文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Yarrow produces flat-topped inflorescences, and as a result it is sometimesmistaken for one of the umbellifers (Apiaceae). In fact Yarrow is a member of the daisy family, Asteraceae.
Identification
The plants have feathery leaves arranged around the stems, which can grow up to a metre but are usually less than 0.5m tall, and an inflorescence comprises three to eight roundish ray flowers surrounding between 15 and 40 tiny disc flowers.
Distribution
Yarrow is very common throughout Britain and Ireland, and it occurs also across Europe and Asia as well as in North America.
Habitat
This wayside wildflower is found mainly on drier slopes and meadows as well as on many grassy roadside verges.
Blooming Times
Achillea ptarmica blooms in Britain and Ireland from June until October, and is generally at its best in July and August.
Reproduction
Yarrow can reproduce either by means of seeds or by vegetative means. The oblong to lance-shaped fruits of Yarrow are about 2mm long, flattened, and ribbed longitudinally.
Each fruit of Yarrow, known as an achene, contains a single seed, but reproduction is also achieved vegetatively by means of underground creeping stems known as rhizomes, from which new plants (which are therefore clones of the parent plant) arise.
Uses
Considered a plant of the devil in Wales, this wildflower has long been thought to bring bad luck (or even death) if its flowers are brought in to a home. Yarrow is, in any case,
There are many traditional medical uses recorded for this plant, including its use as an astringent to cure bleeding noses.
Herbal tea can be made from the flowers, although given its known medical properties this practice seems rather inadvisable.
Etymology
The generic botanical name Achillea stems from the belief that Achilles used Yarrow to treat the wounds of his soldiers. The finely divided leaves give it its specificname (millefoilium means 'with 1000 leaflets').
Varieties
Most Yarrow flowers are white or cream, but some have a mauve flush or occasionally a purple tinge. Other colour forms seen in the wild are almost certainly the result of garden escapes.
In Scandinavia a red-flowered form of Yarrow is found occasionally in the wild. It is not a separate species nor even a subspecies but rather merely a hereditary colour variant; however, selective breeding in cultivation has enabled nurseries to produce Yarrow cultivars raging through white, cream and yellow to mauve, purple, pink and red.
Similar Species
Sneezewort, Achillea ptarmica, has larger flowers and fewer of them; it grows in damp grassland sites.
Identification
The plants have feathery leaves arranged around the stems, which can grow up to a metre but are usually less than 0.5m tall, and an inflorescence comprises three to eight roundish ray flowers surrounding between 15 and 40 tiny disc flowers.
Distribution
Yarrow is very common throughout Britain and Ireland, and it occurs also across Europe and Asia as well as in North America.
Habitat
This wayside wildflower is found mainly on drier slopes and meadows as well as on many grassy roadside verges.
Blooming Times
Achillea ptarmica blooms in Britain and Ireland from June until October, and is generally at its best in July and August.
Reproduction
Yarrow can reproduce either by means of seeds or by vegetative means. The oblong to lance-shaped fruits of Yarrow are about 2mm long, flattened, and ribbed longitudinally.
Each fruit of Yarrow, known as an achene, contains a single seed, but reproduction is also achieved vegetatively by means of underground creeping stems known as rhizomes, from which new plants (which are therefore clones of the parent plant) arise.
Uses
Considered a plant of the devil in Wales, this wildflower has long been thought to bring bad luck (or even death) if its flowers are brought in to a home. Yarrow is, in any case,
There are many traditional medical uses recorded for this plant, including its use as an astringent to cure bleeding noses.
Herbal tea can be made from the flowers, although given its known medical properties this practice seems rather inadvisable.
Etymology
The generic botanical name Achillea stems from the belief that Achilles used Yarrow to treat the wounds of his soldiers. The finely divided leaves give it its specificname (millefoilium means 'with 1000 leaflets').
Varieties
Most Yarrow flowers are white or cream, but some have a mauve flush or occasionally a purple tinge. Other colour forms seen in the wild are almost certainly the result of garden escapes.
In Scandinavia a red-flowered form of Yarrow is found occasionally in the wild. It is not a separate species nor even a subspecies but rather merely a hereditary colour variant; however, selective breeding in cultivation has enabled nurseries to produce Yarrow cultivars raging through white, cream and yellow to mauve, purple, pink and red.
Similar Species
Sneezewort, Achillea ptarmica, has larger flowers and fewer of them; it grows in damp grassland sites.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Violets (Viola) are a genus of Spring flowering plants in the family Violaceae. There are around 400-500 species of Violets in the genus. Violets are native to the temperate Northern Hemisphere and are also distributed in Hawaii, Australasia, and the Andes in South America. Violets are found in moist and slightly shaded conditions such as hedgerows.
The word 'Violet' comes from the Latin name 'Viola'. Ordinary Violets, Common Blue Violets, Sweet violets and Garden violets are some of the popular varieties of violets. Most Violets are small perennial plants, but a few are annual plants and some are small shrubs.
Violets typically have heart-shaped leaves, and asymmetrical flowers. The shape of the petals defines many species, for example, some Violets have a spur at the end of each petal. Flower colors vary among the Violets, many of which are violet as their name suggests, and some are blue, yellow, white and cream. Some are bicolored, often blue and yellow.
Facts about Violets
True Violets have been known for centuries with the ancient Greeks cultivating them about 500 BC or earlier. Both the Greeks and the Romans used Violets for all sorts of things such as herbal remedies, wine ('Vinum Violatum'), to sweeten food and for festivals.
Strictly, Sweet violets, Bedding Violas and Pansies are all classified as "violas". Sweet Violets descended from the European wild sweet violet, Viola odorata. Bedding Violas (the flower that we usually call "violas") were hybridized from pansies and Viola cornuta. Pansies developed from the wild violas, Viola lutea and Viola tricolor ("johnny-jump-up").
Violets are used as food plants by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species.
Crossings of a number of plants were developed and these were known as the 'Quatre saisons' violets. Along with the so-called 'Russian Violet' introduced in the latter part of the 19th century, these horticultural efforts gave us the Violets we grow today.
The Blue violet is common to the United States, growing from Maine to Florida.
The Ancient Greeks considered the Violet a symbol of fertility and love; they used it in love potions. Pliny recommended that a garland of violets be worn above the head to ward off headaches and dizzy spells.
The genus includes the Dog Violets, a group of scentless species which are the commonest violets in many areas; the Sweet Violet, Viola odorata (named from its sweet scent) and many other species whose common name includes the word "Violet". Several species are known as Pansies.
The purple violet/Wood Violet/ blue prairie Violet/Prairie blue Violet/hooded blue Violet/meadow blue Violet/and butterfly Violet, is very popular in the eastern United States and is Wisconsin's State Flower.
Violets should not be taken internally in large doses. Violet flowers are edible, used in medicines, as a laxative, and the flowers are candied for decoration in jellies, etc.
True Violets
Saintpaulia is a genus comprising African violets, which are not true Violets. The main differences between African Violets and True violets are:
African violets are mainly grown as houseplants. They are shallow rooting plants that enjoy a good amount of light as long as it is in the shade. True violets are deep-rooting outdoor plants that thrive in partial shade to full sun.
African violets have fleshy downy leaves and produce throughout the summer, five-petalled flowers, usually with a distinct eye while true violets have large to small heart shaped leaves, sometimes smooth, sometimes with varying degrees of hairiness. The flowers are produced from September through to March and most, apart from the Parma Violets, which are frost tolerant.
Varieties of Violets
Viola arvensis - Field Pansy
Viola biflora - Yellow Wood Violet or Twoflower Violet
Viola canina - Heath Dog Violet
Viola hirta - Hairy Violet
Viola odorata - Sweet Violet
Viola pedunculata - Yellow Pansy
Viola riviniana - Common Dog Violet
Viola tricolor - Wild Pansy or Heart's-ease
Viola adunca - Early Blue Violet
Viola nephrophylla - Northern Bog Violet
Viola pedatifida - Crowfoot Violet
Viola pubescens - Downy Yellow Violet
Viola rugulosa - Western Canada Violet
Growing Violets
Violets are easily cultivated through root cuttings or seeds.
Violets are best grown in the dappled shade of deciduous trees thus allowing full winter and spring sunshine.
Choose a site with full sun to light shade. Violets also like well-drained, fairly rich soil, so work in a spadeful or two of compost at planting time for best results.
Plant Violets in early spring, four to six weeks before your region's last frost date.
Plant 4 to 8 inches apart, depending on the variety.
Mulch to keep roots cooler longer.
Water only moderately. Although they love cool conditions, Violets don't need huge amounts of water.
Pinch off spent blooms to promote longer flowering.
Fertilize once after blooming starts.
Violet Plant Care
Prick out the seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle and plant them out in summer. Violets should receive extra moisture in dry weather, as Red Spider Mite is liable to attack if they are allowed to get parched. Spraying with a hose is helpful. Occasional feeding with soot water or liquid manure and even a top dressing of blood or bone is helpful for good blooms.
Division during the autumn or just after flowering. Larger divisions can be planted out direct into their permanent positions, though it is best to pot up smaller divisions and grow them in light shade in a greenhouse or cold frame until they are growing away well. Keep runners picked off during the growing season. This will encourage good sized flowers.
