文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Air plant (Tillandsia) is the largest member of the bromeliad family, which includes the familiar pineapple. How many varieties of air plants are there? Although estimates vary, most agree there are at least 450 different types of tillandsia, not to mention countless hybrid varieties, and no two air plant varieties are exactly the same. Ready to learn about a few different types of air plants? Keep reading.
Types of Tillandsia
Tillandsia plant types are epiphytes, a huge group of plants with roots that anchor the plant to a host – often a tree or a rock. Epiphytes are different from parasitic plants because, unlike parasites, they take no nutrients from the host plant. Instead, they survive by absorbing nutrients from the air, from composted material on the host plant, and from the rain. Examples of well-known epiphytes include various mosses, ferns, lichens and orchids.
Tillandsia air plants range in size from less than an inch to more than 15 feet. Although the leaves are often green, they may be red, yellow, purple, or pink. Many species are fragrant. Tillandsias propagate by producing offshoots, often known as pups.
Air Plant Varieties
Here are some different types of air plants. T. aeranthos – This species is native to Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay and Argentina. Aeranthos is a popular air plant with scaly, silver-blue leaves with dark blue blooms emerging from dark pink bracts. It is available in several forms, including a number of hybrids. T. xerographica – This hardy air plant is native to the semi-desert regions of El Salvador, Honduras and Guatemala. Xerographica consists of a spiral rosette that can grow to widths of 3 feet, with a similar height when in flower. The silvery-gray leaves are wide at the base, curling to narrow, tapered tips. T. cyanea – This widely cultivated air plant displays loose rosettes of arching, dark green, triangle-shaped leaves, often with a stripe near the base. The spiky blooms are purple and vivid pink to dark blue. T. ionantha – The ionantha species includes several air plant varieties, all compact, striking plants with plentiful, curved leaves measuring about 1 ½ inches in length. Leaves are silvery grayish-green, turning red towards the center before the plant blooms in late spring. Depending on the variety, blooms may be purple, red, blue or white. T. purpurea – Tillandsia plant types include purpurea (which means “purple”). Purpurea is appropriately named for the bright, reddish-purple blooms, notable for their mild, cinnamon-like aroma. The leaves, which reach up to 12 in long, grow in a spiral fashion. The stiff leaves are a lovely shade of purple-tinted mauve.
Types of Tillandsia
Tillandsia plant types are epiphytes, a huge group of plants with roots that anchor the plant to a host – often a tree or a rock. Epiphytes are different from parasitic plants because, unlike parasites, they take no nutrients from the host plant. Instead, they survive by absorbing nutrients from the air, from composted material on the host plant, and from the rain. Examples of well-known epiphytes include various mosses, ferns, lichens and orchids.
Tillandsia air plants range in size from less than an inch to more than 15 feet. Although the leaves are often green, they may be red, yellow, purple, or pink. Many species are fragrant. Tillandsias propagate by producing offshoots, often known as pups.
Air Plant Varieties
Here are some different types of air plants. T. aeranthos – This species is native to Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay and Argentina. Aeranthos is a popular air plant with scaly, silver-blue leaves with dark blue blooms emerging from dark pink bracts. It is available in several forms, including a number of hybrids. T. xerographica – This hardy air plant is native to the semi-desert regions of El Salvador, Honduras and Guatemala. Xerographica consists of a spiral rosette that can grow to widths of 3 feet, with a similar height when in flower. The silvery-gray leaves are wide at the base, curling to narrow, tapered tips. T. cyanea – This widely cultivated air plant displays loose rosettes of arching, dark green, triangle-shaped leaves, often with a stripe near the base. The spiky blooms are purple and vivid pink to dark blue. T. ionantha – The ionantha species includes several air plant varieties, all compact, striking plants with plentiful, curved leaves measuring about 1 ½ inches in length. Leaves are silvery grayish-green, turning red towards the center before the plant blooms in late spring. Depending on the variety, blooms may be purple, red, blue or white. T. purpurea – Tillandsia plant types include purpurea (which means “purple”). Purpurea is appropriately named for the bright, reddish-purple blooms, notable for their mild, cinnamon-like aroma. The leaves, which reach up to 12 in long, grow in a spiral fashion. The stiff leaves are a lovely shade of purple-tinted mauve.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Epiphytes are one of nature’s most adaptive plants. These wonderful specimens can thrive without deep soil by harvesting much of their water and nutrient needs from the air. Some epiphytes reproduce through pups and others from seed or vegetative action. The easiest epiphyte plant propagation is through pups, but not all varieties produce these. Seed can take years to develop recognizable plants, while cuttings on epiphytic cacti seem the best choice. Propagating epiphytic plants starts with recognizing which type of plant you are growing and choosing the method best for that species.
Propagating Epiphytic Plants
There are many types of epiphytic plants. Bromeliads are one of the most common houseplants but you may also come upon epiphytic cacti, Tillandsia and other species. Each has a different method of reproduction. Knowing how to propagate epiphytic plants will help increase your collection and sustain any favorite specimens. Epiphyte plant propagation is not particularly difficult but there are a few rules to observe and patience is a virtue.
Epiphytic Seed Propagation
Propagation by seed is probably the most universally recognized method for any plant. Epiphytes can be grown from seed if it can be acquired or gather seed from your own plants. Use a well-draining substrate, such as half sand and half peat or even pure vermiculite. Moisten the substrate evenly and sow seeds almost at the surface of the soil and barely covered with sand. Most epiphytes hail from heavy, thick jungles and prefer low light conditions which means they seed in such lighting. Keep your container in a low light area of the home where temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.). A heat mat will greatly improve the chances of germination. Keep the substrate lightly moist but not soggy. The time of germination will vary upon species. You will not need to start transplanting epiphytes grown from seed for at least two years; yes, they grow that slowly.
How to Propagate Epiphytic Plants with Cuttings
Probably the best species for cuttings are cacti. Epiphytic cacti cuttings produce an exact clone of the parent plant and will flower and fruit much more quickly than plants sown with seed. This method of epiphyte plant propagation can yield roots in just weeks and blooms within the year. Use clean, sterile cutting implements to avoid transfer of disease. Cuttings can be taken any time of the year but tend to work best if taken in spring. If the plant is branching and has segmented stems, take the cutting at the joint. If the plant has pads, either cut at the base of the pad or you can take the upper segment of the pad. Allow cuttings to callus for a week before planting in sterile sand that has been moistened. If the cactus is a sun seeker, place container in a bright location and if the parent was a low light plant, site the cutting in less light. Keep the medium moderately moist and temperatures high, up to 75 degrees F. (24 C.) provides optimum germination conditions.
