文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
These aquatic plants are difficult to identify to species level because the leaf shape varies with water depth andflow rate. Some starworts are annuals and others are perennials.
Distribution
Common Water Starwort is illustrated here. In Wales, where this specimen was photographed, the River Teifi around Lampeter has several other startwort species including Callitriche hamulata, Intermediate Water Starwort.
Callitriche stagnalis is widespread also throughout the rest of Britain and Ireland and occurs as a native plant in most parts of mainland Europe and in northern Africa. In North America Common Starwort is an introduced species, first discovered in the New York area in 1861, and is now a nuisance invasive weed in parts of the USA and Canada..
Habitat and Blooming Times
Starworts of various kinds occur mainly in shallow (depth to about a metre) static and slow- to moderately-fast-flowing water.
The green flowers of Callitriche stagnalis, which are minute, appear at the bases of the leaves from May to August, and tiny, four-segmented fruits follow. It is mainly by examination of the shape of the fruits, which in the case of Common Starwort are nearly round. (Without their fruits, the various Callitriche species are very difficult to separate.)
Etymology
Callitriche, the genus name, comes from the Greek words From the Greek kalli- meaning beautiful, and -thrix which means hair. Callitriche is therefore a reference to the hair-like stems of starwort plants.
The specific epithet stagnalis is, as you might expect, a habitat reference: this species often occurs in stagnant (standing or stationary) water, although it is also probably the most common of the starworts that grow in slow-flowing streams and ditches in Britain and Ireland.
Distribution
Common Water Starwort is illustrated here. In Wales, where this specimen was photographed, the River Teifi around Lampeter has several other startwort species including Callitriche hamulata, Intermediate Water Starwort.
Callitriche stagnalis is widespread also throughout the rest of Britain and Ireland and occurs as a native plant in most parts of mainland Europe and in northern Africa. In North America Common Starwort is an introduced species, first discovered in the New York area in 1861, and is now a nuisance invasive weed in parts of the USA and Canada..
Habitat and Blooming Times
Starworts of various kinds occur mainly in shallow (depth to about a metre) static and slow- to moderately-fast-flowing water.
The green flowers of Callitriche stagnalis, which are minute, appear at the bases of the leaves from May to August, and tiny, four-segmented fruits follow. It is mainly by examination of the shape of the fruits, which in the case of Common Starwort are nearly round. (Without their fruits, the various Callitriche species are very difficult to separate.)
Etymology
Callitriche, the genus name, comes from the Greek words From the Greek kalli- meaning beautiful, and -thrix which means hair. Callitriche is therefore a reference to the hair-like stems of starwort plants.
The specific epithet stagnalis is, as you might expect, a habitat reference: this species often occurs in stagnant (standing or stationary) water, although it is also probably the most common of the starworts that grow in slow-flowing streams and ditches in Britain and Ireland.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
Gravelly sea shores are the natural habitat of many members of the family Brassicaceae including Sea Rocket. Changing the family name of this family of plants from Cruciferae to Brassicaceae (Cabbage plants) has done nothing for a group that already got quite a bad press. (Oilseed Rape, which causes allergic reactions in even normally healthy individuals, is an example.) It is therefore important to remember that some of our most loved garden plants and wildflowers are also 'cabbage's - Aubrieta deltoidea, for instance.
Identification
This coastal member of the mustard family is a pioneer species, colonising bare sand and shingle close to the splash zone where few other plants are able to survive. To cope with the shifting sand, Sea Rocket puts down a long taproot that branches and helps stabilise the sand.
Thick fleshy leaves to help this plant to retain moisture, while it low growing form helps it cope with the impact of sand blown by strong coastal winds.
The four-petalled flowers, 10 to 15mm across, are mauve, pinkish or occasionally almost pure white.
Similar Species
Related species such as black mustard, rape and wild turnip are all very similar in form, having four flower petals and leaves with a bluish tinge; they too are commonly found near the coast but unl;ike Sea Rocket their flowers are yellow.
Identification
This coastal member of the mustard family is a pioneer species, colonising bare sand and shingle close to the splash zone where few other plants are able to survive. To cope with the shifting sand, Sea Rocket puts down a long taproot that branches and helps stabilise the sand.