The word 'Violet' comes from the Latin name 'Viola'. Ordinary Violets, Common Blue Violets, Sweet violets and Garden violets are some of the popular varieties of violets. Most Violets are small perennial plants, but a few are annual plants and some are small shrubs.
Violets typically have heart-shaped leaves, and asymmetrical flowers. The shape of the petals defines many species, for example, some Violets have a spur at the end of each petal. Flower colors vary among the Violets, many of which are violet as their name suggests, and some are blue, yellow, white and cream. Some are bicolored, often blue and yellow.
Facts about Violets
True Violets have been known for centuries with the ancient Greeks cultivating them about 500 BC or earlier. Both the Greeks and the Romans used Violets for all sorts of things such as herbal remedies, wine ('Vinum Violatum'), to sweeten food and for festivals.
Strictly, Sweet violets, Bedding Violas and Pansies are all classified as "violas". Sweet Violets descended from the European wild sweet violet, Viola odorata. Bedding Violas (the flower that we usually call "violas") were hybridized from pansies and Viola cornuta. Pansies developed from the wild violas, Viola lutea and Viola tricolor ("johnny-jump-up").
Violets are used as food plants by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species.
Crossings of a number of plants were developed and these were known as the 'Quatre saisons' violets. Along with the so-called 'Russian Violet' introduced in the latter part of the 19th century, these horticultural efforts gave us the Violets we grow today.
The Blue violet is common to the United States, growing from Maine to Florida.
The Ancient Greeks considered the Violet a symbol of fertility and love; they used it in love potions. Pliny recommended that a garland of violets be worn above the head to ward off headaches and dizzy spells.
The genus includes the Dog Violets, a group of scentless species which are the commonest violets in many areas; the Sweet Violet, Viola odorata (named from its sweet scent) and many other species whose common name includes the word "Violet". Several species are known as Pansies.
The purple violet/Wood Violet/ blue prairie Violet/Prairie blue Violet/hooded blue Violet/meadow blue Violet/and butterfly Violet, is very popular in the eastern United States and is Wisconsin's State Flower.
Violets should not be taken internally in large doses. Violet flowers are edible, used in medicines, as a laxative, and the flowers are candied for decoration in jellies, etc.
True Violets
Saintpaulia is a genus comprising African violets, which are not true Violets. The main differences between African Violets and True violets are:
African violets are mainly grown as houseplants. They are shallow rooting plants that enjoy a good amount of light as long as it is in the shade. True violets are deep-rooting outdoor plants that thrive in partial shade to full sun.
African violets have fleshy downy leaves and produce throughout the summer, five-petalled flowers, usually with a distinct eye while true violets have large to small heart shaped leaves, sometimes smooth, sometimes with varying degrees of hairiness. The flowers are produced from September through to March and most, apart from the Parma Violets, which are frost tolerant.
Varieties of Violets
Viola arvensis - Field Pansy
Viola biflora - Yellow Wood Violet or Twoflower Violet
Viola canina - Heath Dog Violet
Viola hirta - Hairy Violet
Viola odorata - Sweet Violet
Viola pedunculata - Yellow Pansy
Viola riviniana - Common Dog Violet
Viola tricolor - Wild Pansy or Heart's-ease
Viola adunca - Early Blue Violet
Viola nephrophylla - Northern Bog Violet
Viola pedatifida - Crowfoot Violet
Viola pubescens - Downy Yellow Violet
Viola rugulosa - Western Canada Violet
Growing Violets
Violets are easily cultivated through root cuttings or seeds.
Violets are best grown in the dappled shade of deciduous trees thus allowing full winter and spring sunshine.
Choose a site with full sun to light shade. Violets also like well-drained, fairly rich soil, so work in a spadeful or two of compost at planting time for best results.
Plant Violets in early spring, four to six weeks before your region's last frost date.
Plant 4 to 8 inches apart, depending on the variety.
Mulch to keep roots cooler longer.
Water only moderately. Although they love cool conditions, Violets don't need huge amounts of water.
Pinch off spent blooms to promote longer flowering.
Fertilize once after blooming starts.
Violet Plant Care
Prick out the seedlings into individual pots when they are large enough to handle and plant them out in summer. Violets should receive extra moisture in dry weather, as Red Spider Mite is liable to attack if they are allowed to get parched. Spraying with a hose is helpful. Occasional feeding with soot water or liquid manure and even a top dressing of blood or bone is helpful for good blooms.
Division during the autumn or just after flowering. Larger divisions can be planted out direct into their permanent positions, though it is best to pot up smaller divisions and grow them in light shade in a greenhouse or cold frame until they are growing away well. Keep runners picked off during the growing season. This will encourage good sized flowers.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Irises are wonderful garden plants. The word Iris means rainbow. Irises come in many colors such as blue and purple, white and yellow, pink and orange, brown and red, and even black.
The genus Iris has about 200 species and is native to the North Temperate regions of the world. The habitat of irises also varies a lot. Some irises grow in deserts, some in swamps, some in the cold far north, and many in temperate climates. Bearded Iris and Siberian Iris are two of the most common types of irises grown.
Some Interesting Facts about Iris
Irises come in many forms, shapes, colors and sizes and the sword-like foliage is attractive when the plant is not in bloom.
The Iris was named after the Greek goddess who is considered to be the messenger of love and uses the rainbow to travel. Iris was probably named after the goddess because of the numerous colors it is available in.
Irises are among the best-known and loved among garden plants. Irises are hardy herbaceous perennials.
The genus Iris is a large genus of bulbous and rhizomatous perennials.
The Iris was named after the goddess of the rainbow because of its many colors.
A flower on the Sphinx is considered to be an Iris, and another appears on a bas-relief of the time of the 18th Egyptian dynasty.
Pliny also knew the Iris and praised its medicinal virtues.
The Iris was also a favorite flower of the Moslems who took it to Spain after their conquest in the 8th century.
Types of Irises
Irises are classified into two major groups, Rhizome Irises and Bulbous Irises. Within those groups are countless species, varieties, cultivars and hybrids, according to the American Iris Society.
Rhizome Irises are thickened stems that grow horizontally, either underground or partially underground. After planting, iris rhizomes produce sword like leaves that overlap, forming flat fans of green foliage. Three popular irises in this group are Bearded, Beardless and Crested Irises.
The bearded iris has four distinct parts: the Standards, Falls, Stigma flaps, and Beard
The beardless variety has: Standards, Falls and Stigma flaps, but usually have crests
The crested Irises or Evansia Iris has: Standards, Falls and Stigma flaps and in addition to a ridge on the falls of the blossom, they have ridges like crests instead of beards
Crested irises are often considered in the same manner as the beardless iris. These plants spread freely by underground stems and produce flat flowers in the shades of blue, violet and white. Often the flowers and leaves are found on bamboo like stems which can vary in height from 5-200 centimeters in height.
Growing Irises
Before planting Iris, improve the soil conditions by using a slow release fertilizer. To increase the organic matter content, use compost, peat moss or well-rotted manure. Fertilizer and organic matter should be worked thoroughly into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil.
Wooded areas with good drainage and partial shade are ideal spots for the crested iris.
Irises are grown from both seed and root separation.
The roots or rhizomes, are easily separated and replanted.
The rhizome looks like a long, thin potato with roots underneath.
When transplanting, separate the rhizome. Make sure to have some root and a leaf or two in each section.
Plant the rhizomes near the surface with the roots below.
Divide the clumps and plant single rhizomes, spacing them 8 to 18 inches apart according to the effect desired.
Spade a planting hole about 10 inches deep and work 1 tablespoonful of fertilizer into the soil in the bottom of the hole.
If the soil is heavy, some drainage material such as gravel or broken pottery should be placed in the hole.
Fill the hole with loose soil and place the root section so that it will not be covered more than 1 inch deep.
Most Beardless Irises can also be propagated from seeds.
Iris Plant Care
Apply a thin layer of compost around the base of plants each spring, leaving the rhizome exposed.
As flowers fade, cut back the flower stalks to the base of the plant.
To encourage a second bloom on re-blooming varieties, promptly remove faded flowers and maintain consistent watering throughout the summer.
In autumn, trim away dead foliage and prune back healthy leaves to a height of 4 to 5 inches.
Once the soil has frozen, apply a layer of mulch to help prevent roots from heaving out of the soil during alternate freezing and thawing.
If heaving occurs, don't try to force plants back into the soil. Instead, cover rhizomes and exposed roots with soil.
Divide bearded irises every 4 to 5 years, preferably in late summer. Each division should have one or two leaf fans. Older rhizomes that have few white feeding roots should be discarded.
Other Uses of Iris
The juice of the fresh roots of Iris, bruised with wine, has been employed as a strong purge of great efficiency in dropsy.
Iris roots are used to treat skin diseases. The juice of Irises are also sometimes used as a cosmetic for the removal of freckles on the skin.
The fresh root of the Iris germanica is a powerful cathartic, and for this reason its juice has been employed in dropsy. It is chiefly used in the dry state, being said to be good for complaints of the lungs, for coughs and hoarseness, but is now more valued for the pleasantness of its violet-like perfume than for any other use.
