文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The rubber tree is a large houseplant and most people find it is easy to grow and care for indoors. However, some people ask about growing outdoor rubber tree plants. In fact, in some areas, this plant is used as a screen or patio plant. So, can you grow rubber plant outside? Read more to learn about taking care of a rubber plant outside in your area.
Can You Grow Rubber Plants Outside?
Gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can grow the plant outdoors, according to most rubber plant information. Outdoor rubber tree plants (Ficus elastica) may grow in Zone 9 if winter protection is offered. In this area, outdoor rubber tree plants should be planted on the north or east side of a building for protection from the wind. When the plant is young, prune it to a single trunk, as these plants tend to split when caught in the wind.
Rubber plant information also says to plant the tree in a shady area, although some plants accept light, dappled shade. Thick, glabrous leaves burn easily when exposed to sunlight. Those living in tropical zones outside of the United States can grow outdoor rubber tree plants easily, as this is their native environment. In the wild, outdoor rubber tree plants can reach 40 to 100 feet in height. When using this plant as an outdoor ornamental, pruning limbs and the top of the plant make it sturdier and more compact.
Rubber Plant Information for Northern Areas
If you live in a more northern area and want to grow outdoor rubber tree plants, plant them in a container. Taking care of a rubber plant growing in a container can include locating them outdoors during seasons of warm temperatures. Optimum temperatures for taking care of a rubber plant outdoors are 65 to 80 F. (18-27 C.) Outdoors, plants acclimated to cooler temperatures should be brought indoors before temperatures reach 30 F. (-1 C.).
Taking Care of a Rubber Plant Outdoors
Rubber plant information suggests plants require deep watering and then allow the soil to dry out almost completely. Some sources say containerized plants should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Still other sources say the drying of the soil causes leaves to drop. Keep an eye on your rubber tree growing outdoors and use good judgment on watering, depending on its location.
Can You Grow Rubber Plants Outside?
Gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can grow the plant outdoors, according to most rubber plant information. Outdoor rubber tree plants (Ficus elastica) may grow in Zone 9 if winter protection is offered. In this area, outdoor rubber tree plants should be planted on the north or east side of a building for protection from the wind. When the plant is young, prune it to a single trunk, as these plants tend to split when caught in the wind.
Rubber plant information also says to plant the tree in a shady area, although some plants accept light, dappled shade. Thick, glabrous leaves burn easily when exposed to sunlight. Those living in tropical zones outside of the United States can grow outdoor rubber tree plants easily, as this is their native environment. In the wild, outdoor rubber tree plants can reach 40 to 100 feet in height. When using this plant as an outdoor ornamental, pruning limbs and the top of the plant make it sturdier and more compact.
Rubber Plant Information for Northern Areas
If you live in a more northern area and want to grow outdoor rubber tree plants, plant them in a container. Taking care of a rubber plant growing in a container can include locating them outdoors during seasons of warm temperatures. Optimum temperatures for taking care of a rubber plant outdoors are 65 to 80 F. (18-27 C.) Outdoors, plants acclimated to cooler temperatures should be brought indoors before temperatures reach 30 F. (-1 C.).
Taking Care of a Rubber Plant Outdoors
Rubber plant information suggests plants require deep watering and then allow the soil to dry out almost completely. Some sources say containerized plants should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Still other sources say the drying of the soil causes leaves to drop. Keep an eye on your rubber tree growing outdoors and use good judgment on watering, depending on its location.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Ficus plants are commonly sold as houseplants. One of the more striking due to its glossy leaves, is the rubber tree plant. These are fairly easy to care for but dislike being moved and are fussy about water. Rubber plant watering must provide matching moisture to what the plants would find in their native Southeast Asian habitat. However, in the home interior this may be difficult to achieve unless you are vigilant or use a plant moisture meter. Learn to know signs for when to water a rubber tree plant, so your Ficus is happy and healthy.
How Much Water Do Rubber Tree Plants Need?
Ficus are a large genus of tropical to semi-tropical plants, many of which are perfect for the home interior. The rubber plant produces a perfect home sized tree and is adaptable to indoor growing.
Water requirements for rubber plants are consistently moist but never soggy. Soggy plants can get root rot, soil gnats and other problems. Dry soil causes leaves to drop and reduces the overall health and growth of the plant. Getting rubber plant watering right will ensure beautiful leaves and maximum growth. Rubber plants are rainforest specimens. As such, they are adapted to plentiful water. But as with most plants, excess or standing water can be detrimental to their health. So how much water do rubber tree plants need?
The first step is to ensure the container the plant is in has adequate drainage holes. Also, make sure the potting medium has some peat, vermiculite or perlite in it. Peat holds water and air, increasing porosity. Vermiculite has the same purpose while a calcined clay perlite improves moisture and nutrient holding abilities of the soil medium. Use a dish under the plant that is lined with pebbles to catch excess moisture but keep the roots from sitting in water. This will evaporate gradually increasing humidity around the rubber tree. Never allow a container to sit in a saucer or dish without rocks. Roots sitting in soil will deteriorate and the plant will suffer.
When to Water a Rubber Tree Plant
The obvious answer is when the plant is dry but there is more to it than that. Even indoor plants respond to light and temperature changes. In winter, plants get less daylight and feel cold. They go into a sort of hibernation until more sunlight is available. Therefore, during winter you can cut watering in half. However, plants that are positioned near a fireplace or furnace will have their potting soil dry out much more quickly. In any case, if the top few inches of soil are dry, it is time to water. You may opt for a water meter or simply insert your finger into soil. Most water meters should read a 4 at optimum moisture levels. Rubber plants need to be checked weekly during the growing season. A good sign that you are overwatering is yellow leaves. At the first sign of yellowing, decrease watering slightly and healthy green, glossy leaves appear. Prior to watering, allow tap water to sit for a few hours to allow chlorine to evaporate and the water to come to room temperature. This causes less shock to the plant than icy water. When watering a rubber plant, drench the soil completely until excess moisture runs out the drainage holes. This will not only water the roots but leach out any built-up salts from fertilizing. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between each watering.
How Much Water Do Rubber Tree Plants Need?
Ficus are a large genus of tropical to semi-tropical plants, many of which are perfect for the home interior. The rubber plant produces a perfect home sized tree and is adaptable to indoor growing.
Water requirements for rubber plants are consistently moist but never soggy. Soggy plants can get root rot, soil gnats and other problems. Dry soil causes leaves to drop and reduces the overall health and growth of the plant. Getting rubber plant watering right will ensure beautiful leaves and maximum growth. Rubber plants are rainforest specimens. As such, they are adapted to plentiful water. But as with most plants, excess or standing water can be detrimental to their health. So how much water do rubber tree plants need?
The first step is to ensure the container the plant is in has adequate drainage holes. Also, make sure the potting medium has some peat, vermiculite or perlite in it. Peat holds water and air, increasing porosity. Vermiculite has the same purpose while a calcined clay perlite improves moisture and nutrient holding abilities of the soil medium. Use a dish under the plant that is lined with pebbles to catch excess moisture but keep the roots from sitting in water. This will evaporate gradually increasing humidity around the rubber tree. Never allow a container to sit in a saucer or dish without rocks. Roots sitting in soil will deteriorate and the plant will suffer.
