文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
If a cactus breaks off, don't throw the broken piece away. Put it into cactus soil and start a new plant. Cacti, also known as succulents, are slow-
growing plants native to the Americas, and grow well without needing water. By following a few steps, it is possible to plant the broken section of the cactus that will take root and grow for years to come.
Step 1
Check the broken end of the cactus. If the break is crooked or uneven, make a fresh cut to even it out.
Step 2
Set the cactus piece aside allowing the cut end to callous over. The end must be dry and sealed over. The length of time it takes for the end to be calloused over varies. It depends on the humidity in the air and the thickness of the cut.
Step 3
Fill a pot with cactus mix. Leave the drainage holes uncovered -- because you want the water to drain through the soil quickly. The size of the pot depends on the type of cactus you are trying to root. If the cactus is tall, then you will need a bigger pot than if it is just a small button-type cactus.
Step 4
Insert the calloused end into the soil approximately 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the soil down with your fingers to hold the cutting in place.
Step 5
Place the pot in a warm, sunny window.
Step 6
Water the soil thoroughly, two to four weeks later. Wait another two to four weeks before watering again. It takes two to six weeks for the roots to form.
growing plants native to the Americas, and grow well without needing water. By following a few steps, it is possible to plant the broken section of the cactus that will take root and grow for years to come.
Step 1
Check the broken end of the cactus. If the break is crooked or uneven, make a fresh cut to even it out.
Step 2
Set the cactus piece aside allowing the cut end to callous over. The end must be dry and sealed over. The length of time it takes for the end to be calloused over varies. It depends on the humidity in the air and the thickness of the cut.
Step 3
Fill a pot with cactus mix. Leave the drainage holes uncovered -- because you want the water to drain through the soil quickly. The size of the pot depends on the type of cactus you are trying to root. If the cactus is tall, then you will need a bigger pot than if it is just a small button-type cactus.
Step 4
Insert the calloused end into the soil approximately 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the soil down with your fingers to hold the cutting in place.
Step 5
Place the pot in a warm, sunny window.
Step 6
Water the soil thoroughly, two to four weeks later. Wait another two to four weeks before watering again. It takes two to six weeks for the roots to form.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The curious little cacti with the colorful tops have been favorites for office and homes since they became commercially available. Most people who keep moon cacti, however, have no idea that they are grafted cacti composed of two different plants. The colorful top is a cactus that lacks chlorophyll called the chin cactus (Gymnocalycium spp.); the bottom is one of several different cacti varieties. Because these grafted cacti are made using different kinds of rootstock, it is difficult to know what size they would reach at maturation, left to their own devices. They simply do not exist in nature and do not generally live a full cactus lifetime.
Why Graft Cacti
The chin cactus that is the colored top of the moon cactus is often grafted on the top of another cactus because of a genetic mutation that has resulted in its lack of chlorophyll. In a state of nature, these mutant cacti would not live but a few weeks because they would have a difficult time feeding themselves. Grafting them on to a green cactus as a seedling allows them to share food with the green cactus below.
Understock Varieties
The understocks of moon cacti are usually either from pitaya (Hylocereus spp.) or blue myrtle cactus (Myrtillocactus geometrizans), both dark green cacti that grow larger than their grafted counterparts. Most cacti kept indoors will grow at a slow or medium rate, generally only growing a few inches per year, unlike a cactus in its natural settings.
Pitaya
Pitaya has a fleshy stem that can have three to five sides and can be seen climbing in to tree tops in the wild. They reach upward of 20 feet when left on their own. Pitaya is an important fruit-bearing plant in Florida, with the thornless varieties being preferred to the thorned.
Blue Myrtle Cactus
The blue myrtle cactus enjoys a position among the favored rootstocks for grafting all kinds of cacti. They are large cactus that develop multiple branching sections. A blue myrtle cactus in its entirety resembles a bush that reaches 15 feet high and 10 feet wide. It is a commonly seen cactus in southern Mexico and throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 through 11.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Unlike other indoor plants, cactus can live for generations when properly cared for. If your indoor cactus looks wilted or shriveled up and needs reviving don't despair. Cacti are hardy plants accustomed to harsh conditions and periods of neglect or no water. Although exact the methods of reviving your cactus will vary based upon your exact type of cactus and its current condition, you can bring life back to your indoor cactus by checking for — and fixing — a few common cactus-growing mistakes.