Iris flowers are used as a liver purge.
Purple Iris
Purple Iris Flowers bloom for two to three weeks in the late spring to early summer.
The Purple Iris is the state flower of Tennessee.
The Purple Iris can be grown in your home, in containers.
The majority of Iris flowers are in Purple.
The genus Iris has about 200 species and is native to the North Temperate regions of the world. The habitat of irises also varies a lot. Some irises grow in deserts, some in swamps, some in the cold far north, and many in temperate climates. Bearded Iris and Siberian Iris are two of the most common types of irises grown.
Some Interesting Facts about Iris
Irises come in many forms, shapes, colors and sizes and the sword-like foliage is attractive when the plant is not in bloom.
The Iris was named after the Greek goddess who is considered to be the messenger of love and uses the rainbow to travel. Iris was probably named after the goddess because of the numerous colors it is available in.
Irises are among the best-known and loved among garden plants. Irises are hardy herbaceous perennials.
The genus Iris is a large genus of bulbous and rhizomatous perennials.
The Iris was named after the goddess of the rainbow because of its many colors.
A flower on the Sphinx is considered to be an Iris, and another appears on a bas-relief of the time of the 18th Egyptian dynasty.
Pliny also knew the Iris and praised its medicinal virtues.
The Iris was also a favorite flower of the Moslems who took it to Spain after their conquest in the 8th century.
Types of Irises
Irises are classified into two major groups, Rhizome Irises and Bulbous Irises. Within those groups are countless species, varieties, cultivars and hybrids, according to the American Iris Society.
Rhizome Irises are thickened stems that grow horizontally, either underground or partially underground. After planting, iris rhizomes produce sword like leaves that overlap, forming flat fans of green foliage. Three popular irises in this group are Bearded, Beardless and Crested Irises.
The bearded iris has four distinct parts: the Standards, Falls, Stigma flaps, and Beard
The beardless variety has: Standards, Falls and Stigma flaps, but usually have crests
The crested Irises or Evansia Iris has: Standards, Falls and Stigma flaps and in addition to a ridge on the falls of the blossom, they have ridges like crests instead of beards
Crested irises are often considered in the same manner as the beardless iris. These plants spread freely by underground stems and produce flat flowers in the shades of blue, violet and white. Often the flowers and leaves are found on bamboo like stems which can vary in height from 5-200 centimeters in height.
Growing Irises
Before planting Iris, improve the soil conditions by using a slow release fertilizer. To increase the organic matter content, use compost, peat moss or well-rotted manure. Fertilizer and organic matter should be worked thoroughly into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil.
Wooded areas with good drainage and partial shade are ideal spots for the crested iris.
Irises are grown from both seed and root separation.
The roots or rhizomes, are easily separated and replanted.
The rhizome looks like a long, thin potato with roots underneath.
When transplanting, separate the rhizome. Make sure to have some root and a leaf or two in each section.
Plant the rhizomes near the surface with the roots below.
Divide the clumps and plant single rhizomes, spacing them 8 to 18 inches apart according to the effect desired.
Spade a planting hole about 10 inches deep and work 1 tablespoonful of fertilizer into the soil in the bottom of the hole.
If the soil is heavy, some drainage material such as gravel or broken pottery should be placed in the hole.
Fill the hole with loose soil and place the root section so that it will not be covered more than 1 inch deep.
Most Beardless Irises can also be propagated from seeds.
Iris Plant Care
Apply a thin layer of compost around the base of plants each spring, leaving the rhizome exposed.
As flowers fade, cut back the flower stalks to the base of the plant.
To encourage a second bloom on re-blooming varieties, promptly remove faded flowers and maintain consistent watering throughout the summer.
In autumn, trim away dead foliage and prune back healthy leaves to a height of 4 to 5 inches.
Once the soil has frozen, apply a layer of mulch to help prevent roots from heaving out of the soil during alternate freezing and thawing.
If heaving occurs, don't try to force plants back into the soil. Instead, cover rhizomes and exposed roots with soil.
Divide bearded irises every 4 to 5 years, preferably in late summer. Each division should have one or two leaf fans. Older rhizomes that have few white feeding roots should be discarded.
Other Uses of Iris
The juice of the fresh roots of Iris, bruised with wine, has been employed as a strong purge of great efficiency in dropsy.
Iris roots are used to treat skin diseases. The juice of Irises are also sometimes used as a cosmetic for the removal of freckles on the skin.
The fresh root of the Iris germanica is a powerful cathartic, and for this reason its juice has been employed in dropsy. It is chiefly used in the dry state, being said to be good for complaints of the lungs, for coughs and hoarseness, but is now more valued for the pleasantness of its violet-like perfume than for any other use.
Iris flowers are used as a liver purge.
Purple Iris
Purple Iris Flowers bloom for two to three weeks in the late spring to early summer.
The Purple Iris is the state flower of Tennessee.
The Purple Iris can be grown in your home, in containers.
The majority of Iris flowers are in Purple.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
The genus Anemone consists of 120 species of perennial flowering plants, which grow from tubers. Anemones grow wild in many European countries, in North America, and Japan. Anemones are closely related to Pasque flower (Pulsatilla) and Hepatica (Hepatica); some botanists include both of these genera within the genus Anemone.
Facts About Anemones
The name Anemone comes from Greek and roughly means wind flower, which signifies that the wind that blows the petal open will also, eventually, blow the dead petals away.
The Anemone plants are perennial herbs with an underground rootstock, and radical, more or less deeply cut leaves.
The elongated flower stem bears one or several, white, red, blue or rarely yellow flowers. There is an involucre of three leaflets below each flower.
The fruits often bear long hairy styles, which aid their distribution by the wind. They produce cup-shaped yellowish, white, purple, violet, or red Anemone flowers.
Among the most popular are the autumn-flowering Japanese Anemone (Anemone hupehensis).
Yellow wood anemone (Anemone ranunculoides), also known as the Buttercup Anemone, is a similar plant with slightly smaller flowers of rich yellow colouring.
In medicine, Anemone is used as a treatment for cramps, menstrual problems and emotional distress.
Varieties of Anemone
Broadly, there are three types of Anemone flowers-
Spring flowering type, which has either rhizomes or tubers.
Tuberous Mediterranean, which flowers in spring and summer.
Larger Fall flowering type, which blooms in late summer to fall and tends to have fibrous roots.
Anemone Species
Popular species of Anemones and their common names are as follows:
Anemone blanda - Blue Anemone
Anemone coronaria - Poppy Anemone
Anemone hupehensis - Chinese Anemone
Anemone hupehensis var. japonica - Japanese Anemone
Anemone narcissiflora - Narcissus Anemone
Anemone nemorosa - Wood Anemone
Anemone ranunculoides - Yellow Woodland Anemone/buttercup anemone
Anemone sylvestris - Snowdrop Windflower
Anemone canadensis - Canada Anemone
Anemone fulgens - Scarlet Windflower
Anemone pulsatilla - Pasque Flower
Anemone apennina - Apennine Windflower
Growing Anemones
Different Anemones have different growing requirements. Most Anemones should be planted in the fall. If the planted Anemone is tuberous, separate the tubers in summer, when the plant is dormant. If rhizomatous, separate the rhizomes in spring. If the Anemone has fibrous roots, divide the plant in early spring or autumn but keep the plant in the pot for a year until established.
Windflowers should be grown in very well-drained, moderately fertile soil in a lightly shaded or sunny location.
Plant the tubers in the fall or spring, unless you live north of their adapted zones; in this case, plant in the spring.
Before planting, soak the tubers for a few hours or overnight; if you soak them overnight, you will be able to see the slightly swollen areas from which shoots will grow.
Plant the tubers 3 to 4 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart.
If not sure which end is up, lay them on their sides.
Anemone Plant Care
Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system.
For a neat appearance, remove old foliage before new leaves emerge.
Divide clumps every 2 to 3 years in early spring.
Cut right back to the ground in late Autumn. They will shoot away again in Spring.
Facts About Anemones
The name Anemone comes from Greek and roughly means wind flower, which signifies that the wind that blows the petal open will also, eventually, blow the dead petals away.
The Anemone plants are perennial herbs with an underground rootstock, and radical, more or less deeply cut leaves.
The elongated flower stem bears one or several, white, red, blue or rarely yellow flowers. There is an involucre of three leaflets below each flower.
The fruits often bear long hairy styles, which aid their distribution by the wind. They produce cup-shaped yellowish, white, purple, violet, or red Anemone flowers.
Among the most popular are the autumn-flowering Japanese Anemone (Anemone hupehensis).
Yellow wood anemone (Anemone ranunculoides), also known as the Buttercup Anemone, is a similar plant with slightly smaller flowers of rich yellow colouring.
In medicine, Anemone is used as a treatment for cramps, menstrual problems and emotional distress.
Varieties of Anemone
Broadly, there are three types of Anemone flowers-
Spring flowering type, which has either rhizomes or tubers.
Tuberous Mediterranean, which flowers in spring and summer.
Larger Fall flowering type, which blooms in late summer to fall and tends to have fibrous roots.