When to Water a Rubber Tree Plant
The obvious answer is when the plant is dry but there is more to it than that. Even indoor plants respond to light and temperature changes. In winter, plants get less daylight and feel cold. They go into a sort of hibernation until more sunlight is available. Therefore, during winter you can cut watering in half. However, plants that are positioned near a fireplace or furnace will have their potting soil dry out much more quickly. In any case, if the top few inches of soil are dry, it is time to water. You may opt for a water meter or simply insert your finger into soil. Most water meters should read a 4 at optimum moisture levels. Rubber plants need to be checked weekly during the growing season. A good sign that you are overwatering is yellow leaves. At the first sign of yellowing, decrease watering slightly and healthy green, glossy leaves appear. Prior to watering, allow tap water to sit for a few hours to allow chlorine to evaporate and the water to come to room temperature. This causes less shock to the plant than icy water. When watering a rubber plant, drench the soil completely until excess moisture runs out the drainage holes. This will not only water the roots but leach out any built-up salts from fertilizing. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between each watering.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
If you’re looking up how to repot rubber tree plants, you probably already have one. Whether you have the variety ‘Rubra,’ with dark green leaves and light-colored mid-veins, or ‘Tricolor,’ with variegated leaves, their needs are essentially the same. Rubber plants don’t mind being grown in pots because they originate in Southeast Asian rainforests where, like most rainforests, the soil layer is very thin and plants typically don’t root as deeply as those in temperate forests. Keep reading to learn more about rubber tree plant potting.
When Does Rubber Plant Need a New Pot?
If your rubber plant is still small and/or you don’t want it to grow much or to grow slowly, your plant may only need a little top dressing. If this is the case, simply scrape off the top half inch to inch (1.2 to 2.5 cm.) of soil and replace it with an equal layer of potting soil, compost, or another medium that contains slow-releasing nutrients. However, there will come a time when it is necessary to provide new space as well as nutrients to maintain the health and growth of your rubber tree plant. Potting it up is especially necessary if the rootball appears to be girdled, or growing around the sides of the pot. This tells you that you’re a bit past due for upgrading your plant to a bigger pot.
Repotting a Rubber Plant
Pick a pot that is somewhat larger than your current one without being excessively bigger. Usually increasing the pot size by 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) in diameter is sufficient for a large potted plant. If you use a pot that is too much larger than the current rootball, the soil may stay wet for too long after watering because there are no roots in the added soil to draw out the water, which can lead to root rot. This is also a good time to consider the plant’s growth since the last time it was put in a pot. When repotting a rubber plant that has gained a lot of top growth, you may need to choose a heavier pot or weigh down the pot by adding some sand to the growing medium to prevent tipping over, especially if you have children or animals that may occasionally pull on the plant. If you do use sand, be sure to use a coarse builder’s sand and not a fine child’s play sand. You’ll need the mix to contain a good amount of fertility in order to support the growth of the rubber plant for the next few months. Compost and potting soil both contain a good mix of slow-releasing nutrients that will help your rubber plant to thrive.
How to Repot Rubber Tree Plants
Once you have everything you need for repotting your rubber plant, it’s time to change pots. Remove the plant from its current pot and tease the roots some. This is also a good time to inspect the roots and perform any necessary root pruning. Add a fair amount of your soil medium to the base of the new pot. Situate the rubber plant on top of this, adjusting as needed. You want the surface of the root ball just below the rim, and simply fill in around and over the root ball with soil. Be sure to leave about an inch (2.5 cm.) or so of space from the rim of the pot for watering.
When Does Rubber Plant Need a New Pot?
If your rubber plant is still small and/or you don’t want it to grow much or to grow slowly, your plant may only need a little top dressing. If this is the case, simply scrape off the top half inch to inch (1.2 to 2.5 cm.) of soil and replace it with an equal layer of potting soil, compost, or another medium that contains slow-releasing nutrients. However, there will come a time when it is necessary to provide new space as well as nutrients to maintain the health and growth of your rubber tree plant. Potting it up is especially necessary if the rootball appears to be girdled, or growing around the sides of the pot. This tells you that you’re a bit past due for upgrading your plant to a bigger pot.
Repotting a Rubber Plant
Pick a pot that is somewhat larger than your current one without being excessively bigger. Usually increasing the pot size by 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) in diameter is sufficient for a large potted plant. If you use a pot that is too much larger than the current rootball, the soil may stay wet for too long after watering because there are no roots in the added soil to draw out the water, which can lead to root rot. This is also a good time to consider the plant’s growth since the last time it was put in a pot. When repotting a rubber plant that has gained a lot of top growth, you may need to choose a heavier pot or weigh down the pot by adding some sand to the growing medium to prevent tipping over, especially if you have children or animals that may occasionally pull on the plant. If you do use sand, be sure to use a coarse builder’s sand and not a fine child’s play sand. You’ll need the mix to contain a good amount of fertility in order to support the growth of the rubber plant for the next few months. Compost and potting soil both contain a good mix of slow-releasing nutrients that will help your rubber plant to thrive.
How to Repot Rubber Tree Plants
Once you have everything you need for repotting your rubber plant, it’s time to change pots. Remove the plant from its current pot and tease the roots some. This is also a good time to inspect the roots and perform any necessary root pruning. Add a fair amount of your soil medium to the base of the new pot. Situate the rubber plant on top of this, adjusting as needed. You want the surface of the root ball just below the rim, and simply fill in around and over the root ball with soil. Be sure to leave about an inch (2.5 cm.) or so of space from the rim of the pot for watering.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
There are many “footed” ferns which produce fuzzy rhizomes that grow outside the pot. These are generally grown as indoor plants. Rabbit’s foot fern doesn’t mind being pot bound but you should give it fresh soil every couple years. Repotting can be a challenge with all the little feet hanging around the original pot so read here for a step-by-step tutorial on how to repot a rabbit’s foot fern. Davallia fejeensis is the botanical name of the rabbit’s foot fern (Humata tyermanii or white paw fern, is a similar plant). These charming plants produce soft silvery growth off the base of the plant that stream down the outside of the pot. The growths are actually above ground rhizomes and can be used to start entirely new ferns. In mature plants, these rhizomes will literally coat the outside of a container and cascade down over a hanging pot. Don’t worry if you break one off during rabbit’s foot fern repotting, as you can simply root it for another of these wonderful plants.
When to Repot Rabbit’s Foot Ferns
Timing is everything, and this is the case when to repot rabbit’s foot ferns. As with most plants, the best time to disturb it in any way is when the plant is dormant. This goes for repotting, trimming or training. It is a little harder to tell when indoor plants are dormant but, basically, it is when no new growth is being produced. Usually, this is in winter when it is cooler and light levels are lower. However, this is a very forgiving plant and repotting a rabbit’s foot fern at any time of the year is fine as long as it is not exposed to any extreme stresses such as temperature fluctuations.
How to Repot a Rabbit’s Foot Fern
Choose a lightweight pot if you are creating a hanging planter. The size of the pot should be just slightly larger than the base of the plant. These ferns enjoy being crowded. Removing the fern from the existing pot is the trick. If it is a cheap nursery pot, you can cut the plant out to liberate it. Otherwise, use a hori hori or slender planting tool to gently pry around the inside of the pot and loosen the soil. The bottom of the pot may also have roots growing outside. Loosen these and, if necessary, cut off those that have wound around the drainage holes. Don’t worry, there are plenty of roots still to sustain the plant and it won’t damage the fern. Use a potting mix with little to no soil such as 2 parts peat, 1 part soil and 1 part sand or perlite. You may decide to divide the fern if it has gotten too large. Cut it into up to 4 sections with a sharp, clean knife. Plant in the new soil with the rhizomes balanced around the edge of the pot. Water well.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Repotting of Rhizomes
Root any of the fuzzy little rhizomes that may have broken off during repotting. Use a flat tray or small pots filled with perlite that is just slightly moistened. Bury the rhizome completely in this medium and cover the container with plastic wrap to create greenhouse conditions. Place the container in a warm location and keep evenly moist. Remove the plastic wrap once per day to give the plant air and prevent mildew. Within a few weeks, the rhizome will produce little green leaves which signal the complete removal of the plastic. Do no fertilize for a month after repotting a rabbit’s foot fern.
