文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lilies are not true lilies but in the Araceae family. They are beautiful evergreen plants that produce creamy white spathes, similar to flowers. The presence of these plants in your home or garden may pose a risk to your pets, especially dogs that like to chew different plants in the landscape. How toxic is peace lily? Read this article for the answer and tips on how to protect your pet. 
How Toxic is Peace Lily?
As glorious as peace lilies are when they are blooming, there is an underlying menace in these hooded flowering plants. The presence of peace lily and dogs can be an unfriendly equation. Is peace lily toxic to dogs? All parts of the plant, from stems to leaves and even the attractive blooms, contain an irritating toxin that can be dangerous to man’s best friend, so it is best to remove or fence off an area where peace lilies grow. Peace lily isn’t technically poisonous, but it contains a compound that can be extremely bothersome to pets, children and even an adult if consumed. Even the pollen from the spadix can cause oral irritation if licked off fur and paws. The culprit is the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. These are also called raphides, and are needle sharp and shoot out of damaged parts of the plant. The crystals are insoluble and persistent when they contact tissue. The result is an inflammatory reaction, which can be mild to severe and accompanied by other symptoms.
Symptoms of Peace Lily Toxicity in Dogs
As if having an inflamed, irritated mouth, muzzle and throat aren’t enough, peace lily toxicity in dogs can also manifest several other symptoms. Animals may also get diarrhea, vomit and exhibit excessive drooling. In severe cases, your dog may appear to have trouble breathing due to an inflamed airway. The symptoms can be very distressing but usually don’t warrant a trip to your veterinarian. If the animal shows signs of airway discomfort or if symptoms persist, however, it is time to call your animal doctor and seek treatment. In most cases, the irritation is minor and home remedies can do the trick. If you are unsure what plant your dog may have eaten, it is also a good idea to seek the advice of your vet.
Treating Peace Lily Symptoms
If symptoms are mild and the dog is not in too much distress, make sure there are no plant parts still in its mouth. Try to rinse the dog’s mouth out and encourage drinking of water. Ice chips can ease the discomfort or even ice cream. If the animal is experiencing difficulty breathing, you should take it to the veterinarian. Steroids and anti-inflammatory drugs are the usual prescription. Once your animal is comfortable, take steps to remove peace lily and dogs from each other’s company. Either pot up the plants and place them in a high location or simply remove them from the landscape. Determining how to deal with the problem also depends upon how successfully your dog learned from its lesson. In most cases, the animal will never go near the plant again.
How Toxic is Peace Lily?
As glorious as peace lilies are when they are blooming, there is an underlying menace in these hooded flowering plants. The presence of peace lily and dogs can be an unfriendly equation. Is peace lily toxic to dogs? All parts of the plant, from stems to leaves and even the attractive blooms, contain an irritating toxin that can be dangerous to man’s best friend, so it is best to remove or fence off an area where peace lilies grow. Peace lily isn’t technically poisonous, but it contains a compound that can be extremely bothersome to pets, children and even an adult if consumed. Even the pollen from the spadix can cause oral irritation if licked off fur and paws. The culprit is the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. These are also called raphides, and are needle sharp and shoot out of damaged parts of the plant. The crystals are insoluble and persistent when they contact tissue. The result is an inflammatory reaction, which can be mild to severe and accompanied by other symptoms.
Symptoms of Peace Lily Toxicity in Dogs
As if having an inflamed, irritated mouth, muzzle and throat aren’t enough, peace lily toxicity in dogs can also manifest several other symptoms. Animals may also get diarrhea, vomit and exhibit excessive drooling. In severe cases, your dog may appear to have trouble breathing due to an inflamed airway. The symptoms can be very distressing but usually don’t warrant a trip to your veterinarian. If the animal shows signs of airway discomfort or if symptoms persist, however, it is time to call your animal doctor and seek treatment. In most cases, the irritation is minor and home remedies can do the trick. If you are unsure what plant your dog may have eaten, it is also a good idea to seek the advice of your vet.
Treating Peace Lily Symptoms
If symptoms are mild and the dog is not in too much distress, make sure there are no plant parts still in its mouth. Try to rinse the dog’s mouth out and encourage drinking of water. Ice chips can ease the discomfort or even ice cream. If the animal is experiencing difficulty breathing, you should take it to the veterinarian. Steroids and anti-inflammatory drugs are the usual prescription. Once your animal is comfortable, take steps to remove peace lily and dogs from each other’s company. Either pot up the plants and place them in a high location or simply remove them from the landscape. Determining how to deal with the problem also depends upon how successfully your dog learned from its lesson. In most cases, the animal will never go near the plant again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
When it comes to easy indoor plants, it doesn’t get much easier than peace lily. This tough plant even tolerates low light and a certain amount of neglect. However, repotting a peace lily plant is occasionally necessary, as a rootbound plant isn’t able to absorb nutrients and water and may eventually die. Fortunately, peace lily repotting is easy! Keep reading to learn how to repot a peace lily.
When to Repot Peace Lilies
Does my peace lily need repotting? Peace lily is actually happy when its roots are slightly crowded, so don’t rush to repot if the plant doesn’t need it. However, if you notice roots growing through the drainage hole or circling around the surface of the potting mix, it’s time. If the roots become so compacted that water runs straight through the drainage hole without being absorbed into the potting mix, it’s time for an emergency peace lily repotting! Don’t panic if this is the case; repotting a peace lily isn’t difficult and your plant will soon rebound and grow like crazy in its new, roomier pot.
How to Repot a Peace Lily
Select a container only a size larger than the peace lily’s current pot. It may sound logical to use a larger pot, but a large amount of damp potting mix around the roots may contribute to root rot. It’s much better to repot the plant into gradually larger containers. Water the peace lily a day or two before repotting. Fill a container about one-third full with fresh, high quality potting mix. Remove the peace lily carefully from the container. If the roots are tightly compacted, loosen them carefully with your fingers so they can spread out in the new pot.
Set the peace lily in the new pot. Add or subtract potting mix to the bottom as needed; the top of the root ball should be about an inch below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the potting mix lightly with your fingers. Water the peace lily well, allowing excess liquid to drip through the drainage hole. Once the plant has completely drained, return it to its drainage saucer.
When to Repot Peace Lilies
Does my peace lily need repotting? Peace lily is actually happy when its roots are slightly crowded, so don’t rush to repot if the plant doesn’t need it. However, if you notice roots growing through the drainage hole or circling around the surface of the potting mix, it’s time. If the roots become so compacted that water runs straight through the drainage hole without being absorbed into the potting mix, it’s time for an emergency peace lily repotting! Don’t panic if this is the case; repotting a peace lily isn’t difficult and your plant will soon rebound and grow like crazy in its new, roomier pot.
How to Repot a Peace Lily
Select a container only a size larger than the peace lily’s current pot. It may sound logical to use a larger pot, but a large amount of damp potting mix around the roots may contribute to root rot. It’s much better to repot the plant into gradually larger containers. Water the peace lily a day or two before repotting. Fill a container about one-third full with fresh, high quality potting mix. Remove the peace lily carefully from the container. If the roots are tightly compacted, loosen them carefully with your fingers so they can spread out in the new pot.
