文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
The genus Euphorbia boasts a number of fascinating and beautiful plants, and the Medusa’s Head euphorbia is one of the most unique. Medusa’s Head plants, native to South Africa, grow numerous grayish-green, snake-like branches extending from a central hub that keeps the twisty, leafless branches supplied with moisture and nutrients. In perfect conditions, the plants can measure as much as 3 feet across, and yellowish-green blooms appear around the hub in spring and summer. Want to learn how to grow a Medusa’s Head? Read on.
How to Grow a Medusa’s Head Euphorbia
You may be lucky enough to find Medusa’s Head plants (Euphorbia caput-medusae) at a garden center that specializes in cacti and succulents. If you have a friend with a mature plant, ask if you can have a cutting to propagate your own plant. Let the cut end dry for a few days to develop a callus before planting.
Medusa’s Head euphorbia is suitable for growing outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9b through 11. Euphorbia requires at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and tolerates temperatures in the low 90s (33-35 C.). However, afternoon shade is beneficial in hotter climates, as extreme heat may stress the plant. Well-drained soil is absolutely critical; these plants are likely to rot in soggy soil. This fascinating plant also does well in pots, but requires a well-drained potting mix such as a mixture of pumice, coarse sand and potting soil.
Euphorbia Medusa’s Head Care
Although Medusa’s Head is drought tolerant, the plant benefits from regular moisture during summer and won’t tolerant long periods of drought. In general, one watering every week or so is enough. Again, be sure the soil drains well and never allow the soil to become waterlogged. Medusa’s Head plants in containers shouldn’t be watered during the winter months, although you can water the plant very lightly if it begins to look shriveled. Fertilize the plant monthly during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer mixed to half strength. Otherwise, caring for Medusa’s Head isn’t complicated. Watch for mealybugs and spider mites. Be sure the plant isn’t crowded, as good air circulation can prevent powdery mildew. Note: Be careful when working with Medusa’s Head plants. Like all Euphorbia, the plant contains sap that can irritate eyes and skin.
How to Grow a Medusa’s Head Euphorbia
You may be lucky enough to find Medusa’s Head plants (Euphorbia caput-medusae) at a garden center that specializes in cacti and succulents. If you have a friend with a mature plant, ask if you can have a cutting to propagate your own plant. Let the cut end dry for a few days to develop a callus before planting.
Medusa’s Head euphorbia is suitable for growing outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9b through 11. Euphorbia requires at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and tolerates temperatures in the low 90s (33-35 C.). However, afternoon shade is beneficial in hotter climates, as extreme heat may stress the plant. Well-drained soil is absolutely critical; these plants are likely to rot in soggy soil. This fascinating plant also does well in pots, but requires a well-drained potting mix such as a mixture of pumice, coarse sand and potting soil.
Euphorbia Medusa’s Head Care
Although Medusa’s Head is drought tolerant, the plant benefits from regular moisture during summer and won’t tolerant long periods of drought. In general, one watering every week or so is enough. Again, be sure the soil drains well and never allow the soil to become waterlogged. Medusa’s Head plants in containers shouldn’t be watered during the winter months, although you can water the plant very lightly if it begins to look shriveled. Fertilize the plant monthly during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer mixed to half strength. Otherwise, caring for Medusa’s Head isn’t complicated. Watch for mealybugs and spider mites. Be sure the plant isn’t crowded, as good air circulation can prevent powdery mildew. Note: Be careful when working with Medusa’s Head plants. Like all Euphorbia, the plant contains sap that can irritate eyes and skin.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Euphorbia plants (Euphorbia spp.) also go by the easier to say, but less elegant, name of Spurge. They are a family of plants that may be grown as houseplants or occasionally outdoors. There are many varieties of Euphorbia plants, with fascinating forms that range from shrubs, herbs, or cactus-like specimens. Growing Euphorbias is easy and some are hardy in temperate climates. These are easy to start from seed and propagate from cuttings. Learn how to cultivate a Euphorbia plant that will start conversations and cause second looks.
About Euphorbia Plants
Euphorbias occur naturally in many parts of the world, but most notably Africa, Asia, Europe and North and South America. The variation of form and size provide a spectacle of plant life. Some are as large as trees and others range as small ground covers. There are over 2,000 species, many of which you will find familiar from interior commercial plantings. Crown of thorns is recognizable by its spiky stems, and donkey spurge is aptly named with thick rope-like stems sprawling away from the plant. Poinsettias are a form of Euphorbia that is recognizable to almost everyone. Most varieties of Euphorbia plants produce weird and unusual flowers. Gardeners should be cautious when handling Spurge, as all varieties have a milky latex sap that can be irritating or even poisonous.
How to Cultivate a Euphorbia Plant
As a general rule, Spurge requires well-drained soil in full sun. A few tolerate shadier conditions, but none of the family is fussy about soil condition. They even thrive in very poor soils and can tolerate periods of drought. Euphorbia plant care is simple. Provide them light, moderate moisture and watch for annoying pests, like whitefly. Provide water under the plant’s leaves to prevent powdery mildew. You will not need to fertilize Spurge often. Wait until the bottom leaves become yellow before feeding with a water-soluble plant food. Prune when the plant gets out of hand. These plants are almost impossible to kill and are a perfect choice for the novice gardener. Growing Euphorbia to share with a friend is also a great beginner propagation project.
Additional Growing Tips for Euphorbia
Spurge grows quite well from seeds sown indoors in pots. You can propagate Euphorbia more quickly and easily by gathering up the “volunteers” around an established plant. You may also root stem cuttings in a soilless medium, such as peat. Keep them lightly misted and enclose the pot in a bag to keep moisture in. Let the pot breathe once a day for an hour, so the soil does not mold. Once the cutting has rooted, you can pot it in regular soil or plant outdoors in moderate climates. One of the more important growing tips for Euphorbia is to let the stem cutting dry for a few days before planting. This allows the sap to form a callus on the cut end and prevents rotting. Whether you want a giant thornless cactus specimen 6 feet tall or a creeping, sweetly flowering ground cover, you should try growing Euphorbias. They reward the gardener with more than just good looks, but remind us all of the variety and beauty found in nature.
About Euphorbia Plants
Euphorbias occur naturally in many parts of the world, but most notably Africa, Asia, Europe and North and South America. The variation of form and size provide a spectacle of plant life. Some are as large as trees and others range as small ground covers. There are over 2,000 species, many of which you will find familiar from interior commercial plantings. Crown of thorns is recognizable by its spiky stems, and donkey spurge is aptly named with thick rope-like stems sprawling away from the plant. Poinsettias are a form of Euphorbia that is recognizable to almost everyone. Most varieties of Euphorbia plants produce weird and unusual flowers. Gardeners should be cautious when handling Spurge, as all varieties have a milky latex sap that can be irritating or even poisonous.
How to Cultivate a Euphorbia Plant
As a general rule, Spurge requires well-drained soil in full sun. A few tolerate shadier conditions, but none of the family is fussy about soil condition. They even thrive in very poor soils and can tolerate periods of drought. Euphorbia plant care is simple. Provide them light, moderate moisture and watch for annoying pests, like whitefly. Provide water under the plant’s leaves to prevent powdery mildew. You will not need to fertilize Spurge often. Wait until the bottom leaves become yellow before feeding with a water-soluble plant food. Prune when the plant gets out of hand. These plants are almost impossible to kill and are a perfect choice for the novice gardener. Growing Euphorbia to share with a friend is also a great beginner propagation project.
