文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Who doesn’t love a spider plant? These charming little plants are easy to grow and produce “spiderettes” off the ends of their stems. These babies can be divided from the parent plant and grown as separate plants. Can you grow spider plants in water? Plants need certain nutrients to grow and thrive and can’t be sustained in water long term unless you are using a hydroponic solution. However, you can root the little plantlets and transfer them to soil once the root system is vigorous.
Can You Grow Spider Plants in Water?
Many houseplants are easy to grow in water for a period of time, such as Pothos and spider plants, Taking cuttings or offsets is an easy way to propagate a favorite plant. These cuttings root quickly in just a glass of water. Once rooting is established, the new plant needs nutrients for future development.
Plain old water is unlikely to sustain the cutting for very long. Key nutrients can be derived from fertilizer; however, a risk of root burn from built up salts is a potential result. Growing a spider plant in water is a first step to starting a new plant but not a sustainable system. Spider plants produce little tufted growths at the end of their stems. These can be taken off the main plant and allowed to grow roots as separate plants. The best way to propagate the plant is to cut the plantlet from the stolon with clean, sharp scissors. Use demineralized water or let your tap water sit for a day before placing the plantlet in the liquid. Fill a jar or glass with this non-chlorinated water and set the cutting into the container with the bulk of its leaves outside the liquid. Place the cutting in indirect light until it has developed roots. This is a fairly quick process. Frequent water changes are essential to good spider plant water cultivation.
Spider Plant Water Cultivation
No fertilizer will be necessary as the little plant develops roots. However, once a good network of roots have formed, the plant will have needs. You may choose to use a liquid fertilizer such as fish food or diluted houseplant food. Feed the cutting every month, but be careful to change the water every week to prevent salt build up. Leaving rooted spider plants in water can be capricious. Without support, the leaves may be submerged in the water, which can rot them. Additionally, the stems will be limp and may not produce more growth. A better option than growing a spider plant in water is to transplant the plantlet into a growing medium of soil. Leaving rooted spider plants in water limits their growth potential. If you are bound and determined to keep your plants suspended in water, use a pair of chopsticks or skewers to help keep the foliage from dangling in the liquid. The only part you want in the water is the root system.
Change the water frequently and avoid tap water. Rainwater is a good option to protect sensitive roots from overly acidic or mineralized solutions. Remove the rooted plants and place a thick layer of washed pebbles at the bottom of your container. This will give the roots something to hang onto after you reintroduce the plant to the glass. Continue to fertilize monthly, but flush the system weekly to prevent the water from going stagnant and building up salt. If you see any yellowing, remove the plant, rinse the root system and put the roots into good planting soil. Your plant will be happy you did and the resulting maintenance will be greatly reduced.
Can You Grow Spider Plants in Water?
Many houseplants are easy to grow in water for a period of time, such as Pothos and spider plants, Taking cuttings or offsets is an easy way to propagate a favorite plant. These cuttings root quickly in just a glass of water. Once rooting is established, the new plant needs nutrients for future development.
Plain old water is unlikely to sustain the cutting for very long. Key nutrients can be derived from fertilizer; however, a risk of root burn from built up salts is a potential result. Growing a spider plant in water is a first step to starting a new plant but not a sustainable system. Spider plants produce little tufted growths at the end of their stems. These can be taken off the main plant and allowed to grow roots as separate plants. The best way to propagate the plant is to cut the plantlet from the stolon with clean, sharp scissors. Use demineralized water or let your tap water sit for a day before placing the plantlet in the liquid. Fill a jar or glass with this non-chlorinated water and set the cutting into the container with the bulk of its leaves outside the liquid. Place the cutting in indirect light until it has developed roots. This is a fairly quick process. Frequent water changes are essential to good spider plant water cultivation.
Spider Plant Water Cultivation
No fertilizer will be necessary as the little plant develops roots. However, once a good network of roots have formed, the plant will have needs. You may choose to use a liquid fertilizer such as fish food or diluted houseplant food. Feed the cutting every month, but be careful to change the water every week to prevent salt build up. Leaving rooted spider plants in water can be capricious. Without support, the leaves may be submerged in the water, which can rot them. Additionally, the stems will be limp and may not produce more growth. A better option than growing a spider plant in water is to transplant the plantlet into a growing medium of soil. Leaving rooted spider plants in water limits their growth potential. If you are bound and determined to keep your plants suspended in water, use a pair of chopsticks or skewers to help keep the foliage from dangling in the liquid. The only part you want in the water is the root system.
