their culinary uses but also as an ornamental specimen. Keep reading for more information on Thai basil uses.
About Thai Basil Plants
Thai basil (Ocimum basilicum var. thyrsiflora) is a member of the mint family and as such has a particular sweet flavor reminiscent of anise, licorice and clove. Popular among the cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, growing Thai basil has a pleasing aroma similar to sweet basil and is generally used fresh in recipes. Also referred to as ‘Sweet Thai,’ Thai basil plants grow to a height of between 12 to 18 inches with leaves 1 to 2 inches long on purple stems with purple flowers. Like sweet basil, Thai basil is a perennial.How to Plant Thai Basil
If we look at how to plant Thai basil in the home garden, our first concern is obtaining the plants. Thai basil can be purchased from the nursery or started from seed. If the choice is to purchase from the nursery, pick up a rosemary plant as well. Rosemary and Thai basil work well planted together as they enjoy similar well-drained soil, water, and fertilization. Handle the plants carefully, as they are quite delicate. Plant the new basil in a sunny area, water in and fertilize with a nutrient rich fish emulsion or seaweed solution two to three times during their active growing season. Sun is a key ingredient. Thai basil plants need at least six hours of direct sunlight to flourish. Water weekly but keep the water off the leaves; water from the base. Over-watering will cause the leaves to yellow and drop and under-watering will make flowers and buds suffer, so it is important to attain a balance when watering Thai basil.
Harvesting Thai Basil
When harvesting Thai basil, remember to be gentle as the leaves bruise easily and you don’t want that to happen until you are going to use them. Harvest the leaves in the morning when their essential oils are at their peak and the flavor of the growing Thai basil will be at a premium. Also, water the Thai basil prior to harvest to intensify the flavor. Growing Thai basil tends to be more compact than other types of basil, so harvest at the top of a group of leaves; otherwise, the stem will rot. If you make a mistake, cut the stem all the way back to the next set of leaves. Unless, you are growing Thai basil as an ornamental, cut the flower off several days before harvest so the plant can focus all its energy on the leaves. When you harvest your growing Thai basil plant, take it down to about 6 inches.
Thai Basil Uses
Now that you have harvested the basil, what are you going to do with it? Some Thai basil uses are to infuse with vinegar or oil, to flavor Pho with mint and chilies, make tea, or pair with most any chicken, pork or beef dish. Recipes online include one for making Thai basil beer and a recipe for Thai basil pesto with peanuts, rice vinegar, fish sauce and sesame oil, which will keep in the refrigerator for a week. Yum! Thai basil is usually used fresh, preferably soon after harvesting, but you can also chop it up or run it through a food processor and freeze in ice cube trays. Once frozen, remove from the tray and store in resealable bags in the freezer for up to two months. Thai basil may also be used as an aromatherapy treatment by bruising the leaves and inhaling their aroma. They can also be bruised and rubbed beneath the eyes and on the forehead for a relaxing reprieve from a long stressful day.
About Thai Basil Plants
Thai basil (Ocimum basilicum var. thyrsiflora) is a member of the mint family and as such has a particular sweet flavor reminiscent of anise, licorice and clove. Popular among the cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, growing Thai basil has a pleasing aroma similar to sweet basil and is generally used fresh in recipes. Also referred to as ‘Sweet Thai,’ Thai basil plants grow to a height of between 12 to 18 inches with leaves 1 to 2 inches long on purple stems with purple flowers. Like sweet basil, Thai basil is a perennial.How to Plant Thai Basil
If we look at how to plant Thai basil in the home garden, our first concern is obtaining the plants. Thai basil can be purchased from the nursery or started from seed. If the choice is to purchase from the nursery, pick up a rosemary plant as well. Rosemary and Thai basil work well planted together as they enjoy similar well-drained soil, water, and fertilization. Handle the plants carefully, as they are quite delicate. Plant the new basil in a sunny area, water in and fertilize with a nutrient rich fish emulsion or seaweed solution two to three times during their active growing season. Sun is a key ingredient. Thai basil plants need at least six hours of direct sunlight to flourish. Water weekly but keep the water off the leaves; water from the base. Over-watering will cause the leaves to yellow and drop and under-watering will make flowers and buds suffer, so it is important to attain a balance when watering Thai basil.
Harvesting Thai Basil
When harvesting Thai basil, remember to be gentle as the leaves bruise easily and you don’t want that to happen until you are going to use them. Harvest the leaves in the morning when their essential oils are at their peak and the flavor of the growing Thai basil will be at a premium. Also, water the Thai basil prior to harvest to intensify the flavor. Growing Thai basil tends to be more compact than other types of basil, so harvest at the top of a group of leaves; otherwise, the stem will rot. If you make a mistake, cut the stem all the way back to the next set of leaves. Unless, you are growing Thai basil as an ornamental, cut the flower off several days before harvest so the plant can focus all its energy on the leaves. When you harvest your growing Thai basil plant, take it down to about 6 inches.
Thai Basil Uses
Now that you have harvested the basil, what are you going to do with it? Some Thai basil uses are to infuse with vinegar or oil, to flavor Pho with mint and chilies, make tea, or pair with most any chicken, pork or beef dish. Recipes online include one for making Thai basil beer and a recipe for Thai basil pesto with peanuts, rice vinegar, fish sauce and sesame oil, which will keep in the refrigerator for a week. Yum! Thai basil is usually used fresh, preferably soon after harvesting, but you can also chop it up or run it through a food processor and freeze in ice cube trays. Once frozen, remove from the tray and store in resealable bags in the freezer for up to two months. Thai basil may also be used as an aromatherapy treatment by bruising the leaves and inhaling their aroma. They can also be bruised and rubbed beneath the eyes and on the forehead for a relaxing reprieve from a long stressful day.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Herbal plants have many beneficial properties. Some herbs are useful companion plants that prevent pest problems. It is said that basil can keep flies from pestering you. Does basil keep flies away? Let’s separate the fact from the fiction and get an answer to the pesky question regarding basil and flies. Basil is one of the warm season herbs that are classics in summertime cooking. The plant requires plenty of sun and heat but basil can be grown indoors by a southern window for convenience. There are many varieties of basil, adding a twist on the plant’s flavor in essences of citrus, licorice, cinnamon and spice.
Flies on Basil
The intense scent and oil in basil and many other herbs are often used to deter common household pests. The pungent herb seems to repel flies and basil pest control has been used since ancient times. Basil is intolerant of cold temperatures and needs a full day of sunlight. The plants are useful as potted herbs in a sunny, bright kitchen or outside in the warm summer months around the vegetable or herb garden. Potted basil plants require well-drained soil and should not be allowed to stand in a dish of water. Soggy soil attracts small gnats and basil plant flies which are annoying and difficult to remove.
Outdoor basil plants are susceptible to whiteflies in spite of their ability to repel domestic house flies. Repeated applications of a horticultural soap may help get rid of basil plant flies. Basil pest control seems to have limited effectiveness when the pests are actually on the plant!
Does Basil Keep Flies Away? Most herbs with strong oil content and scent appear to have some repellent properties for domestic pests. Basil contains very heady oil and is useful in the kitchen to keep small gnats and flies out of food. Small moisture gnats that live in the soil of potted plants are also foiled by mixing in some dried basil to the soil. The plant doesn’t kill flies, but anything that prevents them from contaminating the kitchen and food and is non-toxic is a useful product.
