文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Fenestraria baby toes really does look a bit like the tiny digits of an infant. The succulent plant is also known as living stones, with larger plants producing small rock-like protuberant leaves. In fact, it shares the same family as Lithops, which is also referred to as living stones. The plant is widely available at nurseries and a live object of artistic interest. Instructions on how to grow a baby toes plant are easy enough for children and young people, who adore the fascinating little plant.
Baby Toes Succulent Description
Baby toes plants (Fenestraria rhopalophylla) are native to subtropical desert zones. They require bright sun and moderate water in well-drained soil with plenty of gritty matter. Mother Nature engineered them to be very tolerant of low nutrient soils with extreme weather conditions. The perennial succulents form columns of leaves that are thick and rise up like small toes with flattened tops. The tops possess a translucent membrane over the top of the leaf. The vertical leaves may be mistaken for stems but are really modified foliage. Baby toes succulent may be mottled, grayish green to fully gray or even brown.
Baby Toes Plant Propagation
Like many succulents, Fenestraria baby toes produces offsets as the clusters of leaves mature and spread. These are easy to divide from the main clump and will readily produce another plant. Baby toes bloom in late summer to autumn with daisy-like flowers in a variety of hues. The seeds from the plant germinate sporadically and grow extremely slowly. Faster baby toes plants are achieved by dividing off the side growth.
How to Grow a Baby Toes
Starting baby toes from seed can be rewarding but you need a few key elements for a successful venture. First, the container should be shallow and well-draining. Make up a growing medium with equal parts coir, potting soil, sand, fine gravel and perlite. Moisten the mixture in the pot lightly and strew the seeds evenly on the surface of the soil. Sprinkle a light dusting of sand over the seeds. They will push the sand out of their way as the seedlings emerge. Cover the pot with clear plastic and place in a low light area until germination. Mist the plants after they emerge and remove the cover for half an hour daily to prevent fungal growth.
Care of Baby Toes
Move pots to a fully sunlit area where temperatures range at least 65 F. (19 C.). As with most succulent plants, the biggest problem is over or under watering. While Baby toes are tolerant of drought conditions, they need moisture to store in their leaves to sustain them during the growing season. Baby toes have few pest or disease problems, but do watch out for rot when plants are over watered or in pots that don’t drain well. Fertilize in early spring with a half dilution of cactus and succulent food. Suspend watering in the dormant season from November to February. Other than that, care of baby toes, is so easy the infant whose toes they resemble could almost grow these great little succulents.
Baby Toes Succulent Description
Baby toes plants (Fenestraria rhopalophylla) are native to subtropical desert zones. They require bright sun and moderate water in well-drained soil with plenty of gritty matter. Mother Nature engineered them to be very tolerant of low nutrient soils with extreme weather conditions. The perennial succulents form columns of leaves that are thick and rise up like small toes with flattened tops. The tops possess a translucent membrane over the top of the leaf. The vertical leaves may be mistaken for stems but are really modified foliage. Baby toes succulent may be mottled, grayish green to fully gray or even brown.
Baby Toes Plant Propagation
Like many succulents, Fenestraria baby toes produces offsets as the clusters of leaves mature and spread. These are easy to divide from the main clump and will readily produce another plant. Baby toes bloom in late summer to autumn with daisy-like flowers in a variety of hues. The seeds from the plant germinate sporadically and grow extremely slowly. Faster baby toes plants are achieved by dividing off the side growth.
How to Grow a Baby Toes
Starting baby toes from seed can be rewarding but you need a few key elements for a successful venture. First, the container should be shallow and well-draining. Make up a growing medium with equal parts coir, potting soil, sand, fine gravel and perlite. Moisten the mixture in the pot lightly and strew the seeds evenly on the surface of the soil. Sprinkle a light dusting of sand over the seeds. They will push the sand out of their way as the seedlings emerge. Cover the pot with clear plastic and place in a low light area until germination. Mist the plants after they emerge and remove the cover for half an hour daily to prevent fungal growth.
Care of Baby Toes
Move pots to a fully sunlit area where temperatures range at least 65 F. (19 C.). As with most succulent plants, the biggest problem is over or under watering. While Baby toes are tolerant of drought conditions, they need moisture to store in their leaves to sustain them during the growing season. Baby toes have few pest or disease problems, but do watch out for rot when plants are over watered or in pots that don’t drain well. Fertilize in early spring with a half dilution of cactus and succulent food. Suspend watering in the dormant season from November to February. Other than that, care of baby toes, is so easy the infant whose toes they resemble could almost grow these great little succulents.
2
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Agave is a long-leaved succulent plant that naturally forms a rosette shape and produces a flower spire of attractive cup shaped blooms. The plant is drought tolerant and perennial, making it ideal for the mature arid garden. Many agave plants are native to North America and are adaptable to colder climates in the Pacific Northwest and even Canada.
Types of Agave
Almost every climate is capable of growing agave as some are hardy down to single digits for short periods of time and with shelter. Agave is in the Agavaceae family of succulents which include dracaena, yucca and ponytail palms.
The century plant (Agave americana) is one of the most notorious landscape agaves. It produces a lovely inflorescence (flower) and then the main plant dies, leaving behind pups or offsets. The American agave or American aloe, as it is also called, has a white stripe running down the center of the leaves. It is a warm season agave only. There are many other types of agave, which makes it easy to find and garden with this stunning plant. Some of these include: Agave parryi Agave ocahui Agave macroacantha Agave gigantensis
Planting Agave
Agave have a large tap root and do not transplant well, so choose an appropriate site when planting agave. The majority of the roots are surface roots and do not require a deep hole if planted when young. Check your soil for drainage, or if planting in heavy clay soils amend the soil with sand or grit. Mix in enough sand to make the soil halfway comprised of grit. Water the plant diligently for the first week and then cut it to half the second week. Taper off even more until you are only watering once every week or two.
How to Grow Agave
Growing agave is easy if you plant the right variety in the right location. Agaves need full sun and gritty soil that percolates easily. They can even do quite well when potted but use an unglazed clay pot that will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Water needs are moderate to light depending upon the heat of the season but the plants should be allowed to dry out before irrigation. In spring they benefit from the application of a granulated time release fertilizer that will provide nutrient needs for the season. Many varieties of agave will die after blooming and then produce pups or offshoots from their base to replace themselves. On varieties where the parent plant doesn’t die after flowering, it is a good idea to get long handled pruners and remove the spent bloom. After establishment, neglect is actually how to grow agave and produce happy plants.
Agave Plant Care in Pots
Agave that are grown in pots require even more grit in the soil and can actually be planted in a cactus mix. The addition of small rocks or pebbles to the soil increases the drainage capabilities of the container. Agave plants in containers will require more water than those in the ground and will need to be re-potted every year or so to replenish soil and root prune the plant. Agave plant care for container grown plants is otherwise the same and it affords you the ability to bring sensitive forms indoors when temperatures plummet.
Types of Agave
Almost every climate is capable of growing agave as some are hardy down to single digits for short periods of time and with shelter. Agave is in the Agavaceae family of succulents which include dracaena, yucca and ponytail palms.
The century plant (Agave americana) is one of the most notorious landscape agaves. It produces a lovely inflorescence (flower) and then the main plant dies, leaving behind pups or offsets. The American agave or American aloe, as it is also called, has a white stripe running down the center of the leaves. It is a warm season agave only. There are many other types of agave, which makes it easy to find and garden with this stunning plant. Some of these include: Agave parryi Agave ocahui Agave macroacantha Agave gigantensis
Planting Agave
Agave have a large tap root and do not transplant well, so choose an appropriate site when planting agave. The majority of the roots are surface roots and do not require a deep hole if planted when young. Check your soil for drainage, or if planting in heavy clay soils amend the soil with sand or grit. Mix in enough sand to make the soil halfway comprised of grit. Water the plant diligently for the first week and then cut it to half the second week. Taper off even more until you are only watering once every week or two.
How to Grow Agave
Growing agave is easy if you plant the right variety in the right location. Agaves need full sun and gritty soil that percolates easily. They can even do quite well when potted but use an unglazed clay pot that will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Water needs are moderate to light depending upon the heat of the season but the plants should be allowed to dry out before irrigation. In spring they benefit from the application of a granulated time release fertilizer that will provide nutrient needs for the season. Many varieties of agave will die after blooming and then produce pups or offshoots from their base to replace themselves. On varieties where the parent plant doesn’t die after flowering, it is a good idea to get long handled pruners and remove the spent bloom. After establishment, neglect is actually how to grow agave and produce happy plants.
Agave Plant Care in Pots
Agave that are grown in pots require even more grit in the soil and can actually be planted in a cactus mix. The addition of small rocks or pebbles to the soil increases the drainage capabilities of the container. Agave plants in containers will require more water than those in the ground and will need to be re-potted every year or so to replenish soil and root prune the plant. Agave plant care for container grown plants is otherwise the same and it affords you the ability to bring sensitive forms indoors when temperatures plummet.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Succulent and southern gardeners will recognize the damage of the agave snout weevil. What is the agave snout weevil? This pest is a double edged sword, doing damage to agave and other plants in both its beetle and larval form. Damage occurs quickly, followed by death because the bite of the weevil deposits bacteria that literally rot the agave. As the tissues soften and decay, the parent and its progeny are merrily munching away on your plant. Snout weevil control is essential in southwestern areas, especially where agave is grown to make tequila. A population of agave snout weevils can decimate the agave crop and then what will we put in margaritas?
