文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Flowering annuals bring bright colors to gardens and hanging baskets starting with the first blooms of spring through the summer and into autumn. However, many annual flowering plants need a little help to look their best and benefit from deadheading. Deadheading is the removal of spent blooms and foliage. Impatiens generally don't require deadheading as they are a self-cleaning plant that naturally sheds spent blooms, according to North Carolina State University Extension. However, even impatiens can benefit from deadheading if the plant has become stressed and has lost the majority of its blooms at the same time.
Step 1
Inspect the impatiens for blooms that are wilting or are turning brown, as well as for any dead leaves or stems, advises online resource Creative Homemaking.
Step 2
Grasp the plant 1/4 inch below the bloom with the thumb and forefinger and pinch the entire bloom off the plant. Discard the detached flower.
Step 3
Water and fertilize the impatiens with a water-soluble flower fertilizer. Keep soil moist. The impatiens should return to full bloom approximately one week after a severe deadheading.
Step 1
Inspect the impatiens for blooms that are wilting or are turning brown, as well as for any dead leaves or stems, advises online resource Creative Homemaking.
Step 2
Grasp the plant 1/4 inch below the bloom with the thumb and forefinger and pinch the entire bloom off the plant. Discard the detached flower.
Step 3
Water and fertilize the impatiens with a water-soluble flower fertilizer. Keep soil moist. The impatiens should return to full bloom approximately one week after a severe deadheading.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
The petunia -- with its long blooming period and low maintenance requirements -- remains one of the most popular flowering plants among gardeners, according to Clemson University Cooperative Extension. The plant grows 6 to 18 inches in height and spreads up to 4 feet, making it ideal for borders, containers and mass plantings.
Flowering
Petunias are annual flowers that bloom from spring until frost in the fall. Flowers reach up to 4 inches in diameter, depending on the cultivar, with the 'Grandiflora' variety producing the largest blooms. All petunias, but especially white and purple ones, produce a pleasant fragrance.
Growing Conditions
Although petunias are annuals, providing the best possible growing conditions allows petunias to produce more flowers for a longer period of time. Choose short and compact plants at the nursery, preferably ones without flowers, for best results when transplanting. Place petunias in full sun to avoid spindly plants with few flowers. Water deeply on a weekly basis and apply balanced fertilizer monthly to encourage root development and support fast growth and abundant flower production.
Deadheading
Removing old blooms allows petunias to put energy into new flower production rather than increased size and foliage development. This also improves the appearance of the plant.
Flowering
Petunias are annual flowers that bloom from spring until frost in the fall. Flowers reach up to 4 inches in diameter, depending on the cultivar, with the 'Grandiflora' variety producing the largest blooms. All petunias, but especially white and purple ones, produce a pleasant fragrance.
Growing Conditions
Although petunias are annuals, providing the best possible growing conditions allows petunias to produce more flowers for a longer period of time. Choose short and compact plants at the nursery, preferably ones without flowers, for best results when transplanting. Place petunias in full sun to avoid spindly plants with few flowers. Water deeply on a weekly basis and apply balanced fertilizer monthly to encourage root development and support fast growth and abundant flower production.
Deadheading
Removing old blooms allows petunias to put energy into new flower production rather than increased size and foliage development. This also improves the appearance of the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Chinese lantern plants (Physallis) have husks that resemble bright orange paper lanterns once dried. Inside each husk is a scarlet fruit, similar in texture but not color to its close relative, the tomatillo. The fleshy fruit surrounds the seeds within. Chinese lanterns are annual plants, so they must be replanted in the garden each year. They readily self-sow themselves, but saving some seed allows you to plant the lanterns exactly where you want them to grow each spring.
Step 1
Pick the lanterns from the plant once the husks have dried completely and turned papery. Peel the husk away from the fruits.
Step 2
Place the fruits in a blender. Add water until the fruits are covered. Place the lid on the blender, then process them on the pulse setting until they are pulverized.
Step 3
Pour the pulverized fruit into a bowl. Add another 1 to 2 cups of water to the mixture and stir to combine.
Step 4
Soak the seeds for two to three days, or until the pulp separates and floats to the top of the water. Pour the water and pulp off the top of the bowl. The viable seeds settle to the bottom.
Step 5
Remove the remaining seeds from the bowl with a slotted spoon. Place them in a mesh sieve and rinse the remaining pulp from them under running water.
Step 6
Spread the seeds out on a paper towel in a well-ventilated area. Dry them for seven days.
Step 7
Store the seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dark place until you are ready to plant them in spring. Label the container with the type of seed and the year harvested.
Step 1
Pick the lanterns from the plant once the husks have dried completely and turned papery. Peel the husk away from the fruits.
Step 2
Place the fruits in a blender. Add water until the fruits are covered. Place the lid on the blender, then process them on the pulse setting until they are pulverized.
Step 3
Pour the pulverized fruit into a bowl. Add another 1 to 2 cups of water to the mixture and stir to combine.
Step 4
Soak the seeds for two to three days, or until the pulp separates and floats to the top of the water. Pour the water and pulp off the top of the bowl. The viable seeds settle to the bottom.
Step 5
Remove the remaining seeds from the bowl with a slotted spoon. Place them in a mesh sieve and rinse the remaining pulp from them under running water.
Step 6
Spread the seeds out on a paper towel in a well-ventilated area. Dry them for seven days.
Step 7
Store the seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dark place until you are ready to plant them in spring. Label the container with the type of seed and the year harvested.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Deer are attracted to well-fertilized plants, such as those grown in gardens. Deer obtain protein, minerals, salt and one-third of their water intake from tender foliage and irrigated plants, according to the University of Georgia. Petunias tend to attract deer.
Deer Resistance
Petunias (Petunia spp.), a popular garden annual, are occasionally or frequently browsed by deer. Deer are especially attracted to moist plants, such as petunias, in spring and summer.
Features
Petunias grow from 6 to 36 inches tall. Plants can grow as trailing ground cover or as hedges. Petunias produce flowers from May through October in a variety of colors, including pink, purple, red, white and yellow.
