文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Ponytail palms (Beaucarnea recurvata) are distinctive plants that you are not likely to confuse with any other small trees in your garden. Slow growers, these palms have swollen trunk bases that taper. They are best known for the long, slender cascading leaves that are arranged in much the same way as a pony’s tail. Growing ponytail palm outdoors is possible in warmer climates and caring for ponytail palm outdoors is not difficult. Read on for more information about how to grow a ponytail palm outside.
Can You Plant Ponytail Palms Outside?
If you live in a very warm climate like that found in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, growing ponytail palm outdoors is entirely feasible. They can grow to 30 feet tall, but rarely do as houseplants. Plant them as small, unusual specimen trees or else in containers on the patio. If you start a ponytail palm indoors and decide to move it to a permanent outdoor location, be patient and take your time. Ponytail palm plant care in this circumstance dictates that the plant be exposed to the increased light and altered temperature gradually, over a number of days or weeks.
How to Grow a Ponytail Palm Outside
Caring for ponytail palm outdoors requires a knowledge of ponytail palm plant care. These lovely little trees thrive in full sun with generous but infrequent irrigation. Overwatering is a serious problem for ponytail palms grown as houseplants. Remember that the common name of this plant is slightly misleading. The ponytail palm is not a palm at all but related to the water-sparing yucca family. Expect this plant to store water in its swollen trunk base to help it through dry, hot weather.
Growing ponytail palm outdoors is only possible in well-drained soils, since the plant develops root rot in wet earth. On the other hand, the plant accepts most soil types, including sandy and loamy. Even with the best ponytail palm plant care, you will have to wait a long time for this tree to branch. If you are hoping to see the showy flower clusters, you may have to wait even longer. They only grow on established trees.
Can You Plant Ponytail Palms Outside?
If you live in a very warm climate like that found in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, growing ponytail palm outdoors is entirely feasible. They can grow to 30 feet tall, but rarely do as houseplants. Plant them as small, unusual specimen trees or else in containers on the patio. If you start a ponytail palm indoors and decide to move it to a permanent outdoor location, be patient and take your time. Ponytail palm plant care in this circumstance dictates that the plant be exposed to the increased light and altered temperature gradually, over a number of days or weeks.
How to Grow a Ponytail Palm Outside
Caring for ponytail palm outdoors requires a knowledge of ponytail palm plant care. These lovely little trees thrive in full sun with generous but infrequent irrigation. Overwatering is a serious problem for ponytail palms grown as houseplants. Remember that the common name of this plant is slightly misleading. The ponytail palm is not a palm at all but related to the water-sparing yucca family. Expect this plant to store water in its swollen trunk base to help it through dry, hot weather.
Growing ponytail palm outdoors is only possible in well-drained soils, since the plant develops root rot in wet earth. On the other hand, the plant accepts most soil types, including sandy and loamy. Even with the best ponytail palm plant care, you will have to wait a long time for this tree to branch. If you are hoping to see the showy flower clusters, you may have to wait even longer. They only grow on established trees.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are a fantastic addition to the home. They’re a little bit temperamental, but if you’re willing to put in the extra work, you’ll have a striking conversation piece. Keep reading to learn about good pitcher plants for hanging baskets.
Hanging Pitcher Plant Care
Hanging pitcher plants in baskets is the most effective way to grow them. In the wild, the plants vine up trees, and providing them with plenty of empty space will give them the air circulation they crave and allow the pitchers to grow to their full and most impressive extent.
Hanging pitcher plants thrive in light, well-draining soil that’s poor in nutrients but high in organic matter. This can be sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, or a store-bought orchid mix. Pitcher plants need high humidity – water frequently from above, and mist daily. Hang your basket somewhere it can receive full sun. Temperature is very important. Most species require daytime temperatures of 80 F. (26 C.) and higher, with a very marked temperature drop at night.
Pitcher Plants for Hanging Baskets
Pitcher plants are native to Southeast Asia and northern Australia and, for the most part, crave high temperatures and humid air. Many varieties, however, grow at high elevations and are used to much cooler temperatures. Pitcher plants cross pollinate very easily and, as such, there are a huge number of varieties and quite a few that are able to tolerate low temperatures. Nepenthes khasiana is a species that’s a good choice for beginners. It’s extremely hardy as pitcher plants go, with a tolerance range of 38-105 F. (3-40 C.). Nepenthes stenophylla can tolerate a narrower but still wide range of temperatures from 50-98 F. (10-36 C.). If you live in a hot area or have a greenhouse, however, your options are much greater. Nepenthes alata is easy to care for and forms bright red pitchers that can reach 7 inches (8 cm) in length. Nepenthes eymae produces wide, red speckled pitchers low on the plant and small green pitchers higher up, making for a nice, diverse look.
The number of species is enormous, however, so first get a sense of your area’s temperature range, and then look into what’s available.
Hanging Pitcher Plant Care
Hanging pitcher plants in baskets is the most effective way to grow them. In the wild, the plants vine up trees, and providing them with plenty of empty space will give them the air circulation they crave and allow the pitchers to grow to their full and most impressive extent.
Hanging pitcher plants thrive in light, well-draining soil that’s poor in nutrients but high in organic matter. This can be sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, or a store-bought orchid mix. Pitcher plants need high humidity – water frequently from above, and mist daily. Hang your basket somewhere it can receive full sun. Temperature is very important. Most species require daytime temperatures of 80 F. (26 C.) and higher, with a very marked temperature drop at night.
Pitcher Plants for Hanging Baskets
Pitcher plants are native to Southeast Asia and northern Australia and, for the most part, crave high temperatures and humid air. Many varieties, however, grow at high elevations and are used to much cooler temperatures. Pitcher plants cross pollinate very easily and, as such, there are a huge number of varieties and quite a few that are able to tolerate low temperatures. Nepenthes khasiana is a species that’s a good choice for beginners. It’s extremely hardy as pitcher plants go, with a tolerance range of 38-105 F. (3-40 C.). Nepenthes stenophylla can tolerate a narrower but still wide range of temperatures from 50-98 F. (10-36 C.). If you live in a hot area or have a greenhouse, however, your options are much greater. Nepenthes alata is easy to care for and forms bright red pitchers that can reach 7 inches (8 cm) in length. Nepenthes eymae produces wide, red speckled pitchers low on the plant and small green pitchers higher up, making for a nice, diverse look.
The number of species is enormous, however, so first get a sense of your area’s temperature range, and then look into what’s available.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plant is a fascinating carnivorous plant that has ornamental appeal while entertaining and educating on a unique method of feeding. Propagating pitcher plants can be done by tissue culture, seed or stem cuttings. Rooting cuttings is the more common method for a home gardener. Pitcher plant cuttings must be taken at the right time of the year and from a mature plant. Collectors know how to propagate a pitcher plant so we’ll take some tips from them and explore the world of pitcher plant growing.
How to Propagate a Pitcher Plant
The pitcher plant has a silhouette that most gardeners can recognize. The plants produce male and female flowers on separate plants. The two sexes appear identical and make it nearly impossible to ensure that you have one of each. Additionally, the plants need to be flowering at the same time in order for the male’s pollen to transfer to the female bloom. This is as likely as my winning the lottery in any environment but nature. Rooting cuttings is a far easier and surer way to propagate pitcher plants. There are two methods that should do the trick and produce new pitcher plants in a month or two.