Step 1
Inspect the roots of the cactus by gently removing it from the soil. Healthy roots look white and fleshy. If the roots are brown and mushy the plant is suffering from root rot. Cut off the damaged roots with a sharp knife.
Step 2
Repot the cactus in a slightly larger pot than before, with well-draining potting mix specifically for succulents. If you don't have succulent mix, you can combine 1 part sand with 2 parts traditional potting soil instead.
Step
Water the soil until the top 1 inch of soil feels moist but not soggy. Keep in mind that cactus needs brief dry spells in between watering. If the plant receives too little the leaves may shrivel up. Too much water may cause the plant to go limp.
Step 4
Place the cactus in a location that received bright indirect sunlight. Too much direct sunlight may burn your cactus.
Step 5
Position plants away from drafts such as from vents or windows. Stressed plants may become shocked from hot or cold drafts from vents. Although your plant may do well with some brief exposure to outside air, it may also expose the plant to insects.
Step 6
Fertilize the cactus monthly with a balanced houseplant fertilizer during the plant's non-blooming months.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
A succulent is a plant which can store water within its leaves or bulbs for a long period of time without the need of frequent watering like other plants. You can mail a succulent plant to someone and not have to be worried about the plant not receiving any water for a few days. Packaging the plant properly will ensure its safe journey. Check with your local Department of Agriculture of extension office about rules on sending certain types of plants to other states or countries.
Step 1
Obtain the succulent you wish to send at a garden center or dig it up from your own yard. Shake off any excess soil. Don't water it. Succulent plants will travel better with dry roots.
Step 2
Wrap the succulent in tissue paper. For succulents with spikes, wrap carefully in three sheets of newspaper. Make a label for each plant and tape on the paper. Make a warning note for any succulents that have spikes.
Step 3
Place the roots of succulents such as epiphytes, orchid cacti or Christmas cactus in a plastic bag containing a small amount of peat moss and secure it with twine. Wrap the foliage in tissue paper or newspaper.
Step 4
Place the wrapped succulent into an inner box and then into a sturdy shipping box. The inner box will provide more protection especially for the succulents with pointy leaves.
Step 5
Fill in any empty spaces with newspaper to prevent the movement of the items during shipping.
Step 6
Secure the outer box with three strips of pressure sensitive tape that is 2 inches wide. Apply on the top, the bottom and all seam of the box, according to Federal Express. Write "Perishable" on the box and address it appropriately. Mail the succulents overnight to ensure a quick delivery.
Step 1
Obtain the succulent you wish to send at a garden center or dig it up from your own yard. Shake off any excess soil. Don't water it. Succulent plants will travel better with dry roots.
Step 2
Wrap the succulent in tissue paper. For succulents with spikes, wrap carefully in three sheets of newspaper. Make a label for each plant and tape on the paper. Make a warning note for any succulents that have spikes.
Step 3
Place the roots of succulents such as epiphytes, orchid cacti or Christmas cactus in a plastic bag containing a small amount of peat moss and secure it with twine. Wrap the foliage in tissue paper or newspaper.
Step 4
Place the wrapped succulent into an inner box and then into a sturdy shipping box. The inner box will provide more protection especially for the succulents with pointy leaves.
Step 5
Fill in any empty spaces with newspaper to prevent the movement of the items during shipping.
Step 6
Secure the outer box with three strips of pressure sensitive tape that is 2 inches wide. Apply on the top, the bottom and all seam of the box, according to Federal Express. Write "Perishable" on the box and address it appropriately. Mail the succulents overnight to ensure a quick delivery.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
As with all other plants, cacti require water and nutrients, taken in by the roots, in order to grow. This means that although cacti usually grow only in dry soils, they can also be grown hydroponically. Unlike many plants grown in water, cacti do not require the use of an active hydroponic system with a pump. The roots need only soak in the water and nutrient combination. This method offers several advantages over traditional soil growing. Nutrient and water levels can be controlled more precisely, contributing to greater vigor and health for the plant. Additionally, once the hydroponic system has been set up, taking care of the cactus requires much less effort than in other methods.
