文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
What is volutella blight on plants? Also known as leaf and stem blight, volutella blight is a destructive disease that affects pachysandra plants and boxwood shrubs. Early diagnosis and vigilant plant care are the keys to volutella blight control. Read on to learn about treating volutella blight. Volutella Blight Symptoms Initial symptoms, which appear in early spring, frequently resemble winter injury. Volutella blight symptoms begin with delayed emergence of new growth and patches of wilted, discolored, yellow, red or bronze leaves that gradually increase in size before turning black and falling from the plant.
Greenish-brown, water-soaked cankers girdle the stems, causing the plant to shrivel and wilt as the cankers turn dark black or brown. Pinkish fungal spores often appear during humid weather. Volutella Blight Treatment Prune damaged growth.
Wipe cutting tools with bleach solution or rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spread of disease. Shake or rake the plant to remove infected leaves, then destroy the debris. Although fungicide sprays won’t cure volutella blight, application of lime sulfur or copper sprays may help in case of severe infestations. Spray plants just before growth appears in spring, and then continue throughout the growing season as directed on the label. Plants may benefit from an additional volutella blight treatment in autumn to protect late summer growth. Remove plants if the blight is overly severe.
Replace them with more disease-resistant shrubs or ground covers. Volutella Blight Control and Prevention To prevent volutella blight, keep plants healthy and minimize stress with regular trimming, which improves air circulation and increases penetration of sunlight. Trim plants during dry weather. Water plants in the morning so the foliage has plenty of time to dry before temperatures drop later in the day, as volutella blight is more prevalent in wet, humid conditions. Avoid heavy mulch, which may keep the growing environment overly damp. Treat insect infestations as they appear, and clean beds and rake plant debris in autumn.
Greenish-brown, water-soaked cankers girdle the stems, causing the plant to shrivel and wilt as the cankers turn dark black or brown. Pinkish fungal spores often appear during humid weather. Volutella Blight Treatment Prune damaged growth.
Wipe cutting tools with bleach solution or rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spread of disease. Shake or rake the plant to remove infected leaves, then destroy the debris. Although fungicide sprays won’t cure volutella blight, application of lime sulfur or copper sprays may help in case of severe infestations. Spray plants just before growth appears in spring, and then continue throughout the growing season as directed on the label. Plants may benefit from an additional volutella blight treatment in autumn to protect late summer growth. Remove plants if the blight is overly severe.
Replace them with more disease-resistant shrubs or ground covers. Volutella Blight Control and Prevention To prevent volutella blight, keep plants healthy and minimize stress with regular trimming, which improves air circulation and increases penetration of sunlight. Trim plants during dry weather. Water plants in the morning so the foliage has plenty of time to dry before temperatures drop later in the day, as volutella blight is more prevalent in wet, humid conditions. Avoid heavy mulch, which may keep the growing environment overly damp. Treat insect infestations as they appear, and clean beds and rake plant debris in autumn.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Gardeners know that any manner of disease can befall their prized plants. In the case of Armillaria root rot, fungi are the underlying cause and the disease can be fatal. Armillaria root rot symptoms can by sly, starting out slowly with slowed growth and culminating with wood rot and mortality. Recognizing the disease and implementing a process of Armillaria root rot control can slow the disease. More information can be found by reading the article below. What is Armillaria Root Rot? Armillaria affects many ornamental and edible plants. What is Armillaria root rot? The disease is found through temperate and tropical regions of the world. Symptoms can be difficult to identify because the fungus responsible for the disease attacks roots deep in the soil. Once the disease has started to progress, it can be difficult or even impossible to arrest its effects. Armillaria stems from its mycelium harbored in the earth. The disease can persist for many years before above-ground symptoms emerge.
Typical Armillaria root rot symptoms can vary from species to species, making the disease even more difficult to nip in the bud. Additionally, the fungus spreads in groves or stands of trees from plant to plant through rhizomorphs, very similar to root rhizomes. It can also spread when mechanical soil movement occurs and transfers diseased wood chips. This makes the disease that much more insidious and challenging to manage. Armillaria Root Rot Symptoms One of the first symptoms of the disease is usually wilted, limp foliage. Leaves or needles yellow and fall, while upper limbs experience die-back. Definite diagnosis of the disease may involve cutting into the cambium of the affected tree.
The fungus appears in cambium as whitish in color and has a distinctly mushroom-like odor. Affected conifers may develop a bumper crop of cones, known as stress cones, and any sick tree is prone to attack by other disease and insect pests. Among the more interesting Armillaria root rot facts, is its natural presence in soil and symbiotic relationship with affected trees. Plants under environmental stress, other disease issues and in incorrect sites will be more quickly symptomatic than trees in excellent health. Armillaria root rot control depends upon early recognition of symptoms and superior cultural care of diseased plants. Treatment for Armillaria Root Rot Sadly, there is no absolute treatment for Armillaria root rot. The disease can be managed by consistent removal of dead trees and infected stumps.
