文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber tree plants, (Ficus elastica) tend to get rather large and need to be pruned in order to control their size. Overgrown rubber trees have difficulty supporting the weight of their branches, resulting in an unsightly display and possible snapping of the branches. Pruning a rubber tree plant isn’t overly complicated and it actually responds well to pruning. 
When to Prune a Rubber Tree
Rubber tree plants are quite resilient and rubber tree trimming can basically take place any time of the year. In fact, branches that are out of sorts can be removed without any damage to the plant. However, these plants will usually respond faster to pruning during late spring or early summer—around June. This is also considered a good time for taking cuttings, as they are thought to root quicker and easier.
How to Trim a Rubber Tree Plant
Whether it’s simply a subtle, orderly trim or a hard, heavy prune, rubber tree trimming takes little effort and results in a nice, full plant. As long as you keep in mind the fact that this plant grows back from the next nodes down, you can cut it to whatever length and style you want. Before you prune a rubber tree, make sure your pruning shears are clean and sharp. It may also be a good idea to wear gloves to prevent any irritation from its milk-like sap.
Step back and study the shape of your tree to get an idea of how you would like it to look. Prune rubber tree plant by making your cuts just above a node — where the leaf attaches to the stem or where another stem branches off. You can also prune just above a leaf scar. Remove about a third to one-half of the plant’s branches but take care not to remove too much foliage than is necessary. New growth will eventually appear from these cuts so don’t be alarmed if the plant seems a bit haggard looking following pruning.
When to Prune a Rubber Tree
Rubber tree plants are quite resilient and rubber tree trimming can basically take place any time of the year. In fact, branches that are out of sorts can be removed without any damage to the plant. However, these plants will usually respond faster to pruning during late spring or early summer—around June. This is also considered a good time for taking cuttings, as they are thought to root quicker and easier.
How to Trim a Rubber Tree Plant
Whether it’s simply a subtle, orderly trim or a hard, heavy prune, rubber tree trimming takes little effort and results in a nice, full plant. As long as you keep in mind the fact that this plant grows back from the next nodes down, you can cut it to whatever length and style you want. Before you prune a rubber tree, make sure your pruning shears are clean and sharp. It may also be a good idea to wear gloves to prevent any irritation from its milk-like sap.
Step back and study the shape of your tree to get an idea of how you would like it to look. Prune rubber tree plant by making your cuts just above a node — where the leaf attaches to the stem or where another stem branches off. You can also prune just above a leaf scar. Remove about a third to one-half of the plant’s branches but take care not to remove too much foliage than is necessary. New growth will eventually appear from these cuts so don’t be alarmed if the plant seems a bit haggard looking following pruning.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
If your rubber plant is losing leaves, it can be alarming. It can leave a plant owner wondering, “Why do leaves drop off rubber plants?” There are many reasons for leaves falling off rubber tree plant.
Causes of Rubber Tree Plant Leaves Falling Off
Light Change – A common reason for a rubber plant losing leaves is a change in the light. Many times, this will happen when you bring your rubber tree plant in from outdoors, and this change can cause a total drop of the rubber tree leaves. A few rubber tree leaves may fall off the plant with the change from summer to fall, when light levels change.
Acclimating the plant slowly when you bring it indoors and shining a few plant lights on the rubber tree will help keep the light levels up and keep the rubber plant from losing leaves. Pests – Pests are another common reason for rubber tree plant leaves falling off. In particular, rubber tree plants are susceptible to being infested with scale bugs, and these pests will cause the leaves to drop off until the plant is treated.
Treat scale or other pests with an insecticide like neem oil. Humidity – Rubber tree plants need higher humidity. Houses can be dry, especially in the winter when the heat is on. This lack of humidity can cause leaves falling off rubber tree plant. To correct this problem, mist the rubber tree plant daily or set the plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water to increase humidity. Air Drafts – Rubber tree plants are susceptible to cold air and while your home may be the right temperature for rubber tree plant, cold drafts from windows or doors in your home may be hitting the plant and causing the rubber tree leaves to fall off. Move the plant away from any draft windows or doors that may be letting a draft in when it opens.
Over Fertilization – Rubber tree plants are frequently killed with kindness from their owners. One way this happens is that a rubber tree owner will fertilize the plant too often, and this causes a rubber plant to lose leaves. Rubber tree plants only need to be fertilized once in awhile. They need very little feeding. Over Watering – Another way that rubber tree owners can over care for their plant is by over watering the plant. When a rubber tree plant is over watered, it can shed its leaves. Only water the plant when the top of the soil is dry.
Causes of Rubber Tree Plant Leaves Falling Off
Light Change – A common reason for a rubber plant losing leaves is a change in the light. Many times, this will happen when you bring your rubber tree plant in from outdoors, and this change can cause a total drop of the rubber tree leaves. A few rubber tree leaves may fall off the plant with the change from summer to fall, when light levels change.
Acclimating the plant slowly when you bring it indoors and shining a few plant lights on the rubber tree will help keep the light levels up and keep the rubber plant from losing leaves. Pests – Pests are another common reason for rubber tree plant leaves falling off. In particular, rubber tree plants are susceptible to being infested with scale bugs, and these pests will cause the leaves to drop off until the plant is treated.
Treat scale or other pests with an insecticide like neem oil. Humidity – Rubber tree plants need higher humidity. Houses can be dry, especially in the winter when the heat is on. This lack of humidity can cause leaves falling off rubber tree plant. To correct this problem, mist the rubber tree plant daily or set the plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water to increase humidity. Air Drafts – Rubber tree plants are susceptible to cold air and while your home may be the right temperature for rubber tree plant, cold drafts from windows or doors in your home may be hitting the plant and causing the rubber tree leaves to fall off. Move the plant away from any draft windows or doors that may be letting a draft in when it opens.
Over Fertilization – Rubber tree plants are frequently killed with kindness from their owners. One way this happens is that a rubber tree owner will fertilize the plant too often, and this causes a rubber plant to lose leaves. Rubber tree plants only need to be fertilized once in awhile. They need very little feeding. Over Watering – Another way that rubber tree owners can over care for their plant is by over watering the plant. When a rubber tree plant is over watered, it can shed its leaves. Only water the plant when the top of the soil is dry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber trees are hardy and versatile houseplants, which leads many people to wonder, “How do you get a start of a rubber tree plant?” Propagating rubber tree plants is easy and means that you will have starts for all of your friends and family. Keep reading to learn how to propagate a rubber tree so that you can give your friends a free rubber tree plant.
Propagate a Rubber Tree Plant with Cuttings
Rubber tree plants can grow very tall and this means an indoor rubber tree occasionally needs to be pruned. After pruning, don’t throw out those cuttings; instead, use them to propagate a rubber tree plant.
Propagate a rubber tree plant from cuttings starts with getting a good cutting. The cutting should be about 6 inches long and have at least two sets of leaves. The next step in how to start a rubber tree plant from cuttings is to remove the bottom set of leaves from the cutting. If you would like, you can dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Then, place the rubber tree cutting in moist but well-draining potting soil. Cover the cutting with either a jar or clear plastic, but make sure that the intact leaves do not touch the glass or plastic. If you need to, you can cut the remaining leaves in half, removing the half that is not attached to the stem. Place the rubber tree plant cutting in a warm place that is lit by only indirect light. In two to three weeks, the rubber tree cutting should have developed roots and the covering can be removed.
Using Air Layering for Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Another way to propagate a rubber tree plant is by using air layering. This method basically leaves the “cutting” on the rubber tree while it is rooting. The first step in propagating a rubber tree with air layering is to choose a stem to make into a new plant. The stem should be at least 12 inches long, but can be longer if you would like. Next, remove any leaves immediately above and below the area where you will be rooting the stem, then take a sharp knife and carefully remove a 1-inch wide strip of bark that goes all the way around the stem. You should have a “naked” ring that goes around the stem of the rubber tree plant. Remove all of the soft tissue in that ring, but leave the hard center wood intact.