Plants in nature produce offspring through seed. Baby plants take a long time to develop and fertilization is capricious in nature. A gardener who wants to undertake propagation through seed will need patience and a lot of luck. Tissue cultured plants are best left to those professionals in the nursery industry or someone with a botany degree. Cuttings, however, grow quickly and are easy for even a novice gardener to undertake. Cuttings from mature plants with actively growing stems work best. When the plant begins to produce vining stems, harvest a climbing stalk that has a basal rosette. Use a clean, sharp razor and take the stem just below a lower leaf with a growth bud. Count 3 nodes and make your cut.
Growing Pitcher Plants from Cuttings in Water
Once you have your cutting, it is time to root the material. Pitcher plant cuttings can be rooted in water or in a soilless medium. Use rain or distilled water and immerse the end of the cutting and the first growth node in the liquid. Place the glass in a bright area where temperatures are moderately warm. Change the water at least once per week. The stem should split in less than two weeks and begin to produce tiny rootlets. If the cutting is a piece of the tip of the stem, the end growth should continue growing. When the cutting has 6 rootlets, plant it in sphagnum moss. Keep the cutting moderately moist. In six months or more, the plant will develop a classic pitcher form. Propagating pitcher plants in this way is quite easy, but you have to watch the cutting for any signs of fungus or rot.
Pitcher Plant Cuttings in Moss
Harvesting a cutting that will grow in moss is the same as that for a water grown plant. Professionals use rooting hormone on the end of the cutting and often a fungicide. If you have a sterile medium, the fungicide is not necessary but the rooting hormone helps enhance the plant’s ability to send out rootlets. Sphagnum moss or a 50/50 mixture of coir and perlite create ideal conditions when growing pitcher plants from cuttings. Remove the bottom leaf and settle the stem into the medium with the remaining two leaves above the surface. Make sure the cutting has one growth bud below the surface of the medium. Lightly moisten the medium and place the container in a plastic bag. Keep the container in a brightly lit area. It can take six months to a year to see new growth while rooting takes place. Do not disturb or repot the plant until new growth is observed. It’s a tedious wait, but the benefits will be clear when your new pitcher plant begins to produce its characteristic hood.
How to Propagate a Pitcher Plant
The pitcher plant has a silhouette that most gardeners can recognize. The plants produce male and female flowers on separate plants. The two sexes appear identical and make it nearly impossible to ensure that you have one of each. Additionally, the plants need to be flowering at the same time in order for the male’s pollen to transfer to the female bloom. This is as likely as my winning the lottery in any environment but nature. Rooting cuttings is a far easier and surer way to propagate pitcher plants. There are two methods that should do the trick and produce new pitcher plants in a month or two.
Plants in nature produce offspring through seed. Baby plants take a long time to develop and fertilization is capricious in nature. A gardener who wants to undertake propagation through seed will need patience and a lot of luck. Tissue cultured plants are best left to those professionals in the nursery industry or someone with a botany degree. Cuttings, however, grow quickly and are easy for even a novice gardener to undertake. Cuttings from mature plants with actively growing stems work best. When the plant begins to produce vining stems, harvest a climbing stalk that has a basal rosette. Use a clean, sharp razor and take the stem just below a lower leaf with a growth bud. Count 3 nodes and make your cut.
Growing Pitcher Plants from Cuttings in Water
Once you have your cutting, it is time to root the material. Pitcher plant cuttings can be rooted in water or in a soilless medium. Use rain or distilled water and immerse the end of the cutting and the first growth node in the liquid. Place the glass in a bright area where temperatures are moderately warm. Change the water at least once per week. The stem should split in less than two weeks and begin to produce tiny rootlets. If the cutting is a piece of the tip of the stem, the end growth should continue growing. When the cutting has 6 rootlets, plant it in sphagnum moss. Keep the cutting moderately moist. In six months or more, the plant will develop a classic pitcher form. Propagating pitcher plants in this way is quite easy, but you have to watch the cutting for any signs of fungus or rot.
Pitcher Plant Cuttings in Moss
Harvesting a cutting that will grow in moss is the same as that for a water grown plant. Professionals use rooting hormone on the end of the cutting and often a fungicide. If you have a sterile medium, the fungicide is not necessary but the rooting hormone helps enhance the plant’s ability to send out rootlets. Sphagnum moss or a 50/50 mixture of coir and perlite create ideal conditions when growing pitcher plants from cuttings. Remove the bottom leaf and settle the stem into the medium with the remaining two leaves above the surface. Make sure the cutting has one growth bud below the surface of the medium. Lightly moisten the medium and place the container in a plastic bag. Keep the container in a brightly lit area. It can take six months to a year to see new growth while rooting takes place. Do not disturb or repot the plant until new growth is observed. It’s a tedious wait, but the benefits will be clear when your new pitcher plant begins to produce its characteristic hood.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are fascinating carnivorous plants that are surprisingly adaptable to the indoor environment. However, it’s important to keep in mind that there are many types of pitcher plants with many different needs, and some varieties can be a little on the fussy side. Read on to learn the basics of growing pitcher plant as a houseplant and pitcher plant care indoors.
How to Care for Pitcher Plant Indoors
Light – If possible, refer to the tag that came with your pitcher plant, as sunlight requirements vary depending on the species. Some require full sunlight and may need supplemental lighting year round, while types that originate in the floor of the rainforest may need filtered light. If you aren’t sure of the variety, place your plant in moderate to bright light and avoid, direct, intense sunlight. If the leaves turn yellow or the leaf edges look brown or scorched, move the plant into lower light. Water – When growing pitcher plant indoors, water as needed to keep the potting soil moist, but not soggy. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly after watering and never let the pot stand in water, as wet soil can cause the plant to rot. Most importantly, pitcher plants are sensitive to the chemicals in tap water and benefit greatly from distilled water or rain water.
Temperature – Indoor pitcher plant care generally requires warm temperatures between 65 and 80 F. (18-27 C.) Read the care tag, however, as some varieties prefer very warm nights while others need cooler nighttime temps between 45 and 65 F. (7-18 C.) Potting soil – Pitcher plants tolerate a wide range of potting mixtures as long as the mixture is relatively low in nutrients and provides excellent drainage. Many gardeners prefer a combination of half perlite and half dry sphagnum moss. You can also use a mixture of half sharp sand or perlite and half peat moss. Avoid regular commercial mix, which is too rich.
Feeding – Pitcher plants generally require no supplemental fertilizer, although you can mist the plants with a very dilute fertilizer solution during spring and summer (mix no more than ¼ to ½ teaspoon per gallon, using a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for bromeliads or orchids). Your adult pitcher plant will be happy if it can catch a couple of insects every month. If you don’t have bugs flying around your house, provide a freshly killed insect once in a while, (no insecticides!). Use only small bugs that fit easily into the pitchers. Don’t overfeed, and don’t be tempted to give your plants chunks of meat. Remember that carnivorous plants have very low nutrient requirements and too much food or fertilizer can be deadly.
How to Care for Pitcher Plant Indoors
Light – If possible, refer to the tag that came with your pitcher plant, as sunlight requirements vary depending on the species. Some require full sunlight and may need supplemental lighting year round, while types that originate in the floor of the rainforest may need filtered light. If you aren’t sure of the variety, place your plant in moderate to bright light and avoid, direct, intense sunlight. If the leaves turn yellow or the leaf edges look brown or scorched, move the plant into lower light. Water – When growing pitcher plant indoors, water as needed to keep the potting soil moist, but not soggy. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly after watering and never let the pot stand in water, as wet soil can cause the plant to rot. Most importantly, pitcher plants are sensitive to the chemicals in tap water and benefit greatly from distilled water or rain water.