Cultivation
Plant petunias in full sun and well-drained, moist soil. Avoid heavy soil, as this can affect blooming. Petunias are susceptible to gray mold, aphid infestation and slug damage. Pinch plants at the end of the season to help plants keep blooming.
Deer Resistance
Petunias (Petunia spp.), a popular garden annual, are occasionally or frequently browsed by deer. Deer are especially attracted to moist plants, such as petunias, in spring and summer.
Features
Petunias grow from 6 to 36 inches tall. Plants can grow as trailing ground cover or as hedges. Petunias produce flowers from May through October in a variety of colors, including pink, purple, red, white and yellow.
Cultivation
Plant petunias in full sun and well-drained, moist soil. Avoid heavy soil, as this can affect blooming. Petunias are susceptible to gray mold, aphid infestation and slug damage. Pinch plants at the end of the season to help plants keep blooming.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
The proper amount of light is critical for petunias to produce lush, healthy foliage and ample flowers. Lack of sunlight leads to weak plants that are more prone to disease. Without sunlight, petunias also flower poorly with few blossoms through the otherwise productive summer months.
Seedlings
Petunia seeds require sunlight to germinate. Sow the seeds on the soil surface and place them in an area that receives bright light to ensure they sprout. Both seed-grown and purchased seedlings must be supplied with plenty of light until you are ready to transplant them outside. Set the petunias in a sunny window where they receive at least six hours of direct light a day. If you don't have a suitable window, use fluorescent grow lights to provide enough light for the petunias to produce healthy, compact growth.
Full Sun Beds
Plant petunias in beds that receive full sunlight whenever possible. Petunias flower best and produce the most compact growth when supplied with six to eight hours daily of sunlight. Before transplanting petunias to a full-sun bed, harden them off so they don't suffer leaf scalding from the bright light. Place potted petunias in an outdoor area protected from direct sunlight. Gradually move them into direct sun over the course of seven days before finally planting them in the garden bed.
Partial Sun Beds
While not preferred, petunias can grow in partial-sun beds. When this is necessary, choose a bed that receives full morning sun and dappled sunlight or bright shade in the later afternoon. Petunias may not flower as well when planted in partial sunlight, and the plants may become leggy and weak looking. Prune the plants by up to half their height at midseason if they are weak and spindly. Pinching helps encourage a new flush of growth and makes the plants appear fuller.
Container Concerns
Container-planted petunias also do best in full sunlight, whether you are using a planter or hanging basket. The high amount of light causes the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly in the container. Water daily to help prevent the soil from drying out too much. When possible, set the containers in an area where the petunias receive full sun but the base of the container receives shade. For example, A half barrel of petunias sitting behind a low shrub is shaded at the container level but sunlight can reach the petunias planted in the top unhindered.
Seedlings
Petunia seeds require sunlight to germinate. Sow the seeds on the soil surface and place them in an area that receives bright light to ensure they sprout. Both seed-grown and purchased seedlings must be supplied with plenty of light until you are ready to transplant them outside. Set the petunias in a sunny window where they receive at least six hours of direct light a day. If you don't have a suitable window, use fluorescent grow lights to provide enough light for the petunias to produce healthy, compact growth.
Full Sun Beds
Plant petunias in beds that receive full sunlight whenever possible. Petunias flower best and produce the most compact growth when supplied with six to eight hours daily of sunlight. Before transplanting petunias to a full-sun bed, harden them off so they don't suffer leaf scalding from the bright light. Place potted petunias in an outdoor area protected from direct sunlight. Gradually move them into direct sun over the course of seven days before finally planting them in the garden bed.
Partial Sun Beds
While not preferred, petunias can grow in partial-sun beds. When this is necessary, choose a bed that receives full morning sun and dappled sunlight or bright shade in the later afternoon. Petunias may not flower as well when planted in partial sunlight, and the plants may become leggy and weak looking. Prune the plants by up to half their height at midseason if they are weak and spindly. Pinching helps encourage a new flush of growth and makes the plants appear fuller.
Container Concerns
Container-planted petunias also do best in full sunlight, whether you are using a planter or hanging basket. The high amount of light causes the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly in the container. Water daily to help prevent the soil from drying out too much. When possible, set the containers in an area where the petunias receive full sun but the base of the container receives shade. For example, A half barrel of petunias sitting behind a low shrub is shaded at the container level but sunlight can reach the petunias planted in the top unhindered.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
The proper amount of light is critical for petunias to produce lush, healthy foliage and ample flowers. Lack of sunlight leads to weak plants that are more prone to disease. Without sunlight, petunias also flower poorly with few blossoms through the otherwise productive summer months.
Seedlings
Petunia seeds require sunlight to germinate. Sow the seeds on the soil surface and place them in an area that receives bright light to ensure they sprout. Both seed-grown and purchased seedlings must be supplied with plenty of light until you are ready to transplant them outside. Set the petunias in a sunny window where they receive at least six hours of direct light a day. If you don't have a suitable window, use fluorescent grow lights to provide enough light for the petunias to produce healthy, compact growth.
Full Sun Beds
Plant petunias in beds that receive full sunlight whenever possible. Petunias flower best and produce the most compact growth when supplied with six to eight hours daily of sunlight. Before transplanting petunias to a full-sun bed, harden them off so they don't suffer leaf scalding from the bright light. Place potted petunias in an outdoor area protected from direct sunlight. Gradually move them into direct sun over the course of seven days before finally planting them in the garden bed.
Partial Sun Beds
While not preferred, petunias can grow in partial-sun beds. When this is necessary, choose a bed that receives full morning sun and dappled sunlight or bright shade in the later afternoon. Petunias may not flower as well when planted in partial sunlight, and the plants may become leggy and weak looking. Prune the plants by up to half their height at midseason if they are weak and spindly. Pinching helps encourage a new flush of growth and makes the plants appear fuller.
Container Concerns
Container-planted petunias also do best in full sunlight, whether you are using a planter or hanging basket. The high amount of light causes the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly in the container. Water daily to help prevent the soil from drying out too much. When possible, set the containers in an area where the petunias receive full sun but the base of the container receives shade. For example, A half barrel of petunias sitting behind a low shrub is shaded at the container level but sunlight can reach the petunias planted in the top unhindered.