Propagating Pups
No, we’re not talking about canines, but the offsets on many epiphytes. Bromeliads are a classic example of a plant that produces pups. Over the years, a single plant can become a crowded group of small and large plants all clustered together. These are pups and are easy to remove from the parent and plant singly. Transplanting epiphytes in this manner results in faster mature plants and is so easy even a novice gardener can accomplish the task successfully. Pups should be 1/3 as tall as the parent. You may either pull the pup away from the mother or use a sharp knife to cut it away. Ensure part of the mother’s root system is attached. Allow the broken or cut end to callus for up to a week. Prepare moist, sterile soil and insert the pup just deep enough so it stands upright. Keep the container in moderate light where temperatures are warm and in a few weeks it will start to root. Care of pups is the same as adult plants.
Propagating Epiphytic Plants
There are many types of epiphytic plants. Bromeliads are one of the most common houseplants but you may also come upon epiphytic cacti, Tillandsia and other species. Each has a different method of reproduction. Knowing how to propagate epiphytic plants will help increase your collection and sustain any favorite specimens. Epiphyte plant propagation is not particularly difficult but there are a few rules to observe and patience is a virtue.
Epiphytic Seed Propagation
Propagation by seed is probably the most universally recognized method for any plant. Epiphytes can be grown from seed if it can be acquired or gather seed from your own plants. Use a well-draining substrate, such as half sand and half peat or even pure vermiculite. Moisten the substrate evenly and sow seeds almost at the surface of the soil and barely covered with sand. Most epiphytes hail from heavy, thick jungles and prefer low light conditions which means they seed in such lighting. Keep your container in a low light area of the home where temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.). A heat mat will greatly improve the chances of germination. Keep the substrate lightly moist but not soggy. The time of germination will vary upon species. You will not need to start transplanting epiphytes grown from seed for at least two years; yes, they grow that slowly.
How to Propagate Epiphytic Plants with Cuttings
Probably the best species for cuttings are cacti. Epiphytic cacti cuttings produce an exact clone of the parent plant and will flower and fruit much more quickly than plants sown with seed. This method of epiphyte plant propagation can yield roots in just weeks and blooms within the year. Use clean, sterile cutting implements to avoid transfer of disease. Cuttings can be taken any time of the year but tend to work best if taken in spring. If the plant is branching and has segmented stems, take the cutting at the joint. If the plant has pads, either cut at the base of the pad or you can take the upper segment of the pad. Allow cuttings to callus for a week before planting in sterile sand that has been moistened. If the cactus is a sun seeker, place container in a bright location and if the parent was a low light plant, site the cutting in less light. Keep the medium moderately moist and temperatures high, up to 75 degrees F. (24 C.) provides optimum germination conditions.
Propagating Pups
No, we’re not talking about canines, but the offsets on many epiphytes. Bromeliads are a classic example of a plant that produces pups. Over the years, a single plant can become a crowded group of small and large plants all clustered together. These are pups and are easy to remove from the parent and plant singly. Transplanting epiphytes in this manner results in faster mature plants and is so easy even a novice gardener can accomplish the task successfully. Pups should be 1/3 as tall as the parent. You may either pull the pup away from the mother or use a sharp knife to cut it away. Ensure part of the mother’s root system is attached. Allow the broken or cut end to callus for up to a week. Prepare moist, sterile soil and insert the pup just deep enough so it stands upright. Keep the container in moderate light where temperatures are warm and in a few weeks it will start to root. Care of pups is the same as adult plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids have a reputation for being difficult and laborious to care for, but do not let that discourage you from keeping the plants in your home or greenhouse. Most of the orchids on the mainstream market today are hybrid varieties, bred specifically for beauty combined with ease of care.
Location
If you do not have a greenhouse or a conservatory, place orchids on a windowsill. If you see that the leaves are reddening at the edges or have become pale and yellow, the orchid is getting too much light. Move it to a shadier spot. You will know when the level of light is good because the orchid's leaves will stay glossy and green. During the summer months, keep orchids outside in indirect sun. Remember to water them regularly, and occasionally feed them with an orchid fertilizer.
Moisture
Orchids thrive in a humid atmosphere and they must have excellent ventilation around their roots. Never re-pot your orchid in regular soil---you need a special orchid mix and special pots with air vents. If you live in a dry climate, it will help to sit your orchids on a tray of pebbles. Keep a shallow layer of water around the pebbles, but make sure the orchid's roots are never submerged. The water moistens the air around the orchid. To replicate humid conditions, spritz the orchid with water regularly.
Temperature
Orchids generally can not tolerate temperatures lower than 50 degrees. If your orchids are kept outside during warmer months, wait until nighttime temperatures have dropped into the 50s, as the colder air promotes the growth of new stems and blooms. Because orchids thrive in temperatures up to around 85 degrees, in most climates it is unlikely to become too hot for them indoors. When temperatures are high, increase the amount and frequency of watering. In hot climates, look for heat-tolerant orchids like Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium.
Location
If you do not have a greenhouse or a conservatory, place orchids on a windowsill. If you see that the leaves are reddening at the edges or have become pale and yellow, the orchid is getting too much light. Move it to a shadier spot. You will know when the level of light is good because the orchid's leaves will stay glossy and green. During the summer months, keep orchids outside in indirect sun. Remember to water them regularly, and occasionally feed them with an orchid fertilizer.
Moisture
Orchids thrive in a humid atmosphere and they must have excellent ventilation around their roots. Never re-pot your orchid in regular soil---you need a special orchid mix and special pots with air vents. If you live in a dry climate, it will help to sit your orchids on a tray of pebbles. Keep a shallow layer of water around the pebbles, but make sure the orchid's roots are never submerged. The water moistens the air around the orchid. To replicate humid conditions, spritz the orchid with water regularly.
Temperature
Orchids generally can not tolerate temperatures lower than 50 degrees. If your orchids are kept outside during warmer months, wait until nighttime temperatures have dropped into the 50s, as the colder air promotes the growth of new stems and blooms. Because orchids thrive in temperatures up to around 85 degrees, in most climates it is unlikely to become too hot for them indoors. When temperatures are high, increase the amount and frequency of watering. In hot climates, look for heat-tolerant orchids like Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are considered one of the most enigmatic plants and can be intimidating to grow at home. Consisting of single blooms on a single stalk, the delicate flower is a sight to behold. Once the petals drop, you are left with a lonely, empty stem. With consistent care, it is possible to encourage the plant to flower again.