Change the water frequently and avoid tap water. Rainwater is a good option to protect sensitive roots from overly acidic or mineralized solutions. Remove the rooted plants and place a thick layer of washed pebbles at the bottom of your container. This will give the roots something to hang onto after you reintroduce the plant to the glass. Continue to fertilize monthly, but flush the system weekly to prevent the water from going stagnant and building up salt. If you see any yellowing, remove the plant, rinse the root system and put the roots into good planting soil. Your plant will be happy you did and the resulting maintenance will be greatly reduced.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Fungus gnats on spider plants are definitely an annoyance, but the pests, also known as soil gnats or dark-winged fungus gnats, typically cause little damage to indoor plants. However, if you’re tired of spider plant fungus gnats terrorizing your prized plant, help is on the way.
Do Fungus Gnats Harm Spider Plants?
Fungus gnats are attracted to spider plants and other indoor plants because they like organic soil and warm, humid conditions. Fungus gnats are nuisances but they generally don’t harm plants. However, certain species of fungus gnats lay eggs in the soil, where the larvae feed on the roots or, in some cases, may even burrow into the leaves and stems. This is when some type of fungus gnat control is needed, as the larvae can be harmful in large numbers, and may damage plants or stunt plant growth. Young plants, as well as seedlings or newly propagated cuttings are most susceptible. An adult fungus gnat lives only a few days, but a female can lay up to 200 eggs during her short lifespan. Larvae hatch in about four days and feed for a couple of weeks before pupating. After another three of four days, they emerge as the next generation of flying spider plant gnats.
Fungus Gnat Control on Spider Plants
If you are looking for ways to control annoying soil gnats in your spider plants, the following tips should help: Move infested plants away from healthy plants. Be careful not to overwater, as fungal gnats like to lay eggs in damp potting mix. If your spider plant is infested, allow the top 2 to 3 inches to dry. Always pour out any standing water remaining in the drainage tray. Repot a severely infested spider plant into a clean container with fresh potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole. Yellow sticky traps are an effective way to catch adult fungus gnats before they have an opportunity to lay eggs. Cut the traps into small squares and attach the squares to wooden or plastic sticks, then insert the sticks into the soil. Change the traps every few days.
Apply B-ti (bacillus thuringiensis israelensis). The bacterial insecticide, which is different from regular Bt, is available in products such as Gnatrol or Mosquito Bits. Control is temporary and you may need to reapply B-ti every five days or so. Some people find that homemade solutions are effective for fungus gnats on spider plants. For example, fill small jars halfway with vinegar and a drop or two of liquid dish soap, then poke several holes in the lid (large enough for adult flies to enter). The flies, attracted to the vinegar, fly into the trap and drown. You can also place several slices of raw potatoes on the soil surface. Lift the slices after about four hours to check for larvae. This solution is probably most effective when used in conjunction with other fungus gnat control techniques. If all else fails, Apply a pyrethrin insecticide to the soil surface. Although pyrethrin is a lower toxicity product, it’s still important to use and store the insecticide strictly according to label recommendations. It’s a good idea to apply the insecticide outdoors, then wait a day before bringing the spider plant back inside.
Do Fungus Gnats Harm Spider Plants?
Fungus gnats are attracted to spider plants and other indoor plants because they like organic soil and warm, humid conditions. Fungus gnats are nuisances but they generally don’t harm plants. However, certain species of fungus gnats lay eggs in the soil, where the larvae feed on the roots or, in some cases, may even burrow into the leaves and stems. This is when some type of fungus gnat control is needed, as the larvae can be harmful in large numbers, and may damage plants or stunt plant growth. Young plants, as well as seedlings or newly propagated cuttings are most susceptible. An adult fungus gnat lives only a few days, but a female can lay up to 200 eggs during her short lifespan. Larvae hatch in about four days and feed for a couple of weeks before pupating. After another three of four days, they emerge as the next generation of flying spider plant gnats.
Fungus Gnat Control on Spider Plants
If you are looking for ways to control annoying soil gnats in your spider plants, the following tips should help: Move infested plants away from healthy plants. Be careful not to overwater, as fungal gnats like to lay eggs in damp potting mix. If your spider plant is infested, allow the top 2 to 3 inches to dry. Always pour out any standing water remaining in the drainage tray. Repot a severely infested spider plant into a clean container with fresh potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole. Yellow sticky traps are an effective way to catch adult fungus gnats before they have an opportunity to lay eggs. Cut the traps into small squares and attach the squares to wooden or plastic sticks, then insert the sticks into the soil. Change the traps every few days.