Seedlings
Petunia seeds require sunlight to germinate. Sow the seeds on the soil surface and place them in an area that receives bright light to ensure they sprout. Both seed-grown and purchased seedlings must be supplied with plenty of light until you are ready to transplant them outside. Set the petunias in a sunny window where they receive at least six hours of direct light a day. If you don't have a suitable window, use fluorescent grow lights to provide enough light for the petunias to produce healthy, compact growth.
Full Sun Beds
Plant petunias in beds that receive full sunlight whenever possible. Petunias flower best and produce the most compact growth when supplied with six to eight hours daily of sunlight. Before transplanting petunias to a full-sun bed, harden them off so they don't suffer leaf scalding from the bright light. Place potted petunias in an outdoor area protected from direct sunlight. Gradually move them into direct sun over the course of seven days before finally planting them in the garden bed.
Partial Sun Beds
While not preferred, petunias can grow in partial-sun beds. When this is necessary, choose a bed that receives full morning sun and dappled sunlight or bright shade in the later afternoon. Petunias may not flower as well when planted in partial sunlight, and the plants may become leggy and weak looking. Prune the plants by up to half their height at midseason if they are weak and spindly. Pinching helps encourage a new flush of growth and makes the plants appear fuller.
Container Concerns
Container-planted petunias also do best in full sunlight, whether you are using a planter or hanging basket. The high amount of light causes the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly in the container. Water daily to help prevent the soil from drying out too much. When possible, set the containers in an area where the petunias receive full sun but the base of the container receives shade. For example, A half barrel of petunias sitting behind a low shrub is shaded at the container level but sunlight can reach the petunias planted in the top unhindered.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Petunias bloom for most of summer with only a minimum of care. The plants come in a variety of colors and types, with most beginning to flower soon after spring frost danger passes. The plants may become leggy as the season progresses. Legginess results from weak overgrown stems that produce sparse foliage and flowers. General maintenance practices can prevent and fix legginess, helping the petunias produce a fresh supply of new buds and blooms.
Step 1
Purchase petunias that have full foliage with leaves forming along the entire length of the stems. Plants that have sparse foliage and overly long stems are weaker and may not fill out well once transplanted to the garden.
Step 2
Provide indoor sown seedlings with at least eight hours of direct sunlight a day once the seeds sprout. Rotate the seedling pot daily so all sides of the plant receive equal sunlight. Rotating and plenty of light encourages the plants to produce full growth and prevents the stems from stretching toward a light source, which results in legginess.
Step 3
Pinch off the tip of each stem after transplanting the petunias to the garden. Remove the tips directly above a leaf bud. Pinching encourages branches and results in fuller plants with shorter stems and more flower buds.
Step 4
Prune petunias in midsummer if they become overgrown and leggy from the growth of the first half of the season. Remove up to one-half the plant's height with a pair of pruning shears. New fuller growth resumes within one to two weeks.
Step 1
Purchase petunias that have full foliage with leaves forming along the entire length of the stems. Plants that have sparse foliage and overly long stems are weaker and may not fill out well once transplanted to the garden.
Step 2
Provide indoor sown seedlings with at least eight hours of direct sunlight a day once the seeds sprout. Rotate the seedling pot daily so all sides of the plant receive equal sunlight. Rotating and plenty of light encourages the plants to produce full growth and prevents the stems from stretching toward a light source, which results in legginess.
Step 3
Pinch off the tip of each stem after transplanting the petunias to the garden. Remove the tips directly above a leaf bud. Pinching encourages branches and results in fuller plants with shorter stems and more flower buds.
Step 4
Prune petunias in midsummer if they become overgrown and leggy from the growth of the first half of the season. Remove up to one-half the plant's height with a pair of pruning shears. New fuller growth resumes within one to two weeks.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Flowering annuals grown in containers add color to an apartment terrace, a garden patio or any other outdoor spot. When choosing plants for potting, add some zinnias (Zinnia elegans) for blossoms that keep coming all season long. Zinnias grow as annuals in all parts of the United States and come in many different sizes, with flowers in varied shapes and vivid colors. Growing them in pots is easy, requiring only a little care at the start and some tidying during the season.
Getting Started
Zinnias are easy to start from seed, because their seeds are large and easy to handle, and they usually germinate quickly. Start seeds indoors about six weeks before the last spring frost, sowing them in a moistened, soilless mixture in flats or small pots. Cover them with mix to a depth of about 1/4 inch and keep them lightly moist until seedlings sprout; keep in a sunny spot at room temperature until you're ready to transplant them into larger containers.
You can also start by purchasing seedlings at a garden center or nursery, but don't buy them more than a day or two before you're ready to plant, so they're in top shape when they go in the ground. Choose compact, well-branched plants with flower buds and healthy, bright green leaves that aren't discolored. If you can't plant immediately, water the seedlings and keep them in a shady spot until you're ready.
Plant seedlings in outdoor containers any time after danger of frost has passed.
Potting and Planting
Zinnias grow well in any type of container, including plastic or clay pots, wooden half-barrels, a windowbox or a hanging basket, but choose a container that has at least one drainage hole to help prevent fungal growth in the soil. Disinfect a previously used container to kill disease organisms or pests before using by soaking it in a solution that's 1 part bleach to 9 parts water for 10 minutes, then clean it with water that contains a little dish detergent, and rinse well.
Zinnias come in many sizes, from varieties that grow 2 feet tall to dwarf cultivars only 6 inches high. You can plant any of these in a container. As they all spread to about 1 or 1 1/2 feet, a good rule of thumb for spacing is to set one zinnia in a 6-inch pot, three plants in a 10-inch pot and up to five zinnias in a 14-inch pot.
Soil, Sun, Water and Fertilizer
Plant zinnias in any commercial potting mix, or make your own. For example, for two 14-inch containers, combine 2 1/2 gallons peat moss, 2 1/2 gallons perlite, 1 1/4 gallons compost, 2 cups fine sand and 1/2 cup ground limestone. Don't use garden soil, which can harbor pests or disease-causing organisms.