Temperature – Indoor pitcher plant care generally requires warm temperatures between 65 and 80 F. (18-27 C.) Read the care tag, however, as some varieties prefer very warm nights while others need cooler nighttime temps between 45 and 65 F. (7-18 C.) Potting soil – Pitcher plants tolerate a wide range of potting mixtures as long as the mixture is relatively low in nutrients and provides excellent drainage. Many gardeners prefer a combination of half perlite and half dry sphagnum moss. You can also use a mixture of half sharp sand or perlite and half peat moss. Avoid regular commercial mix, which is too rich.
Feeding – Pitcher plants generally require no supplemental fertilizer, although you can mist the plants with a very dilute fertilizer solution during spring and summer (mix no more than ¼ to ½ teaspoon per gallon, using a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for bromeliads or orchids). Your adult pitcher plant will be happy if it can catch a couple of insects every month. If you don’t have bugs flying around your house, provide a freshly killed insect once in a while, (no insecticides!). Use only small bugs that fit easily into the pitchers. Don’t overfeed, and don’t be tempted to give your plants chunks of meat. Remember that carnivorous plants have very low nutrient requirements and too much food or fertilizer can be deadly.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are the type of carnivorous plant that sits and waits for bugs to fall into their pitcher traps. The tendril-shaped “pitchers” have a rim on the top that stops insects from climbing out once they get in. Generally, pitcher plants do not require much maintenance, but pruning a pitcher plant occasionally produces a more vigorous plant. Read on to learn how to prune a pitcher plant.
When to Prune Pitcher Plants
If you are wondering when to prune pitcher plants, understand that trimming pitcher plants is not a daily or weekly task. In fact, pitcher plants can go for a long time without requiring a pruning. Sometimes, however, pruning a pitcher plant will increase its vigor and create a fuller plant, and these are the pitcher plant pruning opportunities you want to take advantage of.
First, if your pitcher plant blooms, you should prune off the blossoms of a pitcher plant when they wilt, just as you deadhead other plants. This type of pitcher plant pruning is easy. You simply use a pair of garden scissors to cut off the stalk of the bloom at its base. If your pitcher plant has yellow or brown foliage, that part of the plant is dead. Trimming a pitcher plant to remove dead foliage is not difficult. You simply snip off the dead leaf at the point where it meets the stem of the plant.
How to Prune a Pitcher Plant
If you are wondering how to prune a pitcher plant when only a part of a leaf is yellow, like the leaf tip, follow these instructions. Use the scissor to cut the foliage just below the yellow part so that only the green part is left on the plant. The partial leaf can still do its job absorbing sunlight for the plant. If your pitcher plant has developed long foliage that looks untidy, pitcher plant pruning is in order. To tidy up messy plants, start trimming pitcher plants back with the scissors. Prune back each stem to a reasonable length. If the plant is old and uncared for, it will accept severe pruning. Pruning a pitcher plant encourages new growth to form.
If your pitcher plant is a tropical plant known as Nepenthes, or Monkey Cup, you may wonder about pitcher plant pruning for this species. Essentially, the instructions are the same. As pitchers and leaves die back naturally, trim them off to keep the plant vigorous. Prune back the green vine stems to encourage side shoots to grow.
When to Prune Pitcher Plants
If you are wondering when to prune pitcher plants, understand that trimming pitcher plants is not a daily or weekly task. In fact, pitcher plants can go for a long time without requiring a pruning. Sometimes, however, pruning a pitcher plant will increase its vigor and create a fuller plant, and these are the pitcher plant pruning opportunities you want to take advantage of.
First, if your pitcher plant blooms, you should prune off the blossoms of a pitcher plant when they wilt, just as you deadhead other plants. This type of pitcher plant pruning is easy. You simply use a pair of garden scissors to cut off the stalk of the bloom at its base. If your pitcher plant has yellow or brown foliage, that part of the plant is dead. Trimming a pitcher plant to remove dead foliage is not difficult. You simply snip off the dead leaf at the point where it meets the stem of the plant.
How to Prune a Pitcher Plant
If you are wondering how to prune a pitcher plant when only a part of a leaf is yellow, like the leaf tip, follow these instructions. Use the scissor to cut the foliage just below the yellow part so that only the green part is left on the plant. The partial leaf can still do its job absorbing sunlight for the plant. If your pitcher plant has developed long foliage that looks untidy, pitcher plant pruning is in order. To tidy up messy plants, start trimming pitcher plants back with the scissors. Prune back each stem to a reasonable length. If the plant is old and uncared for, it will accept severe pruning. Pruning a pitcher plant encourages new growth to form.
If your pitcher plant is a tropical plant known as Nepenthes, or Monkey Cup, you may wonder about pitcher plant pruning for this species. Essentially, the instructions are the same. As pitchers and leaves die back naturally, trim them off to keep the plant vigorous. Prune back the green vine stems to encourage side shoots to grow.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
If you have one pitcher plant and you’d like more, you may be thinking of growing pitcher plants from seed taken from its spent blooms. Pitcher plant seed sowing is one of the best ways to reproduce the beautiful plant. But like the seeds of other carnivorous plants, they need special treatment to give them their best chance at growing. Read on for information about how to grow pitcher plants from seed.
How to Grow Pitcher Plants from Seed
If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to provide them with a lot of humidity to get them to germinate. Experts recommend that pitcher plant growing take place in transparent pots that have lids to keep in the moisture. It is also possible to use regular pots with glass or plastic domes over them to serve the same purpose.
Most growers recommend that you use pure peat moss as a growing medium for pitcher plant seeds to be sure that it is sterile and won’t mold. You may also dust the seeds with a fungicide beforehand to control mold. You can mix in a little silica sand, or washed river sand, and perlite if you have some handy.
Stratification for Pitcher Plant Seeds
Pitcher plant seed growing requires stratification. This means that the seeds grow best when put in a cold location for several months before they germinate to reproduce the chilly winters of their native lands. Moisten the planting medium first, then sow pitcher plant seeds by placing them on the medium surface. Place the pots in a warm area for a few days, then in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks. After the appropriate amount of stratification time, move the entire pitcher plant seed growing operation to a warmer area with bright light. If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to be patient. Allow the pitcher plant seeds all the time they need to germinate.
Germination for carnivorous plants like the pitcher takes far longer than germination of flowers or garden vegetables. They rarely germinate within a few weeks. Many times they take months to start sprouting. Keep the soil moist and the plant in bright light, then try to forget about the seeds until you see the pitcher plant seed growing.
How to Grow Pitcher Plants from Seed
If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to provide them with a lot of humidity to get them to germinate. Experts recommend that pitcher plant growing take place in transparent pots that have lids to keep in the moisture. It is also possible to use regular pots with glass or plastic domes over them to serve the same purpose.
Most growers recommend that you use pure peat moss as a growing medium for pitcher plant seeds to be sure that it is sterile and won’t mold. You may also dust the seeds with a fungicide beforehand to control mold. You can mix in a little silica sand, or washed river sand, and perlite if you have some handy.
Stratification for Pitcher Plant Seeds
Pitcher plant seed growing requires stratification. This means that the seeds grow best when put in a cold location for several months before they germinate to reproduce the chilly winters of their native lands. Moisten the planting medium first, then sow pitcher plant seeds by placing them on the medium surface. Place the pots in a warm area for a few days, then in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks. After the appropriate amount of stratification time, move the entire pitcher plant seed growing operation to a warmer area with bright light. If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to be patient. Allow the pitcher plant seeds all the time they need to germinate.