Apply B-ti (bacillus thuringiensis israelensis). The bacterial insecticide, which is different from regular Bt, is available in products such as Gnatrol or Mosquito Bits. Control is temporary and you may need to reapply B-ti every five days or so. Some people find that homemade solutions are effective for fungus gnats on spider plants. For example, fill small jars halfway with vinegar and a drop or two of liquid dish soap, then poke several holes in the lid (large enough for adult flies to enter). The flies, attracted to the vinegar, fly into the trap and drown. You can also place several slices of raw potatoes on the soil surface. Lift the slices after about four hours to check for larvae. This solution is probably most effective when used in conjunction with other fungus gnat control techniques. If all else fails, Apply a pyrethrin insecticide to the soil surface. Although pyrethrin is a lower toxicity product, it’s still important to use and store the insecticide strictly according to label recommendations. It’s a good idea to apply the insecticide outdoors, then wait a day before bringing the spider plant back inside.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants are very popular houseplants, and for good reason. They have a very unique look, with small little plantlets dangling on the ends of long stalks like spiders. They’re also extremely forgiving and easy to take care of – they don’t require much at all in the way of special care. Sometimes, however, you may encounter spider plant problems. Wilting spider plants are not uncommon, though they’re usually easy to cure. Keep reading to learn more about what to do when your spider plant looks wilted.
Why a Spider Plant Looks Wilted
So if you’re asking. “Why is my spider plant wilting,” you’ll need to do a bit of troubleshooting. When spider plant leaves look droopy, it can mean one of several things.
Water – One obvious problem is improper watering. Spider plants need a good amount of watering during the summer – the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Overwatering can also cause problems, however, with wilting and yellowing plants. Don’t let the soil get soggy in the summer, and in the winter let it dry out between light waterings. Light – The wrong amount of light or heat can also result in wilting spider plants. Spider plants do best in bright but indirect sunlight, like in a south-facing window or a space outside that receives less than 6 hours of sunlight. Overheating, a problem that often comes with too much sun, can also cause wilting spider plants.
If your spider plant has been drooping in bright direct sunlight, give it a good soak in a bucket of water for 15 minutes, then move it to a shadier, cooler spot. Of course, spider plants do need some sunlight. If your plant is wilting in full shade or far from a window indoors, move it to a sunnier spot and see if it perks up. Fertilizer – If your spider plant leaves look droopy, it may also be a problem with soil quality. You should feed your spider plant with a balanced fertilizer every other week in the summer and less frequently in winter.
Repotting – If your spider plant looks wilted and you can see roots coming out of the drainage holes, your plant is outgrowing its pot. Transplant it to a bigger pot, and water and feed it well. Spider plants can be a little fussy about water and light requirements, but they’re also very durable. If you notice your plant wilting and act to fix it, it should bounce back with no problem.
Why a Spider Plant Looks Wilted
So if you’re asking. “Why is my spider plant wilting,” you’ll need to do a bit of troubleshooting. When spider plant leaves look droopy, it can mean one of several things.
Water – One obvious problem is improper watering. Spider plants need a good amount of watering during the summer – the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Overwatering can also cause problems, however, with wilting and yellowing plants. Don’t let the soil get soggy in the summer, and in the winter let it dry out between light waterings. Light – The wrong amount of light or heat can also result in wilting spider plants. Spider plants do best in bright but indirect sunlight, like in a south-facing window or a space outside that receives less than 6 hours of sunlight. Overheating, a problem that often comes with too much sun, can also cause wilting spider plants.
If your spider plant has been drooping in bright direct sunlight, give it a good soak in a bucket of water for 15 minutes, then move it to a shadier, cooler spot. Of course, spider plants do need some sunlight. If your plant is wilting in full shade or far from a window indoors, move it to a sunnier spot and see if it perks up. Fertilizer – If your spider plant leaves look droopy, it may also be a problem with soil quality. You should feed your spider plant with a balanced fertilizer every other week in the summer and less frequently in winter.