What is the Agave Snout Weevil?
The weevil is a form of beetle and grows approximately an inch long. It is a black insect with the scientific name Scyphophorus acupuntatus. The insects usually choose unhealthy or old agaves to deposit their eggs. Once an agave has bloomed, it is at the end of its life cycle and these plants are especially prone to agave snout weevil infestations. The bite of the beetle injects bacteria which cause the plant tissues to soften and liquefy. This makes it easier for the larvae and parent to eat the tissues, but it will eventually cause the collapse of even the most might of agave. Snout weevil damage is extensive and soon leads to death of the plant.
Snout Weevil Damage
The agave is a succulent plant also known as the Century plant. This is due to the bloom habit of the plant. It blooms only once in its life and then dies, and it can take years for the plant to produce that one flower. The adult weevil bites the heart of the agave and lays its eggs there. When the larvae hatch, they spread bacteria and do physical damage as they chew further into the core of the plant. The larvae are the same ones you find in a tequila bottle and they busily chew until they have disconnected the interior tissue that connected the leaves to the crown. One day it will look fine, the next day the plant is wilted and the stiff rapier sharp leaves are flat to the ground. The foliage will pull easily out of the crown and the center of the rosette is mushy and foul smelling. By the time this happens, snout weevil control is pointless for that plant, but if you have other succulents and agave, there are steps you can take to protect them.
Controlling Snout Nosed Weevils
Agave snout weevil treatment is widely available in Arizona, New Mexico and zones where the plants are grow outdoors. The indoor agave gardener may have to look a little harder for products that will work against the weevils. Triazanon is available at most nursery and garden centers. Apply the granular form and dig it into the soil around the agave. When you water, the chemical will slowly release down to the roots of the plant and then into the vascular tissue, protecting it from the pest. Apply this snout weevil control once per month during the growing season. Agave snout weevil treatment with sprays is tricky because the insect is protected by the thick leaves. If your agave has already succumbed, replace it with a resistant variety so you don’t have to again go through the trauma of losing a favorite plant.
What is the Agave Snout Weevil?
The weevil is a form of beetle and grows approximately an inch long. It is a black insect with the scientific name Scyphophorus acupuntatus. The insects usually choose unhealthy or old agaves to deposit their eggs. Once an agave has bloomed, it is at the end of its life cycle and these plants are especially prone to agave snout weevil infestations. The bite of the beetle injects bacteria which cause the plant tissues to soften and liquefy. This makes it easier for the larvae and parent to eat the tissues, but it will eventually cause the collapse of even the most might of agave. Snout weevil damage is extensive and soon leads to death of the plant.
Snout Weevil Damage
The agave is a succulent plant also known as the Century plant. This is due to the bloom habit of the plant. It blooms only once in its life and then dies, and it can take years for the plant to produce that one flower. The adult weevil bites the heart of the agave and lays its eggs there. When the larvae hatch, they spread bacteria and do physical damage as they chew further into the core of the plant. The larvae are the same ones you find in a tequila bottle and they busily chew until they have disconnected the interior tissue that connected the leaves to the crown. One day it will look fine, the next day the plant is wilted and the stiff rapier sharp leaves are flat to the ground. The foliage will pull easily out of the crown and the center of the rosette is mushy and foul smelling. By the time this happens, snout weevil control is pointless for that plant, but if you have other succulents and agave, there are steps you can take to protect them.
Controlling Snout Nosed Weevils
Agave snout weevil treatment is widely available in Arizona, New Mexico and zones where the plants are grow outdoors. The indoor agave gardener may have to look a little harder for products that will work against the weevils. Triazanon is available at most nursery and garden centers. Apply the granular form and dig it into the soil around the agave. When you water, the chemical will slowly release down to the roots of the plant and then into the vascular tissue, protecting it from the pest. Apply this snout weevil control once per month during the growing season. Agave snout weevil treatment with sprays is tricky because the insect is protected by the thick leaves. If your agave has already succumbed, replace it with a resistant variety so you don’t have to again go through the trauma of losing a favorite plant.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Anthracnose of agaves is bad news to be sure. The good news, however, is that although the fungus is unsightly, anthracnose on agave plants isn’t an automatic death sentence. The key is to improve growing conditions, and to treat the plant as soon as possible. Read on to learn how to prevent and control anthracnose of agaves.
What is Agave Anthracnose?
Like other agave fungal diseases, anthracnose of agaves generally occurs when growing conditions are wet and humid. While this may be due to the moods of Mother Nature, including splashing rain, it can also be the result of too much shade or excessive irrigation, especially via overhead sprinklers. The primary sign of anthracnose of agaves include unsightly sunken lesions on the crown and sword-like leaves, often with a visible, reddish-brown spore mass. The disease spores spread from plant to plant via splashing water or wind-blown rain.
Agave Anthracnose Treatment and Prevention
When it comes to anthracnose of agaves, prevention is definitely the best means of control, as fungicides aren’t always effective. Plant agaves in full sunlight, always in well-drained soil. Irrigate the plant using drip irrigation or a soaker hose and avoid overhead sprinklers. Never water overhead if the disease is present. Disinfect garden tools by spraying them with isopropyl rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 10 parts water to one part household bleach. If you’re in the market for new agave plants, look for healthy, disease-resistant cultivars. Allow generous distance between plants to provide adequate air circulation. Part of agave anthracnose treatment involves the immediate removal of growth with active lesions. Destroy infected plant parts carefully to avoid spread of disease. Never compost diseased plant parts. Apply sulfur powder or copper spray weekly, beginning in spring and continuing every couple of weeks throughout the growing season, but not during hot weather. Alternatively, neem oil spray applied every couple of weeks may also be an effective preventive measure. Spray agave plants and the surrounding soil with a broad-spectrum fungicide during wet, humid weather. Products containing Bacillus subtilis are non-toxic to bees and other beneficial insects.
What is Agave Anthracnose?
Like other agave fungal diseases, anthracnose of agaves generally occurs when growing conditions are wet and humid. While this may be due to the moods of Mother Nature, including splashing rain, it can also be the result of too much shade or excessive irrigation, especially via overhead sprinklers. The primary sign of anthracnose of agaves include unsightly sunken lesions on the crown and sword-like leaves, often with a visible, reddish-brown spore mass. The disease spores spread from plant to plant via splashing water or wind-blown rain.
Agave Anthracnose Treatment and Prevention
When it comes to anthracnose of agaves, prevention is definitely the best means of control, as fungicides aren’t always effective. Plant agaves in full sunlight, always in well-drained soil. Irrigate the plant using drip irrigation or a soaker hose and avoid overhead sprinklers. Never water overhead if the disease is present. Disinfect garden tools by spraying them with isopropyl rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 10 parts water to one part household bleach. If you’re in the market for new agave plants, look for healthy, disease-resistant cultivars. Allow generous distance between plants to provide adequate air circulation. Part of agave anthracnose treatment involves the immediate removal of growth with active lesions. Destroy infected plant parts carefully to avoid spread of disease. Never compost diseased plant parts. Apply sulfur powder or copper spray weekly, beginning in spring and continuing every couple of weeks throughout the growing season, but not during hot weather. Alternatively, neem oil spray applied every couple of weeks may also be an effective preventive measure. Spray agave plants and the surrounding soil with a broad-spectrum fungicide during wet, humid weather. Products containing Bacillus subtilis are non-toxic to bees and other beneficial insects.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Root rot is a common disease in plants that is usually caused by poor drainage or improper watering. While more common in potted plants, root rot can also affect outdoor plants. Desert plants like succulents, cacti and agave are especially susceptible to root rot if they are planted in the wrong conditions. Continue reading to learn more about managing root rot in agave.
What is Agave Root Rot?
Agave, also commonly called century plant, is a desert plant native to Mexico. It grows best in dry conditions in full sun. Too much shade or soil that is too moist and drains poorly can cause the plant’s roots to rot. Weather fluctuations, such as unusual cold and rainy periods followed by extreme heat and humidity, can also contribute to root rot.
Agave is hardy in zones 8-10. They have been known to survive temperature down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.) but when exposed to freezing temperatures, the plant will be damaged by frost in just a few hours. Weakened, damaged plant tissues become a perfect host for fungal and bacterial diseases and pests. Then as the earth heats up and humidity fills the air, fungal diseases quickly grow and spread. Because roots are under soil, root rot may go undetected until the whole plant tips over from having no roots to anchor it in place. Bacterial crown and root rot can also be common in agave, caused by the agave snout weevil. The adult agave snout weevil chews on the lower parts of the agave plant, injecting the plant tissues with a bacteria as it chews, which causes them to rot. It then lays its eggs in the rotting tissue and, when hatched, the agave snout weevil larvae feed on the rotting crown and roots.
Alleviating Root Problems of Agave Plants
Agave root rot symptoms may include a general unhealthy appearance of the plant, lesions around the plant crown, tipping over of the plant and roots that are gray/black and slimy. If caught before the entire root system has rotted, you can dig up the plant, remove all soil from the roots and cut off all the rotted parts. Then treat the plant and roots with a fungicide such as thiopanate methyl or neem oil. Move the plant to a different location with full sun and well-draining soil. Pumice can be mixed in with the soil for better drainage. If the roots have all rotted, all you can do is discard the plant and treat the soil with fungicide to prevent the fungal disease from spreading to other plants. To prevent agave root rot in the future, remember agave is a desert plant. It needs full sun and should be planted in an area that tends to be dry, like a rock garden.