When to Repot Rabbit’s Foot Ferns
Timing is everything, and this is the case when to repot rabbit’s foot ferns. As with most plants, the best time to disturb it in any way is when the plant is dormant. This goes for repotting, trimming or training. It is a little harder to tell when indoor plants are dormant but, basically, it is when no new growth is being produced. Usually, this is in winter when it is cooler and light levels are lower. However, this is a very forgiving plant and repotting a rabbit’s foot fern at any time of the year is fine as long as it is not exposed to any extreme stresses such as temperature fluctuations.
How to Repot a Rabbit’s Foot Fern
Choose a lightweight pot if you are creating a hanging planter. The size of the pot should be just slightly larger than the base of the plant. These ferns enjoy being crowded. Removing the fern from the existing pot is the trick. If it is a cheap nursery pot, you can cut the plant out to liberate it. Otherwise, use a hori hori or slender planting tool to gently pry around the inside of the pot and loosen the soil. The bottom of the pot may also have roots growing outside. Loosen these and, if necessary, cut off those that have wound around the drainage holes. Don’t worry, there are plenty of roots still to sustain the plant and it won’t damage the fern. Use a potting mix with little to no soil such as 2 parts peat, 1 part soil and 1 part sand or perlite. You may decide to divide the fern if it has gotten too large. Cut it into up to 4 sections with a sharp, clean knife. Plant in the new soil with the rhizomes balanced around the edge of the pot. Water well.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Repotting of Rhizomes
Root any of the fuzzy little rhizomes that may have broken off during repotting. Use a flat tray or small pots filled with perlite that is just slightly moistened. Bury the rhizome completely in this medium and cover the container with plastic wrap to create greenhouse conditions. Place the container in a warm location and keep evenly moist. Remove the plastic wrap once per day to give the plant air and prevent mildew. Within a few weeks, the rhizome will produce little green leaves which signal the complete removal of the plastic. Do no fertilize for a month after repotting a rabbit’s foot fern.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Most people are familiar with how to grow prayer plants. The prayer plant (Maranta leuconeura) is easy to grow but has specific needs. Keep reading to learn what those needs are.
How to Grow a Prayer Plant
Although prayer plant houseplant is somewhat tolerant of low light conditions, it does best in bright, indirect sunlight. The prayer plant prefers well-drained soil and requires high humidity to thrive. Prayer plant houseplants should be kept moist, but not soggy. Use warm water and feed prayer plant houseplants every two weeks, from spring through fall, with an all-purpose fertilizer. During winter dormancy, the soil should be kept drier. Keep in mind, however, that dry air can also be a problem in winter; therefore, placing the prayer plant among several houseplants can help create more humid conditions, misting daily with warm water. Placing a bowl of water near the plant or setting its container on top of a shallow dish of pebbles and water is also helpful. However, do not allow the prayer plant to sit directly in water. Ideal temperatures for the prayer plant are between 60 and 80 F. (16-27 C.).
Prayer Plant Propagation
Repot in early spring, at which time prayer plant propagation can be accomplished by division. Use ordinary potting soil when repotting the prayer plant. Stem cuttings can also be taken from spring to early summer. Take cuttings just below the nodes closest to the bottom of the stem. Cuttings can be placed in a mixture of moist peat and perlite and covered with plastic to retain moisture levels. You may want to poke a few air holes in the plastic to allow for adequate ventilation as well. Place the cuttings in a sunny location. If a piece of prayer plant has broken off, dip the broken end into rooting hormone and place it in distilled water. Change the water every other day. Wait until the roots are about an inch long before taking it out to place in soil. Keep in mind with prayer plant propagation that there needs to be a least a small portion of stem on the leaves in order for the piece to take root. Alternatively, the piece can be rooted directly in soil, as with cuttings.
Prayer Plant Pest Problems
Since prayer plant houseplants may be prone to pests such as spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, it is a good idea to inspect new plants thoroughly before bringing them indoors. You may also want to occasionally check prayer plant houseplants as an added precaution during watering or feeding intervals for any problems that may arise.
Learning how to grow a prayer plant is easy and its rewards well worth any issues you may come across along the way.
How to Grow a Prayer Plant
Although prayer plant houseplant is somewhat tolerant of low light conditions, it does best in bright, indirect sunlight. The prayer plant prefers well-drained soil and requires high humidity to thrive. Prayer plant houseplants should be kept moist, but not soggy. Use warm water and feed prayer plant houseplants every two weeks, from spring through fall, with an all-purpose fertilizer. During winter dormancy, the soil should be kept drier. Keep in mind, however, that dry air can also be a problem in winter; therefore, placing the prayer plant among several houseplants can help create more humid conditions, misting daily with warm water. Placing a bowl of water near the plant or setting its container on top of a shallow dish of pebbles and water is also helpful. However, do not allow the prayer plant to sit directly in water. Ideal temperatures for the prayer plant are between 60 and 80 F. (16-27 C.).
Prayer Plant Propagation
Repot in early spring, at which time prayer plant propagation can be accomplished by division. Use ordinary potting soil when repotting the prayer plant. Stem cuttings can also be taken from spring to early summer. Take cuttings just below the nodes closest to the bottom of the stem. Cuttings can be placed in a mixture of moist peat and perlite and covered with plastic to retain moisture levels. You may want to poke a few air holes in the plastic to allow for adequate ventilation as well. Place the cuttings in a sunny location. If a piece of prayer plant has broken off, dip the broken end into rooting hormone and place it in distilled water. Change the water every other day. Wait until the roots are about an inch long before taking it out to place in soil. Keep in mind with prayer plant propagation that there needs to be a least a small portion of stem on the leaves in order for the piece to take root. Alternatively, the piece can be rooted directly in soil, as with cuttings.
Prayer Plant Pest Problems
Since prayer plant houseplants may be prone to pests such as spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, it is a good idea to inspect new plants thoroughly before bringing them indoors. You may also want to occasionally check prayer plant houseplants as an added precaution during watering or feeding intervals for any problems that may arise.
Learning how to grow a prayer plant is easy and its rewards well worth any issues you may come across along the way.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The oval-shaped, beautifully patterned foliage of the prayer plant has earned it a favored spot among houseplants. Indoor gardeners love these plants, sometimes too much. When prayer plants turn yellow, it’s often because of environmental problems, but a few diseases and pests could also be responsible. If your prayer plant is turning yellow, read on to find out the possible causes and their treatments.
What Causes Yellow Leaves on Prayer Plants
Environmental Stress
By far the most common Maranta prayer plant problems are caused by incorrect care. Bright lighting or excessive phosphate or fluoride can cause leaf tips and margins to burn, leaving a band of yellow tissue between the healthy and dead tissues. Chlorosis causes yellow prayer plant foliage, especially on younger leaves. Move your plant to a location with indirect light and begin watering with purified water. A dose of liquid iron fertilizer mixed per package directions can help correct chlorosis, provided the pH of your medium is around 6.0. A soil test may be in order, or it could be time to repot.