Repotting – If your spider plant looks wilted and you can see roots coming out of the drainage holes, your plant is outgrowing its pot. Transplant it to a bigger pot, and water and feed it well. Spider plants can be a little fussy about water and light requirements, but they’re also very durable. If you notice your plant wilting and act to fix it, it should bounce back with no problem.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants form from thick tubers with a tangled root mass. They are native to tropical South Africa where they thrive in hot conditions. A spider plant with swollen roots may be pot bound, require more soil or showing evidence of a strange adaptation found in these and many other plants. A quick repotting should determine which the case is. As long as the tubers and roots are healthy, the plant is in no danger and will thrive.
Yes, a Spider Plant Has Tubers
Spider plants are old-fashioned indoor plants in the lily family, Liliaceae. These plants have been handed down from generation to generation and are important heritage plants to many families. The spiderettes that form on the ends of the spider plant stolons can be divided away and started as new plants. Thick roots will form quickly on the spiderettes, even if they are taken from the mother. However, a mature spider plant with swollen roots may also indicate a unique storage organ has formed on your plant.
Spider plants form dense, fleshy clusters of tubers. These are the source of the shoots and leaves and are companions of the root system. Tubers are white, smooth, twisting masses which may push to the surface of the soil. If most of the tuber mass is under the soil, one or two visible tubers shouldn’t cause the plant any harm.
When a spider plant has tubers in numbers that are highly visible, it may be time for a new pot or simply a topping of good soil. Over time, watering can flush some of the soil from the container making the level low. When repotting, wash the thick spider plant roots gently before nestling them into the soil.
The spiderettes on the ends of spider plant stolons will form fat, roots. This is natural and, in the wild, the babies would simply root a bit away from the mother. In this way, the plant spreads vegetatively. Sometimes, stressed plants can form tuber-like water storage organs. This is a natural adaptation and useful in their native region.
Other organs which appear to be tubers are the fruit. It is very unusual for a spider plant to flower and even more unusual for them to produce fruit, as it is usually aborted. If the plant produces fruit, it will appear as leather, 3-lobed capsules.
Are Spider Plant Roots Edible?
Spider plants are in the lily family and closely related to daylilies, whose roots are edible. Are spider plant roots edible? There seems to be some evidence that the tubers are not toxic but can cause problems in small animals in large doses. Of course, almost anything can be toxic in huge amounts as compared to body size. It’s probably wise to leave the tubers untouched and enjoy the plant, but if you are wildly curious, check with your local poison control center to verify that the plant is not on the list of concerns. The beauty of the plant will endure more surely if you leave those thick spider plant roots and tubers alone.
Yes, a Spider Plant Has Tubers
Spider plants are old-fashioned indoor plants in the lily family, Liliaceae. These plants have been handed down from generation to generation and are important heritage plants to many families. The spiderettes that form on the ends of the spider plant stolons can be divided away and started as new plants. Thick roots will form quickly on the spiderettes, even if they are taken from the mother. However, a mature spider plant with swollen roots may also indicate a unique storage organ has formed on your plant.
Spider plants form dense, fleshy clusters of tubers. These are the source of the shoots and leaves and are companions of the root system. Tubers are white, smooth, twisting masses which may push to the surface of the soil. If most of the tuber mass is under the soil, one or two visible tubers shouldn’t cause the plant any harm.
When a spider plant has tubers in numbers that are highly visible, it may be time for a new pot or simply a topping of good soil. Over time, watering can flush some of the soil from the container making the level low. When repotting, wash the thick spider plant roots gently before nestling them into the soil.
The spiderettes on the ends of spider plant stolons will form fat, roots. This is natural and, in the wild, the babies would simply root a bit away from the mother. In this way, the plant spreads vegetatively. Sometimes, stressed plants can form tuber-like water storage organs. This is a natural adaptation and useful in their native region.
Other organs which appear to be tubers are the fruit. It is very unusual for a spider plant to flower and even more unusual for them to produce fruit, as it is usually aborted. If the plant produces fruit, it will appear as leather, 3-lobed capsules.
Are Spider Plant Roots Edible?
Spider plants are in the lily family and closely related to daylilies, whose roots are edible. Are spider plant roots edible? There seems to be some evidence that the tubers are not toxic but can cause problems in small animals in large doses. Of course, almost anything can be toxic in huge amounts as compared to body size. It’s probably wise to leave the tubers untouched and enjoy the plant, but if you are wildly curious, check with your local poison control center to verify that the plant is not on the list of concerns. The beauty of the plant will endure more surely if you leave those thick spider plant roots and tubers alone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants are very popular and easy to grow houseplants. They’re known best for their spiderettes, little miniature versions of themselves that sprout from long stalks and hang down just like spiders on silk. The interesting spiderettes often overshadow the fact that spider plants bloom, producing delicate white flowers along these stalks. When pollinated, these flowers make seeds that can be harvested and grown into new plants. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow a spider plant from seed.