Plant seedlings to the same level as they were in their original pot and water them in well. Keep zinnias in a sunny location that gets at least four hours of sun daily -- more sun means more flowers -- and water whenever the top inch or two of soil feels dry to the touch. Let the pot drain after watering and never keep it in a water-filled saucer.
To keep flowers coming all season, fertilize the pot weekly, using a water-soluble, 5-10-5 formula diluted at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but check your product label for additional directions.
Trimming and Possible Problems
Zinnias continue producing new flower buds until plants dieback in the fall. But you can help keep the plants full of blooms and tidy by trimming off flowers as they fade -- called deadheading. This also helps promote new branching behind the old flower, keeping the plant bushy. Using sharp shears, cut off the stem just behind the old flower but in front of any new shoots that may be growing on the stem. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spread of plant disease.
Zinnias are usually free of any pest problems, but they are susceptible to several fungal problems, including powdery mildew which causes a white powder to accumulate on leaves that eventually wilt and dry up. This is best prevented by keeping the container in a spot with good air circulation and watering only at the plant's base, keeping foliage dry.
Getting Started
Zinnias are easy to start from seed, because their seeds are large and easy to handle, and they usually germinate quickly. Start seeds indoors about six weeks before the last spring frost, sowing them in a moistened, soilless mixture in flats or small pots. Cover them with mix to a depth of about 1/4 inch and keep them lightly moist until seedlings sprout; keep in a sunny spot at room temperature until you're ready to transplant them into larger containers.
You can also start by purchasing seedlings at a garden center or nursery, but don't buy them more than a day or two before you're ready to plant, so they're in top shape when they go in the ground. Choose compact, well-branched plants with flower buds and healthy, bright green leaves that aren't discolored. If you can't plant immediately, water the seedlings and keep them in a shady spot until you're ready.
Plant seedlings in outdoor containers any time after danger of frost has passed.
Potting and Planting
Zinnias grow well in any type of container, including plastic or clay pots, wooden half-barrels, a windowbox or a hanging basket, but choose a container that has at least one drainage hole to help prevent fungal growth in the soil. Disinfect a previously used container to kill disease organisms or pests before using by soaking it in a solution that's 1 part bleach to 9 parts water for 10 minutes, then clean it with water that contains a little dish detergent, and rinse well.
Zinnias come in many sizes, from varieties that grow 2 feet tall to dwarf cultivars only 6 inches high. You can plant any of these in a container. As they all spread to about 1 or 1 1/2 feet, a good rule of thumb for spacing is to set one zinnia in a 6-inch pot, three plants in a 10-inch pot and up to five zinnias in a 14-inch pot.
Soil, Sun, Water and Fertilizer
Plant zinnias in any commercial potting mix, or make your own. For example, for two 14-inch containers, combine 2 1/2 gallons peat moss, 2 1/2 gallons perlite, 1 1/4 gallons compost, 2 cups fine sand and 1/2 cup ground limestone. Don't use garden soil, which can harbor pests or disease-causing organisms.
Plant seedlings to the same level as they were in their original pot and water them in well. Keep zinnias in a sunny location that gets at least four hours of sun daily -- more sun means more flowers -- and water whenever the top inch or two of soil feels dry to the touch. Let the pot drain after watering and never keep it in a water-filled saucer.
To keep flowers coming all season, fertilize the pot weekly, using a water-soluble, 5-10-5 formula diluted at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but check your product label for additional directions.
Trimming and Possible Problems
Zinnias continue producing new flower buds until plants dieback in the fall. But you can help keep the plants full of blooms and tidy by trimming off flowers as they fade -- called deadheading. This also helps promote new branching behind the old flower, keeping the plant bushy. Using sharp shears, cut off the stem just behind the old flower but in front of any new shoots that may be growing on the stem. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spread of plant disease.
Zinnias are usually free of any pest problems, but they are susceptible to several fungal problems, including powdery mildew which causes a white powder to accumulate on leaves that eventually wilt and dry up. This is best prevented by keeping the container in a spot with good air circulation and watering only at the plant's base, keeping foliage dry.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Brightly colored zinnias are a welcome sight in summer gardens. Once the weather warms up, zinnias are easy to grow in sunny flowerbeds and borders. They are attractive whether grown en masse or in clumps of three, five or seven plants in a mixed border. Not only are they easy to grow, they have a long vase life too, making them a favorite among veteran gardeners.
Culture
Zinnias are annuals. The first frost of fall kills them, and gardeners must plant them anew in late spring. Gardeners may sow seeds directly in well-drained soil outdoors after the last frost of spring. Succession plantings every two to three weeks will ensure a long season of vivid color. Zinnias transplant well, so you can also start seeds indoors in peat pots or trays in cool weather and move seedlings outdoors when temperatures rise.
Varieties
Flowers can be single or double, like this double yellow pincushion variety.
Zinnias are diverse. They range in size from dwarf, compact plants, just 6 inches in height, to stately giants 4 feet tall. Flower forms can vary from dense, pincushion blooms to single, airy blossoms that resemble daisies. White varieties exist, but zinnias are generally known for their vivid colors in shades of pink, orange, red and yellow. Their intense colors attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Challenges
Zinnias are not problem-free. Leaves are susceptible to white powdery mildew, so gardeners should plant zinnias with sufficient space between them to allow for good air circulation. Leaf spot, root rot, blight and botrytis are the most common zinnia diseases. The gardener should remove any affected foliage at the first sign of trouble and dispose of leaves in the trash, not the compost bin.
Cutting
Zinnias do well in a vase or an arrangement. To extend the vase life of cut zinnias, cut them early in the morning and dip the cut stems in water as soon as possible. Remove all of the foliage from the portion of the stem that will be underwater in the vase, and chill the flowers in the refrigerator. Let them soak the water in and cool off for at least an hour before arranging them.
Culture
Zinnias are annuals. The first frost of fall kills them, and gardeners must plant them anew in late spring. Gardeners may sow seeds directly in well-drained soil outdoors after the last frost of spring. Succession plantings every two to three weeks will ensure a long season of vivid color. Zinnias transplant well, so you can also start seeds indoors in peat pots or trays in cool weather and move seedlings outdoors when temperatures rise.
