plants第83页 - 绿手指 - 养花技巧、花生病了怎么办、花园打理和设计

Many cactus plants have a sculptural quality to them, little hinting at the amazing show they put on when they bloom. Flowers are usually large for the size of the plant, most staying open just one day. The petals have a shimmering, silky sheen. Colors range from dazzling white to everything but true blue and black, sometimes with several colors in one flower. Most cactus bloom in the spring, opening during the day. A number are pollinated by bats or moths and open at night.

Spring Blooms

Springtime sees most cactus blooming, because temperatures aren't too hot yet, the plants are actively growing after resting all winter and spring rains give them enough water for their extravagant floral display. Even if rains are sparse, cactus draw upon their stored water to flower, but not as abundantly. In Arizona's Sonoran Desert, cactus begin to bloom in March, with April the month of highest flowering. In May prickly pears (Opuntia spp.) flower; they're hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3b through 11.

Summer Shows

Cactus that flower in summer's heat are generally substantial ones with a significant amount of stored water in their bodies. This helps them bloom reliably when daytime temperatures climb. The saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea), which reaches 30 to 50 feet tall, flowers in mid-May to mid-June, when temperatures in its native Sonoran Desert regularly reach over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Many waxy-petaled flowers encircle branch ends and open at night for visits by bats. Saguaros, hardy in USDA zones 9a to 10b, begin to flower when they're 40 to 50 years old. Heavy-bodied barrel cacti (Ferocactus spp.) varieties bloom from spring into summer with yellow, orange or bright red flowers, depending on the species. Fishhook barrel cactus (Ferocactus wislizeni) grows to 5 feet tall in USDA zones 8 through 11.

Night Bloomers

Cactus flowers that open at night help the plant conserve water; in warm months, it's coolest at night. Peruvian apple cactus (Cereus repandus) typifies a moth-pollinated flower, with its 5-inch diameter, trumpet shape and sweet fragrance. It blooms most abundantly in spring, with fall rebloom possible. The columnar blue-green cactus reaches 20 feet tall and branches from the base. The cactus needs frost protection in USDA zone 9, and is hardy in zones 10 and 11. Night blooming cereus (Hylocereus undatus) displays another large moth-pollinated white flower. It blooms in spring and summer on flattened stems that resemble long, scalloped leaves. This cactus is cultivated for its oval, red fruits, called dragonfruit, and is hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11.

Christmas Cactus

This familiar houseplant announces its season of bloom through its common name. With its flattened, leaf-like stem, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) grows as an epiphyte in tropical forests of southeastern Brazil. Many hybrids and cultivars now exist, with red, white, pink, purple, peach and salmon-colored blooms that usually occur in winter. The plant responds to long nights with over 13 hours of darkness each night and cool night temperatures, prompting it to bloom right around Christmastime when it's grown as a temperate-climate houseplant. Hardy to USDA zones 10 through 12, Christmas cactus flowers best when it is slightly pot-bound. It is also called Thanksgiving cactus or Easter cactus, because it can be manipulated to bloom at those seasons of the year.

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The look of a cactus can be quite deceiving. Spiny, leafless desert cacti, mostly native to North and South America, transform into some of the most dazzling plants when in bloom. Belonging to the Cactaceae plant family, more than 1,000 different species of cacti exist, including those of the tropical variety that are indigenous to Brazil.

Desert Cultivars

Following a period of about five years, bright yellow blossoms with red throats -- the flowers' tubular organs -- appear on small sea urchin cacti (A. asterias). Compass barrel cacti (F. cylindraceus) boast bell-shaped, orange and yellow flowers. Buds on the Claret Cup Hedgehog (E. triglochidiatus) burst open into vivid scarlet hues. The Rose Pincushion cactus (M. zeilmanniana) produces reddish-violet blossoms and, on the small, Snowball Pincushion variety (M. candida), rings of cream-colored flowers turn to pink.

Tropical Holiday Cacti

Christmas cacti bloom on the stem tips.