In a nutshell, information on basil and flies is more in the form of folklore. That being said, you can try the basil method because the worst thing that can happen is you have a fresh lovely herb to use. The best is a pest-free kitchen.
Flies on Basil
The intense scent and oil in basil and many other herbs are often used to deter common household pests. The pungent herb seems to repel flies and basil pest control has been used since ancient times. Basil is intolerant of cold temperatures and needs a full day of sunlight. The plants are useful as potted herbs in a sunny, bright kitchen or outside in the warm summer months around the vegetable or herb garden. Potted basil plants require well-drained soil and should not be allowed to stand in a dish of water. Soggy soil attracts small gnats and basil plant flies which are annoying and difficult to remove.
Outdoor basil plants are susceptible to whiteflies in spite of their ability to repel domestic house flies. Repeated applications of a horticultural soap may help get rid of basil plant flies. Basil pest control seems to have limited effectiveness when the pests are actually on the plant!
Does Basil Keep Flies Away? Most herbs with strong oil content and scent appear to have some repellent properties for domestic pests. Basil contains very heady oil and is useful in the kitchen to keep small gnats and flies out of food. Small moisture gnats that live in the soil of potted plants are also foiled by mixing in some dried basil to the soil. The plant doesn’t kill flies, but anything that prevents them from contaminating the kitchen and food and is non-toxic is a useful product.
In a nutshell, information on basil and flies is more in the form of folklore. That being said, you can try the basil method because the worst thing that can happen is you have a fresh lovely herb to use. The best is a pest-free kitchen.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Herb growing requires a minimum of care, as the plants are normally fast growing and many of them already have some insect resistance due to the high amounts of essential oil in the leaves. Still, even these rather trouble-free plants can end up with issues. One such problem is bitter basil leaves. 
Bitter Tasting Basil Leaves
A member of the Lamiaceae (mint) family, basil (Ocimum basilicum) is renowned for its aromatic and sweet tasting leaves. The herb is cultivated for the use of these leaves, which are high in essential oils and impart delicate flavor and aroma to a multitude of cuisines. It can be used either fresh or dried, although most people agree that dried basil doesn’t hold a candle to fresh basil. The most common basil grown is Sweet or Italian basil and is responsible for one of the great sauces of the world — pesto. However, there are many varieties of basil to choose from, imparting unique flavor such as cinnamon, anise and lemon to the evening’s menu. Since basil is usually a fairly mild, sweet tasting herb, what would cause bitter tasting basil?
Reasons for Basil Going Bitter
Basil is a tender annual best grown in a sunny area with six to eight hours of direct sun exposure per day. Plant basil in well-drained soil amended with organic compost. Basil seeds can be sown directly into the garden after all danger of frost has passed or started indoors in trays to be transplanted when the seedlings have at least two leaf sets. Seeds should be barely set beneath the soil, about ¼ inch deep and lightly covered. Water the seeds in. Germination takes place within five to seven days. Thin or transplant basil seedlings so they have a space of between 6 to 12 inches between individual plants. Container grown basil needs to be watered more frequently, but garden or container grown basil should be kept moist. Feed your basil herb with an organic fertilizer.
If you have followed the above instructions and still have bitter basil plants, the following causes could be to blame:
Pruning
The primary culprit is lack of pruning. Basil needs regular pruning or cutting back to facilitate a robust, bushy plant with plenty of aromatic leaves. Another reason for pruning is to prevent the herb from blooming. Although blooming basil has ornamental value, in culinary terms it can be a disaster. Be vigilant and, at the first sign that the plant is trying to bloom, pinch the flowers off. Basil that is allowed to flower and form seed stops producing foliage and results in bitter tasting basil leaves. Pruning can be fairly aggressive, down to just above the lowest two sets of leaves. Snip at the node, just above a pair of leaves. Aggressive pruning will prevent the plant from trying to flower as well as engendering more flourishing foliage. You can prune this severely every three to four weeks.
Variety
If your basil plant is bitter, another reason may just be the variety. With over 60 varieties of basil available, it is possible, especially if you are not sure of the cultivar, that you may have planted one with unexpected flavor profiles. For instance, a cinnamon basil or spicy globe basil may yield a totally unexpected flavor, especially when your taste buds were expecting sweet basil.
Bitter Tasting Basil Leaves
A member of the Lamiaceae (mint) family, basil (Ocimum basilicum) is renowned for its aromatic and sweet tasting leaves. The herb is cultivated for the use of these leaves, which are high in essential oils and impart delicate flavor and aroma to a multitude of cuisines. It can be used either fresh or dried, although most people agree that dried basil doesn’t hold a candle to fresh basil. The most common basil grown is Sweet or Italian basil and is responsible for one of the great sauces of the world — pesto. However, there are many varieties of basil to choose from, imparting unique flavor such as cinnamon, anise and lemon to the evening’s menu. Since basil is usually a fairly mild, sweet tasting herb, what would cause bitter tasting basil?
Reasons for Basil Going Bitter
Basil is a tender annual best grown in a sunny area with six to eight hours of direct sun exposure per day. Plant basil in well-drained soil amended with organic compost. Basil seeds can be sown directly into the garden after all danger of frost has passed or started indoors in trays to be transplanted when the seedlings have at least two leaf sets. Seeds should be barely set beneath the soil, about ¼ inch deep and lightly covered. Water the seeds in. Germination takes place within five to seven days. Thin or transplant basil seedlings so they have a space of between 6 to 12 inches between individual plants. Container grown basil needs to be watered more frequently, but garden or container grown basil should be kept moist. Feed your basil herb with an organic fertilizer.
If you have followed the above instructions and still have bitter basil plants, the following causes could be to blame:
Pruning
The primary culprit is lack of pruning. Basil needs regular pruning or cutting back to facilitate a robust, bushy plant with plenty of aromatic leaves. Another reason for pruning is to prevent the herb from blooming. Although blooming basil has ornamental value, in culinary terms it can be a disaster. Be vigilant and, at the first sign that the plant is trying to bloom, pinch the flowers off. Basil that is allowed to flower and form seed stops producing foliage and results in bitter tasting basil leaves. Pruning can be fairly aggressive, down to just above the lowest two sets of leaves. Snip at the node, just above a pair of leaves. Aggressive pruning will prevent the plant from trying to flower as well as engendering more flourishing foliage. You can prune this severely every three to four weeks.
Variety
If your basil plant is bitter, another reason may just be the variety. With over 60 varieties of basil available, it is possible, especially if you are not sure of the cultivar, that you may have planted one with unexpected flavor profiles. For instance, a cinnamon basil or spicy globe basil may yield a totally unexpected flavor, especially when your taste buds were expecting sweet basil.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Basil is a wonderfully versatile annual herb that is native to southern Asia and the islands of the South Pacific. As with other herbs, basil is easy to grow and with ideal conditions quite prolific. Even so, basil plants can have a number of issues; among these are basil plants with woody stems. If you have basil stems turning into wood, read on to learn about troubleshooting woody stems in basil.
How to Avoid Basil with Woody Stems
Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. Basil is grown primarily for its tender, young leaves which are used either fresh or dried in Asian and European foods. Proper planting and ongoing care of basil gives it the best chance to flourish and avoid disease and pests.