Armillaria requires consistent moisture to survive, and in citrus groves, excavation around the root crown has been an effective deterrent but not an ultimate cure. Providing excellent care to trees has been shown to increase vigor and health, thereby reducing the plant’s symptoms. In large scale forests, affected stands are often removed and replanted with species that are naturally resistant to the disease. Occasionally, chemical fumigants are applied, reducing the spread of the disease. This practice isn’t practical for the home gardener, so cultural management, removal of infected plant material and good sanitation seem to be the best options in the home landscape.
Typical Armillaria root rot symptoms can vary from species to species, making the disease even more difficult to nip in the bud. Additionally, the fungus spreads in groves or stands of trees from plant to plant through rhizomorphs, very similar to root rhizomes. It can also spread when mechanical soil movement occurs and transfers diseased wood chips. This makes the disease that much more insidious and challenging to manage. Armillaria Root Rot Symptoms One of the first symptoms of the disease is usually wilted, limp foliage. Leaves or needles yellow and fall, while upper limbs experience die-back. Definite diagnosis of the disease may involve cutting into the cambium of the affected tree.
The fungus appears in cambium as whitish in color and has a distinctly mushroom-like odor. Affected conifers may develop a bumper crop of cones, known as stress cones, and any sick tree is prone to attack by other disease and insect pests. Among the more interesting Armillaria root rot facts, is its natural presence in soil and symbiotic relationship with affected trees. Plants under environmental stress, other disease issues and in incorrect sites will be more quickly symptomatic than trees in excellent health. Armillaria root rot control depends upon early recognition of symptoms and superior cultural care of diseased plants. Treatment for Armillaria Root Rot Sadly, there is no absolute treatment for Armillaria root rot. The disease can be managed by consistent removal of dead trees and infected stumps.
Armillaria requires consistent moisture to survive, and in citrus groves, excavation around the root crown has been an effective deterrent but not an ultimate cure. Providing excellent care to trees has been shown to increase vigor and health, thereby reducing the plant’s symptoms. In large scale forests, affected stands are often removed and replanted with species that are naturally resistant to the disease. Occasionally, chemical fumigants are applied, reducing the spread of the disease. This practice isn’t practical for the home gardener, so cultural management, removal of infected plant material and good sanitation seem to be the best options in the home landscape.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
One of the more common diseases of lima beans is called pod blight of lima beans. Pod blight in lima bean plants can cause serious losses in yield. 
What causes this lima bean disease and what methods of control are there for lime bean blight? Symptoms of Pod Blight in Lima Bean Plants Symptoms of pod blight of lima beans first manifests as irregular, brown eruptions on fallen petioles in mid-season, and on pods and stems close to maturity. These small, raised pustules are called pycnidia and in wet seasons may cover the entire plant. The upper portions of the plant may yellow and die. Seeds that have become infected may look completely normal or will crack, shrivel and become moldy. Infected seeds often do not germinate. Symptoms of this lima bean disease may be confused with those of anthracnose, as both of these diseases of lima beans occur late in the season.
Conditions Favorable for Lima Bean Blight Pod blight is caused by the fungus Diaporthe phaseolorum, which overwinters in infested crop detritus and in infected seeds. Spores are transferred to plants via wind or splashed water. Thus, although infection can occur throughout the season, this fungus thrives in wet, warm conditions. Pod Blight Control Since the disease overwinters in crop detritus, practice good garden sanitation and clear the beds of any lingering crop debris. Remove any weeds that may also harbor the disease.
Only use seed that is grown in the western United States and use a high quality disease free seed. Do not save seed from the previous year if the disease was evident in the crop. Rotate the crop with non-host crops on a 2 year rotation. Using a copper-type fungicide on a regular basis will help control the disease.
What causes this lima bean disease and what methods of control are there for lime bean blight? Symptoms of Pod Blight in Lima Bean Plants Symptoms of pod blight of lima beans first manifests as irregular, brown eruptions on fallen petioles in mid-season, and on pods and stems close to maturity. These small, raised pustules are called pycnidia and in wet seasons may cover the entire plant. The upper portions of the plant may yellow and die. Seeds that have become infected may look completely normal or will crack, shrivel and become moldy. Infected seeds often do not germinate. Symptoms of this lima bean disease may be confused with those of anthracnose, as both of these diseases of lima beans occur late in the season.
Conditions Favorable for Lima Bean Blight Pod blight is caused by the fungus Diaporthe phaseolorum, which overwinters in infested crop detritus and in infected seeds. Spores are transferred to plants via wind or splashed water. Thus, although infection can occur throughout the season, this fungus thrives in wet, warm conditions. Pod Blight Control Since the disease overwinters in crop detritus, practice good garden sanitation and clear the beds of any lingering crop debris. Remove any weeds that may also harbor the disease.