Blooming in white and a multitude of colors including red, lavender, orange, pink and yellow, Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti (S. truncata and S. bridgesii), as well as the Easter cactus (R. gaertneri), create showy holiday displays. These tropical cacti bloom in abundance and sport wide, flat, leaf-like stems. Thanksgiving cacti flower through the holiday and well into January. Christmas cactus blossoms open on the stem tips and bloom for long periods in cooler temperatures. Blooming mainly in spring, Easter cacti may flower at other times during the year.

Night-blooming Cacti

Cactus flowers grow from the area of the plant known as the cephalium. Column cacti (C. uruguayanus) bloom at night in white with petal tips of diverse colors. The night-flowering orchid cactus of the Epiphyllum species produces blossoms in multiple hues during late summer and early autumn. The sweetly scented flowers of the orchid cactus can reach a length of 6 inches or more.

Pollination

In daytime, brightly colored cactus blossoms attract bees and hummingbirds.

The brilliant hues of cactus blossoms attract daytime pollinators such as bees and hummingbirds. Dim light reflecting from the soft colors of night-blooming cacti, along with the plants' heady scent, draw moths and bats for pollination. In southwestern North America's Sonoran Desert, the fragrant blossoms of saguaro (C. gigantea) and organ pipe cacti (S. thurberi) lure bats to their sweet nectar. The bats emerge from their nectar feast covered in pollen, contributing to the pollination process as they fly from flower to flower.

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Succulent jade plants are popular houseplants because they are easy to care for and rarely suffer from pests or diseases. A healthy jade plant has plump, green leaves with glossy surfaces. If your jade plant has white dots or spots on its leaves, this could be a sign of insect infestation or incorrect growing conditions. Investigate any potential problem straightaway before it has a chance to spread.

Mealy Bugs

Mealy bugs are small, soft-bodied insects up to 1/4 inch long. They are covered with a layer of white dust or filaments that are mobile. Mealy bugs gather on new stems and on the undersides of jade plant roots. Treat mealy bugs by dabbing them with a paintbrush dipped in a 70 percent solution of rubbing alcohol. Deal with severe infestations by using a systemic insecticide formulated for houseplants.

Salt

Jade plants naturally develop small crystals of salt on their leaves. The salt is absorbed through the roots and excreted by the leaves. It dries into small, white dots. You can't prevent these but you can remove them with a damp cloth. Flush out the soil of your jade plant with plenty of water if it is covered with a white crust of salt.

Oedema

Jade plants that receive too much water suffer from a condition known as oedema. The first symptom is develop blisters on the leaves. These pop and form small, corky spots that go from yellowish-white to brown. Reduce watering of jade plants showing signs of oedema. The spots that are already present are permanent but no new ones will appear. Oedema is most common on jade plants during the winter.

Other Causes

Water drops drying on jade plant leaves leave white spots on their surfaces, especially in hard-water areas. Wipe them off with a damp cloth. Jade plants exposed to household chemical sprays or hot cooking oil may also develop discolored spots on the leaves. Indoor jade plants kept in a humid room such as a bathroom sometimes develop powdery mildew on their leaves in the winter. Decrease the local humidity levels or increase the airflow around the plant to prevent it from growing again.

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Jade plants (Crassula ovata) can be grown from a single leaf and end up over 5 feet tall. They have fleshy branches and rounded, glossy leaves. As succulents, they require little water but grow best in bright light with some direct sunshine. Jade plants lose older leaves naturally but an increase in the rate of leaf loss is often the first sign of a problem.

Underwatering

Jade plants that are not receiving enough water often shed their older leaves. If the lower leaves on your plant are shriveling up and then falling off, check its soil. If it is completely dry, water your plant thoroughly. Water a jade plant every time the top inch of its soil is completely dry. Jade plants add leaves and shoots during the summer and need more water during the hot summer months.

Overwatering

Succulent jade plants are vulnerable to rot and must never be left with their pot standing in water. Check your plant's soil if its leaves turn yellow and start to drop off. Do not apply any more water until it has dried out completely. Remove the plant from its pot if you notice any soft sections on the trunk or branches. Wash all the soil off the roots and place it on a windowsill for a week. Cut off any branches or roots that are soft and repot in cactus potting mix.