Immediately After Blooming
When the last flower drops from your orchid plant, it is time to begin a care and maintenance routine that will help your plant bloom again. Begin by trimming the spent stalk back by half. Cut with a clean, sharp blade and seal the cut with melted wax to prevent bacterial infection.
Encouraging Rebloom
The plant will typically send out new growth near the cut site. Continue your watering and fertilizing schedule to encourage rebloom. Most orchids grown in the home should be watered every 5 to 12 days, depending on the medium it is grown in and the current season. Orchids typically fall into one of three categories for watering needs: those that require consistently moist (but not soggy) soil; those that prefer moist soil but should dry out between watering; and those that perform best when the soil is kept nearly dry.
Check the packaging included when you purchased your orchid to determine which watering schedule to follow. Fertilizer should be applied once per month. Inadequate fertilization can stunt growth and affect blooms. Fertilizing too often can burn the roots and leaves. Keep the plant in a location that receives strong but indirect light; a south-facing window is ideal. Monitor leaf color to determine if your orchid is receiving the proper amount of light. A plant receiving too little light will have dark green leaves, while one receiving too much light will present reddish-green leaves. Ideal light conditions will cause bright green leaves to appear.
Be consistent in your care routine and patient with your orchid. Orchids are notoriously slow-growing and the rebloom may take place up to one year after the new growth appears.
Immediately After Blooming
When the last flower drops from your orchid plant, it is time to begin a care and maintenance routine that will help your plant bloom again. Begin by trimming the spent stalk back by half. Cut with a clean, sharp blade and seal the cut with melted wax to prevent bacterial infection.
Encouraging Rebloom
The plant will typically send out new growth near the cut site. Continue your watering and fertilizing schedule to encourage rebloom. Most orchids grown in the home should be watered every 5 to 12 days, depending on the medium it is grown in and the current season. Orchids typically fall into one of three categories for watering needs: those that require consistently moist (but not soggy) soil; those that prefer moist soil but should dry out between watering; and those that perform best when the soil is kept nearly dry.
Check the packaging included when you purchased your orchid to determine which watering schedule to follow. Fertilizer should be applied once per month. Inadequate fertilization can stunt growth and affect blooms. Fertilizing too often can burn the roots and leaves. Keep the plant in a location that receives strong but indirect light; a south-facing window is ideal. Monitor leaf color to determine if your orchid is receiving the proper amount of light. A plant receiving too little light will have dark green leaves, while one receiving too much light will present reddish-green leaves. Ideal light conditions will cause bright green leaves to appear.
Be consistent in your care routine and patient with your orchid. Orchids are notoriously slow-growing and the rebloom may take place up to one year after the new growth appears.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
The ghost orchid is so rare that it has been put on the list of threatened and endangered plants in Florida, one of the few places where it grows. The number of ghost orchids there is around 1,200, and it is illegal to pick any of them from the wild. Since you can't pick them yourself, you're going to need how to buy them, and how to do so within the law.
Step 1
Determine whether you are up to the challenge of even owning a ghost orchid in the first place. The reason that ghost orchids are so rare in the wild is because they have such a low survival rate--and they have an even lower survival rate in captivity. You're going to need just the right temperature, just the right care, and even then, most ghost orchids will die before growing to their full size.
Step 2
Find a nursery or garden center that sells ghost orchid seedlings. You will not be able to find full-grown ghost orchids to buy, since nurseries and garden centers take a profit risk trying to grow them. Most nurseries or garden centers that sell ghost orchid seedlings are located in Florida. Call your local nurseries or garden centers ahead of time, since these orchids are rare. Ask if the seedlings can be ordered if they are not in stock.
Step 3
Search for online orchid dealers if no nursery or garden center near you carries ghost orchid seedlings. Understand that buying online makes growing the ghost orchid even harder, since seedlings may be damaged during shipping.
Step 4
Prepare an area to grow your ghost orchid before you buy it. The ghost orchid is not a plant you pop in the dirt to grow; it needs a special system designed for its growing needs.
Step 1
Determine whether you are up to the challenge of even owning a ghost orchid in the first place. The reason that ghost orchids are so rare in the wild is because they have such a low survival rate--and they have an even lower survival rate in captivity. You're going to need just the right temperature, just the right care, and even then, most ghost orchids will die before growing to their full size.
Step 2
Find a nursery or garden center that sells ghost orchid seedlings. You will not be able to find full-grown ghost orchids to buy, since nurseries and garden centers take a profit risk trying to grow them. Most nurseries or garden centers that sell ghost orchid seedlings are located in Florida. Call your local nurseries or garden centers ahead of time, since these orchids are rare. Ask if the seedlings can be ordered if they are not in stock.
Step 3
Search for online orchid dealers if no nursery or garden center near you carries ghost orchid seedlings. Understand that buying online makes growing the ghost orchid even harder, since seedlings may be damaged during shipping.
Step 4
Prepare an area to grow your ghost orchid before you buy it. The ghost orchid is not a plant you pop in the dirt to grow; it needs a special system designed for its growing needs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Ground orchids flower year round and with the right conditions, they grow for years. They are native to south eastern Asia and the Philippines and they do well in pots as well as flower beds. They are plants that communicate their needs with several visual indicators, so as long as you know what the signs are, taking care of your ground orchid is simple.
Step 1
Add some fertilizer and compost to the soil you want to plant with a spade. You can also add charcoal, which keeps the soil loose and can help the roots spread.
Step 2
Separate some ground orchid plants from the main group, because ground orchids reproduce when you divide them. Plant them in separate pots or in the prepared ground three to six inches apart. They need space and loose soil for their roots to spread out.
Step 3
Water your ground orchid every five to twelve days, depending on the humidity in the environment. Allow the roots to dry out completely between waterings, or you risk killing them. Some orchids differ from ground orchids here and need their roots kept moist. Do not let the leaves on an orchid stay wet, or the plant may rot. Dry them with a cotton ball or tissue.
Step 4
Keep your ground orchid in low-light or somewhat shady areas. If you have it in a pot indoors, put it in a window behind a curtain. In a flower bed, you might want to construct a trellis over your orchids to shade them and keep heavy rainfall off of them. If orchids get too much light, their leaves shade red. With too little light they turn dark green. You want bright green leaves on your orchids.
Step 5
Deadhead your ground orchids by cutting the stems with flowers that have finished blooming and now wilt. This helps the plant continue to bloom. Check for dead or dying flowers every few days. If your plant stops blooming, cut the stem at a node or knob below the flower with gardening shears. If it is a really young plant, cut it near the ground, but it might take up to a year before it blooms again.