Thick fleshy leaves to help this plant to retain moisture, while it low growing form helps it cope with the impact of sand blown by strong coastal winds.
The four-petalled flowers, 10 to 15mm across, are mauve, pinkish or occasionally almost pure white.
Similar Species
Related species such as black mustard, rape and wild turnip are all very similar in form, having four flower petals and leaves with a bluish tinge; they too are commonly found near the coast but unl;ike Sea Rocket their flowers are yellow.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Astragalus tragacantha ssp. vicentinus - is one of the rare plants to be found in Cape St. Vincent Natural Park (Parque Nacional de Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina) in the Algarve region of Portugal.
Sometimes known as Astragalus massiliensis this plant is recorded from southern France, Northern Spain and other parts of the western Mediterranean region. It is a coastal species and grows in sandy soils among scrub.
At Cape St. Vincent this plant is found along the roadsides towards the lighthouse. It is an uncomfortable candidate for photography as it grows on stony ground among thorny shrubs and plants. It is also becoming harder to find as much of its habitat is being taken over as alternative car parking areas for visitors to this iconic part of Europe. Cape St. Vincent is Europe's most south-westerly point and attracts tourists by the coachload in the summer months.
Astragalus tragacantha flowers in March and early April. It forms low-growing pincushion-shaped plants. The flowers appear white from a distance, but on closer inspection are tinged with purple.
Sometimes known as Astragalus massiliensis this plant is recorded from southern France, Northern Spain and other parts of the western Mediterranean region. It is a coastal species and grows in sandy soils among scrub.
At Cape St. Vincent this plant is found along the roadsides towards the lighthouse. It is an uncomfortable candidate for photography as it grows on stony ground among thorny shrubs and plants. It is also becoming harder to find as much of its habitat is being taken over as alternative car parking areas for visitors to this iconic part of Europe. Cape St. Vincent is Europe's most south-westerly point and attracts tourists by the coachload in the summer months.
Astragalus tragacantha flowers in March and early April. It forms low-growing pincushion-shaped plants. The flowers appear white from a distance, but on closer inspection are tinged with purple.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Many cacti can be successful houseplants. All are succulent plants, and they have two basic kinds of growth. Forest cacti are epiphytes that grow in trees and have flattened, green, leafy-looking stems with few or no spines. Desert cacti, those of dry, hot climates, have thick stems and usually many spines. They can be globular, cylindrical, columnar or have paddle-shaped stems. An indoor forest cactus requires care different from the care an indoor desert cactus needs.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus plants (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are epiphytes that grow naturally in trees in Brazil. They absorb moisture and nutrients from debris that gets caught in the tree branches. Commonly grown as houseplants, they can also be grown outdoors in pots in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, as long as they are brought indoors if the weather gets too cold. They can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but their stems will be severely damaged.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Flaunting 1-foot night-blooming flowers, dragon fruit plants (Hylocereus and Selenicereus spp.) more closely resemble the princess in a fairy tale than the monster. The "dragon" in their name actually refers to the dark pink, yellow, or green scales which protect their fruits. With white, pink, red or magenta pulp dotted with black seeds, those fruits ripen one to two months after the plants bloom. Climbing cacti with aerial roots, dragon fruits can live outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 12 and be cultivated as houseplants elsewhere.
Cut and Dried
Dragon fruit plants are usually started from cuttings rather than seeds, since cuttings flower more quickly. Select three or four sections of stem that are 6 to 15 inches long. When severing the sections from the mother plant, cut at a slight slant. Allow the cuttings to lie, uncovered, in a cool, dark place for a week until their cut edges have hardened. Then insert the bases of the cuttings about 2 inches deep into a 1-gallon pot filled with slightly damp cactus soil, packing the soil tightly around them until they stand upright. Keep the pot in a bright spot out of direct sun, misting the cuttings every other day, until new growth indicates that they have rooted. Then move the cuttings into partial sun, shifting them gradually into full sun about four months after their rooting.