Set the peace lily in the new pot. Add or subtract potting mix to the bottom as needed; the top of the root ball should be about an inch below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the potting mix lightly with your fingers. Water the peace lily well, allowing excess liquid to drip through the drainage hole. Once the plant has completely drained, return it to its drainage saucer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
It makes sense that indoor plants should improve air quality. After all, plants convert the carbon dioxide we breathe out into the oxygen we breathe in. It goes way beyond that, though. NASA (which has a pretty good reason to care about air quality in enclosed spaces) has conducted a study on how plants improve air quality. The study focuses on 19 plants that thrive indoors in low light and actively remove pollutants from the air. Way at the top of that list of plants is the peace lily. Keep reading to learn more about using peace lily plants for air purification.
Peace Lilies and Pollution
The NASA study focuses on common air pollutants that tend to be given off by manmade materials. These are chemicals that become trapped in the air in enclosed spaces and can be bad for your health if breathed in too much. One of these chemicals is Benzene, which can be naturally given off by gasoline, paint, rubber, tobacco smoke, detergent, and a variety of synthetic fibers. Another is Trichloroethylene, which can be found in paint, lacquer, glue, and varnish. In other words, it’s commonly given off by furniture.
Peace lilies have been found to be very good at removing these two chemicals from the air. They absorb the pollutants from the air through their leaves, then send them to their roots, where they’re broken down by microbes in the soil. So this makes using peace lily plants for air purification in the home a definite plus. Do peace lilies help with air quality in any other ways? Yes, they do. In addition to help with air pollutants in the home, they also give off a lot of moisture in the air.
Getting clean air with peace lilies can be even more effective if a lot of the pot’s topsoil is exposed to the air. Pollutants can be absorbed straight into the soil and broken down this way. Trim away the lowest leaves on your peace lily to allow lots of direct contact between the soil and the air. If you want to get clean air with peace lilies, simply add these plants to your home.
Peace Lilies and Pollution
The NASA study focuses on common air pollutants that tend to be given off by manmade materials. These are chemicals that become trapped in the air in enclosed spaces and can be bad for your health if breathed in too much. One of these chemicals is Benzene, which can be naturally given off by gasoline, paint, rubber, tobacco smoke, detergent, and a variety of synthetic fibers. Another is Trichloroethylene, which can be found in paint, lacquer, glue, and varnish. In other words, it’s commonly given off by furniture.
Peace lilies have been found to be very good at removing these two chemicals from the air. They absorb the pollutants from the air through their leaves, then send them to their roots, where they’re broken down by microbes in the soil. So this makes using peace lily plants for air purification in the home a definite plus. Do peace lilies help with air quality in any other ways? Yes, they do. In addition to help with air pollutants in the home, they also give off a lot of moisture in the air.
Getting clean air with peace lilies can be even more effective if a lot of the pot’s topsoil is exposed to the air. Pollutants can be absorbed straight into the soil and broken down this way. Trim away the lowest leaves on your peace lily to allow lots of direct contact between the soil and the air. If you want to get clean air with peace lilies, simply add these plants to your home.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
It makes sense that indoor plants should improve air quality. After all, plants convert the carbon dioxide we breathe out into the oxygen we breathe in. It goes way beyond that, though. NASA (which has a pretty good reason to care about air quality in enclosed spaces) has conducted a study on how plants improve air quality. The study focuses on 19 plants that thrive indoors in low light and actively remove pollutants from the air. Way at the top of that list of plants is the peace lily. Keep reading to learn more about using peace lily plants for air purification.
Peace Lilies and Pollution
The NASA study focuses on common air pollutants that tend to be given off by manmade materials. These are chemicals that become trapped in the air in enclosed spaces and can be bad for your health if breathed in too much. One of these chemicals is Benzene, which can be naturally given off by gasoline, paint, rubber, tobacco smoke, detergent, and a variety of synthetic fibers. Another is Trichloroethylene, which can be found in paint, lacquer, glue, and varnish. In other words, it’s commonly given off by furniture.
Peace lilies have been found to be very good at removing these two chemicals from the air. They absorb the pollutants from the air through their leaves, then send them to their roots, where they’re broken down by microbes in the soil. So this makes using peace lily plants for air purification in the home a definite plus.
Do peace lilies help with air quality in any other ways? Yes, they do. In addition to help with air pollutants in the home, they also give off a lot of moisture in the air. Getting clean air with peace lilies can be even more effective if a lot of the pot’s topsoil is exposed to the air. Pollutants can be absorbed straight into the soil and broken down this way. Trim away the lowest leaves on your peace lily to allow lots of direct contact between the soil and the air. If you want to get clean air with peace lilies, simply add these plants to your home.
Peace Lilies and Pollution
The NASA study focuses on common air pollutants that tend to be given off by manmade materials. These are chemicals that become trapped in the air in enclosed spaces and can be bad for your health if breathed in too much. One of these chemicals is Benzene, which can be naturally given off by gasoline, paint, rubber, tobacco smoke, detergent, and a variety of synthetic fibers. Another is Trichloroethylene, which can be found in paint, lacquer, glue, and varnish. In other words, it’s commonly given off by furniture.
Peace lilies have been found to be very good at removing these two chemicals from the air. They absorb the pollutants from the air through their leaves, then send them to their roots, where they’re broken down by microbes in the soil. So this makes using peace lily plants for air purification in the home a definite plus.
Do peace lilies help with air quality in any other ways? Yes, they do. In addition to help with air pollutants in the home, they also give off a lot of moisture in the air. Getting clean air with peace lilies can be even more effective if a lot of the pot’s topsoil is exposed to the air. Pollutants can be absorbed straight into the soil and broken down this way. Trim away the lowest leaves on your peace lily to allow lots of direct contact between the soil and the air. If you want to get clean air with peace lilies, simply add these plants to your home.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cacti are among the best known warm-weather plants, so you may be surprised to hear about freeze damage to cactus. But even in summer toasty regions of Arizona, temperatures can dip down to below 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 C.) in winter. This can result in freeze damage to cactus. If you find your cactus damaged after a cold snap, you’ll want to know how to care for a frozen cactus. Can a frozen cactus be saved? How do you start reviving a frozen cactus? Read on for tips in assisting a cactus damaged by cold.
Recognizing a Cactus Damaged by Cold
When you have a cactus damaged by cold, how can you tell? The first sign of freeze damage to cactus plants is softened tissue. This tissue often turns white, initially. However, in time the damaged areas of the plant turn black and decay. Finally, the freeze damaged parts of the succulent will fall off.
How to Care for a Frozen Cactus
When you see your cactus tips or trunks turn from green to white to purple, don’t take any action. The odds are good that the cactus will heal itself. But when those tips turn from green to white to black, you will need to prune. Wait until a sunny day later in the spring season to be sure that the cold weather has passed. Then snip off the black parts. This means that you cut off the arm tips or even remove the “head” of the cactus if it is black. Cut at a joint if the cactus is jointed. Don’t hesitate to act once the cactus parts have blackened. The black portions are dead and rotting. Failure to remove them can spread decay and kill the entire cactus. Assuming things go according to plan, your pruning will help in reviving a frozen cactus. In a few months, the chopped section will sprout some new growth. It won’t look exactly the same, but the parts of the cactus damaged by cold will be gone.
Recognizing a Cactus Damaged by Cold
When you have a cactus damaged by cold, how can you tell? The first sign of freeze damage to cactus plants is softened tissue. This tissue often turns white, initially. However, in time the damaged areas of the plant turn black and decay. Finally, the freeze damaged parts of the succulent will fall off.