Basil, like most herbs, likes lot of sunshine, at least six to eight hours per day. Propagation by seed is simple. You can direct sow into the garden after all danger of frost has passed or start seeds early indoors (six to eight weeks prior to planting outside). Sow the seeds evenly and cover them with ¼-inch of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Within five to seven days, you’ll see the seedlings begin to emerge. Keep the seedlings moist but not drenched or they may develop a fungal disease called damping-off. When the seedlings have two or three pairs of leaves, thin them or transplant them 6-12 inches apart. Mulch around the plants with grass clippings, straw, compost or ground leaves to help retain moisture and retard weeds.
Water the basil every seven to 10 days, depending upon rainfall. If the plants are in containers, they may need additional water. Lightly fertilize basil with a 5-10-5 food once or twice at the rate of 3 ounces for every 10 feet of planting space. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the recommended strength every four to six weeks for indoor basil and every three to four weeks for basil that is grown outside in containers. Follow all of the above and you should have an abundance of lovely, aromatic basil leaves to harvest. But what happens if you start getting woody basil plants?
Troubleshooting Woody Stems in Basil
Basil, unlike some plants, actually loves to have a little taken off the top. You can harvest as soon as the plant is a few inches tall. Snip young leaves or, if you are harvesting an entire stem, cut above a pair of leaves. This encourages new growth at the cut which should be visible within a week. Keep trimming the basil throughout the growing season to encourage growth. If you can’t use the basil immediately, hang stems to dry or freeze the basil in ice cube trays for later use. Puree the basil with either a little water or olive oil, put the puree in the tray, freeze, and then pop them out and store the cubes in the freezer in an airtight container for later use. The important thing is to keep pruning your basil. If you don’t, the plant will flower and form seed which, in turn, causes the stems to become woody. The leaves will turn bitter as well. If you’re growing the basil as an ornamental for its attractive foliage and flowers, then you probably don’t care if the basil stems are turning into wood. If, however, you love those succulent young leaves, keep snipping. Old stems that have not been cut back also turn woody just as a plant that has been allowed to flower. Do keep in mind that basil is an annual. You can extend its life a bit by bringing the plant inside when the weather begins to get cold, but it will eventually die. Woody basil plants simply mean that the plant is protecting itself from the dipping temps. If you bring it inside, give it plenty of light. Production will slow in the winter, but you should still be able to harvest some delectable fresh basil leaves to enliven your winter meals.
How to Avoid Basil with Woody Stems
Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. Basil is grown primarily for its tender, young leaves which are used either fresh or dried in Asian and European foods. Proper planting and ongoing care of basil gives it the best chance to flourish and avoid disease and pests.
Basil, like most herbs, likes lot of sunshine, at least six to eight hours per day. Propagation by seed is simple. You can direct sow into the garden after all danger of frost has passed or start seeds early indoors (six to eight weeks prior to planting outside). Sow the seeds evenly and cover them with ¼-inch of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Within five to seven days, you’ll see the seedlings begin to emerge. Keep the seedlings moist but not drenched or they may develop a fungal disease called damping-off. When the seedlings have two or three pairs of leaves, thin them or transplant them 6-12 inches apart. Mulch around the plants with grass clippings, straw, compost or ground leaves to help retain moisture and retard weeds.
Water the basil every seven to 10 days, depending upon rainfall. If the plants are in containers, they may need additional water. Lightly fertilize basil with a 5-10-5 food once or twice at the rate of 3 ounces for every 10 feet of planting space. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the recommended strength every four to six weeks for indoor basil and every three to four weeks for basil that is grown outside in containers. Follow all of the above and you should have an abundance of lovely, aromatic basil leaves to harvest. But what happens if you start getting woody basil plants?
Troubleshooting Woody Stems in Basil
Basil, unlike some plants, actually loves to have a little taken off the top. You can harvest as soon as the plant is a few inches tall. Snip young leaves or, if you are harvesting an entire stem, cut above a pair of leaves. This encourages new growth at the cut which should be visible within a week. Keep trimming the basil throughout the growing season to encourage growth. If you can’t use the basil immediately, hang stems to dry or freeze the basil in ice cube trays for later use. Puree the basil with either a little water or olive oil, put the puree in the tray, freeze, and then pop them out and store the cubes in the freezer in an airtight container for later use. The important thing is to keep pruning your basil. If you don’t, the plant will flower and form seed which, in turn, causes the stems to become woody. The leaves will turn bitter as well. If you’re growing the basil as an ornamental for its attractive foliage and flowers, then you probably don’t care if the basil stems are turning into wood. If, however, you love those succulent young leaves, keep snipping. Old stems that have not been cut back also turn woody just as a plant that has been allowed to flower. Do keep in mind that basil is an annual. You can extend its life a bit by bringing the plant inside when the weather begins to get cold, but it will eventually die. Woody basil plants simply mean that the plant is protecting itself from the dipping temps. If you bring it inside, give it plenty of light. Production will slow in the winter, but you should still be able to harvest some delectable fresh basil leaves to enliven your winter meals.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is often referred to as the king of herbs. Basil plants are certainly one of the most popular herbs grown in the home garden. Growing basil outdoors or in a container is very easy to do if you follow these simple steps for how to grow basil.
Tips for Growing Basil
Choose a location with great drainage. Whether you’re growing basil outdoors in the ground or in a container, the drainage needs to be excellent.
Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight. Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors.
Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight. Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors. If you choose growing basil seeds, scatter the seeds over the location that you have chosen and lightly cover with dirt. Water thoroughly. Thin to 6 inches apart once the seedling come up. If you choose growing basil plants, dig a small hole, tease out the root ball some and plant the basil plant in the ground. Water thoroughly. Wait till the temperature is right. When growing basil outdoors, it is very important to remember that basil is very sensitive to cold and even a light frost will kill it. Do not plant seeds or basil plants until all danger of frost has passed.
Harvest often. The trick to how to grow basil that is large and abundant is to harvest often. The more you harvest basil, the more the plant will grow. When harvesting, pinch off the stem right above where a pair of leaves are growing. After you harvest, two more stems will start to grow, which means twice the leaves next time you harvest! Remove flowers. Once a basil plant flowers, the leaves start to lose their good flavor. If you remove any flowers, the leaves will get their good flavor back in just a day or so. As you can see, proper basil plant care is easy. Knowing how to grow basil will provide you with large amounts of this tasty herb.
Tips for Growing Basil
Choose a location with great drainage. Whether you’re growing basil outdoors in the ground or in a container, the drainage needs to be excellent.
Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight. Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors.
Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight. Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors. If you choose growing basil seeds, scatter the seeds over the location that you have chosen and lightly cover with dirt. Water thoroughly. Thin to 6 inches apart once the seedling come up. If you choose growing basil plants, dig a small hole, tease out the root ball some and plant the basil plant in the ground. Water thoroughly. Wait till the temperature is right. When growing basil outdoors, it is very important to remember that basil is very sensitive to cold and even a light frost will kill it. Do not plant seeds or basil plants until all danger of frost has passed.