Additional Growing Tips for Euphorbia
Spurge grows quite well from seeds sown indoors in pots. You can propagate Euphorbia more quickly and easily by gathering up the “volunteers” around an established plant. You may also root stem cuttings in a soilless medium, such as peat. Keep them lightly misted and enclose the pot in a bag to keep moisture in. Let the pot breathe once a day for an hour, so the soil does not mold. Once the cutting has rooted, you can pot it in regular soil or plant outdoors in moderate climates. One of the more important growing tips for Euphorbia is to let the stem cutting dry for a few days before planting. This allows the sap to form a callus on the cut end and prevents rotting. Whether you want a giant thornless cactus specimen 6 feet tall or a creeping, sweetly flowering ground cover, you should try growing Euphorbias. They reward the gardener with more than just good looks, but remind us all of the variety and beauty found in nature.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Epiphyllum are epiphytic cacti as their name suggests. Some call them orchid cactus due to their large bright blooms and growth habit. Epiphytic plants grow on other plants, not in a parasitic fashion but as hosts. They are not cold hardy and generally can be found only as houseplants or greenhouse specimens. Caring for Epiphyllums is a water balancing act. They can’t be allowed to dry out, yet overwatering is a death sentence to these cacti. Here are a few tips on how to grow Epiphyllum and achieve healthy plants that will astound with their blooms and fruit.
Epihyllum Information
Epiphyllum make excellent hanging baskets with their jointed stems that grow 18 to 30 inches long. They are native to tropical Central and South America and span approximately 20 species. The pendant stems crown with spectacular flowers that last only a couple of days but produce from early winter through spring. They are a peculiar plant that flowers best when exposed to cool temperatures and shortened light periods. These cacti grow in tropical forests, nestled in tree crotches and rotting vegetation. They can live off of leaf mold and other organic wastes. In cultivation, they perform well in standard potting soil amended with peat and sand. Use clean sand, not the saline laden sand from a beach. They can be fussy about their water, so use bottled or de-mineralized water to prevent unfavorable reactions to treated tap water. An interesting bit of Epiphyllum information is that they grow edible fruit. The fruit is said to taste much like passion vine fruit and has a texture similar to kiwi, including the small black seeds.
How to Grow Epiphyllums
Collectors that are growing Epiphyllum cactus tend to call them “epis” for short. There are true Epiphyllums but also several hybrids available for trade. The plants start readily from seed but may take up to 5 years to bloom. A more common method of propagation with quicker results is from stem cutting taken in spring or summer. Make a clean cut on new growth and allow the end to callus for a couple of days. Push the callused end into clean potting soil that is moderately moist. Place the container in bright indirect light and keep soil misted. It can take 3 to 6 weeks for the cutting to root. New Epiphyllum plant care is the same as that for a mature plant.
Caring for Epiphyllum Cacti
Choose a filtered light location for growing Epiphyllum cactus. A site where they get full morning sun but shelter from high noon light is best for their growth. Use a diluted fertilizer of 10-10-10 during the growth periods in spring and fall. In February, use a ratio of 2-10-10 to promote flowering and root development. Once flowering has commenced, suspend feeding the plant until October. These plants appreciate cool temperatures and actually need to be exposed to 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 15 C.) in winter for a couple of weeks to force blooms. Temperatures below 35 F./1 C. will kill the plant, however. Keep the top 1/3 of the soil moderately damp but watch for standing water around the roots and don’t over water or fungus gnats and stem and root rot will become a problem. Epiphyllum plant care is all about balancing water and light needs. They have few insect or disease problems and will bloom, and possibly fruit, for an entire season with good management.
Epihyllum Information
Epiphyllum make excellent hanging baskets with their jointed stems that grow 18 to 30 inches long. They are native to tropical Central and South America and span approximately 20 species. The pendant stems crown with spectacular flowers that last only a couple of days but produce from early winter through spring. They are a peculiar plant that flowers best when exposed to cool temperatures and shortened light periods. These cacti grow in tropical forests, nestled in tree crotches and rotting vegetation. They can live off of leaf mold and other organic wastes. In cultivation, they perform well in standard potting soil amended with peat and sand. Use clean sand, not the saline laden sand from a beach. They can be fussy about their water, so use bottled or de-mineralized water to prevent unfavorable reactions to treated tap water. An interesting bit of Epiphyllum information is that they grow edible fruit. The fruit is said to taste much like passion vine fruit and has a texture similar to kiwi, including the small black seeds.
How to Grow Epiphyllums
Collectors that are growing Epiphyllum cactus tend to call them “epis” for short. There are true Epiphyllums but also several hybrids available for trade. The plants start readily from seed but may take up to 5 years to bloom. A more common method of propagation with quicker results is from stem cutting taken in spring or summer. Make a clean cut on new growth and allow the end to callus for a couple of days. Push the callused end into clean potting soil that is moderately moist. Place the container in bright indirect light and keep soil misted. It can take 3 to 6 weeks for the cutting to root. New Epiphyllum plant care is the same as that for a mature plant.
Caring for Epiphyllum Cacti
Choose a filtered light location for growing Epiphyllum cactus. A site where they get full morning sun but shelter from high noon light is best for their growth. Use a diluted fertilizer of 10-10-10 during the growth periods in spring and fall. In February, use a ratio of 2-10-10 to promote flowering and root development. Once flowering has commenced, suspend feeding the plant until October. These plants appreciate cool temperatures and actually need to be exposed to 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 15 C.) in winter for a couple of weeks to force blooms. Temperatures below 35 F./1 C. will kill the plant, however. Keep the top 1/3 of the soil moderately damp but watch for standing water around the roots and don’t over water or fungus gnats and stem and root rot will become a problem. Epiphyllum plant care is all about balancing water and light needs. They have few insect or disease problems and will bloom, and possibly fruit, for an entire season with good management.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Succulent plants are easy to love. Their ease of care, sunny dispositions and moderate growth habits make them perfect for warm seasons outdoors or well lit interiors. The Echeveria succulent plant is just such a specimen, thriving on brief periods of neglect and low water and nutrients. Echeveria care is practically foolproof and grows well in either containers or toasty garden beds. The many varieties and colors of Echeveria plants provide wonderful tones and texture for mixed beds and pots.
Details on Echeveria Plants
Echeveria spp. stem from thick-leaved rosettes. The leaves are fleshy and have a waxy cuticle on the exterior. Often the leaves are colored and a firm touch can mar the skin and leave marks. The Echeveria succulent plant is slow growing and usually doesn’t exceed 12 inches in height or spread.
Native from Texas to Central America, the plants prefer desert conditions, but will tolerate periods of moisture as long as they are allowed to dry out before applying more water. Growing Echeveria in an unglazed clay pot, which will allow water to evaporate, is ideal. Otherwise, they need full sun and well drained soil. There are 150 cultivated varieties of the plants, one of which is probably right for you.
Growing Echeveria
These easy little succulents produce offsets or baby plants nestled against the mother rosette. These are easy to separate and grow. Just pull the little rosette away and replant in a cactus mixture or homemade blend of equal parts sand, topsoil and compost. You can also start new plants from leaf cuttings. Simply lay the leaf on the surface of the soil. It will root within a few weeks and soon a small rosette will grow next to the rooted leaf. The leaf will dry up and crumble off of the new plant.