Germination for carnivorous plants like the pitcher takes far longer than germination of flowers or garden vegetables. They rarely germinate within a few weeks. Many times they take months to start sprouting. Keep the soil moist and the plant in bright light, then try to forget about the seeds until you see the pitcher plant seed growing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Some indoor plant enthusiasts think pitcher plants are easy to grow, while others believe the carnivorous plants are headaches waiting to happen. The truth is somewhere in the middle, and for the most part, pitcher plants are happy if you can meet their needs for water, light and humidity. If you’re having carnivorous plant problems, such as a pitcher plant not making pitchers, it may require some troubleshooting to determine the problem. Read on for helpful tips.
My Pitcher Plant Has No Pitchers!
How to get pitchers on pitcher plants? Be patient, as pitcher plants take time to develop the first pitcher. Oftentimes, if the plant looks healthy and the tendrils are developing, a little time is all it needs. You’ll probably notice pitchers before you know it!
How to Get Pitchers on Pitcher Plants
If your plant doesn’t seem to be thriving in addition to not developing pitchers, the following tips will help with fixing pitcher plant problems: Light – Most pitcher plant varieties need at least three to four hours of bright sunlight per day. Failure to produce pitchers is an indication that the plant isn’t receiving adequate light. However, although the light should be bright, it should be indirect and not too intense. If the leaves are turning yellow, the plant may be getting a little too much light. Experimentation will help you determine the right amount of light for your plant. Water and potting mix – Pitcher plants don’t appreciate the minerals and additives in tap water. If possible, give them only filtered or distilled water. Better yet, collect rainwater and use it to water your pitcher plant. Water the pitcher plant whenever the top of the potting mix feels dry. The potting mix should never be bone dry, nor should it be soggy or waterlogged. Use a well-drained, low-nutrient potting mix such as a mix consisting of half sphagnum moss and half perlite, vermiculite or lava rock. Humidity – Although requirements vary depending on the species, most types of pitcher plants prefer relatively high humidity; excessively dry air can cause the plant not to develop pitchers. Mist the plant regularly or increase the humidity in your home with a humidifier. An easy way to increase the humidity around the plant is to place the pot on a humidity tray. Just place a layer of pebbles on a tray, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add just enough water to keep the pebbles wet, but be sure the pot is sitting on the pebbles but not standing in water. The plant will rot if water seeps up through the drainage hole.
Feeding – Pitcher plants require very little supplemental fertilizer, but they do benefit from a light feeding of an acidic fertilizer. Mix 1/8 teaspoon of acid fertilizer with 1 quart of water, or use a fertilizer formulated for orchids. Avoid over-feeding. Too much fertilizer can create a lush plant with no pitchers.
My Pitcher Plant Has No Pitchers!
How to get pitchers on pitcher plants? Be patient, as pitcher plants take time to develop the first pitcher. Oftentimes, if the plant looks healthy and the tendrils are developing, a little time is all it needs. You’ll probably notice pitchers before you know it!
How to Get Pitchers on Pitcher Plants
If your plant doesn’t seem to be thriving in addition to not developing pitchers, the following tips will help with fixing pitcher plant problems: Light – Most pitcher plant varieties need at least three to four hours of bright sunlight per day. Failure to produce pitchers is an indication that the plant isn’t receiving adequate light. However, although the light should be bright, it should be indirect and not too intense. If the leaves are turning yellow, the plant may be getting a little too much light. Experimentation will help you determine the right amount of light for your plant. Water and potting mix – Pitcher plants don’t appreciate the minerals and additives in tap water. If possible, give them only filtered or distilled water. Better yet, collect rainwater and use it to water your pitcher plant. Water the pitcher plant whenever the top of the potting mix feels dry. The potting mix should never be bone dry, nor should it be soggy or waterlogged. Use a well-drained, low-nutrient potting mix such as a mix consisting of half sphagnum moss and half perlite, vermiculite or lava rock. Humidity – Although requirements vary depending on the species, most types of pitcher plants prefer relatively high humidity; excessively dry air can cause the plant not to develop pitchers. Mist the plant regularly or increase the humidity in your home with a humidifier. An easy way to increase the humidity around the plant is to place the pot on a humidity tray. Just place a layer of pebbles on a tray, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add just enough water to keep the pebbles wet, but be sure the pot is sitting on the pebbles but not standing in water. The plant will rot if water seeps up through the drainage hole.
Feeding – Pitcher plants require very little supplemental fertilizer, but they do benefit from a light feeding of an acidic fertilizer. Mix 1/8 teaspoon of acid fertilizer with 1 quart of water, or use a fertilizer formulated for orchids. Avoid over-feeding. Too much fertilizer can create a lush plant with no pitchers.
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Misspgy：You Are brave
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are interesting and beautiful carnivorous plants that rely primarily on insect pests for sustenance. Do pitcher plants bloom? They certainly do, and pitcher plant flowers are just as fascinating as the colorful, mysterious pitchers. Read on for more pitcher plant (Sarracenia) flower information. 
Pitcher Plant Flowers
Have you noticed something different about your pitcher plant or one from someone else’s garden – something appearing somewhat like a flower? Then the plant is blooming, or getting ready to.
Flowers of pitcher plants make an appearance in a two- to three-week span of time in April or May, depending on the climate and the specific plant type. The flowers, which look much like upside-down umbrellas, rise above the pitchers, a functional design that serves to protect friendly pollinators from inadvertently getting caught in the pitcher.
Flowers of pitcher plants may be purple, red, burgundy, white, yellow or pink, which also varies depending on the type. In some cases, pitcher plant flower petals are multi-colored, and often, pitcher plant blooming is made even more dramatic by the contrasting stigma. Sometimes, the colorful blooms are sweetly scented, but may, on the other hand, have a less pleasant odor reminiscent of cat urine. Unlike the pitchers, which are deadly to visiting insects, pitcher plant flowers are perfectly harmless. In fact, the flowers function like regular flowers by providing insects (mostly bees) with nectar and pollen.
The spent flowers eventually shrivel, form seed capsules and scatter seeds for the production of brand new plants. One seed capsule can release as many as 300 tiny, papery seeds. Germination of a new pitcher plant from seed generally is a slow process with new flowers or pitchers developing after three to six years. Now that you know a little more about the flowering in pitcher plants, you have yet another reason to grow these wonderful, fun plants.
Pitcher Plant Flowers
Have you noticed something different about your pitcher plant or one from someone else’s garden – something appearing somewhat like a flower? Then the plant is blooming, or getting ready to.
Flowers of pitcher plants make an appearance in a two- to three-week span of time in April or May, depending on the climate and the specific plant type. The flowers, which look much like upside-down umbrellas, rise above the pitchers, a functional design that serves to protect friendly pollinators from inadvertently getting caught in the pitcher.
Flowers of pitcher plants may be purple, red, burgundy, white, yellow or pink, which also varies depending on the type. In some cases, pitcher plant flower petals are multi-colored, and often, pitcher plant blooming is made even more dramatic by the contrasting stigma. Sometimes, the colorful blooms are sweetly scented, but may, on the other hand, have a less pleasant odor reminiscent of cat urine. Unlike the pitchers, which are deadly to visiting insects, pitcher plant flowers are perfectly harmless. In fact, the flowers function like regular flowers by providing insects (mostly bees) with nectar and pollen.
The spent flowers eventually shrivel, form seed capsules and scatter seeds for the production of brand new plants. One seed capsule can release as many as 300 tiny, papery seeds. Germination of a new pitcher plant from seed generally is a slow process with new flowers or pitchers developing after three to six years. Now that you know a little more about the flowering in pitcher plants, you have yet another reason to grow these wonderful, fun plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants are exotic, fascinating plants, but they’re prone to many of the same problems that affect any other plant, including pests. If you’re wondering how to get rid of bugs on carnivorous plants, keep in mind that pitcher plant pest control can be tricky. Read on to find out why.