Step 1
Rinse the aggregate material and soak it in water for several hours.
Step 2
Place the mesh inner pot inside the outer pot. Cover the bottom of the inner pot with an inch of the aggregate.
Step 3
Remove the cactus from the soil and rinse the roots until all the soil has been removed. This will prevent the potential problems that can come with soil — such as fungus or parasite growth — from occurring. Be careful not to damage the roots.
Step 4
Place the cactus on top of the initial layer of aggregate material. Spread the roots evenly around in the space available. Fill the pot with the remaining aggregate. Try not to cover up the part of the cactus with spines, but make sure that enough material is in place to keep the plant stable. It should be grounded firmly, with no risk of falling to the side.
Step 5
Mix standard A- and B-type nutrient solutions with water to the level of concentration recommended by the solutions' packaging. Fill the pot or tray with enough of this nutrient and water mix to cover the roots. Avoid putting in enough water to soak the stem of the cactus; doing so will cause the plant to rot.
Step 6
Remove the plant approximately every two weeks and wash the roots, making sure to wash away any dead or decaying roots. Wash the stem of the cactus as well to remove dust. Change the nutrient solution completely once every one to two months.
Step 7
Place the cactus in a new pot once its roots have filled the inner container. This will probably occur once every two to three years. There is no need to repot the plant unless this occurs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cacti are fleshy, succulent plants that mostly come from the American continent. They store water in their stems that they use sparingly, and therefore, rarely need watering. They acquire water from their extensive, fibrous root systems that draw moisture from the soil through exceptional suction pressure. Cacti are flowering plants that differ greatly in shape and size. Spines, which are cacti's most notable feature, also vary greatly, with some species have long, brightly colored spines and others having short, sparse spines.
Rainforest Cacti
While the majority of cactus species are found in the hot, arid desert, a few species exist in rainforests. Orchid cacti have flat stems that resemble leaves and big bright flowers that vary in color. Holiday cacti bloom small flowers from long branching stems at Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas. Rainforest cacti prefer cooler, shadier, wetter conditions than desert cacti.
Prickly Pear Cacti
Prickly pear cacti encompasses the largest genus with over 300 species growing in a wide range of regions from Canada to Argentina. They have flat, paddle-like stems with spines that can be short or long. Prickly pear cacti flower in a variety of colors that are large and wide and bear edible fruits. Light, nutrient-rich soil keeps prickly pear cacti happy, as well as a bright, warm area.
Columnar Cacti
Columnar cacti have tall, narrow, cylindrical-shaped stems with vertical ribs. Spike density, size and flowering varies with each species. As with other arid cacti, columnar cacti prefer dry, warm, bright conditions and little moisture.
Barrel Cacti
Barrel cacti are cylindrical, resembling the shape of barrels native to the American Southwest and high limestone altitudes of Mexico. They have strong, colorful, showy spines and flowers, and can grow up to 10 feet tall. They prefer loamy, slightly acidic soil and a warm sunny location. Barrel cacti also grow very slow and don't need much fertilizing.
Hedgehog Cacti
Hedgehog cacti get their name from their globular shapes that are densely covered in spines that make them resemble hedgehogs. Native to Mexico and the southwestern U.S., they have cup-shaped flowers that, unlike other cacti, don't close up at night. Hedgehog cacti like sunny, warm areas and are sensitive to moisture and should only be watered from the bottom.
Pincushion Cacti
The majority of pincushion cacti are found in Mexico, but also grow in other parts of Central America and areas of the U.S. This small, ball-like cactus puts on a magnificent display of star-shaped flowers and has a thick coat of spines. Pincushion cacti are tolerant of a variety of different soils and prefer dry conditions.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactus plants are adapted to drought and extreme temperatures. One of the adaptations that allows them to survive their native desert conditions is slow growth. Saguaro cacti, for example, grow only 1 inch in the first eight years of life. These massive plants are usually 35 years old before they produce flowers, and at least 75 years old before they produce side arms.
Seed
Growing cactus from seed is an exercise in patience since the seeds may take up to a year to germinate. Once the seeds begin growing, it may be at least two or three years before the plant flowers. Sow the seeds in a sandy potting mix and keep the soil at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover the seed tray with plastic wrap to conserve moisture and warmth. Keep them in the starting tray until the plant stands 2 to 4 inches high, which may take up to two years.