Anemone Species
Popular species of Anemones and their common names are as follows:
Anemone blanda - Blue Anemone
Anemone coronaria - Poppy Anemone
Anemone hupehensis - Chinese Anemone
Anemone hupehensis var. japonica - Japanese Anemone
Anemone narcissiflora - Narcissus Anemone
Anemone nemorosa - Wood Anemone
Anemone ranunculoides - Yellow Woodland Anemone/buttercup anemone
Anemone sylvestris - Snowdrop Windflower
Anemone canadensis - Canada Anemone
Anemone fulgens - Scarlet Windflower
Anemone pulsatilla - Pasque Flower
Anemone apennina - Apennine Windflower
Growing Anemones
Different Anemones have different growing requirements. Most Anemones should be planted in the fall. If the planted Anemone is tuberous, separate the tubers in summer, when the plant is dormant. If rhizomatous, separate the rhizomes in spring. If the Anemone has fibrous roots, divide the plant in early spring or autumn but keep the plant in the pot for a year until established.
Windflowers should be grown in very well-drained, moderately fertile soil in a lightly shaded or sunny location.
Plant the tubers in the fall or spring, unless you live north of their adapted zones; in this case, plant in the spring.
Before planting, soak the tubers for a few hours or overnight; if you soak them overnight, you will be able to see the slightly swollen areas from which shoots will grow.
Plant the tubers 3 to 4 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart.
If not sure which end is up, lay them on their sides.
Anemone Plant Care
Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system.
For a neat appearance, remove old foliage before new leaves emerge.
Divide clumps every 2 to 3 years in early spring.
Cut right back to the ground in late Autumn. They will shoot away again in Spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Alstroemeria, commonly called the Peruvian Lily or Lily of the Incas or Parrot Lily is a South American genus of about 50 species of flowering plants, mainly from the cool, mountainous regions in the Andes.
Some Interesting Facts about Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria flowers bloom during late spring or early summer.
Alstroemeria come in orange, pink, rose, purple, red, yellow, white or salmon colors.
Alstroemeria is named after the Swedish botanist Klas von Alstroemer, who was a pupil of the great botanical classifier Linnaeus.
The genus Alstroemeria consists of about 50 species.
Most modern hybrid Alstroemeria plants are propagated in a laboratory.
Many hybrids and about 190 cultivars of Alstroemeria have been developed, with different markings and colors, ranging from white, golden yellow, orange; to apricot, pink, red, purple and lavender.
Alstroemeria flowers have no fragrance.
Alstroemeria flowers have a vase life of about two weeks.
Not all Alstroemeria have striped petals.
Alstroemeria stops producing flowers if they get too hot.
About the Alstromeria Flower and Plant
Alstroemeria is a slightly zygomorphic (bilaterally symmetrical) flower with 3 sepals and 3, generally, striped petals. The sepals and petals on the Alstroemeria are similar in color and texture - i.e., there are no solid green sepals. Alstroemeria has six stamens and an undivided style. The ovary on the Alstroemeria is inferior, with 3 carpels. Alstroemeria features a monocot plan of having floral parts in 3s.
Alstroemeria is more like grass where the veins go up the leaves but none branching across. This can also be seen in grasses, Irises and Lilies. Alstroemeria leaves are upside down. The leaf twists as it leaves the stem, so that the bottom is facing upwards.
If you look at an Alstroemeria stem you can sometimes see a spiral growth pattern on the stem. This is due to the production of new cells in a spiral sequence and this is the cause of the head moving the way it does.
If the soil temperature rises too high (above about 22 degrees Celsius) the Alstroemeria plant puts its effort into producing more large tuberous roots at the expense of flowering shoots. With some varieties this can lead to production of exclusively blind non-flowering stems and no flowers.
Some Species of Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria aurea - Lily of the Incas.
Alstroemeria aurantiaca - Peruvian Lily/Alstroemeria Princess Lily
Alstroemeria caryophyllacea - Brazilian Lily
Alstroemeria haemantha - Purplespot Parrot Lily
Alstroemeria ligtu - Lily-of-the-Nile
Alstroemeria psittacina - Lily of the Incas, White-edged Peruvian Lily/White Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria pulchella - Parrot Lily, Parrot Flower, Red Parrot Beak, New Zealand Christmas Bell
Growing Alstroemerias
Plant Alstroemeria in full sun, in well-drained soil.
Add a light application of organic fertilizer to the planting hole.
Place the plants no deeper than they were growing in the containers.
Set the plants 1 foot apart.
Mulch around but not on top of the plants, with 3 inches of organic compost.
Water well until soil is completely moist.
Alstroemeria Plant Care
Cut off old flower stems with bypass pruners.
Mulch around but not on top of the plants in early spring, with 3 inches of organic compost.
Water well weekly until soil is completely moist especially summers, when there is no rain.
Some Interesting Facts about Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria flowers bloom during late spring or early summer.
Alstroemeria come in orange, pink, rose, purple, red, yellow, white or salmon colors.
Alstroemeria is named after the Swedish botanist Klas von Alstroemer, who was a pupil of the great botanical classifier Linnaeus.
The genus Alstroemeria consists of about 50 species.
Most modern hybrid Alstroemeria plants are propagated in a laboratory.
Many hybrids and about 190 cultivars of Alstroemeria have been developed, with different markings and colors, ranging from white, golden yellow, orange; to apricot, pink, red, purple and lavender.
Alstroemeria flowers have no fragrance.
Alstroemeria flowers have a vase life of about two weeks.
Not all Alstroemeria have striped petals.
Alstroemeria stops producing flowers if they get too hot.
About the Alstromeria Flower and Plant
Alstroemeria is a slightly zygomorphic (bilaterally symmetrical) flower with 3 sepals and 3, generally, striped petals. The sepals and petals on the Alstroemeria are similar in color and texture - i.e., there are no solid green sepals. Alstroemeria has six stamens and an undivided style. The ovary on the Alstroemeria is inferior, with 3 carpels. Alstroemeria features a monocot plan of having floral parts in 3s.
Alstroemeria is more like grass where the veins go up the leaves but none branching across. This can also be seen in grasses, Irises and Lilies. Alstroemeria leaves are upside down. The leaf twists as it leaves the stem, so that the bottom is facing upwards.
If you look at an Alstroemeria stem you can sometimes see a spiral growth pattern on the stem. This is due to the production of new cells in a spiral sequence and this is the cause of the head moving the way it does.
If the soil temperature rises too high (above about 22 degrees Celsius) the Alstroemeria plant puts its effort into producing more large tuberous roots at the expense of flowering shoots. With some varieties this can lead to production of exclusively blind non-flowering stems and no flowers.
Some Species of Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria aurea - Lily of the Incas.
Alstroemeria aurantiaca - Peruvian Lily/Alstroemeria Princess Lily
Alstroemeria caryophyllacea - Brazilian Lily
Alstroemeria haemantha - Purplespot Parrot Lily
Alstroemeria ligtu - Lily-of-the-Nile
Alstroemeria psittacina - Lily of the Incas, White-edged Peruvian Lily/White Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria pulchella - Parrot Lily, Parrot Flower, Red Parrot Beak, New Zealand Christmas Bell
Growing Alstroemerias
Plant Alstroemeria in full sun, in well-drained soil.
Add a light application of organic fertilizer to the planting hole.
Place the plants no deeper than they were growing in the containers.
Set the plants 1 foot apart.
Mulch around but not on top of the plants, with 3 inches of organic compost.
Water well until soil is completely moist.
Alstroemeria Plant Care
Cut off old flower stems with bypass pruners.
Mulch around but not on top of the plants in early spring, with 3 inches of organic compost.
Water well weekly until soil is completely moist especially summers, when there is no rain.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月06日
Description: This perennial plant is ¾-1½' tall and unbranched. It is usually erect, but sometimes sprawls across the ground. The central stem is light green and hairy; it rarely twines about the stems of adjacent plants, fences, or other objects. Alternate leaves about 1½-3" long and about one-half as much across occur along the central stem. They are yellowish green to dull green, oblong-cordate in shape, smooth along their margins, and slightly to moderately hairy. The leaf bases are usually cordate (less often truncate or rounded), while their tips are blunt or pointed. Each leaf usually has a short petiole about ½" long or less; sometimes the upper leaves are sessile. Occasionally, individual flowers develop from the axils of the leaves; there are 1-4 flowers per plant. Each flower is about 2-3" long and 2" across, consisting of a white (rarely pink) funnelform corolla with 5 shallow lobes, 5 light green sepals, several stamens, and a pistil with 2 white stigmata. At the base of the flower, 2 sepal-like bracts surround the sepals; these bracts are light green and ovate. The pedicel is 1" long or less.
The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid-summer and lasts about 1-2 months. On any given day, only 0-1 flowers are in bloom per plant. Each large flower opens up during the early morning and closes at around noon; it lasts only a single day. Fertilized flowers are replaced by globoid seed capsules; each capsule is 2-celled and about 1/3" across. Each cell of the capsule contains a single large seed. The root system is rhizomatous, occasionally forming vegetative offsets.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, dry conditions, and soil containing sand, rocky material, or clay.