After this, dust the ring with rooting hormone and cover the ring with damp sphagnum moss. Secure the sphagnum moss to the stem with a plastic covering. Make sure the moss is completely covered. The plastic will help keep the sphagnum moss damp as well. In two to three weeks, the stem of the rubber tree should have developed roots at the ring. After it has developed roots, cut the rooted stem from the mother plant and repot the new plant.
Propagate a Rubber Tree Plant with Cuttings
Rubber tree plants can grow very tall and this means an indoor rubber tree occasionally needs to be pruned. After pruning, don’t throw out those cuttings; instead, use them to propagate a rubber tree plant.
Propagate a rubber tree plant from cuttings starts with getting a good cutting. The cutting should be about 6 inches long and have at least two sets of leaves. The next step in how to start a rubber tree plant from cuttings is to remove the bottom set of leaves from the cutting. If you would like, you can dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Then, place the rubber tree cutting in moist but well-draining potting soil. Cover the cutting with either a jar or clear plastic, but make sure that the intact leaves do not touch the glass or plastic. If you need to, you can cut the remaining leaves in half, removing the half that is not attached to the stem. Place the rubber tree plant cutting in a warm place that is lit by only indirect light. In two to three weeks, the rubber tree cutting should have developed roots and the covering can be removed.
Using Air Layering for Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Another way to propagate a rubber tree plant is by using air layering. This method basically leaves the “cutting” on the rubber tree while it is rooting. The first step in propagating a rubber tree with air layering is to choose a stem to make into a new plant. The stem should be at least 12 inches long, but can be longer if you would like. Next, remove any leaves immediately above and below the area where you will be rooting the stem, then take a sharp knife and carefully remove a 1-inch wide strip of bark that goes all the way around the stem. You should have a “naked” ring that goes around the stem of the rubber tree plant. Remove all of the soft tissue in that ring, but leave the hard center wood intact.
After this, dust the ring with rooting hormone and cover the ring with damp sphagnum moss. Secure the sphagnum moss to the stem with a plastic covering. Make sure the moss is completely covered. The plastic will help keep the sphagnum moss damp as well. In two to three weeks, the stem of the rubber tree should have developed roots at the ring. After it has developed roots, cut the rooted stem from the mother plant and repot the new plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti and succulents make outstanding landscaping plants. They require little maintenance, grow in a variety of climates, and are easy to care for and grow. Most will even tolerate neglect. These plants are also well adapted to potted environments, making them excellent candidates for growing indoors as well.
Types of Cacti
Cacti vary in size, color, shape and growing habits. They may grow in upright columns, spreading clumps or spiny balls. They might even be found cascading over large rocks or in hanging baskets. Cacti are available in numerous varieties too, many of which produce stunning flowers. While many types of cactus are native to desert climates, most will tolerate a number of growing conditions. This versatility makes cactus landscaping possible nearly anywhere. Some popular types of cacti found in landscape settings include: Prickly pear cactus – known for its broad, flat prickly stems, of which the tips turn coral colored in bright sun. Barrel cactus – resembles spine-covered barrels. Cholla cactus – has thin round stems and is quite attractive when used as a focal point within the landscape. Pincushion cactus – resembling a small pincushion with its tiny spines sticking out from its round ball-like shape, it makes an interesting addition to the garden. Totem pole cactus – characterized by their large height and spineless column shape. Organ pipe cactus – grows in clusters that look similar to its name-organ pipes.
Cactus Landscaping Tips
When landscaping with cactus and succulent plants, you should always do your homework first. Learn more about their individual growing requirements and try to match these requirements to that of your landscape. Cactus plants have a number of survival tactics that allow them to adapt to a particular environment; however, it’s always better to choose those that are more likely to thrive in your particular area. Including a variety of cacti that share similar growing needs but with different heights and textures will add interest to the cactus garden.
Growing Cactus Outdoors
When growing cactus outdoors, choose a sunny, sloped location whenever possible. Locating cactus on a slope allows for better drainage, which is vital when dealing with these plants. Depending on the types of cactus chosen, beds should be about 6 to 12 inches deep with well-drained soil specially formulated for cactus plants. This can be purchased or mixed yourself using two parts potting soil, two parts sand, and one part gravel. Cactus plants also enjoy a moderate layer of mulch such as pebbles, rocks, or similar substance. Once established, cacti require little maintenance and very little, if any, water.
Types of Cacti
Cacti vary in size, color, shape and growing habits. They may grow in upright columns, spreading clumps or spiny balls. They might even be found cascading over large rocks or in hanging baskets. Cacti are available in numerous varieties too, many of which produce stunning flowers. While many types of cactus are native to desert climates, most will tolerate a number of growing conditions. This versatility makes cactus landscaping possible nearly anywhere. Some popular types of cacti found in landscape settings include: Prickly pear cactus – known for its broad, flat prickly stems, of which the tips turn coral colored in bright sun. Barrel cactus – resembles spine-covered barrels. Cholla cactus – has thin round stems and is quite attractive when used as a focal point within the landscape. Pincushion cactus – resembling a small pincushion with its tiny spines sticking out from its round ball-like shape, it makes an interesting addition to the garden. Totem pole cactus – characterized by their large height and spineless column shape. Organ pipe cactus – grows in clusters that look similar to its name-organ pipes.
Cactus Landscaping Tips
When landscaping with cactus and succulent plants, you should always do your homework first. Learn more about their individual growing requirements and try to match these requirements to that of your landscape. Cactus plants have a number of survival tactics that allow them to adapt to a particular environment; however, it’s always better to choose those that are more likely to thrive in your particular area. Including a variety of cacti that share similar growing needs but with different heights and textures will add interest to the cactus garden.
Growing Cactus Outdoors
When growing cactus outdoors, choose a sunny, sloped location whenever possible. Locating cactus on a slope allows for better drainage, which is vital when dealing with these plants. Depending on the types of cactus chosen, beds should be about 6 to 12 inches deep with well-drained soil specially formulated for cactus plants. This can be purchased or mixed yourself using two parts potting soil, two parts sand, and one part gravel. Cactus plants also enjoy a moderate layer of mulch such as pebbles, rocks, or similar substance. Once established, cacti require little maintenance and very little, if any, water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
It can be frustrating to find one of your prized cactus plants leaking sap. Do not let this put you off, however. Let’s take a look at reasons for sap leaking from a cactus plant. Why is My Cactus Oozing Sap?
There are several reasons for sap leaking from a cactus. It could be an indication of a fungal disease, pest problem, tissue injury or even the result of freezing or excess sun exposure. You will need to become a detective and round up the clues to diagnose the issue by the process of elimination. It’s important to verify that correct care is given, as improper cultivation can also be a cause of a cactus oozing sap. Put your frock coat and bowler on and let’s get investigating!
Cultivation Problems
Oozing cactus plants can be the result of a number of different things. Overwatering, poor drainage, lack of light, too much concentrated sun and even the type of water you use can all cause tissue damage and release cactus sap. When improper cultivation is applied, the plants can experience rot, sunburn and even mechanical damage. Since cacti store water in their stems and pads, any ruptured area will weep fluid. Most cacti will heal from small injuries but their vigor may be greatly reduced.
Diseases
In the mid 1990’s, botanists were concerned about the Saguaro cacti, which were oozing black sap. The cause was widely debated but never fully determined. Pollution, ozone depletion and the removal of the larger “nurse” saguaro plants likely contributed to the giant cacti’s health problems. More common to the home grower, however, are fungal and bacterial diseases that cause a defensive reaction in the plant, resulting in sap leaking from a cactus. The cactus sap may appear to be brown or black, which indicates a bacterial problem. Fungus spores may be soil or air borne. Repotting the cactus every two years can help minimize the chance of bacterial issues and keeping the soil dry to the touch reduces the formation of fungal spores.