What is Agave Root Rot?
Agave, also commonly called century plant, is a desert plant native to Mexico. It grows best in dry conditions in full sun. Too much shade or soil that is too moist and drains poorly can cause the plant’s roots to rot. Weather fluctuations, such as unusual cold and rainy periods followed by extreme heat and humidity, can also contribute to root rot.
Agave is hardy in zones 8-10. They have been known to survive temperature down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.) but when exposed to freezing temperatures, the plant will be damaged by frost in just a few hours. Weakened, damaged plant tissues become a perfect host for fungal and bacterial diseases and pests. Then as the earth heats up and humidity fills the air, fungal diseases quickly grow and spread. Because roots are under soil, root rot may go undetected until the whole plant tips over from having no roots to anchor it in place. Bacterial crown and root rot can also be common in agave, caused by the agave snout weevil. The adult agave snout weevil chews on the lower parts of the agave plant, injecting the plant tissues with a bacteria as it chews, which causes them to rot. It then lays its eggs in the rotting tissue and, when hatched, the agave snout weevil larvae feed on the rotting crown and roots.
Alleviating Root Problems of Agave Plants
Agave root rot symptoms may include a general unhealthy appearance of the plant, lesions around the plant crown, tipping over of the plant and roots that are gray/black and slimy. If caught before the entire root system has rotted, you can dig up the plant, remove all soil from the roots and cut off all the rotted parts. Then treat the plant and roots with a fungicide such as thiopanate methyl or neem oil. Move the plant to a different location with full sun and well-draining soil. Pumice can be mixed in with the soil for better drainage. If the roots have all rotted, all you can do is discard the plant and treat the soil with fungicide to prevent the fungal disease from spreading to other plants. To prevent agave root rot in the future, remember agave is a desert plant. It needs full sun and should be planted in an area that tends to be dry, like a rock garden.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Can agave grow in pots? You bet! With so many varieties of agave available, container grown agave plants are an excellent choice for the gardener with limited space, less than perfect soil conditions, and a lack of abundant sunlight. Since most agaves thrive year round in warmer climates, container plants are also a wonderful choice for gardeners living in climates that experience colder temperatures.Potted agave also provide the flexibility of being mobile. Growing agave plants in pots allows you to move the containers to the location that provides the light, temperature and weather conditions that will help your agave thrive.
How to Grow Agave in Containers
Growing agave plants in pots is fun and rewarding. Any agave can be grown in a container, but the smaller varieties are the most popular. Agave plants love to be root bound, so growing them in pots make these plants excellent candidates for houseplants.
All container grown agave pants need a soil that dries slowly but drains quickly. For outdoor containers, you can make a good soil mixture by mixing equal parts of compost; potting mix or garden soil; and either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. Do not use peat moss, which is undesirable for agave plant growing. For indoor grown agave, make sure you use a sterilized potting mix combined with either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. When you pot your agave, do not bury the plant too deeply in the soil. Make sure the crown of the plant is above the soil line to prevent crown rot, a disease that is detrimental to agave plants.
Potted Agave Care
Agave plants need plenty of sunlight. If you are growing agave plants indoors, choose a bright, sunny window with as much sun possible. A south- or west-facing window works very well. Keep your agave sufficiently watered, and always water completely, making sure the soil is at least half dry before watering again. If you are not sure the soil is dry enough, it is better to wait a day to avoid over-watering your plant. Don’t forget to fertilize. Late spring and summer are the times to feed your container grown agave with a balanced (20-20-20), all-purpose liquid fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
How to Grow Agave in Containers
Growing agave plants in pots is fun and rewarding. Any agave can be grown in a container, but the smaller varieties are the most popular. Agave plants love to be root bound, so growing them in pots make these plants excellent candidates for houseplants.
All container grown agave pants need a soil that dries slowly but drains quickly. For outdoor containers, you can make a good soil mixture by mixing equal parts of compost; potting mix or garden soil; and either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. Do not use peat moss, which is undesirable for agave plant growing. For indoor grown agave, make sure you use a sterilized potting mix combined with either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. When you pot your agave, do not bury the plant too deeply in the soil. Make sure the crown of the plant is above the soil line to prevent crown rot, a disease that is detrimental to agave plants.
Potted Agave Care
Agave plants need plenty of sunlight. If you are growing agave plants indoors, choose a bright, sunny window with as much sun possible. A south- or west-facing window works very well. Keep your agave sufficiently watered, and always water completely, making sure the soil is at least half dry before watering again. If you are not sure the soil is dry enough, it is better to wait a day to avoid over-watering your plant. Don’t forget to fertilize. Late spring and summer are the times to feed your container grown agave with a balanced (20-20-20), all-purpose liquid fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
To brighten your summer garden with vividly colored flowers, include zinnias (Zinnia elegans) when choosing plants. An old-fashioned favorite that's especially easy-to-grow, the zinnia plant produces masses of colorful blossom throughout summer and early fall. Zinnias grow as annuals in all parts of the United States, thriving in any sunny spot when given just basic care and some trimming now and then.
Off to a Good Start
Start zinnias indoors from seeds four to six weeks before your last frost date, or direct-sow zinnia seeds in the garden once temperatures remain above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It's important to give plants enough space to grow without crowding, so thin direct-sown seedlings or space indoor-grown seedlings to allow about 6 inches between shorter varieties and about 12 inches between plants for types that become 2 or more feet tall.
To ensure season-long flowers, sow more seed every two or three weeks until early summer; new plants will produce healthy flower buds when the first plants are beginning to slow their growth and shut down flower production as fall approaches.
Watering and Feeding
Water newly planted zinnias frequently during the first week or two, keeping the soil evenly moist until roots become established. Then water whenever soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. Adding 3 or 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw or shredded bark under each plant's canopy also helps conserve soil moisture while keeping down weeds, but keep the mulch back a few inches from each plant's base to discourage fungal growth.
Fertilizing zinnias helps keep new flower buds coming non-stop through most of the season. Give an initial feeding when seedlings are about 4 inches tall, using a 5-10-5, water-soluble formula. Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 strength, or 1/4 teaspoon per 4 gallons of water, but check your product label for additional directions. Feed again in mid-summer to keep the plants growing and flowering as long as possible.
Trimming and Deadheading
Zinnias are naturally bushy plants, especially when grown in full sun, but pinching out new growth on young plants helps promote extra branching, making plants even fuller and providing more stems that produce blossoms. If you do this when shoots are young and tender, you can pinch out soft new growth with your fingers. To trim back slightly larger stems, use sharp shears, disinfecting the blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant disease.
As flowers fade on zinnia plants, cut these off just ahead of the first set of leaves on the flower stem -- called deadheading. This helps spur production of new flower buds on the remaining stems and also helps keep the plant looking tidy. Because zinnias are annuals, they don't survive winter, but leaving a few spent flowers on the plant allows seeds to mature that can drop to the ground. These may produce new, "volunteer" seedlings the following spring.
Preventing Problems
Zinnias are susceptible to several fungal disorders, including powdery mildew, which makes zinnia leaves look whitish and sprinkled with powder. Eventually, leaves turn brown, then dry up and fall from the plant. Mildew is best prevented by choosing mildew-resistant varieties, spacing plants properly and watering plants with a soaker hose or drip irrigation that helps keep foliage dry.
Zinnias can attract a few pests, including Japanese beetles and some caterpillars that chew foliage, slowing plant growth and potentially stopping flower development. Destroy these pests by handpicking them. You might also see whiteflies, tiny white flying insects, and soft-bodied, yellowish aphids; these insects suck plant juices and slow flowering. Rid the plant of these pests by spraying it until dripping with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
Off to a Good Start
Start zinnias indoors from seeds four to six weeks before your last frost date, or direct-sow zinnia seeds in the garden once temperatures remain above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It's important to give plants enough space to grow without crowding, so thin direct-sown seedlings or space indoor-grown seedlings to allow about 6 inches between shorter varieties and about 12 inches between plants for types that become 2 or more feet tall.
To ensure season-long flowers, sow more seed every two or three weeks until early summer; new plants will produce healthy flower buds when the first plants are beginning to slow their growth and shut down flower production as fall approaches.
Watering and Feeding
Water newly planted zinnias frequently during the first week or two, keeping the soil evenly moist until roots become established. Then water whenever soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. Adding 3 or 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw or shredded bark under each plant's canopy also helps conserve soil moisture while keeping down weeds, but keep the mulch back a few inches from each plant's base to discourage fungal growth.
Fertilizing zinnias helps keep new flower buds coming non-stop through most of the season. Give an initial feeding when seedlings are about 4 inches tall, using a 5-10-5, water-soluble formula. Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 strength, or 1/4 teaspoon per 4 gallons of water, but check your product label for additional directions. Feed again in mid-summer to keep the plants growing and flowering as long as possible.
Trimming and Deadheading
Zinnias are naturally bushy plants, especially when grown in full sun, but pinching out new growth on young plants helps promote extra branching, making plants even fuller and providing more stems that produce blossoms. If you do this when shoots are young and tender, you can pinch out soft new growth with your fingers. To trim back slightly larger stems, use sharp shears, disinfecting the blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant disease.
As flowers fade on zinnia plants, cut these off just ahead of the first set of leaves on the flower stem -- called deadheading. This helps spur production of new flower buds on the remaining stems and also helps keep the plant looking tidy. Because zinnias are annuals, they don't survive winter, but leaving a few spent flowers on the plant allows seeds to mature that can drop to the ground. These may produce new, "volunteer" seedlings the following spring.