Light

If your jade is losing its lower leaves at the beginning of winter this is likely to be because of low light. Move your plant closer to a window to increase light levels. Jade plants that are kept close to a window will shed leaves if they touch the glass on very hot or very cold days. Keep the plant a few inches back from the glass.

Temperature

Keep jade plants above 50 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter as cold temperatures will damage the leaves. Frost will kill your jade plant completely. Jade plants will shed leaves if they are placed in a cold draft or close to a radiator. A sudden change in temperature caused by a move will also cause leaf drop. The leaves will grow back once your plant has adapted to its new surroundings.

Leaf Shine

Never use leaf shine products on jade plants as it will cause all their leaves to turn yellow and fall off. Household chemicals and cleaners have a similar effect if they touch the leaves. Jade plant leaves shine naturally if they are dust free and the plant is healthy.

Pests

Jade plants are vulnerable to infestations of mealy bugs and scale insect. Mealies and scale make jade leaves sticky and can encourage the growth of molds. They also cause leaf drop and deformed leaves. Treat mealies and scale by dabbing them with a paintbrush dipped in a 70 percent solution of rubbing alcohol.

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While most cacti are very heat and drought tolerant, Christmas cacti are a little different. They are more like tropical plants than desert plants, so they're not as drought tolerant as the typical cactus. They also keep their beautiful blooms much longer in cooler temperatures. Many gardeners enjoy the challenge of keeping their Christmas cactus healthy throughout the year so they can enjoy their blossoms each Christmas season. This is harder than most would think, but with proper watering and maintenance it's entirely possible to enjoy your Christmas cactus for many Christmases.

There are not strict guidelines as to how often you should water your cactus. Instead, monitor the plant to determine when watering is necessary. According to Purdue University Extension's newsletter, you should, "water thoroughly when the top inch or so of soil feels dry to the touch." You may also notice the plant beginning to wilt if it goes too long without water. Purdue's Extension Service also notes that, "the length of time between waterings will vary with the air temperature, amount of light, rate of growth and relative humidity."
Transplant

If your cactus dries out often or the flowers seem to wilt frequently, you may need to transplant it into a bigger container, rather than continually water it. To survive and thrive, Christmas cacti must have soil that drains easily. Purdue's newsletter recommends either purchasing potting soil mix for succulents or making your own by, "combining two parts plain potting soil with one part clean sand or vermiculite."
Provide Correct Environment

While properly watering your Christmas cactus is important, it's also important for it to live in the correct environment. For example, keep it away from drafts from fireplaces and heat vents, and place it in a well-lit location. These two things are particularly important if you want your cactus to bloom. Extreme temperature change or drafts can make flower buds fall off the plant before they've even had a chance to open.
Fertilize

In addition to proper watering, to further the likelihood that your Christmas cactus survives throughout the year, you should periodically fertilize it. Purdue's Extension Service recommends to simply use a fertilizer made for blooming houseplants and to follow the directions on the label for how and when to apply it. There is no need to fertilize the plant while it's in bloom.

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Yucca plants grow in either a tree form or a shrub form. Tree yuccas are tall growing trees that have thick fibrous leaves on the tips of their branches. Common tree yuccas are Spanish bayonet (Yucca aloifolia) and the Joshua tree (Yucca brevifolia). Shrub yuccas, like the hairy yucca (Yucca filamentosa), are low-growing spiky plants that form rosettes of thick fibrous leaves that sprout from a central point. After both yucca plants bloom, a brown flower stalk is left behind. The flowering stalk should be removed from the plant if you do not wish for the plant to produce seed. Often, shrub yucca plants turn brown and then die after they flower, but new plants emerge around the dead rosette.

Step 1

Put on leather gardening gloves and prune off the dead and dying leaves in the spring with sharp pruning shears. Avoid pulling the leaves off the plant as this causes damage.

Step 2

Remove the flower stalk after it has dried, which is usually in late summer. Cut the flower stalk 3 to 4 inches above the center of the rosette with sharp pruning shears. Remove the severed flowering stalk and discard. Pull the stalk out from the center of the plant only if the center is rotted and the stalk can be easily removed.

Step 3

Pull the dead yucca plant out of the ground gently when you notice new plants forming around it. Use caution not to disturb the newly emerged plants.