How to Care for a Frozen Cactus
When you see your cactus tips or trunks turn from green to white to purple, don’t take any action. The odds are good that the cactus will heal itself. But when those tips turn from green to white to black, you will need to prune. Wait until a sunny day later in the spring season to be sure that the cold weather has passed. Then snip off the black parts. This means that you cut off the arm tips or even remove the “head” of the cactus if it is black. Cut at a joint if the cactus is jointed. Don’t hesitate to act once the cactus parts have blackened. The black portions are dead and rotting. Failure to remove them can spread decay and kill the entire cactus. Assuming things go according to plan, your pruning will help in reviving a frozen cactus. In a few months, the chopped section will sprout some new growth. It won’t look exactly the same, but the parts of the cactus damaged by cold will be gone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Prickly pear cacti, also known as Opuntia, are lovely cactus plants that can be planted in an outdoor desert garden or kept as a houseplant. Unfortunately, there are several common diseases that can attack these beautiful plants. One of the most serious diseases that affects prickly pear is cactus sunscald.
What is Cactus Sunscald?
So, what is cactus sunscald? Despite the name, cactus sunscald disease is not a result of sun exposure. It is actually a disease caused by the fungus Hendersonia opuntiae. This fungus infects the cladodes, or cactus pads, which are the thickened, flattened, green stems of Opuntia cacti. Cactus sunscald disease first causes discoloration and cracking in a localized area of one cladode, then gradually spreads. This eventually causes the entire cactus to rot.
Signs of Cactus Sunscald Disease
Cactus sunscald is common, so it is important to recognize the signs. The problems begin when a small, circular, greyish-brown spot appears on one of the cactus pads. The discolored area may also be cracked. The infected area will later expand across the cladode, and the outer portion may turn reddish-brown. Finally, the entire cactus will rot. Once cactus sunscald begins to attack a cactus, other fungi may also take advantage of the infection and begin growing in the damaged area. Mycosphaerella fungi can also cause a similar disease, also known as sunscald or scorch, on prickly pear cacti. This disease causes similar symptoms and will also eventually kill the cactus. Sunburn on cactus can appear similar to cactus sunscald, but the affected area will appear yellowish or white and will not appear to be gradually spreading from a small original area. Sunburn can be prevented by shielding the cactus from intense sun. As long as the sunburn is not severe, it will not kill the plant.
Cactus Sunscald Treatment
Unfortunately, treating cactus sunscald is difficult or impossible. There is no cure, and infected plants usually cannot be saved. If you have more than one Opuntia cactus, focus on preventing the disease from spreading to the healthy plants. The first step it to recognize the disease and to distinguish it from a sunburn. If your cactus does have sunscald, you should remove and dispose of the infected cactus as soon as possible to prevent the disease from spreading to healthy plants.
What is Cactus Sunscald?
So, what is cactus sunscald? Despite the name, cactus sunscald disease is not a result of sun exposure. It is actually a disease caused by the fungus Hendersonia opuntiae. This fungus infects the cladodes, or cactus pads, which are the thickened, flattened, green stems of Opuntia cacti. Cactus sunscald disease first causes discoloration and cracking in a localized area of one cladode, then gradually spreads. This eventually causes the entire cactus to rot.
Signs of Cactus Sunscald Disease
Cactus sunscald is common, so it is important to recognize the signs. The problems begin when a small, circular, greyish-brown spot appears on one of the cactus pads. The discolored area may also be cracked. The infected area will later expand across the cladode, and the outer portion may turn reddish-brown. Finally, the entire cactus will rot. Once cactus sunscald begins to attack a cactus, other fungi may also take advantage of the infection and begin growing in the damaged area. Mycosphaerella fungi can also cause a similar disease, also known as sunscald or scorch, on prickly pear cacti. This disease causes similar symptoms and will also eventually kill the cactus. Sunburn on cactus can appear similar to cactus sunscald, but the affected area will appear yellowish or white and will not appear to be gradually spreading from a small original area. Sunburn can be prevented by shielding the cactus from intense sun. As long as the sunburn is not severe, it will not kill the plant.
Cactus Sunscald Treatment
Unfortunately, treating cactus sunscald is difficult or impossible. There is no cure, and infected plants usually cannot be saved. If you have more than one Opuntia cactus, focus on preventing the disease from spreading to the healthy plants. The first step it to recognize the disease and to distinguish it from a sunburn. If your cactus does have sunscald, you should remove and dispose of the infected cactus as soon as possible to prevent the disease from spreading to healthy plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Succulents, like all plants, are susceptible to pest infestations. Sometimes, the pests are readily visible and at other times difficult to see, but their damage is obvious. An example of this is succulent mite damage. Mites that affect succulents, of which there are many, are difficult to see with the naked eye but their damage is there for the world to see. Read on to find out about mites on succulent plants and succulent mite control.
Mites That Affect Succulents
Due to the dizzying array of succulents to choose from, many people are so fascinated by them they become virtual succulent hoarders. Collecting succulents is a great hobby but the one downside may be if the collection becomes pest infested. Pest and diseases especially afflict large collections and can be difficult to control in its entirety. Mealybugs, scale, whitefly, various weevils and a few varieties of mitesare examples of pests that attack succulents. Most pests can be controlled with systemic or contact insecticides, insecticidal soaps and sometimes natural predators. How about mites?
Succulent Mite Control
Spider mites damage both cacti and succulents by sucking the plant’s juices. The first sign you have spider mites on succulent plants will be webbing and small brown spots on young growth. These tiny “insects” are not really insects at all but are more closely related to spiders. They look like dust when viewed by the naked eye. Red spider mites are actually reddish-brown in color and thrive in hot, dry conditions. They dislike humidity, so misting and overhead watering can reduce their incidence. These red spider mites should not be confused with harmless, much larger red mite, which is a harmless predator mite. To thoroughly rid the plant of these mites, use a miticideaccording to the manufacturer’s directions. There is also a predator that can be used as a biological control, Phytoseiulus persimilis. This predator requires temperatures over 70 F. (21 C.) and it’s also difficult to maintain a balance between predator and prey. Spider mites are not the only mites responsible for afflicting succulents. Mites that feed on aloe also attack other species such as Haworthia and Gasteri, and are called eriophyid mites. Unlike spider mites, which have four sets of legs, these mites have two sets of legs. As this mite feeds, it injects a chemical into the tissue that results in galling or other abnormal growth. In the case of aloe plants, aloe succulent mite damage is irreversible and the plant must be discarded. Place infected plants in a plastic bag or incinerate to prevent contamination of other plants. If infestation is minimal, treat the plant with a miticide according to manufacturer’s instructions. Frost hardy aloes can be exposed to freezing temperatures, which will kill the mites. Another mite, the two-spotted mite, feeds primarily on yucca. Under a microscope, this mite is pink, yellow-green or red with two dark spots on its body. These mites have eight legs but no wings or antennae. Tell-tale signs of the presence of the two-spotted mite are tan or gray stippling of foliage. As the infestation progresses, again, a fine webbing can be seen on the undersides of leaves. If the infestation is severe, the plant will die. Insecticidal soap and keeping the plant area high in humidity by misting will retard the mite population. Also, chemical control with the aid of products known as acaricides will help. To really get a handle on the mites, inspect the succulents frequently so you can take action before the infestation gets out of hand. Keep the plants healthy with the proper amount of water, fertilizer and light. Remove any dead or dying succulent parts and dispose of truly ailing plants immediately.