Range & Habitat: The native Erect Bindweed is found primarily in central and northern Illinois, where it is uncommon (see Distribution Map). Populations of this species have declined across the state. Habitats consist of upland sand prairies, gravel prairies, hill prairies, open rocky woodlands, limestone glades, and roadside embankments. Erect Bindweed tends to increase in response to occasional wildfires as this reduces woody vegetation and excess debris. This is an indicator plant of high quality prairies.
Faunal Associations: Little is known about floral-faunal relationships for Erect Bindweed, although there is some information available about its more weedy relatives, e.g. Calystegia sepium (Hedge Bindweed). The flowers are cross-pollinated primarily by miscellaneous long-tongued bees. The caterpillars of Agrius cingulatus (Pink-Spotted Hawk Moth) require bindweed as a food source; the caterpillars of Emmelina monodactyla (Common Plume Moth) and Bedellia somnulentella (Morning Glory Leafminer) also feed on the foliage of species in the Bindweed family. Several beetles feed on the foliage and other parts of these same species: Typophorus nigritus (Sweet Potato Leaf Beetle), Strongylocassis atripes and other tortoise beetles, Chaetocnema confinis (Sweet Potato Flea Beetle), the stem-boring beetle Phaea monostigma, and the seed weevil Megacerus discoidus. One insect, Charidotella sexpunctata (Golden Tortoise Beetle), has been found on the foliage of Erect Bindweed specifically. There are also records of upland gamebirds eating the seeds of bindweed species: the Bobwhite, Ring-Necked Pheasant, and Prairie Chicken.
Photographic Location: The Coneflower Hill Prairie near Lake Shelbyville in Moultrie County, Illinois. The flowers are mostly closed because the photograph was taken after the blooming period during the morning.
Comments: Unlike Erect Bindweed, most species in the Bindweed family are long twining vines that are adapted to thickets, overgrown meadows, and similar habitats. Most of these species are weedy annuals, although Ipomoea pandurata (Wild Sweet Potato) is a perennial with a tuberous swollen root. Species that are twining vines produce large showy flowers in abundance. While the flowers of Erect Bindweed are also large and showy, they are sparingly produced. All of these species have short-lived flowers that remain open during the morning of a single day. Other common names of Calystegia spithamaea are Dwarf Bindweed, Low Bindweed, and Low False Bindweed. An older scientific name of this species is Convolvulus spithamaeus.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月06日
Description: This herbaceous perennial plant is 1-2½' tall. Young plants develop from a single central stem, while older plants tiller at the base, sending up multiple erect to ascending stems from a large taproot. These stems are unbranched below, becoming branched above where the flowers occur. The stems are light green to dull reddish purple, terete, and more or less covered with spreading hairs. Densely distributed along these stems, are alternate leaves that differ little in size. These leaves are 2½–3½" long and ½–¾" across; they are linear-oblong to lanceolate-oblong in shape, while their margins are entire (toothless). The tips of the leaves are acute, while their bases are slightly cordate, truncate, or rounded. The leaves are sessile, or they have short petioles up to 3 mm. long. The upper leaf surface is medium to dark green and glabrous to sparsely short-pubescent, while the lower leaf surface is light to light-medium green and mostly short-pubescent. Along the lower sides of the major veins, this pubescence is somewhat longer. The foliage of this plant lacks a milky latex. Usually several umbels of flowers develop from the upper stems and the axils of upper leaves. These umbels span 1–2½" across, consisting of 8-25 flowers each; they are slightly dome-shaped and often horizontally adjacent to each other.
Each flower consists of 5 sepals, 5 petals, 5 hoods with horns, and a central reproductive column that is white to light green and short. The sepals are light green, hairy, and lanceolate in shape; they are largely hidden when the flowers open. The petals are more or less orange, lanceolate in shape, and declined (bent downward). The hoods are more or less orange, erect, and curved-ovate, forming open oblique tubes. The horns are more or less orange, sickle-shaped, incurved, and exserted from the hoods (one horn per hood). Usually the petals, hoods, and horns are orange, but sometimes they are reddish orange or yellowish orange. The pedicels are ¾–1½" long, light green or light reddish purple, terete, and more or less covered with spreading hairs. At the base of these pedicels, there are several spreading bracts up to 8 mm. long; they are green, linear-lanceolate in shape, and pubescent. The peduncles of the umbels are ½–2½" long, light green to dull reddish purple, terete, and hairy. The flowers bloom during early to mid-summer and sometimes a second time during late summer to early autumn. The flowers are relatively long-lasting, but they have no noticeable fragrance. Flowers that have been successfully cross-pollinated are replaced by follicles (seedpods that open along one side). These follicles are 4-6" long and ½–¾" across at maturity; they are initially light green, but later turn brown. The follicle surface is smooth and short-pubescent. These follicles eventually split open to release their seeds to the wind. Mature seeds are about 4 mm. long, flattened-oval in shape, brown, and narrowly winged along their margins; the apices of these seeds have large tufts of white hair. The root system consists of a woody taproot that is thick and knobby. This taproot can extend several feet below the ground surface.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic to dry conditions, and an acidic soil that is sandy or rocky. However, this plant will adapt to other kinds of soil, including those that contain loam or clay, if they are well-drained. Although this plant develops somewhat slowly, it is easy to cultivate in open sunny areas once it becomes established. Tolerance to hot dry weather is excellent. If the taproot of a young plant is planted too close to the soil surface, it may become damaged by frost due to heaving of the soil.
Range & Habitat: The native Butterfly Milkweed is occasional to locally common in Illinois, except for the western section of the state, where it is less common (see Distribution Map). Habitats include upland sand prairies, hill prairies, cemetery prairies, sandy savannas, open rocky woodlands, shale and sandstone glades (in southern Illinois), abandoned sandy fields, roadside embankments, and areas along railroads. Because of the showy orange flowers, Butterfly Milkweed is often cultivated in gardens. This milkweed is found in both disturbed areas and high quality natural areas. Occasional wildfires are probably beneficial in maintaining populations of this plant as this reduces competition from woody vegetation and taller herbaceous vegetation.
Faunal Associations: The flower nectar attracts honeybees, digger bees (Melissodes spp.), leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), Halictid bees (including green metallic bees), thread-waisted wasps (Ammophila spp.) and other Sphecid wasps, and butterflies, including Fritillaries (Speyeria spp.), Swallowtails (Papilio spp.), and the Monarch (Danaus plexippus); see Robertson (1929). The Ruby-throated Hummingbird is also attracted to the flowers. Some insects feed destructively on the leaves, flowers and buds, seedpods, and other parts of Butterfly Milkweed. These insects include larvae of the Blackened Milkweed Beetle (Tetraopes melanurus), the Small Milkweed Bug (Lygaeus kalmii), the Large Milkweed Bug (Oncopeltus fasciatus), larvae of a butterfly, the Monarch (Danaus plexippus), and larvae of a moth, the Unexpected Cycnia (Cycnia inopinatus). Butterfly Milkweed is the preferred host plant of the preceding moth (see Yanega, 1996; Betz et al., 1997; Wagner, 2005). A polyphagous insect, the Curve-tailed Bush Katydid (Scudderia curvicauda), was observed to feed on the leaves of this milkweed (Gangwere, 1961); it may also feed on the flowers. While the foliage of Butterfly Milkweed lacks the toxic milky latex that is typical of other milkweeds (Asclepias spp.), mammalian herbivores nonetheless appear to avoid it.
Photographic Location: The above photographs were taken at the webmaster's wildflower garden, Urbana, Illinois, and a flower garden at the Anita Purvis Nature Center of the same city.
Comments: This is perhaps the showiest of the milkweeds (Asclepias spp.) because of the long-lasting and colorful flowers. Because Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa) is the only milkweed in Illinois that has orange flowers, it is easy to identify. This species is also unusual for a milkweed because its leaves are alternate and its foliage lacks a milky latex. Because of the absence of milky latex, it is often referred to as Butterfly Weed, rather than Butterfly Milkweed. The thick and bitter-tasting roots were used for various medicinal purposes in the past, including the treatment of pleurisy. As a result, another common name for this species is Pleurisy Root.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Phaseolus vulgaris
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Green beans are delicious eaten fresh off the plant or incorporated into a recipe.
The main difference between bush and pole beans is the plants’ growing styles: bush beans tend to grow more compactly and do not require support, while pole beans will vine and need to be grown up stakes or trellises. Bush beans generally require less maintenance and are easier to grow, but pole beans typically yield more beans and are very disease resistant.
PLANTING
Pole beans will grow as a climbing vine that may reach up to 15 feet tall. Therefore, pole beans require a trellis or staking. Bush beans will spread up to 2 feet, but do not require support. Watch this video to learn how to support beans properly.
Do not start seeds indoors; they may not survive transplanting.
Seeds can be sown outdoors anytime after the last spring frost; minimum soil temperature is 48 degrees F. Plant 1 inch deep in normal soil, and a little deeper for sandier soils. Cover soil to warm if necessary.
Bush beans: Plant 2 inches apart.
Pole beans: Set up trellises, or “cattle panels,” and plant 3 inches apart.
If you like pole beans, an easy support for them is a “cattle panel”—a portable section of wire fence—16 feet long and 5 feet tall. The beans will climb with ease and you won’t have to get into contorted positions to pick them.