Flowering Stalk Removal of Tree Yuccas

Step 4

Prune off only dead or dying leaves with pruning shears. Removing green leaves damages the tree. Wear leather gloves to protect your hands.

Step 5

Cut the flower stalk panicles off the tree after a few weeks of blooming if you live in a wet area. Cut the panicles 3 to 4 inches from the center of the leaves with sharp pruning shears. Dead flower stalks will fall off the tree leaving behind a hole where water can get into the heart of the plant and rot it out from the inside.

Step 6

Cut the flowing stalks anytime if you live in a dry climate. Cut the stalk panicles 3 to 4 inches from the center of the leaves with sharp pruning shears. It is not harmful to leave the flowering stalks on the tree if you live in an arid area that does not receive much rain.

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The best way to keep your cactus from turning brown is to ensure that its environment is one that's conducive to growing a healthy plant. Quarantine new plants and inspect them for pests and disease before exposing them to your other plants. Provide loose, clean, well-drained soil. Underwater, don't overwater, your plants.

Root Rot

If the base of your cactus is turning brown and the stems are soft and yellow, it could be a sign of root rot. Plants with root rot can be hard to save because the rot starts inside the cactus and works its way out, so symptoms aren't usually noticed until the rot is advanced. Stop watering plants with early rot, and try repotting them in well-draining soil. You can try saving a plant with advanced root rot by cutting away all signs of rot along with some of the healthy tissue surrounding it to ensure that it doesn't spread. Use a clean knife and wipe it with alcohol in between cuts. Apply sulfur powder to the wounds. Overwatering or damaged roots can cause root rot.

Scales

Scales are small insects that appear like brown spots on cacti because of their hard brown shell coverings. The scales feed on plant juices, weakening cacti and making them look yellow. Spray your cactus with a stream of water to remove scales, or wash your plant with a weak solution of detergent. Use malathion insecticide for large infestations. You can also kill scales by using a cotton swab to dab horticultural oil on each scale. This cuts off the scale's air supply so it suffocates.

Mites

Red spider mites are small reddish insects. They're so small that it's easier to look for their webs rather than the bugs themselves. Symptoms include white spots that turn rusty brown and usually appear at the top of the plant. If left untreated, mites kill your cactus by eating the entire outer layer of tissue off your plant. Water cacti from overhead with a strong stream of water to remove mites. Miticides can be used for large infestations.

Corking

The appearance of firm, brown, barklike tissue just above the soil of an otherwise healthy plant is a sign of corking and is part of the natural aging process of cacti. Corking always starts from the base of the cactus and moves upward. If a cactus turns brown from the top down, it's a sign of sunburn or some other problem.

Sunburn

Mild sunburn problems appear as a whitish discoloring, usually at the top and side facing the sun. Severe burns show up as hard brown scars on the burned surface. Cacti with brown scars have permanent damage. If your plant only has whitish discoloring, you can heal it by moving it into the shade. Cacti that aren't used to being in the sun have to be acclimated to it by providing full sun for a short time each day and then increasing exposure over a period of several weeks. Some species should never have full sun all day.

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Succulent plants tend to have tough leaves and stems rarely troubled by pests. Insects, however, sometimes infest new growth and can cause long-term disfigurement. Small black insects on succulent plants could be aphids or ants associated with them, or hempitera bugs. Indoor potted succulents can also host sciarid flies in their soil.

Aphids

Black aphids or blackfly infest the young leaves and flower shoots of succulents. They are small, soft-bodied insects up to 1/16 inch long and form colonies. Treat aphids with a spray based on insecticidal soap. Clemson University horticulture specialist Janet McLeod Scott advises testing any chemical on a small section of your plant and leaving it for 48 hours to make sure it is not toxic.

Ants

Ants do not damage succulents but may visit them to feed on the nectar in flowers. Ants also feed on a sweet substance produced by aphids and in return, tend aphid colonies and protect them from predators. Remove ants from succulents by treating the aphids that attract them.

Sciarid Flies

Sciarid flies or soil midges are tiny flying insects that live in damp soil and leaf litter. They are not common around succulents because they favor damp soil but can be a nuisance around indoor succulents. Sciarid fly larvae occasionally feed on the roots and lower stems of succulent plants. Treat sciarid flies by allowing the soil around your succulents to dry out and by avoiding peat-based composts.