Stakeout
Wait until the cuttings are at least four months old before planting them outdoors. Choose a site in full sun near a sturdy support. Commercial growers frequently use posts that are 4 to 6 inches in diameter and about 5 feet high after they have been set in the ground. Plant three or four rooted cuttings around the stake, replacing about one-third of the soil with composted manure and another third with sand. Tie the cuttings to the stake with garden twine, water them well and mulch them with several inches of chopped bark, keeping the mulch at least 8 inches away from their stems. Continue to water the plant as necessary, making sure it gets at least 1/2 to 1 inch of water per week. Rake the mulch back to strew about 4 pounds of composted manure and 1/4 pound of 6-6-6 granular organic fertilizer around the stake in June. Repeat the 1/4-pound fertilizer application once every two months until October.
Go to Pot
To grow a dragon fruit plant indoors, fill a 16- to 18-inch-diameter pot with cactus potting soil, and embed a heavy stake in its center. After planting three or four rooted cuttings around that stake, tie them to it and and water them thoroughly. Place the pot near a sunny window and water it again only when the surface of its soil feels dry to the touch. Fertilize an indoor plant monthly with 10-10-5 liquid plant food in April and May, mixing 1 tablespoon of the plant food per gallon of water. Afterwards, feed it monthly with 0-10-10 liquid plant food from June until October, using the same amount. Don't fertilize the plant at all from November through March.
Train Your Dragon
As the cuttings grow, either indoors or outdoors, prune off all their side-shoots until their stems reach the top of the stake. Then snip off the tips of those stems so that they will branch out, with those branches dangling down from the stake's crown like a head of hair. After a mature plant has finished flowering in the fall, prune out weak or dead growth and the branches that bloomed that year, allowing new ones to dangle down to replace them.
Cut and Dried
Dragon fruit plants are usually started from cuttings rather than seeds, since cuttings flower more quickly. Select three or four sections of stem that are 6 to 15 inches long. When severing the sections from the mother plant, cut at a slight slant. Allow the cuttings to lie, uncovered, in a cool, dark place for a week until their cut edges have hardened. Then insert the bases of the cuttings about 2 inches deep into a 1-gallon pot filled with slightly damp cactus soil, packing the soil tightly around them until they stand upright. Keep the pot in a bright spot out of direct sun, misting the cuttings every other day, until new growth indicates that they have rooted. Then move the cuttings into partial sun, shifting them gradually into full sun about four months after their rooting.
Stakeout
Wait until the cuttings are at least four months old before planting them outdoors. Choose a site in full sun near a sturdy support. Commercial growers frequently use posts that are 4 to 6 inches in diameter and about 5 feet high after they have been set in the ground. Plant three or four rooted cuttings around the stake, replacing about one-third of the soil with composted manure and another third with sand. Tie the cuttings to the stake with garden twine, water them well and mulch them with several inches of chopped bark, keeping the mulch at least 8 inches away from their stems. Continue to water the plant as necessary, making sure it gets at least 1/2 to 1 inch of water per week. Rake the mulch back to strew about 4 pounds of composted manure and 1/4 pound of 6-6-6 granular organic fertilizer around the stake in June. Repeat the 1/4-pound fertilizer application once every two months until October.
Go to Pot
To grow a dragon fruit plant indoors, fill a 16- to 18-inch-diameter pot with cactus potting soil, and embed a heavy stake in its center. After planting three or four rooted cuttings around that stake, tie them to it and and water them thoroughly. Place the pot near a sunny window and water it again only when the surface of its soil feels dry to the touch. Fertilize an indoor plant monthly with 10-10-5 liquid plant food in April and May, mixing 1 tablespoon of the plant food per gallon of water. Afterwards, feed it monthly with 0-10-10 liquid plant food from June until October, using the same amount. Don't fertilize the plant at all from November through March.
Train Your Dragon
As the cuttings grow, either indoors or outdoors, prune off all their side-shoots until their stems reach the top of the stake. Then snip off the tips of those stems so that they will branch out, with those branches dangling down from the stake's crown like a head of hair. After a mature plant has finished flowering in the fall, prune out weak or dead growth and the branches that bloomed that year, allowing new ones to dangle down to replace them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas Cacti are notoriously difficult to root. This article might help you in rooting pieces for new plants or just rooting another in the same pot with the parent plant.
Root A Christmas Cactus House Plant
Step 1
Sometimes a large Christmas cactus will start to fall apart. In this case you can take the large parts that have fallen apart from the big plant and root them. You can also try cutting a large part off of a big cactus and rooting it. In any case, you need a big piece of cactus to root a new plant. The picture of the cactus is one that I rooted. It is in the pot with the parent plant. The piece I rooted is about 10" wide and 7" tall. Smaller piece usually don't root.