Only use seed that is grown in the western United States and use a high quality disease free seed. Do not save seed from the previous year if the disease was evident in the crop. Rotate the crop with non-host crops on a 2 year rotation. Using a copper-type fungicide on a regular basis will help control the disease.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Fungus happens. Even the most experienced and dedicated gardeners will experience fungal disease on plants at some point. Fungus can affect plants in any climate and hardiness zone because, like plants, certain fungal spores grow better in different climates.
Even new disease resistant varieties can suffer from these issues. As gardeners, we can choose to spend a fortune on different chemicals that can have residual effects to treat different symptoms or we can use a natural based product that has been used by growers and breeders for hundreds of years.
What is Lime Sulfur? Lime sulfur is a mixture of calcium hydroxide and sulfur. In horticultural dormant sprays, lime sulfur is usually mixed with an oil, like mineral oil, to make it stick to plant surfaces. These horticultural oil sprays contain a high concentration of lime sulfur that is only safe to use on plants that are dormant because the sulfur can burn leaf tissues. Lime sulfur can also be mixed in much weaker concentration with water for use when plants have leafed out. Even in lower concentrations and diluted with water, it is important not to spray lime sulfur on plants during hot, sunny days, as the sulfur can cause sunscald on plants. With warnings like this, you may wonder is lime sulfur safe? When used properly, lime sulfur is a safe and effective treatment of fungal diseases such as: Powdery mildew Anthracnose Black spot Blights Black rot As a horticultural dormant spray, lime sulfur is safe to use even on fruits that include: Raspberries Blackberries Blueberries Apples Peaches Pears Plums Cherries Lime sulfur is also used to treat fungal diseases of ornamental plants like: Roses Dogwoods Ninebark Phlox Rudbeckia.
How and to Use Lime Sulfur Fungal disease spores can overwinter in cracks or fissures on plants or in soil and garden debris. For this reason, lime sulfur is used in high concentrates mixed with oil as a horticultural dormant spray. When to use lime sulfur this way is in late winter or early spring before the plant begins to leaf out. It is also a good idea to spray the soil around plants that have been previously infected or are prone to infection. For perennials or plants that are showing new signs of fungal diseases, lime sulfur can be mixed with water and sprayed on plants anytime except for hot, sunny days. The mixing ratio is 1 tsp. per gallon of water. Spray all surfaces of the plant thoroughly. Allow the mixture to sit on the plants for 15-20 minutes. Then thoroughly rinse the plants with just clear water. Occasionally, you will notice the bottom portion of tree trunks covered with white latex paint. Sometimes, this contains a diluted mixture of lime sulfur.
Even new disease resistant varieties can suffer from these issues. As gardeners, we can choose to spend a fortune on different chemicals that can have residual effects to treat different symptoms or we can use a natural based product that has been used by growers and breeders for hundreds of years.
What is Lime Sulfur? Lime sulfur is a mixture of calcium hydroxide and sulfur. In horticultural dormant sprays, lime sulfur is usually mixed with an oil, like mineral oil, to make it stick to plant surfaces. These horticultural oil sprays contain a high concentration of lime sulfur that is only safe to use on plants that are dormant because the sulfur can burn leaf tissues. Lime sulfur can also be mixed in much weaker concentration with water for use when plants have leafed out. Even in lower concentrations and diluted with water, it is important not to spray lime sulfur on plants during hot, sunny days, as the sulfur can cause sunscald on plants. With warnings like this, you may wonder is lime sulfur safe? When used properly, lime sulfur is a safe and effective treatment of fungal diseases such as: Powdery mildew Anthracnose Black spot Blights Black rot As a horticultural dormant spray, lime sulfur is safe to use even on fruits that include: Raspberries Blackberries Blueberries Apples Peaches Pears Plums Cherries Lime sulfur is also used to treat fungal diseases of ornamental plants like: Roses Dogwoods Ninebark Phlox Rudbeckia.
How and to Use Lime Sulfur Fungal disease spores can overwinter in cracks or fissures on plants or in soil and garden debris. For this reason, lime sulfur is used in high concentrates mixed with oil as a horticultural dormant spray. When to use lime sulfur this way is in late winter or early spring before the plant begins to leaf out. It is also a good idea to spray the soil around plants that have been previously infected or are prone to infection. For perennials or plants that are showing new signs of fungal diseases, lime sulfur can be mixed with water and sprayed on plants anytime except for hot, sunny days. The mixing ratio is 1 tsp. per gallon of water. Spray all surfaces of the plant thoroughly. Allow the mixture to sit on the plants for 15-20 minutes. Then thoroughly rinse the plants with just clear water. Occasionally, you will notice the bottom portion of tree trunks covered with white latex paint. Sometimes, this contains a diluted mixture of lime sulfur.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Just like people, plants are known to feel under the weather now and then. One of the more common signs of ailment is yellowing leaves. When you see leaves turning yellow, it’s time to put your Sherlock hat on and do some sleuthing to find the possible cause and solution. Among the reasons why plant leaves are yellow are environmental conditions, cultural reasons, pests or disease, and even the medium in which the plant grows.