Care Instructions for Echeveria
The most important part of good Echeveria care is watering. The biggest issue with the succulents is overwatering. Provide moderate amounts of water in the hot, dry season. Let the soil dry out completely before you irrigate again. Potted plants should not be left in a wet saucer. Soft rots and root rot issues occur when the plant is too wet. The only other issue of concern is the mealybug. Their feeding behavior can seriously minimize the plants vigor. Situate the plants in full sun and mulch around them with gravel or sand to help prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Protect the plants from freezing temperatures and store potted plants indoors in winter. The plants do not need pruning, but you may pinch off damaged or errant growth as needed.
How to Use Echeveria
The sheer variety of these plants and other succulents means they lend themselves well to group displays. Potted displays with several varieties or different types of succulents and cacti make attractive additions to the home interior or exterior. Mix and match colors and sizes for unique settings. Put the larger varieties in the center and the trailing or shorter types at the edges. Continue general care instructions for Echeveria, which will also work for most other types of succulents.
Details on Echeveria Plants
Echeveria spp. stem from thick-leaved rosettes. The leaves are fleshy and have a waxy cuticle on the exterior. Often the leaves are colored and a firm touch can mar the skin and leave marks. The Echeveria succulent plant is slow growing and usually doesn’t exceed 12 inches in height or spread.
Native from Texas to Central America, the plants prefer desert conditions, but will tolerate periods of moisture as long as they are allowed to dry out before applying more water. Growing Echeveria in an unglazed clay pot, which will allow water to evaporate, is ideal. Otherwise, they need full sun and well drained soil. There are 150 cultivated varieties of the plants, one of which is probably right for you.
Growing Echeveria
These easy little succulents produce offsets or baby plants nestled against the mother rosette. These are easy to separate and grow. Just pull the little rosette away and replant in a cactus mixture or homemade blend of equal parts sand, topsoil and compost. You can also start new plants from leaf cuttings. Simply lay the leaf on the surface of the soil. It will root within a few weeks and soon a small rosette will grow next to the rooted leaf. The leaf will dry up and crumble off of the new plant.
Care Instructions for Echeveria
The most important part of good Echeveria care is watering. The biggest issue with the succulents is overwatering. Provide moderate amounts of water in the hot, dry season. Let the soil dry out completely before you irrigate again. Potted plants should not be left in a wet saucer. Soft rots and root rot issues occur when the plant is too wet. The only other issue of concern is the mealybug. Their feeding behavior can seriously minimize the plants vigor. Situate the plants in full sun and mulch around them with gravel or sand to help prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Protect the plants from freezing temperatures and store potted plants indoors in winter. The plants do not need pruning, but you may pinch off damaged or errant growth as needed.
How to Use Echeveria
The sheer variety of these plants and other succulents means they lend themselves well to group displays. Potted displays with several varieties or different types of succulents and cacti make attractive additions to the home interior or exterior. Mix and match colors and sizes for unique settings. Put the larger varieties in the center and the trailing or shorter types at the edges. Continue general care instructions for Echeveria, which will also work for most other types of succulents.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Hybridization has given us a host of beautiful and unusual plants to choose from when decorating our homes. The cactus family is a perfect example of the spectrum of plants available. The holiday plants such as the Christmas and Easter cactus, are the hybrids of the Brazilian forest cactus. These segmented plants bloom at certain times of the year, which gives them the holiday designations.
What is the Difference Between a Christmas Cactus and an Easter Cactus?
The Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are members of the Schlumbergera family, while the Easter cactus is a Rhipsalidopsis. The former hails from Brazilian rainforests while the latter is from drier forests. Christmas cactus blooms around the winter holidays. The Easter cactus plant blooms late winter to early spring. Both types have flattened stems, called segments, which are lightly serrated on the edges.
The segments are actually the leaves of the plant. About Easter Cactus Plant
The Easter cactus plant (Rhipsalidopsis gaertnerii) comes in a variety of bloom colors. Usually they are in bloom at the time of purchase and are common holiday gifts. Flower tones range from white to red, orange, peach, lavender and pink. Even following its bloom, the plant has an interesting appeal in its unusual shape. The segments are added onto by new growth, creating a rickety stacked appearance. The plant doesn’t have the same spines as a dessert cactus but a more undulating form with softer pointed nodes on the edges of the leaves. Getting an Easter cactus to bloom the next year requires a special set of conditions which amount to a form of neglect.
How to Care for Easter Cactus
These plants perform best in bright light, but not direct sunlight. Unlike dessert cacti, these plants need cooler temperatures, even during the day, and will bloom for months in nighttime temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees F. (13-16 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and allow it to dry out before watering again. Good Easter cactus care means repotting the plant every two years in spring. The plants enjoy being pot bound, but give it new soil and return the plant to the same pot. Fertilize monthly after the bloom period with a 10-10-10 or food with a low nitrogen count. Provide some humidity if your home is dry. Place the plant on a saucer filled with pebbles and a little water. The evaporation will moisten the air around the plant. Getting an Easter Cactus to Bloom
If you followed your Easter cactus care faithfully, you should have a healthy green cactus. These delightful plants actually need cool temperatures and long nights to set buds. To accomplish flowers, you must be a little rude to them. First stop feeding them. Then move the plant where it has 12 to 14 hours of darkness. Best bud set occurs when temperatures are 50 F, (10 C.). Water sparingly from October to November. By December, you can move the plant somewhere warmer with a 60 to 65 degree range (16-18 C.). The plant will flower in February to March.
What is the Difference Between a Christmas Cactus and an Easter Cactus?
The Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are members of the Schlumbergera family, while the Easter cactus is a Rhipsalidopsis. The former hails from Brazilian rainforests while the latter is from drier forests. Christmas cactus blooms around the winter holidays. The Easter cactus plant blooms late winter to early spring. Both types have flattened stems, called segments, which are lightly serrated on the edges.
The segments are actually the leaves of the plant. About Easter Cactus Plant
The Easter cactus plant (Rhipsalidopsis gaertnerii) comes in a variety of bloom colors. Usually they are in bloom at the time of purchase and are common holiday gifts. Flower tones range from white to red, orange, peach, lavender and pink. Even following its bloom, the plant has an interesting appeal in its unusual shape. The segments are added onto by new growth, creating a rickety stacked appearance. The plant doesn’t have the same spines as a dessert cactus but a more undulating form with softer pointed nodes on the edges of the leaves. Getting an Easter cactus to bloom the next year requires a special set of conditions which amount to a form of neglect.