Pests
Cacti that are growing outside can fall victim to many pests. Birds can peck at the trunks, rodents chew on the flesh and smaller invaders (such as insects) may wreak havoc on the plants. For instance, the cactus moth is a scourge of cacti. Its larva cause yellowing of the skin and oozing cactus plants. These moths are predominantly found on the Gulf Coast. Other larval forms cause cactus oozing sap during their burrowing. Watch for their presence and combat by manual removal or organic pesticides.
What to Do to Save Oozing Cactus Plants
If the flow of sap is severe enough to damage the health of your plant, you may be able to save it by replanting or propagating the healthy portion. If the top is still vigorous and firm, but the lower part of the plant is where the injury has occurred, you can cut it off. Remove the healthy part and let the cut end dry out for a few days and callus. Then plant it in clean cactus mix. The cutting will root and produce a new, hopefully healthier plant.
There are several reasons for sap leaking from a cactus. It could be an indication of a fungal disease, pest problem, tissue injury or even the result of freezing or excess sun exposure. You will need to become a detective and round up the clues to diagnose the issue by the process of elimination. It’s important to verify that correct care is given, as improper cultivation can also be a cause of a cactus oozing sap. Put your frock coat and bowler on and let’s get investigating!
Cultivation Problems
Oozing cactus plants can be the result of a number of different things. Overwatering, poor drainage, lack of light, too much concentrated sun and even the type of water you use can all cause tissue damage and release cactus sap. When improper cultivation is applied, the plants can experience rot, sunburn and even mechanical damage. Since cacti store water in their stems and pads, any ruptured area will weep fluid. Most cacti will heal from small injuries but their vigor may be greatly reduced.
Diseases
In the mid 1990’s, botanists were concerned about the Saguaro cacti, which were oozing black sap. The cause was widely debated but never fully determined. Pollution, ozone depletion and the removal of the larger “nurse” saguaro plants likely contributed to the giant cacti’s health problems. More common to the home grower, however, are fungal and bacterial diseases that cause a defensive reaction in the plant, resulting in sap leaking from a cactus. The cactus sap may appear to be brown or black, which indicates a bacterial problem. Fungus spores may be soil or air borne. Repotting the cactus every two years can help minimize the chance of bacterial issues and keeping the soil dry to the touch reduces the formation of fungal spores.
Pests
Cacti that are growing outside can fall victim to many pests. Birds can peck at the trunks, rodents chew on the flesh and smaller invaders (such as insects) may wreak havoc on the plants. For instance, the cactus moth is a scourge of cacti. Its larva cause yellowing of the skin and oozing cactus plants. These moths are predominantly found on the Gulf Coast. Other larval forms cause cactus oozing sap during their burrowing. Watch for their presence and combat by manual removal or organic pesticides.
What to Do to Save Oozing Cactus Plants
If the flow of sap is severe enough to damage the health of your plant, you may be able to save it by replanting or propagating the healthy portion. If the top is still vigorous and firm, but the lower part of the plant is where the injury has occurred, you can cut it off. Remove the healthy part and let the cut end dry out for a few days and callus. Then plant it in clean cactus mix. The cutting will root and produce a new, hopefully healthier plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are one of my favorite types of plants to grow inside all year and outside in summer. Unfortunately, the ambient air tends to stay moist during most seasons, a condition which makes cacti unhappy. Cactus potting soil can enhance drainage, increase evaporation and provide the dry conditions that cacti favor. What is cactus mix? This medium promotes optimum health for your cactus and mimics the natural gritty, arid and low nutrient soils they grow in naturally. You can purchase the mixture or learn how to make cactus soil yourself.
Cactus Growing Conditions
The cacti families are succulents which store moisture in their pads, stems and trunks to use during dry and drought periods. They are generally found in desert conditions, although a few are tropical to sub-tropical. The plants favor sunny locations with plenty of heat, areas which have little to no rainfall and harsh soil. The majority of the family will make excellent houseplants due to their minimal needs and forgiving nature. These hardy plants do need water but not on the scale that the average plant requires. They are unique in form and flower with an ease of care that borders on neglect. They prefer a cactus growing mix that is partially sand or grit, some soil and a pinch of peat moss.
What is Cactus Mix?
Cactus potting soil is available in most nurseries and garden centers. It forms a better basis for cactus roots than regular soil and keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture, which can cause rot. The right planting mix for cactus plants has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. Cacti will harvest the moisture they need immediately to store in their bodies and excess water needs to be evaporated or drained to prevent fungal disease and rot. Commercial mixes use the classic elements these plants grow in naturally and add peat, which tends to hold moisture. Once the peat has dried out, it is hard to get it to absorb water again which makes the pot too dry. The glass really is half empty in this case because not enough water will stay in the medium for the plant to uptake. Homemade cactus growing mix can be tailor made for any type of cactus. Just like our personal tastes, one mix is not always right for every variety of cactus and growing region.
How to Make Cactus Soil
It is actually cheaper to make your own mixture. If you live in a very arid climate, you will want the addition of peat in your potted plants but be careful and don’t let it dry out completely. In most other areas and in the home interior, the plants are fine with one part washed sand, one part soil and one part gritty amendment such as pebbles or even pot shards. A very different mix combines five parts potting soil, two parts pumice and one part coir for a mixture that dries out evenly. You may have to tweak the soil recipe depending on where you are using your cactus growing mix and what variety of succulent you have.
How to Know if You Need Different Soil
Sadly, by the time you notice a decline in the health of your cactus and think of repotting it in a different planting mix for cactus plants, it may be too late. A better option is to choose right the first time. Determine where your cactus naturally occurs. If it is a desert species, use the simplest blend of clean fine sand, grit and soil. If you have a tropical species, add peat. Plants such as Euphorbia are remarkably adaptable to almost any soil and can even thrive in dry potting soil. Give the plants a hand by choosing unglazed containers that evaporate excess moisture and watering deeply only when the soil is completely dry but not crusty.
Cactus Growing Conditions
The cacti families are succulents which store moisture in their pads, stems and trunks to use during dry and drought periods. They are generally found in desert conditions, although a few are tropical to sub-tropical. The plants favor sunny locations with plenty of heat, areas which have little to no rainfall and harsh soil. The majority of the family will make excellent houseplants due to their minimal needs and forgiving nature. These hardy plants do need water but not on the scale that the average plant requires. They are unique in form and flower with an ease of care that borders on neglect. They prefer a cactus growing mix that is partially sand or grit, some soil and a pinch of peat moss.
What is Cactus Mix?
Cactus potting soil is available in most nurseries and garden centers. It forms a better basis for cactus roots than regular soil and keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture, which can cause rot. The right planting mix for cactus plants has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. Cacti will harvest the moisture they need immediately to store in their bodies and excess water needs to be evaporated or drained to prevent fungal disease and rot. Commercial mixes use the classic elements these plants grow in naturally and add peat, which tends to hold moisture. Once the peat has dried out, it is hard to get it to absorb water again which makes the pot too dry. The glass really is half empty in this case because not enough water will stay in the medium for the plant to uptake. Homemade cactus growing mix can be tailor made for any type of cactus. Just like our personal tastes, one mix is not always right for every variety of cactus and growing region.
How to Make Cactus Soil
It is actually cheaper to make your own mixture. If you live in a very arid climate, you will want the addition of peat in your potted plants but be careful and don’t let it dry out completely. In most other areas and in the home interior, the plants are fine with one part washed sand, one part soil and one part gritty amendment such as pebbles or even pot shards. A very different mix combines five parts potting soil, two parts pumice and one part coir for a mixture that dries out evenly. You may have to tweak the soil recipe depending on where you are using your cactus growing mix and what variety of succulent you have.