Fungal Disease
Helminthosporium leaf spot is a fungal disease that causes small, water-soaked spots to appear on prayer plant leaves. These spots soon yellow and spread, eventually becoming tan areas with yellow halos. This fungus takes hold when plants are chronically over-irrigated and leaves frequently are covered in standing water. Correct the irrigation problem to eliminate future risk of disease and water only at the base of the plant in the morning, so that water evaporates from splashed surfaces quickly. An application of neem oil or the fungicide chlorothalonil can kill active disease, but prevention of future outbreaks is vital.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
The cucumber mosaic virus may be responsible for yellowing leaves on Maranta, especially if the yellowing alternates with otherwise healthy green tissue. New leaves may emerge small and distorted, older leaves develop yellow line patterns across their surfaces. Unfortunately, there’s nothing you can do for plant viruses It’s best to destroy your plant to prevent other houseplants from contracting the virus.
What Causes Yellow Leaves on Prayer Plants
Environmental Stress
By far the most common Maranta prayer plant problems are caused by incorrect care. Bright lighting or excessive phosphate or fluoride can cause leaf tips and margins to burn, leaving a band of yellow tissue between the healthy and dead tissues. Chlorosis causes yellow prayer plant foliage, especially on younger leaves. Move your plant to a location with indirect light and begin watering with purified water. A dose of liquid iron fertilizer mixed per package directions can help correct chlorosis, provided the pH of your medium is around 6.0. A soil test may be in order, or it could be time to repot.
Fungal Disease
Helminthosporium leaf spot is a fungal disease that causes small, water-soaked spots to appear on prayer plant leaves. These spots soon yellow and spread, eventually becoming tan areas with yellow halos. This fungus takes hold when plants are chronically over-irrigated and leaves frequently are covered in standing water. Correct the irrigation problem to eliminate future risk of disease and water only at the base of the plant in the morning, so that water evaporates from splashed surfaces quickly. An application of neem oil or the fungicide chlorothalonil can kill active disease, but prevention of future outbreaks is vital.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
The cucumber mosaic virus may be responsible for yellowing leaves on Maranta, especially if the yellowing alternates with otherwise healthy green tissue. New leaves may emerge small and distorted, older leaves develop yellow line patterns across their surfaces. Unfortunately, there’s nothing you can do for plant viruses It’s best to destroy your plant to prevent other houseplants from contracting the virus.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
There are number of reasons the foliage on a houseplant can turn brown. Why do prayer plant leaves turn brown? Prayer plants with brown tips can be caused by low humidity, improper watering, excess fertilizer or even too much sun. Cultural conditions are easy to change and soon your beautiful houseplant will be back to its glossy glory. Take a good look at where your plant is situated and how you care for it, and you can unlock the riddle of why you have brown leaves on prayer plants.
Why Do Prayer Plants Leaves Turn Brown?
Prayer plants are beautiful tropical foliage plants. They naturally live in the understory of Brazilian tropical forests and need moderate light and high humidity. This makes them perfect houseplants for most conditions. However, if you say, “my prayer plant has brown leaves,” you need to ask if you are providing those conditions. Prayer plants with brown leaves may be trying to tell you that the cultural conditions aren’t correct for this glossy leaved plant with a habit of folding its leaves together at night in worshipful prayer.
The foliage of prayer plant is spectacular. The broad oval leaves have glossy green coloring with windowpanes of lighter green to white. The veins are a bold red with red to maroon coloring on the undersides of the leaves. The plants are prized for this dimension of color in the leaves, which means brown leaves on prayer plants mar the perfection of the foliage.
Ideal conditions for prayer plants are indirect light, medium to high humidity, moderately moist soil and well-draining containers and medium. If you notice edges turning brown on prayer plants, any one of these conditions may need to be addressed. The plant needs light but can burn in a southern window. Heated homes tend to be dry so a humidifier or misting can help add extra moisture to the air. Good potting soil and a moisture meter can keep the soil wet enough without getting soggy.
Additional Reasons for Brown Leaves on Prayer Plants
So you have all the correct conditions for your plant, yet you still see the edges turning brown on prayer plants. Why? It may be the type of water you use or fertilizer salt build-up.
Use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate the container. Excess minerals and common tap water additives may be stressing the plant out.
Feed your houseplant spring through fall with a diluted soluble plant food every two weeks. However, improper dilution or frequent feeding will lead to a build-up of the salts found in fertilizer. This can be flushed from the soil or, in extreme cases, repot the plant with a high quality houseplant soil.
If you have considered and corrected all these possible causes, and you still say, “My prayer plant has brown leaves,” you may need to look through a magnifying glass to identify the culprits. Several sucking or chewing insects may have hitchhiked into your home and are damaging the tissue of the leaves, which will die and brown.
Look carefully for these invaders and use a horticultural soap to control them. You can also put the plant in the shower and hose off most of the pests. Just remember to let the plant drain completely and adjust your watering schedule to reflect that excess water.
Why Do Prayer Plants Leaves Turn Brown?
Prayer plants are beautiful tropical foliage plants. They naturally live in the understory of Brazilian tropical forests and need moderate light and high humidity. This makes them perfect houseplants for most conditions. However, if you say, “my prayer plant has brown leaves,” you need to ask if you are providing those conditions. Prayer plants with brown leaves may be trying to tell you that the cultural conditions aren’t correct for this glossy leaved plant with a habit of folding its leaves together at night in worshipful prayer.
The foliage of prayer plant is spectacular. The broad oval leaves have glossy green coloring with windowpanes of lighter green to white. The veins are a bold red with red to maroon coloring on the undersides of the leaves. The plants are prized for this dimension of color in the leaves, which means brown leaves on prayer plants mar the perfection of the foliage.
Ideal conditions for prayer plants are indirect light, medium to high humidity, moderately moist soil and well-draining containers and medium. If you notice edges turning brown on prayer plants, any one of these conditions may need to be addressed. The plant needs light but can burn in a southern window. Heated homes tend to be dry so a humidifier or misting can help add extra moisture to the air. Good potting soil and a moisture meter can keep the soil wet enough without getting soggy.
Additional Reasons for Brown Leaves on Prayer Plants
So you have all the correct conditions for your plant, yet you still see the edges turning brown on prayer plants. Why? It may be the type of water you use or fertilizer salt build-up.
Use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate the container. Excess minerals and common tap water additives may be stressing the plant out.
Feed your houseplant spring through fall with a diluted soluble plant food every two weeks. However, improper dilution or frequent feeding will lead to a build-up of the salts found in fertilizer. This can be flushed from the soil or, in extreme cases, repot the plant with a high quality houseplant soil.
If you have considered and corrected all these possible causes, and you still say, “My prayer plant has brown leaves,” you may need to look through a magnifying glass to identify the culprits. Several sucking or chewing insects may have hitchhiked into your home and are damaging the tissue of the leaves, which will die and brown.
Look carefully for these invaders and use a horticultural soap to control them. You can also put the plant in the shower and hose off most of the pests. Just remember to let the plant drain completely and adjust your watering schedule to reflect that excess water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
If you’re a fan of the carnivorous pitcher plant, you’ll eventually want to propagate some of your specimens to add to your collection. These plants may look exotic, but propagating pitcher plants is no harder than propagating any other plant. Pitcher plant propagation can be done in a number of ways, but planting seeds or rooting cuttings are the best methods for home growers to succeed. Learn more about how to propagate a pitcher plant and you’ll increase your collection with very little effort.
Pitcher Plant Seeds
Collect the pitcher plant seeds in late fall by pinching open the dry capsules over an envelope or piece of paper towel. Drop the seeds into a sandwich bag, along with a fungicide such as Captan, and shake the bag to coat the seeds. Pour the seeds and powder onto a new sheet of paper towel and blow off the excess powder. Spread the seeds out on a dampened paper towel, roll up the towel and store it in a zip-top bag in the refrigerator for two to three months. Sprout the seeds by sprinkling them over a mixture of sand and peat moss. Water it and place the planter under grow lights 18 hours a day. Germination can take weeks, and the seedlings need to stay under the lights for at least four months before transplanting.