Nursery Plants
Many nurseries and garden centers sell small cacti as houseplants. These plants grow very slowly and can remain in the same pot for two or three years. The plants grow during the spring and summer, followed by a dormant period in the fall and winter.
Care
To encourage reasonable growth, plant your cactus in a shallow pot with a coarse sand and soil mixture or a potting mix made specifically for cacti. Place the cactus outdoors in full sun during the summer, but bring it indoors in the winter. Water it every two weeks or so during hot weather. Provide water in the winter every three to four weeks. Cacti are prone to root rots and fungal diseases in damp conditions. Gradually move the plant each spring and fall to help it acclimate to its new surroundings. Moving it abruptly outdoors after a winter inside may scorch the plant.
Variety
Cacti vary in their growth rate, depending on the species. Try Christmas cactus, golden barrel or fire barrel cactus as houseplants. Other succulent plants that are often classified as a cactus, such as aloe, agave and sedums, may grow more quickly.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactus plants are much more than just spine-covered desert plants. In reality, the cactus family incorporates a great variety of versatile and useful plants that are both attractive and easy to grow. In dry regions and drought-resistant gardens, cactus is ideal because it can store water on its own. Many cactus varieties display beautiful, exotic-looking flowers. With their many shapes and sizes, cacti serve well as ornamental and landscape plants without requiring much maintenance.
Drought Resistance
Cactus is one of the best choices for a drought-resistant garden in arid regions and can help gardeners and landscapers reduce water usage. Drought-resistant gardens are those designed to thrive even when rainfall is infrequent, and do not require irrigation. Cacti are succulents and can store water within their stems for use during periods of drought. The ease of growing cactus makes maintaining a landscape more feasible. Overwatering is one of the most common ways to kill a cactus. Water infrequently, especially during winter.
Ornamental Flowers
Despite their often intimidating and painful spines, cactus plants often produce some of the showiest flowers among plants. Plant flower-bearing cacti as ornamental additions both indoors or outdoors. The flowers tend to be limited in number but are often large, have numerous petals and come in various shapes. This is especially true of Epiphyllum, the orchid cactus, which grows flowers up to 8 inches in diameter that emit a strong fragrance. Soehrensia bruchii bears vivid red petals, while Trichocereus lamprochlorus explodes a large bloom in bright yellow.
Landscaping
Plant cacti in a landscape function to add texture and shape to a yard, or to fill open spots with versatility and variety. Grow lithops if you need low-growing, small specimens. Lithops are called "living stones" or "flowering stones" because they mimic rocks. Other cacti serve well as potted plants, such as crassulas. Grow a taller cactus, such as Saguarop, to fill vertical space in a landscape. Depending on the variety, cacti may be round and small, or grow extremely large, and may be shade-loving or sun-loving plants.
Food
Certain varieties of cactus can also function as edible food crops. The Mexican dish "nopales" is made of young stems of the prickly pear cactus.The texture and flavor is comparable to green beans. The prickly pear's small leaves are also used as a crispy lettuce. Texas A&M Agrilife Extension recommends preparing nopales as follows: Remove thorns with a peeler or knife if they are present. Cut them into squares and boil with chopped onion, salt and soda until tender.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Most people think of drought-tolerant, squat, spined plants when they think of cacti. Fewer immediately jump to the three blooming holiday cacti that appear near Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas. Natives of the Brazilian rainforest, these plants require much different care than desert cacti to grow and bloom successfully. When given the right conditions, your holiday cactus may live long enough to become a family heirloom.
Step 1
Encourage new growth after the blooms drop by fertilizing with a general purpose liquid fertilizer. Keep the plant moist as it grows but do not leave it in standing water. Reduce water in mid-August to prepare the plant for its dormant period.
Step 2
Provide the cactus with 13 hours of uninterrupted hours of darkness once temperatures are consistently between 60 and 65 degrees F. Continue to simulate short days from September to November, when blooms will begin to open. Provide the plant with another dose of fertilizer when blooms open.