Step 1
Add some fertilizer and compost to the soil you want to plant with a spade. You can also add charcoal, which keeps the soil loose and can help the roots spread.
Step 2
Separate some ground orchid plants from the main group, because ground orchids reproduce when you divide them. Plant them in separate pots or in the prepared ground three to six inches apart. They need space and loose soil for their roots to spread out.
Step 3
Water your ground orchid every five to twelve days, depending on the humidity in the environment. Allow the roots to dry out completely between waterings, or you risk killing them. Some orchids differ from ground orchids here and need their roots kept moist. Do not let the leaves on an orchid stay wet, or the plant may rot. Dry them with a cotton ball or tissue.
Step 4
Keep your ground orchid in low-light or somewhat shady areas. If you have it in a pot indoors, put it in a window behind a curtain. In a flower bed, you might want to construct a trellis over your orchids to shade them and keep heavy rainfall off of them. If orchids get too much light, their leaves shade red. With too little light they turn dark green. You want bright green leaves on your orchids.
Step 5
Deadhead your ground orchids by cutting the stems with flowers that have finished blooming and now wilt. This helps the plant continue to bloom. Check for dead or dying flowers every few days. If your plant stops blooming, cut the stem at a node or knob below the flower with gardening shears. If it is a really young plant, cut it near the ground, but it might take up to a year before it blooms again.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Despite their upscale reputation, orchids can be as easy to grow as more plebian plants. Among the varieties recommended for novices are the moth orchid (Phalaenopsis spp.), dancing ladies orchid (Oncidium spp. ), slipper orchid (Paphiopedilum spp.), and florist's orchid (Cattleya spp.). The first type is perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 11 to 12 and the second in USDA zones 10 to 11, while the hardiness of the latter two varies according to species from USDA zones 10 to 12. Most orchids are grown as potted house plants or greenhouse plants.
Windows and Warmth
Moth and slipper orchids will burn if given too much sunlight. They should occupy an east- or west-facing windowsill where they receive only a few hours of early morning or late afternoon rays or bright, indirect light. Dancing ladies and florist's orchids require stronger illumination. Place them on a sunny south-facing windowsill with a sheer curtain between them and the glass. Orchids will also grow happily under two shop lights, hung side by side 6 to 12 inches above the plants' leaves and timed to run for 12 to 16 hours every day. Position the most light-loving plants under the center of the four fluorescent tubes and the others closer to the ends. Orchids prefer a 10-degree drop in night-time temperatures, which you can provide for part of the year by keeping them outdoors -- on a roofed porch or under the high shade of a tree -- during summer.
Soil and Sustenance
Because most of these orchids grow on trees in their native habitats, they should be potted in orchid bark rather than soil. The exception is the semi-terrestrial slipper orchid, which needs a constantly damp medium, so grow it in an orchid mix which combines both compost and bark. For plants potted solely in bark, apply a high-nitrogen orchid plant food such as 30-10-10 once every two weeks during spring and summer, mixing 1/4 teaspoon of the plant food crystals with 1 gallon of water. For those whose mix contains soil, opt for a balanced 20-20-20 plant food every two weeks, using 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water. In the fall, switch to a 10-30-20 plant food for all types, at the 1/2 teaspoon per gallon rate, to encourage bud production. Reduce the feedings to once a month at the same rate during the winter.
H2O and Humidity
With the exception of the slipper types, whose soil should be kept lightly moist, the orchids should be allowed to almost dry out before you water them again. They usually won't need to be watered more than twice a week during the summer months, perhaps once a week during the winter. If you grow your orchids in cache pots -- outer pots which conceal the inner ones -- be sure to empty the excess water out of those pots or the plants' roots will rot. To help provide the high humidity orchids prefer, place trays of gravel beneath the pots, but always keep the water level in those trays below the surface of the gravel.
Pests and Pathogens
These orchids can suffer from aphids, scale insects, spider mites, and thrips, which give the appearance respectively of green lice, brown bumps, mottled leaves with webbing, and white streaks on the flowers. Spray the plants thoroughly in the early morning with insecticidal soap, using about 1 1/4 tablespoons of the soap solution per quart of water. Repeat the treatment two days later for aphids or one week later for other insects. If kept too wet and/or cold, orchids can also suffer from black or brown blotches or rot on the foliage. Use pruning shears or a pruning knife to cut out the affected areas, dipping the blade or blades between cuts in a mix of 1 part rubbing alcohol and 1 part water, and dust the cut edges with an anti-fungal such as powdered cinnamon.
Windows and Warmth
Moth and slipper orchids will burn if given too much sunlight. They should occupy an east- or west-facing windowsill where they receive only a few hours of early morning or late afternoon rays or bright, indirect light. Dancing ladies and florist's orchids require stronger illumination. Place them on a sunny south-facing windowsill with a sheer curtain between them and the glass. Orchids will also grow happily under two shop lights, hung side by side 6 to 12 inches above the plants' leaves and timed to run for 12 to 16 hours every day. Position the most light-loving plants under the center of the four fluorescent tubes and the others closer to the ends. Orchids prefer a 10-degree drop in night-time temperatures, which you can provide for part of the year by keeping them outdoors -- on a roofed porch or under the high shade of a tree -- during summer.
Soil and Sustenance
Because most of these orchids grow on trees in their native habitats, they should be potted in orchid bark rather than soil. The exception is the semi-terrestrial slipper orchid, which needs a constantly damp medium, so grow it in an orchid mix which combines both compost and bark. For plants potted solely in bark, apply a high-nitrogen orchid plant food such as 30-10-10 once every two weeks during spring and summer, mixing 1/4 teaspoon of the plant food crystals with 1 gallon of water. For those whose mix contains soil, opt for a balanced 20-20-20 plant food every two weeks, using 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water. In the fall, switch to a 10-30-20 plant food for all types, at the 1/2 teaspoon per gallon rate, to encourage bud production. Reduce the feedings to once a month at the same rate during the winter.
H2O and Humidity
With the exception of the slipper types, whose soil should be kept lightly moist, the orchids should be allowed to almost dry out before you water them again. They usually won't need to be watered more than twice a week during the summer months, perhaps once a week during the winter. If you grow your orchids in cache pots -- outer pots which conceal the inner ones -- be sure to empty the excess water out of those pots or the plants' roots will rot. To help provide the high humidity orchids prefer, place trays of gravel beneath the pots, but always keep the water level in those trays below the surface of the gravel.