Preventing Problems
Zinnias are susceptible to several fungal disorders, including powdery mildew, which makes zinnia leaves look whitish and sprinkled with powder. Eventually, leaves turn brown, then dry up and fall from the plant. Mildew is best prevented by choosing mildew-resistant varieties, spacing plants properly and watering plants with a soaker hose or drip irrigation that helps keep foliage dry.
Zinnias can attract a few pests, including Japanese beetles and some caterpillars that chew foliage, slowing plant growth and potentially stopping flower development. Destroy these pests by handpicking them. You might also see whiteflies, tiny white flying insects, and soft-bodied, yellowish aphids; these insects suck plant juices and slow flowering. Rid the plant of these pests by spraying it until dripping with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
With their showy flowers and low-maintenance needs, bottlebrush trees (Callistemon spp.) are often chosen in warm growing zones for hedges or statement plants. They grow best in full sun and soil with low alkalinity, but other than that aren't very picky about where you plant them.
Soil Preparation
Bottlebrush thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions, except for highly alkaline soil. They will tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but high alkalinity results in chlorosis, which turns the plant's leaves yellow. Soils with a pH higher than 7.5 have moderate or high alkalinity. You should test the soil pH before planting bottlebrush plants.
You can stabilize the pH of some soil types, but there is no way to permanently lower the alkalinity of soils with a high concentration of lime. Test lime content by placing about 1 tablespoon of dry soil in a cup and moistening it with white vinegar. If the soil bubbles, it contains too much lime to amend the soil sufficiently. If it does not bubble, regularly adding organic amendments can decrease the alkalinity enough to grow bottlebrushes.
Amend soils before planting with an organic amendment low in mineral salts, such as plant-based composts and sphagnum peat moss. This will help stabilize the soil pH and improve soil texture, even in soils that do not test as alkaline. Spread a layer of amendment 2 to 3 inches deep over the planting surface, and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you're using organic matter to lower soil pH, apply this same amount each year for the next three years, then apply 1 to 2 inches each year after that.
Planting Tips
Dig a planting hole 1 to 2 inches shallower than the rootball and three times as wide. This prevents trees from settling too deep in the soil after planting and provides loose soil on either side for new roots to grow. Remove the container and set the tree in the hole, then fill in around the plant with the same soil you dug out of the planting hole. When you're done, you want the tree at the same depth it was previously growing or slightly higher than the surrounding soil, with the soil sloped up to meet the top of the rootball.
When digging planting holes for multiple trees, space far enough apart to allow for the tree's mature size. For instance, red bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, and weeping bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis, USDA zones 9b through 11) grows 15 to 20 feet. Spacing them 4 to 9 feet apart gives them room to grow with some overlap. Dwarf bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus 'Little John,' USDA zones 8 through 11) grows only 5 feet wide so you can plant them 2 feet apart.
In their preferred growing zones, bottlebrush can be planted year-round. You'll just have to make sure that you can supply adequate water for the new roots. In Florida, for example, it's easier to plant during the cooler fall, winter and spring than trying to supply enough water to keep the soil moist during hot summers.
After-Planting Care
Right after planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil. If the soil level drops after watering, add more soil and water again. For the first year after planting, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Bottlebrush are native to damp locations and are more likely to establish deep root systems if you give them plenty of water.
After they are well-established, most bottlebrush varieties are drought tolerant and need very little supplemental watering. The exception is weeping bottlebrush, which requires plenty of water to keep the soil moist.
To keep them growing and flowering well, fertilize bottlebrush with a low-phosphorous fertilizer. Phosphorous is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer's N-P-K ratio, so look for fertilizers with a lower number in the middle. For example, apply a dry slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 by scattering 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil surface. Do this twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
Soil Preparation
Bottlebrush thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions, except for highly alkaline soil. They will tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but high alkalinity results in chlorosis, which turns the plant's leaves yellow. Soils with a pH higher than 7.5 have moderate or high alkalinity. You should test the soil pH before planting bottlebrush plants.
You can stabilize the pH of some soil types, but there is no way to permanently lower the alkalinity of soils with a high concentration of lime. Test lime content by placing about 1 tablespoon of dry soil in a cup and moistening it with white vinegar. If the soil bubbles, it contains too much lime to amend the soil sufficiently. If it does not bubble, regularly adding organic amendments can decrease the alkalinity enough to grow bottlebrushes.
Amend soils before planting with an organic amendment low in mineral salts, such as plant-based composts and sphagnum peat moss. This will help stabilize the soil pH and improve soil texture, even in soils that do not test as alkaline. Spread a layer of amendment 2 to 3 inches deep over the planting surface, and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you're using organic matter to lower soil pH, apply this same amount each year for the next three years, then apply 1 to 2 inches each year after that.
Planting Tips
Dig a planting hole 1 to 2 inches shallower than the rootball and three times as wide. This prevents trees from settling too deep in the soil after planting and provides loose soil on either side for new roots to grow. Remove the container and set the tree in the hole, then fill in around the plant with the same soil you dug out of the planting hole. When you're done, you want the tree at the same depth it was previously growing or slightly higher than the surrounding soil, with the soil sloped up to meet the top of the rootball.
When digging planting holes for multiple trees, space far enough apart to allow for the tree's mature size. For instance, red bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, and weeping bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis, USDA zones 9b through 11) grows 15 to 20 feet. Spacing them 4 to 9 feet apart gives them room to grow with some overlap. Dwarf bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus 'Little John,' USDA zones 8 through 11) grows only 5 feet wide so you can plant them 2 feet apart.
In their preferred growing zones, bottlebrush can be planted year-round. You'll just have to make sure that you can supply adequate water for the new roots. In Florida, for example, it's easier to plant during the cooler fall, winter and spring than trying to supply enough water to keep the soil moist during hot summers.
After-Planting Care
Right after planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil. If the soil level drops after watering, add more soil and water again. For the first year after planting, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Bottlebrush are native to damp locations and are more likely to establish deep root systems if you give them plenty of water.
After they are well-established, most bottlebrush varieties are drought tolerant and need very little supplemental watering. The exception is weeping bottlebrush, which requires plenty of water to keep the soil moist.
To keep them growing and flowering well, fertilize bottlebrush with a low-phosphorous fertilizer. Phosphorous is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer's N-P-K ratio, so look for fertilizers with a lower number in the middle. For example, apply a dry slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 by scattering 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil surface. Do this twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
The genus Hibiscus contains perennial and tropical species; the hibiscus trees are typically tropical hibiscuses (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis). These plants add an island feel to any landscape or home. The flowers, which come in an artist's palette of colors, reach up to 6 inches in diameter. The tree form is a common offering at nurseries and plant centers, particularly in mid- to late-spring. Caring for these tropical plants isn't always difficult, but they are picky when it comes to certain requirements.
Keep It Hot
Tropical hibiscus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 and 10, although even these warmer climates can cause trouble. Native to tropical areas of Asia, these showy plants can't handle extreme changes in temperature. For much of the U.S., these plants will thrive during the summer but need to come inside if you want to overwinter them. If 90 degrees Fahrenheit or hotter, move your braided hibiscus tree to a partly shaded spot to protect it from the hot afternoon sun. If temperatures are going to fall below 45 degrees F at night, move the plant to a protected area such as a garage or inside.
Protective Pots
Potted hibiscuses tend to do better than ground-planted hibiscuses, primarily because of their tendency to be picky about moisture, acidity and temperature. Ideally, the pot should have at least four drainage holes. Black plastic pots, common in the nursery industry, can heat up too much. Ceramic or clay, while more expensive, is a better material for your hibiscus. Growers often use a mix of 5 percent perlite, 50 percent peat or coco fiber, and 45 percent composted bark as a growing medium. Repot into the next larger size of pot when the roots begin wrapping around each other. Place a small amount of new potting mix in the bottom of the new pot, disturb the root system of your hibiscus with your fingers, and place it into the pot. The top of the root ball should be approximately 1 inch below the rim of the pot. Fill the pot with fresh potting mix, and work it in gently with your fingers to get it to settle; press the top of the soil firmly around the hibiscus and water thoroughly.
Food and Drink
Applications of a water-soluble fertilizer specifically designed for tropical hibiscus is an ideal fertilizer for these plants. These fertilizers have low phosphorus, and often an N-P-K ratio of 9-3-13 or 10-4-12. Water your potted hibiscus thoroughly and apply 1 teaspoon of granular 10-4-12 hibiscus food for 6- to 12-inch pots, or 2 teaspoons for 14-inch or larger pots; water again after application. Feed once per month or every six weeks. Hibiscus plants can't handle being waterlogged; allow the soil to dry before watering. Water more frequently in hot weather.
In the Ground
Choose a location with well-drained soil if you live in an area that stays warm enough -- USDA zones 9 and 10 -- to plant your hibiscus tree outside in the ground. Clay soils will remain too waterlogged for these tropical plants; sand soils will drain too quickly. When in doubt, plant in a raised bed. Water frequently when temperatures are hot, keeping the root system in moist soil.
Maintaining Your Plant
Pruning hibiscus trees is an option, although not always necessary. A selective prune is often the best option for hibiscus and hibiscus trees. Prune in autumn as you bring your potted plant indoors for the winter. Prune older branches down to the second or third nodes, the small nubs where new branches or leaves come out. As for pests, hibiscus is prone to white flies and mites in particular. To control them, smother with insecticidal soap, an organic-safe insecticide. Spray the leaves thoroughly, including the undersides, and the stems -- anywhere these small pests are present. Repeat every two or three weeks until the infestation is gone.