Mites That Affect Succulents
Due to the dizzying array of succulents to choose from, many people are so fascinated by them they become virtual succulent hoarders. Collecting succulents is a great hobby but the one downside may be if the collection becomes pest infested. Pest and diseases especially afflict large collections and can be difficult to control in its entirety. Mealybugs, scale, whitefly, various weevils and a few varieties of mitesare examples of pests that attack succulents. Most pests can be controlled with systemic or contact insecticides, insecticidal soaps and sometimes natural predators. How about mites?
Succulent Mite Control
Spider mites damage both cacti and succulents by sucking the plant’s juices. The first sign you have spider mites on succulent plants will be webbing and small brown spots on young growth. These tiny “insects” are not really insects at all but are more closely related to spiders. They look like dust when viewed by the naked eye. Red spider mites are actually reddish-brown in color and thrive in hot, dry conditions. They dislike humidity, so misting and overhead watering can reduce their incidence. These red spider mites should not be confused with harmless, much larger red mite, which is a harmless predator mite. To thoroughly rid the plant of these mites, use a miticideaccording to the manufacturer’s directions. There is also a predator that can be used as a biological control, Phytoseiulus persimilis. This predator requires temperatures over 70 F. (21 C.) and it’s also difficult to maintain a balance between predator and prey. Spider mites are not the only mites responsible for afflicting succulents. Mites that feed on aloe also attack other species such as Haworthia and Gasteri, and are called eriophyid mites. Unlike spider mites, which have four sets of legs, these mites have two sets of legs. As this mite feeds, it injects a chemical into the tissue that results in galling or other abnormal growth. In the case of aloe plants, aloe succulent mite damage is irreversible and the plant must be discarded. Place infected plants in a plastic bag or incinerate to prevent contamination of other plants. If infestation is minimal, treat the plant with a miticide according to manufacturer’s instructions. Frost hardy aloes can be exposed to freezing temperatures, which will kill the mites. Another mite, the two-spotted mite, feeds primarily on yucca. Under a microscope, this mite is pink, yellow-green or red with two dark spots on its body. These mites have eight legs but no wings or antennae. Tell-tale signs of the presence of the two-spotted mite are tan or gray stippling of foliage. As the infestation progresses, again, a fine webbing can be seen on the undersides of leaves. If the infestation is severe, the plant will die. Insecticidal soap and keeping the plant area high in humidity by misting will retard the mite population. Also, chemical control with the aid of products known as acaricides will help. To really get a handle on the mites, inspect the succulents frequently so you can take action before the infestation gets out of hand. Keep the plants healthy with the proper amount of water, fertilizer and light. Remove any dead or dying succulent parts and dispose of truly ailing plants immediately.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Gardeners must be ever vigilant when it comes to diseases on their plants. Often, a speedy diagnosis can help prevent more damage. This is the case with scab of cactus. What is cactus scab? Read on to learn more.
What is Cactus Scab?
Cactus scab is particularly common on prickly pear cactus but can affect many other varieties. It is a form of edema, where something has stimulated an abnormal increase in the size of the cells. This results in strange patches on the skin of the plant. It occurs in many other plants too, such as:
Tomatoes Cucumbers Potatoes Begonia Violets Cabbage Cracks, discoloration, dry scabby lesions? Identifying the issue is quite easy, although the appearance can be mistaken for sunscaldor spider mite attacks. Initial signs of scab of cactus are pale yellow spots on the skin of the plant. These become irregular, corky or rusty. Hence, the name corky scab. The whole effect looks like the cactus has a patch of eczema. Essentially, the cells in the epidermis are breaking and opening up, resulting in almost wound-like lesions. The oldest parts of the plant are usually the first to show signs, with young shoots rarely being affected until they mature. Some plants experience just a few patches, while others can become covered in them.
What Causes Corky Scab on Cactus?
It is believed to be caused by poor cultivation methods and, once noted, can be halted before it damages any more of the plant. Corky scab on cactus is primarily an aesthetic disease, but it can have economic impact in commercial growing. Luckily, the problem is easy to prevent by changing cultural methods. As one of the more common diseases of cactus, corky scab is thought to be the result of overwatering, low temperatures and poor ventilation. It is most common in areas where there is abundant, warm water in soil and cool, moist temperatures. Other situations thought to stimulate the disease are high light, injury to the plant, chemicals and poor drainage. Since most of these conditions can be controlled, cactus scab treatment relies upon changing the cultural situation and methods. Outdoor plants may need to be moved to a location where more control over wind, temperature and ambient humidity are possible.
Cactus Scab Treatment
There are no sprays, drenches or systemic preparations for cactus scab treatment. Avoid irrigating in cool, moist weather and ensure good drainage is occurring. Never let a cactus sit on a saucer in water. If plants are indoors or in a greenhouse, increase ventilation. Increase the temperature of the area in which the plant is being grown. Avoid fertilizing in fall and winter, and do not use a formula with a high nitrogen content. Keep light bright but not above 14,000 foot candles, or lumens. If necessary, repot the plant into fresh cactus mixture. Generally, going back to good cactus cultivation and ensuring good light, watering practices and diminishing humidity will prevent any further corking and see your plant back on the road to optimum health.
What is Cactus Scab?
Cactus scab is particularly common on prickly pear cactus but can affect many other varieties. It is a form of edema, where something has stimulated an abnormal increase in the size of the cells. This results in strange patches on the skin of the plant. It occurs in many other plants too, such as:
Tomatoes Cucumbers Potatoes Begonia Violets Cabbage Cracks, discoloration, dry scabby lesions? Identifying the issue is quite easy, although the appearance can be mistaken for sunscaldor spider mite attacks. Initial signs of scab of cactus are pale yellow spots on the skin of the plant. These become irregular, corky or rusty. Hence, the name corky scab. The whole effect looks like the cactus has a patch of eczema. Essentially, the cells in the epidermis are breaking and opening up, resulting in almost wound-like lesions. The oldest parts of the plant are usually the first to show signs, with young shoots rarely being affected until they mature. Some plants experience just a few patches, while others can become covered in them.
What Causes Corky Scab on Cactus?
It is believed to be caused by poor cultivation methods and, once noted, can be halted before it damages any more of the plant. Corky scab on cactus is primarily an aesthetic disease, but it can have economic impact in commercial growing. Luckily, the problem is easy to prevent by changing cultural methods. As one of the more common diseases of cactus, corky scab is thought to be the result of overwatering, low temperatures and poor ventilation. It is most common in areas where there is abundant, warm water in soil and cool, moist temperatures. Other situations thought to stimulate the disease are high light, injury to the plant, chemicals and poor drainage. Since most of these conditions can be controlled, cactus scab treatment relies upon changing the cultural situation and methods. Outdoor plants may need to be moved to a location where more control over wind, temperature and ambient humidity are possible.
Cactus Scab Treatment
There are no sprays, drenches or systemic preparations for cactus scab treatment. Avoid irrigating in cool, moist weather and ensure good drainage is occurring. Never let a cactus sit on a saucer in water. If plants are indoors or in a greenhouse, increase ventilation. Increase the temperature of the area in which the plant is being grown. Avoid fertilizing in fall and winter, and do not use a formula with a high nitrogen content. Keep light bright but not above 14,000 foot candles, or lumens. If necessary, repot the plant into fresh cactus mixture. Generally, going back to good cactus cultivation and ensuring good light, watering practices and diminishing humidity will prevent any further corking and see your plant back on the road to optimum health.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
If you have prickly pear or cholla cacti in your landscape, you’ve probably been confronted with a cottony white mass on the surface of the plants. If you were to remove the mass and crush it on a piece of paper, the result would be a smear of vibrant red, a tell-tale sign of the presence of cochineal scale bugs. What is a cochineal scale and how can you treat cochineal scale? Let’s learn more.