Common Reasons for Leaves Turning Yellow There are many conditions that affect plant growth. Plants are susceptible to temperature variations, sensitive to chemicals and excesses of nutrient, require specific soil compositions and pH levels, have varying lighting needs, are prey to certain pests and diseases, and many other factors influence their health. Yellowing leaves on plants can be a sign of any of these out of balance or even certain nutritional or chemical influences. Plants don’t have facial expressions so they, therefore, can’t express discomfort or displeasure the way we can. What they can do is show dissatisfaction with a condition by signaling with their leaves. So when you find out why plant leaves turn yellow, you can start triaging your ill plant and nurse it back to health. Yellowing leaves on plants may often be a sign of too little or too much water or nutrients which can affect plant performance. Your plant may also be located in too much light where it is scorching, or too little light where it is fading due to an inability to photosynthesize properly. Yellowing also occurs due to blatant physical damage. Age is another cause when plant leaves are yellow. It is quite usual for many types of plants to lose the older leaves as the new ones arrive. Older foliage will turn yellow and often wither before it drops off. Winter dormancy is another condition with which most are familiar that makes yellow plant leaves. Of course, yellow plant leaves may not be the only hue experienced, as autumnal displays of red, orange, bronze and rust are common sights.
Why Plant Leaves Turn Yellow in Containers Because of the closed environment in container plants, the conditions must be carefully controlled. There is a limited amount of space, area to store moisture, nutrient in the medium, and lighting and temperature must be considered for each species of potted plant. Our houseplants often have leaves turning yellow due to nutrient deficiency or excess salt in the soil from too much fertilizer. It may be necessary to change the soil or leach it with large amounts of water to correct the balance. Of course, changing the soil can trigger a condition called transplant shock, which also causes yellowing and dropping leaves. Indoor plants are often tropical in nature and something as simple as changing the plant’s location can produce yellowing leaves on plants which drop off the specimen. This is often due to stress but can also indicate low light or exposure to a draft. The pH may also be too high, causing a condition called chlorosis. It is a good idea to use a pH meter in potted plants to ensure the correct growing conditions. Overhead watering is yet another cause for yellow “water spots” on plants like gloxinia, African violet and several other species of plants with slightly furred foliage. When Plant Leaves are Yellow from Pests or Disease Pinpointing the causes of yellowed leaves can be quite difficult due to all the potential causes. One thing we haven’t gone over are pests and disease. Sucking insects attack plants inside and outside. These encompass: Mites Aphids Mealybugs Thrips Scale Whiteflies Many of these insects are too tiny to see with the naked eye and are identified by the plant’s response to their feeding activity. The insects are robbing the plant of its sap, which is the life blood of the plant.
The plant’s response is a reduction in overall health including stippled and yellowing leaves. Leaves may crinkle at the edges and fall off. In most cases, repeatedly washing the plant to remove the insects or using a horticultural soap or neem oil can combat these little pirates. Root diseases are often found in root bound plants or in soils with poor drainage. Any attack on roots can limit the ability of the plant to uptake moisture and nutrients, severely affecting its health. Roots may simply rot away, leaving the plant with minimal ways to sustain themselves. Withering, fading leaves are a common sight when roots are under attack by root rot disease or even root nematodes. As you can see, there are many causes for yellowing foliage. It is best to familiarize yourself with your plant’s specific needs so you can consider each cultural condition carefully and unearth possible causes. It takes patience, but your plants will love you for it.
Common Reasons for Leaves Turning Yellow There are many conditions that affect plant growth. Plants are susceptible to temperature variations, sensitive to chemicals and excesses of nutrient, require specific soil compositions and pH levels, have varying lighting needs, are prey to certain pests and diseases, and many other factors influence their health. Yellowing leaves on plants can be a sign of any of these out of balance or even certain nutritional or chemical influences. Plants don’t have facial expressions so they, therefore, can’t express discomfort or displeasure the way we can. What they can do is show dissatisfaction with a condition by signaling with their leaves. So when you find out why plant leaves turn yellow, you can start triaging your ill plant and nurse it back to health. Yellowing leaves on plants may often be a sign of too little or too much water or nutrients which can affect plant performance. Your plant may also be located in too much light where it is scorching, or too little light where it is fading due to an inability to photosynthesize properly. Yellowing also occurs due to blatant physical damage. Age is another cause when plant leaves are yellow. It is quite usual for many types of plants to lose the older leaves as the new ones arrive. Older foliage will turn yellow and often wither before it drops off. Winter dormancy is another condition with which most are familiar that makes yellow plant leaves. Of course, yellow plant leaves may not be the only hue experienced, as autumnal displays of red, orange, bronze and rust are common sights.