Keep It Hot
Tropical hibiscus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 and 10, although even these warmer climates can cause trouble. Native to tropical areas of Asia, these showy plants can't handle extreme changes in temperature. For much of the U.S., these plants will thrive during the summer but need to come inside if you want to overwinter them. If 90 degrees Fahrenheit or hotter, move your braided hibiscus tree to a partly shaded spot to protect it from the hot afternoon sun. If temperatures are going to fall below 45 degrees F at night, move the plant to a protected area such as a garage or inside.
Protective Pots
Potted hibiscuses tend to do better than ground-planted hibiscuses, primarily because of their tendency to be picky about moisture, acidity and temperature. Ideally, the pot should have at least four drainage holes. Black plastic pots, common in the nursery industry, can heat up too much. Ceramic or clay, while more expensive, is a better material for your hibiscus. Growers often use a mix of 5 percent perlite, 50 percent peat or coco fiber, and 45 percent composted bark as a growing medium. Repot into the next larger size of pot when the roots begin wrapping around each other. Place a small amount of new potting mix in the bottom of the new pot, disturb the root system of your hibiscus with your fingers, and place it into the pot. The top of the root ball should be approximately 1 inch below the rim of the pot. Fill the pot with fresh potting mix, and work it in gently with your fingers to get it to settle; press the top of the soil firmly around the hibiscus and water thoroughly.
Food and Drink
Applications of a water-soluble fertilizer specifically designed for tropical hibiscus is an ideal fertilizer for these plants. These fertilizers have low phosphorus, and often an N-P-K ratio of 9-3-13 or 10-4-12. Water your potted hibiscus thoroughly and apply 1 teaspoon of granular 10-4-12 hibiscus food for 6- to 12-inch pots, or 2 teaspoons for 14-inch or larger pots; water again after application. Feed once per month or every six weeks. Hibiscus plants can't handle being waterlogged; allow the soil to dry before watering. Water more frequently in hot weather.
In the Ground
Choose a location with well-drained soil if you live in an area that stays warm enough -- USDA zones 9 and 10 -- to plant your hibiscus tree outside in the ground. Clay soils will remain too waterlogged for these tropical plants; sand soils will drain too quickly. When in doubt, plant in a raised bed. Water frequently when temperatures are hot, keeping the root system in moist soil.
Maintaining Your Plant
Pruning hibiscus trees is an option, although not always necessary. A selective prune is often the best option for hibiscus and hibiscus trees. Prune in autumn as you bring your potted plant indoors for the winter. Prune older branches down to the second or third nodes, the small nubs where new branches or leaves come out. As for pests, hibiscus is prone to white flies and mites in particular. To control them, smother with insecticidal soap, an organic-safe insecticide. Spray the leaves thoroughly, including the undersides, and the stems -- anywhere these small pests are present. Repeat every two or three weeks until the infestation is gone.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Whether a garden is drenched in sun or deep in shade, at least one of the more than 1,000 begonia species (Begonia spp.) and thousands of begonia cultivars can lift it from mundane to magical. As subtropical and tropical plants, most begonias survive winters outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. Elsewhere, they can be lifted before the first frost and stored indoors for the winter. Frost isn't their only enemy; the humidity begonias love exposes them to powdery mildew. Treat an infection culturally or organically before resorting to chemical fungicide.
The Fungi
Two powdery mildew fungi (Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium begoniae) infect begonias. Wind or water carry their spores to begonia leaves, but they need the right conditions to germinate.
The chances of infection increase when water vapor -- or humidity -- in the air condenses as temperatures drop and dampens the begonias' leaves. Without any moisture, spores landing on the leaves don't germinate. On slightly damp leaves, they germinate in only one hour.
Standing water on the leaves drown the spores. The threat of infection is highest on begonias growing in shade at temperatures fluctuating between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Cultural Treatments
Water begonias in midmorning by sprinkling them from above. Sprinkling removes spores already on the leaves, and drowns the ones landing before the leaves dry.
To lower the humidity around potted begonias, space their pots at least 1 foot apart for good air circulation.
Prune mildewed leaves at the first sign of infection and dispose of them in sealed plastic bags. Remove them with clean, sharp stem cutters rinsed in rubbing alcohol between cuts and after use.
The Milk-and-Water Treatment
A solution of 1 part skim or raw milk to 9 parts water sprayed on infested plants reduces powdery mildew symptoms up to 90 percent, reports the National Gardening Association.
The catch is that the milk-and-water solution won't work on shade-garden begonias. It needs sunlight to trigger its mildew-killing properties, according to researcher Peter Crisp of Australia's Adelaide University.
Spray begonias in sun until the solution coats all their surfaces. Repeat weekly until mildew-favoring conditions subside.
Neem Oil Treatment
Correctly treating begonias with organic, ready-to-use neem oil spray controls powdery mildew without hurting honeybees or other beneficial insects.
Time the treatment for the the early morning or after dark, when bees aren't pollinating. In calm, dry weather with a temperature below 90 degrees Fahrenheit, water the plants well. Dress in protective clothing, including a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, waterproof gloves, a respiratory mask and safety goggles.
Coat the begonias until they drip, being sure to hit the backs of the leaves. Repeat weekly as long as you see symptoms, and then every other week as long as the weather stays dry and temperatures remain between 60 and 80 degrees F.
The Fungi
Two powdery mildew fungi (Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium begoniae) infect begonias. Wind or water carry their spores to begonia leaves, but they need the right conditions to germinate.
The chances of infection increase when water vapor -- or humidity -- in the air condenses as temperatures drop and dampens the begonias' leaves. Without any moisture, spores landing on the leaves don't germinate. On slightly damp leaves, they germinate in only one hour.
Standing water on the leaves drown the spores. The threat of infection is highest on begonias growing in shade at temperatures fluctuating between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Cultural Treatments
Water begonias in midmorning by sprinkling them from above. Sprinkling removes spores already on the leaves, and drowns the ones landing before the leaves dry.
To lower the humidity around potted begonias, space their pots at least 1 foot apart for good air circulation.
Prune mildewed leaves at the first sign of infection and dispose of them in sealed plastic bags. Remove them with clean, sharp stem cutters rinsed in rubbing alcohol between cuts and after use.
The Milk-and-Water Treatment
A solution of 1 part skim or raw milk to 9 parts water sprayed on infested plants reduces powdery mildew symptoms up to 90 percent, reports the National Gardening Association.
The catch is that the milk-and-water solution won't work on shade-garden begonias. It needs sunlight to trigger its mildew-killing properties, according to researcher Peter Crisp of Australia's Adelaide University.
Spray begonias in sun until the solution coats all their surfaces. Repeat weekly until mildew-favoring conditions subside.
Neem Oil Treatment
Correctly treating begonias with organic, ready-to-use neem oil spray controls powdery mildew without hurting honeybees or other beneficial insects.
Time the treatment for the the early morning or after dark, when bees aren't pollinating. In calm, dry weather with a temperature below 90 degrees Fahrenheit, water the plants well. Dress in protective clothing, including a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, waterproof gloves, a respiratory mask and safety goggles.
Coat the begonias until they drip, being sure to hit the backs of the leaves. Repeat weekly as long as you see symptoms, and then every other week as long as the weather stays dry and temperatures remain between 60 and 80 degrees F.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Astragalus tragacantha ssp. vicentinus - is one of the rare plants to be found in Cape St. Vincent Natural Park (Parque Nacional de Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina) in the Algarve region of Portugal.
Sometimes known as Astragalus massiliensis this plant is recorded from southern France, Northern Spain and other parts of the western Mediterranean region. It is a coastal species and grows in sandy soils among scrub.
Close-up the flower and leaves of the plant reveal that it is a member of the Pea family of plants
At Cape St. Vincent this plant is found along the roadsides towards the lighthouse. It is an uncomfortable candidate for photography as it grows on stony ground among thorny shrubs and plants. It is also becoming harder to find as much of its habitat is being taken over as alternative car parking areas for visitors to this iconic part of Europe. Cape St. Vincent is Europe's most south-westerly point and attracts tourists by the coachload in the summer months.
Astragalus tragacantha flowers in March and early April. It forms low-growing pincushion-shaped plants. The flowers appear white from a distance, but on closer inspection are tinged with purple.
Sometimes known as Astragalus massiliensis this plant is recorded from southern France, Northern Spain and other parts of the western Mediterranean region. It is a coastal species and grows in sandy soils among scrub.
Close-up the flower and leaves of the plant reveal that it is a member of the Pea family of plants
At Cape St. Vincent this plant is found along the roadsides towards the lighthouse. It is an uncomfortable candidate for photography as it grows on stony ground among thorny shrubs and plants. It is also becoming harder to find as much of its habitat is being taken over as alternative car parking areas for visitors to this iconic part of Europe. Cape St. Vincent is Europe's most south-westerly point and attracts tourists by the coachload in the summer months.
Astragalus tragacantha flowers in March and early April. It forms low-growing pincushion-shaped plants. The flowers appear white from a distance, but on closer inspection are tinged with purple.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Aristolochia paucinervis can be found in damp ditches in the western Mediterranean and is not as widespread and common as Aristolochia baetica. It flowers from February through to the end of July.