What is Cochineal Scale?
Cochineal scale (Dactylopious spp.) bugs are commonly found on cactus of the Opuntia genera of cacti. It is an insect native to the New World, which was used by the Aztecs for dying and painting. Spanish conquistadors took dried cochineal scale powder back to their homeland where it became a sought after red dye until the 1850’s. Cochineal dye was replaced in popularity by aniline dyes but is still commercially produced in Mexico and India where it is still used to color food, drinks, cosmetics and paints.
Cochineal Scale on Cactus
These small insects suck on cacti leaves. Cochineal scale on cactus is initially a nuisance but, in extreme infestations, can weaken and kill the plant. The cottony, waxy mass is produced to shelter the female insects and their eggs. When the eggs hatch, the nymphs feed on the plant for three weeks, moving all around the plant. After their three weeks of feeding, the nymphs settle down to spin the cottony mass that shelters them from predators.
How to Treat Cochineal Scale
If the infestation of scale is minimal, cochineal scale treatment consists simply of a spray of water. Blast the affected area with hose under pressure. This will expose and weaken the scale bugs, which can then be treated with an insecticidal soap or a mix of ½ teaspoon of dish soap to a gallon of water. If the problem persists, prune off the worst pads at the joints and discard them. If the cactus seems to be heavily infested, you may have to go with a chemical cochineal scale treatment. Apply a combination of insecticide, dormant oil spray and/or insecticidal soap. Malathion and triazide combined with Neem oil or Volck dormant oil spray should do the trick. Apply according to the manufacturer’s directions. Do not spray on hot, sunny days, as the plant is likely to burn from the dormant oil. If the weather is too hot to use dormant oil, use pesticide mixed with dish soap. Cochineal scale is spread around by sticking to birds’ feet, so you need to inspect the plant frequently. Spray the cactus well, paying attention to joints. Spray again in 7 days and then again 14 days after the first application. You’ll know if the scale is being killed off when the white cottony tufts turn gray and squeezing them doesn’t result in a red smear. If scale is still alive after 14-30 days, reapply as above.
What is Cochineal Scale?
Cochineal scale (Dactylopious spp.) bugs are commonly found on cactus of the Opuntia genera of cacti. It is an insect native to the New World, which was used by the Aztecs for dying and painting. Spanish conquistadors took dried cochineal scale powder back to their homeland where it became a sought after red dye until the 1850’s. Cochineal dye was replaced in popularity by aniline dyes but is still commercially produced in Mexico and India where it is still used to color food, drinks, cosmetics and paints.
Cochineal Scale on Cactus
These small insects suck on cacti leaves. Cochineal scale on cactus is initially a nuisance but, in extreme infestations, can weaken and kill the plant. The cottony, waxy mass is produced to shelter the female insects and their eggs. When the eggs hatch, the nymphs feed on the plant for three weeks, moving all around the plant. After their three weeks of feeding, the nymphs settle down to spin the cottony mass that shelters them from predators.
How to Treat Cochineal Scale
If the infestation of scale is minimal, cochineal scale treatment consists simply of a spray of water. Blast the affected area with hose under pressure. This will expose and weaken the scale bugs, which can then be treated with an insecticidal soap or a mix of ½ teaspoon of dish soap to a gallon of water. If the problem persists, prune off the worst pads at the joints and discard them. If the cactus seems to be heavily infested, you may have to go with a chemical cochineal scale treatment. Apply a combination of insecticide, dormant oil spray and/or insecticidal soap. Malathion and triazide combined with Neem oil or Volck dormant oil spray should do the trick. Apply according to the manufacturer’s directions. Do not spray on hot, sunny days, as the plant is likely to burn from the dormant oil. If the weather is too hot to use dormant oil, use pesticide mixed with dish soap. Cochineal scale is spread around by sticking to birds’ feet, so you need to inspect the plant frequently. Spray the cactus well, paying attention to joints. Spray again in 7 days and then again 14 days after the first application. You’ll know if the scale is being killed off when the white cottony tufts turn gray and squeezing them doesn’t result in a red smear. If scale is still alive after 14-30 days, reapply as above.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Nematodes are tiny, microscopic roundworms that live in the soil and feed on plants. While some are nitrogen fixing and actually beneficial, others can cause serious damage and open up pathways in plants for harmful bacteria and disease. Root knot nematodes are very common among most cactus species. Keep reading to learn more about how to detect cactus root nematodes and the best methods for managing nematodes in cactus roots.
Cactus Root Knot Nematodes
Nematodes feed on plant roots by digging into the root’s cell walls with a sharp, pointed feeding tool called a sytlet. The puncture wound created by the stylet is usually more of a problem than the presence of the nematode itself, because it creates an opening that allows bacteria and fungi to enter easily into the plant, infecting it from within. Root knot nematodes are a specific kind of nematodes that feed on roots and usually create telltale fleshy masses, or “galls” on the roots. These galls make it difficult for the cactus to draw up water and nutrients properly. Since the galls form underground, it’s necessary to look for aboveground signs that your cactus is infected. The lack of adequate water and nutrients can make for a plant that’s yellowed, shriveled and stunted looking.
Treating Nematodes of Cactus
The best method for root knot nematode control is prevention. If you’re planting your cacti in containers, always use new, sterile potting medium and clean any used containers thoroughly. If cactus root knot nematodes are already in your soil, it’s possible to treat with nematicides. These chemicals usually come in either granular or liquid form, and can be applied in a few different ways. Always follow the application instructions on the label exactly. It’s easier on the plant to treat soil before planting, but you can treat the soil around your established cactus this way as well.
Cactus Root Knot Nematodes
Nematodes feed on plant roots by digging into the root’s cell walls with a sharp, pointed feeding tool called a sytlet. The puncture wound created by the stylet is usually more of a problem than the presence of the nematode itself, because it creates an opening that allows bacteria and fungi to enter easily into the plant, infecting it from within. Root knot nematodes are a specific kind of nematodes that feed on roots and usually create telltale fleshy masses, or “galls” on the roots. These galls make it difficult for the cactus to draw up water and nutrients properly. Since the galls form underground, it’s necessary to look for aboveground signs that your cactus is infected. The lack of adequate water and nutrients can make for a plant that’s yellowed, shriveled and stunted looking.
Treating Nematodes of Cactus
The best method for root knot nematode control is prevention. If you’re planting your cacti in containers, always use new, sterile potting medium and clean any used containers thoroughly. If cactus root knot nematodes are already in your soil, it’s possible to treat with nematicides. These chemicals usually come in either granular or liquid form, and can be applied in a few different ways. Always follow the application instructions on the label exactly. It’s easier on the plant to treat soil before planting, but you can treat the soil around your established cactus this way as well.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Fusarium oxyporum is the name of a fungus that can affect a wide range of plants. It’s common in vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and potatoes, but it’s also a real problem with cacti. Keep reading to learn more about signs of fusarium wilt in cactus plants and methods for treating fusarium on cactus.
What is Cactus Fusarium?