How to Know if You Need Different Soil
Sadly, by the time you notice a decline in the health of your cactus and think of repotting it in a different planting mix for cactus plants, it may be too late. A better option is to choose right the first time. Determine where your cactus naturally occurs. If it is a desert species, use the simplest blend of clean fine sand, grit and soil. If you have a tropical species, add peat. Plants such as Euphorbia are remarkably adaptable to almost any soil and can even thrive in dry potting soil. Give the plants a hand by choosing unglazed containers that evaporate excess moisture and watering deeply only when the soil is completely dry but not crusty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Off with your head! Cactus propagation is commonly done by grafting, a process where a cut piece of one species is grown onto a wounded piece of another. Grafting cactus plants is a straightforward method of propagation which even a novice gardener can try. Different species work better with different methods but a brief cactus grafting guide follows with basic instructions on how to graft a cactus. Cacti comprise some of my favorite plants due to their uniqueness of form and unusual characteristics. Propagation is through grafting, stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, seed or offsets. Growing cactus from seed is a long process, as germination may be unreliable and growth is at a snail’s pace. Broadly, cacti that do not produce offsets can be propagated by grafting as long as there is a compatible rootstock. The grafted part is called a scion and the base or rooted part is the rootstock.
Cactus Grafting Guide
Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cactus plants is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants. Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus for Grafting
The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or undatus Cereus peruvianus Trichocereus spachianus Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cactus for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft Cactus
Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil. Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one. Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
Cactus Grafting Guide
Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cactus plants is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants. Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus for Grafting
The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or undatus Cereus peruvianus Trichocereus spachianus Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cactus for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft Cactus
Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil. Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one. Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Plants astound and amaze with the wide variety of adaptations they make to survive in diverse and challenging environments. Every species performs mini miracles of survival by virtue of their special modifications and characteristics. Xerophyte desert plants are a perfect example of adapted plants. They have altered their physiology over time to thrive in dry, arid regions. Gardening with xerophytes allows you to exploit their special characteristics and utilize them in dry or drought prone parts of your landscape.
What are Xerophytes?
Plant classifications such as mesophyte, hydrophyte or xerophytes hint at the species ability to adapt and survive. What are xerophytes? These are a group of plants that are uniquely suited to areas with limited rainfall. Adaptations of xerophyte garden plants vary but may include lack of leaves, waxy skin, storage organs or stems, shallow spreading roots or even spines. Cacti are great models of the xerophytic class. Other types of xerophytic plants include succulents like aloe, euphorbia, some grasses and even some perennial bulbs. These plants have the ability to store water, close the stoma in the leaves to conserve moisture, reduce transpiration and wide root bases or deep taproots.
About Xerophyte Desert Plants
While hydrophytes hang out near water and mesophytes on land with plenty of organic matter and moisture, xerophytes live where annual rainfalls are measured in just a few inches. Xerophyte desert plants, such as cacti, possess adaptations that allow them to not only survive in arid zones, but to thrive. Their low moisture and nutrient needs, ability to withstand blazing sun and cool nights makes xerophytic garden design a low maintenance way of conserving resources in the landscape. Xerophyte desert plants are suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 8 to 13. However, these amazingly adaptive plants can occasionally grow in lower zones with some protection from cold and excess moisture.
Xerophytic Garden Design
Xerophytic adaptations of plants make for hardy resource conserving garden choices. Even if you don’t live in a desert, many types of xerophytic plants can work in different garden situations. The area under the eaves, for instance, tends to receive less rainfall and will be sunny and hot on the south and west sides. Rocky or gravely hills with sunny exposure tend to be low on moisture and nutrients which run off in the rainy season. These suggestions are just a couple of the areas where xerophytic garden design could be fun and helpful in your landscape. Check the area for drainage and amend with generous amounts of sand or other gritty material, if necessary. Choose plants suited for your zone. Remember that these plants often have a deep taproot, so choose locations wisely as they can be difficult to move once established. Cool, rainy climates can also use xerophytes in the garden as potted patio plants. Move them indoors or to a sheltered area in winter.
What are Xerophytes?
Plant classifications such as mesophyte, hydrophyte or xerophytes hint at the species ability to adapt and survive. What are xerophytes? These are a group of plants that are uniquely suited to areas with limited rainfall. Adaptations of xerophyte garden plants vary but may include lack of leaves, waxy skin, storage organs or stems, shallow spreading roots or even spines. Cacti are great models of the xerophytic class. Other types of xerophytic plants include succulents like aloe, euphorbia, some grasses and even some perennial bulbs. These plants have the ability to store water, close the stoma in the leaves to conserve moisture, reduce transpiration and wide root bases or deep taproots.
About Xerophyte Desert Plants
While hydrophytes hang out near water and mesophytes on land with plenty of organic matter and moisture, xerophytes live where annual rainfalls are measured in just a few inches. Xerophyte desert plants, such as cacti, possess adaptations that allow them to not only survive in arid zones, but to thrive. Their low moisture and nutrient needs, ability to withstand blazing sun and cool nights makes xerophytic garden design a low maintenance way of conserving resources in the landscape. Xerophyte desert plants are suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 8 to 13. However, these amazingly adaptive plants can occasionally grow in lower zones with some protection from cold and excess moisture.
Xerophytic Garden Design
Xerophytic adaptations of plants make for hardy resource conserving garden choices. Even if you don’t live in a desert, many types of xerophytic plants can work in different garden situations. The area under the eaves, for instance, tends to receive less rainfall and will be sunny and hot on the south and west sides. Rocky or gravely hills with sunny exposure tend to be low on moisture and nutrients which run off in the rainy season. These suggestions are just a couple of the areas where xerophytic garden design could be fun and helpful in your landscape. Check the area for drainage and amend with generous amounts of sand or other gritty material, if necessary. Choose plants suited for your zone. Remember that these plants often have a deep taproot, so choose locations wisely as they can be difficult to move once established. Cool, rainy climates can also use xerophytes in the garden as potted patio plants. Move them indoors or to a sheltered area in winter.
2
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are low maintenance plants for the home with a ton of character and a vast array of form. They are relatively maintenance free except for infrequent watering and annual food. Many gardeners ask “should I repot my cactus?” They don’t need repotting often, but once in a while for soil replenishment and when the plant needs a larger pot. When to repot a cactus plant depends upon the plant and its condition. Read on for tips on how to repot a cactus and do it without spending the rest of the day picking spines out of your hands.
Tools for Cactus Repotting
Cacti are succulents and tend to favor dry, hot conditions. They store moisture in their pads and use their spines as both defense and to provide some protection from burning hot sun rays. Cactus grown in the home can almost be ignored but they do require light, warmth, water and repotting to refresh the soil. Cactus repotting requires a special soil mix, well-draining container and some tactical protection. The first issue to deal with is the handling of a spiny plant. There are a couple of ways to go about this. You can wrap the plant in several layers of newspaper and secure lightly with tape or twine. You can also use a pair of leather gloves or, for smaller plants, just grab your oven mitts. One of the safest repotting tips is to use kitchen tongs. You will also need a cactus mix which you may purchase or make. A good combination is equal parts sand or bird gravel, potting soil and leaf mold. Your container must have excellent drainage holes and preferably be unglazed so the clay can direct away and evaporate any excess moisture.
When to Repot a Cactus Plant
You will know when to repot a cactus plant if you see roots coming out the bottom of the container. This indicates it is overly root bound. Most cacti find small spaces very cozy and can stay in their container for years. The sight of roots will let you know it has expanded too much and will need repotting. The next size up container will be appropriate since they like it snug. A general rule of thumb is to repot every 2 to 4 years. If you fertilize annually, the latter is more appropriate but if you don’t fertilize, repot in two years to replenish soil fertility. The best time is during active growth in January or February.
How to Repot a Cactus
Once you have answered the question, “should I repot my cactus,” it is time to gather your tools and trade in the old soil or container. Not every cactus needs a new container, but fresh soil is a good idea. Only pot bound plants need a larger pot. Wrap, glove or tong the plant gently out of its pot. They usually come out readily if the soil is dry but you may have to run a trowel around the edges to loosen the soil. Shake off the old soil and plant the cactus at the same depth it was growing in the old soil. Fill in around the roots with your medium and place it in a sunny southeast or east window. Among important repotting cactus tips is to not water the plant yet, as it is adjusting to being handled and new soil conditions. After a few weeks, you can water the plant and allow it to dry out before watering again.