Harvesting Spider Plant Seeds
Do spider plants have seeds? Yes. Your spider plant should bloom naturally, but it will need to be pollinated in order to produce seeds. You can do this yourself by gently brushing a cotton swab against one flower after the other, or you can simply put your plant outside to allow insects to pollinate it naturally. After the flowers have faded, you should see bumpy green seed pods appear in their place. Harvesting spider plant seeds is easy, and mostly involves waiting. Allow the seed pods to dry on the stalk. Once they’re dry, they should split open naturally and drop their seeds. You can place a piece of paper under the plant to collect the seeds when they fall, or you can break the dry pods off by hand and put them in a paper bag, where they should split open.
How to Grow a Spider Plant from Seed
When growing a spider plant from seed, you should plant the seeds right away, as they don’t store well. Sow the seeds about ½ inch deep in good potting mix and keep them warm and moist. Spider plant seed germination usually takes a couple of weeks, so be patient. Allow your seedlings to grow many true leaves before transplanting them – growing spider plants from seed produces delicate seedlings that don’t like to be moved too soon.
Harvesting Spider Plant Seeds
Do spider plants have seeds? Yes. Your spider plant should bloom naturally, but it will need to be pollinated in order to produce seeds. You can do this yourself by gently brushing a cotton swab against one flower after the other, or you can simply put your plant outside to allow insects to pollinate it naturally. After the flowers have faded, you should see bumpy green seed pods appear in their place. Harvesting spider plant seeds is easy, and mostly involves waiting. Allow the seed pods to dry on the stalk. Once they’re dry, they should split open naturally and drop their seeds. You can place a piece of paper under the plant to collect the seeds when they fall, or you can break the dry pods off by hand and put them in a paper bag, where they should split open.
How to Grow a Spider Plant from Seed
When growing a spider plant from seed, you should plant the seeds right away, as they don’t store well. Sow the seeds about ½ inch deep in good potting mix and keep them warm and moist. Spider plant seed germination usually takes a couple of weeks, so be patient. Allow your seedlings to grow many true leaves before transplanting them – growing spider plants from seed produces delicate seedlings that don’t like to be moved too soon.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
One of the easiest and most common plants to grow is the spider plant. Spider plants have relatively few problems but occasionally cultural, pest or disease issues may arise. Yellow leaves on spider plants is a classic complaint but the cause can take some serious sleuthing to uncover. A close look at your plant and its growing conditions can start to unravel why you may see leaves turning yellow on spider plant.
Causes of Yellow Leaves on Spider Plants
Spider plants are charming houseplants that are often in the family for generations. The babies they produce will live on for years and produce spiderettes of their own. It is not unusual for many copies of an original spider plant to exist within a family or group due to these spiderettes. If you have the mama spider plant, it can be quite precious since it is the source of so many copies of itself. Yellowing spider plant leaves are, therefore, a concern and the cause needs to be identified and dealt with swiftly.
Environmental issues
One of the more common reasons you may see yellowing spider plant leaves is cultural. The plant doesn’t mind a cramped pot, but you should change the soil annually. If you fertilize monthly, the soil can build up toxic levels of salt. Leach the pot after fertilizing to prevent the salts from burning the roots. These houseplants thrive in many types of light but excess light can cause the leaves to burn and no light will gradually weaken the plant with signs showing up first with leaves turning yellow on spider plant. Plants can also get yellow leaves if they are moved to a new environment. It is simply a symptom of shock and will clear up once the plant adapts to its new surroundings. Excess minerals in the tap water can also cause discolored leaves. Use rainwater or distilled water when irrigating spider plants.