Why Plant Leaves Turn Yellow in Containers Because of the closed environment in container plants, the conditions must be carefully controlled. There is a limited amount of space, area to store moisture, nutrient in the medium, and lighting and temperature must be considered for each species of potted plant. Our houseplants often have leaves turning yellow due to nutrient deficiency or excess salt in the soil from too much fertilizer. It may be necessary to change the soil or leach it with large amounts of water to correct the balance. Of course, changing the soil can trigger a condition called transplant shock, which also causes yellowing and dropping leaves. Indoor plants are often tropical in nature and something as simple as changing the plant’s location can produce yellowing leaves on plants which drop off the specimen. This is often due to stress but can also indicate low light or exposure to a draft. The pH may also be too high, causing a condition called chlorosis. It is a good idea to use a pH meter in potted plants to ensure the correct growing conditions. Overhead watering is yet another cause for yellow “water spots” on plants like gloxinia, African violet and several other species of plants with slightly furred foliage. When Plant Leaves are Yellow from Pests or Disease Pinpointing the causes of yellowed leaves can be quite difficult due to all the potential causes. One thing we haven’t gone over are pests and disease. Sucking insects attack plants inside and outside. These encompass: Mites Aphids Mealybugs Thrips Scale Whiteflies Many of these insects are too tiny to see with the naked eye and are identified by the plant’s response to their feeding activity. The insects are robbing the plant of its sap, which is the life blood of the plant.
The plant’s response is a reduction in overall health including stippled and yellowing leaves. Leaves may crinkle at the edges and fall off. In most cases, repeatedly washing the plant to remove the insects or using a horticultural soap or neem oil can combat these little pirates. Root diseases are often found in root bound plants or in soils with poor drainage. Any attack on roots can limit the ability of the plant to uptake moisture and nutrients, severely affecting its health. Roots may simply rot away, leaving the plant with minimal ways to sustain themselves. Withering, fading leaves are a common sight when roots are under attack by root rot disease or even root nematodes. As you can see, there are many causes for yellowing foliage. It is best to familiarize yourself with your plant’s specific needs so you can consider each cultural condition carefully and unearth possible causes. It takes patience, but your plants will love you for it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Crinum
Spidery, sweet scented crinum flowers dangle from a central stem, brightening late-summer gardens. The huge leafy plants spring from giant bulbs. The native Southern swamp lily depends on summer rain to set its perfumed flowers in motion. In colder climates, crinums are a botanical curiosity to show off on a summer patio, and then bring indoors to overwinter.
LIGHT:Part Sun, Shade, Sun
TYPE:Bulb
HEIGHT:From 6 inches to 8 feet
WIDTH:To 5 feet wide
FLOWER COLOR:White
SEASONAL FEATURES:Colorful Fall Foliage, Fall Bloom, Spring Bloom, Summer Bloom, Winter Bloom, Winter Interest
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Deer Resistant, Drought Tolerant
SPECIAL FEATURES:Attracts Birds, Cut Flowers, Fragrance, Good for Containers, Low Maintenance
ZONES:7-10
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Canna
Cannas bring tropical splendor to gardens in all regions. These bold plants feature clustered, flaglike blooms in a brilliant color array on tall stems. Recent flower breeding has created canna foliage that is even showier than the petals, with variegated leaf combinations of orange, yellow, and greens that glow in the summer sun. Dwarf cannas are also available for container gardening and other small spaces. Cannas are usually grown from tuberous roots but some newer varieties can also be raised from seed, with flowering guaranteed for the first year.
Cannas provide architectural interest in summer borders and they also flourish along the damp margins of a pond. If you garden in a climate colder than Zone 9 (7 for the hardier types of cannas), you'll need to dig canna plants up and store them bareroot for the next season or overwinter potted specimens indoors. A destructive mottling virus has threatened canna stock in nurseries across the U.S., so be sure to buy your plants from a reputable source.
LIGHT:Part Sun, Shade, Sun
TYPE:Bulb
HEIGHT:From 1 to 8 feet
WIDTH:To 3 feet wide
FLOWER COLOR:Orange, Pink, Red, White, Yellow
FOLIAGE COLOR:Purple/Burgundy
SEASONAL FEATURES:Summer Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Deer Resistant, Good For Privacy, Groundcover, Slope/Erosion Control
SPECIAL FEATURES:Attracts Birds, Fragrance, Good for Containers, Low Maintenance
ZONES:9-11
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Caladium
Providing color pizzazz in dim places where flowers can't, caladiums have come into their own recently with the craze for tropical plants. The clumping, heart-shape leaves are available in a variety of veined patterns in colors from cream to neon pinks, reds, silvers, and greens. Newer introductions bring caladiums out of the shade. The more substantial leaves of the Florida series, with greater heat tolerance, give the splashy caladiums their place in the sun. Plant caladium tubers shallowly in pots, and water sparingly until sprouts appear. They begin to grow vigorously once the weather warms in late spring to early summer.