While the fungus itself is called Fusarium oxyporum, the disease that results from it is commonly known as fusarium rot or fusarium wilt. The disease usually starts in the roots, where cactus fusarium enters through tiny wounds in the plant likely caused by nematodes. The fungus then spreads upward to the base of the cactus, where signs of fusarium wilt in cactus becomes more visible. A pink or white mold appears around the base of the plant, and the entire cactus might start to wilt and become discolored, turning red or purple. If the plant is cut open, it gives off a bad, rotting smell.
Treating Fusarium on Cactus Plants
Fusarium rot in cactus has no cure. Therefore, treating fusarium on cactus plants is more about prevention and damage control than it is about rehabilitation. If you find fusarium rot in cactus plants in your garden, you’ll likely have to dig up the plants and destroy them. If you catch it very early, however, you might be able to save the plant by cutting out the infected areas with a sharp knife and dusting the wounds with charcoal or sulphur dust. Cactus fusarium spreads quickly in hot, wet conditions, so try to keep your cacti as dry as possible. Always sterilize pots and use new, sterile soil when planting cacti to reduce the risk of introducing fusarium into its environment.
What is Cactus Fusarium?
While the fungus itself is called Fusarium oxyporum, the disease that results from it is commonly known as fusarium rot or fusarium wilt. The disease usually starts in the roots, where cactus fusarium enters through tiny wounds in the plant likely caused by nematodes. The fungus then spreads upward to the base of the cactus, where signs of fusarium wilt in cactus becomes more visible. A pink or white mold appears around the base of the plant, and the entire cactus might start to wilt and become discolored, turning red or purple. If the plant is cut open, it gives off a bad, rotting smell.
Treating Fusarium on Cactus Plants
Fusarium rot in cactus has no cure. Therefore, treating fusarium on cactus plants is more about prevention and damage control than it is about rehabilitation. If you find fusarium rot in cactus plants in your garden, you’ll likely have to dig up the plants and destroy them. If you catch it very early, however, you might be able to save the plant by cutting out the infected areas with a sharp knife and dusting the wounds with charcoal or sulphur dust. Cactus fusarium spreads quickly in hot, wet conditions, so try to keep your cacti as dry as possible. Always sterilize pots and use new, sterile soil when planting cacti to reduce the risk of introducing fusarium into its environment.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
A terrarium is a rather old-fashioned but charming way to make a mini garden in a glass container. The effect produced is rather like a tiny forest residing in your home. It is also a fun project that is great for kids and adults. Growing succulent plants in terrariums provides the plants with an easy care situation in which they will thrive. Because succulents do not like wet environments, a few tips and adjustments to the traditional terrarium are required. Read on to find out how to make a succulent terrarium that will keep the little plants happy and healthy.
Succulent Terrarium Instructions
Terrariums and dish gardens have been a part of indoor growing for centuries. Succulent plants seem to like arid conditions and a desert or beach themed terrarium will provide the right conditions while adding some unexpected appeal in the home.
Creating succulent terrariums doesn’t take a lot of time or money. You can literally make one in an old food jar or search a thrift market for an unusual dish or clear container. Then it’s time to plant and add any touches to the diorama. You can make the terrarium as ornate or simple as you wish. The original terrariums were made in elegant Wardian cases, so named for the originator of the idea, Dr. N.B. Ward. Succulents will do well in almost any container. The only trick is to make an open rather than closed system to prevent excess moisture from building up and killing the plant.
Creating Succulent Terrariums
The planting medium for succulents is crucial. Succulents are perfect for terrariums because they grow relatively slowly but the condensation that may build up can kill the little plants if the right medium isn’t used. Line the bottom of the container with fine gravel or rocks. On top of this layer an inch or so of charcoal. This absorbs odors and toxins that may be in the water. Next, place sphagnum moss and top it with cactus soil that has been lightly pre-moistened. Plant the little plants in the cactus mix and firm soil around them. A dowel or stick is helpful in digging the holes and filling around plants. Space plants at least an inch apart (2.5 cm.) so there is adequate air flow. Plants may need a Popsicle stick or small stake for the first few weeks to keep them upright. Now the really fun part happens – designing the terrarium. If you want a beach theme, add some seashells or for a desert look, install some rocks to complement the succulents. There is an almost endless supply of items that will enhance the natural look of the terrarium. Some growers even add ceramic figures to add to the sense of whimsy. Just make sure that anything you are putting into the terrarium has been well washed to avoid bringing in disease.
Succulent Terrarium Care
Place the terrarium in a brightly lit location but avoid direct sun which can scorch the plants inside. An area near a fan or blower is ideal, as this will increase circulation and help prevent damping off. Succulents can’t stand to be overwatered and if they are in standing water they will surely die. Your succulent garden won’t need to be watered very often. Wait until the soil is nearly completely dry before you water. Use tap water that has been off gassed or purchase purified water. Succulent terrarium care is pretty much the same as care of succulents in a pot. These plants thrive on neglect and don’t need supplemental fertilizer but once per year. Over time the succulents should fill in a bit and the whole terrarium will attain a natural appealing appearance.
Succulent Terrarium Instructions
Terrariums and dish gardens have been a part of indoor growing for centuries. Succulent plants seem to like arid conditions and a desert or beach themed terrarium will provide the right conditions while adding some unexpected appeal in the home.
Creating succulent terrariums doesn’t take a lot of time or money. You can literally make one in an old food jar or search a thrift market for an unusual dish or clear container. Then it’s time to plant and add any touches to the diorama. You can make the terrarium as ornate or simple as you wish. The original terrariums were made in elegant Wardian cases, so named for the originator of the idea, Dr. N.B. Ward. Succulents will do well in almost any container. The only trick is to make an open rather than closed system to prevent excess moisture from building up and killing the plant.
Creating Succulent Terrariums
The planting medium for succulents is crucial. Succulents are perfect for terrariums because they grow relatively slowly but the condensation that may build up can kill the little plants if the right medium isn’t used. Line the bottom of the container with fine gravel or rocks. On top of this layer an inch or so of charcoal. This absorbs odors and toxins that may be in the water. Next, place sphagnum moss and top it with cactus soil that has been lightly pre-moistened. Plant the little plants in the cactus mix and firm soil around them. A dowel or stick is helpful in digging the holes and filling around plants. Space plants at least an inch apart (2.5 cm.) so there is adequate air flow. Plants may need a Popsicle stick or small stake for the first few weeks to keep them upright. Now the really fun part happens – designing the terrarium. If you want a beach theme, add some seashells or for a desert look, install some rocks to complement the succulents. There is an almost endless supply of items that will enhance the natural look of the terrarium. Some growers even add ceramic figures to add to the sense of whimsy. Just make sure that anything you are putting into the terrarium has been well washed to avoid bringing in disease.
Succulent Terrarium Care
Place the terrarium in a brightly lit location but avoid direct sun which can scorch the plants inside. An area near a fan or blower is ideal, as this will increase circulation and help prevent damping off. Succulents can’t stand to be overwatered and if they are in standing water they will surely die. Your succulent garden won’t need to be watered very often. Wait until the soil is nearly completely dry before you water. Use tap water that has been off gassed or purchase purified water. Succulent terrarium care is pretty much the same as care of succulents in a pot. These plants thrive on neglect and don’t need supplemental fertilizer but once per year. Over time the succulents should fill in a bit and the whole terrarium will attain a natural appealing appearance.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Frailea (Frailea castanea syn. Frailea asterioides) are very small cacti that rarely reach 2 inches in diameter. The plants are native to Southern Brazil over to Northern Uruguay. These little cacti are quite interesting in their form but their life cycle is even more surprising. There are several species of this genus available for home growers, but the plants are considered threatened in their native habitat. Learn how to grow a Farilea cactus and add an interesting specimen to your arid garden collection.