Pests and Pathogens
These orchids can suffer from aphids, scale insects, spider mites, and thrips, which give the appearance respectively of green lice, brown bumps, mottled leaves with webbing, and white streaks on the flowers. Spray the plants thoroughly in the early morning with insecticidal soap, using about 1 1/4 tablespoons of the soap solution per quart of water. Repeat the treatment two days later for aphids or one week later for other insects. If kept too wet and/or cold, orchids can also suffer from black or brown blotches or rot on the foliage. Use pruning shears or a pruning knife to cut out the affected areas, dipping the blade or blades between cuts in a mix of 1 part rubbing alcohol and 1 part water, and dust the cut edges with an anti-fungal such as powdered cinnamon.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Contrary to popular belief, orchids are not difficult to grow as houseplants. However, these exotic plants have different cultural needs than most varieties of houseplants. Prematurely wilting flowers are frequently a sign of incorrect growing conditions that affect the overall health of the plant. Providing the proper care encourages the growth of healthy foliage and abundant blossoms.
Blossoms
Depending on the variety of orchid, the average blossom season lasts one to two months. During this time, numerous buds open and wilt until the end of the blossoming season. Some varieties, such as Phalaenopsis, produce a continual supply of blossoms for a period up to three months. Most varieties produce new blossoms the following year although some orchids bloom two or three times each year. Negligence can cause plants to stop flowering prematurely or wilt suddenly.
Environment
Orchids need a controlled environment to produce healthy blossoms. Nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for orchids, while daytime temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit provide the best environment for orchids. These plants prefer about a 10-degree difference between the daytime and nighttime temperatures. Orchids require at least eight hours of sunlight each day. Inadequate light is one of the main reasons for depleted blossoms and reluctance to bloom. These plants flourish in sunny windowsills as long as the heat remains near 75 degrees. However, moving a wilting plant from a shady location directly into full sunlight can shock the plant. Gradually acclimate a wilting orchid by placing it in sunlight for a few hours each day.
Moisture
Like many tropical exotics, orchids require even soil moisture at all times. Orchids in full bloom tend to require more water than orchids with only foliage. Providing additional water during the flowering season discourages wilting due to dehydration. A pot with good drainage holes and a layer of sphagnum moss over the loamy soil ensures sufficient moisture and adequate drainage.
Nutrients
Although most orchids come from the nursery potted in rich, nutritious orchid media, continued growth can deplete the soil of nutrients. Applying a diluted fertilizer once each week during the flowering season will encourage healthy, long-lived blossoms. Select a fertilizer labeled for use on orchids and follow the label instructions for mixing and applying the plant food.
Blossoms
Depending on the variety of orchid, the average blossom season lasts one to two months. During this time, numerous buds open and wilt until the end of the blossoming season. Some varieties, such as Phalaenopsis, produce a continual supply of blossoms for a period up to three months. Most varieties produce new blossoms the following year although some orchids bloom two or three times each year. Negligence can cause plants to stop flowering prematurely or wilt suddenly.
Environment
Orchids need a controlled environment to produce healthy blossoms. Nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for orchids, while daytime temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit provide the best environment for orchids. These plants prefer about a 10-degree difference between the daytime and nighttime temperatures. Orchids require at least eight hours of sunlight each day. Inadequate light is one of the main reasons for depleted blossoms and reluctance to bloom. These plants flourish in sunny windowsills as long as the heat remains near 75 degrees. However, moving a wilting plant from a shady location directly into full sunlight can shock the plant. Gradually acclimate a wilting orchid by placing it in sunlight for a few hours each day.
Moisture
Like many tropical exotics, orchids require even soil moisture at all times. Orchids in full bloom tend to require more water than orchids with only foliage. Providing additional water during the flowering season discourages wilting due to dehydration. A pot with good drainage holes and a layer of sphagnum moss over the loamy soil ensures sufficient moisture and adequate drainage.
Nutrients
Although most orchids come from the nursery potted in rich, nutritious orchid media, continued growth can deplete the soil of nutrients. Applying a diluted fertilizer once each week during the flowering season will encourage healthy, long-lived blossoms. Select a fertilizer labeled for use on orchids and follow the label instructions for mixing and applying the plant food.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Like most plants, when an orchid (plants in the Orchidaceae family) produces new leaves, older ones naturally turn yellow before dying back. When newer leaves turn yellow, it's important to reevaluate how you care for the plant and then check it for some common orchid diseases. While almost all of the symptoms of these include some sort of yellowing of the leaves, only a few turn leaves completely yellow.
Too Much Light
Most of the more than 25,000 species of orchids grow in tropical forests, shaded by the canopy. Although some species thrive in bright sunlight, others will experience yellow foliage. This will eventually drop off the plant. To avoid the problem in the future, provide the orchid with indirect sunlight by setting it on the sill of an east-facing window or within two feet of a south-facing window. If you know that your particular orchid species requires medium sunlight, place it on the sill of a west-facing window or within one foot of a window that receives southern exposure.
Cold Temperatures
Orchids are hardy outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on species. Outside of the tropics, most are grown indoors, however, where they do fine with typical indoor temperatures. Some orchids, such as phalaenopsis (Phalaenopsis spp.), hardy in USDA zones 10 through 12, are sensitive to temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and leaves will turn yellow. Again, these leaves will naturally fall from the plant. Adjust the temperature until you find one that suits the orchid best, between 60 and 80 degrees during the daytime and 50 to 55 degrees at night.
Bacterial Rot
Bacterial soft and brown rot are orchid diseases that turn the orchid's leaves yellow before they darken to black. Treat the infection by removing affected parts of the plant with sterile tools and then spraying the orchid until it is wet with a broad-range virucide, bactericide and fungicide, such as Physan 20. Use 2 teaspoons in 1 gallon of water. Repeat the spray once a month to prevent further occurrences. Keeping the foliage dry and increasing air circulation around the orchid also helps prevent this infection.
Fusarium Wilt
This disease can be distinguished from other orchid diseases by the wrinkled or shriveled appearance of the yellow leaves. Since it is typically caused by poor sanitation, prevention involves sterilizing cutting equipment before using it on the plant. A five-minute soak in solution containing 1 part household bleach and 3 parts of water and rinsing with clear water afterward should do the trick. Dip the tools and rinse them before each cut made to the orchid.
Southern Blight
If the lower part of the orchid's stems turn yellow as well as its leaves, suspect southern blight, a fungal infection. Treat southern blight with a systemic fungicide containing thiophanate methyl. Mix 1/2 teaspoon of the fungicide in 1 gallon of water and pour it over the soil. Reapply the fungicide in four weeks. Prevent southern blight on your orchids by providing increased air circulation and proper sanitation.