Harvest often. The trick to how to grow basil that is large and abundant is to harvest often. The more you harvest basil, the more the plant will grow. When harvesting, pinch off the stem right above where a pair of leaves are growing. After you harvest, two more stems will start to grow, which means twice the leaves next time you harvest! Remove flowers. Once a basil plant flowers, the leaves start to lose their good flavor. If you remove any flowers, the leaves will get their good flavor back in just a day or so. As you can see, proper basil plant care is easy. Knowing how to grow basil will provide you with large amounts of this tasty herb.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
ZZ plant is a slow growing, reliable performer that is doggedly loyal even when you mistreat it. It is such an easy plant that creating more of them to share with friends and family seems like a good idea. Propagating ZZ plants is easy but can take up nine months or more. Learn how to root ZZ plant cuttings for a better chance at success.
ZZ Plant Leaf Propagation
It is common to find a ZZ plant in an office setting with low light and no fresh air. The uncomplaining plant, Zamioculcus zamiifolia, is also known as eternity plant, fat boy, aroid palm and many more common names. It hails from the Southeast coast of Africa and has been an important houseplant in the industry for years. ZZ plants grow from large thick rhizomes. Propagating ZZ plants is as easy as separating these or you can try rooting leaf cuttings.
Propagation of ZZ plants by division can only be done once in a while. This is because the plant produces new rhizomes very slowly and removing some frequently will damage the parent plant. Since rhizomes are slow, it is best to look at leaf cuttings as the source of material for propagation. Stems cuttings alone will not work well, but if you take a cutting with two leaves and a bit of stem, the rooting and growth is quicker than just a single leaf and no stem. ZZ plant leaf cuttings are the recommended method by professional growers and can result in new rhizomes in about 4 weeks when grown in nearly 80 degree Fahrenheit (26 C.) conditions. However, most of us don’t have greenhouse conditions so the process could take nine months or more.
Soil for ZZ Leaf Cuttings
Once you have the correct type of cutting, it is time to consider the medium. Some houseplants can root in just a glass of water; however, rooting ZZ plant in water will likely result in a rotten cutting and isn’t the best way to establish new plants. They need to be in well-drained soil or the newly forming rhizomes will mold and fall away. The best mixture for rooting is often one that is almost soilless. At best, it should have superior drainage. Try a good potting soil with plenty of vermiculite or perlite added into it or use a mixture of half peat and half perlite. The perlite or vermiculite will give the medium a light texture and help prevent soil from maintaining too much moisture.
How to Root ZZ Plant Cuttings
Take your ZZ plant leaf cuttings from mature stems. Allow the cut end to callus over for a few hours. Then insert it into your medium, cut end down. Place in a warm area with bright light during the day. Check for roots and rhizome formation after a month. Once you have a few tiny rootlets and the bud of a rhizome, you can transplant the cuttings to larger containers. It is a good idea to start many cuttings with ZZ plant leaf propagation because some of them may not take off. Additionally, checking to see if they have roots may actually kill the cutting, but if you have more than one you still have a chance of more ZZ plants. Be very patient. Some growers have mentioned the nine month period as the end of all your waiting, but it could take even longer if the cutting doesn’t have enough light and temperatures aren’t warm enough. Simply put the cuttings somewhere that you will remember to water them occasionally and wait it out. Over time, this slow grower will jump into action and provide you with the start of a new plant.
ZZ Plant Leaf Propagation
It is common to find a ZZ plant in an office setting with low light and no fresh air. The uncomplaining plant, Zamioculcus zamiifolia, is also known as eternity plant, fat boy, aroid palm and many more common names. It hails from the Southeast coast of Africa and has been an important houseplant in the industry for years. ZZ plants grow from large thick rhizomes. Propagating ZZ plants is as easy as separating these or you can try rooting leaf cuttings.
Propagation of ZZ plants by division can only be done once in a while. This is because the plant produces new rhizomes very slowly and removing some frequently will damage the parent plant. Since rhizomes are slow, it is best to look at leaf cuttings as the source of material for propagation. Stems cuttings alone will not work well, but if you take a cutting with two leaves and a bit of stem, the rooting and growth is quicker than just a single leaf and no stem. ZZ plant leaf cuttings are the recommended method by professional growers and can result in new rhizomes in about 4 weeks when grown in nearly 80 degree Fahrenheit (26 C.) conditions. However, most of us don’t have greenhouse conditions so the process could take nine months or more.
Soil for ZZ Leaf Cuttings
Once you have the correct type of cutting, it is time to consider the medium. Some houseplants can root in just a glass of water; however, rooting ZZ plant in water will likely result in a rotten cutting and isn’t the best way to establish new plants. They need to be in well-drained soil or the newly forming rhizomes will mold and fall away. The best mixture for rooting is often one that is almost soilless. At best, it should have superior drainage. Try a good potting soil with plenty of vermiculite or perlite added into it or use a mixture of half peat and half perlite. The perlite or vermiculite will give the medium a light texture and help prevent soil from maintaining too much moisture.
How to Root ZZ Plant Cuttings
Take your ZZ plant leaf cuttings from mature stems. Allow the cut end to callus over for a few hours. Then insert it into your medium, cut end down. Place in a warm area with bright light during the day. Check for roots and rhizome formation after a month. Once you have a few tiny rootlets and the bud of a rhizome, you can transplant the cuttings to larger containers. It is a good idea to start many cuttings with ZZ plant leaf propagation because some of them may not take off. Additionally, checking to see if they have roots may actually kill the cutting, but if you have more than one you still have a chance of more ZZ plants. Be very patient. Some growers have mentioned the nine month period as the end of all your waiting, but it could take even longer if the cutting doesn’t have enough light and temperatures aren’t warm enough. Simply put the cuttings somewhere that you will remember to water them occasionally and wait it out. Over time, this slow grower will jump into action and provide you with the start of a new plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Growing waffle plants as part of a dish garden or a mixed container provides unusual, cascading foliage with a purple color and metallic tint. Waffle plant info indicates that the plant, also known as red ivy or red flame ivy, grows easily indoors under the right growing conditions.
Growing Waffle Plants
Learning how to grow Hemigraphis alternata and other waffle plant species is fairly simple once you have it in the right location. Red ivy plant care requires that the plant get bright, but indirect light, meaning direct sunlight should not reach the foliage. When growing waffle plants in direct sun, much of the foliage color washes out and leaf tips can burn. Keep growing waffle plants away from drafts as well.
Waffle plant info says growing waffle plants need evenly moist soil. Consistent watering of well drained soil promotes growth and well-being of the waffle plant. However, do not allow roots of the plant to remain in a soggy soil.
Info also indicates high humidity is an integral part of red ivy plant care. Mist the plant regularly, or better yet, create a pebble tray to provide humidity to all your indoor plants. Place layers of pebbles in a plant saucer, or any container without drainage holes. Fill three-quarters of the way with water. Set the plants on top of the pebbles, or near the pebble tray. Indoor humidity is usually low, especially in winter. Pebble trays are an easy way to give your houseplants what they need. Waffle plant info says it is easy to get more growing waffle plants by propagating from stem cuttings. Take 4- to 6-inch stem pieces from the waffle plant, removing all but the top leaves, and place in small containers in moist soil.
Fertilize with a liquid houseplant food or granulated fertilizer. Water as needed to keep the soil moist and you should have rooted cuttings ready to transplant in seven to 10 days. Use the cuttings with compatible plants for more dish gardens. Now that you’ve learned how to grow Hemigraphis alternata, take advantage of its showy color in different houseplant combinations.