Step 3
Propagate additional holiday cacti by cutting sections from the original healthy cactus along the joints. Mix 3 parts compost, 1 part peat moss and 2 parts sand to make an ideal growing medium for holiday cacti. Choose a pot that drains well Plant the cactus in the medium in a new pot. Water thoroughly and allow to dry out before watering again.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Grow mini cactuses in pots indoors for a low-maintenance, hardy houseplant. The plants require very little care to thrive. As long as they get lots of sun and are in a well-draining environment, mini cactuses grow happily for years. Proper potting is important in growing a healthy plant. The right potting soil and the care right after planting are critical for success. You can put your potted mini cactus outside in summer but be sure to bring it in before winter weather sets in since cactus plants tend to be frost-tender.
Step 1
Select a pot 1 inch larger than the root mass or the nursery pot the mini cactus is currently in. Make sure the pot has at least one drain hole in the bottom to prevent excess water from accumulating around the roots. Mini cactuses grow well in 2- to 4-inch pots.
Step 2
Spread a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of fine gravel in the bottom of the pot. Add a commercial potting soil formulated for cactuses and succulents -- regular potting soil holds too much moisture for a cactus.
Step 3
Slip the mini cactus out of the nursery pot. Wear gloves to protect your hands from the sharp thorns. If the pot doesn't slip off the roots easily, give it a gentle squeeze to loosen the soil.
Step 4
Place the mini cactus upright in the new pot. Hold it with the base of the stem 1/4 inch below the lip of the pot. Add more soil under the roots if you need to until the cactus sits on its own in the pot. Fill in around the root ball and gently press the soil down with your fingertips.
Step 5
Place the pot in a sunny spot after planting. Wait to water for two full weeks after you pot the mini cactus. The disturbed roots establish themselves better if left dry for a two-week period after planting.
Step 6
Water once a month in winter and twice a month in spring, summer and early fall. Place the pot in the sink and run water over it until the liquid starts to drip out the drain holes in the bottom of the pot. Let the pot drain and then place it in a sunny window or outside in hot weather.
Step 7
Fertilize mini cactuses every other month in spring and summer. Select a 5-10-10 fertilizer and apply it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Water well after fertilizing.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Succulent plants have thick, fleshy leaves that store water. Some varieties flower while others only produce attractive foliage and stems. Most succulents thrive in dry conditions because too much moisture can cause the plants to rot. Rocky soil that drains quickly works well for most succulent varieties. You can grow them indoors in a dish filled with gravel, which provides adequate moisture drainage, although some soil is still necessary to provide nutrients and a medium for the succulent roots.
Step 1
Fill a 3- to 5-inch-deep pot or dish with a one inch layer of gravel. Use a dish with no bottom drainage holes.
Step 2
Sprinkle a tablespoon of powdered activated charcoal over the top of the gravel layer. Charcoal prevents odors from developing in the moisture trapped within the the gravel layer.
Step 3
Place a peat-based potting soil on top the gravel, filling the dish to within 1/2 inch of the rim. Alternatively, make your own mix by combining two parts peat with one part compost.
Step 4
Water the soil layer until it is evenly moistened throughout. Stick your finger into the soil mixture to judge the moisture level.
Step 5
Plant the succulents in the potting soil. Set them so their roots are buried to the same depth. Spacing requirements depend on the specific plant type, but generally a 2- to 4-inch spacing is sufficient.
Step 6
Water the succulents when the potting soil layer is completely dry. Provide only enough moisture to slightly dampen the soil. The excess moisture drains into the gravel bed beneath the soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
In hydroculture, also known as hydroponics, plants grow in a soilless medium known as substrate, where the roots anchor themselves. The substrate is usually sand or gravel and, unlike the soil in traditional planting, it does not hold nutrients. Hydroponic plants get nourishment from a water-based fertilizer. For succulents, make the feeding solution weaker than you would for other hydroponic specimens.
About Succulents
Succulents are plants that retain water in their leaves or stems, such as the cactus species. Adapted to dry climates, succulents look slightly to very swollen -- depending on the specimen -- because of the moisture they hold inside for times of drought.
Growing Succulents Hydroponically
Douglas Peckenpaugh, author of the book "Hydroponic Solutions, Volume 1," says that gardeners have to follow two rules to successfully grow succulents in hydroculture: Dilute the water-based fertilizer to half strength and use a substrate that lets the liquid seep through. River sand, gravel, perlite and vermiculite are good options. Buy the material of your choice sealed in a commercial package to guarantee sterility and prevent diseases from transferring to the succulent.