How to Care for Easter Cactus
These plants perform best in bright light, but not direct sunlight. Unlike dessert cacti, these plants need cooler temperatures, even during the day, and will bloom for months in nighttime temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees F. (13-16 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and allow it to dry out before watering again. Good Easter cactus care means repotting the plant every two years in spring. The plants enjoy being pot bound, but give it new soil and return the plant to the same pot. Fertilize monthly after the bloom period with a 10-10-10 or food with a low nitrogen count. Provide some humidity if your home is dry. Place the plant on a saucer filled with pebbles and a little water. The evaporation will moisten the air around the plant. Getting an Easter Cactus to Bloom
If you followed your Easter cactus care faithfully, you should have a healthy green cactus. These delightful plants actually need cool temperatures and long nights to set buds. To accomplish flowers, you must be a little rude to them. First stop feeding them. Then move the plant where it has 12 to 14 hours of darkness. Best bud set occurs when temperatures are 50 F, (10 C.). Water sparingly from October to November. By December, you can move the plant somewhere warmer with a 60 to 65 degree range (16-18 C.). The plant will flower in February to March.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Collectors of succulents will be excited about Crassula pagoda plants. For sheer architectural interest, this unique plant evokes images of a trip to Shanghai where religious temples reflect the unimaginable forms of stacked architecture and astounding building prowess. Red Pagoda Crassula is an easy-to-grow plant that will add punch to any succulent display or as a stand-alone specimen. Here are a few tips on how to grow Red Pagoda and harness the impact of its structure and colorful foliage.
Red Pagoda Crassula
Succulents offer a wide range of form to suit any discernible gardener. The Crassula genus has over 150 different species, each more surprising than the last. The fairly common jade plant is in the genus. Crassula pagoda plants have an even more diverse “wow” factor. The stacked triangular foliage edged with red and fine prickly spines are eye candy for the succulent enthusiast. Growing Crassula Red Pagoda is a must for the gardener crazy about succulents and collecting.
Red Pagoda (Crassula corymbulosa) grows spirally arranged, thick fleshy leaves bordered with bright pink, red or sometimes orange. Once you get over the color, the geometric arrangement of the leaves will astound and amaze. The effect of the layered leaves is hard to describe without invoking artistic expression. Each new rosette of leaves grows on top of an older rosette. The new leaves are mostly green and small but they get larger and larger with brighter colors as you view down the plant’s stem. The effect is almost an optical illusion of looking into a deeply hued, ribbed tunnel. The plant is also called shark’s tooth due to the triangular serrated pads.
How to Grow Red Pagoda
Soil, light and air circulation are key needs for growing Crassula Red Pagoda. The stems are initially erect but over time, as new rosettes form, it will begin to trail. This means you can grow the plant in a hanging basket. It is equally at home in a rockery, clay pot or amongst a display of other succulents in the garden. Red Pagoda is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 11 to 12 but it performs well as a houseplant, too. Plants prefer well-drained soil with plenty of grit but can survive in amended clay soil. Like most succulents, Red Pagoda is easy to grow from cuttings. Allow the cutting to callus for a few days and insert into a soilless medium. In a month or so, the plant will root and can be transplanted to a display container or the garden.
Caring for Crassula Succulents
Red Pagoda gets its deepest, most vibrant color in winter in a bright location. Plants located in sun develop hues that are rich and jewel-like. The plant has low water needs but it is best to follow a regular schedule of watering in the first year to force a vigorous root system. Red Pagoda is both deer and rabbit resistant, thrives in drought conditions for short periods of time, can perform well in either full or partial sun and has low nutrient requirements. About the only thing that will kill the plant is overwatering, which causes root rot, and a few pests such as mealybugs and aphids. Remove the spent leaves to preserve the best appearance. Lazy gardeners will love caring for Crassula succulents due to their unfussy natures. Good care may see you rewarded in summer with lovely white flowers that are attractive to bees. Divide the plants every 2 or 3 years and share the gift of this unique plant.
Red Pagoda Crassula
Succulents offer a wide range of form to suit any discernible gardener. The Crassula genus has over 150 different species, each more surprising than the last. The fairly common jade plant is in the genus. Crassula pagoda plants have an even more diverse “wow” factor. The stacked triangular foliage edged with red and fine prickly spines are eye candy for the succulent enthusiast. Growing Crassula Red Pagoda is a must for the gardener crazy about succulents and collecting.
Red Pagoda (Crassula corymbulosa) grows spirally arranged, thick fleshy leaves bordered with bright pink, red or sometimes orange. Once you get over the color, the geometric arrangement of the leaves will astound and amaze. The effect of the layered leaves is hard to describe without invoking artistic expression. Each new rosette of leaves grows on top of an older rosette. The new leaves are mostly green and small but they get larger and larger with brighter colors as you view down the plant’s stem. The effect is almost an optical illusion of looking into a deeply hued, ribbed tunnel. The plant is also called shark’s tooth due to the triangular serrated pads.
How to Grow Red Pagoda
Soil, light and air circulation are key needs for growing Crassula Red Pagoda. The stems are initially erect but over time, as new rosettes form, it will begin to trail. This means you can grow the plant in a hanging basket. It is equally at home in a rockery, clay pot or amongst a display of other succulents in the garden. Red Pagoda is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 11 to 12 but it performs well as a houseplant, too. Plants prefer well-drained soil with plenty of grit but can survive in amended clay soil. Like most succulents, Red Pagoda is easy to grow from cuttings. Allow the cutting to callus for a few days and insert into a soilless medium. In a month or so, the plant will root and can be transplanted to a display container or the garden.
Caring for Crassula Succulents
Red Pagoda gets its deepest, most vibrant color in winter in a bright location. Plants located in sun develop hues that are rich and jewel-like. The plant has low water needs but it is best to follow a regular schedule of watering in the first year to force a vigorous root system. Red Pagoda is both deer and rabbit resistant, thrives in drought conditions for short periods of time, can perform well in either full or partial sun and has low nutrient requirements. About the only thing that will kill the plant is overwatering, which causes root rot, and a few pests such as mealybugs and aphids. Remove the spent leaves to preserve the best appearance. Lazy gardeners will love caring for Crassula succulents due to their unfussy natures. Good care may see you rewarded in summer with lovely white flowers that are attractive to bees. Divide the plants every 2 or 3 years and share the gift of this unique plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Because Christmas cactus plants are so easy to care for, it is not uncommon for a Christmas cactus to eventually grow to a monstrous size. While this is lovely to see, it can create problems for a homeowner with limited space. At this time, an owner may wonder if pruning a Christmas cactus is possible and exactly how to trim a Christmas cactus. Christmas cactus pruning is not just for large plants, either. Pruning a Christmas cactus, large or small, will help it to grow fuller and more bushier, which in turn results in more blooms in the future. So whether you are looking to simply reduce the size of your plant or are looking to make yours look even more beautiful, keep reading to learn more about how to trim a Christmas cactus.
When to Prune Christmas Cactus Plants
The best time to prune a Christmas cactus is right after it has bloomed. At this time, the Christmas cactus will be entering a growth period and will start to put out new leaves. Pruning a Christmas cactus right after it blooms will force it to branch out, which means the plant will grow more of its distinctive stems. If you are not able to do your Christmas cactus pruning right after it blooms, you can prune the plant any time from after it blooms until late spring without doing harm to the Christmas cactus plant.
How to Trim a Christmas Cactus
Because of the unique stems, pruning a Christmas cactus is perhaps one of the easiest pruning jobs there is. All you need to do to prune a Christmas cactus is give the stems a quick twist between one of the segments. If this seems a bit harsh on your plant, you can also use a sharp knife or scissors to remove the segments. If you are pruning a Christmas cactus to reduce its size, you can remove up to one-third of the plant per year. If you are trimming Christmas cactus plants to make them grow in more fully, you only need to trim the end one to two segments from the stems. The really fun thing about trimming a Christmas cactus is that you can easily root the Christmas cactus cuttings and give the new plants to friends and family.