Varieties
Flowers can be single or double, like this double yellow pincushion variety.
Zinnias are diverse. They range in size from dwarf, compact plants, just 6 inches in height, to stately giants 4 feet tall. Flower forms can vary from dense, pincushion blooms to single, airy blossoms that resemble daisies. White varieties exist, but zinnias are generally known for their vivid colors in shades of pink, orange, red and yellow. Their intense colors attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Challenges
Zinnias are not problem-free. Leaves are susceptible to white powdery mildew, so gardeners should plant zinnias with sufficient space between them to allow for good air circulation. Leaf spot, root rot, blight and botrytis are the most common zinnia diseases. The gardener should remove any affected foliage at the first sign of trouble and dispose of leaves in the trash, not the compost bin.
Cutting
Zinnias do well in a vase or an arrangement. To extend the vase life of cut zinnias, cut them early in the morning and dip the cut stems in water as soon as possible. Remove all of the foliage from the portion of the stem that will be underwater in the vase, and chill the flowers in the refrigerator. Let them soak the water in and cool off for at least an hour before arranging them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
While most summer-blooming annuals require several hours of bright sunlight every day, impatiens are one of few annuals that thrive with little light. Although impatiens are low-maintenance plants, proper watering is critical as impatiens have fleshy stems that wilt when the plants become too dry. Without water, impatiens become stressed and blooming decreases.
Soil Drainage
Impatiens thrive in moist soil, but it's critical that the soil drains well. Although impatiens wilt in dry soil, they may rot and die in wet, soggy soil. Proper drainage is just as important for impatiens planted in containers. Containerized impatiens must be planted in a pot with a drainage hole. Use a good quality, peat-based potting mixture, as good quality potting soil retains water longer than poor quality potting soil. Improve drainage by using a mixture of half potting soil and half perlite.
Watering Impatiens in Flower Beds
As a general rule, impatiens planted in flower beds benefit from watering once every week. Water deeply enough to saturate the roots. During periods of hot, dry weather, impatiens may need water more frequently. If the top of the soil feels dry or if the plant begins to wilt, water immediately. Impatiens do best when watered at the base of the plant so the foliage remains dry. If you use a sprinkler, water in the morning so the foliage has plenty of time to dry before evening. If foliage is wet during the cooler evening hours, the plant is more susceptible to fungal disease and other problems caused by excessive moisture.
Impatiens in Containers
Impatiens planted in pots require water more frequently, as potting soil in containers dries quickly. Check the impatiens daily and water whenever the top of the potting soil feels dry. During hot, dry weather, impatiens may require water twice daily. Never allow the potting soil to dry completely.
Sunlight
Impatiens don't do well in full sunlight, nor do they thrive in full shade. Locate impatiens where the plants are exposed to morning sunlight. Alternatively, plant impatiens in partial shade or filtered light. Avoid placing impatiens in afternoon sunlight, as the intense light will fade the colors and may harm the plant. The brighter the sunlight, the more water is required.
Maintenance
Cut impatiens stems down to about 3 to 4 inches if plants begin to look spindly during midsummer. Pinching removes unattractive foliage and produces a flush of new growth that lasts until the end of the blooming season. Fertilize impatiens in a flower bed every month, using a general purpose water-soluble fertilizer. Alternatively, mix a time-release fertilizer into the soil at planting time. Use a water-soluble fertilizer for containerized impatiens every other week. Apply fertilizer according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
Soil Drainage
Impatiens thrive in moist soil, but it's critical that the soil drains well. Although impatiens wilt in dry soil, they may rot and die in wet, soggy soil. Proper drainage is just as important for impatiens planted in containers. Containerized impatiens must be planted in a pot with a drainage hole. Use a good quality, peat-based potting mixture, as good quality potting soil retains water longer than poor quality potting soil. Improve drainage by using a mixture of half potting soil and half perlite.
Watering Impatiens in Flower Beds
As a general rule, impatiens planted in flower beds benefit from watering once every week. Water deeply enough to saturate the roots. During periods of hot, dry weather, impatiens may need water more frequently. If the top of the soil feels dry or if the plant begins to wilt, water immediately. Impatiens do best when watered at the base of the plant so the foliage remains dry. If you use a sprinkler, water in the morning so the foliage has plenty of time to dry before evening. If foliage is wet during the cooler evening hours, the plant is more susceptible to fungal disease and other problems caused by excessive moisture.
Impatiens in Containers
Impatiens planted in pots require water more frequently, as potting soil in containers dries quickly. Check the impatiens daily and water whenever the top of the potting soil feels dry. During hot, dry weather, impatiens may require water twice daily. Never allow the potting soil to dry completely.
Sunlight
Impatiens don't do well in full sunlight, nor do they thrive in full shade. Locate impatiens where the plants are exposed to morning sunlight. Alternatively, plant impatiens in partial shade or filtered light. Avoid placing impatiens in afternoon sunlight, as the intense light will fade the colors and may harm the plant. The brighter the sunlight, the more water is required.
Maintenance
Cut impatiens stems down to about 3 to 4 inches if plants begin to look spindly during midsummer. Pinching removes unattractive foliage and produces a flush of new growth that lasts until the end of the blooming season. Fertilize impatiens in a flower bed every month, using a general purpose water-soluble fertilizer. Alternatively, mix a time-release fertilizer into the soil at planting time. Use a water-soluble fertilizer for containerized impatiens every other week. Apply fertilizer according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Marigolds are annual flowering plants. Native to Mexico, marigolds prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Marigolds are related to asters and grow easily from seed or transplanted bedding plants. These plants bloom in summer with colors in shades of yellow, orange and red with solid, bi-color and striped flowers. Choose varieties from 6 to 36 inches in height. Cut back marigolds to encourage healthy foliage and prolific flowering.