Step 2
Place the piece of cactus in a really good potting soil for indoor plants. Use new, store bought, potting soil. Place the piece into the pot with the soil and lightly pack the soil around the stem until the piece will stand up on it's own. Always take a cutting that has at least three leaves for the stem. Bury at least one leaf under the soil. The stem needs to be long enough to grow roots from.
Step 3
Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Christmas cactus are succulents and not a true cacti. They grown on the floor of forests and in tree hollows and arms where it is moist. So don't let the soil dry out completely.
Step 4
The cutting will wilt and shrivel and look like it is going to die. This always happens. The cutting might die, but just keep caring for it.
Step 5
When the cutting finally starts to take root, it may have been two months or so. You will notice that the stalk or stem has greened up. The outer leaves will still be shriveled and wilted. Just keep watering the plant. Just leave the wilted leaves alone even though you may want to cut them off. The leaves are alive and as the root system grows they will green up and puff up into healthy leaves.
Root A Christmas Cactus House Plant
Step 1
Sometimes a large Christmas cactus will start to fall apart. In this case you can take the large parts that have fallen apart from the big plant and root them. You can also try cutting a large part off of a big cactus and rooting it. In any case, you need a big piece of cactus to root a new plant. The picture of the cactus is one that I rooted. It is in the pot with the parent plant. The piece I rooted is about 10" wide and 7" tall. Smaller piece usually don't root.
Step 2
Place the piece of cactus in a really good potting soil for indoor plants. Use new, store bought, potting soil. Place the piece into the pot with the soil and lightly pack the soil around the stem until the piece will stand up on it's own. Always take a cutting that has at least three leaves for the stem. Bury at least one leaf under the soil. The stem needs to be long enough to grow roots from.
Step 3
Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Christmas cactus are succulents and not a true cacti. They grown on the floor of forests and in tree hollows and arms where it is moist. So don't let the soil dry out completely.
Step 4
The cutting will wilt and shrivel and look like it is going to die. This always happens. The cutting might die, but just keep caring for it.
Step 5
When the cutting finally starts to take root, it may have been two months or so. You will notice that the stalk or stem has greened up. The outer leaves will still be shriveled and wilted. Just keep watering the plant. Just leave the wilted leaves alone even though you may want to cut them off. The leaves are alive and as the root system grows they will green up and puff up into healthy leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Succulents are often exotic-looking plants with thick, fleshy leaves and stems designed to store water and help the plants thrive in warm, dry areas. Succulents grow throughout the world and include such diverse plants as jade (Crassula argentea), which grows as a perennial outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, and greenii hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum subspecies greenii), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. Although certain succulents must be moved indoors during the winter months in some U.S. locations, many thrive outdoors in even very cold temperatures when they receive proper care.
Plant Winter-Hardy Varieties
Choose winter-hardy succulents for the easiest winter care. Those plants include greenii hens and chicks, hardy ice plant (Delosperma cooperi, USDA zones 5 through 11) and 'Golden Sword' yucca (Yucca filamentosa 'Golden Sword', USDA zones 4 through 9). Although these succulents may wither or change color during cold weather, that is normal, and you will not have to provide them with winter protection.
Keep the Soil Dry
In northern U.S. states, succulents need far less water during the winter months than they do in summer. Stop fertilizing and watering succulents in late fall to prevent hydrated plants from freezing during winter. During cold months, keep their soil as dry as possible, and ensure your succulents receive enough air circulation to prevent dampness. If the soil around your succulents appears wet, then add sand to the soil to keep the plants' roots dry. A mixture that is one-third loam, one-third sand and one-third peat moss is reliable.
Protect Them from Frost
If freezing temperatures are expected, cover the succulents with fabric, such as an old bed sheet, or with a frost cloth, which is available from plant nurseries. Completely cover the succulents with the material, and place cinder blocks or other heavy objects on the material's edges to keep it in place. Avoid using a plastic cover, which prevents air circulation and makes sunlight too intense for plants.
As soon as the danger of frost passes, remove the material to encourage air circulation and provide sunlight.