When to Prune Christmas Cactus Plants
The best time to prune a Christmas cactus is right after it has bloomed. At this time, the Christmas cactus will be entering a growth period and will start to put out new leaves. Pruning a Christmas cactus right after it blooms will force it to branch out, which means the plant will grow more of its distinctive stems. If you are not able to do your Christmas cactus pruning right after it blooms, you can prune the plant any time from after it blooms until late spring without doing harm to the Christmas cactus plant.
How to Trim a Christmas Cactus
Because of the unique stems, pruning a Christmas cactus is perhaps one of the easiest pruning jobs there is. All you need to do to prune a Christmas cactus is give the stems a quick twist between one of the segments. If this seems a bit harsh on your plant, you can also use a sharp knife or scissors to remove the segments. If you are pruning a Christmas cactus to reduce its size, you can remove up to one-third of the plant per year. If you are trimming Christmas cactus plants to make them grow in more fully, you only need to trim the end one to two segments from the stems. The really fun thing about trimming a Christmas cactus is that you can easily root the Christmas cactus cuttings and give the new plants to friends and family.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
When you think of cactus, you probably envision a desert with heat wavering vistas and blazing sun. You aren’t too far off the mark with most cacti but the holiday cacti actually flower better in slightly cooler temperatures. They are tropical plants that need slightly cooler temperature to set buds but that doesn’t mean that Christmas cactus cold tolerance is high. Christmas cactus cold damage is common in cold drafty homes.
Christmas Cactus Cold Hardiness
Holiday cacti are popular houseplants that bloom around the holiday in their name. Christmas cacti tend to flower around the winter months and produce bright bountiful pink blooms. As exterior plants, they are only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 11. How cold can Christmas cactus get? Cold hardiness in Christmas cactus is greater than some cacti, but they are tropical. They can’t tolerate frost but they need cold temperatures to force blooms. As a tropical plant, Christmas cacti like warm, balmy temperatures; moderate to low moisture levels; and bright sun. It likes to be warm but keep the plant away from extremes such as drafts, heaters and fireplaces. Perfect nighttime temperatures range from 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit (15-18 C.). To force bloom, place the cactus in a cooler area in October where temperatures are about 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Once the plants are in bloom, avoid sudden temperature fluctuations which can make Christmas cacti lose their flowers. In summer, it is completely fine to take the plant outdoors, somewhere with dappled light initially and shelter from any wind. If you leave it outside too far into fall, you can expect Christmas cactus cold damage.
How Cold Can Christmas Cactus Get?
To answer the question, we need to consider the growing zone. The United States Department of Agriculture provides hardiness zones for plants. Each hardiness zone illustrates the average annual minimum winter temperature. Each zone is 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12 C). Zone 9 is 20-25 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 to -3 C) and zone 11 is 45 to 50 (7-10 C). So as you can see, the cold hardiness in Christmas cactus is fairly broad. That being said, frost or snow is a definite no-no for the plant. If it is exposed to freezing temperatures for more than a quick nip, you can expect the pads will be damaged.
Treating Christmas Cactus Exposed to Cold
If the cactus is out too long in freezing temperatures, the water stored in its tissues will freeze and expand. This damages the cells inside the pads and stems. Once the water thaws, the tissue contracts but it is damaged and doesn’t hold its shape. This results in limp stems, and eventually dropped leaves and rotten spots. Treating Christmas cactus exposed to cold requires patience. First, remove any tissue that appears to be badly damaged or rotten. Keep the plant lightly watered, but not soggy, and place it in an area around 60 degrees F. (15 C), which is moderately warm but not hot. If the plant survives six months, give it some houseplant fertilizer that has been diluted by half once per month during its growth months. If you put it outside the next summer, just remember Christmas cactus cold tolerance doesn’t extend to freezes, so get it inside when those conditions threaten.
Christmas Cactus Cold Hardiness
Holiday cacti are popular houseplants that bloom around the holiday in their name. Christmas cacti tend to flower around the winter months and produce bright bountiful pink blooms. As exterior plants, they are only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 11. How cold can Christmas cactus get? Cold hardiness in Christmas cactus is greater than some cacti, but they are tropical. They can’t tolerate frost but they need cold temperatures to force blooms. As a tropical plant, Christmas cacti like warm, balmy temperatures; moderate to low moisture levels; and bright sun. It likes to be warm but keep the plant away from extremes such as drafts, heaters and fireplaces. Perfect nighttime temperatures range from 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit (15-18 C.). To force bloom, place the cactus in a cooler area in October where temperatures are about 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Once the plants are in bloom, avoid sudden temperature fluctuations which can make Christmas cacti lose their flowers. In summer, it is completely fine to take the plant outdoors, somewhere with dappled light initially and shelter from any wind. If you leave it outside too far into fall, you can expect Christmas cactus cold damage.
How Cold Can Christmas Cactus Get?
To answer the question, we need to consider the growing zone. The United States Department of Agriculture provides hardiness zones for plants. Each hardiness zone illustrates the average annual minimum winter temperature. Each zone is 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12 C). Zone 9 is 20-25 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 to -3 C) and zone 11 is 45 to 50 (7-10 C). So as you can see, the cold hardiness in Christmas cactus is fairly broad. That being said, frost or snow is a definite no-no for the plant. If it is exposed to freezing temperatures for more than a quick nip, you can expect the pads will be damaged.
Treating Christmas Cactus Exposed to Cold
If the cactus is out too long in freezing temperatures, the water stored in its tissues will freeze and expand. This damages the cells inside the pads and stems. Once the water thaws, the tissue contracts but it is damaged and doesn’t hold its shape. This results in limp stems, and eventually dropped leaves and rotten spots. Treating Christmas cactus exposed to cold requires patience. First, remove any tissue that appears to be badly damaged or rotten. Keep the plant lightly watered, but not soggy, and place it in an area around 60 degrees F. (15 C), which is moderately warm but not hot. If the plant survives six months, give it some houseplant fertilizer that has been diluted by half once per month during its growth months. If you put it outside the next summer, just remember Christmas cactus cold tolerance doesn’t extend to freezes, so get it inside when those conditions threaten.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Unlike typical desert cacti, Christmas cactus is native to the tropical rain forest. Although the climate is damp for much of the year, the roots dry quickly because the plants grow not in soil, but in decayed leaves in the branches of trees. Christmas cactus problems are usually caused by improper watering or poor drainage.
Christmas Cactus Fungal Issues
Rots, including basal stem rot and root rot, are the most common problems affecting Christmas cactus. Stem rot – Basal stem rot, which generally develops in cool, damp soil, is easily recognized by the formation of a brown, water-soaked spot at the base of the stem. The lesions eventually travel up the stem of the plant. Unfortunately, basal stem rot is usually deadly because treatment involves cutting the diseased area from the base of the plant, which removes the supportive structure. The best recourse is to start a new plant with a healthy leaf. Root rot – Similarly, plants with root rot are difficult to save. The disease, which causes the plants to wilt and eventually die, is identified by a wilted appearance and soggy, black or reddish brown roots. You may be able to save the plant if you catch the disease early. Remove the cactus from its pot. Rinse the roots to remove the fungus and trim rotten areas. Repot the plant in a pot filled with a potting mix formulated for cacti and succulents. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Fungicides are often ineffective because specific pathogens are difficult to identify, and each pathogen requires a different fungicide. To prevent rot, water the plant thoroughly, but only when the potting soil feels slightly dry. Let the pot drain and don’t allow the plant to stand in water. Water sparingly during the winter, but never let the potting mix become bone dry.