LIGHT:Part Sun, Shade, Sun
TYPE:Bulb
HEIGHT:From 6 inches to 3 feet
WIDTH:To 24 inches wide
FOLIAGE COLOR:Blue/Green, Purple/Burgundy
SEASONAL FEATURES:Summer Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Groundcover
SPECIAL FEATURES:Good for Containers, Low Maintenance
ZONES:10-11
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Allium
Alliums may be in the onion family, but these top-notch garden plants are anything but utilitarian vegetable-garden residents. Among the most carefree bulbs you can grow, alliums bloom in a wide range of colors (including shades of yellow, white, pink, and purple), seasons, and sizes (from inch-wide heads to volleyball-sized bloom clusters).
Alliums offer whimsical structures and great textural contrasts unique to the late-spring bulb garden. Clustered florets in a globe-shape flower head are held aloft on a thick stem. In the species, loose bouquets of flowers sprout from clustered, hollow stems. The larger allium flower heads are fun focal points for dried arrangements. Plant alliums in any well-drained garden soil in full sun. The smaller types are especially well suited for growing in rock gardens. Plant a few larger hybrids in a pot for a flowering surprise in early summer.
LIGHT:Part Sun, Sun
TYPE:Bulb
HEIGHT:Under 6 inches to 3 feet
WIDTH:To 1 foot wide
FLOWER COLOR:Blue, Pink, White, Yellow
FOLIAGE COLOR:Blue/Green
SEASONAL FEATURES:Spring Bloom, Summer Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Deer Resistant, Drought Tolerant, Groundcover
SPECIAL FEATURES:Attracts Birds, Cut Flowers, Fragrance, Good for Containers, Low Maintenance
ZONES:4-9
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
he Aristolochiacea family of plants are commonly known as Birthworts. They are a small family which occur in tropical and Mediterranean regions.
Aristolochia baetica is very similar to Aristochia sempiverens which occurs in parts of Italy, North Africa and parts of the eastern Mediterranean region. Aristolochia baetica has darker flowers which are more purple in colour, and the leaves of the plant are a blue-green colour.
The plants of the Aristolochiaceae family attract their pollinators (flies) by exuding a strong smell from their flowers which are typically saxaphone-shaped. When the flies crawl down into the flowers, they are trapped by the hairs that surround the 'mouth' and remain, crawling around, inside the flower overnight. By the following morning the hairs have withered and the flies, now covered with pollen, are able to escape and move on to other flowers and so complete the pollination cycle.
Aristolochia baetica is very common in the Algarve in Portugal, and can be found on roadsides and other waste ground where the plants scramble over shrubs and rough stone walls. It flowers from June to August.
Aristolochia baetica is very similar to Aristochia sempiverens which occurs in parts of Italy, North Africa and parts of the eastern Mediterranean region. Aristolochia baetica has darker flowers which are more purple in colour, and the leaves of the plant are a blue-green colour.
The plants of the Aristolochiaceae family attract their pollinators (flies) by exuding a strong smell from their flowers which are typically saxaphone-shaped. When the flies crawl down into the flowers, they are trapped by the hairs that surround the 'mouth' and remain, crawling around, inside the flower overnight. By the following morning the hairs have withered and the flies, now covered with pollen, are able to escape and move on to other flowers and so complete the pollination cycle.
Aristolochia baetica is very common in the Algarve in Portugal, and can be found on roadsides and other waste ground where the plants scramble over shrubs and rough stone walls. It flowers from June to August.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Identification
Unlike other daisy-like flowers, plants of the genus Andryala have large 'petals' on all florets and not just those on the periphery flower head. The plant is extremely hairy and has barrel-shaped buds surrounded with a neatly-arranged single row of hairy bracts.
Growing to between 30 and 75cm in height with branching stems covered in dense, soft white down that gives an overall whitish appearance to the plant, Andryala integrifolia has alternate lanceolate hairy leaves that are often corrugated (with wrinkled wavy margins).
The flowers are hermaphrodite (posessing both male and female reproductive organs), and they are a delicate lemon yellow. Flowers are grouped into corymbs (loose clusters) of typically three to nine composite heads, each head being in the range 1.5 to 8cm across, but most commonly between 2.5 and 5cm across.
Distribution
This wildflower is seen throughout the Mediterranean region. Well known in the Iberian Peninsula, where it is both widespread and common, Andryala integrifolia can be found from north Africa as far east as Greece, Sicily and Italy.
Habitat
This lovely wildflower tends to frequent rather sandy or rocky ground, but it can also be found on heaths, in abandoned farmland, and on some stony roadside verges.
Blooming Times
In the Mediterranean region where it is native, Andryala blooms from April to July.
Uses
A toxic latex within this plant contains hydrogen cyanide, and so no parts of Andryala should ever be eaten.
Unlike other daisy-like flowers, plants of the genus Andryala have large 'petals' on all florets and not just those on the periphery flower head. The plant is extremely hairy and has barrel-shaped buds surrounded with a neatly-arranged single row of hairy bracts.