Disease
A spider plant with yellow leaves may also be suffering a nutritional deficiency, but if you fertilize and change the soil annually, it is more likely a disease. Check to see if the container the plant is in drains freely. Setting the pot on a saucer and keeping the roots wet can cause mold issues and possible root rot. Water your plant when the top half inch feels dry to the touch. Avoid overwatering but don’t let the plant dry out. Spider plants have few disease issues other than rust and root rot, but root rot can be serious. When you see spider plant leaves turning yellow and are an enthusiastic waterer, remove the plant from its container, rinse the roots, cut away any soft or moldy parts and repot in sterile potting medium.Pests
Indoor plants don’t get many pest issues unless they came from the nursery with bugs or you introduce a new houseplant that has hitchhikers. If you put your plant outside in summer, it will be exposed to many insect pests. Most common are sucking insects whose feeding behavior reduces the sap in the plant and can introduce diseases. Watch for mealybugs, aphids, scale, whiteflies and mites. Combat these with a good horticultural soap and by rinsing the leaves to remove the pests. Place the plant where air circulation is good after rinsing the leaves so that foliage can dry off quickly. Neem oil is also effective.
Causes of Yellow Leaves on Spider Plants
Spider plants are charming houseplants that are often in the family for generations. The babies they produce will live on for years and produce spiderettes of their own. It is not unusual for many copies of an original spider plant to exist within a family or group due to these spiderettes. If you have the mama spider plant, it can be quite precious since it is the source of so many copies of itself. Yellowing spider plant leaves are, therefore, a concern and the cause needs to be identified and dealt with swiftly.
Environmental issues
One of the more common reasons you may see yellowing spider plant leaves is cultural. The plant doesn’t mind a cramped pot, but you should change the soil annually. If you fertilize monthly, the soil can build up toxic levels of salt. Leach the pot after fertilizing to prevent the salts from burning the roots. These houseplants thrive in many types of light but excess light can cause the leaves to burn and no light will gradually weaken the plant with signs showing up first with leaves turning yellow on spider plant. Plants can also get yellow leaves if they are moved to a new environment. It is simply a symptom of shock and will clear up once the plant adapts to its new surroundings. Excess minerals in the tap water can also cause discolored leaves. Use rainwater or distilled water when irrigating spider plants.
Disease
A spider plant with yellow leaves may also be suffering a nutritional deficiency, but if you fertilize and change the soil annually, it is more likely a disease. Check to see if the container the plant is in drains freely. Setting the pot on a saucer and keeping the roots wet can cause mold issues and possible root rot. Water your plant when the top half inch feels dry to the touch. Avoid overwatering but don’t let the plant dry out. Spider plants have few disease issues other than rust and root rot, but root rot can be serious. When you see spider plant leaves turning yellow and are an enthusiastic waterer, remove the plant from its container, rinse the roots, cut away any soft or moldy parts and repot in sterile potting medium.Pests
Indoor plants don’t get many pest issues unless they came from the nursery with bugs or you introduce a new houseplant that has hitchhikers. If you put your plant outside in summer, it will be exposed to many insect pests. Most common are sucking insects whose feeding behavior reduces the sap in the plant and can introduce diseases. Watch for mealybugs, aphids, scale, whiteflies and mites. Combat these with a good horticultural soap and by rinsing the leaves to remove the pests. Place the plant where air circulation is good after rinsing the leaves so that foliage can dry off quickly. Neem oil is also effective.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Your spider plant has happily grown for years, seeming to like the neglect and being forgotten about. Then one day little white petals on your spider plant catch your eye. Bewildered, you wonder, “Is my spider plant growing flowers?” Spider plants do bloom sometimes. Read on to learn more.
Does a Spider Plant Flower?
Spider plants do occasionally develop small white flowers at the ends of their long arching stems. Many times these flowers are so short lived and inconspicuous that they go completely unnoticed. Flowers on spider plants can grow in a cluster or can be single, depending on the variety of spider plant. Spider plant flowers are very small and white, with three-six petals.
My Spider Plant is Growing Flowers
Sometimes, certain varieties of spider plants will send out frequent flowers as a young plant but then never flower again as the plant matures. However, most spider plants won’t flower until they are mature and slightly pot bound.
If your spider plant is not sending out flowers and plantlets, it could be too much sunlight or not enough sunlight. Spider plants prefer bright, but indirect light. Spider plants also need lighting that changes with the seasons, such as more light in summer and less light in winter. It’s also a good idea to rotate hanging spider plants occasionally to give them even light for even growth.
Spider plant flowers also may not develop if the spider plant is over fertilized. You may get very bushy green plants from too much fertilizer, but no flowers or plantlets. Use only a low dose fertilizer on spider plants like a 4-4-4 or 2-4-4. If you really want spider plant flowers, you can also try a bloom boosting fertilizer in spring.