Relocate Them as Needed
If your succulents are in pots, then place them in the most ideal conditions possible for cold weather. For example, put the potted plants in a sunny location under a porch or eaves if winters in your area are rainy. If temperatures become cooler than normal, place the container succulents near boulders, shrubs or walls that face south or west; those structures and plants retain heat.
Another option is to move potted succulents indoors to help them thrive during frosty weeks or months. Place them in front of a bright, sunny window, and water their soil to prevent the plants from withering; water thoroughly, until water comes out the pots' bottom drain holes. Allow the soil to dry out completely before you water again.
Do not fertilize the succulents during the winter months.
Plant Winter-Hardy Varieties
Choose winter-hardy succulents for the easiest winter care. Those plants include greenii hens and chicks, hardy ice plant (Delosperma cooperi, USDA zones 5 through 11) and 'Golden Sword' yucca (Yucca filamentosa 'Golden Sword', USDA zones 4 through 9). Although these succulents may wither or change color during cold weather, that is normal, and you will not have to provide them with winter protection.
Keep the Soil Dry
In northern U.S. states, succulents need far less water during the winter months than they do in summer. Stop fertilizing and watering succulents in late fall to prevent hydrated plants from freezing during winter. During cold months, keep their soil as dry as possible, and ensure your succulents receive enough air circulation to prevent dampness. If the soil around your succulents appears wet, then add sand to the soil to keep the plants' roots dry. A mixture that is one-third loam, one-third sand and one-third peat moss is reliable.
Protect Them from Frost
If freezing temperatures are expected, cover the succulents with fabric, such as an old bed sheet, or with a frost cloth, which is available from plant nurseries. Completely cover the succulents with the material, and place cinder blocks or other heavy objects on the material's edges to keep it in place. Avoid using a plastic cover, which prevents air circulation and makes sunlight too intense for plants.
As soon as the danger of frost passes, remove the material to encourage air circulation and provide sunlight.
Relocate Them as Needed
If your succulents are in pots, then place them in the most ideal conditions possible for cold weather. For example, put the potted plants in a sunny location under a porch or eaves if winters in your area are rainy. If temperatures become cooler than normal, place the container succulents near boulders, shrubs or walls that face south or west; those structures and plants retain heat.
Another option is to move potted succulents indoors to help them thrive during frosty weeks or months. Place them in front of a bright, sunny window, and water their soil to prevent the plants from withering; water thoroughly, until water comes out the pots' bottom drain holes. Allow the soil to dry out completely before you water again.
Do not fertilize the succulents during the winter months.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Agave plants (Agave spp.) thrive in desert gardens and in sandy soils with little moisture. They grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, depending on the variety. Although agaves die after flowering, they have a long flowering cycle and can live for eight to 60 years. These desert succulents transplant well and tolerate disturbance, so you can move the plants to a new area at any time during the spring and summer growing season.
Safety First
Most agave varieties have sharp spines along the edges of the leaves. The sap is also a common skin irritant and can cause allergic reactions. Before handling the agave, protect your skin and eyes. Heavy leather gloves, long sleeves and long pants provide skin protection. Wear eye protection so sap doesn't get into your eyes. Protecting the plant is also necessary. Disinfect any knives, shears or spade blades you will use to prune and cut through the plant to minimize bacterial soft rot and other disease problems. Wiping them with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol kills any disease pathogens or pests.
Plant Preparation
Small plants, called pups or offsets, often grow up around the base of the main mother plant. Each of these pups grows into a new agave if you separate it from the mother. Cut these off just below the soil surface with a knife or the edge of the spade. Removing the outer leaves of a large agave plant lessens the weight during transplanting and results in a healthier looking plant. Peel the outer ragged leaves off the plant and dispose of them, leaving only the intact, healthy looking rosette of leaves in the center. Tie a string loosely around a remaining leaf on the west side of the agave to mark it, but avoid tying it too tightly and cutting into the leaf.
Digging Right
A shovel lifts the entire plant and keeps you well away from the spiny foliage. Insert the shovel blade into the soil around the outer perimeter of the root zone, working around the plant until the soil is loosened. Slide the shovel under the root system and pry the agave out of the ground. Some roots will break, but this doesn't cause any long-lasting harm. After lifting the agave, dust any exposed wounds with sulfur powder to ward off infection. The wounds on any removed pups also benefit from a sulfur dusting before you replant them.