For a harvest that lasts all summer, sow beans every 2 weeks. If you’re going to be away, skip a planting. Beans do not wait for anyone.
Rotate crops each year.
CARE
Mulch soil to retain moisture; make sure that it is well-drained.
Water regularly, from start of pod to set. Water on sunny days so foliage will not remain soaked.
Beans require normal soil fertility. Only fertilize where levels are low. Begin after heavy bloom and set of pods.
Use a light hand when applying high-nitrogen fertilizer, or you will get lush foliage and few beans.
Weed diligently and use shallow cultivation to prevent disturbing the root systems.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Mexican Bean Beetles
Japanese Beetles
Cucumber Beetles
White Mold
Mosaic Viruses
Woodchucks
Cutworms
Bean blossoms will drop from the plant if the weather is too hot, and too much nitrogen in the soil will prevent pods from setting.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Green beans are delicious eaten fresh off the plant or incorporated into a recipe.
The main difference between bush and pole beans is the plants’ growing styles: bush beans tend to grow more compactly and do not require support, while pole beans will vine and need to be grown up stakes or trellises. Bush beans generally require less maintenance and are easier to grow, but pole beans typically yield more beans and are very disease resistant.
PLANTING
Pole beans will grow as a climbing vine that may reach up to 15 feet tall. Therefore, pole beans require a trellis or staking. Bush beans will spread up to 2 feet, but do not require support. Watch this video to learn how to support beans properly.
Do not start seeds indoors; they may not survive transplanting.
Seeds can be sown outdoors anytime after the last spring frost; minimum soil temperature is 48 degrees F. Plant 1 inch deep in normal soil, and a little deeper for sandier soils. Cover soil to warm if necessary.
Bush beans: Plant 2 inches apart.
Pole beans: Set up trellises, or “cattle panels,” and plant 3 inches apart.
If you like pole beans, an easy support for them is a “cattle panel”—a portable section of wire fence—16 feet long and 5 feet tall. The beans will climb with ease and you won’t have to get into contorted positions to pick them.
For a harvest that lasts all summer, sow beans every 2 weeks. If you’re going to be away, skip a planting. Beans do not wait for anyone.
Rotate crops each year.
CARE
Mulch soil to retain moisture; make sure that it is well-drained.
Water regularly, from start of pod to set. Water on sunny days so foliage will not remain soaked.
Beans require normal soil fertility. Only fertilize where levels are low. Begin after heavy bloom and set of pods.
Use a light hand when applying high-nitrogen fertilizer, or you will get lush foliage and few beans.
Weed diligently and use shallow cultivation to prevent disturbing the root systems.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Mexican Bean Beetles
Japanese Beetles
Cucumber Beetles
White Mold
Mosaic Viruses
Woodchucks
Cutworms
Bean blossoms will drop from the plant if the weather is too hot, and too much nitrogen in the soil will prevent pods from setting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Chlorophytum Comosum
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
FLOWER COLOR: White
Spider Plants or Airplane Plants produce arched green and pale yellow stems that extend to be 12-18 inches long. When less than a year old, Spider Plants may produce tiny white flowers during the summer. These easy-to-grow plants look especially nice in a hanging basket.
PLANTING
Grow in soil-based potting mix in bright to moderate sunlight, but not directly facing hot sun.
Maintain average room temperature and humidity.
CARE
During growth, water occasionally; once fully developed (within one year), water moderately.
In the spring and summer months keep the soil moist. Do not let soil dry out.
Fertilize twice a month in the spring and summer, however, avoid overfertilization.
PESTS/DISEASES
Prone to tip burn from dry soil or salt and fluoride found in some public water. Keep the soil slightly moist. Avoid using fluoridated water.
To rid of the brown discs on leaves, use your fingernail to remove the brown residue every few days.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
FLOWER COLOR: White
Spider Plants or Airplane Plants produce arched green and pale yellow stems that extend to be 12-18 inches long. When less than a year old, Spider Plants may produce tiny white flowers during the summer. These easy-to-grow plants look especially nice in a hanging basket.
PLANTING
Grow in soil-based potting mix in bright to moderate sunlight, but not directly facing hot sun.
Maintain average room temperature and humidity.
CARE
During growth, water occasionally; once fully developed (within one year), water moderately.
In the spring and summer months keep the soil moist. Do not let soil dry out.
Fertilize twice a month in the spring and summer, however, avoid overfertilization.
PESTS/DISEASES
Prone to tip burn from dry soil or salt and fluoride found in some public water. Keep the soil slightly moist. Avoid using fluoridated water.
To rid of the brown discs on leaves, use your fingernail to remove the brown residue every few days.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME:
Crassula argentea, Crassula ovata
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
With its thick, woody stems and oval-shaped leaves, jade plants have a miniature tree-like appearance that is very appealing. They live a very long time, often reaching heights of three feet or more when grown indoors.
Though jade plants like the warm, dry conditions found in most homes, they are not as drought tolerant as other succulent species. It’s important to keep the soil moist (but never damp).
PLANTING
Plant in a sturdy container with an all-purpose soil blend. Use a soil that will drain thoroughly, as excessive moisture may promote root rot.
A cactus mix with some organic matter will do. You can also make a mix of one part sterilized organic soil, one part sphagnum peat moss, and three parts coarse sand by volume
Jade plants are known to have very thick stems and may eventually become top-heavy, so plan ahead by planting in a wide and sturdy pot.
CARE
Place jade do need 4 or more hours of sunlight each day; kitchens and offices with a south-facing window are typically great spots with just enough light.
Jade plants grow best at room temperature (65 to 75°F), but prefer slightly cooler temperatures at night and in the winter (55°F).
Keep soil moist but not wet during active growth in the spring and summer. Allow soil to dry between waterings in the winter. Avoid splashing water on the leaves while watering.
If shedding or brown spots occur on the leaves, it is an indication that the plant needs more water.
Jade plants may be fertilized three to four times a year with a standard liquid houseplant fertilizer.
During the winter months, move the plants away from cold windowpanes and out of drafts.
Jade plants do not mind being root-bound. If the plant gets top-heavy and you need to move to a larger pot, transplant when new growth starts. Let the soil dry before repotting and wait four months before fertilizing any repotted plants.
PESTS/DISEASES
Mealybugs may hide under stems and leaves. To remove the bugs, use a spray bottle of water or wipe the insects off gently with a bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel or cotton swab.
Powdery mildew is a common problem.
Root rot is due to excessive moisture in the soil.
Leaf drop is a sign of a thirsty plant in need of more frequent watering.
Crassula argentea, Crassula ovata
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
With its thick, woody stems and oval-shaped leaves, jade plants have a miniature tree-like appearance that is very appealing. They live a very long time, often reaching heights of three feet or more when grown indoors.
Though jade plants like the warm, dry conditions found in most homes, they are not as drought tolerant as other succulent species. It’s important to keep the soil moist (but never damp).
PLANTING
Plant in a sturdy container with an all-purpose soil blend. Use a soil that will drain thoroughly, as excessive moisture may promote root rot.
A cactus mix with some organic matter will do. You can also make a mix of one part sterilized organic soil, one part sphagnum peat moss, and three parts coarse sand by volume
Jade plants are known to have very thick stems and may eventually become top-heavy, so plan ahead by planting in a wide and sturdy pot.
CARE
Place jade do need 4 or more hours of sunlight each day; kitchens and offices with a south-facing window are typically great spots with just enough light.
Jade plants grow best at room temperature (65 to 75°F), but prefer slightly cooler temperatures at night and in the winter (55°F).
Keep soil moist but not wet during active growth in the spring and summer. Allow soil to dry between waterings in the winter. Avoid splashing water on the leaves while watering.
If shedding or brown spots occur on the leaves, it is an indication that the plant needs more water.
Jade plants may be fertilized three to four times a year with a standard liquid houseplant fertilizer.
During the winter months, move the plants away from cold windowpanes and out of drafts.
Jade plants do not mind being root-bound. If the plant gets top-heavy and you need to move to a larger pot, transplant when new growth starts. Let the soil dry before repotting and wait four months before fertilizing any repotted plants.
PESTS/DISEASES
Mealybugs may hide under stems and leaves. To remove the bugs, use a spray bottle of water or wipe the insects off gently with a bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel or cotton swab.
Powdery mildew is a common problem.
Root rot is due to excessive moisture in the soil.
Leaf drop is a sign of a thirsty plant in need of more frequent watering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Aloe barbadensis
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: RedYellow
The Aloe Vera plant is an attractive succulent with thick, variegated leaves that fan out from its center base. Aloe vera plants are easy to keep and useful, too, as the juice from their leaves will relieve pain from scrapes and burns when applied topically. Keep the aloe vera plant in a pot near a kitchen window for everyday use.
PLANTING
Plant in wide containers with a well-draining potting mix, such as those made for cacti and succulents. Aloe vera plants are hardy, but a lack of proper drainage can cause rot and wilting.
Place in indirect sunlight or artificial light.
CARE
Water aloe deeply, but in order to discourage rot, allow the soil to dry at least 1 to 2 inches deep between waterings. Water even less often in winter.
Aloe vera plants produce offsets—also known as plantlets or “babies”—that can be removed to produce an entirely new plant.