Tools for Cactus Repotting
Cacti are succulents and tend to favor dry, hot conditions. They store moisture in their pads and use their spines as both defense and to provide some protection from burning hot sun rays. Cactus grown in the home can almost be ignored but they do require light, warmth, water and repotting to refresh the soil. Cactus repotting requires a special soil mix, well-draining container and some tactical protection. The first issue to deal with is the handling of a spiny plant. There are a couple of ways to go about this. You can wrap the plant in several layers of newspaper and secure lightly with tape or twine. You can also use a pair of leather gloves or, for smaller plants, just grab your oven mitts. One of the safest repotting tips is to use kitchen tongs. You will also need a cactus mix which you may purchase or make. A good combination is equal parts sand or bird gravel, potting soil and leaf mold. Your container must have excellent drainage holes and preferably be unglazed so the clay can direct away and evaporate any excess moisture.
When to Repot a Cactus Plant
You will know when to repot a cactus plant if you see roots coming out the bottom of the container. This indicates it is overly root bound. Most cacti find small spaces very cozy and can stay in their container for years. The sight of roots will let you know it has expanded too much and will need repotting. The next size up container will be appropriate since they like it snug. A general rule of thumb is to repot every 2 to 4 years. If you fertilize annually, the latter is more appropriate but if you don’t fertilize, repot in two years to replenish soil fertility. The best time is during active growth in January or February.
How to Repot a Cactus
Once you have answered the question, “should I repot my cactus,” it is time to gather your tools and trade in the old soil or container. Not every cactus needs a new container, but fresh soil is a good idea. Only pot bound plants need a larger pot. Wrap, glove or tong the plant gently out of its pot. They usually come out readily if the soil is dry but you may have to run a trowel around the edges to loosen the soil. Shake off the old soil and plant the cactus at the same depth it was growing in the old soil. Fill in around the roots with your medium and place it in a sunny southeast or east window. Among important repotting cactus tips is to not water the plant yet, as it is adjusting to being handled and new soil conditions. After a few weeks, you can water the plant and allow it to dry out before watering again.
2
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cactus are low maintenance plants that generally thrive with neglect and do not require a lot of pampering. It might surprise you to find that cacti can and do need to be pruned now and then. Cactus pruning is not always necessary and when to prune a cactus plant will depend upon why you are trimming it. A few notes on how to cut back a cactus for purposes of propagation, rejuvenation and structural integrity will send you on the road to cleaning up your succulents properly.
Can You Trim a Cactus?
New succulent growers may ask, “Can you trim a cactus?” Most cacti really don’t need any form of shaping unless they have a great huge limb that looks ready to tip the plant over. The major reasons for trimming cactus are to remove parts to root for new plants, remove offsets or pups for the same reason, reinvigorate a plant that has gotten too tall or too leggy, and to take off damaged material.
Cacti come in a wide range of forms. Cactus pruning can enhance these forms while preventing overcrowding, which can increase the chance of disease, mildew and unhealthy plants. The Opuntias, Crassula and Senecios have pads that serve as leaves and these are easy to remove and can be used to start new plants. Columnar plants, like totem pole cacti or organ pipe cacti, may simply get too tall or spindly and require a judicious beheading to force branching or simply thicker stems. Still other succulents in the family will produce flower stalks which are persistent and become ugly when dead. Removal of these will restore the beauty of the plant. Trimming cactus has a variety of purposes, but the good news is that you can use many of the parts you remove to start new plants.
How to Cut Back a Cactus
The “how” of cutting back a cactus answers like a bad joke. The simple answer is, very carefully. Most cacti have some type of spine or prickle which can be painful to encounter. Use thick gloves and wear long pants and sleeves for the bigger garden specimens. The tool will depend upon the size of the plant, but most will succumb to pruners. Only the largest will require a saw. As with all pruning, make sure the tool used is sharp and clean to avoid injuring the plant and decrease the chance of disease. Remove limbs at the branch point but be careful not to cut into the main stem. Pads or leaves may just snap off or you can use pruners to remove them. For a big job like cutting back a columnar specimen, use a saw and remove the main trunk at the point at which you would like to see branching or at the height you require the plant. Try to remove the stem at a growth point. Plants like agave will need the old leaves removed to preserve the appearance. Cut them away at the base of the plant with shears.
What to Do With Pruned Off Parts
Now for the fun part. Almost all the material you remove is salvageable except for diseased or dead stems and leaves. Pads will root if laid on top of soil and develop into a new plant of the same species. Cut stems and trunks should be allowed to callus at the end for several days and then can be planted to create new cactus. Any offsets or pups that you cut away from the base of a specimen are new plants in their own right and should be potted up immediately. Dead flower stalks and leaves are compost, but some varieties of cactus produce leaves on the flower stem which can be treated the same way as the pads of other species. Most cactus parts will start rooting within a month. Once you restore your initial cactus to its glory, you will have the pleasure of making more of the spectacular plant and can increase your collection or give them away to family and friends.
Can You Trim a Cactus?
New succulent growers may ask, “Can you trim a cactus?” Most cacti really don’t need any form of shaping unless they have a great huge limb that looks ready to tip the plant over. The major reasons for trimming cactus are to remove parts to root for new plants, remove offsets or pups for the same reason, reinvigorate a plant that has gotten too tall or too leggy, and to take off damaged material.
Cacti come in a wide range of forms. Cactus pruning can enhance these forms while preventing overcrowding, which can increase the chance of disease, mildew and unhealthy plants. The Opuntias, Crassula and Senecios have pads that serve as leaves and these are easy to remove and can be used to start new plants. Columnar plants, like totem pole cacti or organ pipe cacti, may simply get too tall or spindly and require a judicious beheading to force branching or simply thicker stems. Still other succulents in the family will produce flower stalks which are persistent and become ugly when dead. Removal of these will restore the beauty of the plant. Trimming cactus has a variety of purposes, but the good news is that you can use many of the parts you remove to start new plants.
How to Cut Back a Cactus
The “how” of cutting back a cactus answers like a bad joke. The simple answer is, very carefully. Most cacti have some type of spine or prickle which can be painful to encounter. Use thick gloves and wear long pants and sleeves for the bigger garden specimens. The tool will depend upon the size of the plant, but most will succumb to pruners. Only the largest will require a saw. As with all pruning, make sure the tool used is sharp and clean to avoid injuring the plant and decrease the chance of disease. Remove limbs at the branch point but be careful not to cut into the main stem. Pads or leaves may just snap off or you can use pruners to remove them. For a big job like cutting back a columnar specimen, use a saw and remove the main trunk at the point at which you would like to see branching or at the height you require the plant. Try to remove the stem at a growth point. Plants like agave will need the old leaves removed to preserve the appearance. Cut them away at the base of the plant with shears.
What to Do With Pruned Off Parts
Now for the fun part. Almost all the material you remove is salvageable except for diseased or dead stems and leaves. Pads will root if laid on top of soil and develop into a new plant of the same species. Cut stems and trunks should be allowed to callus at the end for several days and then can be planted to create new cactus. Any offsets or pups that you cut away from the base of a specimen are new plants in their own right and should be potted up immediately. Dead flower stalks and leaves are compost, but some varieties of cactus produce leaves on the flower stem which can be treated the same way as the pads of other species. Most cactus parts will start rooting within a month. Once you restore your initial cactus to its glory, you will have the pleasure of making more of the spectacular plant and can increase your collection or give them away to family and friends.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are amazing plants with unique adaptations that allow them to thrive in inhospitable terrain. One of these adaptations is spines. Most spines are large thorny looking things but some are fine and hairy, developing in clusters and may ring around the large spikes. These are called glochid spines. Plants with glochids are in the Opuntia family, as other cacti do not bear glochids.
What are Glochids?