Pinching
Pinch back young marigolds in spring and early summer. When the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, pinch or cut back foliage tips and new buds to encourage branching. The plant puts out lateral branches and buds. This branching creates bushier foliage and more flower buds. This technique turns leggy growth on young plants into more compact and sturdy plants. When a plant has many flower buds, pinch off some buds to divert energy to the remaining buds for larger flowers.
Deadheading
Tidy up your marigolds by deadheading during the growing season. Cut back dead or fading flowers. After a flower passes its peak bloom, it shrivels and dries into a seed head. Removing dead flower heads encourages more blooms. Pinch off each head individually or cut back the head and stem down to the foliage. Marigolds bloom profusely from spring through autumn when they are deadheaded or frail buds are removed. At the same time, trim off any dead, diseased or discolored foliage.
Shearing
Shear your marigolds in mid-summer. When marigolds look bedraggled or fatigued, revitalize them by cutting off flowers and foliage. Cut back up to one-third of the plant. Pinch off leaves and flowers on dwarf marigolds. Use hand shears or clippers for clean cuts on other marigold varieties. Remove the tired or old growth so that the plant puts its energy into new foliage and flowers. Fertilize lightly with a balanced plant food and water the plant after shearing. Your marigolds may look ragged for a week or two after this shearing, but the plant benefits from the mid-season boost.
Pest Control
Cut back French marigolds in autumn to fight root knot nematodes. Nematodes are soil-dwelling parasites that attack plant roots and harm plants. Dwarf or French marigolds give off natural compounds that are toxic to the nematodes. The marigold compounds are most effective after several months in the soil. Some gardeners plant French marigolds around vegetable beds in the spring. The marigolds mature and expand their roots during summer. In autumn, the foliage is cut back and the roots are chopped or cultivated into the soil for added nematode control.
Pinching
Pinch back young marigolds in spring and early summer. When the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, pinch or cut back foliage tips and new buds to encourage branching. The plant puts out lateral branches and buds. This branching creates bushier foliage and more flower buds. This technique turns leggy growth on young plants into more compact and sturdy plants. When a plant has many flower buds, pinch off some buds to divert energy to the remaining buds for larger flowers.
Deadheading
Tidy up your marigolds by deadheading during the growing season. Cut back dead or fading flowers. After a flower passes its peak bloom, it shrivels and dries into a seed head. Removing dead flower heads encourages more blooms. Pinch off each head individually or cut back the head and stem down to the foliage. Marigolds bloom profusely from spring through autumn when they are deadheaded or frail buds are removed. At the same time, trim off any dead, diseased or discolored foliage.
Shearing
Shear your marigolds in mid-summer. When marigolds look bedraggled or fatigued, revitalize them by cutting off flowers and foliage. Cut back up to one-third of the plant. Pinch off leaves and flowers on dwarf marigolds. Use hand shears or clippers for clean cuts on other marigold varieties. Remove the tired or old growth so that the plant puts its energy into new foliage and flowers. Fertilize lightly with a balanced plant food and water the plant after shearing. Your marigolds may look ragged for a week or two after this shearing, but the plant benefits from the mid-season boost.
Pest Control
Cut back French marigolds in autumn to fight root knot nematodes. Nematodes are soil-dwelling parasites that attack plant roots and harm plants. Dwarf or French marigolds give off natural compounds that are toxic to the nematodes. The marigold compounds are most effective after several months in the soil. Some gardeners plant French marigolds around vegetable beds in the spring. The marigolds mature and expand their roots during summer. In autumn, the foliage is cut back and the roots are chopped or cultivated into the soil for added nematode control.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Few annuals are as dependably cheerful as marigolds (Tagetes patula). Easy to grow and long-blooming, these reliable plants start flowering in early summer and continue until frost if their old blooms are snipped. They also attract butterflies and hummingbirds into the garden. Marigolds grow best if watered deeply at least once a week.
About Marigolds
Native from New Mexico south to Argentina, marigolds have been a staple in flower gardens for generations. Their height ranges from 6-inch miniatures to 4-foot bushes. These fragrant annuals are easy to grow from seed, but many gardeners buy started plants in garden centers in the spring. The flowers come in yellow, orange, red, cream and bicolored varieties. Small marigolds can be grown in pots or used for edging, while the taller varieties make good cut flowers.
Marigolds grow and flower best in full sun in moist, rich soil with good drainage. The plants tolerate light drought but flowering is diminished. If you're growing marigolds in pots, use a good-quality potting soil, not garden soil, which is too heavy and dense for good container gardening. Deadhead marigolds -- cut off their spent flowers -- to keep them blooming until frost and to improve their appearance. Fertilize them regularly, following the package directions for the proper amount to apply.
Watering New Plants
Water marigolds well immediately after planting them in the garden, both to settle the soil and to hydrate the roots. Keep the soil around the roots moist but not soggy until the plants are established. This usually takes 10 to 12 days.
Established marigolds in garden beds need a good soak once each week. Give them enough water so that the soil is moist to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If the weather is unusually hot or windy, they'll need extra water. Water marigolds in pots when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry. If your marigolds stop flowering in hot weather, give them some extra water, which often restarts flower bud formation.
Fertilizer Precaution
Applying fertilizer to the dry roots of any plant, including marigolds, makes the plant vulnerable to chemical burns from the fertilizer. Always water your plants well the day before you fertilize. This applies to any kind of fertilizer, including water-soluble ones.
About Marigolds
Native from New Mexico south to Argentina, marigolds have been a staple in flower gardens for generations. Their height ranges from 6-inch miniatures to 4-foot bushes. These fragrant annuals are easy to grow from seed, but many gardeners buy started plants in garden centers in the spring. The flowers come in yellow, orange, red, cream and bicolored varieties. Small marigolds can be grown in pots or used for edging, while the taller varieties make good cut flowers.
Marigolds grow and flower best in full sun in moist, rich soil with good drainage. The plants tolerate light drought but flowering is diminished. If you're growing marigolds in pots, use a good-quality potting soil, not garden soil, which is too heavy and dense for good container gardening. Deadhead marigolds -- cut off their spent flowers -- to keep them blooming until frost and to improve their appearance. Fertilize them regularly, following the package directions for the proper amount to apply.