Too Much Light
Most of the more than 25,000 species of orchids grow in tropical forests, shaded by the canopy. Although some species thrive in bright sunlight, others will experience yellow foliage. This will eventually drop off the plant. To avoid the problem in the future, provide the orchid with indirect sunlight by setting it on the sill of an east-facing window or within two feet of a south-facing window. If you know that your particular orchid species requires medium sunlight, place it on the sill of a west-facing window or within one foot of a window that receives southern exposure.
Cold Temperatures
Orchids are hardy outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on species. Outside of the tropics, most are grown indoors, however, where they do fine with typical indoor temperatures. Some orchids, such as phalaenopsis (Phalaenopsis spp.), hardy in USDA zones 10 through 12, are sensitive to temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and leaves will turn yellow. Again, these leaves will naturally fall from the plant. Adjust the temperature until you find one that suits the orchid best, between 60 and 80 degrees during the daytime and 50 to 55 degrees at night.
Bacterial Rot
Bacterial soft and brown rot are orchid diseases that turn the orchid's leaves yellow before they darken to black. Treat the infection by removing affected parts of the plant with sterile tools and then spraying the orchid until it is wet with a broad-range virucide, bactericide and fungicide, such as Physan 20. Use 2 teaspoons in 1 gallon of water. Repeat the spray once a month to prevent further occurrences. Keeping the foliage dry and increasing air circulation around the orchid also helps prevent this infection.
Fusarium Wilt
This disease can be distinguished from other orchid diseases by the wrinkled or shriveled appearance of the yellow leaves. Since it is typically caused by poor sanitation, prevention involves sterilizing cutting equipment before using it on the plant. A five-minute soak in solution containing 1 part household bleach and 3 parts of water and rinsing with clear water afterward should do the trick. Dip the tools and rinse them before each cut made to the orchid.
Southern Blight
If the lower part of the orchid's stems turn yellow as well as its leaves, suspect southern blight, a fungal infection. Treat southern blight with a systemic fungicide containing thiophanate methyl. Mix 1/2 teaspoon of the fungicide in 1 gallon of water and pour it over the soil. Reapply the fungicide in four weeks. Prevent southern blight on your orchids by providing increased air circulation and proper sanitation.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are notoriously expensive and temperamental plants, and many orchid owners are intimidated at the prospect of reproducing their orchids. However, orchids are quite hardy and can be reproduced easily. Reproducing your orchid can benefit the overall health of the plant, encouraging new growth. With the right preparation, you can use the division method to reproduce your orchids yourself in an afternoon.
Division
Step 1
Reproduce your orchid during the early spring, just after new growth has become visible on the plant. This gives the divided plants ample time to recover from the stress of division.
Step 2
Remove the orchid from its pot, and examine the roots. The roots should cover the outside of the growing medium and should be white in color. If the roots are not white, you may be over watering your orchid.
Step 3
Grasp the base of the plant, where the plant meets the soil, and gently tug the plant apart into two equal halves. When the halves begin to separate, check the soil in each half for bulbs. To ensure flowering the following season, each half should contain at least three bulbs. Each half should also include some new growth.
Step 4
Pull the halves completely apart, and use a pair of sharp gardening shears or a sharp knife to cut any roots connecting the two halves. Remove the old soil from around the roots on each half.
Repotting
Step 5
Trim the roots to a length of 4 inches, and save the white root trimmings for use in repotting. Completely remove any brown or soggy roots, and discard. These roots may spread rot in the new plants.
Step 6
Place several pieces of bark or polystyrene in the bottom of each new pot to encourage drainage. Gently ease each divided plant into its new pot, positioning the plant so that the new growth is at the center of the pot. Pack the sides of the pot with the trimmed white roots, and fill around the roots with orchid compost. Press the compost into place so that the plant is secure in the pot.
Step 7
Soak the plants from above, and allow them to drain for two hours. Soak the plants once more, and do not water again for two weeks. Keep the plants in a shady area for the first two months after repotting.
Division
Step 1
Reproduce your orchid during the early spring, just after new growth has become visible on the plant. This gives the divided plants ample time to recover from the stress of division.
Step 2
Remove the orchid from its pot, and examine the roots. The roots should cover the outside of the growing medium and should be white in color. If the roots are not white, you may be over watering your orchid.
Step 3
Grasp the base of the plant, where the plant meets the soil, and gently tug the plant apart into two equal halves. When the halves begin to separate, check the soil in each half for bulbs. To ensure flowering the following season, each half should contain at least three bulbs. Each half should also include some new growth.
Step 4
Pull the halves completely apart, and use a pair of sharp gardening shears or a sharp knife to cut any roots connecting the two halves. Remove the old soil from around the roots on each half.
Repotting
Step 5
Trim the roots to a length of 4 inches, and save the white root trimmings for use in repotting. Completely remove any brown or soggy roots, and discard. These roots may spread rot in the new plants.
Step 6
Place several pieces of bark or polystyrene in the bottom of each new pot to encourage drainage. Gently ease each divided plant into its new pot, positioning the plant so that the new growth is at the center of the pot. Pack the sides of the pot with the trimmed white roots, and fill around the roots with orchid compost. Press the compost into place so that the plant is secure in the pot.
Step 7
Soak the plants from above, and allow them to drain for two hours. Soak the plants once more, and do not water again for two weeks. Keep the plants in a shady area for the first two months after repotting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are tropical plants that exist in more than 25,000 varieties. They grow in a wide range of environments, from arctic tundras to rain forests, writes Dr. Leonard Perry, a University of Vermont horticulturist. Some types grow in soil, while others grow on the sides of trees, taking their nourishment from the air and moisture around the trees, as well as from bits of decaying organic matter. As with all plants, orchids require nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to grow. Although they require little fertilizing, providing proper nutrients will help them to thrive, and you can make your own orchid fertilizer.
Step 1
Place ½ lb. used coffee grounds into a 5-gallon bucket. Fill the bucket with water and allow the mixture to sit overnight. Filter out the grounds with cheesecloth. Discard the grounds, keeping the liquid.
Step 2
Heat 10 broken eggshells in a 200-degree oven for 30 minutes to kill bacteria. Allow the eggshells to cool. Grind them in a food processor, breaking them up to a fine powder if possible. Place the ground up shells in a jar with water and allow them to soak for five days. Filter out the powder with cheesecloth and discard it. The remaining water is a rich source of calcium for plants.