Cactus glochids are not a feature with which to fool. Glochids in skin are irritating, difficult to remove and stay in for a long time. What are glochids? They are fine, hairy spines tipped with barbs. That makes them hard to get out of skin and the irritation persists for days without treatment. It’s wise to wear gloves and long sleeves if you are handling any of the plants in the Opuntia family. Failure to do so may result in some terrible itching and burning.
Glochids occur in tufts, often around a main spine. They are deciduous and have backwards pulling barbs that resist removal. Glochid spines dislodge with even the gentlest touch. They are so fine and tiny that removal is almost impossible. You can barely see them but you can sure feel glochids in skin. The interesting thing about plants with glochids is that they form to help conserve moisture. They are actually modified leaves, unlike thorns, which are modified branches. Leaves like these prevent the plant from losing too much moisture in the form of evaporation. They are also a formidable defense strategy.
Plants with Glochids
The only group of plants that produce ghlochids are the Opuntioideae. The fine hair-like spines are clustered in the areoles of cacti in that family. Prickly pear or cholla are two species with glochids. In fact, the picking of the fruit from prickly pear is always done in long pants and sleeves, and is suspended when there is wind to prevent the fine spikes from drifting onto workers and only when the fruit has been wetted. Many of the other cactus plants in the family will have ghlochids. They may be the only spine or the glochids may be surrounding a larger spine. Even fruit is subject to the irritating tufts.
How to Remove Glochids
Glochids that get stuck in the skin can produce a stinging, burning, itching feeling combined with dermatitis reactions. These may be blisters, pustules, or welts that are overly sensitive and painful. The condition can persist for up to 9 months if the glochids are not removed. Cactus glochids are so small, tweezers are of little assistance. That said, tweezers are the most effective if you pair them with a magnifying glass and plenty of patience. Duct tape applied on the area and pulled off also has some effectiveness. Additionally, you can try spreading melted wax or Elmer’s glue on the affected area. Wait until the wax or glue sets and then peel off. This can remove up to 45 % of the spines. It is important to get the spines out or the condition will persist and seeking professional medical help is necessary.
What are Glochids?
Cactus glochids are not a feature with which to fool. Glochids in skin are irritating, difficult to remove and stay in for a long time. What are glochids? They are fine, hairy spines tipped with barbs. That makes them hard to get out of skin and the irritation persists for days without treatment. It’s wise to wear gloves and long sleeves if you are handling any of the plants in the Opuntia family. Failure to do so may result in some terrible itching and burning.
Glochids occur in tufts, often around a main spine. They are deciduous and have backwards pulling barbs that resist removal. Glochid spines dislodge with even the gentlest touch. They are so fine and tiny that removal is almost impossible. You can barely see them but you can sure feel glochids in skin. The interesting thing about plants with glochids is that they form to help conserve moisture. They are actually modified leaves, unlike thorns, which are modified branches. Leaves like these prevent the plant from losing too much moisture in the form of evaporation. They are also a formidable defense strategy.
Plants with Glochids
The only group of plants that produce ghlochids are the Opuntioideae. The fine hair-like spines are clustered in the areoles of cacti in that family. Prickly pear or cholla are two species with glochids. In fact, the picking of the fruit from prickly pear is always done in long pants and sleeves, and is suspended when there is wind to prevent the fine spikes from drifting onto workers and only when the fruit has been wetted. Many of the other cactus plants in the family will have ghlochids. They may be the only spine or the glochids may be surrounding a larger spine. Even fruit is subject to the irritating tufts.
How to Remove Glochids
Glochids that get stuck in the skin can produce a stinging, burning, itching feeling combined with dermatitis reactions. These may be blisters, pustules, or welts that are overly sensitive and painful. The condition can persist for up to 9 months if the glochids are not removed. Cactus glochids are so small, tweezers are of little assistance. That said, tweezers are the most effective if you pair them with a magnifying glass and plenty of patience. Duct tape applied on the area and pulled off also has some effectiveness. Additionally, you can try spreading melted wax or Elmer’s glue on the affected area. Wait until the wax or glue sets and then peel off. This can remove up to 45 % of the spines. It is important to get the spines out or the condition will persist and seeking professional medical help is necessary.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Succulents are a group of plants with one of the most diverse forms, colors and blooms. These easy to care for indoor and outdoor specimens are a dream for the busy gardener. What is a succulent plant? Succulents are specialized plants that store water in their leaves and/or stems. They are remarkably adapted to harsh climates where water is scarce or comes sporadically. Merriam Webster defines a succulent as “full of juice” or “juicy.” Read on for some fun succulent plant info so you can get started collecting the myriad of varieties available in this special class of plant.
What is a Succulent?
Oddly, some botanists and horticultural experts differ on which plants are technically succulents. Their appearance differs from species to species, but one common characteristic is swollen leaves, pads or stems. The exact classification of a certain plant will have to go to the experts, but whatever the case, all types of succulents or those that appear to be succulents are pleasing to the eye, minimal regarding care and produce delightful little surprises during their life cycle. Again, referring to the dictionary, a succulent plant has thick stems or leaves that store water. This unique adaptation allows the plant to survive in low moisture regions of the world. Succulents are often thought to be native only to arid regions, such as deserts, but they also belong in forest settings, high alpine regions, coasts and dry tropical areas. There are over 50 families that are classed as succulents. There are both xerophytic succulents that thrive in dry areas and halophytic types which live in boggy saline soil. The xerophytic succulents are the best known form and widely available as house or garden plants.
Succulent Plant Info
While most types of succulents require warm temperatures, moderately dry, well-draining soil and sunlight, some can withstand cooler or even downright cold temperatures. These hardy succulents are able to withstand brief freezes and fend off frost damage. Occasionally, cold snaps will force a plant into dormancy, but well established hardy types will spring back when warm weather returns. It is important to know if your succulent is a tropical or hardy variety in instances where it is planted outdoors. One of the main succulent plant characteristics is thick, fleshy leaves or pads but there are also non-succulent leaved varieties. This is why botanists and other experts disagree on some plant’s classification. The succulent vs. cactus question is often debated even among professional growers. This is because cacti produce the fleshy leaves but lack other characteristics familiar to the family. In actuality, a cactus is indeed a succulent due to the trait of harnessing and storing water shared by all species in the group. That said, a succulent is not considered a cactus.
Succulent Plant Types
If swollen leaves and stems are the main succulent plant characteristics visible, there are also other qualities which delineate the group. Shallow roots are one adaptation shared among the succulents. A few varieties have deeper tap roots but the majority has wide, surface root zones that allow maximum moisture capture when infrequent rains occur. Some of the succulent plant types commonly available are: Agaves Yucca Aloe Cacti Bromeliad Sedum Sempervivum Echeveria Various euphorbias Some types of orchids It is important to note their hardiness range, but many of these can thrive in the garden. Smaller succulents make varied and fascinating container displays for the indoors. Almost all species need at least 8 hours of light, warm daytime temperatures, consistent water during the growing season and well-drained soil.
What is a Succulent?
Oddly, some botanists and horticultural experts differ on which plants are technically succulents. Their appearance differs from species to species, but one common characteristic is swollen leaves, pads or stems. The exact classification of a certain plant will have to go to the experts, but whatever the case, all types of succulents or those that appear to be succulents are pleasing to the eye, minimal regarding care and produce delightful little surprises during their life cycle. Again, referring to the dictionary, a succulent plant has thick stems or leaves that store water. This unique adaptation allows the plant to survive in low moisture regions of the world. Succulents are often thought to be native only to arid regions, such as deserts, but they also belong in forest settings, high alpine regions, coasts and dry tropical areas. There are over 50 families that are classed as succulents. There are both xerophytic succulents that thrive in dry areas and halophytic types which live in boggy saline soil. The xerophytic succulents are the best known form and widely available as house or garden plants.