Watering New Plants
Water marigolds well immediately after planting them in the garden, both to settle the soil and to hydrate the roots. Keep the soil around the roots moist but not soggy until the plants are established. This usually takes 10 to 12 days.
Established marigolds in garden beds need a good soak once each week. Give them enough water so that the soil is moist to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If the weather is unusually hot or windy, they'll need extra water. Water marigolds in pots when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry. If your marigolds stop flowering in hot weather, give them some extra water, which often restarts flower bud formation.
Fertilizer Precaution
Applying fertilizer to the dry roots of any plant, including marigolds, makes the plant vulnerable to chemical burns from the fertilizer. Always water your plants well the day before you fertilize. This applies to any kind of fertilizer, including water-soluble ones.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Lilium (members of which are true lilies) is a genus of herbaceous flowering plants growing from bulbs, all with large prominent flowers. Lilies are a group of flowering plants which are important in culture and literature in much of the world. Most species are native to the temperate northern hemisphere, though their range extends into the northern subtropics. Many other plants have "lily" in their common name but are not related to true lilies.
Distribution and habita
The range of lilies in the Old World extends across much of Europe, across most of Asia to Japan, south to India, and east to Indochina and the Philippines. In the New World they extend from southern Canada through much of the United States. They are commonly adapted to either woodland habitats, often montane, or sometimes to grassland habitats. A few can survive in marshland and epiphytes are known in tropical southeast Asia. In general they prefer moderately acidic or lime-free soils.
Ecology
Lilies are used as food plants by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species including the Dun-bar.
Cultivation
Many species are widely grown in the garden in temperate and sub-tropical regions. They may also be grown as potted plants. Numerous ornamental hybrids have been developed. They can be used in herbaceous borders, woodland and shrub plantings, and as patio plants. Some lilies, especially Lilium longiflorum, form important cut flower crops. These may be forced for particular markets; for instance, Lilium longiflorum for the Easter trade, when it may be called the Easter lily.
Lilies are usually planted as bulbs in the dormant season. They are best planted in a south-facing (northern hemisphere), slightly sloping aspect, in sun or part shade, at a depth 2½ times the height of the bulb (except Lilium candidum which should be planted at the surface). Most prefer a porous, loamy soil, and good drainage is essential. Most species bloom in July or August (northern hemisphere). The flowering periods of certain lily species begin in late spring, while others bloom in late summer or early autumn.They have contractile roots which pull the plant down to the correct depth, therefore it is better to plant them too shallowly than too deep. A soil pH of around 6.5 is generally safe. The soil should be well-drained, and plants must be kept watered during the growing season. Some plants have strong wiry stems, but those with heavy flower heads may need staking.
Distribution and habita
The range of lilies in the Old World extends across much of Europe, across most of Asia to Japan, south to India, and east to Indochina and the Philippines. In the New World they extend from southern Canada through much of the United States. They are commonly adapted to either woodland habitats, often montane, or sometimes to grassland habitats. A few can survive in marshland and epiphytes are known in tropical southeast Asia. In general they prefer moderately acidic or lime-free soils.
Ecology
Lilies are used as food plants by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species including the Dun-bar.
Cultivation
Many species are widely grown in the garden in temperate and sub-tropical regions. They may also be grown as potted plants. Numerous ornamental hybrids have been developed. They can be used in herbaceous borders, woodland and shrub plantings, and as patio plants. Some lilies, especially Lilium longiflorum, form important cut flower crops. These may be forced for particular markets; for instance, Lilium longiflorum for the Easter trade, when it may be called the Easter lily.
Lilies are usually planted as bulbs in the dormant season. They are best planted in a south-facing (northern hemisphere), slightly sloping aspect, in sun or part shade, at a depth 2½ times the height of the bulb (except Lilium candidum which should be planted at the surface). Most prefer a porous, loamy soil, and good drainage is essential. Most species bloom in July or August (northern hemisphere). The flowering periods of certain lily species begin in late spring, while others bloom in late summer or early autumn.They have contractile roots which pull the plant down to the correct depth, therefore it is better to plant them too shallowly than too deep. A soil pH of around 6.5 is generally safe. The soil should be well-drained, and plants must be kept watered during the growing season. Some plants have strong wiry stems, but those with heavy flower heads may need staking.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Peace lilies are so enchanting; it may come as a surprise that they are rugged plants that tolerate a variety of light conditions, including semi-darkness. Peace lilies can even survive a certain amount of neglect at the hands of busy or forgetful indoor gardeners. Do peace lilies need fertilizer? Believe it or not, many folks prefer to skip the fertilizer and their peace lily plants do just fine without it. However, fertilizing a peace lily now and then is important if you hope to encourage blooming. Read on to learn more about fertilizer for peace lilies.
When to Feed Peace Lily Plants
Peace lilies aren’t fussy and they really don’t need much fertilizer. The best time to apply peace lily fertilizer is when the plant is activity growing or producing blooms. As a general rule, two or three feedings throughout the growing season is plenty. If you choose to feed your plant more often, use a very diluted fertilizer. Avoid overfeeding, as too much fertilizer may create brown spots on the leaves. If the flowers are a little green around the gills instead of creamy white, you are probably overdoing the fertilizer. Either cut back or dilute the concentration.
What is the Best Peace Lily Fertilizer?
When it comes to fertilizing a peace lily, any good quality, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer is fine. Look for a product with a balanced ratio, such as 20-20-20, diluted to one-half or one-quarter strength. Be sure to water after feeding your peace lily to distribute the fertilizer evenly around the roots. Never apply fertilizer to dry soil, which may scorch the roots.
When to Feed Peace Lily Plants
Peace lilies aren’t fussy and they really don’t need much fertilizer. The best time to apply peace lily fertilizer is when the plant is activity growing or producing blooms. As a general rule, two or three feedings throughout the growing season is plenty. If you choose to feed your plant more often, use a very diluted fertilizer. Avoid overfeeding, as too much fertilizer may create brown spots on the leaves. If the flowers are a little green around the gills instead of creamy white, you are probably overdoing the fertilizer. Either cut back or dilute the concentration.