Hemiptera Bugs

Hemiptera bugs are small, mobile insects with sucking mouthparts. Several species feed on succulents such as yuccas and cacti. Among them, Hesperolabops gelastop has a reddish colored head and blackish body. It lives in small groups on the upper surfaces of succulent leaves and causes pale blotches up to 1/2 inch across. Some yucca plants have Halticotoma bugs infestations, according to Texas A&M University professor Bastiaan M. Drees. They are 1/4 inch long with dark-gray bodies. Halticotoma bugs live in groups and scatter quickly when disturbed. Treat hemiptera bugs with a systemic insecticide containing dinotefuran or imidacloprid, applied in the spring.

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Cacti are slow-growing succulent plants with well-developed vascular systems, or systems that transport food and water through the system. Thanks to this system, if a piece breaks off the cactus, there are several options to salvage it, whether it is grafting or planting the piece as a new specimen.

Grafting

Broken pieces often have jagged edges and damaged tissues, so if you were to simply put the broken piece back onto the cactus and bind it in place, chances for success are low. If the wounded end on the broken piece and the stub were cut evenly with a sharp knife and you bind the broken piece into place on the stub, the chances of the cactus healing are much greater. This is because of the ease of grafting cactus plants and the very high probability of cacti of the same species grafting successfully. Alternately, you may graft the broken piece onto another cactus, preferably of the same species.

Planting Pieces

You can also plant broken pieces to create new cacti. It is best, however, to let the broken piece scab over for a few days in a warm, dry area with good circulation to prevent problems with fungal disease entering along the broken edge. Alternately, you may dip the broken edge in an anti-fungal sulfur solution. If the piece broke off because of disease or infection of the main plant, remove the diseased parts with a sharp, disinfected knife first, or the disease will claim the broken piece as well.

Aesthetics

Grafting leaves scars. This isn't a big problem if you have a sectioned cactus and it was a whole section that broke off. For many cacti, however, a broken section grafted back into place looks wounded, even if the graft heals. It may be better to trim the stub back to a section further down or closer to the main section of the cactus, depending on the type of cactus, and then re-attach the broken piece. If you will plant the broken piece for a new cactus or simply dispose of it altogether, it helps to trim the cactus, if possible, to remove jagged edges or odd-looking stumps.

Considerations

If the break is next to or on the base of the cactus, it is usually easier to simply allow the broken cactus piece to scab over and then re-plant it rather than try to get a graft to take. The wound is susceptible to fungal infection, especially if the soil is moist or comes into contact with the grafting joint.

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Cacti are suited to dry, arid environments, and nearly all their problems are related to water. Even most diseases that affect cactus plants attack when moisture levels are wrong. Although some cacti will shrivel during the winter months as part of their life cycle, most causes of shriveling are related to improper watering or moisture levels.

Water

By far, most problems with cactus are caused by overwatering, but the opposite extreme of not enough water will cause shriveling. A cactus that is too dry to sustain its flesh will begin to shrink, causing the skin to crinkle and the entire plant to appear shriveled.

Proper Amount of Water

The proper amount of water for a cactus depends on the time of year and weather conditions. Generally, provide a good watering that soaks into the soil several inches for the cactus plant once per month. The soil should be allowed to drain and become completely dry between watering. When the cactus is in a fast growth phase or is blooming, generally in spring, water may be needed more often, up to twice per month.

Proper Soil

In addition to the right amount of water, a cactus plant also requires the proper type of soil. Heavy, moist soils will cause problems. The soil should be sandy and drain quickly. Most varieties of cactus prefer a mixture of sand and small pebbles. The right soil will keep moisture at the right level for the cactus and prevent shriveling.

Dormancy

Even with the best care, some varieties of cactus will shrivel once per year as they go into a dormant state for several months. This typically occurs during the winter months when temperatures drop. If an otherwise healthy cactus that normally does well on the amount of water received begins to shrivel, it is probably going into a dormant period. When the weather warms up, it will return to its normal state.