Succulent Plant Info
While most types of succulents require warm temperatures, moderately dry, well-draining soil and sunlight, some can withstand cooler or even downright cold temperatures. These hardy succulents are able to withstand brief freezes and fend off frost damage. Occasionally, cold snaps will force a plant into dormancy, but well established hardy types will spring back when warm weather returns. It is important to know if your succulent is a tropical or hardy variety in instances where it is planted outdoors. One of the main succulent plant characteristics is thick, fleshy leaves or pads but there are also non-succulent leaved varieties. This is why botanists and other experts disagree on some plant’s classification. The succulent vs. cactus question is often debated even among professional growers. This is because cacti produce the fleshy leaves but lack other characteristics familiar to the family. In actuality, a cactus is indeed a succulent due to the trait of harnessing and storing water shared by all species in the group. That said, a succulent is not considered a cactus.
Succulent Plant Types
If swollen leaves and stems are the main succulent plant characteristics visible, there are also other qualities which delineate the group. Shallow roots are one adaptation shared among the succulents. A few varieties have deeper tap roots but the majority has wide, surface root zones that allow maximum moisture capture when infrequent rains occur. Some of the succulent plant types commonly available are: Agaves Yucca Aloe Cacti Bromeliad Sedum Sempervivum Echeveria Various euphorbias Some types of orchids It is important to note their hardiness range, but many of these can thrive in the garden. Smaller succulents make varied and fascinating container displays for the indoors. Almost all species need at least 8 hours of light, warm daytime temperatures, consistent water during the growing season and well-drained soil.
3
3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Wondering how to fertilize a cactus plant can present a bit of a dilemma, because the first question that comes to mind is “Does a cactus need fertilizer, really?” Keep reading to find out and learn more about fertilizing cactus plants.
Does a Cactus Need Fertilizer?
The classic perception of the perfect environment for cacti is a harsh, dry desert with two extremes: periods of no rainfall whatsoever or sudden deluges that the plant must absorb, store and use throughout the next dry spell.
It’s important to remember that whether they are outside in the garden exposed to seasonal extremes or in a bright sunny spot in the house, fertilizing cactus plants can keep them happily growing no matter the season. Just like with any other garden or houseplant, fertilizing cactus plants will help them adapt, actively grow and even multiply if that’s one of their characteristics. Cacti fertilizer requirements are pretty simple. Any good houseplant food (diluted to half) that’s higher in phosphorus than nitrogen is a good choice. A 5-10-5 solution can work well. Now that you know that they really do need fertilizer, it’s also important to know when to feed cactus plants.
How Do I Know When To Feed Cactus Plants?
Despite the fact that cacti can survive (and thrive) in some of the harshest conditions on earth, most of them prefer multiple small feedings instead of one gigantic flood. Cactus plants really don’t require a ton of water or fertilizer (they do require a lot of bright light). At a minimum, fertilizing cactus plants once a year is a good rule of thumb, but if you’re really organized and can set up a schedule, feeding them 2-3 times per year in the spring, summer and fall will easily satisfy your cacti fertilizer requirements. Cactus plants need fertilizer during their active growing periods more than any other time. Many gardeners use a time-release mechanism that will feed the plant for a longer period of time, such as 3 or 6 months in order to be sure not to miss their peak growing time. Finally, remember one of the “golden rules of growing” as you plan to care for your cactus plants: never overfeed! Overfeeding is as dangerous to your cactus plants as overwatering is to any plant. Being careful not to overfeed is just as important as knowing when to feed cactus plants and how to fertilize a cactus, and gives your plants the best chance of staying healthy and happy.
Does a Cactus Need Fertilizer?
The classic perception of the perfect environment for cacti is a harsh, dry desert with two extremes: periods of no rainfall whatsoever or sudden deluges that the plant must absorb, store and use throughout the next dry spell.
It’s important to remember that whether they are outside in the garden exposed to seasonal extremes or in a bright sunny spot in the house, fertilizing cactus plants can keep them happily growing no matter the season. Just like with any other garden or houseplant, fertilizing cactus plants will help them adapt, actively grow and even multiply if that’s one of their characteristics. Cacti fertilizer requirements are pretty simple. Any good houseplant food (diluted to half) that’s higher in phosphorus than nitrogen is a good choice. A 5-10-5 solution can work well. Now that you know that they really do need fertilizer, it’s also important to know when to feed cactus plants.
How Do I Know When To Feed Cactus Plants?
Despite the fact that cacti can survive (and thrive) in some of the harshest conditions on earth, most of them prefer multiple small feedings instead of one gigantic flood. Cactus plants really don’t require a ton of water or fertilizer (they do require a lot of bright light). At a minimum, fertilizing cactus plants once a year is a good rule of thumb, but if you’re really organized and can set up a schedule, feeding them 2-3 times per year in the spring, summer and fall will easily satisfy your cacti fertilizer requirements. Cactus plants need fertilizer during their active growing periods more than any other time. Many gardeners use a time-release mechanism that will feed the plant for a longer period of time, such as 3 or 6 months in order to be sure not to miss their peak growing time. Finally, remember one of the “golden rules of growing” as you plan to care for your cactus plants: never overfeed! Overfeeding is as dangerous to your cactus plants as overwatering is to any plant. Being careful not to overfeed is just as important as knowing when to feed cactus plants and how to fertilize a cactus, and gives your plants the best chance of staying healthy and happy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
When you think cactus, you generally think arid, desert plant. This is not always the case, as cacti range from many different environments. While it is true the plants in this group usually prefer soil on the dry side, they still require moisture, especially during the growing season. How often do you need to water a cactus plant? There is more to how to water a cactus than the timing. You also need the correct soil porosity, container drainage, site conditions and time of year.
How Often Do You Need to Water Cactus?
Cactus plants are actually quite juicy. Think of an aloe when you cut it open and the mucilaginous goo that is inside the leaves. Cactus plants actually hoard moisture in their plant cells so they have some water during extremely dry, drought-like conditions. They are remarkably tolerant to water neglect but certain signs in the leaves, pads or stems will indicate that the plant is becoming stressed due to a lack in moisture. Recognizing these signs, along with some education on your plant’s native region and climate, can help indicate the best time for watering cactus plants.
There are many factors influencing the timing of watering cactus plants. Are the plants in ground or in containers? What is the lighting exposure, air temperature, soil type, size of plant, wind or draft exposure and time of year? No matter the time of year, one constant among any type of cactus is its inability to tolerate standing water. To this end, soil type is very important. Loose, well-draining soil is essential to cactus health. If the soil is porous enough, occasionally overwatering is not much of an issue, as excess will easily drain away. Heavy compact, clay soils or those with heavy amounts of organic material tend to capture water and can cause rot in cactus roots and lower stems. Plants in full sun tend to dry out more than those in lower light conditions, as do windy or drafty sites.
Cactus Plant Watering
Cactus plants tend to do the majority of their growth in the warmer seasons. This is when they need supplemental moisture to fuel that growth. Spring and summer plants need to be irrigated enough to avoid wrinkled leaves, pads and stems and promote new cell production, flowering and fruiting if applicable. In late fall and winter, plants are in their resting state and need just enough water to get them through the season. During this period, potting soil or in-ground soil should be allowed to dry out between watering. However, plants located just by the hot, dry air of a furnace or in full sun will dry more quickly than those in other locations and may require a bit more moisture to withstand those drying conditions. In spring and summer, plants need more moisture and average cactus plant watering should take place once per week or more frequently. This is why well-draining soil is important because any extra moisture can move away from sensitive roots.
How to Water a Cactus
There are several schools of thought on how to water these plants, but one fact is clear. Don’t mist desert cactus. They are not native to regions where surface moisture and humidity is prevalent. Instead, they reach deep into soil to harvest moisture left over from the rainy season. Jungle cacti are a bit different and thrive with some misting. An example of this type of cactus is the Christmas cactus. In general, most cultivated cacti will be desert denizens, so watering overhead should be avoided. Potted plants can be set in a saucer of water to intake moisture through the roots. Remove the plant from the saucer after the soil is saturated halfway up. Another method of cactus plant watering is to simply apply it to the surface of the soil. In this case, several factors influence the amount of water such as heat, direct light and planting situation. In general, a slow, deep watering is sufficient once per week. This may translate to soaking a container until moisture runs out the drainage holes or using a garden hose set low to steadily drip water to the root zone of the plant for several hours. Just remember, be sensible when watering cactus plants and find out what type you have and from whence they hail. This can make decisions on plant irrigation much easier.