Pests of Pitcher Plants
Common pitcher plant problems include pests; and if you’re dealing with pitcher plant pests, you have a challenge on your hands. For example, beneficial insects that help control pests on most plants aren’t always very helpful. Why? Because the pitcher plant may dine on the helpful bugs! If that’s not bad enough, pitcher plants are sensitive to chemicals. Even non-toxic insecticidal soap spray may damage (or kill) pitcher plants.
So, how to get rid of bugs on carnivorous plants? Unless you really know what you’re doing, it’s best to remove pests manually. Here are a few of the most common offenders, along with some possible solutions:
Mealybugs – Mealybugs are tiny, sap-sucking insects with a waxy, cottony coating. They usually gather at the joints of stems and leaves. A cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol is often an effective solution. Alternatively, you can remove the pests with a toothpick. Caterpillars – Larval moths and butterflies are big and it’s hard to miss the ragged, chewed holes in the leaves. This one is easy – just pick the caterpillar pests off the plant and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Fungal gnats – Tiny flying gnats are often a problem for pitcher plants grown indoors. Although they are tremendous nuisances, fungus gnats usually aren’t harmful and, in fact, provide a healthy snack for the plants. However, it’s good to keep the pests in check because serious damage may result when the pitcher plant pests lay eggs in the soil. Many gardeners find that a thin layer of coarse horticultural sand over the surface of the potting soil discourages egg laying.
Slugs and snails – These slimy pests are the bane of outdoor plants, and pitcher plants are no exception. There are numerous ways to control slugs and snails, and you may need to experiment to determine which methods work best for you. For example, limit mulch, which provides a handy hiding place. Similarly, keep the area free of leaves and other debris. You may have good luck with a non-toxic slug bait, or a beer trap. It may be unpleasant and time consuming, but picking the pests off the plants by hand is a good way to go. Pick the slugs in evening or early morning (Tips: Use a flashlight. Wear gloves!). Thrips – Tiny thrips are hard to see, but they create havoc when they suck the juices from pitcher plants. The leaves often become dry and crisp, and you may notice tiny, sticky black spots. Some gardeners have good luck with systemic insecticides, but again, use chemicals with extreme care. Sticky traps are one non-toxic option. Scale – Another sap-sucking insect, scale is a tiny pest that hides under a hard, waxy shell. The shells are relatively easy to scrape off with a toothpick or soft toothbrush. Aphids – You might think pitcher plant would turn tiny green aphids into a hearty lunch, but aphids are apparently not attracted to the plentiful pests. Neem oil may be effective, but use the substance with caution. Some gardeners prefer pyrethrum-based insecticides, although others report that the substance killed their plant. The best recourse may be to simply squish the pests or pick them off with tweezers. Keep in mind that unhealthy plants are more prone to insect attacks. Water and fertilizer properly and make sure your plant has adequate sunlight and air circulation.
Pests of Pitcher Plants
Common pitcher plant problems include pests; and if you’re dealing with pitcher plant pests, you have a challenge on your hands. For example, beneficial insects that help control pests on most plants aren’t always very helpful. Why? Because the pitcher plant may dine on the helpful bugs! If that’s not bad enough, pitcher plants are sensitive to chemicals. Even non-toxic insecticidal soap spray may damage (or kill) pitcher plants.
So, how to get rid of bugs on carnivorous plants? Unless you really know what you’re doing, it’s best to remove pests manually. Here are a few of the most common offenders, along with some possible solutions:
Mealybugs – Mealybugs are tiny, sap-sucking insects with a waxy, cottony coating. They usually gather at the joints of stems and leaves. A cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol is often an effective solution. Alternatively, you can remove the pests with a toothpick. Caterpillars – Larval moths and butterflies are big and it’s hard to miss the ragged, chewed holes in the leaves. This one is easy – just pick the caterpillar pests off the plant and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Fungal gnats – Tiny flying gnats are often a problem for pitcher plants grown indoors. Although they are tremendous nuisances, fungus gnats usually aren’t harmful and, in fact, provide a healthy snack for the plants. However, it’s good to keep the pests in check because serious damage may result when the pitcher plant pests lay eggs in the soil. Many gardeners find that a thin layer of coarse horticultural sand over the surface of the potting soil discourages egg laying.
Slugs and snails – These slimy pests are the bane of outdoor plants, and pitcher plants are no exception. There are numerous ways to control slugs and snails, and you may need to experiment to determine which methods work best for you. For example, limit mulch, which provides a handy hiding place. Similarly, keep the area free of leaves and other debris. You may have good luck with a non-toxic slug bait, or a beer trap. It may be unpleasant and time consuming, but picking the pests off the plants by hand is a good way to go. Pick the slugs in evening or early morning (Tips: Use a flashlight. Wear gloves!). Thrips – Tiny thrips are hard to see, but they create havoc when they suck the juices from pitcher plants. The leaves often become dry and crisp, and you may notice tiny, sticky black spots. Some gardeners have good luck with systemic insecticides, but again, use chemicals with extreme care. Sticky traps are one non-toxic option. Scale – Another sap-sucking insect, scale is a tiny pest that hides under a hard, waxy shell. The shells are relatively easy to scrape off with a toothpick or soft toothbrush. Aphids – You might think pitcher plant would turn tiny green aphids into a hearty lunch, but aphids are apparently not attracted to the plentiful pests. Neem oil may be effective, but use the substance with caution. Some gardeners prefer pyrethrum-based insecticides, although others report that the substance killed their plant. The best recourse may be to simply squish the pests or pick them off with tweezers. Keep in mind that unhealthy plants are more prone to insect attacks. Water and fertilizer properly and make sure your plant has adequate sunlight and air circulation.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Nepenthes, often called pitcher plants, are native to tropical regions in South East Asia, India, Madagascar and Australia. They get their common name from the swellings in the mid-veins of the leaves that look like small pitchers. Nepenthes pitcher plants are often grown as houseplants in cooler climates. If you own one, you may see your pitcher plant leaves turning red. There are various possible reasons for a pitcher plant with red leaves; some require fixing, some do not.
Nepenthes Pitcher Plants
Nepenthes pitcher plants use their pitchers to attract insects, not for pollination but for nutrition. Insects are attracted to the pitchers by their nectar secretions and coloration. The rim and inner walls of the leaf swelling are slippery, causing visiting insects to slide into the pitcher. They get trapped in the digestive fluid, and absorbed by the nepenthes pitcher plants for their nutrients.
Pitcher Plant with Red Leaves
The standard color for mature pitcher plant leaves is green. If you see your pitcher plant leaves turning red, it may or may not signal a problem. If the pitcher plant leaves turning red are young leaves, the coloration can be perfectly normal. New leaves often grow in with a distinct reddish tinge. If, on the other hand, you see mature pitcher plant leaves turning red, it can be a cause for concern. You can determine whether a leaf is mature or new by its placement on the vine. Read on for information about fixing a nepenthes with red leaves.
Fixing a Nepenthes with Red Leaves
Too Much Light
Pitcher plants with red leaves can signal “sunburn,” caused by too much light. They generally require bright light, but not too much direct sun. Indoor plants can thrive with plant lights as long as they are broad spectrum and kept sufficiently far away to prevent overheating or scorching. Too much light can cause the leaves facing the light to turn red. Fix this problem by moving the plant farther from the light source.
Too Little Phosphorous
If your pitcher plant leaves become deep red in autumn, it can indicate inadequate phosphorus. Carnivorous nepenthes pitcher plants get phosphorus from the insects they attract and digest. These plants use phosphorus from insect meals to augment the green chlorophyll in its leaves for photosynthesis. A pitcher plant with red leaves may not have consumed enough insects to do this. One solution is to add small insects, like flies, to your mature pitchers.