Why Hydroponics
The purpose of soil in traditional gardening is to hold nutrients, according to the University of Alabama Cooperative Extension. When you water your plants, the minerals dissolve in the liquid and the roots absorb them. Plants grown hydroponically skip this step and sometimes grow faster as a result, since nourishment is always diluted and available in the water. If you capture the water-based fertilizer as it drains to feed it to your succulent multiple times, limit the food recycling to two weeks. At the end of that period, drench the substrate with water to flush old nutrient residue. After the medium becomes almost dry, begin to feed the plant a fresh batch of liquid feed.
Feeding the Succulent
To prevent saturating your succulent with water, which can kill it, allow the substrate to become mostly dry before refilling the hydroculture pot with liquid feed. But also take care to not let the plant sit in a dry medium for long periods of time. The feeding solution for hydroponic culture provides the same nutrients that traditionally grown plants need. Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, as well as calcium and magnesium, are needed in large amounts and considered macronutrients. Minerals such as iron, zinc and copper are trace elements required in small quantities. Recipes for you to prepare your own hydroponic feed exist, but using a commercial formula is simpler. The manufacturer calculates all the ratios among the nutrients with precision and gives you the application instructions. You just need to remember to weaken the formula to half-strength with water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Agave plants are succulents that feature thick, water-filled leaves. They thrive in dry, hot conditions and can live for long periods without water. If the weather is too harsh, agave plants becomes dormant, shedding leaves until they take in water again. Agave plants can also suffer from a variety of diseases and pest infestations. Examining your agave plant's symptoms is the best way to determine the best treatment to nurse the plant back to health.
Freezing
Step 1
Examine the leaves of the agave plant for black areas. Freezing causes the agave leaves to turn black, eventually drying and falling off. Usually the agave plant recovers from external freeze damage when freezing temperatures only last a few hours.
Step 2
Transplant the agave near the house or in a patio area that receives warmth from the house. Carefully remove the agave plant from the soil using a garden shovel.
Step 3
Choose a well-drained area and plant the agave so that the agave tissue remains above the soil. Succulents planted too deeply cannot establish roots and eventually die.
Sun Damage
Step 4
Examine the agave for yellowing leaves and dropping leaves. Excessive sunlight causes these symptoms.
Step 5
Transplant the agave to an area with partial shade following the instructions in Section 1, Steps 2 and 3.
Step 6
Choose areas for transplanting where pine and oaks give partial shade or in an area protected from direct sunlight.
Anthracnose
Step 7
Examine your agave plant for orange or red spores or lesions on the leaves and leaf tops. Lesions form as a result of the spores. Wet weather is the cause of anthracnose, causing spores to spread over the plant from wind and rain.
Step 8
Remove the leaf and avoid watering the plant with a sprinkler if you find spores or lesions.
Step 9
Protect the agave from the rain with a plastic covering until the lesions disappear.
Helminthosporium
Step 10
Check for soft, dark spots on the upper area of your agave plant. A fungus from the Helminthosporium species forms spores that infect the agave when carried by wind and rain, resulting in leaf rotting.
Step 11
Apply fungicides to diminish the spread of the fungus by spraying both the upper and lower portions of the leaves. Spray fungicides around the agave base also.
Step 12
Remove excessively infected plants to prevent spreading the spores to other plants.
Insects
Step 13
Examine the agave plant for wilted or yellow, scarred leaves. Female weevils lay eggs inside the base of the plant, causing wilting leaves and plant collapse from surface wounds, while the agave plant bug causes yellow leaves.
Step 14
Apply broad-spectrum insecticides in the spring to control the agave weevil and plant bugs.
Step 15
Spray the insecticides around the plant base to thoroughly destroy any weevils living in the soil. Spray the insecticide on the upper and lower surfaces of all leaves to prevent agave bug plant infestation.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
If your raspberry bush buds die, the side shoots wilt and the canes fail, cane blight is probably the culprit. What is cane blight? It’s a disease that attacks all kinds of cane plants including black, purple and red raspberries. You’ll do best to start a defense against cane blight early by adopting good cultural practices. Read on for information about plants affected by cane blight and cane blight control.