The plants of the Aristolochiaceae family attract their pollinators (flies) by exuding a strong smell from their flowers which are typically saxaphone-shaped. When the flies crawl down into the flowers, they are trapped by the hairs that surround the 'mouth' and remain, crawling around, inside the flower overnight. By the following morning the hairs have withered and the flies, now covered with pollen, are able to escape and move on to other flowers and so complete the pollination cycle.
The plants of the Aristolochiaceae family attract their pollinators (flies) by exuding a strong smell from their flowers which are typically saxaphone-shaped. When the flies crawl down into the flowers, they are trapped by the hairs that surround the 'mouth' and remain, crawling around, inside the flower overnight. By the following morning the hairs have withered and the flies, now covered with pollen, are able to escape and move on to other flowers and so complete the pollination cycle.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
The Orchidaceae are a diverse and widespread family of flowering plants, with blooms that are often colourful and fragrant, commonly known as the orchid family.
Along with the Asteraceae, they are one of the two largest families of flowering plants. The Orchidaceae have about 28,000 currently accepted species, distributed in about 763 genera.The determination of which family is larger is still under debate, because verified data on the members of such enormous families are continually in flux. Regardless, the number of orchid species nearly equals the number of bony fishes and is more than twice the number of bird species, and about four times the number of mammal species. The family also encompasses about 6–11% of all seed plants.[4] The largest genera are Bulbophyllum (2,000 species), Epidendrum (1,500 species), Dendrobium (1,400 species) and Pleurothallis (1,000 species).
The family also includes Vanilla (the genus of the vanilla plant), Orchis (type genus), and many commonly cultivated plants such as Phalaenopsis and Cattleya. Moreover, since the introduction of tropical species into cultivation in the 19th century, horticulturists have produced more than 100,000 hybrids and cultivars.
Description
Orchids are easily distinguished from other plants, as they share some very evident, shared derived characteristics, or "apomorphies". Among these are: bilateral symmetry of the flower (zygomorphism), many resupinate flowers, a nearly always highly modified petal (labellum), fused stamens and carpels, and extremely small seeds.
Stem and roots
All orchids are perennial herbs that lack any permanent woody structure. They can grow according to two patterns:
Monopodial: The stem grows from a single bud, leaves are added from the apex each year and the stem grows longer accordingly. The stem of orchids with a monopodial growth can reach several metres in length, as in Vanda and Vanilla.
Sympodial: Sympodial orchids have a front (the newest growth) and a back (the oldest growth).The plant produces a series of adjacent shoots which grow to a certain size, bloom and then stop growing and are replaced. Sympodial orchids grow laterally rather than vertically, following the surface of their support. The growth continues by development of new leads, with their own leaves and roots, sprouting from or next to those of the previous year, as in Cattleya. While a new lead is developing, the rhizome may start its growth again from a so-called 'eye', an undeveloped bud, thereby branching. Sympodial orchids may have visible pseudobulbs joined by a rhizome, which creeps along the top or just beneath the soil.
Terrestrial orchids may be rhizomatous or form corms or tubers. The root caps of terrestrial orchids are smooth and white.
Some sympodial terrestrial orchids, such as Orchis and Ophrys, have two subterranean tuberous roots. One is used as a food reserve for wintry periods, and provides for the development of the other one, from which visible growth develops.
In warm and constantly humid climates, many terrestrial orchids do not need pseudobulbs.
Epiphytic orchids, those that grow upon a support, have modified aerial roots that can sometimes be a few meters long. In the older parts of the roots, a modified spongy epidermis, called velamen, has the function to absorb humidity. It is made of dead cells and can have a silvery-grey, white or brown appearance. In some orchids, the velamen includes spongy and fibrous bodies near the passage cells, called tilosomes.
The cells of the root epidermis grow at a right angle to the axis of the root to allow them to get a firm grasp on their support. Nutrients for epiphytic orchids mainly come from mineral dust, organic detritus, animal droppings and other substances collecting among on their supporting surfaces.
The base of the stem of sympodial epiphytes, or in some species essentially the entire stem, may be thickened to form a pseudobulb that contains nutrients and water for drier periods.
The pseudobulb has a smooth surface with lengthwise grooves, and can have different shapes, often conical or oblong. Its size is very variable; in some small species of Bulbophyllum, it is no longer than two millimeters, while in the largest orchid in the world, Grammatophyllum speciosum (giant orchid), it can reach three meters. Some Dendrobium species have long, canelike pseudobulbs with short, rounded leaves over the whole length; some other orchids have hidden or extremely small pseudobulbs, completely included inside the leaves.
With ageing, the pseudobulb sheds its leaves and becomes dormant. At this stage, it is often called a backbulb. Backbulbs still hold nutrition for the plant, but then a pseudobulb usually takes over, exploiting the last reserves accumulated in the backbulb, which eventually dies off, too. A pseudobulb typically lives for about five years. Orchids without noticeable pseudobulbs are also said to have growths, an individual component of a sympodial plant.
Leaves
Like most monocots, orchids generally have simple leaves with parallel veins, although some Vanilloideae have reticulate venation. Leaves may be ovate, lanceolate, or orbiculate, and very variable in size on the individual plant. Their characteristics are often diagnostic. They are normally alternate on the stem, often folded lengthwise along the centre ("plicate"), and have no stipules. Orchid leaves often have siliceous bodies called stegmata in the vascular bundle sheaths (not present in the Orchidoideae) and are fibrous.
The structure of the leaves corresponds to the specific habitat of the plant. Species that typically bask in sunlight, or grow on sites which can be occasionally very dry, have thick, leathery leaves and the laminae are covered by a waxy cuticle to retain their necessary water supply. Shade-loving species, on the other hand, have long, thin leaves.
The leaves of most orchids are perennial, that is, they live for several years, while others, especially those with plicate leaves as in Catasetum, shed them annually and develop new leaves together with new pseudobulbs.
The leaves of some orchids are considered ornamental. The leaves of the Macodes sanderiana, a semiterrestrial or rock-hugging ("lithophyte") orchid, show a sparkling silver and gold veining on a light green background. The cordate leaves of Psychopsis limminghei are light brownish-green with maroon-puce markings, created by flower pigments. The attractive mottle of the leaves of lady's slippers from tropical and subtropical Asia (Paphiopedilum), is caused by uneven distribution of chlorophyll. Also, Phalaenopsis schilleriana is a pastel pink orchid with leaves spotted dark green and light green. The jewel orchid (Ludisia discolor) is grown more for its colorful leaves than its white flowers.
Some orchids, as Dendrophylax lindenii (ghost orchid), Aphyllorchis and Taeniophyllum depend on their green roots for photosynthesis and lack normally developed leaves, as do all of the heterotrophic species.
Orchids of the genus Corallorhiza (coralroot orchids) lack leaves altogether and instead wrap their roots around the roots of mature trees and use specialized fungi to harvest sugars.
Flowers
The Orchidaceae are well known for the many structural variations in their flowers.
Some orchids have single flowers, but most have a racemose inflorescence, sometimes with a large number of flowers. The flowering stem can be basal, that is, produced from the base of the tuber, like in Cymbidium, apical, meaning it grows from the apex of the main stem, like in Cattleya, or axillary, from the leaf axil, as in Vanda`.
As an apomorphy of the clade, orchid flowers are primitively zygomorphic (bilaterally symmetrical), although in some genera like Mormodes, Ludisia, and Macodes, this kind of symmetry may be difficult to notice.
The orchid flower, like most flowers of monocots, has two whorls of sterile elements. The outer whorl has three sepals and the inner whorl has three petals. The sepals are usually very similar to the petals (thus called tepals, 1), but may be completely distinct.
The medial petal, called the labellum or lip, which is always modified and enlarged, is actually the upper medial petal; however, as the flower develops, the inferior ovary or the pedicel usually rotates 180°, so that the labellum arrives at the lower part of the flower, thus becoming suitable to form a platform for pollinators. This characteristic, called resupination, occurs primitively in the family and is considered apomorphic, a derived characteristic all Orchidaceae share. The torsion of the ovary is very evident from the longitudinal section shown (below right). Some orchids have secondarily lost this resupination, e.g. Epidendrum secundum.
The normal form of the sepals can be found in Cattleya, where they form a triangle. In Paphiopedilum (Venus slippers), the lower two sepals are fused into a synsepal, while the lip has taken the form of a slipper. In Masdevallia, all the sepals are fused.
Orchid flowers with abnormal numbers of petals or lips are called peloric. Peloria is a genetic trait, but its expression is environmentally influenced and may appear random.
Orchid flowers primitively had three stamens, but this situation is now limited to the genus Neuwiedia. Apostasia and the Cypripedioideae have two stamens, the central one being sterile and reduced to a staminode. All of the other orchids, the clade called Monandria, retain only the central stamen, the others being reduced to staminodes . The filaments of the stamens are always adnate (fused) to the style to form cylindrical structure called the gynostemium or column .In the primitive Apostasioideae, this fusion is only partial; in the Vanilloideae, it is more deep; in Orchidoideae and Epidendroideae, it is total. The stigma is very asymmetrical, as all of its lobes are bent towards the centre of the flower and lie on the bottom of the column.
Pollen is released as single grains, like in most other plants, in the Apostasioideae, Cypripedioideae, and Vanilloideae. In the other subfamilies, which comprise the great majority of orchids, the anther carries two pollinia.