Other Diseases of Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus diseases also include botrytis blight and impatiens necrotic spot virus. Botrytis blight – Suspect botrytis blight, also known as grey mold, if the blooms or stem are covered with silvery gray fungus. If you catch the disease early, removal of infected plant parts may save the plant. Improve ventilation and reduce humidity to prevent future outbreaks. Necrotic spot virus – Plants with impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) display spotted, yellow or wilted leaves and stems. Use appropriate insect control, as the disease is usually transmitted by thrips. You may be able to save diseased plants by moving them into a clean container filled with fresh, pathogen-free potting mix.
Christmas Cactus Fungal Issues
Rots, including basal stem rot and root rot, are the most common problems affecting Christmas cactus. Stem rot – Basal stem rot, which generally develops in cool, damp soil, is easily recognized by the formation of a brown, water-soaked spot at the base of the stem. The lesions eventually travel up the stem of the plant. Unfortunately, basal stem rot is usually deadly because treatment involves cutting the diseased area from the base of the plant, which removes the supportive structure. The best recourse is to start a new plant with a healthy leaf. Root rot – Similarly, plants with root rot are difficult to save. The disease, which causes the plants to wilt and eventually die, is identified by a wilted appearance and soggy, black or reddish brown roots. You may be able to save the plant if you catch the disease early. Remove the cactus from its pot. Rinse the roots to remove the fungus and trim rotten areas. Repot the plant in a pot filled with a potting mix formulated for cacti and succulents. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Fungicides are often ineffective because specific pathogens are difficult to identify, and each pathogen requires a different fungicide. To prevent rot, water the plant thoroughly, but only when the potting soil feels slightly dry. Let the pot drain and don’t allow the plant to stand in water. Water sparingly during the winter, but never let the potting mix become bone dry.
Other Diseases of Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus diseases also include botrytis blight and impatiens necrotic spot virus. Botrytis blight – Suspect botrytis blight, also known as grey mold, if the blooms or stem are covered with silvery gray fungus. If you catch the disease early, removal of infected plant parts may save the plant. Improve ventilation and reduce humidity to prevent future outbreaks. Necrotic spot virus – Plants with impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) display spotted, yellow or wilted leaves and stems. Use appropriate insect control, as the disease is usually transmitted by thrips. You may be able to save diseased plants by moving them into a clean container filled with fresh, pathogen-free potting mix.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Christmas cactus are relatively trouble-free succulent plants, but if your Christmas cactus leaves are red or purple instead of green, or if you notice Christmas cactus leaves turning purple on edges, your plant is telling you that something isn’t quite right. Read on to learn about possible causes and solutions for reddish-purple Christmas cactus leaves.
Why Do Christmas Cactus Leaves Turn Purple?
Oftentimes, a purplish tint to your Christmas cactus leaves is normal. That said, if it’s noticeably throughout the leaves, it may signal an issue with your plant. Below are the most common reasons for leaves becoming red or purple on Christmas cacti:
Nutritional issues – If you don’t fertilize your Christmas cactus regularly, the plant may be lacking necessary nutrients. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn with a general purpose fertilizer for indoor plants. Additionally, because Christmas cacti require more magnesium than most plants, it normally helps to provide a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in one gallon of water.
Apply the mixture once every month throughout spring and summer, but don’t use the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Crowded roots – If your Christmas cactus is rootbound, it may not be absorbing nutrients effectively. This is one possible reason for reddish-purple Christmas cactus leaves. Keep in mind, however, that Christmas cactus thrives with crowded roots, so don’t repot unless your plant has been in the same container for at least two or three years. If you determine that the plant is rootbound, repotting Christmas cactus is best done in spring. Move the plant to a container filled with a well-drained potting mix such as regular potting soil mixed with perlite or sand. The pot should be just one size larger. Location – Christmas cactus requires bright light during fall and winter, but too much direct light during the summer months may be the reason for Christmas cactus leaves turning purple on edges. Moving the plant to a more appropriate location may prevent sunburn and solve the problem. Be sure the location is away from open doors and drafty windows. Similarly, avoid hot, dry areas such as near a fireplace or heating vent.
Why Do Christmas Cactus Leaves Turn Purple?
Oftentimes, a purplish tint to your Christmas cactus leaves is normal. That said, if it’s noticeably throughout the leaves, it may signal an issue with your plant. Below are the most common reasons for leaves becoming red or purple on Christmas cacti:
Nutritional issues – If you don’t fertilize your Christmas cactus regularly, the plant may be lacking necessary nutrients. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn with a general purpose fertilizer for indoor plants. Additionally, because Christmas cacti require more magnesium than most plants, it normally helps to provide a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in one gallon of water.
Apply the mixture once every month throughout spring and summer, but don’t use the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Crowded roots – If your Christmas cactus is rootbound, it may not be absorbing nutrients effectively. This is one possible reason for reddish-purple Christmas cactus leaves. Keep in mind, however, that Christmas cactus thrives with crowded roots, so don’t repot unless your plant has been in the same container for at least two or three years. If you determine that the plant is rootbound, repotting Christmas cactus is best done in spring. Move the plant to a container filled with a well-drained potting mix such as regular potting soil mixed with perlite or sand. The pot should be just one size larger. Location – Christmas cactus requires bright light during fall and winter, but too much direct light during the summer months may be the reason for Christmas cactus leaves turning purple on edges. Moving the plant to a more appropriate location may prevent sunburn and solve the problem. Be sure the location is away from open doors and drafty windows. Similarly, avoid hot, dry areas such as near a fireplace or heating vent.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
If you have been lucky, you might have received a Christmas cactus as a gift around the winter holidays. There are a couple of varieties of Schlumbergeria blooming cacti that tend to come into flower during certain holidays. These popular plants, which include Easter and Thanksgiving cacti, often come from the nursery bursting with blooms, but getting them to flower the next year can be tricky. This is where the importance of Christmas cactus feeding comes into play. Fertilizing Christmas cactus at just the right time can help ensure your plant is filled with brightly colored tubular blooms.
Christmas Cactus Fertilizer Requirements
Christmas cacti produce trailing jointed stems and wonderful flowers. These plants are epiphytes native to Brazil and make perfect houseplants. For the most part, the cacti are easy to care for and thrive in indirect, bright light, well-draining soil and average moisture. Christmas cactus feeding takes place monthly during the growing season, generally April through October. This will keep your plants in tip-top condition to form buds and eventually that fully bloomed look in time for Christmas.
If you don’t want to keep your cacti gift, you don’t necessarily need to fertilize it. Eventually, the soil will release all it has to offer and the plant will slowly starve to death. New soil and the addition of houseplant food will perk up any lethargic cactus, but timing is essential. Christmas cactus set buds in fall during cooler days with shorter daylight hours. They need 12 hours of darkness to trick the plant into pushing out buds. Fertilizing Christmas cactus during the spring and summer months allows the plant to produce healthy growth to support the flowers. The plant also stores energy to fuel the production of buds. Once autumn arrives, a punishing routine of darker periods, cooler temperatures, reduced water and no additional food, drive the plant to form brilliant hot pink to red flowers.