Nepenthes Pitcher Plants
Nepenthes pitcher plants use their pitchers to attract insects, not for pollination but for nutrition. Insects are attracted to the pitchers by their nectar secretions and coloration. The rim and inner walls of the leaf swelling are slippery, causing visiting insects to slide into the pitcher. They get trapped in the digestive fluid, and absorbed by the nepenthes pitcher plants for their nutrients.
Pitcher Plant with Red Leaves
The standard color for mature pitcher plant leaves is green. If you see your pitcher plant leaves turning red, it may or may not signal a problem. If the pitcher plant leaves turning red are young leaves, the coloration can be perfectly normal. New leaves often grow in with a distinct reddish tinge. If, on the other hand, you see mature pitcher plant leaves turning red, it can be a cause for concern. You can determine whether a leaf is mature or new by its placement on the vine. Read on for information about fixing a nepenthes with red leaves.
Fixing a Nepenthes with Red Leaves
Too Much Light
Pitcher plants with red leaves can signal “sunburn,” caused by too much light. They generally require bright light, but not too much direct sun. Indoor plants can thrive with plant lights as long as they are broad spectrum and kept sufficiently far away to prevent overheating or scorching. Too much light can cause the leaves facing the light to turn red. Fix this problem by moving the plant farther from the light source.
Too Little Phosphorous
If your pitcher plant leaves become deep red in autumn, it can indicate inadequate phosphorus. Carnivorous nepenthes pitcher plants get phosphorus from the insects they attract and digest. These plants use phosphorus from insect meals to augment the green chlorophyll in its leaves for photosynthesis. A pitcher plant with red leaves may not have consumed enough insects to do this. One solution is to add small insects, like flies, to your mature pitchers.
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Misspgy：Such an AMAZING plant plus all your pictures are so Q
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Nepenthes (pitcher plants) are fascinating plants that survive by secreting sweet nectar that lures insects to the plant’s cup-like pitchers. Once the unsuspecting insect slides into the slippery pitcher, the plant’s fluids digest the bug in soupy, sticky liquid. There are many types of exotic pitcher plants, all surprisingly easy to grow once you learn how to meet the plant’s basic needs, including proper pitcher plant watering. Read on to learn what’s involved in watering a pitcher plant.
Pitcher Plant Watering
Pitcher plants like humid, boggy environments; this is the main thing to keep in mind when watering nepenthes. Feel the planting medium regularly, and water whenever the surface of the medium begins to feel slightly dry to the touch. The plant is likely to suffer if you allow the potting medium to become completely dry. How to water a pitcher plant? Watering nepenthes is actually very simple and not that different from watering any indoor plant. Just water the plant until moisture drips through the drainage hole, then allow the pot to drain thoroughly. Never let the plant sit in water. Although nepenthes like moist soil, the plants are prone to root rot in soggy, poorly-drained planting medium.
Tips on Watering Carnivorous Plants
Although pitcher plants (and other carnivorous plants) tolerate dry air, they frequently stop producing pitchers when the humidity drops below 50 percent. If the environment is dry, mist regularly or place the plant near a room humidifier. Placing the plant in a group with other plants also helps increase humidity around the plants. You can also increase humidity by placing the plant on a tray or plate with a layer of wet pebbles or gravel. Keep the pebbles consistently wet, but always keep the bottom of the pot above the water line. A terrarium is another option for pitcher plants in dry rooms. However, most pitcher plants do just fine in a less controlled environment.
Use filtered, distilled water or rainwater instead of tap water. If you use hard water from the tap, water deeply with distilled water every two to three weeks to flush minerals from the soil. Avoid air-conditioned rooms, which tend to be much too dry for pitcher plants.
Pitcher Plant Watering
Pitcher plants like humid, boggy environments; this is the main thing to keep in mind when watering nepenthes. Feel the planting medium regularly, and water whenever the surface of the medium begins to feel slightly dry to the touch. The plant is likely to suffer if you allow the potting medium to become completely dry. How to water a pitcher plant? Watering nepenthes is actually very simple and not that different from watering any indoor plant. Just water the plant until moisture drips through the drainage hole, then allow the pot to drain thoroughly. Never let the plant sit in water. Although nepenthes like moist soil, the plants are prone to root rot in soggy, poorly-drained planting medium.
Tips on Watering Carnivorous Plants
Although pitcher plants (and other carnivorous plants) tolerate dry air, they frequently stop producing pitchers when the humidity drops below 50 percent. If the environment is dry, mist regularly or place the plant near a room humidifier. Placing the plant in a group with other plants also helps increase humidity around the plants. You can also increase humidity by placing the plant on a tray or plate with a layer of wet pebbles or gravel. Keep the pebbles consistently wet, but always keep the bottom of the pot above the water line. A terrarium is another option for pitcher plants in dry rooms. However, most pitcher plants do just fine in a less controlled environment.
Use filtered, distilled water or rainwater instead of tap water. If you use hard water from the tap, water deeply with distilled water every two to three weeks to flush minerals from the soil. Avoid air-conditioned rooms, which tend to be much too dry for pitcher plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants have the appearance of an exotic, rare plant but they are actually native to parts of the United States. They grow in parts of Mississippi and Louisiana where soils are poor and nutrient levels must be acquired from other sources. The plants are carnivorous and have fleshy funnels or tubes that function as traps for insects and small animals. Growing pitcher plants as indoor plants is common, but raising them outdoors requires a little know-how. Learn how to grow a pitcher plant for an interesting conversation piece in the home interior or exterior garden.
Types of Pitcher Plants
There are around 80 types of pitcher plants found in the genus names Sarracenia, Nepenthes and Darlingtonia. Not all of these are suitable for outdoor growing, as Nepenthes are tropical pitcher plants, but purple pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea) has a zonal tolerance of 2 to 9 and is exceptionally adaptable to a wide range of areas. The northern pitcher plant is another name for the purple type and grows wild in Canada. It is suited for temperate to cool regions. Yellow pitcher plant (Sarracenia flava) is found in Texas and boggy parts of Florida. Parrot pitcher (Sarracenia psittacina) and the green spotted pitcher (syn. yellow pitcher plant) are warm season plants. Both are found on the endangered species list and are not available for sale. They should not be harvested from the wild either. Cobra pitcher plants (Darlingtonia californica) are native only to extreme northern California and southern Oregon. They are also more difficult to grow. Growing pitcher plants should start with a species that is native to your region or adaptable to the climate where you live.
How to Grow a Pitcher Plant
Growing pitcher plants is easy as long as you pay attention to some key items. Pitcher plant’s unusual shape and carnivorous habit are the result of nutrient deficiencies in their native soil. The regions where they grow are nitrogen deprived so the plant catches insects to harvest their nitrogen. Growing pitcher plants outdoors and pitcher plant care starts with the site and soil. They do not need rich organic soil but do need a medium that drains well. Potted pitcher plants need to be in well-drained soils. Use any type of pot for indoor plants and provide a low fertility mixture in which the plants will grow. For instance, the potted pitcher plant thrives in a mixture of peat moss, bark and vermiculite. The pot can be small and they can even do well in a terrarium. Outdoor specimens live in slightly acidic soils. Pitcher plants must be kept wet and can even grow in water gardens. The plants need boggy, moist soil and will perform well at the margins of a pond or bog garden. Pitcher plants thrive in full sun to light shade.