A pollinium is a waxy mass of pollen grains held together by the glue-like alkaloid viscin, containing both cellulosic strands and mucopolysaccharides. Each pollinium is connected to a filament which can take the form of a caudicle, as in Dactylorhiza or Habenaria, or a stipe, as in Vanda. Caudicles or stipes hold the pollinia to the viscidium, a sticky pad which sticks the pollinia to the body of pollinators.
At the upper edge of the stigma of single-anthered orchids, in front of the anther cap, is the rostellum , a slender extension involved in the complex pollination mechanism.
As mentioned, the ovary is always inferior (located behind the flower). It is three-carpelate and one or, more rarely, three-partitioned, with parietal placentation (axile in the Apostasioideae).
In 2011, Bulbophyllum nocturnum was discovered to flower nocturnally.
Along with the Asteraceae, they are one of the two largest families of flowering plants. The Orchidaceae have about 28,000 currently accepted species, distributed in about 763 genera.The determination of which family is larger is still under debate, because verified data on the members of such enormous families are continually in flux. Regardless, the number of orchid species nearly equals the number of bony fishes and is more than twice the number of bird species, and about four times the number of mammal species. The family also encompasses about 6–11% of all seed plants.[4] The largest genera are Bulbophyllum (2,000 species), Epidendrum (1,500 species), Dendrobium (1,400 species) and Pleurothallis (1,000 species).
The family also includes Vanilla (the genus of the vanilla plant), Orchis (type genus), and many commonly cultivated plants such as Phalaenopsis and Cattleya. Moreover, since the introduction of tropical species into cultivation in the 19th century, horticulturists have produced more than 100,000 hybrids and cultivars.
Description
Orchids are easily distinguished from other plants, as they share some very evident, shared derived characteristics, or "apomorphies". Among these are: bilateral symmetry of the flower (zygomorphism), many resupinate flowers, a nearly always highly modified petal (labellum), fused stamens and carpels, and extremely small seeds.
Stem and roots
All orchids are perennial herbs that lack any permanent woody structure. They can grow according to two patterns:
Monopodial: The stem grows from a single bud, leaves are added from the apex each year and the stem grows longer accordingly. The stem of orchids with a monopodial growth can reach several metres in length, as in Vanda and Vanilla.
Sympodial: Sympodial orchids have a front (the newest growth) and a back (the oldest growth).The plant produces a series of adjacent shoots which grow to a certain size, bloom and then stop growing and are replaced. Sympodial orchids grow laterally rather than vertically, following the surface of their support. The growth continues by development of new leads, with their own leaves and roots, sprouting from or next to those of the previous year, as in Cattleya. While a new lead is developing, the rhizome may start its growth again from a so-called 'eye', an undeveloped bud, thereby branching. Sympodial orchids may have visible pseudobulbs joined by a rhizome, which creeps along the top or just beneath the soil.
Terrestrial orchids may be rhizomatous or form corms or tubers. The root caps of terrestrial orchids are smooth and white.
Some sympodial terrestrial orchids, such as Orchis and Ophrys, have two subterranean tuberous roots. One is used as a food reserve for wintry periods, and provides for the development of the other one, from which visible growth develops.
In warm and constantly humid climates, many terrestrial orchids do not need pseudobulbs.
Epiphytic orchids, those that grow upon a support, have modified aerial roots that can sometimes be a few meters long. In the older parts of the roots, a modified spongy epidermis, called velamen, has the function to absorb humidity. It is made of dead cells and can have a silvery-grey, white or brown appearance. In some orchids, the velamen includes spongy and fibrous bodies near the passage cells, called tilosomes.
The cells of the root epidermis grow at a right angle to the axis of the root to allow them to get a firm grasp on their support. Nutrients for epiphytic orchids mainly come from mineral dust, organic detritus, animal droppings and other substances collecting among on their supporting surfaces.
The base of the stem of sympodial epiphytes, or in some species essentially the entire stem, may be thickened to form a pseudobulb that contains nutrients and water for drier periods.
The pseudobulb has a smooth surface with lengthwise grooves, and can have different shapes, often conical or oblong. Its size is very variable; in some small species of Bulbophyllum, it is no longer than two millimeters, while in the largest orchid in the world, Grammatophyllum speciosum (giant orchid), it can reach three meters. Some Dendrobium species have long, canelike pseudobulbs with short, rounded leaves over the whole length; some other orchids have hidden or extremely small pseudobulbs, completely included inside the leaves.
With ageing, the pseudobulb sheds its leaves and becomes dormant. At this stage, it is often called a backbulb. Backbulbs still hold nutrition for the plant, but then a pseudobulb usually takes over, exploiting the last reserves accumulated in the backbulb, which eventually dies off, too. A pseudobulb typically lives for about five years. Orchids without noticeable pseudobulbs are also said to have growths, an individual component of a sympodial plant.
Leaves
Like most monocots, orchids generally have simple leaves with parallel veins, although some Vanilloideae have reticulate venation. Leaves may be ovate, lanceolate, or orbiculate, and very variable in size on the individual plant. Their characteristics are often diagnostic. They are normally alternate on the stem, often folded lengthwise along the centre ("plicate"), and have no stipules. Orchid leaves often have siliceous bodies called stegmata in the vascular bundle sheaths (not present in the Orchidoideae) and are fibrous.
The structure of the leaves corresponds to the specific habitat of the plant. Species that typically bask in sunlight, or grow on sites which can be occasionally very dry, have thick, leathery leaves and the laminae are covered by a waxy cuticle to retain their necessary water supply. Shade-loving species, on the other hand, have long, thin leaves.
The leaves of most orchids are perennial, that is, they live for several years, while others, especially those with plicate leaves as in Catasetum, shed them annually and develop new leaves together with new pseudobulbs.
The leaves of some orchids are considered ornamental. The leaves of the Macodes sanderiana, a semiterrestrial or rock-hugging ("lithophyte") orchid, show a sparkling silver and gold veining on a light green background. The cordate leaves of Psychopsis limminghei are light brownish-green with maroon-puce markings, created by flower pigments. The attractive mottle of the leaves of lady's slippers from tropical and subtropical Asia (Paphiopedilum), is caused by uneven distribution of chlorophyll. Also, Phalaenopsis schilleriana is a pastel pink orchid with leaves spotted dark green and light green. The jewel orchid (Ludisia discolor) is grown more for its colorful leaves than its white flowers.
Some orchids, as Dendrophylax lindenii (ghost orchid), Aphyllorchis and Taeniophyllum depend on their green roots for photosynthesis and lack normally developed leaves, as do all of the heterotrophic species.
Orchids of the genus Corallorhiza (coralroot orchids) lack leaves altogether and instead wrap their roots around the roots of mature trees and use specialized fungi to harvest sugars.
Flowers
The Orchidaceae are well known for the many structural variations in their flowers.
Some orchids have single flowers, but most have a racemose inflorescence, sometimes with a large number of flowers. The flowering stem can be basal, that is, produced from the base of the tuber, like in Cymbidium, apical, meaning it grows from the apex of the main stem, like in Cattleya, or axillary, from the leaf axil, as in Vanda`.
As an apomorphy of the clade, orchid flowers are primitively zygomorphic (bilaterally symmetrical), although in some genera like Mormodes, Ludisia, and Macodes, this kind of symmetry may be difficult to notice.
The orchid flower, like most flowers of monocots, has two whorls of sterile elements. The outer whorl has three sepals and the inner whorl has three petals. The sepals are usually very similar to the petals (thus called tepals, 1), but may be completely distinct.
The medial petal, called the labellum or lip, which is always modified and enlarged, is actually the upper medial petal; however, as the flower develops, the inferior ovary or the pedicel usually rotates 180°, so that the labellum arrives at the lower part of the flower, thus becoming suitable to form a platform for pollinators. This characteristic, called resupination, occurs primitively in the family and is considered apomorphic, a derived characteristic all Orchidaceae share. The torsion of the ovary is very evident from the longitudinal section shown (below right). Some orchids have secondarily lost this resupination, e.g. Epidendrum secundum.
The normal form of the sepals can be found in Cattleya, where they form a triangle. In Paphiopedilum (Venus slippers), the lower two sepals are fused into a synsepal, while the lip has taken the form of a slipper. In Masdevallia, all the sepals are fused.
Orchid flowers with abnormal numbers of petals or lips are called peloric. Peloria is a genetic trait, but its expression is environmentally influenced and may appear random.
Orchid flowers primitively had three stamens, but this situation is now limited to the genus Neuwiedia. Apostasia and the Cypripedioideae have two stamens, the central one being sterile and reduced to a staminode. All of the other orchids, the clade called Monandria, retain only the central stamen, the others being reduced to staminodes . The filaments of the stamens are always adnate (fused) to the style to form cylindrical structure called the gynostemium or column .In the primitive Apostasioideae, this fusion is only partial; in the Vanilloideae, it is more deep; in Orchidoideae and Epidendroideae, it is total. The stigma is very asymmetrical, as all of its lobes are bent towards the centre of the flower and lie on the bottom of the column.
Pollen is released as single grains, like in most other plants, in the Apostasioideae, Cypripedioideae, and Vanilloideae. In the other subfamilies, which comprise the great majority of orchids, the anther carries two pollinia.
A pollinium is a waxy mass of pollen grains held together by the glue-like alkaloid viscin, containing both cellulosic strands and mucopolysaccharides. Each pollinium is connected to a filament which can take the form of a caudicle, as in Dactylorhiza or Habenaria, or a stipe, as in Vanda. Caudicles or stipes hold the pollinia to the viscidium, a sticky pad which sticks the pollinia to the body of pollinators.