Transplanting Success
A site with sandy, fast-draining soil that receives all-day sunlight provides the best location for an agave or agave pup. Transplant at the same depth the agave was growing at previously and set it so the string-marked side is facing west. Planting agave so it faces the same direction prevents the side used to shade from sun damage. Spacing requirements vary depending on the agave variety, so leave enough room between plants so they can reach their full size without crowding. If you can't transplant right away, set the agave in a shaded location for two or three days and let any wounds dry over. After planting, cover the agave with a shade cloth to protect it from the direct sunlight as the roots establish in the new site, but remove the cloth as soon as new growth becomes apparent. Watering isn't usually necessary, but you can water just enough so the soil is barely moistened if the soil is completely dry and the plant has resumed growth.
Safety First
Most agave varieties have sharp spines along the edges of the leaves. The sap is also a common skin irritant and can cause allergic reactions. Before handling the agave, protect your skin and eyes. Heavy leather gloves, long sleeves and long pants provide skin protection. Wear eye protection so sap doesn't get into your eyes. Protecting the plant is also necessary. Disinfect any knives, shears or spade blades you will use to prune and cut through the plant to minimize bacterial soft rot and other disease problems. Wiping them with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol kills any disease pathogens or pests.
Plant Preparation
Small plants, called pups or offsets, often grow up around the base of the main mother plant. Each of these pups grows into a new agave if you separate it from the mother. Cut these off just below the soil surface with a knife or the edge of the spade. Removing the outer leaves of a large agave plant lessens the weight during transplanting and results in a healthier looking plant. Peel the outer ragged leaves off the plant and dispose of them, leaving only the intact, healthy looking rosette of leaves in the center. Tie a string loosely around a remaining leaf on the west side of the agave to mark it, but avoid tying it too tightly and cutting into the leaf.
Digging Right
A shovel lifts the entire plant and keeps you well away from the spiny foliage. Insert the shovel blade into the soil around the outer perimeter of the root zone, working around the plant until the soil is loosened. Slide the shovel under the root system and pry the agave out of the ground. Some roots will break, but this doesn't cause any long-lasting harm. After lifting the agave, dust any exposed wounds with sulfur powder to ward off infection. The wounds on any removed pups also benefit from a sulfur dusting before you replant them.
Transplanting Success
A site with sandy, fast-draining soil that receives all-day sunlight provides the best location for an agave or agave pup. Transplant at the same depth the agave was growing at previously and set it so the string-marked side is facing west. Planting agave so it faces the same direction prevents the side used to shade from sun damage. Spacing requirements vary depending on the agave variety, so leave enough room between plants so they can reach their full size without crowding. If you can't transplant right away, set the agave in a shaded location for two or three days and let any wounds dry over. After planting, cover the agave with a shade cloth to protect it from the direct sunlight as the roots establish in the new site, but remove the cloth as soon as new growth becomes apparent. Watering isn't usually necessary, but you can water just enough so the soil is barely moistened if the soil is completely dry and the plant has resumed growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Yucca plants have tall blooming spikes and broad, sword-like leaves. Although native to desert climates, their hardiness and size have made them popular landscaping plants in other regions. If your yucca plants have grown too large for their space, you can cut them back while still maintaining their beauty.
Yucca Growth
Yuccas are drought-resistant and easy to take care of. Yucca plants grow by sending out rhizomes from the main stalk. The rhizomes sprout new baby plants, which is why yucca spreads so efficiently that some people consider it a pest. One way of propagating yuccas is to cut the rhizomes with baby plants from the main root. Dividing yuccas to control their growth works on the same principle. As the yucca plant grows, it's necessary to thin it out by dividing it because the plant can begin to crowd itself with too many clumps packed closely together.
Dividing Yucca
You might be able to divide the yucca plant without digging it up. If you look around the base of the plant, you will see the smaller clumps of baby plants on smaller rhizomes, called offsets. Rhizomes look more like twisted underground branches than roots, and you don't have to be as gentle with them as you do with exposed root systems. Use a saw, shovel or a strong knife, such as a machete, to break the offsets of the main rhizome. Don't be afraid to use force—rhizomes can be quite difficult to break apart, and it's unlikely you'll hurt the main plant.