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While there are numerous diseases affecting plants, the plant disease fire blight, which is caused by bacteria (Erwinia amylovora), affects trees and shrubs in orchards, nurseries, and landscape plantings; therefore, no one is safe from its path. Plant Disease: Fire Blight The plant disease fire blight is oftentimes influenced by seasonal weather and generally attacks the plant’s blossoms, gradually moving to the twigs, and then the branches. Fire blight gets its name from the burnt appearance of affected blossoms and twigs.

Fire Blight Symptoms
The symptoms of fire blight can appear as soon as trees and shrubs begin their active growth. The first sign of fire blight is a light tan to reddish, watery ooze coming from the infected branch, twig, or trunk cankers. This ooze begins to turn darker after exposure to air, leaving dark streaks on the branches or trunks. Fire blight infections often move into twigs and branches from infected blossoms. The flowers turn brown and wilt and twigs shrivel and blacken, often curling at the ends. In more advanced cases of fire blight infection, cankers begin to form on branches. These discolored oozing patches contain masses of fire blight bacteria and heavy infections can be fatal.

Fire Blight Remedies
Fire blight bacteria is spread through various easily means such as rain or water splashing, insects and birds, other infected plants, and unclean gardening tools. The maximum risk of exposure to this bacterium is late spring or early summer as it emerges from dormancy. Unfortunately, there is no cure for fire blight; therefore, the best fire blight remedies are regular pruning and removal of any infected stems or branches. It may also help to avoid overhead irrigation, as water splashing is one of the most common ways to spread the infection. Special attention should also be given to garden tools, especially those that have been exposed to the bacteria. Tools should be sterilized in an alcohol solution containing three parts denatured alcohol to one part water. Ethanol and denatured alcohol are very different. While ethanol alcohol is not poisonous and quite safe to use, denatured alcohol is a toxic solvent oftentimes used as Shellac thinner. Diluted household bleach (one part bleach to nine parts water) can also be used. Always make sure to thoroughly dry tools to prevent corrosion. It sometimes helps to oil them down as well.

Fire Blight Treatment Since there are no curing fire blight remedies, fire blight is very difficult to control; however, one fire blight treatment to reduce it is by spraying. A variety of bactericides has been developed to combat fire blight, although chemicals to treat fire blight may not always be effective. For instance, fixed copper products are often used as a fire blight treatment but this only reduces the bacteria’s ability to survive and reproduce. Always read and follow instructions carefully before using any chemicals to treat fire blight. Since chemicals aren’t always effective in fire blight control, organic control, such as extensive pruning may be the only option for fire blight treatment.

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Plant rust is a general term that refers to a rather large family of fungi that attack plants. Frequently, when a plant is affected by rust fungi, many gardeners feel at a loss as to what to do. Rust treatment as a plant disease is startling but can be treated.

Symptoms of Plant Rust
Rust fungi are very easy to identify on the plant. The disease can be characterized by a rust color on plant leaves and stems. The rust will start out as flecks and will eventually grow into bumps. The plant rust will most likely appear on the underside of the leaves of the plant. The good news is that there are so many kinds of rust fungi and they are so plant specific, that if you see the rust color on plant leaves of one type of plant, you will not see it appear any other types of plants in your yard.

Rust Treatment for This Plant Disease
For rust fungi, prevention is the best defense. Rust thrives in a wet environment, so do not overwater your plants. Also, make sure your plants have good air circulation inside the branches and around the plant itself. This will help it dry its leaves faster. If plant rust does affect your plant, remove affected leaves at the first sign of rust color on plant leaves. The faster the affected leaves can be removed, the better chance your plant has for survival. Be sure to dispose of these leaves. Do not compost them. Then treat your plant with a fungicide, such as neem oil. Continue to remove leaves and treat the plant until all signs of the plant rust are gone.