Pitcher Plant Cuttings
A faster way to propagate is by rooting pitcher plant cuttings. Cut pieces of stem that have two or three leaves on them, and clip off half of each leaf. Cut the bottom end of the stem on a diagonal and cover it with rooting hormone powder. Fill a planter with sphagnum moss and wet it. Make a hole in the damp moss with a pencil, place the powdered stem in the hole and push the moss around the stem to secure it. Water the pot again, place it in a plastic bag and place it under grow lights. The pitcher plant cuttings should root within two months, and can be transplanted after they begin to grow new leaves.
Pitcher Plant Seeds
Collect the pitcher plant seeds in late fall by pinching open the dry capsules over an envelope or piece of paper towel. Drop the seeds into a sandwich bag, along with a fungicide such as Captan, and shake the bag to coat the seeds. Pour the seeds and powder onto a new sheet of paper towel and blow off the excess powder. Spread the seeds out on a dampened paper towel, roll up the towel and store it in a zip-top bag in the refrigerator for two to three months. Sprout the seeds by sprinkling them over a mixture of sand and peat moss. Water it and place the planter under grow lights 18 hours a day. Germination can take weeks, and the seedlings need to stay under the lights for at least four months before transplanting.
Pitcher Plant Cuttings
A faster way to propagate is by rooting pitcher plant cuttings. Cut pieces of stem that have two or three leaves on them, and clip off half of each leaf. Cut the bottom end of the stem on a diagonal and cover it with rooting hormone powder. Fill a planter with sphagnum moss and wet it. Make a hole in the damp moss with a pencil, place the powdered stem in the hole and push the moss around the stem to secure it. Water the pot again, place it in a plastic bag and place it under grow lights. The pitcher plant cuttings should root within two months, and can be transplanted after they begin to grow new leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Every healthy houseplant eventually needs repotting, and your exotic pitcher plants are no different. The soilless mix that your plant lives in will eventually compact and shrink, leaving little room for the roots to grow. If you’re wondering, “When do I repot a pitcher plant?” every one to two years is the best interval. Learn how to repot pitcher plants and your carnivorous collection will enjoy roomy new homes. 
When Do I Repot a Pitcher Plant?
Pitcher plants, like other plants, do best when you repot them early in the spring before they have a chance to produce new growth. When your plant is still dormant, right before the spring arrives, remove it from its pot and gently remove as much planting medium as you can using a chopstick or other small object.
Make a new potting mixture of ½ cup of sand, ½ cup of washed charcoal, 1 cup of sphagnum moss and 1 cup of peat moss. Mix the ingredients together thoroughly. Stand the pitcher plant in a new plastic planter and gently drop planting mix into the pot to cover the roots. Tap the planter on the table to settle the mix, then add more on top. Water the mix to remove any air pockets, and top off the mix if needed.
Pitcher Plant Care
Pitcher plant care is relatively simple if you give them the right growing conditions. Always use plastic planters, as terra cotta ones will absorb salts too quickly. Once you have repotted the plants, place them in dappled sunlight or behind sheer curtains. Keep the potting mix moist at all times, but never let the pot stand in water or the plant may develop root rot.
Pitcher plants only need one or two insects a month, but if your plant hasn’t been lucky lately, give it a small, freshly-killed bug once a month to add nutrients.
When Do I Repot a Pitcher Plant?
Pitcher plants, like other plants, do best when you repot them early in the spring before they have a chance to produce new growth. When your plant is still dormant, right before the spring arrives, remove it from its pot and gently remove as much planting medium as you can using a chopstick or other small object.
Make a new potting mixture of ½ cup of sand, ½ cup of washed charcoal, 1 cup of sphagnum moss and 1 cup of peat moss. Mix the ingredients together thoroughly. Stand the pitcher plant in a new plastic planter and gently drop planting mix into the pot to cover the roots. Tap the planter on the table to settle the mix, then add more on top. Water the mix to remove any air pockets, and top off the mix if needed.
Pitcher Plant Care
Pitcher plant care is relatively simple if you give them the right growing conditions. Always use plastic planters, as terra cotta ones will absorb salts too quickly. Once you have repotted the plants, place them in dappled sunlight or behind sheer curtains. Keep the potting mix moist at all times, but never let the pot stand in water or the plant may develop root rot.
Pitcher plants only need one or two insects a month, but if your plant hasn’t been lucky lately, give it a small, freshly-killed bug once a month to add nutrients.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Sarracenia, or pitcher plants, are native to North America. They are classic carnivorous plants that use trapped insects as part of their nutrient needs. These specimens need moist conditions and are often found near water. Most varieties are not extremely cold hardy, which makes pitcher plant care over winter very important. During pitcher plant dormancy, some exposure to chilly temperatures is necessary but most are not hardy below USDA zone 7. Over wintering pitcher plants in colder zones will require moving the plants or providing them with protection from the cold weather.
A Word About Pitcher Plants
Pitcher plants are bog plants and are often grown as part of a water garden or at the edge of a water feature. The genus Sarracenia supports 15 different varieties scattered across North America. Most are common in zone 6 and readily survive their areas cold snaps. Plants that grow in zone 7, such as S. rosea, S. minor and S. psittacina, need a little help when freezes occur but can usually stay outside in cold temperatures. The most cold hardy species, Sarracenia purpura, can survive zone 5 outside. Can pitcher plant survive indoors during the winter? Any variety of pitcher plant is suitable for growing in a greenhouse with controlled conditions. Smaller varieties may be brought into the home for winter if you provide air circulation, humidity and a warm situation.
Caring for Pitcher Plants in the Winter
Plants in USDA zone 6 are acclimated to short freezing periods. Pitcher plant dormancy requires the chilling period and then warm temperatures that signal it to break dormancy. The chilling requirement is important for all species of Sarracenia to signal when it is time to begin growing again. In extreme cold, apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plants to protect the roots. If you have varieties growing in water, break the ice and keep the water trays full. Caring for pitcher plants in winter in colder zones will require you to bring them indoors. Potted species of S. purpurea can stay outdoors in a sheltered location. All other varieties should be brought in to a cool covered location, such as a garage or unheated basement. Reduce water and do not fertilize when providing pitcher plant care over winter for the less hardy species.
Can Pitcher Plant Survive Indoors During the Winter?
This is a great question. As with any plant, the key to overwintering pitcher plants is to mimic their natural habitat. This means each species will need different average temperatures, longer or shorter dormancy periods and slightly different site and growing conditions. Overall, it is safe to say that pitcher plants need warm growing conditions, plenty of moisture, peat or acidic soil, medium light levels and at least 30 percent humidity. All these conditions can be difficult to provide in the home environment. However, since the plants are dormant for three to four months, their growing needs have slowed down. Bring potted plants to a low light area where temperatures are below 60 F. (16 C.), reduce the amount of water they have and wait for three months, then gradually reintroduce the plant to higher light and heat conditions.
A Word About Pitcher Plants
Pitcher plants are bog plants and are often grown as part of a water garden or at the edge of a water feature. The genus Sarracenia supports 15 different varieties scattered across North America. Most are common in zone 6 and readily survive their areas cold snaps. Plants that grow in zone 7, such as S. rosea, S. minor and S. psittacina, need a little help when freezes occur but can usually stay outside in cold temperatures. The most cold hardy species, Sarracenia purpura, can survive zone 5 outside. Can pitcher plant survive indoors during the winter? Any variety of pitcher plant is suitable for growing in a greenhouse with controlled conditions. Smaller varieties may be brought into the home for winter if you provide air circulation, humidity and a warm situation.