Step 3
Dilute 1 tsp. plain molasses in 1 pint water and mix vigorously. Molasses will give the plant additional potassium for essential growth processes.
Step 4
Add equal amounts of coffee grounds water, eggshell water and molasses water to a 5-gallon bucket.
Step 5
Mix the ingredients thoroughly.
Step 6
Dilute the solution by half and apply to the orchid growing medium in place of watering. Fertilize monthly with the mixture. Store any left over mixture in covered containers in a refrigerator
Step 1
Place ½ lb. used coffee grounds into a 5-gallon bucket. Fill the bucket with water and allow the mixture to sit overnight. Filter out the grounds with cheesecloth. Discard the grounds, keeping the liquid.
Step 2
Heat 10 broken eggshells in a 200-degree oven for 30 minutes to kill bacteria. Allow the eggshells to cool. Grind them in a food processor, breaking them up to a fine powder if possible. Place the ground up shells in a jar with water and allow them to soak for five days. Filter out the powder with cheesecloth and discard it. The remaining water is a rich source of calcium for plants.
Step 3
Dilute 1 tsp. plain molasses in 1 pint water and mix vigorously. Molasses will give the plant additional potassium for essential growth processes.
Step 4
Add equal amounts of coffee grounds water, eggshell water and molasses water to a 5-gallon bucket.
Step 5
Mix the ingredients thoroughly.
Step 6
Dilute the solution by half and apply to the orchid growing medium in place of watering. Fertilize monthly with the mixture. Store any left over mixture in covered containers in a refrigerator
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
With over 25,000 species of orchids, you're likely to find a type of orchid that fits your color and size preferences. Because there are so many types of orchids, including plants that bloom once a year and others that can bloom several times, it is difficult to determine exactly when orchids in general are "in season." Keep in mind that outdoor-planted orchid bloom times may vary slightly from norms, based on sunlight and your local temperature.
Facts
A winter walk through the nursery or home center might give you the impression that orchids are only in season at that time. However according to an article from Colorado State University, "with proper selection" you can have blooming orchids in your home yearlong. For example, phalaenopsis — sometimes called the moth orchid — tends to bloom only once a year, generally after two months of decreased temperatures and slightly decreased light. Extending the dormancy period of your orchid by reducing the water and light it receives may extend periods of blooming and let you stagger blooms throughout the year.
Length of Bloom
The length of bloom time for your orchid depends upon the type of orchid you have. For example, Phalaenopsis often lasts six to 12 weeks. Lady Slippers last about six weeks. Cattleya blooms often last just a few weeks. Often, the care you give the orchid and the conditions it is kept in determine how long the plant blooms.
Care
Keep your orchids blooming for as long as possible by using a blossom-booster fertilizer as soon as the flower spikes, continuing through the time that the last bud opens fully. Since orchids thrive in humid conditions, mist the stems and leaves daily or move the plant near other potted plants to give it more moisture. Position your orchid in a south-facing window where it receives adequate indirect light. Most orchids have medium green leaves when they receive proper light levels.
Considerations
When buying growing orchids at the home center or floral department, look for plants that are only partially blooming, suggests the Argus Orchids website. Partially blooming plants with about half their blooms open assure you longer-lasting bloom times in your home; heavy blooming plants are often on the downside of growth and blooming.
Facts
A winter walk through the nursery or home center might give you the impression that orchids are only in season at that time. However according to an article from Colorado State University, "with proper selection" you can have blooming orchids in your home yearlong. For example, phalaenopsis — sometimes called the moth orchid — tends to bloom only once a year, generally after two months of decreased temperatures and slightly decreased light. Extending the dormancy period of your orchid by reducing the water and light it receives may extend periods of blooming and let you stagger blooms throughout the year.
Length of Bloom
The length of bloom time for your orchid depends upon the type of orchid you have. For example, Phalaenopsis often lasts six to 12 weeks. Lady Slippers last about six weeks. Cattleya blooms often last just a few weeks. Often, the care you give the orchid and the conditions it is kept in determine how long the plant blooms.
Care
Keep your orchids blooming for as long as possible by using a blossom-booster fertilizer as soon as the flower spikes, continuing through the time that the last bud opens fully. Since orchids thrive in humid conditions, mist the stems and leaves daily or move the plant near other potted plants to give it more moisture. Position your orchid in a south-facing window where it receives adequate indirect light. Most orchids have medium green leaves when they receive proper light levels.
Considerations
When buying growing orchids at the home center or floral department, look for plants that are only partially blooming, suggests the Argus Orchids website. Partially blooming plants with about half their blooms open assure you longer-lasting bloom times in your home; heavy blooming plants are often on the downside of growth and blooming.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are known for their beautiful, aromatic flowers. They are originally from tropical regions, but can grow in most places with the proper care. Like other plants, you can clone orchids through a method called propagation.
Step 1
Mix a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water and use it to clean the razor blade or knife you're using to cut the orchid stem and the pots that the new orchids are being planted in.
Step 2
Put on clean gloves or wash your hands to avoid contaminating the orchid.
Step 3
Cut a 12-inch-long stem from the plant, then cut the 12-inch section into smaller parts that are 3 to 4 inches long. When cutting the stem into smaller sections, make sure that each one has at least one dormant bud on it.
Step 4
Lay the cut stems onto damp sphagnum moss. Move the stems and moss to a place that is shaded and humid, leaving them there until small plants begin to emerge from the buds.
Step 5
Place standard orchid compost into the pots, then plant the new orchids into the pots.
Step 6
Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer to the soil.
Step 7
Place the plants into a humid, well-lit area where they will receive 12 to 14 hours of light every day. Water the orchids once a week.
Step 1
Mix a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water and use it to clean the razor blade or knife you're using to cut the orchid stem and the pots that the new orchids are being planted in.
Step 2
Put on clean gloves or wash your hands to avoid contaminating the orchid.
Step 3
Cut a 12-inch-long stem from the plant, then cut the 12-inch section into smaller parts that are 3 to 4 inches long. When cutting the stem into smaller sections, make sure that each one has at least one dormant bud on it.
Step 4
Lay the cut stems onto damp sphagnum moss. Move the stems and moss to a place that is shaded and humid, leaving them there until small plants begin to emerge from the buds.
Step 5
Place standard orchid compost into the pots, then plant the new orchids into the pots.
Step 6
Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer to the soil.
Step 7
Place the plants into a humid, well-lit area where they will receive 12 to 14 hours of light every day. Water the orchids once a week.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Pet dogs and cats tend to get into things they shouldn't, whether indoors or out. Among the most unnerving concerns is knowing which plants in the yard or house are toxic to your furry companions. In the United States, native orchids grow outdoors in sunny fields and woodlands and in shade gardens. A wide array of tropical orchids are also grown as houseplants, and also used as cut flowers in bouquets. Generally speaking, orchids are not poisonous to cats or dogs.