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From indoor and outdoor gardeners alike, one of the most common gardening questions is, Why do my plants have spotted and brown leaves? And while there are many reasons for plain old brown spots, when those spots look like little brown bull’s-eyes, the answer my friends, is fairly simple , organism-wise that is. Those plant leaf spots are caused by one of nature’s most basic organisms: a fungus. Plants with Spotted Leaves Fungal leaf spot can be found in your outdoor garden as well as on your houseplant. Spotted leaves occur when fungal spores in the air find a warm, wet, plant surface to cling to. As soon as that microscopic spore gets comfortable in its new home, sporulation (the fungal method of reproduction) occurs and the tiny brown fungal leaf spot begins to grow. Soon the circle grows large enough to touch another circle and now the fungal leaf spot looks more like a blotch. Eventually the leaf turns brown and falls to the soil where the spores sit and wait for the next available warm, wet, plant surface so the fungal leaf spot process can begin again.

Preventing Plant Leaf Spots
There are a few easy steps you can take to prevent the problem in your garden or on your houseplant. Spotted leaves or the causal fungus need two things to flourish: moisture and poor air circulation. For your houseplant, spotted leaves can be prevented by watering the soil and not the foliage. Leave enough space between your pots for good air circulation. In the garden, water in the early morning so the moisture will evaporate from the leaves. Closely packed foliage should be thinned. Always treat pruning and cutting tools with a 1:10 bleach solution after each use. Rake and remove all debris from around your plants before leaf bud each spring.

How to Treat Leaf Spot Fungus
No matter how diligent you are, the day will come when those tiny brown circles on the leaves of your plant so it’s important to know how to treat leaf spot fungus. As soon as you see plant leaf spots, treatment begins. For houseplants, isolate the pot immediately to prevent the fungus from spreading. Remove any leaf that has been affected. Stop misting. In the garden, the plant’s leaf spot treatment depends on preference. For organic treatment, there are several safe and convenient treatments available. Most contain sulfur or copper octanate. Or you can try a more traditional treatment by spraying with a mild solution of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda), using ½ teaspoon per gallon of water. For those gardeners who have no objection, many all-purpose fungicides are available. Please read the label carefully before applying.

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Crown rot commonly affects many types of plants in the garden, including vegetables. However, it can also be a problem with trees and shrubs as well and is oftentimes detrimental to the plants. So what exactly is this and how do you stop crown rot before it is too late?

What is Crown Rot Disease?
Crown rot is a disease caused by a soil-borne fungus which can survive in the soil indefinitely. This fungal disease is often favored by wet conditions and heavy soils. While symptoms may vary from plant to plant, there is often little you can do once the disease occurs.

Signs of Crown Rot Disease
While the crown or lower stem of plants affected by this disease may exhibit dry rotting at or near the soil line, most other symptoms often go unnoticed—until it’s too late. Rotting may appear on one side or only on lateral branches at first and eventually spreads to the rest of the plant. Infected areas may be discolored, usually tan or dark colored, which is indicative of dead tissue. As crown rot progresses, the plant will begin to wilt and quickly die, with younger plants being more susceptible to death. Foliage may yellow or even turn a red to purplish color as well. In some cases, plant growth may become stunted, yet the plants may still continue to put out blooms, albeit few. Tree may develop dark areas on the bark around the crown with dark sap oozing from the edges of the diseased area.

How Do You Stop Crown Rot?
Crown rot treatment is difficult, especially if it’s not caught early enough, which is often the case. Usually, there’s little you can do to save plants, so prevention is important. Once the first signs of crown rot are noticed, it’s best to simply pull the infected plants and discard them promptly. You’ll also need to sanitize the area and surrounding soil to keep the disease from spreading to nearby plants. Amending heavy, clay soil will help with any drainage issues that normally encourage this disease. Avoiding overly wet soil around plants and trees is important. Water plants only when necessary, allowing at least the top inch or so of soil to dry out between watering intervals. When you do irrigate, water deeply, which will allow plant roots to benefit the most while allowing you to water less often. Rotating vegetable crops, like tomatoes, every couple of seasons can help too. Trees will usually not survive either, depending on how bad they’re affected. However, you can try cutting away the affected bark and removing the soil from base of the tree down to the main roots to allow the crown to dry out. The use of fungicide can help prevent the disease but is usually ineffective once it’s completely taken hold. Captan or Aliette are most often used. Drench the soil (2 tbsp. to 1 gal. of water) while somewhat dry to allow the fungicide to penetrate well. Repeat this twice at 30-day intervals.

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