What is the Best Peace Lily Fertilizer?
When it comes to fertilizing a peace lily, any good quality, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer is fine. Look for a product with a balanced ratio, such as 20-20-20, diluted to one-half or one-quarter strength. Be sure to water after feeding your peace lily to distribute the fertilizer evenly around the roots. Never apply fertilizer to dry soil, which may scorch the roots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Peace lily, or Spathiphyllum, is a common and easy-to-grow houseplant. They are not true lilies but in the Arum family and native to tropical Central and South America. In the wild, peace lilies are understory plants that grow in moisture rich humus and in partially shaded light. Heat, water levels, lighting and disease are potential causes for drooping peace lily plants. Once you discover the cause, it is generally easy to revive a wilting peace lily. But first you need to put your Sherlock Holmes hat on and investigate the reason a peace lily keeps wilting.
My Peace Lily Keeps Wilting
Peace lily is an attractive foliage plant that produces a flower-like spathe, which is a modified leaf that encloses the real flower, a spadix. While these plants are known for their ease of care, occasional issues may arise. One of the most common is droopy leaves on peace lily. Wilting peace lilies can occur due to several conditions. It is important to look for pest and disease issues, but the problem could also be cultural.
Watering issues
Spathiphyllum are Aroids, which means they are known for their glossy foliage and characteristic spathe. Peace lilies grow naturally in tropical rainforests. These plants need water but once per week is usually enough. Water until the moisture comes out the drainage holes in the plant’s container. This will ensure that the root ball is getting moisture. When you repot the plant, separate the roots of the ball out into the new soil so they can gather moisture. One common mistake is to water into a saucer and let the moisture percolate up into the roots. This is time consuming for the plant and it may not be getting adequate moisture. Additionally, the standing water in the saucer may induce root rot and attract insect pests. Good watering practices can quickly revive a wilting peace lily.
Lighting, temperature and soil
Correct cultural care needs to be given to peace lily plants. Consistently wilting peace lilies are often the result of simple cultural issues that are easily corrected. Place plants in indirect but bright sunlight. Keep them in a container that is twice as large as the root ball. Wild peace lilies live in warm, tropical regions and require temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-23 C.) during the day and about 10 degrees cooler at night. Most thrive in average indoor temperatures but exposure to extreme heat or cold can cause drooping peace lily plants. Move any plants that are near the furnace or a drafty window or door. Good, well-draining soil is essential. Soil with a high amount of clay can create unfavorably boggy conditions and those with too much grit or sand will simply drain away the moisture added before the plant can uptake it. The best potting soil for a peace lily is a fine, porous mixture containing peat moss, fine bark, or perlite.
Pests and disease
When water levels and other cultural issues have been adequately addressed and the plant is still stressed, look for signs of pests or disease. Mealybugs are the most common pest problem. They can be seen as cottony bits of fluff adhering to the plant or in the soil. Their feeding behavior on plant sap reduces plant vigor and disrupts the flow of nutrients and moisture to foliage, causing discoloration and wilting. Sharp sprays of water to rinse off the insects or the application of alcohol directly to the pests can correct an infestation. Cylindrocladium root rot is the most prevalent disease of Spathiphyllum. It occurs in the warm summer months and causes chlorotic areas and wilted leaves. Remove the plant from soil and treat the roots with fungicide. Then repot in a sterile pot with clean soil. Several other pathogens may be harbored in contaminated potting soil. These are generally fungal and may be addressed in a similar manner as Cylindrocladium.
My Peace Lily Keeps Wilting
Peace lily is an attractive foliage plant that produces a flower-like spathe, which is a modified leaf that encloses the real flower, a spadix. While these plants are known for their ease of care, occasional issues may arise. One of the most common is droopy leaves on peace lily. Wilting peace lilies can occur due to several conditions. It is important to look for pest and disease issues, but the problem could also be cultural.
Watering issues
Spathiphyllum are Aroids, which means they are known for their glossy foliage and characteristic spathe. Peace lilies grow naturally in tropical rainforests. These plants need water but once per week is usually enough. Water until the moisture comes out the drainage holes in the plant’s container. This will ensure that the root ball is getting moisture. When you repot the plant, separate the roots of the ball out into the new soil so they can gather moisture. One common mistake is to water into a saucer and let the moisture percolate up into the roots. This is time consuming for the plant and it may not be getting adequate moisture. Additionally, the standing water in the saucer may induce root rot and attract insect pests. Good watering practices can quickly revive a wilting peace lily.
Lighting, temperature and soil
Correct cultural care needs to be given to peace lily plants. Consistently wilting peace lilies are often the result of simple cultural issues that are easily corrected. Place plants in indirect but bright sunlight. Keep them in a container that is twice as large as the root ball. Wild peace lilies live in warm, tropical regions and require temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-23 C.) during the day and about 10 degrees cooler at night. Most thrive in average indoor temperatures but exposure to extreme heat or cold can cause drooping peace lily plants. Move any plants that are near the furnace or a drafty window or door. Good, well-draining soil is essential. Soil with a high amount of clay can create unfavorably boggy conditions and those with too much grit or sand will simply drain away the moisture added before the plant can uptake it. The best potting soil for a peace lily is a fine, porous mixture containing peat moss, fine bark, or perlite.
Pests and disease
When water levels and other cultural issues have been adequately addressed and the plant is still stressed, look for signs of pests or disease. Mealybugs are the most common pest problem. They can be seen as cottony bits of fluff adhering to the plant or in the soil. Their feeding behavior on plant sap reduces plant vigor and disrupts the flow of nutrients and moisture to foliage, causing discoloration and wilting. Sharp sprays of water to rinse off the insects or the application of alcohol directly to the pests can correct an infestation. Cylindrocladium root rot is the most prevalent disease of Spathiphyllum. It occurs in the warm summer months and causes chlorotic areas and wilted leaves. Remove the plant from soil and treat the roots with fungicide. Then repot in a sterile pot with clean soil. Several other pathogens may be harbored in contaminated potting soil. These are generally fungal and may be addressed in a similar manner as Cylindrocladium.
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