Growing to between 30 and 75cm in height with branching stems covered in dense, soft white down that gives an overall whitish appearance to the plant, Andryala integrifolia has alternate lanceolate hairy leaves that are often corrugated (with wrinkled wavy margins).
The flowers are hermaphrodite (posessing both male and female reproductive organs), and they are a delicate lemon yellow. Flowers are grouped into corymbs (loose clusters) of typically three to nine composite heads, each head being in the range 1.5 to 8cm across, but most commonly between 2.5 and 5cm across.
Distribution
This wildflower is seen throughout the Mediterranean region. Well known in the Iberian Peninsula, where it is both widespread and common, Andryala integrifolia can be found from north Africa as far east as Greece, Sicily and Italy.
Habitat
This lovely wildflower tends to frequent rather sandy or rocky ground, but it can also be found on heaths, in abandoned farmland, and on some stony roadside verges.
Blooming Times
In the Mediterranean region where it is native, Andryala blooms from April to July.
Uses
A toxic latex within this plant contains hydrogen cyanide, and so no parts of Andryala should ever be eaten.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Description
Bug Orchid plants can grow up to 60 cm in height with dense heads of deep wine-red flowers; they have dark red spots on the lips, which are much paler in the centre. The common name of this orchid apparently refers to the somewhat unpleasant smell of the flowers.
Distribution
Anacamptis coriophora occurs in the Balkans and throughout much of central and southern Europe. This orchid can be found in the Algarve (Portugal), Bulgaria, Greece, Russia, Romania, Germany and several other central European countries including Slovenia,Some authorities recognise a subspecies Anacamptis coriophora subsp. fragrans, which is said to have a sweeter scent and to differ slightly in appearance.
Habitat
The Bug orchid grows in damp meadows and other fairly wet places in full sunshine. It is now rather rare and localised and is in serious decline due to habitat destruction.
Flowering times
Depending on location the flowering time ranges from early May to early July.
Bug Orchid plants can grow up to 60 cm in height with dense heads of deep wine-red flowers; they have dark red spots on the lips, which are much paler in the centre. The common name of this orchid apparently refers to the somewhat unpleasant smell of the flowers.
Distribution
Anacamptis coriophora occurs in the Balkans and throughout much of central and southern Europe. This orchid can be found in the Algarve (Portugal), Bulgaria, Greece, Russia, Romania, Germany and several other central European countries including Slovenia,Some authorities recognise a subspecies Anacamptis coriophora subsp. fragrans, which is said to have a sweeter scent and to differ slightly in appearance.
Habitat
The Bug orchid grows in damp meadows and other fairly wet places in full sunshine. It is now rather rare and localised and is in serious decline due to habitat destruction.
Flowering times
Depending on location the flowering time ranges from early May to early July.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Ramsons, or Wild Garlic as it is sometimes (correctly) called, advertises its presence by its very strong odour, especially if stems are crushed.
Identification
Plants of Ramsons typically have two or three leaves up to 4cm wide and 30cm long. Bulbs form from the base of a leaf stalk. Umbels of garlic-scented white flowers produce capsules that contain the seeds, but reproduction is mainly vegetative rather than via the seeds. The flowers, 1.5 to 2cm across, are star-like and have six white tepals (three petals and three sepals), and they have stamens shorter than the perianth. The triangular-section stems and strong garlic-like odour are helpful features distinguishing young Ramsons plants from those of the seriously poisonous Lily-of-the-Valley.
Distribution
Allium ursinum is common and widespread throughout Britain and Ireland as well as on mainland central and northern Europe. It is recorded also from parts of Asia.
Habitat
Ramsons carpets woodland floors and roadside verges in damp shady places.
Blooming Times
The first few flowers may appear towards the end of March or in early April, but May and early June are when this striking wildflower is at its best in Britain.
Uses
Ramsons, a relative of the cultivated Leek, is an edible plant and has been used in cooking for hundreds of years. It has a more delicate flavour than the garlic cloves with which we are more familiar. Whether Ramsons deters vampires is uncertain, but Ramsons certainly exists!
Identification
Plants of Ramsons typically have two or three leaves up to 4cm wide and 30cm long. Bulbs form from the base of a leaf stalk. Umbels of garlic-scented white flowers produce capsules that contain the seeds, but reproduction is mainly vegetative rather than via the seeds. The flowers, 1.5 to 2cm across, are star-like and have six white tepals (three petals and three sepals), and they have stamens shorter than the perianth. The triangular-section stems and strong garlic-like odour are helpful features distinguishing young Ramsons plants from those of the seriously poisonous Lily-of-the-Valley.
Distribution
Allium ursinum is common and widespread throughout Britain and Ireland as well as on mainland central and northern Europe. It is recorded also from parts of Asia.
Habitat
Ramsons carpets woodland floors and roadside verges in damp shady places.