Propagating Yucca From Divisions
Divide yuccas for propagation in late fall or early winter, when the plant is dormant. If you want to propagate your yucca plant with the divisions, be a little more careful when separating the offsets from the main plant. To better see where the offsets are attached, you should dig up the whole yucca plant. You will still need to use a shovel, saw or strong knife to detach the offshoots from the main stem, but take care to preserve as much of the offset rhizome as possible.
If your yucca plant has grown so large that it needs to be divided, you probably have several viable baby plants there. This means that even if you damage a few offsets, you will have plenty more that can be planted. Before planting the offsets, put them in a cool place to dry off for a few days. Plant them in sandy, well-drained soil. Bury the rhizome up to the base of the foliage, and water it in well. Keep the plant well-watered for at least three months until it's established.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Like the more familiar Christmas cactus, the Easter cactus is a flowering jungle cactus. Because this cactus originated in the jungle rather than the arid regions common among cactus plants, its care is slightly different than that of other cactus plants. The Easter cactus can survive cold up to 28 degrees Fahrenheit, but is commonly brought indoors during the winter months so you can manage its light and watering requirements.
Christmas cactus
credit: Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images
Step 1
Place the cactus in a cool environment during its dormant period of October to February. You'll want to water the plant only when the soil has dried out between waterings. To tell if it's the right time, touch the soil with your fingers. If the soil clings to your fingers, it's still wet. Water when the soil slips off your fingers.
Step 2
Move the Easter cactus into a colder environment, about 50 to 55 F, toward the end of the dormant season as buds begin to develop. If temperatures are much warmer, your Easter cactus will not bloom.
Step 3
Move the Easter cactus to a warmer room with more light once the buds are established. You'll want to keep a temperature near 60 degrees Fahrenheit while the plant is blooming, typically from April to May. Make sure you water deeply during this time, and water while the soil is still moist.
Step 4
Move the plant outside during summer months to benefit from the natural sunlight. Keep an Easter cactus in a partially sunny spot. If you live in an area that has slugs, place the plant in a hanging basket to avoid a slug infestation. Move the plant indoors by September or October to get it ready for the dormant season.
Step 5
Place the plant in a cool room. Keep the soil moist but don't offer too much water. Continue to care for your Easter cactus in this fashion until February when new blooms begin to appear.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Most Florida cactus plants produce flat stems and no leaves. However, they have characteristics that distinguish them from one another. The prickly pear cactus, for instance, produces flowers while a Christmas cactus might drop berries. Others, like the triangle cactus, only bloom at night. Florida's warm climate is the home to different species of cactus, some of which you can find in nurseries for home growth.
Christmas cactus.
The Christmas cactus is a rain forest native that needs more moisture and shade than desert cacti. This plant doesn't have leaves, but it produces flowers that bloom at the tip of flat stems that look like foliage. It grows in soil that's rich and moist. It does well as a container plant.
Prickly pear cactus.
Prickly pear is an edible cactus with nine species native to Florida, devil's tongue being one. This cactus grows 18 inches tall with a wide spread. Its flat stems look like leaves and produce 3 inch long spines, as well as smaller ones called "glochids." The bright yellow prickly pear flowers bloom one at a time for several weeks, each lasting only one day.
Close up of triangle cactus.
Triangle cactus grows in Florida, producing a large night-blooming flower that attracts hummingbird moths. Spines sprout from the cactus' leaf-like stems. The plant also produces an edible sweet red fruit. Triangle cactus tolerates freezing temperatures down to 20 degrees F.
Night blooming Cereus flower.
This climbing cactus has no spines and produces large fragrant flowers that bloom for a night in the summer. According to the Cornell University Cooperative Extension Service, night-blooming cereus needs little care to thrive and will spread like a vine up to 40 feet long. To control its propagation, it's best to grow it in a container.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactus plants comes in various shapes and sizes. This means that removing a cactus involves different steps depending on the overall size and growth of the cactus in question. While some cacti are too large to cut down with gardening tools, others can be removed by simply using a spade. When you are removing a cactus plant from your garden, be careful because the spines and needles can cause severe pain if lodged in the skin. Wear thick gloves as well as long clothing to prevent accidental contact with the spines.