Growing Waffle Plants
Learning how to grow Hemigraphis alternata and other waffle plant species is fairly simple once you have it in the right location. Red ivy plant care requires that the plant get bright, but indirect light, meaning direct sunlight should not reach the foliage. When growing waffle plants in direct sun, much of the foliage color washes out and leaf tips can burn. Keep growing waffle plants away from drafts as well.
Waffle plant info says growing waffle plants need evenly moist soil. Consistent watering of well drained soil promotes growth and well-being of the waffle plant. However, do not allow roots of the plant to remain in a soggy soil.
Info also indicates high humidity is an integral part of red ivy plant care. Mist the plant regularly, or better yet, create a pebble tray to provide humidity to all your indoor plants. Place layers of pebbles in a plant saucer, or any container without drainage holes. Fill three-quarters of the way with water. Set the plants on top of the pebbles, or near the pebble tray. Indoor humidity is usually low, especially in winter. Pebble trays are an easy way to give your houseplants what they need. Waffle plant info says it is easy to get more growing waffle plants by propagating from stem cuttings. Take 4- to 6-inch stem pieces from the waffle plant, removing all but the top leaves, and place in small containers in moist soil.
Fertilize with a liquid houseplant food or granulated fertilizer. Water as needed to keep the soil moist and you should have rooted cuttings ready to transplant in seven to 10 days. Use the cuttings with compatible plants for more dish gardens. Now that you’ve learned how to grow Hemigraphis alternata, take advantage of its showy color in different houseplant combinations.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Carnivorous plants are endlessly fascinating. One such plant, the Venus flytrap, or Dionaea muscipula, is native to boggy areas of North and South Carolina. While the flytrap photosynthesizes and garners nutrients from the soil just as other plants, the fact is that boggy soil is less than nutritious. For this reason, the Venus flytrap has adapted to ingesting insects to round out its need for nutrients. If you are lucky enough to have one of these charmingly strange plants, you may have encountered some Venus flytrap problems – namely getting a Venus flytrap to close.
My Venus Flytrap Won’t Close
Probably the biggest reason your Venus flytrap does not snap shut is because it’s exhausted, sort of. The leaves of the flytrap have short, stiff cilia or trigger hairs. When something touches these hairs enough to bend them, the dual lobes of the leaves close, effectively trapping the “something” inside in less than a second.
There is a lifespan for these leaves, however. Ten to twelve times of snapping shut and they cease to function as trapping leaves and remain open, functioning as photosynthesizers. Chances are good that a store bought plant has already been jostled in transit and played with by any number of potential buyers and are just plain done. You will have to wait patiently for new traps to grow. It is also possible that the reason your Venus flytrap doesn’t snap shut is because it’s dying. Blackening leaves may signal this and are caused by bacteria, which may infect the trap if it hasn’t completely closed when feeding, as when an overly large bug is caught and it can’t shut tightly. A complete seal of the trap is needed to keep the digestive juices in and bacteria out. A dead plant will be brown-black, mushy, and have a rotting odor.
Getting a Venus Flytrap to Close
If you feed your Venus flytrap a dead insect, it will not struggle and signal the cilia to close. You have to manipulate the trap gently to simulate a live insect and allow the trap to snap shut. The trap then secretes digestive juices, dissolving the soft innards of the bug. After five to 12 days, the digestive process is completed, the trap opens and the exoskeleton is blown away or washed out with the rain. Getting your flytrap to close may be a matter of temperature regulation. Venus flytraps are sensitive to the cold which will cause the traps to close very slowly.
Keep in mind that the hairs on the traps or lamina have to be stimulated for the trap to shut. At least one hair must be touched twice or several hairs in rapid succession as when an insect is struggling. The plant can distinguish between a living insect and say, raindrops, and will not close for the latter. Lastly, like most plants, the Venus flytrap lies dormant during the fall through to the following spring. During this time period, the trap is in hibernation and has no need for additional nutrition; hence, the traps do not respond to stimulus. Overall green color in the leaves indicates the plant is simply resting and fasting and not dead.
My Venus Flytrap Won’t Close
Probably the biggest reason your Venus flytrap does not snap shut is because it’s exhausted, sort of. The leaves of the flytrap have short, stiff cilia or trigger hairs. When something touches these hairs enough to bend them, the dual lobes of the leaves close, effectively trapping the “something” inside in less than a second.
There is a lifespan for these leaves, however. Ten to twelve times of snapping shut and they cease to function as trapping leaves and remain open, functioning as photosynthesizers. Chances are good that a store bought plant has already been jostled in transit and played with by any number of potential buyers and are just plain done. You will have to wait patiently for new traps to grow. It is also possible that the reason your Venus flytrap doesn’t snap shut is because it’s dying. Blackening leaves may signal this and are caused by bacteria, which may infect the trap if it hasn’t completely closed when feeding, as when an overly large bug is caught and it can’t shut tightly. A complete seal of the trap is needed to keep the digestive juices in and bacteria out. A dead plant will be brown-black, mushy, and have a rotting odor.
Getting a Venus Flytrap to Close
If you feed your Venus flytrap a dead insect, it will not struggle and signal the cilia to close. You have to manipulate the trap gently to simulate a live insect and allow the trap to snap shut. The trap then secretes digestive juices, dissolving the soft innards of the bug. After five to 12 days, the digestive process is completed, the trap opens and the exoskeleton is blown away or washed out with the rain. Getting your flytrap to close may be a matter of temperature regulation. Venus flytraps are sensitive to the cold which will cause the traps to close very slowly.
Keep in mind that the hairs on the traps or lamina have to be stimulated for the trap to shut. At least one hair must be touched twice or several hairs in rapid succession as when an insect is struggling. The plant can distinguish between a living insect and say, raindrops, and will not close for the latter. Lastly, like most plants, the Venus flytrap lies dormant during the fall through to the following spring. During this time period, the trap is in hibernation and has no need for additional nutrition; hence, the traps do not respond to stimulus. Overall green color in the leaves indicates the plant is simply resting and fasting and not dead.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Venus flytraps are enjoyable and entertaining plants. Their needs and growing conditions are quite different from those of other houseplants. Find out what this unique plant needs to stay strong and healthy, and what to do when Venus flytraps are turning black in this article.
Why to Flytraps Turn Black?
Each trap on a Venus flytrap plant has a limited lifespan. On average, a trap lives about three months. The end may look dramatic, but there is usually nothing wrong with the plant.
When you find that the traps on a Venus flytrap turn black much sooner than they should or when several traps die at once, check your feeding practices and growing conditions. Correcting the problem can save the plant.
Feeding flytraps
Venus flytraps kept indoors depend on their caretakers to provide the insect meals they need to thrive. These plants are so much fun to feed that it’s easy to get carried away. It takes a lot of energy to close a trap and digest the food inside. If you close too many at once, the plant uses all of its reserves and the traps begin to blacken. Wait until the traps are fully open and feed just one or two a week. If you’re feeding the right amount and the Venus flytrap is turning black anyway, perhaps the problem is what you are feeding it. If a bit of the insect, such as a leg or a wing, sticks outside the trap, it won’t be able to make a good seal so that it can digest the food properly. Use insects that are no more than one-third the size of the trap. If the trap catches a bug that is too large on its own just leave it alone. The trap may die, but the plant will survive and grow new traps.