Care of Pitcher Plants
Caring for pitcher plants is minimal. The best temperature for pitcher plants that are grown inside is between 60 and 70 F. (16-21 C.). Indoor plants should be fertilized at the start of the growing season with a good orchid food and every month until fall. Most of the plant’s nutrient needs come from the insects they catch in the pitcher shaped organs. Because of this, the care of pitcher plants outdoors does not require much fertilization. Outdoor plants will naturally lose some of the pitcher shaped leaves. Cut them off as they die back. New leaves will form from the rosette base. Pitcher plant care also includes protecting plants in the ground from freezes by mounding mulch around the base of the rosette.
Types of Pitcher Plants
There are around 80 types of pitcher plants found in the genus names Sarracenia, Nepenthes and Darlingtonia. Not all of these are suitable for outdoor growing, as Nepenthes are tropical pitcher plants, but purple pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea) has a zonal tolerance of 2 to 9 and is exceptionally adaptable to a wide range of areas. The northern pitcher plant is another name for the purple type and grows wild in Canada. It is suited for temperate to cool regions. Yellow pitcher plant (Sarracenia flava) is found in Texas and boggy parts of Florida. Parrot pitcher (Sarracenia psittacina) and the green spotted pitcher (syn. yellow pitcher plant) are warm season plants. Both are found on the endangered species list and are not available for sale. They should not be harvested from the wild either. Cobra pitcher plants (Darlingtonia californica) are native only to extreme northern California and southern Oregon. They are also more difficult to grow. Growing pitcher plants should start with a species that is native to your region or adaptable to the climate where you live.
How to Grow a Pitcher Plant
Growing pitcher plants is easy as long as you pay attention to some key items. Pitcher plant’s unusual shape and carnivorous habit are the result of nutrient deficiencies in their native soil. The regions where they grow are nitrogen deprived so the plant catches insects to harvest their nitrogen. Growing pitcher plants outdoors and pitcher plant care starts with the site and soil. They do not need rich organic soil but do need a medium that drains well. Potted pitcher plants need to be in well-drained soils. Use any type of pot for indoor plants and provide a low fertility mixture in which the plants will grow. For instance, the potted pitcher plant thrives in a mixture of peat moss, bark and vermiculite. The pot can be small and they can even do well in a terrarium. Outdoor specimens live in slightly acidic soils. Pitcher plants must be kept wet and can even grow in water gardens. The plants need boggy, moist soil and will perform well at the margins of a pond or bog garden. Pitcher plants thrive in full sun to light shade.
Care of Pitcher Plants
Caring for pitcher plants is minimal. The best temperature for pitcher plants that are grown inside is between 60 and 70 F. (16-21 C.). Indoor plants should be fertilized at the start of the growing season with a good orchid food and every month until fall. Most of the plant’s nutrient needs come from the insects they catch in the pitcher shaped organs. Because of this, the care of pitcher plants outdoors does not require much fertilization. Outdoor plants will naturally lose some of the pitcher shaped leaves. Cut them off as they die back. New leaves will form from the rosette base. Pitcher plant care also includes protecting plants in the ground from freezes by mounding mulch around the base of the rosette.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Growing Persian violet indoors can add a splash of color and interest to the home. These easy to care for plants will reward you with beautiful blooms when given optimal conditions. Read on for more about Persian violet plant care.
What is a Persian Violet?
Persian violet (Exacum affine), or Exacum Persian violet, is an attractive perennial with bluish or white star-shaped flowers and shiny green leaves. These plants can be grown indoors, but they also flourish outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-11. This violet is usually purchased in full bloom and the flowers are evenly spaced over a rounded ball of foliage. The Persian violet blooms for about three or four months; after that, it can be difficult to get it to bloom again. A good thought to have with this plant is to enjoy it while you can!
Growing Persian Violets Indoors
The care of Persian violet houseplants is relatively easy. The best thing to do is to buy a plant that has many unopened buds. This way, you will get to enjoy each blooming flower. The Persian violet loves bright light, but not direct light, so it would be best to keep the plant near a window. They enjoy cooler rooms and higher humidity. Doing this will keep the flowers blooming for three to four months. Keep the soil moist and be careful not to water it too much; this will cause rotting of the roots. Root rot is the most common problem with these plants. If it should happen, you will have to discard the plant. A sign that your Persian violet has root rot is wilting of the leaves. If you leave dried flowers on the plant, they will start to create seeds. Should this happen, it will shorten the life span of the plant. To avoid this, pop off the dead flower heads as soon as you notice them.
Persian Violet Plant Care After Blooming
Once your Persian violet has lost all its blooms and the foliage turns yellow, it is moving into the dormant stage. Stop watering the plant and place it in a cool room with moderate light. The leaves will eventually dry out. Complete drying takes approximately two months. When this happens, remove the tuber and transplant it in a pot that is one size bigger. Fill the pot with peat moss potting mixture and place the tuber in the soil so that the top half sticks out. Do not water the tuber until leaves appear next season. When you see new growth, place your Persian violet near a window. The plant should bloom again, but the flowers may be smaller and you may get fewer of them.
What is a Persian Violet?
Persian violet (Exacum affine), or Exacum Persian violet, is an attractive perennial with bluish or white star-shaped flowers and shiny green leaves. These plants can be grown indoors, but they also flourish outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-11. This violet is usually purchased in full bloom and the flowers are evenly spaced over a rounded ball of foliage. The Persian violet blooms for about three or four months; after that, it can be difficult to get it to bloom again. A good thought to have with this plant is to enjoy it while you can!
Growing Persian Violets Indoors
The care of Persian violet houseplants is relatively easy. The best thing to do is to buy a plant that has many unopened buds. This way, you will get to enjoy each blooming flower. The Persian violet loves bright light, but not direct light, so it would be best to keep the plant near a window. They enjoy cooler rooms and higher humidity. Doing this will keep the flowers blooming for three to four months. Keep the soil moist and be careful not to water it too much; this will cause rotting of the roots. Root rot is the most common problem with these plants. If it should happen, you will have to discard the plant. A sign that your Persian violet has root rot is wilting of the leaves. If you leave dried flowers on the plant, they will start to create seeds. Should this happen, it will shorten the life span of the plant. To avoid this, pop off the dead flower heads as soon as you notice them.
Persian Violet Plant Care After Blooming
Once your Persian violet has lost all its blooms and the foliage turns yellow, it is moving into the dormant stage. Stop watering the plant and place it in a cool room with moderate light. The leaves will eventually dry out. Complete drying takes approximately two months. When this happens, remove the tuber and transplant it in a pot that is one size bigger. Fill the pot with peat moss potting mixture and place the tuber in the soil so that the top half sticks out. Do not water the tuber until leaves appear next season. When you see new growth, place your Persian violet near a window. The plant should bloom again, but the flowers may be smaller and you may get fewer of them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
The Peperomia houseplant is an attractive addition to a desk, a table or as a member of your houseplant collection. Peperomia care is not difficult and Peperomia plants have a compact form that lets them occupy a small space wherever you choose to place them.
Types of Peperomias
More than 1,000 types of Peperomias exist, but not all are cultivated and grown for distribution to the public. Plant collectors may have an unusual variety, as may arboretums or indoor displays at botanical gardens. Several types of Peperomia houseplants can brighten your indoor displays. Following are some of the most widely available types of Peperomias: Heart shaped leaves and foliage texture similar to a waffle make growing a Peperomia like Peperomia caperata a pleasure. The attractive leaves and stems may have a silvery or burgundy tint peeking through the green. The watermelon Peperomia, P. argyreia, has silver stripes with elliptical shaped leaves. Both this and the previous Peperomia plant reach only 8 inches in height and width if planted in a container large enough to allow for root development. Plants have a mounding habit with draping leaves. Peperomia obtusifolia, the baby rubber plant, has a more upright demeanor. Some of these types of Peperomias have solid green, shiny leaves, while others are variegated with gold and white coloration. P. obtusifolia `Minima’ is a dwarf specimen, reaching about half the size of the standard.