Cactus Frailea Information
Rounded, flattish mounds of solitary to occasionally divided chocolate, purple-brown or greenish brown Frailea make interesting contrasts to other succulents. This genus is named for Manuel Fraile, who once was in charge of the cactus collection of the United States Department of Agriculture.
Growing cactus Frailea is not difficult and these little plants are super starter plants for the novice gardener or just for someone who travels consistently but wants to come home to a living thing. Frailea cactus care is one of the simpler cultivation processes in the plant world. The majority of these plants grow as solitary little flattened domes. The spines are extremely tiny and arrayed along the ribs. The body of the plant may range from chocolate to reddish green with several other color variations possible. Often, the plant will produce a fuzzy white fruit that dries to a fragile, membranous capsule filled with large seeds. This fruit is often a surprise as flowers are rare and are cleistogamous, meaning they don’t need to open to produce fruit and seed. If you are lucky enough to observe a full bloom, the flower will be larger than the body of the plant and rich sulfur yellow. Growing cactus Frailea is easy from seed as germination is quick and reliable.
How to Grow a Frailea Cactus
Frailea perform best in full sun but be cautious about placing them too close to a southern window where the flesh can burn. The tone of the cactus is darkest when it enjoys a full day of sunlight. This is a short lived plant that rarely exceeds 15 years before it dies back. Here’s a fun bit of cactus Frailea information. If plants are growing where no water is available, they have the interesting ability to hide in the soil. Don’t be shocked if your plant seems to have disappeared, as it is simply retracted under the soil just as it would do in the dry season in its native region. Once sufficient moisture is available, the plant swells and is again visible on the top of the soil.
Caring for Cactus Frailea
Caring for cactus Frailea is a balancing act between sufficient moisture but periods of soil drying, so water is the biggest challenge in Frailea cactus care. Choose water that is free from heavy minerals. Water well once per week in summer, but in spring and autumn water only once every 3 weeks or when the soil is quite dry to the touch. The plant experiences no growth in winter and does not need water. Once per month during the growing season use diluted cactus food. In summer, you can bring your indoor specimens outside but be careful to bring them back indoors before any cold temperatures threaten. Repot every few years with a good gritty succulent soil. Plants rarely need a larger pot and are quite content to be crowded. If you spot a seed pod, crack it open, sow seed in a flat with cactus mix and keep moderately moist in a sunny location. The ease of growing cactus Frailea is a welcome surprise and is a simple way to increase your collection.
Cactus Frailea Information
Rounded, flattish mounds of solitary to occasionally divided chocolate, purple-brown or greenish brown Frailea make interesting contrasts to other succulents. This genus is named for Manuel Fraile, who once was in charge of the cactus collection of the United States Department of Agriculture.
Growing cactus Frailea is not difficult and these little plants are super starter plants for the novice gardener or just for someone who travels consistently but wants to come home to a living thing. Frailea cactus care is one of the simpler cultivation processes in the plant world. The majority of these plants grow as solitary little flattened domes. The spines are extremely tiny and arrayed along the ribs. The body of the plant may range from chocolate to reddish green with several other color variations possible. Often, the plant will produce a fuzzy white fruit that dries to a fragile, membranous capsule filled with large seeds. This fruit is often a surprise as flowers are rare and are cleistogamous, meaning they don’t need to open to produce fruit and seed. If you are lucky enough to observe a full bloom, the flower will be larger than the body of the plant and rich sulfur yellow. Growing cactus Frailea is easy from seed as germination is quick and reliable.
How to Grow a Frailea Cactus
Frailea perform best in full sun but be cautious about placing them too close to a southern window where the flesh can burn. The tone of the cactus is darkest when it enjoys a full day of sunlight. This is a short lived plant that rarely exceeds 15 years before it dies back. Here’s a fun bit of cactus Frailea information. If plants are growing where no water is available, they have the interesting ability to hide in the soil. Don’t be shocked if your plant seems to have disappeared, as it is simply retracted under the soil just as it would do in the dry season in its native region. Once sufficient moisture is available, the plant swells and is again visible on the top of the soil.
Caring for Cactus Frailea
Caring for cactus Frailea is a balancing act between sufficient moisture but periods of soil drying, so water is the biggest challenge in Frailea cactus care. Choose water that is free from heavy minerals. Water well once per week in summer, but in spring and autumn water only once every 3 weeks or when the soil is quite dry to the touch. The plant experiences no growth in winter and does not need water. Once per month during the growing season use diluted cactus food. In summer, you can bring your indoor specimens outside but be careful to bring them back indoors before any cold temperatures threaten. Repot every few years with a good gritty succulent soil. Plants rarely need a larger pot and are quite content to be crowded. If you spot a seed pod, crack it open, sow seed in a flat with cactus mix and keep moderately moist in a sunny location. The ease of growing cactus Frailea is a welcome surprise and is a simple way to increase your collection.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Euphorbia is a large group of succulent and woody plants. Euphorbia obesa, also called baseball plant, forms a ball-like segmented shape that is adapted to hot, arid climates. Euphorbia baseball plant makes an excellent houseplant and is low maintenance. Enjoy this information on how to grow baseball euphorbia.
Euphorbia Baseball Plant Info
There is a wide array of Euphorbia species. They range from cactus-like spiny plants to thickly padded succulents and even shrubby, woody plants with veined leaves. Baseball plant was first documented in 1897, but by 1915 Euphorbia obesa was considered endangered due to its popularity, which led collectors to pirate the natural population. This rapid decline in the population led to an embargo on plant material and an emphasis on seed collection. Today, it is a widely grown plant and easy to find in many garden centers.
Euphorbia plants are classified by their white milky latex sap and the cyanthium. This is the inflorescence composed of a single female flower surrounded by many male flowers. Euphorbia do not form proper flowers but develop inflorescences. They do not grow petals but instead have colored bracts which are modified leaves. In the baseball plant, the inflorescence or flower leaves behind a scar which is successively displayed on the aging body of the plant. The scarring is similar to the stitching on a baseball. Euphorbia baseball plant is also called sea urchin plant, partially due to the shape of the body, which resembles the creature, but also due to the native habit of growing on rocks and cliffs. Specific baseball plant info indicates it is a segmented spherical plant with a rather bloated body that stores water. The round plant is grayish green and grows around 8 inches tall.
How to Grow Baseball Euphorbia
Euphorbia obesa care is minimal, making it the perfect houseplant for someone who travels a lot. It simply requires heat, light, a well draining soil, container, and minimal water. It makes a perfect container plant by itself or surrounded by other succulents. A good cactus mix or potting soil amended with grit make excellent mediums for growing a baseball plant. Add a little gravel to the soil and use an unglazed pot which will promote evaporation of any excess water. Once you have the plant in a location in your home, avoid moving it which stresses out the plant and can minimize its health. Overwatering is the most common cause of malaise in baseball plant. It is used to only 12 inches of rain per year, so a good deep watering once every few months in winter and once per month in the growing season is more than sufficient. Fertilizing is not necessary as part of good Euphorbia baseball care, but you can give the plant cactus food in spring at the onset of growth if you wish.