Caring for Pitcher Plants in the Winter
Plants in USDA zone 6 are acclimated to short freezing periods. Pitcher plant dormancy requires the chilling period and then warm temperatures that signal it to break dormancy. The chilling requirement is important for all species of Sarracenia to signal when it is time to begin growing again. In extreme cold, apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plants to protect the roots. If you have varieties growing in water, break the ice and keep the water trays full. Caring for pitcher plants in winter in colder zones will require you to bring them indoors. Potted species of S. purpurea can stay outdoors in a sheltered location. All other varieties should be brought in to a cool covered location, such as a garage or unheated basement. Reduce water and do not fertilize when providing pitcher plant care over winter for the less hardy species.
Can Pitcher Plant Survive Indoors During the Winter?
This is a great question. As with any plant, the key to overwintering pitcher plants is to mimic their natural habitat. This means each species will need different average temperatures, longer or shorter dormancy periods and slightly different site and growing conditions. Overall, it is safe to say that pitcher plants need warm growing conditions, plenty of moisture, peat or acidic soil, medium light levels and at least 30 percent humidity. All these conditions can be difficult to provide in the home environment. However, since the plants are dormant for three to four months, their growing needs have slowed down. Bring potted plants to a low light area where temperatures are below 60 F. (16 C.), reduce the amount of water they have and wait for three months, then gradually reintroduce the plant to higher light and heat conditions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Pitcher plant care is relatively easy and they make interesting houseplants or outdoor specimens in milder climes. Do pitcher plants need fertilizer? In ideal conditions, the plant makes all the food it needs by supplementing with insects that provide nitrogen. Indoor plants may need a little help in the nitrogen department. Find out how to fertilize a pitcher plant and enjoy the distinctive appearance and habits of this amazing species.
Do Pitcher Plants Need Fertilizer?
Sarracenia is a large group of carnivorous plants found across the globe. More commonly known as pitcher plant, the genus is formed of plants that have found a unique way to survive in low nutrient soil. Sarracenia are North American natives. Nepenthes are the tropical varieties of pitcher plant, which need warm weather and plenty of humidity. The plants harvest insects by trapping them in their pitcher-shaped leaves. The insects provide nitrogen for the plant’s growth and health. In the wild they thrive without anyone feeding, but potbound plants will benefit from additional nutritional supplementation. Seedlings also need some food in addition to their soil medium since they do not have properly formed pitchers in which to catch gnats and other tiny insects.
Basic Pitcher Plant Care
Use any porous potting mix, such as orchid mix, for growing pitcher plants. It should be slightly acidic and well draining. Plant pitcher plants in an unglazed ceramic pot with good drainage holes. Both groups of the plant require plenty of water and should never be allowed to dry out. They love to be in a dish of water or even at the edge of a water garden. An important part of pitcher plant care is the type of water. These plants are sensitive to tap water and should be in contact with distilled or rain water only. Full sun locations are preferable with some shelter from the harshest midday rays. Outdoor plants have plenty of opportunity to catch flies while indoor plants may need you to hunt for them. Without supplemental insects, fertilizing pitcher plants is necessary to keep them healthy.
How to Fertilize a Pitcher Plant
Pitcher plants should not be fertilized over the soil. The plants are used to low nutrient soil in their native habitats and excess nutrients can actually kill them. Instead, if the plant is doing poorly, try to feed it an insect via the pitcher structures or add diluted liquid fertilizer directly into the tubular leaves. A high nitrogen pitcher plant fertilizer is perfect to fulfill the plant’s needs. A mild fish fertilizer diluted by one-quarter every two to four weeks can be added to the pitcher. Young plants and seedlings benefit more from fertilizer and may be soil fed. Dilute by half and follow any soil feeding with a drench of rainwater or distilled water. Make sure the pitcher is at least half full before fertilizing pitcher plants. Outdoor plants should be fine without extra feeding, provided they are in a moist, acidic soil and bright light. Some commercial formulas that work well as pitcher plant fertilizer are Osmocote, Miracid and Miracle Grow. Don’t forget to dilute the fertilizer heavily with mineral free water.
Do Pitcher Plants Need Fertilizer?
Sarracenia is a large group of carnivorous plants found across the globe. More commonly known as pitcher plant, the genus is formed of plants that have found a unique way to survive in low nutrient soil. Sarracenia are North American natives. Nepenthes are the tropical varieties of pitcher plant, which need warm weather and plenty of humidity. The plants harvest insects by trapping them in their pitcher-shaped leaves. The insects provide nitrogen for the plant’s growth and health. In the wild they thrive without anyone feeding, but potbound plants will benefit from additional nutritional supplementation. Seedlings also need some food in addition to their soil medium since they do not have properly formed pitchers in which to catch gnats and other tiny insects.
Basic Pitcher Plant Care
Use any porous potting mix, such as orchid mix, for growing pitcher plants. It should be slightly acidic and well draining. Plant pitcher plants in an unglazed ceramic pot with good drainage holes. Both groups of the plant require plenty of water and should never be allowed to dry out. They love to be in a dish of water or even at the edge of a water garden. An important part of pitcher plant care is the type of water. These plants are sensitive to tap water and should be in contact with distilled or rain water only. Full sun locations are preferable with some shelter from the harshest midday rays. Outdoor plants have plenty of opportunity to catch flies while indoor plants may need you to hunt for them. Without supplemental insects, fertilizing pitcher plants is necessary to keep them healthy.
How to Fertilize a Pitcher Plant
Pitcher plants should not be fertilized over the soil. The plants are used to low nutrient soil in their native habitats and excess nutrients can actually kill them. Instead, if the plant is doing poorly, try to feed it an insect via the pitcher structures or add diluted liquid fertilizer directly into the tubular leaves. A high nitrogen pitcher plant fertilizer is perfect to fulfill the plant’s needs. A mild fish fertilizer diluted by one-quarter every two to four weeks can be added to the pitcher. Young plants and seedlings benefit more from fertilizer and may be soil fed. Dilute by half and follow any soil feeding with a drench of rainwater or distilled water. Make sure the pitcher is at least half full before fertilizing pitcher plants. Outdoor plants should be fine without extra feeding, provided they are in a moist, acidic soil and bright light. Some commercial formulas that work well as pitcher plant fertilizer are Osmocote, Miracid and Miracle Grow. Don’t forget to dilute the fertilizer heavily with mineral free water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are fascinating carnivorous plants that harvest insects and feed on their juices. They do this because traditionally, these bog plants live in low nitrogen areas and must get nutrients in other ways. Pitcher plants make interesting indoor plants, especially the tender, tropical Nepenthes varieties. Sarracenia varieties are native to North America and can survive outside in many zones. As with any plant, diseases of pitcher plant may occur and should be dealt with immediately. There are also some common pests of pitcher plants that can chew away the modified pitcher shaped leaf, preventing the plant from harvesting its food.
Pitcher Plant Problems
The most common pitcher plant problems lie in cultivation and environmental issues. That said, there are a few pitcher plant diseases and pests that may affect them as well. Environmental Issues Outdoor plants can survive some freezing temperatures with a thick blanket of mulch around the rhizome area. However, the freezing temperatures before the plant is fully dormant may kill the rhizomes. Dig up the plant and check for any firm, white rhizomes and replant these, discarding the mushy discolored sections. Pitcher plants are bog plants but they can also drown in solid clay soils, so be careful to ensure proper drainage. Chemical drift from sprayed pesticides or herbicides is also a danger to the plant.