At the upper edge of the stigma of single-anthered orchids, in front of the anther cap, is the rostellum , a slender extension involved in the complex pollination mechanism.
As mentioned, the ovary is always inferior (located behind the flower). It is three-carpelate and one or, more rarely, three-partitioned, with parietal placentation (axile in the Apostasioideae).
In 2011, Bulbophyllum nocturnum was discovered to flower nocturnally.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Description
Chrysanthemum Wild Chrysanthemum taxa are herbaceous perennial plants or subshrubs. They have alternately arranged leaves divided into leaflets with toothed or occasionally smooth edges. The compound inflorescence is an array of several flower heads, or sometimes a solitary head. The head has a base covered in layers of phyllaries. The simple row of ray florets are white, yellow or red; many horticultural specimens have been bred to bear many rows of ray florets in a great variety of colors. The disc florets of wild taxa are yellow. The fruit is a ribbed achene.Chrysanthemums, also known as ‘mums’, are one of the prettiest varieties of perennials that start blooming early in the fall. This is also known as favorite flower for the month of November.
Ornamental uses
Modern cultivated chrysanthemums are showier than their wild relatives. The flower heads occur in various forms, and can be daisy-like or decorative, like pompons or buttons. This genus contains many hybrids and thousands of cultivars developed for horticultural purposes. In addition to the traditional yellow, other colors are available, such as white, purple, and red. The most important hybrid is Chrysanthemum × morifolium (syn. C. × grandiflorum), derived primarily from C. indicum, but also involving other species.
Over 140 varieties of chrysanthemum have gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
Chrysanthemums are divided into two basic groups, garden hardy and exhibition. Garden hardy mums are new perennials capable of wintering in most northern latitudes. Exhibition varieties are not usually as sturdy. Garden hardies are defined by their ability to produce an abundance of small blooms with little if any mechanical assistance, such as staking, and withstanding wind and rain. Exhibition varieties, though, require staking, overwintering in a relatively dry, cool environment, and sometimes the addition of night lights.
The exhibition varieties can be used to create many amazing plant forms, such as large disbudded blooms, spray forms, and many artistically trained forms, such as thousand-bloom, standard (trees), fans, hanging baskets, topiary, bonsai, and cascades.
Chrysanthemum blooms are divided into 10 different bloom forms by the US National Chrysanthemum Society, Inc., which is in keeping with the international classification system. The bloom forms are defined by the way in which the ray and disk florets are arranged. Chrysanthemum blooms are composed of many individual flowers (florets), each one capable of producing a seed. The disk florets are in the center of the bloom head, and the ray florets are on the perimeter. The ray florets are considered imperfect flowers, as they only possess the female productive organs, while the disk florets are considered perfect flowers, as they possess both male and female reproductive organs.
Irregular incurves are bred to produce a giant head called an ogiku. The disk florets are concealed in layers of curving ray florets that hang down to create a 'skirt'. Regular incurves are similar, but usually with smaller blooms and a dense, globular form. Intermediate incurve blooms may have broader florets and a less densely flowered head.
In the reflex form, the disk florets are concealed and the ray florets reflex outwards to create a mop-like appearance. The decorative form is similar to reflex blooms, but the ray florets usually do not radiate at more than a 90° angle to the stem.
The pompon form is fully double, of small size, and very globular in form. Single and semidouble blooms have exposed disk florets and one to seven rows of ray florets.
In the anemone form, the disk florets are prominent, often raised and overshadowing the ray florets. The spoon-form disk florets are visible and the long, tubular ray florets are spatulate.
In the spider form, the disk florets are concealed, and the ray florets are tube-like with hooked or barbed ends, hanging loosely around the stem. In the brush and thistle variety, the disk florets may be visible.
Culinary uses
Yellow or white chrysanthemum flowers of the species C. morifolium are boiled to make a tea in some parts of Asia. The resulting beverage is known simply as chrysanthemum tea . In Korea, a rice wine flavored with chrysanthemum flowers is called gukhwaju .
Chrysanthemum leaves are steamed or boiled and used as greens, especially in Chinese cuisine. The flowers may be added to dishes such as mixian in broth, or thick snakemeat soup ( to enhance the aroma. Small chrysanthemums are used in Japan as a sashimi garnish.
Insecticidal uses
Pyrethrum (Chrysanthemum [or Tanacetum] cinerariaefolium) is economically important as a natural source of insecticide. The flowers are pulverized, and the active components, called pyrethrins, which occur in the achenes, are extracted and sold in the form of an oleoresin. This is applied as a suspension in water or oil, or as a powder. Pyrethrins attack the nervous systems of all insects, and inhibit female mosquitoes from biting. In sublethal doses they have an insect repellent effect. They are harmful to fish, but are far less toxic to mammals and birds than many synthetic insecticides. They are not persistent, being biodegradable, and also decompose easily on exposure to light. Pyrethroids such as permethrin are synthetic insecticides based on natural pyrethrum.
Chrysanthemum Wild Chrysanthemum taxa are herbaceous perennial plants or subshrubs. They have alternately arranged leaves divided into leaflets with toothed or occasionally smooth edges. The compound inflorescence is an array of several flower heads, or sometimes a solitary head. The head has a base covered in layers of phyllaries. The simple row of ray florets are white, yellow or red; many horticultural specimens have been bred to bear many rows of ray florets in a great variety of colors. The disc florets of wild taxa are yellow. The fruit is a ribbed achene.Chrysanthemums, also known as ‘mums’, are one of the prettiest varieties of perennials that start blooming early in the fall. This is also known as favorite flower for the month of November.
Ornamental uses
Modern cultivated chrysanthemums are showier than their wild relatives. The flower heads occur in various forms, and can be daisy-like or decorative, like pompons or buttons. This genus contains many hybrids and thousands of cultivars developed for horticultural purposes. In addition to the traditional yellow, other colors are available, such as white, purple, and red. The most important hybrid is Chrysanthemum × morifolium (syn. C. × grandiflorum), derived primarily from C. indicum, but also involving other species.
Over 140 varieties of chrysanthemum have gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
Chrysanthemums are divided into two basic groups, garden hardy and exhibition. Garden hardy mums are new perennials capable of wintering in most northern latitudes. Exhibition varieties are not usually as sturdy. Garden hardies are defined by their ability to produce an abundance of small blooms with little if any mechanical assistance, such as staking, and withstanding wind and rain. Exhibition varieties, though, require staking, overwintering in a relatively dry, cool environment, and sometimes the addition of night lights.
The exhibition varieties can be used to create many amazing plant forms, such as large disbudded blooms, spray forms, and many artistically trained forms, such as thousand-bloom, standard (trees), fans, hanging baskets, topiary, bonsai, and cascades.
Chrysanthemum blooms are divided into 10 different bloom forms by the US National Chrysanthemum Society, Inc., which is in keeping with the international classification system. The bloom forms are defined by the way in which the ray and disk florets are arranged. Chrysanthemum blooms are composed of many individual flowers (florets), each one capable of producing a seed. The disk florets are in the center of the bloom head, and the ray florets are on the perimeter. The ray florets are considered imperfect flowers, as they only possess the female productive organs, while the disk florets are considered perfect flowers, as they possess both male and female reproductive organs.
Irregular incurves are bred to produce a giant head called an ogiku. The disk florets are concealed in layers of curving ray florets that hang down to create a 'skirt'. Regular incurves are similar, but usually with smaller blooms and a dense, globular form. Intermediate incurve blooms may have broader florets and a less densely flowered head.
In the reflex form, the disk florets are concealed and the ray florets reflex outwards to create a mop-like appearance. The decorative form is similar to reflex blooms, but the ray florets usually do not radiate at more than a 90° angle to the stem.
The pompon form is fully double, of small size, and very globular in form. Single and semidouble blooms have exposed disk florets and one to seven rows of ray florets.
In the anemone form, the disk florets are prominent, often raised and overshadowing the ray florets. The spoon-form disk florets are visible and the long, tubular ray florets are spatulate.
In the spider form, the disk florets are concealed, and the ray florets are tube-like with hooked or barbed ends, hanging loosely around the stem. In the brush and thistle variety, the disk florets may be visible.
Culinary uses
Yellow or white chrysanthemum flowers of the species C. morifolium are boiled to make a tea in some parts of Asia. The resulting beverage is known simply as chrysanthemum tea . In Korea, a rice wine flavored with chrysanthemum flowers is called gukhwaju .
Chrysanthemum leaves are steamed or boiled and used as greens, especially in Chinese cuisine. The flowers may be added to dishes such as mixian in broth, or thick snakemeat soup ( to enhance the aroma. Small chrysanthemums are used in Japan as a sashimi garnish.
Insecticidal uses
Pyrethrum (Chrysanthemum [or Tanacetum] cinerariaefolium) is economically important as a natural source of insecticide. The flowers are pulverized, and the active components, called pyrethrins, which occur in the achenes, are extracted and sold in the form of an oleoresin. This is applied as a suspension in water or oil, or as a powder. Pyrethrins attack the nervous systems of all insects, and inhibit female mosquitoes from biting. In sublethal doses they have an insect repellent effect. They are harmful to fish, but are far less toxic to mammals and birds than many synthetic insecticides. They are not persistent, being biodegradable, and also decompose easily on exposure to light. Pyrethroids such as permethrin are synthetic insecticides based on natural pyrethrum.
0
0