What is Cane Blight? Cane blight is a disease that affects brambles. It is usually caused by the fungus Leptosphaeria coniothyrium, a fungus that can also attack roses and rot the fruit of apple and pear trees. The fungus can live all winter long on dead canes. Spores formed on these canes cause infection when rain, wind or insects carries them into damaged areas or wounds on the canes. A bacterial form of cane blight also exists. Bacterial cane blight is caused by an undetermined pathovar of the bacterium Pseudomonas syringae. Plants Affected by Cane Blight All bramble plants – that is, all Rubrus species – can be affected by cane blight. Perhaps the species most susceptible is black raspberry, but all raspberries can get it, as can roses. No cane-blight-resistant raspberry cultivars have been identified yet. In the meanwhile, choose less susceptible cultivars.
Cane Blight Symptoms You are most likely to see cane blight infections between late April and early May. Look for bud failure, lateral shoot wilt, and cane death. You are likely to first notice wilted foliage. Look carefully below this foliage for dark brown or purple cankers that can extend along the cane for several inches. Bacterial cane blight symptoms are similar to those of the fungus-caused disease. Red-brown discolorations appear on stems, then turn dark purple or black and necrotic. Cane Blight Control Control of cane blight is possible through both cultural and chemical means. Cultural You can help prevent fungal cane blight by using cultural practices that prevent damage to the canes. These include eliminating weed-whacking near the canes, controlling insect pests and limiting pruning. It also helps to try to keep the cane foliage dry, or aid its rapid drying.
For example, keeping fruiting rows narrow and weeded assists them in drying after a rain, as does thinning out weak canes. Also, you should take care with the cane site selection. You want the canes to have good drainage and air circulation. It’s also a good idea to dispose of old, diseased canes immediately after harvest. That prevents overwintering fungus. Chemical If the cane blight disease is getting the best of your brambles, apply an application of lime sulfur or copper to your dormant plants. Use liquid lime sulfur when new leaves arrive, and be sure to cover all of the canes thoroughly.
What is Cane Blight? Cane blight is a disease that affects brambles. It is usually caused by the fungus Leptosphaeria coniothyrium, a fungus that can also attack roses and rot the fruit of apple and pear trees. The fungus can live all winter long on dead canes. Spores formed on these canes cause infection when rain, wind or insects carries them into damaged areas or wounds on the canes. A bacterial form of cane blight also exists. Bacterial cane blight is caused by an undetermined pathovar of the bacterium Pseudomonas syringae. Plants Affected by Cane Blight All bramble plants – that is, all Rubrus species – can be affected by cane blight. Perhaps the species most susceptible is black raspberry, but all raspberries can get it, as can roses. No cane-blight-resistant raspberry cultivars have been identified yet. In the meanwhile, choose less susceptible cultivars.
Cane Blight Symptoms You are most likely to see cane blight infections between late April and early May. Look for bud failure, lateral shoot wilt, and cane death. You are likely to first notice wilted foliage. Look carefully below this foliage for dark brown or purple cankers that can extend along the cane for several inches. Bacterial cane blight symptoms are similar to those of the fungus-caused disease. Red-brown discolorations appear on stems, then turn dark purple or black and necrotic. Cane Blight Control Control of cane blight is possible through both cultural and chemical means. Cultural You can help prevent fungal cane blight by using cultural practices that prevent damage to the canes. These include eliminating weed-whacking near the canes, controlling insect pests and limiting pruning. It also helps to try to keep the cane foliage dry, or aid its rapid drying.
For example, keeping fruiting rows narrow and weeded assists them in drying after a rain, as does thinning out weak canes. Also, you should take care with the cane site selection. You want the canes to have good drainage and air circulation. It’s also a good idea to dispose of old, diseased canes immediately after harvest. That prevents overwintering fungus. Chemical If the cane blight disease is getting the best of your brambles, apply an application of lime sulfur or copper to your dormant plants. Use liquid lime sulfur when new leaves arrive, and be sure to cover all of the canes thoroughly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Diseases in plants can be very difficult to diagnose due to the nearly infinite numbers of pathogens. Phytoplasma disease in plants are generally seen as “yellows,” a form of disease common in many plant species. What is phytoplasma disease? Well, first you need to understand the phytoplasma life cycle and how they are spread. New studies indicate that phytoplasma effects on plants can mimic damage shown by psyllid insects or leaf roll virus. Phytoplasma Life Cycle Phytoplasmas infect plants and insects. They are spread by insects through their feeding activities which inject the pathogen into the phloem of the plants. 