Euphorbia Baseball Plant Info
There is a wide array of Euphorbia species. They range from cactus-like spiny plants to thickly padded succulents and even shrubby, woody plants with veined leaves. Baseball plant was first documented in 1897, but by 1915 Euphorbia obesa was considered endangered due to its popularity, which led collectors to pirate the natural population. This rapid decline in the population led to an embargo on plant material and an emphasis on seed collection. Today, it is a widely grown plant and easy to find in many garden centers.
Euphorbia plants are classified by their white milky latex sap and the cyanthium. This is the inflorescence composed of a single female flower surrounded by many male flowers. Euphorbia do not form proper flowers but develop inflorescences. They do not grow petals but instead have colored bracts which are modified leaves. In the baseball plant, the inflorescence or flower leaves behind a scar which is successively displayed on the aging body of the plant. The scarring is similar to the stitching on a baseball. Euphorbia baseball plant is also called sea urchin plant, partially due to the shape of the body, which resembles the creature, but also due to the native habit of growing on rocks and cliffs. Specific baseball plant info indicates it is a segmented spherical plant with a rather bloated body that stores water. The round plant is grayish green and grows around 8 inches tall.
How to Grow Baseball Euphorbia
Euphorbia obesa care is minimal, making it the perfect houseplant for someone who travels a lot. It simply requires heat, light, a well draining soil, container, and minimal water. It makes a perfect container plant by itself or surrounded by other succulents. A good cactus mix or potting soil amended with grit make excellent mediums for growing a baseball plant. Add a little gravel to the soil and use an unglazed pot which will promote evaporation of any excess water. Once you have the plant in a location in your home, avoid moving it which stresses out the plant and can minimize its health. Overwatering is the most common cause of malaise in baseball plant. It is used to only 12 inches of rain per year, so a good deep watering once every few months in winter and once per month in the growing season is more than sufficient. Fertilizing is not necessary as part of good Euphorbia baseball care, but you can give the plant cactus food in spring at the onset of growth if you wish.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dragon bone cactus is technically a succulent not a cactus. It is in the family Euphorbia or Spurge, a broad group of plants that include poinsettias and cassava. The cactus also has several other names, among them candelabra cactus, false cactus, elkhorn and mottled spurge. In northern zones, caring for dragon bone plants will require you to grow it in a greenhouse, solarium or in a sunny room. Dragon bone euphorbia is an elegant and structurally unique plant that can also live on the patio in summer as long as it is brought indoors before cool temperatures arrive.
Dragon Bone Euphorbia
Gardeners with unusual taste will go nuts for dragon bone cactus (Euphorbia lactea). The triangular branches form an eclectic scaffold upon which tiny green heart-shaped leaves and numerous reddish pink spines occur. This succulent produces latex milky sap, which may be toxic to some gardeners, so it is best to use gloves when handling broken stems. Here are a few tips on how to grow dragon bones as an in-ground plant or potted specimen for the home interior.
Dragon bone is indigenous to India but can be grown in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. The plant may achieve 6 feet tall by 3 feet wide in containers but exceeds that in the ground, growing up to 12-15 feet in height. The tiny leaves fall off as the spines are produced and are only present on new growth. Overall the plant is leafless, thorned and has numerous vertical branches rising from a stout central leader. The branches are mottled green with white lines. Flowers are rare, tiny and inconspicuous. Propagation is best accomplished through stem cuttings.
These must be allowed to callus before planting. How to Grow Dragon Bones
Northern gardeners will do best if they plant the cactus in a well-draining pot. Choose a container that will evaporate excess moisture, such as a clay pot. Use a cactus soil mix or add gritty sand and pebbles to a commercial plant formula. This euphorbia doesn’t mind being crowded in its pot. In-ground plants benefit from added grit or install the plant in a rocky area of the garden that has mixed loam. Dragon bone prefers full sun with some protection from the midday light. Propagation of dragon bone is simple through stem cuttings. Use a sterile, sharp implement and allow to dry out for a few days and callus at the cut end. Use a soilless mixture to root the cuttings. Keep lightly moist but not soggy. Once the cutting has developed roots, transfer to a container with cactus mix.
Caring for Dragon Bone Plants
As part of dragon bone plant care, you should water regularly, at least once per week in the growing season, but allow soil to dry out in the top few inches. Do not allow the roots to stand in water. In the winter, water once per month to allow for the dormant period. Prune the plant as needed to remove errant stems or keep it in a tidy habit. Use gloves when handling the plant to avoid contact with the toxic sap. Use insecticidal soap to control the occasional pests such as mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites. Every two weeks in the growing season use water soluble fertilizer diluted to half for potted plants. Suspend feeding in fall and winter. In-ground plants should also be fertilized with a half dilution, which will replace the regularly scheduled irrigation. Dragon bones is a distinctive plant that is easy to care for and both drought and deer resistant. Try it in your home or landscape for matchless appeal and evocative design.
Dragon Bone Euphorbia
Gardeners with unusual taste will go nuts for dragon bone cactus (Euphorbia lactea). The triangular branches form an eclectic scaffold upon which tiny green heart-shaped leaves and numerous reddish pink spines occur. This succulent produces latex milky sap, which may be toxic to some gardeners, so it is best to use gloves when handling broken stems. Here are a few tips on how to grow dragon bones as an in-ground plant or potted specimen for the home interior.
Dragon bone is indigenous to India but can be grown in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. The plant may achieve 6 feet tall by 3 feet wide in containers but exceeds that in the ground, growing up to 12-15 feet in height. The tiny leaves fall off as the spines are produced and are only present on new growth. Overall the plant is leafless, thorned and has numerous vertical branches rising from a stout central leader. The branches are mottled green with white lines. Flowers are rare, tiny and inconspicuous. Propagation is best accomplished through stem cuttings.
These must be allowed to callus before planting. How to Grow Dragon Bones
Northern gardeners will do best if they plant the cactus in a well-draining pot. Choose a container that will evaporate excess moisture, such as a clay pot. Use a cactus soil mix or add gritty sand and pebbles to a commercial plant formula. This euphorbia doesn’t mind being crowded in its pot. In-ground plants benefit from added grit or install the plant in a rocky area of the garden that has mixed loam. Dragon bone prefers full sun with some protection from the midday light. Propagation of dragon bone is simple through stem cuttings. Use a sterile, sharp implement and allow to dry out for a few days and callus at the cut end. Use a soilless mixture to root the cuttings. Keep lightly moist but not soggy. Once the cutting has developed roots, transfer to a container with cactus mix.
Caring for Dragon Bone Plants
As part of dragon bone plant care, you should water regularly, at least once per week in the growing season, but allow soil to dry out in the top few inches. Do not allow the roots to stand in water. In the winter, water once per month to allow for the dormant period. Prune the plant as needed to remove errant stems or keep it in a tidy habit. Use gloves when handling the plant to avoid contact with the toxic sap. Use insecticidal soap to control the occasional pests such as mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites. Every two weeks in the growing season use water soluble fertilizer diluted to half for potted plants. Suspend feeding in fall and winter. In-ground plants should also be fertilized with a half dilution, which will replace the regularly scheduled irrigation. Dragon bones is a distinctive plant that is easy to care for and both drought and deer resistant. Try it in your home or landscape for matchless appeal and evocative design.
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