Diseases of Pitcher Plant Pitcher plants should not be fertilized. As a bog plant engineered to harvesting its own nutrients, it is adaptable to low nutrient soils. Indoor plants may look yellow or unhealthy due to too few insects for harvest. In this case, fertilize with a half dilution of liquid plant food directly into a pitcher that has water in it. Direct fertilization of the soil can encourage natural soil borne spores from Rhizoctonia and Fusarium, which are very common fungal diseases of pitcher plants. Fertilizing promotes the formation of these spores to multiply rapidly and they can wreak havoc on your pitcher plant. Pitcher plant diseases such as these can enter through the roots, destroying the vascular system of the plant or just affect the foliage. Either way, the damage seriously affects the health of the plant. Pests of Pitcher Plants One might think that any insects that get near the plant will become food and good riddance. This is true for many flying and creeping species, but some smaller foes exist that are too numerous and persistent for the plant to handle.
Spider mites attach when a plant is dry and the weather is hot. Keep the plant moist to avoid injury to the plant from their sucking habits. More obvious in their damage are thrips. You cannot see these teeny little insects well but deformed leaves will signal their presence. To verify that they are in residence, hold a white piece of paper under the leaves and shake the foliage gently. If you see tiny black spots that move, you have thrips. Aphids, leafhoppers and mealybugs will also make a meal of your pitcher plant. Control them using water rinses and an application of a product called Orthene applied as a spray. Neem oil is also effective. Follow the directions carefully when using any pesticide and spray outdoors.
Pitcher Plant Problems
The most common pitcher plant problems lie in cultivation and environmental issues. That said, there are a few pitcher plant diseases and pests that may affect them as well. Environmental Issues Outdoor plants can survive some freezing temperatures with a thick blanket of mulch around the rhizome area. However, the freezing temperatures before the plant is fully dormant may kill the rhizomes. Dig up the plant and check for any firm, white rhizomes and replant these, discarding the mushy discolored sections. Pitcher plants are bog plants but they can also drown in solid clay soils, so be careful to ensure proper drainage. Chemical drift from sprayed pesticides or herbicides is also a danger to the plant.
Diseases of Pitcher Plant Pitcher plants should not be fertilized. As a bog plant engineered to harvesting its own nutrients, it is adaptable to low nutrient soils. Indoor plants may look yellow or unhealthy due to too few insects for harvest. In this case, fertilize with a half dilution of liquid plant food directly into a pitcher that has water in it. Direct fertilization of the soil can encourage natural soil borne spores from Rhizoctonia and Fusarium, which are very common fungal diseases of pitcher plants. Fertilizing promotes the formation of these spores to multiply rapidly and they can wreak havoc on your pitcher plant. Pitcher plant diseases such as these can enter through the roots, destroying the vascular system of the plant or just affect the foliage. Either way, the damage seriously affects the health of the plant. Pests of Pitcher Plants One might think that any insects that get near the plant will become food and good riddance. This is true for many flying and creeping species, but some smaller foes exist that are too numerous and persistent for the plant to handle.
Spider mites attach when a plant is dry and the weather is hot. Keep the plant moist to avoid injury to the plant from their sucking habits. More obvious in their damage are thrips. You cannot see these teeny little insects well but deformed leaves will signal their presence. To verify that they are in residence, hold a white piece of paper under the leaves and shake the foliage gently. If you see tiny black spots that move, you have thrips. Aphids, leafhoppers and mealybugs will also make a meal of your pitcher plant. Control them using water rinses and an application of a product called Orthene applied as a spray. Neem oil is also effective. Follow the directions carefully when using any pesticide and spray outdoors.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Ponytail bonsai plants are an interesting addition to any home décor and can be grown indoors or out (during the warm season). This lovely bonsai is native to Mexico. The ponytail palm bonsai tree is great a great low-maintenance option for the bonsai enthusiast or even for those that are new to bonsai plants. Bonsai ponytail palms are unique and have a trunk that resembles an elephant’s foot and cascading foliage. For this reason, this hardy plant is sometimes called “Elephants Foot.” The trunk is extremely practical and will hold enough water for four weeks.
Ponytail Palm Bonsai Care
Ponytail palm bonsai care does not differ much from that of any ponytail palm tree. This bonsai plant likes lots of sun but not for an extended amount of time. Some afternoon shade is best, especially if grown outdoors. Many people kill ponytail bonsai plants by overwatering. Careful attention to keeping the soil moist but not overly saturated will help to prevent this from happening. It is generally necessary to repot the ponytail palm bonsai tree once every 3 years.
How to Prune Ponytail Palm Bonsai Plants
Trimming ponytail palms can be done any time of the year but is best during the growing season of spring through early fall. Use clean and sharp bonsai shears to trim leaves on top of the plant. This will force the foliage to grow downward and resemble a ponytail. Remove any damaged leaves that may be brown or wilted. Be sure that you are sitting at eye level with the plant and take a break often to check your work so that you do not trim too much away.
If cuts become brown or tattered looking after trimming ponytail palms, you can apply some pruning paint. This will encourage healing of your ponytail bonsai palms.
Ponytail Palm Bonsai Care
Ponytail palm bonsai care does not differ much from that of any ponytail palm tree. This bonsai plant likes lots of sun but not for an extended amount of time. Some afternoon shade is best, especially if grown outdoors. Many people kill ponytail bonsai plants by overwatering. Careful attention to keeping the soil moist but not overly saturated will help to prevent this from happening. It is generally necessary to repot the ponytail palm bonsai tree once every 3 years.
How to Prune Ponytail Palm Bonsai Plants
Trimming ponytail palms can be done any time of the year but is best during the growing season of spring through early fall. Use clean and sharp bonsai shears to trim leaves on top of the plant. This will force the foliage to grow downward and resemble a ponytail. Remove any damaged leaves that may be brown or wilted. Be sure that you are sitting at eye level with the plant and take a break often to check your work so that you do not trim too much away.
If cuts become brown or tattered looking after trimming ponytail palms, you can apply some pruning paint. This will encourage healing of your ponytail bonsai palms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Ponytail palm plants are useful in the tropical to semi-tropical exterior landscape or as a potted specimen for the home. The palms develop pups, or side shoots, as they mature. These smaller versions of the parent plant are easy to divide away from the mother palm. Propagating ponytail palm pups will give you new little palms to share with friends and family or just provide you with another source of this attractive ornamental succulent.
About Ponytail Palm Plants
Another name for this plant is elephant’s foot palm due to its thick, roughly skinned trunk. It is in the same family as agave plants and native to southeastern scrub desserts of Mexico. It is not a true palm but a succulent, which saves moisture in the trunk.
In times of drought, the trunk will shrink in diameter and get slightly shriveled bark. When the rainy season arrives, it sucks up and stores as much moisture as it can and the trunk swells markedly. It is not a hardy plant in cooler zones and can sustain damage to the roots and trunk in excessively wet soils. As a container plant, ponytail palm care is minimal and the plant thrives on long periods of neglect. The palm is slow growing but may get up to 30 feet in its native habit, although it is more likely to be less than 10 feet in captivity.
Ponytail Palm Shoots
This lively little plant produces side pups as a method of propagating itself. Once the palm has matured, it begins to grow smaller versions of itself that sprout from the base of the mother. Removing pups from ponytail palms is the easiest way to grow more of the succulent palm. Ponytail palm shoots divide easily from the parent plant and then require rooting to produce viable plants.