Growing conditions
Venus flytraps are a bit fussy about their soil, water and container. The fertilizers and minerals that are added to commercial potting soils help most plants grow, but they are fatal to Venus flytraps. Use a potting mix labeled specifically for Venus flytraps, or make your own from peat moss and sand or perlite. Clay pots also contain minerals, and they leach out when you water the plant, so use plastic or glazed ceramic pots. Water the plant with filtered water to avoid the introduction of chemicals that may be in your tap water. The plant also needs plenty of sunlight. Strong light coming in from a south-facing window is best. If you don’t have strong natural light available, you will have to use grow lights. Good care and proper conditions are essential to preserve the life and health of the plant.
Why to Flytraps Turn Black?
Each trap on a Venus flytrap plant has a limited lifespan. On average, a trap lives about three months. The end may look dramatic, but there is usually nothing wrong with the plant.
When you find that the traps on a Venus flytrap turn black much sooner than they should or when several traps die at once, check your feeding practices and growing conditions. Correcting the problem can save the plant.
Feeding flytraps
Venus flytraps kept indoors depend on their caretakers to provide the insect meals they need to thrive. These plants are so much fun to feed that it’s easy to get carried away. It takes a lot of energy to close a trap and digest the food inside. If you close too many at once, the plant uses all of its reserves and the traps begin to blacken. Wait until the traps are fully open and feed just one or two a week. If you’re feeding the right amount and the Venus flytrap is turning black anyway, perhaps the problem is what you are feeding it. If a bit of the insect, such as a leg or a wing, sticks outside the trap, it won’t be able to make a good seal so that it can digest the food properly. Use insects that are no more than one-third the size of the trap. If the trap catches a bug that is too large on its own just leave it alone. The trap may die, but the plant will survive and grow new traps.
Growing conditions
Venus flytraps are a bit fussy about their soil, water and container. The fertilizers and minerals that are added to commercial potting soils help most plants grow, but they are fatal to Venus flytraps. Use a potting mix labeled specifically for Venus flytraps, or make your own from peat moss and sand or perlite. Clay pots also contain minerals, and they leach out when you water the plant, so use plastic or glazed ceramic pots. Water the plant with filtered water to avoid the introduction of chemicals that may be in your tap water. The plant also needs plenty of sunlight. Strong light coming in from a south-facing window is best. If you don’t have strong natural light available, you will have to use grow lights. Good care and proper conditions are essential to preserve the life and health of the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Carnivorous plants are fun to grow and fascinating to watch and learn about. The Venus fly trap (Dionaea muscipula) is a moisture loving plant that grows near marshes and bogs. The plants have been overharvested in their native habitat and are becoming rare. Native to only a few areas in North and South Carolina, Venus fly traps grow in nitrogen depleted soils. This is why they trap insects, which provide them with the necessary nitrogen. Venus fly trap care is relatively easy and makes a great family project.
How to Care for a Venus Fly Trap
The Venus fly trap needs slightly acidic moist soils. Grow a Venus fly trap in a peat moss and sand mixture, which will provide mild acidity and help hold water without keeping soils too soggy. The plant needs at least 60 percent humidity and day time temperatures of 70 to 75 F. (22-24 C.). Nighttime temperatures should not go below 55 F. (13 C.). The Venus fly trap is sensitive to chemicals and heavy mineral contents, so a distilled or bottled water is best. Keep water off the foliage by soaking the plant for an hour in a dish of water to moisten the soil. In order to make Venus fly trap care easier, make it a terrarium. An old aquarium makes a good housing for the plant if you cover it. This encourages humidity and moisture retention and you can allow insects to fly around inside for the plant to catch. Line the inside with TWO parts sphagnum moss and one part sand. The Venus fly trap can then be placed in an east- or west-facing window with high indirect lighting.
Venus fly trap is a rosette form with four to six leaves that are hinged and able to close. They are tinged a rosy pink on the edges and secrete an attractive nectar. The edges of the leaves have numerous fine sensitive cilia. When an insect touches the cilia the leaf closes and traps the insect. Special digestive juices disintegrate the insect and the plant feeds on the insects bodily fluid. Caring for a venus fly trap must ensure that it is exposed to areas where it can capture insects. Learn how to care for a Venus fly trap to help this disappearing species continue.
What to Feed a Venus Fly Trap Plant
The fly trap lives up to its name by using its clasping leaves to trap insects. Its diet is not only confined to flies and it will eat creeping insects such as ants, too. When you are caring for a Venus fly trap indoors, you need to assist them by capturing insects. Use tweezers and place the insect on an open leaf pad and tickle the little hairs on the edge until it closes. Some people try to water with beef bouillon or another protein but this can cause mold to form and is not recommended.
How to Care for a Venus Fly Trap
The Venus fly trap needs slightly acidic moist soils. Grow a Venus fly trap in a peat moss and sand mixture, which will provide mild acidity and help hold water without keeping soils too soggy. The plant needs at least 60 percent humidity and day time temperatures of 70 to 75 F. (22-24 C.). Nighttime temperatures should not go below 55 F. (13 C.). The Venus fly trap is sensitive to chemicals and heavy mineral contents, so a distilled or bottled water is best. Keep water off the foliage by soaking the plant for an hour in a dish of water to moisten the soil. In order to make Venus fly trap care easier, make it a terrarium. An old aquarium makes a good housing for the plant if you cover it. This encourages humidity and moisture retention and you can allow insects to fly around inside for the plant to catch. Line the inside with TWO parts sphagnum moss and one part sand. The Venus fly trap can then be placed in an east- or west-facing window with high indirect lighting.
Venus fly trap is a rosette form with four to six leaves that are hinged and able to close. They are tinged a rosy pink on the edges and secrete an attractive nectar. The edges of the leaves have numerous fine sensitive cilia. When an insect touches the cilia the leaf closes and traps the insect. Special digestive juices disintegrate the insect and the plant feeds on the insects bodily fluid. Caring for a venus fly trap must ensure that it is exposed to areas where it can capture insects. Learn how to care for a Venus fly trap to help this disappearing species continue.
What to Feed a Venus Fly Trap Plant
The fly trap lives up to its name by using its clasping leaves to trap insects. Its diet is not only confined to flies and it will eat creeping insects such as ants, too. When you are caring for a Venus fly trap indoors, you need to assist them by capturing insects. Use tweezers and place the insect on an open leaf pad and tickle the little hairs on the edge until it closes. Some people try to water with beef bouillon or another protein but this can cause mold to form and is not recommended.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Sundews (Drosera spp.) are carnivorous plants with an ingenious way to catch their prey. Carnivorous sundew plants have sticky pads that trap insects. The plants are also attractive, often brightly colored rosettes. Growing sundews is common in terrariums or other warm, moist areas that mimic their natural bog habitat. A few tips on how to care for a sundew will have you on your way to enjoying this fascinating plant.
Sundew Plant Information
There are over 90 species of sundew. The majority are found in Australia and South Africa, but they also grow in hot, humid areas of Georgia, Florida and other similar climates. The plants prefer acidic soils and are usually where there is a bog or marsh and often grow on top of sphagnum moss. Sundews are in the genera Drosera and common varieties are often seen in houseplant stores. Sundew plant information wouldn’t be complete without explaining the trap mechanism. The plant has tiny arms or stems covered at the tips with sticky filaments. These filaments secrete a substance that will not only catch small prey but will also digest them. The arms fold in to hold the insect for four to six days until it is completely digested.