Blooming Times
The first few flowers may appear towards the end of March or in early April, but May and early June are when this striking wildflower is at its best in Britain.
Uses
Ramsons, a relative of the cultivated Leek, is an edible plant and has been used in cooking for hundreds of years. It has a more delicate flavour than the garlic cloves with which we are more familiar. Whether Ramsons deters vampires is uncertain, but Ramsons certainly exists!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
It is always lovely to find something you had more or less given up hope of ever finding, so we found these Pyramidal Bugloss plants growing in the Pirin Mountains National Park in Bulgaria we were delighted.
Identification
When this member of the Lamiaceae is in bloom you can see at once that the flowers are generally paler than those of Ajuga reptans with which we are much more familiar. The stems are hairy and bear pairs of opposite hairy leaves that form a squarish pyramid, the lower leaves green and the upper leaves increasingly more purple towards the top of the plant.
Typically 15mm long, the blue flowers emerge from large leafy bracts. Unlike the much more common Bugle, which produces runners from which new plants grow, Pyramidal Bugle has rhizomes rather than runners (stolona). The odds are more heavily stacked again this rarity becoming a common wildflower, because although it is a perennial it does not bloom every year.
Distribution
In Britain these rare plants are seen in just a few locations in northern England and Scotland. They are also recorded from The Burren in County Clare, southern Ireland, and from Rathlin Island in the north, but despite much searching to date we have yet to find them in Ireland. On mainland Europe Ajuga pyramidalis is not such a rare find. We have seen these plants in bloom in Bulgaria, and in Slovenia Pyramidal Bugle is plentiful among limestone rocks in the Julian Alps in areas.
Habitat
Pyramidal Bugle is usually found in short-sward grassland overlaying calcareous rocks; it also occurs within grikes in areas of limestone pavement, most often where it is marshy.
Blooming Times
We also found and photographed these plants in the predominantly limestone Julian Alps in Slovenia on trips there in June 2011 and again in late June 2014, and in Bulgaria in the Pirin Mountains National Park in mid June 2009.
In northern Britain and in western Ireland Pyramidal Bugle usually begins flowering in late April and sometimes continues through May and in to early June.
Identification
When this member of the Lamiaceae is in bloom you can see at once that the flowers are generally paler than those of Ajuga reptans with which we are much more familiar. The stems are hairy and bear pairs of opposite hairy leaves that form a squarish pyramid, the lower leaves green and the upper leaves increasingly more purple towards the top of the plant.
Typically 15mm long, the blue flowers emerge from large leafy bracts. Unlike the much more common Bugle, which produces runners from which new plants grow, Pyramidal Bugle has rhizomes rather than runners (stolona). The odds are more heavily stacked again this rarity becoming a common wildflower, because although it is a perennial it does not bloom every year.
Distribution
In Britain these rare plants are seen in just a few locations in northern England and Scotland. They are also recorded from The Burren in County Clare, southern Ireland, and from Rathlin Island in the north, but despite much searching to date we have yet to find them in Ireland. On mainland Europe Ajuga pyramidalis is not such a rare find. We have seen these plants in bloom in Bulgaria, and in Slovenia Pyramidal Bugle is plentiful among limestone rocks in the Julian Alps in areas.
Habitat
Pyramidal Bugle is usually found in short-sward grassland overlaying calcareous rocks; it also occurs within grikes in areas of limestone pavement, most often where it is marshy.
Blooming Times
We also found and photographed these plants in the predominantly limestone Julian Alps in Slovenia on trips there in June 2011 and again in late June 2014, and in Bulgaria in the Pirin Mountains National Park in mid June 2009.
In northern Britain and in western Ireland Pyramidal Bugle usually begins flowering in late April and sometimes continues through May and in to early June.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
This is one of those plants, like for example the Autumn Crocus, Colchicum autumnale, that produce flowers before their leaves appear. When eventually they do appear the leaves are dark green and very thin and strap-like.
Identification
Look out for these lovely wildflowers, which are white and sometimes tinged with pink, in open grassy meadows and rocky or stony ground.
Unlike the Autumn Crocus that flowers at the same time, these plants do not require as much moisture and tolerate quite dry conditions.
Autumn Snowflake flowers from September until the end of November, their growth having been stimulated by the cooler temperatures that arrive later in the year along with the first, and most welcome, rainfalls.
This specimen was photographed in the Algarve in Portugal in November. We found them in the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa which is home to many other lovely plants, birds and animals.
Identification
Look out for these lovely wildflowers, which are white and sometimes tinged with pink, in open grassy meadows and rocky or stony ground.
Unlike the Autumn Crocus that flowers at the same time, these plants do not require as much moisture and tolerate quite dry conditions.
Autumn Snowflake flowers from September until the end of November, their growth having been stimulated by the cooler temperatures that arrive later in the year along with the first, and most welcome, rainfalls.
This specimen was photographed in the Algarve in Portugal in November. We found them in the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa which is home to many other lovely plants, birds and animals.
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