How to Feed a Christmas Cactus
A bloom formula houseplant fertilizer or a half strength water soluble formula, such as 20-20-20 or 20-10-20, makes an ideal fertilizer for Christmas cactus. Feed monthly during regular watering from late winter to late summer. Alternately, you can choose a time release balanced plant food or one just slightly higher in phosphorus once per month in mid to late summer to enhance flowering. On alternate weeks, fertilize monthly with one teaspoon per gallon water of Epsom salts. This routine will fulfill all the Christmas cactus fertilizer requirements, including the high magnesium needs of this epiphyte. Stop fertilizing in late summer or flower production may suffer. There is no need to fertilize in winter, as the plant is not actively growing. Follow the application rates carefully on any formula to reduce the chance of salt build up in soil. If you are concerned about heavy salts, set the plant in the shower and drench the soil to release any stored salt. Allow the pot to drain freely and the planting medium to dry out before watering anew.
General Care for Christmas Cactus
Using a fertilizer for Christmas cactus is only part of the care ritual. These plants rarely need repotting since they like a crowded environment, but every few years it is necessary to replace the soil. A mixture of half potting soil and half sand or perlite is adequate. Prevent the bottom of the pot from standing in water or root rot may occur. Pinch off the ends of stems after blooming to encourage branching. You can actually root the cuttings after allowing the edge to callus in a sand/soil mixture or pure vermiculite. Move plants outdoors in summer if you wish, but avoid harsh sunlight which can burn the stems. Watch for mealybugs or scale insects and combat with a good horticultural soap spray. Other than that, Christmas cacti are one of the easiest houseplants to grow with year-end rewards to rival those holiday presents.
Christmas Cactus Fertilizer Requirements
Christmas cacti produce trailing jointed stems and wonderful flowers. These plants are epiphytes native to Brazil and make perfect houseplants. For the most part, the cacti are easy to care for and thrive in indirect, bright light, well-draining soil and average moisture. Christmas cactus feeding takes place monthly during the growing season, generally April through October. This will keep your plants in tip-top condition to form buds and eventually that fully bloomed look in time for Christmas.
If you don’t want to keep your cacti gift, you don’t necessarily need to fertilize it. Eventually, the soil will release all it has to offer and the plant will slowly starve to death. New soil and the addition of houseplant food will perk up any lethargic cactus, but timing is essential. Christmas cactus set buds in fall during cooler days with shorter daylight hours. They need 12 hours of darkness to trick the plant into pushing out buds. Fertilizing Christmas cactus during the spring and summer months allows the plant to produce healthy growth to support the flowers. The plant also stores energy to fuel the production of buds. Once autumn arrives, a punishing routine of darker periods, cooler temperatures, reduced water and no additional food, drive the plant to form brilliant hot pink to red flowers.
How to Feed a Christmas Cactus
A bloom formula houseplant fertilizer or a half strength water soluble formula, such as 20-20-20 or 20-10-20, makes an ideal fertilizer for Christmas cactus. Feed monthly during regular watering from late winter to late summer. Alternately, you can choose a time release balanced plant food or one just slightly higher in phosphorus once per month in mid to late summer to enhance flowering. On alternate weeks, fertilize monthly with one teaspoon per gallon water of Epsom salts. This routine will fulfill all the Christmas cactus fertilizer requirements, including the high magnesium needs of this epiphyte. Stop fertilizing in late summer or flower production may suffer. There is no need to fertilize in winter, as the plant is not actively growing. Follow the application rates carefully on any formula to reduce the chance of salt build up in soil. If you are concerned about heavy salts, set the plant in the shower and drench the soil to release any stored salt. Allow the pot to drain freely and the planting medium to dry out before watering anew.
General Care for Christmas Cactus
Using a fertilizer for Christmas cactus is only part of the care ritual. These plants rarely need repotting since they like a crowded environment, but every few years it is necessary to replace the soil. A mixture of half potting soil and half sand or perlite is adequate. Prevent the bottom of the pot from standing in water or root rot may occur. Pinch off the ends of stems after blooming to encourage branching. You can actually root the cuttings after allowing the edge to callus in a sand/soil mixture or pure vermiculite. Move plants outdoors in summer if you wish, but avoid harsh sunlight which can burn the stems. Watch for mealybugs or scale insects and combat with a good horticultural soap spray. Other than that, Christmas cacti are one of the easiest houseplants to grow with year-end rewards to rival those holiday presents.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
The question, “why is my Christmas cactus dropping buds,” is a common one here at Gardening Know How. Christmas cactus plants are succulents and hail from the tropical forests of Brazil. Most of these are sold straight from greenhouses where they have experienced strictly controlled lighting, moisture and temperature conditions. Just moving these lovely plants into your home can cause bud drop on Christmas cactus, but there may be other factors at work as well. Read on to prevent Christmas cactus buds falling off and preserve the incredible flower display.
Why is My Christmas Cactus Dropping Flower Buds?
Sometimes I feel like the world is conspiring against me and my plants. There are so many factors that can cause them to fall ill or fail to flower or produce fruit. In the case of Christmas cactus bud drop, the causes can range from cultural care, lighting, and even the fickleness of the plant to its situation. These plants need more water then true cactus and require a photoperiod of at least 14 hours of darkness to set buds. Other issues that may result in a Christmas cactus dropping flower buds are incorrect moisture, drafty conditions, hot or cold temperatures, and an excessive number of buds.
Outside of root rot, bud drop on Christmas cactus is the most common problem. It is often caused by a change in environment, as these are sensitive plants brought up in carefully controlled environments. Simply moving your plant to a new location in the home can induce bud drop but new plants are in for a whole set of shocks that may contribute to falling buds. New temperatures, humidity levels, lighting, and care will confuse the plant and cause it to stop production on all those glorious flowers. Mimic the care from a greenhouse as closely as possible. Water evenly but do not allow soil to get soggy. Suspend fertilizing in late summer. Keep temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees F. (15-26 C.). Anything above 90 F. (32 C.) can result in Christmas cactus bud drop. Christmas cactus reside in the deeply vegetated tropical forests of Brazil. The dense tree canopy and other vegetation make a warm, shady womb in which these epiphytic plants develop. They require a period of time without much light to force bud formation. To ensure that there are no Christmas cactus buds falling off and production is dense, provide 14 hours of darkness in September until the end of November, but bright light the rest of the year. These forced “long nights” are naturally experienced by the plant in its native region. During the day, the plant should be placed in bright light for the remaining 10 hours but avoid scorching sun from southern windows. Once buds have set and begun to open, the false lighting regimen can end.
Other Causes of Christmas Cactus Dropping Flower Buds
If photo period and care are all correctly followed, there may be other problems with the plant. Incorrect fertilizer can cause the plant to push out so many blooms that it drops some off to make room for full development of the others. This abortive behavior is common in fruit plants, as well. Keep the cactus away from drafty doors and blowing heaters. These can dry the plant out and cause ambient temperatures surrounding the plant to fluctuate too drastically. The shock of such variant temperatures may cause bud drop. Indoor conditions in winter often reflect dry air, which is a condition Christmas cactus can’t tolerate. They are native to a region with rich, humid air and require some moisture in their atmosphere. This is easy to accomplish by placing a saucer filled with pebbles and water under the plant. Evaporation will moisten the air. Simple changes like these are often the answer to bud drop and can have you on your way to a fully blooming plant just in time for the holidays.