Growing Sundews
Whether you grow them indoors or out, carnivorous sundew plants are excellent for controlling gnats and other tiny insects. Sundew plants thrive as potted plants in a mixture of sphagnum moss and vermiculite or perlite. The pot must be kept constantly moist and an atmosphere of humidity is best for maximum growth. Carnivorous sundew plants need warm temperatures and moist conditions. Outdoor plants do well when planted near a water feature or even in soggy soil. When growing sundews outdoors, till soil completely and mix in sphagnum moss to increase the acidity. Full sun situations suit the plant best, but you can also grow them in dappled light.
How to Care for a Sundew
Potted plants do not need fertilizer but do require either distilled or rainwater, as they are not tolerant of high levels of minerals. Provide a humidity level of 40 to 60 percent. This is easy to do by setting a saucer filled with small pebbles under the plant and filling it with water. The evaporation will help moisten the ambient air. Cut off spent stems and leaves as they occur. Transplant them when they outgrow their pots. There are some varieties of Drosera that are more hardy than others. Check with your extension office for plant recommendations for your area. Follow the instructions on how to care for a sundew and grow a fascinating and useful plant in the garden.
Sundew Plant Information
There are over 90 species of sundew. The majority are found in Australia and South Africa, but they also grow in hot, humid areas of Georgia, Florida and other similar climates. The plants prefer acidic soils and are usually where there is a bog or marsh and often grow on top of sphagnum moss. Sundews are in the genera Drosera and common varieties are often seen in houseplant stores. Sundew plant information wouldn’t be complete without explaining the trap mechanism. The plant has tiny arms or stems covered at the tips with sticky filaments. These filaments secrete a substance that will not only catch small prey but will also digest them. The arms fold in to hold the insect for four to six days until it is completely digested.
Growing Sundews
Whether you grow them indoors or out, carnivorous sundew plants are excellent for controlling gnats and other tiny insects. Sundew plants thrive as potted plants in a mixture of sphagnum moss and vermiculite or perlite. The pot must be kept constantly moist and an atmosphere of humidity is best for maximum growth. Carnivorous sundew plants need warm temperatures and moist conditions. Outdoor plants do well when planted near a water feature or even in soggy soil. When growing sundews outdoors, till soil completely and mix in sphagnum moss to increase the acidity. Full sun situations suit the plant best, but you can also grow them in dappled light.
How to Care for a Sundew
Potted plants do not need fertilizer but do require either distilled or rainwater, as they are not tolerant of high levels of minerals. Provide a humidity level of 40 to 60 percent. This is easy to do by setting a saucer filled with small pebbles under the plant and filling it with water. The evaporation will help moisten the ambient air. Cut off spent stems and leaves as they occur. Transplant them when they outgrow their pots. There are some varieties of Drosera that are more hardy than others. Check with your extension office for plant recommendations for your area. Follow the instructions on how to care for a sundew and grow a fascinating and useful plant in the garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
If you love the look of African violets but find them a bit too difficult to grow, try a pot or two of their hardier cousins, the Streptocarpus or cape primrose. It’s said that growing Streptocarpus plants is good training for African violets because their requirements are similar, but cape primrose isn’t as delicate. Their blooms look very similar to African violets with their purple, pink and white hues, but they also possess red varieties in brilliant colors. The leaves are wrinkled and thick with a fuzzy texture and make an attractive houseplant all by themselves. Streptocarpus information is readily available, making these plants a good choice for novice growers.
Streptocarpus Care Indoors
Learning how to care for Streptocarpus is a matter of matching the plant to the environment. The cape primrose is very similar to humans when it comes to finding a comfortable home. They like the air around them to be relatively cool, around 70 F. (21 C.) during the day and about 10 degrees cooler at night. This plant loves light, but direct sunlight can burn the foliage. A home in an east- or west-facing window is perfect, but if a southern view is all you have, you can slip a sheer curtain between the plant and the windowpane to diffuse the worst of the glare.
Tips for Growing Streptocarpus Plants
The easiest way to kill off your Streptocarpus plant is by over-watering it. Give your Streptocarpus care and attention, but offer it a little bit of neglect when it comes to moisture. Make sure the planting medium has very good drainage, and allow it to dry out between watering. Propagating Streptocarpus can be a simple and enjoyable hobby. It’s very easy to create dozens of baby plants, increasing your collection and creating new plants for gifts. Cut off a large, healthy leaf with a clean razor blade and slice out the central vein, leaving two leaf halves. Plant the halves in rich potting soil by standing them up with the cut side down.
Keep the leaf halves moist until they start to sprout. After a few weeks, you will see baby plants forming along the cut edges of the leaves, sometimes as many as a couple of dozen from each leaf. Separate the plantlets once they are growing and healthy and plant each one in an individual pot.
Streptocarpus Care Indoors
Learning how to care for Streptocarpus is a matter of matching the plant to the environment. The cape primrose is very similar to humans when it comes to finding a comfortable home. They like the air around them to be relatively cool, around 70 F. (21 C.) during the day and about 10 degrees cooler at night. This plant loves light, but direct sunlight can burn the foliage. A home in an east- or west-facing window is perfect, but if a southern view is all you have, you can slip a sheer curtain between the plant and the windowpane to diffuse the worst of the glare.
Tips for Growing Streptocarpus Plants
The easiest way to kill off your Streptocarpus plant is by over-watering it. Give your Streptocarpus care and attention, but offer it a little bit of neglect when it comes to moisture. Make sure the planting medium has very good drainage, and allow it to dry out between watering. Propagating Streptocarpus can be a simple and enjoyable hobby. It’s very easy to create dozens of baby plants, increasing your collection and creating new plants for gifts. Cut off a large, healthy leaf with a clean razor blade and slice out the central vein, leaving two leaf halves. Plant the halves in rich potting soil by standing them up with the cut side down.
Keep the leaf halves moist until they start to sprout. After a few weeks, you will see baby plants forming along the cut edges of the leaves, sometimes as many as a couple of dozen from each leaf. Separate the plantlets once they are growing and healthy and plant each one in an individual pot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) are another commonly grown houseplant. They make excellent additions to hanging baskets with their long, ribbon-like foliage and arching stems of spiderettes spilling over the edges. To keep these plants looking their best, it is occasionally necessary to trim spider plant leaves and spiderettes.
Trimming Spider Plant Leaves
When given the proper growing conditions, spider plants can reach 2 ½ to 3 feet in both diameter and length. As a result, spider plants benefit from an occasional pruning. This is normally done during spring, or in most cases, summer. Pruning spider plants keeps them at a more desirable and manageable size and rejuvenates their overall health and vigor. In addition, the more babies it produces, the more the plant needs fertilizer and water as this uses up much of its energy. Therefore, the spiderettes should be removed as well. These can then be placed in moist soil or water to make additional plants, which root within a few weeks.
How to Prune Spider Plant
Any foliage being pruned should be cut at the base of the plant. Always use sharp pruners or scissors when pruning spider plants. Remove all discolored, diseased, or dead foliage as needed. To remove the spiderettes, cut the long stems back to the base from both the mother plant and the baby. For overgrown or pot bound plants, repotting in addition to pruning may be necessary. After pruning, repot the spider plant, giving it a good root pruning as well prior to returning it to the pot of fresh soil. Generally, it’s a good idea to include root pruning at least once every year or two.