Knock your aloe vera out of its pot and find where the offsets are attached. Sever them from the mother plant with a knife. Allow the cuts on the offsets and the mother plant to callus over for a day or two, then pot them in a standard potting mix. Put in a sunny location. Wait a week to water and keep the soil on the dry side.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aloe vera plants are susceptible to common garden pests, such as mealybugs and scale.
Some common diseases are root rot, soft rot, fungal stem, and leaf rot. Avoid overwatering to prevent these conditions from developing.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: RedYellow
The Aloe Vera plant is an attractive succulent with thick, variegated leaves that fan out from its center base. Aloe vera plants are easy to keep and useful, too, as the juice from their leaves will relieve pain from scrapes and burns when applied topically. Keep the aloe vera plant in a pot near a kitchen window for everyday use.
PLANTING
Plant in wide containers with a well-draining potting mix, such as those made for cacti and succulents. Aloe vera plants are hardy, but a lack of proper drainage can cause rot and wilting.
Place in indirect sunlight or artificial light.
CARE
Water aloe deeply, but in order to discourage rot, allow the soil to dry at least 1 to 2 inches deep between waterings. Water even less often in winter.
Aloe vera plants produce offsets—also known as plantlets or “babies”—that can be removed to produce an entirely new plant.
Knock your aloe vera out of its pot and find where the offsets are attached. Sever them from the mother plant with a knife. Allow the cuts on the offsets and the mother plant to callus over for a day or two, then pot them in a standard potting mix. Put in a sunny location. Wait a week to water and keep the soil on the dry side.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aloe vera plants are susceptible to common garden pests, such as mealybugs and scale.
Some common diseases are root rot, soft rot, fungal stem, and leaf rot. Avoid overwatering to prevent these conditions from developing.
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6
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Zinnia elegans
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: MulticolorOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Zinnias are one of the easiest plants to grow, as they grow quickly and bloom heavily. Zinnia flowers make a massive burst of color in your garden, and they attract butterflies.
Zinnias are annuals, so they grow for one season and make great cutting flowers, but do not come back in subsequent years. They have bright, solitary, daisy-like flowerheads on a single, erect stem. The most common zinnia is “dahlia-flowered” and grows up to three feet tall. Other types are “cactus-flowered.”
Use in an annual or mixed border garden. Smaller zinnias are suitable for edging, windowboxes, or other containers. The narrow-leaf zinnia also works well in hanging baskets.
PLANTING
You should really grow zinnia from seed, as they do not like to be transplanted as nursery plants and do not often thrive. From seed, they will grow very quickly in the right conditions.
Do not seed until the last frost has passed. See your local frost dates.
Choosing a location that gets full sun is essential. Zinnias can stand a minimum daytime temperature of 60 degrees F, and a range of 74 to 84 degrees F is preferred.
Zinnias are adaptable, but the ideal soil is nice and fertile, humus-rich, and well-drained. Soil pH should be between 5.5 and 7.5. If soil is amended with compost, the flowers will grow more quickly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Sow zinnia seeds only ¼-inch deep.
Space plants 4 to 24 inches apart, depending on variety. (Many common varieties are planted 6 inches apart within the row and 2 feet in between rows.) See back of seed package for variety-specific advice.
You’ll see zinnia seedlings in only 4 to 7 days for most varieties.
When seedlings reach three inches tall, thin them so that they’re 6 to 18 inches apart to maximize air circulation.
Sow in succession for a longer flowering display.
CARE
Deadhead zinnia flowers to prolong flowering.
Maintain moderate soil moisture and fertilize lightly.
Zinnias are annuals and will die with the first frost.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bacterial and fungal spots, powdery mildew, and bacterial wilt may affect zinnias. Minimize wetting of foliage to avoid disease.
Caterpillars, mealybugs, and spider mites also cause problems. Avoid spraying and tolerate some leaf damage unless the situation is uncontrolled.
Luckily, zinnias are deer-resistant, so they might help keep nearby flowers from being eaten.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: MulticolorOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Zinnias are one of the easiest plants to grow, as they grow quickly and bloom heavily. Zinnia flowers make a massive burst of color in your garden, and they attract butterflies.
Zinnias are annuals, so they grow for one season and make great cutting flowers, but do not come back in subsequent years. They have bright, solitary, daisy-like flowerheads on a single, erect stem. The most common zinnia is “dahlia-flowered” and grows up to three feet tall. Other types are “cactus-flowered.”
Use in an annual or mixed border garden. Smaller zinnias are suitable for edging, windowboxes, or other containers. The narrow-leaf zinnia also works well in hanging baskets.
PLANTING
You should really grow zinnia from seed, as they do not like to be transplanted as nursery plants and do not often thrive. From seed, they will grow very quickly in the right conditions.
Do not seed until the last frost has passed. See your local frost dates.
Choosing a location that gets full sun is essential. Zinnias can stand a minimum daytime temperature of 60 degrees F, and a range of 74 to 84 degrees F is preferred.
Zinnias are adaptable, but the ideal soil is nice and fertile, humus-rich, and well-drained. Soil pH should be between 5.5 and 7.5. If soil is amended with compost, the flowers will grow more quickly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Sow zinnia seeds only ¼-inch deep.
Space plants 4 to 24 inches apart, depending on variety. (Many common varieties are planted 6 inches apart within the row and 2 feet in between rows.) See back of seed package for variety-specific advice.
You’ll see zinnia seedlings in only 4 to 7 days for most varieties.
When seedlings reach three inches tall, thin them so that they’re 6 to 18 inches apart to maximize air circulation.
Sow in succession for a longer flowering display.
CARE
Deadhead zinnia flowers to prolong flowering.
Maintain moderate soil moisture and fertilize lightly.
Zinnias are annuals and will die with the first frost.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bacterial and fungal spots, powdery mildew, and bacterial wilt may affect zinnias. Minimize wetting of foliage to avoid disease.
Caterpillars, mealybugs, and spider mites also cause problems. Avoid spraying and tolerate some leaf damage unless the situation is uncontrolled.
Luckily, zinnias are deer-resistant, so they might help keep nearby flowers from being eaten.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Sedum
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
There are many varieties of sedum plants, which makes them suitable for almost all types of garden designs. Use low–growing sedum varieties as ground covers and in rock gardens, and taller varieties for back borders. Sedums are hardy, easy to care for, and make great cut flowers, too.img src="1000305683_1000013406_1501995887.jpg">
PLANTING
Plant sedum seeds in early spring in well-drained, average to rich soil. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Space plants between 6 inches and 2 feet apart, depending on the variety.
Low-growing and vigorous species will tolerate partial shade, but most sedum do best in full sun.
You can also plant divisions or cuttings instead of seeds.
For divisions: Dig a hole so that the top of the root ball is level with the surface, then place the plant in the hole and fill it in.
For cuttings: Simply place the cut end into soil and the cutting should have no trouble rooting under proper lighting and watering conditions.
CARE
Once established, sedum plants require little care. Check your plants regularly to make sure they are not too dry and water when needed.
After flowering, cut back the plants to maintain their shape or contain them in one area.
Remember to divide your plants in the spring or fall to control their spread. Throughout the summer, divisions and cuttings root readily.
PESTS/DISEASES
Mealybugs
Scale insects
Slugs
Snails
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
There are many varieties of sedum plants, which makes them suitable for almost all types of garden designs. Use low–growing sedum varieties as ground covers and in rock gardens, and taller varieties for back borders. Sedums are hardy, easy to care for, and make great cut flowers, too.img src="1000305683_1000013406_1501995887.jpg">
PLANTING
Plant sedum seeds in early spring in well-drained, average to rich soil. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Space plants between 6 inches and 2 feet apart, depending on the variety.
Low-growing and vigorous species will tolerate partial shade, but most sedum do best in full sun.
You can also plant divisions or cuttings instead of seeds.
For divisions: Dig a hole so that the top of the root ball is level with the surface, then place the plant in the hole and fill it in.
For cuttings: Simply place the cut end into soil and the cutting should have no trouble rooting under proper lighting and watering conditions.
CARE
Once established, sedum plants require little care. Check your plants regularly to make sure they are not too dry and water when needed.
After flowering, cut back the plants to maintain their shape or contain them in one area.
Remember to divide your plants in the spring or fall to control their spread. Throughout the summer, divisions and cuttings root readily.
PESTS/DISEASES
Mealybugs
Scale insects
Slugs
Snails
4
3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
Rose bushes come in a variety of forms, from climbing roses to miniature rose plants, blooming mainly in early summer and fall.. One way to group roses into classes is according to their date of introduction:
Old roses—also called “old-fashioned roses” and “heirloom roses”—are those introduced prior to 1867. These are the lush, invariably fragrant roses found in old masters’ paintings. There are hundreds of old rose varieties—whose hardiness varies—providing choices for both warm and mild climates.
Modern hybrid roses are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance.
Species, or wild, are those that have been growing wild for many thousands of years. These wild roses have been adapted to modern gardens and usually bloom in the spring.
PLANTING
Preparing the Soil
Roses prefer a near-neutral pH range of 5.5–7.0. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens (slightly acidic to neutral).