Step 1
Cut the cactus plant into small pieces or pads using a chainsaw. Cut horizontally, so the pieces slide off the cactus plant and land beside the plant.
Step 2
Haul away the cactus pieces or cover them with a foot or more of fresh horse manure. The fertilizer will cause the cactus pads to rot away within six months.
Step 3
Return to the roots and remove them using a spade. Dig deep down before applying weight to the spade to lift up the roots, as the roots can be growing deep in the soil. If the roots break in the process, ensure that you go back with a hand shovel to remove the remaining roots, as cactus roots will continue to grow.
Step 4
Stir up the soil where the cactus was located, using a hand rake. Scatter some native grass seed into the soil and water it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus is aptly named because it blooms just in time for the holiday season, although older plants may keep an erratic blooming schedule. Starting a new Christmas cactus is an ideal way to ensure that you enjoy its festive blooms on time. You can actually start a Christmas cactus by taking a stem cutting from an already established plant, which ensures that your new cactus takes on the same characteristics as its "parent" plant.
Step 1
Locate a healthy stem with three or more segments on a Christmas cactus. Grasp the stem by the base and gently twist it away from the cactus. Allow the stem to dry on a paper towel overnight.
Step 2
Prepare a planting pot. Select a pot with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom, and set it on a tray. Fill the pot with a mixture of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part sand and 1 part potting soil.
Step 3
Brush aside some of the planting medium so you can plant the stem. Press the stem into the planting medium with the lower one-fourth to one-half of the bottom segment -- where you twisted it from the original plant -- sitting below the soil. Gently water the stem with a spray bottle.
Step 4
Place the pot in an area that receives indirect sunlight. Don't be alarmed if the stem starts to show signs of wilting. This is normal, and the stem should spring back to good health, with signs of new growth within a week or two.
Step 5
Spritz the cactus once a day until it starts exhibiting new growth. When this happens, you can begin watering it as you normally would. Wait until the soil is dry, then water until it's moist. You should also move the plant into direct sunlight.
Step 1
Locate a healthy stem with three or more segments on a Christmas cactus. Grasp the stem by the base and gently twist it away from the cactus. Allow the stem to dry on a paper towel overnight.
Step 2
Prepare a planting pot. Select a pot with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom, and set it on a tray. Fill the pot with a mixture of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part sand and 1 part potting soil.
Step 3
Brush aside some of the planting medium so you can plant the stem. Press the stem into the planting medium with the lower one-fourth to one-half of the bottom segment -- where you twisted it from the original plant -- sitting below the soil. Gently water the stem with a spray bottle.
Step 4
Place the pot in an area that receives indirect sunlight. Don't be alarmed if the stem starts to show signs of wilting. This is normal, and the stem should spring back to good health, with signs of new growth within a week or two.
Step 5
Spritz the cactus once a day until it starts exhibiting new growth. When this happens, you can begin watering it as you normally would. Wait until the soil is dry, then water until it's moist. You should also move the plant into direct sunlight.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Yucca cane plants grow as indoor houseplants and as outdoor ornamental plants in the garden. Yucca thrives at temperatures between 60 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit with partial shade. If you live in an area with freezing winters, plant your yucca canes in containers so they can be brought indoors during the cold months.
Repot the Plant
Step 1
Repot the yucca cane plant every two years. Choose a growing container at least 2 inches larger than the previous pot.
Step 2
Place 1 inch of pea gravel in the bottom of the growing container. This will help the water drain.
Step 3
Fill the container with a mixture comprised of three parts peat moss and one part sand.
Step 4
Remove the plant from the existing container and gently shake the soil medium from the roots.
Step 5
Dig a hole in the center of the container large enough for the root ball of the plant.
Step 6
Center the root ball in the hole and cover with the growing medium, packing the soil mixture around the stem and roots of the plant.
Step 7
Water the plant until water drains from the bottom of the container.
Other Care
Step 8
Place the yucca plant in a sunny window or an area that receives full light for part of the day.
Step 9
Water the plant only when the soil is dry. Insert a pencil or a chopstick 2 inches into the soil. Remove the pencil -- if it is completely dry, water the plant.
Step 10
Fertilize the plant using a 19-6-12 slow release fertilizer according to label directions every three months.
Step 11
Place the plants outdoors during the late spring and early summer.
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