Spider Plants Brown Tips
Occasionally, you may notice brown tips on your spider plants. Oftentimes this is due to the type of water being used during irrigation. For example, city water often contains chemicals such as chlorine or fluoride that can be hard on plants. Over time these chemicals will build up in the foliage, eventually burning the tips and subsequently turning them brown. For this reason, it’s better to use distilled water (or rainwater) whenever possible. You could also choose to leave some water sitting out overnight to lessen the chemical effects. Brown tips can also occur from too much sunlight and low humidity. Keep spider plants out of direct light and mist the plants when the humidity is low. Remove any leaves that have brown tips as well as any that may be yellowing.
Trimming Spider Plant Leaves
When given the proper growing conditions, spider plants can reach 2 ½ to 3 feet in both diameter and length. As a result, spider plants benefit from an occasional pruning. This is normally done during spring, or in most cases, summer. Pruning spider plants keeps them at a more desirable and manageable size and rejuvenates their overall health and vigor. In addition, the more babies it produces, the more the plant needs fertilizer and water as this uses up much of its energy. Therefore, the spiderettes should be removed as well. These can then be placed in moist soil or water to make additional plants, which root within a few weeks.
How to Prune Spider Plant
Any foliage being pruned should be cut at the base of the plant. Always use sharp pruners or scissors when pruning spider plants. Remove all discolored, diseased, or dead foliage as needed. To remove the spiderettes, cut the long stems back to the base from both the mother plant and the baby. For overgrown or pot bound plants, repotting in addition to pruning may be necessary. After pruning, repot the spider plant, giving it a good root pruning as well prior to returning it to the pot of fresh soil. Generally, it’s a good idea to include root pruning at least once every year or two.
Spider Plants Brown Tips
Occasionally, you may notice brown tips on your spider plants. Oftentimes this is due to the type of water being used during irrigation. For example, city water often contains chemicals such as chlorine or fluoride that can be hard on plants. Over time these chemicals will build up in the foliage, eventually burning the tips and subsequently turning them brown. For this reason, it’s better to use distilled water (or rainwater) whenever possible. You could also choose to leave some water sitting out overnight to lessen the chemical effects. Brown tips can also occur from too much sunlight and low humidity. Keep spider plants out of direct light and mist the plants when the humidity is low. Remove any leaves that have brown tips as well as any that may be yellowing.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Most people are familiar with spider plants as houseplants because they are so tolerant and easy to grow. They tolerate low light, infrequent watering and help clean indoor air, making them very popular. They also propagate easily from the little plantlets (spiders) that grow from their flower stalks. One small spider plant can very quickly lead to many more. You may have wondered at one time or another, “can spider plants be outdoors?” Well, in the right conditions, growing spider plants outdoors is possible. Read more to learn how to grow a spider plant outside.
How to Grow a Spider Plant Outside
The easiest way to grow spider plants outside is just to move your potted spider plant outdoors when weather permits and indoors when it is too cold. Spider plants make excellent plants for hanging baskets, with small white, star-shaped flowers arching down on long flower stalks. After flowering, grass-like new little plantlets form on these flower stalks.
These little spider-like hanging plantlets are why Chlorophytum comosun is commonly called spider plant. The plantlets are like the runners on strawberry plants and will root wherever they touch soil, creating new spider plants. To propagate, simply snip the “spiders” off and stick them in soil. Native to South Africa, spider plants need a warm, tropical climate to survive outside. They can be grown like a perennial in zones 9-11 and as an annual in cooler climates. Spider plants outside cannot tolerate any frost. If planting them as annuals in cooler climates, be sure to wait until there’s no danger of frost. Spider plants prefer filtered sunlight, but can grow in part-shade to shade. They tend to get sunburnt in full sun or afternoon sun. Spider plants outside make excellent spreading groundcovers and border plants around trees. In zones 10-11, it can grow and spread aggressively. Spider plants have thick rhizomes that store water, making them tolerate some drought. Spider plants can also make excellent trailing plants for large container arrangements.
Care of Spider Plants Outdoors
Growing spider plants outdoors can be as easy as growing them inside. Start them early indoors, giving the roots time to develop. Spider plants need well-draining, slightly acidic soil. They prefer dappled shade and cannot handle direct afternoon sun. When young, they need moist soil. Spider plants are sensitive to the fluoride and chlorine in city water, so they perform best with rain water or distilled water. They also don’t like too much fertilizer, use a basic 10-10-10 fertilizer only once a month or bi-monthly.
Spider plants outside are especially susceptible to aphids, scale, whiteflies and spider mites. Use an insecticidal soap, especially if they are being brought inside for the winter. I use a homemade dish soap dip, made from ¼ cup Dawn dish soap, ½ cup mouth wash and a gallon of water. If growing spider plants outdoors as an annual, you can dig them up and over winter them in pots inside. If you have too many, give them away to friends. I have planted them in Halloween cups and handed them out at Halloween parties, telling kids they can grow their own creepy spider plants.
How to Grow a Spider Plant Outside
The easiest way to grow spider plants outside is just to move your potted spider plant outdoors when weather permits and indoors when it is too cold. Spider plants make excellent plants for hanging baskets, with small white, star-shaped flowers arching down on long flower stalks. After flowering, grass-like new little plantlets form on these flower stalks.
These little spider-like hanging plantlets are why Chlorophytum comosun is commonly called spider plant. The plantlets are like the runners on strawberry plants and will root wherever they touch soil, creating new spider plants. To propagate, simply snip the “spiders” off and stick them in soil. Native to South Africa, spider plants need a warm, tropical climate to survive outside. They can be grown like a perennial in zones 9-11 and as an annual in cooler climates. Spider plants outside cannot tolerate any frost. If planting them as annuals in cooler climates, be sure to wait until there’s no danger of frost. Spider plants prefer filtered sunlight, but can grow in part-shade to shade. They tend to get sunburnt in full sun or afternoon sun. Spider plants outside make excellent spreading groundcovers and border plants around trees. In zones 10-11, it can grow and spread aggressively. Spider plants have thick rhizomes that store water, making them tolerate some drought. Spider plants can also make excellent trailing plants for large container arrangements.
Care of Spider Plants Outdoors
Growing spider plants outdoors can be as easy as growing them inside. Start them early indoors, giving the roots time to develop. Spider plants need well-draining, slightly acidic soil. They prefer dappled shade and cannot handle direct afternoon sun. When young, they need moist soil. Spider plants are sensitive to the fluoride and chlorine in city water, so they perform best with rain water or distilled water. They also don’t like too much fertilizer, use a basic 10-10-10 fertilizer only once a month or bi-monthly.
Spider plants outside are especially susceptible to aphids, scale, whiteflies and spider mites. Use an insecticidal soap, especially if they are being brought inside for the winter. I use a homemade dish soap dip, made from ¼ cup Dawn dish soap, ½ cup mouth wash and a gallon of water. If growing spider plants outdoors as an annual, you can dig them up and over winter them in pots inside. If you have too many, give them away to friends. I have planted them in Halloween cups and handed them out at Halloween parties, telling kids they can grow their own creepy spider plants.
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