An accurate soil test will tell you where your pH currently stands. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with ground sulfur.
Before you plant, be sure that you choose varieties proven in your climate. When in doubt, All-America Rose Selections winners are good bets. Or check with your local nursery.
Ordering Plants
If you order roses from a mail-order company, order early, in January or February (March at the latest). They are usually shipped in the spring as bare roots when plants are fully dormant, well before they have leafed out. They’ll look like a bundle of sticks on arrival. Note that they are not dead—simply dormant.
If you are buying container-grown roses (vs. bare-root roses), plant them by May or early June for best results.
Planting Tips
Plant roses where they will receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken gradually. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.
Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from prickly thorns. Have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting tools nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.
Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or fall, but not in midsummer, as they might suffer and die in the heat. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.
When you transplant your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.
Some old-timers recommend placing a 4-inch square of gypsum wallboard and a 16-penny nail in the hole to provide calcium and iron, both appreciated by roses.
CARE
Watering Roses
Diligently water your roses. Soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly.
Roses love water—but don’t drown them. That is, they don’t like to sit in water, and they’ll die if the soil is too wet in winter. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.
Use mulch. To help conserve water, reduce stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.
Feeding Roses
Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen).
Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. See our fertilizer guide for more information.
In May and June, scratch in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.
Pruning Roses
Prune roses every spring and destroy all old or diseased plant material. Wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released.
Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears, for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.
Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects.
Late in the season, stop deadheading rugosas so that hips will form on the plants; these can be harvested and dried on screens, away from sunlight, then stored in an airtight container. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before the first hard frost so as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.
Winterizing Roses
Do not prune roses in the fall. Simply cut off any dead or diseased canes.
Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first frost but continue watering during dry autumn weather to help keep plants fortified during the dry winter.
Mound, mulch, or add compost after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves.
Don’t use heavy, wet, maple leaves for mulch. Mulch instead with oak leaves, pine needles, compost, or straw.
Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea.
PESTS/DISEASES
Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:
Japanese Beetles
Aphids: To keep aphids away from roses, plant garlic and mint around the roses.
Black Spot: Rose plant leaves with black spots that eventually turn yellow have black spot, often caused by water splashing on leaves, especially in rainy weather. Leaves may require a protective fungicide coating, which would start in the summer before leaf spots started until first frost. Thoroughly clean up debris in the fall, and prune out all diseased canes.
Powdery Mildew: If leaves, buds, and stems are covered with a white powdery coating, this is a mildew disease; mildew develops rapidly during warm, humid weather. During new growth, prevent mildew by spraying or dusting canes and leaf surfaces with fungicide. Prevent mildew by pruning out all dead or diseased canes in the spring. Destroy all diseased parts during the growing season.
Botrytis Blight: If the rose’s flower buds droop, stay closed, or turn brown, it has this grey fungus. Prune off all infected blossoms and remove any dead material. Fungicide application may be necessary.
Spider Mites
Thrips
Rust
Stem Borers
Deer: Roses are a delectable tidbit, so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender will discourage browsers. You can also spread human or dog hair around the garden area or check our list of deer-resistant plants to protect your roses.
In general, avoid rose issues by buying disease-resistant varieties and cleaning up debris, weeds, fallen leaves and any diseased plant material as soon as possible.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
Rose bushes come in a variety of forms, from climbing roses to miniature rose plants, blooming mainly in early summer and fall.. One way to group roses into classes is according to their date of introduction:
Old roses—also called “old-fashioned roses” and “heirloom roses”—are those introduced prior to 1867. These are the lush, invariably fragrant roses found in old masters’ paintings. There are hundreds of old rose varieties—whose hardiness varies—providing choices for both warm and mild climates.
Modern hybrid roses are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance.
Species, or wild, are those that have been growing wild for many thousands of years. These wild roses have been adapted to modern gardens and usually bloom in the spring.
PLANTING
Preparing the Soil
Roses prefer a near-neutral pH range of 5.5–7.0. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens (slightly acidic to neutral).
An accurate soil test will tell you where your pH currently stands. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with ground sulfur.
Before you plant, be sure that you choose varieties proven in your climate. When in doubt, All-America Rose Selections winners are good bets. Or check with your local nursery.
Ordering Plants
If you order roses from a mail-order company, order early, in January or February (March at the latest). They are usually shipped in the spring as bare roots when plants are fully dormant, well before they have leafed out. They’ll look like a bundle of sticks on arrival. Note that they are not dead—simply dormant.
If you are buying container-grown roses (vs. bare-root roses), plant them by May or early June for best results.
Planting Tips
Plant roses where they will receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken gradually. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.
Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from prickly thorns. Have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting tools nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.
Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or fall, but not in midsummer, as they might suffer and die in the heat. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.
When you transplant your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.
Some old-timers recommend placing a 4-inch square of gypsum wallboard and a 16-penny nail in the hole to provide calcium and iron, both appreciated by roses.
CARE
Watering Roses
Diligently water your roses. Soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly.
Roses love water—but don’t drown them. That is, they don’t like to sit in water, and they’ll die if the soil is too wet in winter. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.
Use mulch. To help conserve water, reduce stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.
Feeding Roses
Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen).
Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. See our fertilizer guide for more information.
In May and June, scratch in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.
Pruning Roses
Prune roses every spring and destroy all old or diseased plant material. Wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released.
Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears, for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.
Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects.
Late in the season, stop deadheading rugosas so that hips will form on the plants; these can be harvested and dried on screens, away from sunlight, then stored in an airtight container. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before the first hard frost so as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.
Winterizing Roses
Do not prune roses in the fall. Simply cut off any dead or diseased canes.
Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first frost but continue watering during dry autumn weather to help keep plants fortified during the dry winter.
Mound, mulch, or add compost after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves.
Don’t use heavy, wet, maple leaves for mulch. Mulch instead with oak leaves, pine needles, compost, or straw.
Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea.
PESTS/DISEASES
Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:
Japanese Beetles
Aphids: To keep aphids away from roses, plant garlic and mint around the roses.
Black Spot: Rose plant leaves with black spots that eventually turn yellow have black spot, often caused by water splashing on leaves, especially in rainy weather. Leaves may require a protective fungicide coating, which would start in the summer before leaf spots started until first frost. Thoroughly clean up debris in the fall, and prune out all diseased canes.
Powdery Mildew: If leaves, buds, and stems are covered with a white powdery coating, this is a mildew disease; mildew develops rapidly during warm, humid weather. During new growth, prevent mildew by spraying or dusting canes and leaf surfaces with fungicide. Prevent mildew by pruning out all dead or diseased canes in the spring. Destroy all diseased parts during the growing season.
Botrytis Blight: If the rose’s flower buds droop, stay closed, or turn brown, it has this grey fungus. Prune off all infected blossoms and remove any dead material. Fungicide application may be necessary.
Spider Mites
Thrips
Rust
Stem Borers
Deer: Roses are a delectable tidbit, so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender will discourage browsers. You can also spread human or dog hair around the garden area or check our list of deer-resistant plants to protect your roses.
In general, avoid rose issues by buying disease-resistant varieties and cleaning up debris, weeds, fallen leaves and any diseased plant material as soon as possible.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum majus
PLANT TYPE: Flower
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Nasturtium is an easy-to-grow annual whose leaves and flowers are edible. Here’s how to grow your own nasturtiums!
These plants, with their bright greenery and vibrant flowers, are good for containers or as ground cover. Their pretty fragrance also makes them a good choice for cut flowers. Nasturtiums are perfect to grow with children because they grow so easily and rapidly.
PLANTING
You can start the seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Plant nasturtium seeds in early spring in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. They can grow in partial shade, but they will not bloom as well.
Nasturtiums prefer poorer soils and they do not need fertilizers (unless your soil is extremely poor). Fertile soil will produce fewer blooms and more foliage.
Plant the seeds about half an inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. Plants should appear in 7 to 10 days.
CARE
Water regularly throughout the growing season, but be careful not to over-water your plants.
Cutting off the faded/dead flowers will prolong blooming.
If you’re growing nasturtiums in containers, they may need to be trimmed back occasionally over the growing season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Caterpillars
Aphids
Slugs
Whiteflies
Viruses
PLANT TYPE: Flower
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Nasturtium is an easy-to-grow annual whose leaves and flowers are edible. Here’s how to grow your own nasturtiums!
These plants, with their bright greenery and vibrant flowers, are good for containers or as ground cover. Their pretty fragrance also makes them a good choice for cut flowers. Nasturtiums are perfect to grow with children because they grow so easily and rapidly.
PLANTING
You can start the seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Plant nasturtium seeds in early spring in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. They can grow in partial shade, but they will not bloom as well.
Nasturtiums prefer poorer soils and they do not need fertilizers (unless your soil is extremely poor). Fertile soil will produce fewer blooms and more foliage.
Plant the seeds about half an inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. Plants should appear in 7 to 10 days.
CARE
Water regularly throughout the growing season, but be careful not to over-water your plants.
Cutting off the faded/dead flowers will prolong blooming.
If you’re growing nasturtiums in containers, they may need to be trimmed back occasionally over the growing season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Caterpillars
Aphids
Slugs
Whiteflies
Viruses
1
0