Types
lovers. Over the centuries, both orchids and dogs have been extensively bred to create new breeds or genetic lines. While 25,000 orchid species are known worldwide, at least 100,000 hybrids or grexes are registered. The genetic lineages of modern orchid hybrids are complex and confusing. While orchids are not considered toxic to dogs and cats, there always is a chance that an orchid hybrid carries that one odd gene that creates a harmful compound in leaves or flowers that could cause sickness in a pet.
Plant Lists
The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals currently publishes extensive lists of both known toxic and nontoxic plants for dogs and cats on its website. The lists are nonexhaustive, and include only the most commonly encountered plants in the United States. As of 2011, no orchids are listed as being toxic for either dogs or cats, with several orchids explicitly listed on the nontoxic list for both animals.
Prevention
animal -- its body mass -- and the amount of plant eaten affects the reaction seen. Smaller animals need to eat less plant material to be affected. Sometimes the fresh greenery upsets the stomach and leads to usual coughing and vomiting of hairballs. Even though there is some evidence from the ASPCA that most orchids aren't toxic to these critters, not all orchids are represented or tested. If possible, discourage or train your dog or cat to not eat orchids. Your first reaction should be identify the plant eaten, to be certain it truly is an orchid, especially if hiking in the wild. Assume the orchid isn't harmful, but monitor the pet and watch for symptoms of sickness such as foaming of the mouth, change in demeanor or other behavioral changes. Contact your veterinarian if symptoms arise and you suspect any plant was eaten.
Plant Names
The name "orchid" is not specific unless the plant is in the orchid family, Orchidaceae. Many non-orchid-family plants may be colloquially called orchids or superficially resemble an orchid. Plants that have a common name of orchid but are not in the orchid family may be toxic to dogs or cats. It depends on the precise identity of the plant. For example, the orchid tree is not a real orchid, but a member of the legume family, Fabaceae. Conversely, not all true orchids are commonly called orchids, but by more ambiguous names such as lady slippers or lady's tresses. This can add to the anxiety associated with a family dog or cat eating an unknown plant, or one that somebody referred to as an orchid or looks like an orchid.
Types
lovers. Over the centuries, both orchids and dogs have been extensively bred to create new breeds or genetic lines. While 25,000 orchid species are known worldwide, at least 100,000 hybrids or grexes are registered. The genetic lineages of modern orchid hybrids are complex and confusing. While orchids are not considered toxic to dogs and cats, there always is a chance that an orchid hybrid carries that one odd gene that creates a harmful compound in leaves or flowers that could cause sickness in a pet.
Plant Lists
The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals currently publishes extensive lists of both known toxic and nontoxic plants for dogs and cats on its website. The lists are nonexhaustive, and include only the most commonly encountered plants in the United States. As of 2011, no orchids are listed as being toxic for either dogs or cats, with several orchids explicitly listed on the nontoxic list for both animals.
Prevention
animal -- its body mass -- and the amount of plant eaten affects the reaction seen. Smaller animals need to eat less plant material to be affected. Sometimes the fresh greenery upsets the stomach and leads to usual coughing and vomiting of hairballs. Even though there is some evidence from the ASPCA that most orchids aren't toxic to these critters, not all orchids are represented or tested. If possible, discourage or train your dog or cat to not eat orchids. Your first reaction should be identify the plant eaten, to be certain it truly is an orchid, especially if hiking in the wild. Assume the orchid isn't harmful, but monitor the pet and watch for symptoms of sickness such as foaming of the mouth, change in demeanor or other behavioral changes. Contact your veterinarian if symptoms arise and you suspect any plant was eaten.
Plant Names
The name "orchid" is not specific unless the plant is in the orchid family, Orchidaceae. Many non-orchid-family plants may be colloquially called orchids or superficially resemble an orchid. Plants that have a common name of orchid but are not in the orchid family may be toxic to dogs or cats. It depends on the precise identity of the plant. For example, the orchid tree is not a real orchid, but a member of the legume family, Fabaceae. Conversely, not all true orchids are commonly called orchids, but by more ambiguous names such as lady slippers or lady's tresses. This can add to the anxiety associated with a family dog or cat eating an unknown plant, or one that somebody referred to as an orchid or looks like an orchid.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Confederate roses grow on bush-like trees that are quite unlike most standard rose bushes. These plants grow best in the southern states of the U.S., which is where they got their name. The blooms are born in a bright white, and gradually fade into pink and then to blue. They resemble hibiscus flowers more than standard roses. These rose bushes are very successful at growing from cuttings. Take a cutting from an established Confederate rose bush and grow your own.
Step 1
Take your rose cutting from an established plant, at the end of the growing season in fall. Cut 12-inch lengths of rose cane, using sharp pruning shears.
Step 2
Cut the leaves off the Confederate rose cane, leaving only the two last leaves on the end of the stem. Cut the leaves at their base, but do not cut into the stem itself.
Step 3
Fill a quart jar with water. Place the rose stem in the jar, root side down. Set the jar in a sunny window. Roots should form on the stem within a couple weeks.
Step 4
Transplant the newly rooted Confederate rose into new pots when the roots have grown to about 2 inches. Use 6-inch pots, filled with a rich potting soil. Keep the rose in the sun as often as possible, to increase its growth. At this stage, water the roses once a week to keep the soil moist but not wet.
Step 5
Keep the rose bush inside and treat it as one of your houseplants until April, when it will be ready to go outdoors into your rose garden.
Step 1
Take your rose cutting from an established plant, at the end of the growing season in fall. Cut 12-inch lengths of rose cane, using sharp pruning shears.
Step 2
Cut the leaves off the Confederate rose cane, leaving only the two last leaves on the end of the stem. Cut the leaves at their base, but do not cut into the stem itself.
Step 3
Fill a quart jar with water. Place the rose stem in the jar, root side down. Set the jar in a sunny window. Roots should form on the stem within a couple weeks.
Step 4
Transplant the newly rooted Confederate rose into new pots when the roots have grown to about 2 inches. Use 6-inch pots, filled with a rich potting soil. Keep the rose in the sun as often as possible, to increase its growth. At this stage, water the roses once a week to keep the soil moist but not wet.
Step 5
Keep the rose bush inside and treat it as one of your houseplants until April, when it will be ready to go outdoors into your rose garden.
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