Propagating Ponytail Palm Pups
Spring is the best time to divide ponytail palm shoots. Carefully excavate around the base of the parent plant to expose the base of the pups. Use a clean, sharp knife and cut the pup away from the adult plant. Pups that are 4 inches tall are usually forming a root base and make the best starts. Use a nearly soilless medium, such as a cactus mix or sand-based potting soil. Place the rooted end of the pup in moistened medium in a well-draining container. Cover the container with a plastic bag lightly secured around the edges of the pot. Place the container in a warm room in moderate light. Every few days, uncover the pot and mist the surface of the soil.
Ponytail Palm Care For Newly Potted Pups
Provided soil drainage is adequate and you do not overwater the palm, this plant is remarkably unfussy. The plant only needs water every two weeks or so and you can completely suspend watering in the winter months. Cut off damaged or diseased foliage as it occurs and repot every 2 to 3 years. Optimum temperatures for ponytail palm plants are 70 to 80 F. (21 to 27 C.), but they do quite well in average home interior temperatures.
About Ponytail Palm Plants
Another name for this plant is elephant’s foot palm due to its thick, roughly skinned trunk. It is in the same family as agave plants and native to southeastern scrub desserts of Mexico. It is not a true palm but a succulent, which saves moisture in the trunk.
In times of drought, the trunk will shrink in diameter and get slightly shriveled bark. When the rainy season arrives, it sucks up and stores as much moisture as it can and the trunk swells markedly. It is not a hardy plant in cooler zones and can sustain damage to the roots and trunk in excessively wet soils. As a container plant, ponytail palm care is minimal and the plant thrives on long periods of neglect. The palm is slow growing but may get up to 30 feet in its native habit, although it is more likely to be less than 10 feet in captivity.
Ponytail Palm Shoots
This lively little plant produces side pups as a method of propagating itself. Once the palm has matured, it begins to grow smaller versions of itself that sprout from the base of the mother. Removing pups from ponytail palms is the easiest way to grow more of the succulent palm. Ponytail palm shoots divide easily from the parent plant and then require rooting to produce viable plants.
Propagating Ponytail Palm Pups
Spring is the best time to divide ponytail palm shoots. Carefully excavate around the base of the parent plant to expose the base of the pups. Use a clean, sharp knife and cut the pup away from the adult plant. Pups that are 4 inches tall are usually forming a root base and make the best starts. Use a nearly soilless medium, such as a cactus mix or sand-based potting soil. Place the rooted end of the pup in moistened medium in a well-draining container. Cover the container with a plastic bag lightly secured around the edges of the pot. Place the container in a warm room in moderate light. Every few days, uncover the pot and mist the surface of the soil.
Ponytail Palm Care For Newly Potted Pups
Provided soil drainage is adequate and you do not overwater the palm, this plant is remarkably unfussy. The plant only needs water every two weeks or so and you can completely suspend watering in the winter months. Cut off damaged or diseased foliage as it occurs and repot every 2 to 3 years. Optimum temperatures for ponytail palm plants are 70 to 80 F. (21 to 27 C.), but they do quite well in average home interior temperatures.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
When people ask how to transplant a ponytail palm tree (Beaucarnea recurvata), the most important factor is the size of the tree. If you grow small ponytail palms in pots, or grow them as bonsai plants, swapping out the pot is not a complex procedure. However, ponytail palms grown in the ground, or in large pots, can reach 18 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Transplanting large ponytail palms is a very different matter than moving a small one into a slightly bigger pot. Read on to learn about ponytail palm replanting.
Can I Replant My Ponytail Palm?
It is entirely possible to repot or transplant a ponytail palm, no matter how large it is. You can undertake ponytail palm replanting yourself, as long as you follow the general guidelines. Transplanting large ponytail palms, however, requires the assistance of many strong arms and even a tractor. If you have a potted ponytail palm, consider well before moving it to a bigger pot. Potted ponytail palms are happiest when root bound. If you are trying to grow it as a bonsai, repotting may not be a good idea since ponytail palm replanting encourages the plant to grow bigger.
When to Move Ponytail Palms
Knowing when to move ponytail palms is important to the transplant effort. The best time to repot or transplant a ponytail palm is in early spring or summer. This gives the plant many months to establish new roots before winter chill sets in.
How to Transplant a Ponytail Palm Tree in a Pot
If you decide your potted palm needs a little more root room, you need to figure out how to transplant a ponytail palm tree. Small ponytail palms grown in containers are fairly easy to move to bigger pots. First, remove the plant from its pot by sliding a flat instrument, like a dinner knife, around the inside of the container. Once the plant is out of the pot, wash the roots in running water to remove the soil. Inspect the roots. If any roots are damaged or rotted, clip them back. Also, trim out as any root section with insects. Trim back big, older roots, then apply a rooting hormone to those roots that are left. Repot the plant in a slightly larger container. Use soil made up of half potting soil and half a mix of perlite, vermiculite, shredded bark and sand.
Transplanting Large Ponytail Palms
You’ll need help in the form of strong human beings if you are transplanting large ponytail palms. Depending on the size of the plant, you may also need a crane and tractor. You’ll need to dig a moat around the tree some 20 inches out from the bulb area at its base. Continue digging until you are below the main part of the root system. Slide a shovel under the rootball to sever any small descending roots. Use strong assistants – and perhaps a crane – to lift the tree, root ball and all, from the hole. Transport it by tractor to its new location. Place the root ball in the new hole at about the same depth as in the prior hole. Water the plant in, then withhold additional water until the plant is established in its new location.
Can I Replant My Ponytail Palm?
It is entirely possible to repot or transplant a ponytail palm, no matter how large it is. You can undertake ponytail palm replanting yourself, as long as you follow the general guidelines. Transplanting large ponytail palms, however, requires the assistance of many strong arms and even a tractor. If you have a potted ponytail palm, consider well before moving it to a bigger pot. Potted ponytail palms are happiest when root bound. If you are trying to grow it as a bonsai, repotting may not be a good idea since ponytail palm replanting encourages the plant to grow bigger.
When to Move Ponytail Palms
Knowing when to move ponytail palms is important to the transplant effort. The best time to repot or transplant a ponytail palm is in early spring or summer. This gives the plant many months to establish new roots before winter chill sets in.
How to Transplant a Ponytail Palm Tree in a Pot
If you decide your potted palm needs a little more root room, you need to figure out how to transplant a ponytail palm tree. Small ponytail palms grown in containers are fairly easy to move to bigger pots. First, remove the plant from its pot by sliding a flat instrument, like a dinner knife, around the inside of the container. Once the plant is out of the pot, wash the roots in running water to remove the soil. Inspect the roots. If any roots are damaged or rotted, clip them back. Also, trim out as any root section with insects. Trim back big, older roots, then apply a rooting hormone to those roots that are left. Repot the plant in a slightly larger container. Use soil made up of half potting soil and half a mix of perlite, vermiculite, shredded bark and sand.
Transplanting Large Ponytail Palms
You’ll need help in the form of strong human beings if you are transplanting large ponytail palms. Depending on the size of the plant, you may also need a crane and tractor. You’ll need to dig a moat around the tree some 20 inches out from the bulb area at its base. Continue digging until you are below the main part of the root system. Slide a shovel under the rootball to sever any small descending roots. Use strong assistants – and perhaps a crane – to lift the tree, root ball and all, from the hole. Transport it by tractor to its new location. Place the root ball in the new hole at about the same depth as in the prior hole. Water the plant in, then withhold additional water until the plant is established in its new location.
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