How Often Do You Need to Water Cactus?
Cactus plants are actually quite juicy. Think of an aloe when you cut it open and the mucilaginous goo that is inside the leaves. Cactus plants actually hoard moisture in their plant cells so they have some water during extremely dry, drought-like conditions. They are remarkably tolerant to water neglect but certain signs in the leaves, pads or stems will indicate that the plant is becoming stressed due to a lack in moisture. Recognizing these signs, along with some education on your plant’s native region and climate, can help indicate the best time for watering cactus plants.
There are many factors influencing the timing of watering cactus plants. Are the plants in ground or in containers? What is the lighting exposure, air temperature, soil type, size of plant, wind or draft exposure and time of year? No matter the time of year, one constant among any type of cactus is its inability to tolerate standing water. To this end, soil type is very important. Loose, well-draining soil is essential to cactus health. If the soil is porous enough, occasionally overwatering is not much of an issue, as excess will easily drain away. Heavy compact, clay soils or those with heavy amounts of organic material tend to capture water and can cause rot in cactus roots and lower stems. Plants in full sun tend to dry out more than those in lower light conditions, as do windy or drafty sites.
Cactus Plant Watering
Cactus plants tend to do the majority of their growth in the warmer seasons. This is when they need supplemental moisture to fuel that growth. Spring and summer plants need to be irrigated enough to avoid wrinkled leaves, pads and stems and promote new cell production, flowering and fruiting if applicable. In late fall and winter, plants are in their resting state and need just enough water to get them through the season. During this period, potting soil or in-ground soil should be allowed to dry out between watering. However, plants located just by the hot, dry air of a furnace or in full sun will dry more quickly than those in other locations and may require a bit more moisture to withstand those drying conditions. In spring and summer, plants need more moisture and average cactus plant watering should take place once per week or more frequently. This is why well-draining soil is important because any extra moisture can move away from sensitive roots.
How to Water a Cactus
There are several schools of thought on how to water these plants, but one fact is clear. Don’t mist desert cactus. They are not native to regions where surface moisture and humidity is prevalent. Instead, they reach deep into soil to harvest moisture left over from the rainy season. Jungle cacti are a bit different and thrive with some misting. An example of this type of cactus is the Christmas cactus. In general, most cultivated cacti will be desert denizens, so watering overhead should be avoided. Potted plants can be set in a saucer of water to intake moisture through the roots. Remove the plant from the saucer after the soil is saturated halfway up. Another method of cactus plant watering is to simply apply it to the surface of the soil. In this case, several factors influence the amount of water such as heat, direct light and planting situation. In general, a slow, deep watering is sufficient once per week. This may translate to soaking a container until moisture runs out the drainage holes or using a garden hose set low to steadily drip water to the root zone of the plant for several hours. Just remember, be sensible when watering cactus plants and find out what type you have and from whence they hail. This can make decisions on plant irrigation much easier.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Occasionally, mature cactus plants have to be moved. Moving cacti in the landscape, especially large specimens, can be a challenge. This process poses more danger to you than the plant due to the spines, thorns and other dangerous armor most of these plants possess. Transplanting a cactus can be done at any time of the year, but the best time is in cool weather. Some tips on how to transplant a cactus without harm to you or the plant will follow.
Before Moving Cacti in the Landscape
Mature cactus plants can get quite large and require professional assistance to minimize plant damage. If you are determined to take on the process yourself, consider site preparation, have several extra hands available and prepare the plant carefully to avoid harming pads, limbs and causing yourself and your helpers any pain. Only transplant healthy specimens that will have the best chance of re-establishing. A word of caution: wild cactus cannot be harvested legally in most areas, so this information applies to cultivated cacti in the landscape only. Preparation is crucial when moving a cactus plant. Mark the plant so you can situate it in the same orientation in which it is growing. Plants with large pads should be swaddled in an old blanket or something that will cushion the limbs while giving you protection from the spines.
How to Transplant a Cactus
Begin by digging a trench around the plant 1 to 2 feet away and about 18 inches deep. Then start prying around the plant gently. Cactus roots are usually near the surface but are delicate, so be careful during this process. Once you have excavated the roots, use the shovel to pry out the plant. Wrap a large garden hose around the plant and lift it out of the hole. If the plant is large, you may need more than two people, or even a vehicle for pulling. Successfully transplanting a cactus requires careful new site preparation. The cactus roots should air dry for a few days before installing the plant in its new location. During this time, assess the soil and amend as needed. In sandy locations, add 25% compost. In areas with rich or clay soil, add pumice to help assist with drainage. Dig a shallow, wide hole that is the same size as the original planting site. Orient the cactus at the same exposure it experienced in the old planting location. This is one of the more crucial details because it will prevent or minimize sunburn. Carefully lift the plant and settle it in the correct orientation in the prepared hole. Backfill around the roots and tamp down. Water the plant deeply to settle the soil. Some special care is required for several months after moving a cactus plant. Water the plant twice per week for a month unless nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C.). In this case, do not water unless up to 4 months have gone by without precipitation. If transplant takes place in spring or summer, cover the plant with shade cloth to prevent burning. Keep the cloth in place for 3 to 4 weeks as the plant re-establishes and adapts to its new conditions. Large plants over 5 feet in height will benefit from staking. After a month, diminish watering frequency to every 2 to 3 weeks in summer and 2 to 3 times during winter. Watch for signs of stress and address each symptom individually. Within a few months, your plant should be well established and on its way to recovery from the moving process.
Before Moving Cacti in the Landscape
Mature cactus plants can get quite large and require professional assistance to minimize plant damage. If you are determined to take on the process yourself, consider site preparation, have several extra hands available and prepare the plant carefully to avoid harming pads, limbs and causing yourself and your helpers any pain. Only transplant healthy specimens that will have the best chance of re-establishing. A word of caution: wild cactus cannot be harvested legally in most areas, so this information applies to cultivated cacti in the landscape only. Preparation is crucial when moving a cactus plant. Mark the plant so you can situate it in the same orientation in which it is growing. Plants with large pads should be swaddled in an old blanket or something that will cushion the limbs while giving you protection from the spines.
How to Transplant a Cactus
Begin by digging a trench around the plant 1 to 2 feet away and about 18 inches deep. Then start prying around the plant gently. Cactus roots are usually near the surface but are delicate, so be careful during this process. Once you have excavated the roots, use the shovel to pry out the plant. Wrap a large garden hose around the plant and lift it out of the hole. If the plant is large, you may need more than two people, or even a vehicle for pulling. Successfully transplanting a cactus requires careful new site preparation. The cactus roots should air dry for a few days before installing the plant in its new location. During this time, assess the soil and amend as needed. In sandy locations, add 25% compost. In areas with rich or clay soil, add pumice to help assist with drainage. Dig a shallow, wide hole that is the same size as the original planting site. Orient the cactus at the same exposure it experienced in the old planting location. This is one of the more crucial details because it will prevent or minimize sunburn. Carefully lift the plant and settle it in the correct orientation in the prepared hole. Backfill around the roots and tamp down. Water the plant deeply to settle the soil. Some special care is required for several months after moving a cactus plant. Water the plant twice per week for a month unless nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C.). In this case, do not water unless up to 4 months have gone by without precipitation. If transplant takes place in spring or summer, cover the plant with shade cloth to prevent burning. Keep the cloth in place for 3 to 4 weeks as the plant re-establishes and adapts to its new conditions. Large plants over 5 feet in height will benefit from staking. After a month, diminish watering frequency to every 2 to 3 weeks in summer and 2 to 3 times during winter. Watch for signs of stress and address each symptom individually. Within a few months, your plant should be well established and on its way to recovery from the moving process.
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