Why is My Christmas Cactus Dropping Flower Buds?
Sometimes I feel like the world is conspiring against me and my plants. There are so many factors that can cause them to fall ill or fail to flower or produce fruit. In the case of Christmas cactus bud drop, the causes can range from cultural care, lighting, and even the fickleness of the plant to its situation. These plants need more water then true cactus and require a photoperiod of at least 14 hours of darkness to set buds. Other issues that may result in a Christmas cactus dropping flower buds are incorrect moisture, drafty conditions, hot or cold temperatures, and an excessive number of buds.
Outside of root rot, bud drop on Christmas cactus is the most common problem. It is often caused by a change in environment, as these are sensitive plants brought up in carefully controlled environments. Simply moving your plant to a new location in the home can induce bud drop but new plants are in for a whole set of shocks that may contribute to falling buds. New temperatures, humidity levels, lighting, and care will confuse the plant and cause it to stop production on all those glorious flowers. Mimic the care from a greenhouse as closely as possible. Water evenly but do not allow soil to get soggy. Suspend fertilizing in late summer. Keep temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees F. (15-26 C.). Anything above 90 F. (32 C.) can result in Christmas cactus bud drop. Christmas cactus reside in the deeply vegetated tropical forests of Brazil. The dense tree canopy and other vegetation make a warm, shady womb in which these epiphytic plants develop. They require a period of time without much light to force bud formation. To ensure that there are no Christmas cactus buds falling off and production is dense, provide 14 hours of darkness in September until the end of November, but bright light the rest of the year. These forced “long nights” are naturally experienced by the plant in its native region. During the day, the plant should be placed in bright light for the remaining 10 hours but avoid scorching sun from southern windows. Once buds have set and begun to open, the false lighting regimen can end.
Other Causes of Christmas Cactus Dropping Flower Buds
If photo period and care are all correctly followed, there may be other problems with the plant. Incorrect fertilizer can cause the plant to push out so many blooms that it drops some off to make room for full development of the others. This abortive behavior is common in fruit plants, as well. Keep the cactus away from drafty doors and blowing heaters. These can dry the plant out and cause ambient temperatures surrounding the plant to fluctuate too drastically. The shock of such variant temperatures may cause bud drop. Indoor conditions in winter often reflect dry air, which is a condition Christmas cactus can’t tolerate. They are native to a region with rich, humid air and require some moisture in their atmosphere. This is easy to accomplish by placing a saucer filled with pebbles and water under the plant. Evaporation will moisten the air. Simple changes like these are often the answer to bud drop and can have you on your way to a fully blooming plant just in time for the holidays.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
While the Christmas cactus may be known under various names (like Thanksgiving cactus or Easter cactus), the scientific name for Christmas cactus, Schlumbergera bridgessii, remains the same – while other plants may differ. This popular, winter-flowering houseplant makes a great addition to nearly any indoor setting. Christmas cactus is not only easy to care for but propagates easily too, making it an exceptional candidate for holiday gift giving. Let’s look at how to how to plant Christmas cactus and care for it.
How to Plant Christmas Cactus
The Christmas cactus is easily propagated by cutting a short Y-shaped segment from the stem tips. Make certain, however, that the cutting is taken from healthy plant foliage only. Plant the segment approximately a quarter of its length deep in slightly sandy soil. Moisten evenly and place the cutting in a well-lit area, staying away from any direct sunlight. To root cuttings for new plants, cut back shoots from the tips, cut at the second joint of each tip. The cutting should show signs of growth within a few weeks, at which time the plant can be transferred to another container, if desired, with a looser potting soil mix of compost, loam and sand.
How to Care for Christmas Cactus
Advice for Christmas cactus care tells us that it performs well under average home conditions with moderate care. The Christmas cactus will adapt to low light conditions, but the plant will produce blooms more readily if exposed to brighter light. That being said, too much direct sunlight can burn its leaves, so keep the Christmas cactus in an appropriate area to avoid this. Christmas cactus moisture is important as well. The plant requires frequent and thorough watering, during its active growth in spring and summer, keeping the soil slightly moist. Allow Christmas cactus moisture levels to drop and dry out some between watering intervals, but never completely, and never let the plant sit in water, as this will lead to root and stem rot. Applying a mild houseplant fertilizer solution every other week is also acceptable.
When considering how to care for Christmas cactus, keep in mind it also prefers temperatures hovering between 60 and 70 degrees F. (15-21 C.) with average to high humidity levels. Placing a tray of pebbles filled with water beneath the Christmas cactus container is a good way to add more humidity to the home. Once the Christmas cactus has ceased all flowering (usually by fall), or about six to eight weeks before you want the plant to rebloom, you should allow the plant to begin its dormancy cycle by cutting back on Christmas cactus moisture and reducing both light and temperature. Simply cut back the watering and make sure the plant receives 12-14 hours of darkness and average temperatures around 50-55 F. (10-12 C.). Also, keep the Christmas cactus away from drafty areas. When you know how to care for Christmas cactus, this plant is not difficult to manage, and when given proper care and placed in a suitable location, the Christmas cactus may even surprise you with additional blooming cycles throughout the year.
How to Plant Christmas Cactus
The Christmas cactus is easily propagated by cutting a short Y-shaped segment from the stem tips. Make certain, however, that the cutting is taken from healthy plant foliage only. Plant the segment approximately a quarter of its length deep in slightly sandy soil. Moisten evenly and place the cutting in a well-lit area, staying away from any direct sunlight. To root cuttings for new plants, cut back shoots from the tips, cut at the second joint of each tip. The cutting should show signs of growth within a few weeks, at which time the plant can be transferred to another container, if desired, with a looser potting soil mix of compost, loam and sand.
How to Care for Christmas Cactus
Advice for Christmas cactus care tells us that it performs well under average home conditions with moderate care. The Christmas cactus will adapt to low light conditions, but the plant will produce blooms more readily if exposed to brighter light. That being said, too much direct sunlight can burn its leaves, so keep the Christmas cactus in an appropriate area to avoid this. Christmas cactus moisture is important as well. The plant requires frequent and thorough watering, during its active growth in spring and summer, keeping the soil slightly moist. Allow Christmas cactus moisture levels to drop and dry out some between watering intervals, but never completely, and never let the plant sit in water, as this will lead to root and stem rot. Applying a mild houseplant fertilizer solution every other week is also acceptable.
When considering how to care for Christmas cactus, keep in mind it also prefers temperatures hovering between 60 and 70 degrees F. (15-21 C.) with average to high humidity levels. Placing a tray of pebbles filled with water beneath the Christmas cactus container is a good way to add more humidity to the home. Once the Christmas cactus has ceased all flowering (usually by fall), or about six to eight weeks before you want the plant to rebloom, you should allow the plant to begin its dormancy cycle by cutting back on Christmas cactus moisture and reducing both light and temperature. Simply cut back the watering and make sure the plant receives 12-14 hours of darkness and average temperatures around 50-55 F. (10-12 C.). Also, keep the Christmas cactus away from drafty areas. When you know how to care for Christmas cactus, this plant is not difficult to manage, and when given proper care and placed in a suitable location, the Christmas cactus may even surprise you with additional blooming cycles throughout the year.
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