The pathogen causes a host of symptoms, most of which are all potentially damaging to plant health. Phytoplasma live in the phloem cells of a plant and usually, but not always, cause disease symptoms. These tiny pests are actually bacteria with no cell wall or nucleus. As such, they have no way to store necessary compounds and must steal these from their host. Phytoplasma are parasitic in this way. Phytoplasma infect insect vectors and replicate within their host. In a plant, they are limited to the phloem where they replicate intracellularly. Phytoplasma cause changes in their insect and plant hosts. The changes in the plants are defined as diseases. There are 30 recognized insect species which transmit the disease to various plant species. Symptoms of Phytoplasma Phtoplasma disease in plants can take on several different symptoms. The most common phytoplasma effects on plants resemble the common “yellows” and can affect over 200 plant species, both monocots and dicots.
The insect vectors are often leafhoppers and cause such diseases as: Aster yellows Peach yellows Grapevine yellows Lime and peanut witches’ brooms Soybean purple stem Blueberry stunt The primary visible effect are yellowing leaves, stunted and rolled foliage and unripened shoots and fruits. Other symptoms of phytoplasma infection might be stunted plants, a “witches’ broom” appearance on terminal new bud growth, stunted roots, aerial tubers and even die back of entire portions of the plant. Over time, the disease can cause death in plants. Managing Phytoplasma Disease in Plants Controlling phytoplasma diseases usually begins with controlling insect vectors. This starts with good weed removal practices and clearing brush that can host insect vectors. Bacteria in one plant can also spread to other plants, so often removal of an infected plant is necessary to contain the contagion.
Symptoms appear in mid- to late summer. It can take 10 to 40 days for plants to exhibit infection after the insect has fed on it. Controlling leafhoppers and other host insects can help control the spread of the disease. Dry weather seems to increase leafhopper activity, so it is important to keep the plant watered. Good cultural care and practices will increase plant resistance and spread.
The pathogen causes a host of symptoms, most of which are all potentially damaging to plant health. Phytoplasma live in the phloem cells of a plant and usually, but not always, cause disease symptoms. These tiny pests are actually bacteria with no cell wall or nucleus. As such, they have no way to store necessary compounds and must steal these from their host. Phytoplasma are parasitic in this way. Phytoplasma infect insect vectors and replicate within their host. In a plant, they are limited to the phloem where they replicate intracellularly. Phytoplasma cause changes in their insect and plant hosts. The changes in the plants are defined as diseases. There are 30 recognized insect species which transmit the disease to various plant species. Symptoms of Phytoplasma Phtoplasma disease in plants can take on several different symptoms. The most common phytoplasma effects on plants resemble the common “yellows” and can affect over 200 plant species, both monocots and dicots.
The insect vectors are often leafhoppers and cause such diseases as: Aster yellows Peach yellows Grapevine yellows Lime and peanut witches’ brooms Soybean purple stem Blueberry stunt The primary visible effect are yellowing leaves, stunted and rolled foliage and unripened shoots and fruits. Other symptoms of phytoplasma infection might be stunted plants, a “witches’ broom” appearance on terminal new bud growth, stunted roots, aerial tubers and even die back of entire portions of the plant. Over time, the disease can cause death in plants. Managing Phytoplasma Disease in Plants Controlling phytoplasma diseases usually begins with controlling insect vectors. This starts with good weed removal practices and clearing brush that can host insect vectors. Bacteria in one plant can also spread to other plants, so often removal of an infected plant is necessary to contain the contagion.
Symptoms appear in mid- to late summer. It can take 10 to 40 days for plants to exhibit infection after the insect has fed on it. Controlling leafhoppers and other host insects can help control the spread of the disease. Dry weather seems to increase leafhopper activity, so it is important to keep the plant watered. Good cultural care and practices will increase plant resistance and spread.
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