Peperomia Care
When growing a Peperomia, locate the plant in a medium to low light situation away from direct sun. You may also grow Peperomia plants under fluorescent lighting. Grow Peperomia plants in a light houseplant mixture with perlite or coarse gravel included to allow roots to receive air circulation necessary for the health and development of your plant. If your peperomia plants are wilting, in spite of regular watering, the plant is likely not getting enough oxygen to the roots.
Water Peperomia houseplants sparingly and allow the soil to dry as deep as 5 inches between waterings. Fertilize occasionally with a balanced houseplant food after watering. Leach the plant in summer by flushing with water to remove the salts left behind by fertilization. Repot Peperomias in spring, but keep pots small unless you are growing Peperomia as part of a container combination.
Types of Peperomias
More than 1,000 types of Peperomias exist, but not all are cultivated and grown for distribution to the public. Plant collectors may have an unusual variety, as may arboretums or indoor displays at botanical gardens. Several types of Peperomia houseplants can brighten your indoor displays. Following are some of the most widely available types of Peperomias: Heart shaped leaves and foliage texture similar to a waffle make growing a Peperomia like Peperomia caperata a pleasure. The attractive leaves and stems may have a silvery or burgundy tint peeking through the green. The watermelon Peperomia, P. argyreia, has silver stripes with elliptical shaped leaves. Both this and the previous Peperomia plant reach only 8 inches in height and width if planted in a container large enough to allow for root development. Plants have a mounding habit with draping leaves. Peperomia obtusifolia, the baby rubber plant, has a more upright demeanor. Some of these types of Peperomias have solid green, shiny leaves, while others are variegated with gold and white coloration. P. obtusifolia `Minima’ is a dwarf specimen, reaching about half the size of the standard.
Peperomia Care
When growing a Peperomia, locate the plant in a medium to low light situation away from direct sun. You may also grow Peperomia plants under fluorescent lighting. Grow Peperomia plants in a light houseplant mixture with perlite or coarse gravel included to allow roots to receive air circulation necessary for the health and development of your plant. If your peperomia plants are wilting, in spite of regular watering, the plant is likely not getting enough oxygen to the roots.
Water Peperomia houseplants sparingly and allow the soil to dry as deep as 5 inches between waterings. Fertilize occasionally with a balanced houseplant food after watering. Leach the plant in summer by flushing with water to remove the salts left behind by fertilization. Repot Peperomias in spring, but keep pots small unless you are growing Peperomia as part of a container combination.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Growing peace lily in an aquarium is an unusual, exotic way to display this deep green, leafy plant. Although you can grow peace lily aquarium plants without fish, many people like to add a betta fish to the aquarium, which makes the underwater environment even more colorful. Read on to learn how to grow peace lilies in fish tanks and aquariums.
Growing Peace Lily in an Aquarium or Container
Select a wide-based aquarium that holds at least a quart of water. Clear glass is best, especially if you plan to add a betta fish. Pet stores sell inexpensive goldfish bowls that work very well. Rinse the container thoroughly, but don’t use soap.
Select a small to medium-size peace lily with a healthy root system. Be sure the diameter of the peace lily is smaller than the opening of the container. If the opening of the aquarium is too crowded, the plant may not receive enough air. You’ll also need a plastic plant tray; craft knife or scissors; decorative rock, pebbles or aquarium gravel; a jug of distilled water; large bucket and a betta fish, if you choose. You may also want to add figurines or other decorative accessories.
How to Grow Peace Lilies in Fish Tanks or Aquariums
The first step is to create a lid from the plastic plant tray, as this will serve as a support for the peace lily. Use a sharp craft knife or scissors to trim the plant tray (or similar object) so that it fits snugly into the opening without falling through. Cut a hole in the center of the plastic. The hole should be about the size of a quarter, but probably no larger than a silver dollar, depending on the size of the root mass. Rinse the decorative rocks or gravel thoroughly (again, no soap) and arrange them in the bottom of the aquarium or fish tank. Pour room temperature distilled water into the aquarium, up to about 2 inches from the rim. (You can also use tap water, but be sure to add a water de-chlorinator, which you can purchase at pet stores.) Remove the soil from the roots of the peace lily. Although you can do this in the sink, the easiest method is to fill a large bucket with water, then swish the roots of the lily gently through the water until ALL of the soil is removed. Once the soil has been removed, trim the roots neatly and evenly so they don’t touch the bottom of the aquarium. Feed the roots through the plastic “lid” with the peace lily plant resting on the top and the roots below. (This is where you will add a betta fish, if you choose to do so.) Insert the lid into the fish bowl or aquarium, with the roots dangling into the water.
Care of Peace Lily in Aquariums
Place the aquarium where the peace lily is exposed to low light, such as under a fluorescent light or near a north- or east-facing window. Change one-quarter of the water every week to keep it clear and clean, especially if you decide to add a fish. Avoid flake food, which will cloud the water very quickly. Remove the fish, clean the tank and fill it with fresh water whenever it begins to look brackish – usually every couple of weeks.
Growing Peace Lily in an Aquarium or Container
Select a wide-based aquarium that holds at least a quart of water. Clear glass is best, especially if you plan to add a betta fish. Pet stores sell inexpensive goldfish bowls that work very well. Rinse the container thoroughly, but don’t use soap.
Select a small to medium-size peace lily with a healthy root system. Be sure the diameter of the peace lily is smaller than the opening of the container. If the opening of the aquarium is too crowded, the plant may not receive enough air. You’ll also need a plastic plant tray; craft knife or scissors; decorative rock, pebbles or aquarium gravel; a jug of distilled water; large bucket and a betta fish, if you choose. You may also want to add figurines or other decorative accessories.
How to Grow Peace Lilies in Fish Tanks or Aquariums
The first step is to create a lid from the plastic plant tray, as this will serve as a support for the peace lily. Use a sharp craft knife or scissors to trim the plant tray (or similar object) so that it fits snugly into the opening without falling through. Cut a hole in the center of the plastic. The hole should be about the size of a quarter, but probably no larger than a silver dollar, depending on the size of the root mass. Rinse the decorative rocks or gravel thoroughly (again, no soap) and arrange them in the bottom of the aquarium or fish tank. Pour room temperature distilled water into the aquarium, up to about 2 inches from the rim. (You can also use tap water, but be sure to add a water de-chlorinator, which you can purchase at pet stores.) Remove the soil from the roots of the peace lily. Although you can do this in the sink, the easiest method is to fill a large bucket with water, then swish the roots of the lily gently through the water until ALL of the soil is removed. Once the soil has been removed, trim the roots neatly and evenly so they don’t touch the bottom of the aquarium. Feed the roots through the plastic “lid” with the peace lily plant resting on the top and the roots below. (This is where you will add a betta fish, if you choose to do so.) Insert the lid into the fish bowl or aquarium, with the roots dangling into the water.
Care of Peace Lily in Aquariums
Place the aquarium where the peace lily is exposed to low light, such as under a fluorescent light or near a north- or east-facing window. Change one-quarter of the water every week to keep it clear and clean, especially if you decide to add a fish. Avoid flake food, which will cloud the water very quickly. Remove the fish, clean the tank and fill it with fresh water whenever it begins to look brackish – usually every couple of weeks.
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