If you’re lucky enough to have a blooming spider plant, then enjoy them. You can even collect seeds from the spent flowers once the green pods have turned brown.
Does a Spider Plant Flower?
Spider plants do occasionally develop small white flowers at the ends of their long arching stems. Many times these flowers are so short lived and inconspicuous that they go completely unnoticed. Flowers on spider plants can grow in a cluster or can be single, depending on the variety of spider plant. Spider plant flowers are very small and white, with three-six petals.
My Spider Plant is Growing Flowers
Sometimes, certain varieties of spider plants will send out frequent flowers as a young plant but then never flower again as the plant matures. However, most spider plants won’t flower until they are mature and slightly pot bound.
If your spider plant is not sending out flowers and plantlets, it could be too much sunlight or not enough sunlight. Spider plants prefer bright, but indirect light. Spider plants also need lighting that changes with the seasons, such as more light in summer and less light in winter. It’s also a good idea to rotate hanging spider plants occasionally to give them even light for even growth.
Spider plant flowers also may not develop if the spider plant is over fertilized. You may get very bushy green plants from too much fertilizer, but no flowers or plantlets. Use only a low dose fertilizer on spider plants like a 4-4-4 or 2-4-4. If you really want spider plant flowers, you can also try a bloom boosting fertilizer in spring.
If you’re lucky enough to have a blooming spider plant, then enjoy them. You can even collect seeds from the spent flowers once the green pods have turned brown.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) are very popular houseplants. They are great for beginners since they are tolerant and very difficult to kill. After you’ve had your plant for a few years, you may find that it has grown very large and isn’t doing well. If that happens, it’s time to start dividing spider plants. Can you split a spider plant? Yes, you can. Read on for information about when and how to divide a spider plant.
Spider Plant Division
Spider plants have tubular roots that grow rapidly. That’s why spider plants outgrow their pots so quickly—the roots just need more room to grow. If you’ve moved your spider into new, bigger pots several times, it should be thriving. If it is struggling, it may be time to think about spider plant division.
If you want to know when to split a spider plant, dividing spider plants is appropriate when the roots are crowded. Tightly packed roots may kill off some central root sections. When this happens, the plant’s leaves may die and brown even though you haven’t moved it or changed its care.
That’s because some of the roots are not able to do their job. Dividing spider plants pushes the plant’s “restart” button and gives it a new chance to grow happily.
How to Divide a Spider Plant
If you want to know how to divide a spider plant, it isn’t very difficult if you have an overview of the procedure.
When you are dividing spider plants, you’ll need a sharp garden knife, additional containers with good drain holes and potting soil. The idea is to slice off and throw away the damaged roots, then divide the healthy roots into several pieces.
Remove the plant from its pot and take a look at the roots. You may need to wash soil from the roots with the hose in order to see them well. Identify the damaged roots and cut them off. Decide how many plants can be started from the remaining roots. After that, cut the roots into several sections, one for each new plant.
Repot each section of the plant into its own pot. Plant each one in well-draining potting soil, then water each pot well.
Spider Plant Division
Spider plants have tubular roots that grow rapidly. That’s why spider plants outgrow their pots so quickly—the roots just need more room to grow. If you’ve moved your spider into new, bigger pots several times, it should be thriving. If it is struggling, it may be time to think about spider plant division.
If you want to know when to split a spider plant, dividing spider plants is appropriate when the roots are crowded. Tightly packed roots may kill off some central root sections. When this happens, the plant’s leaves may die and brown even though you haven’t moved it or changed its care.
That’s because some of the roots are not able to do their job. Dividing spider plants pushes the plant’s “restart” button and gives it a new chance to grow happily.
How to Divide a Spider Plant
If you want to know how to divide a spider plant, it isn’t very difficult if you have an overview of the procedure.
When you are dividing spider plants, you’ll need a sharp garden knife, additional containers with good drain holes and potting soil. The idea is to slice off and throw away the damaged roots, then divide the healthy roots into several pieces.
Remove the plant from its pot and take a look at the roots. You may need to wash soil from the roots with the hose in order to see them well. Identify the damaged roots and cut them off. Decide how many plants can be started from the remaining roots. After that, cut the roots into several sections, one for each new plant.
Repot each section of the plant into its own pot. Plant each one in well-draining potting soil, then water each pot well.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) are popular houseplants. Flexible about the level of care they receive and tolerant of abuse, they are perfect for gardening beginners. When should you repot a spider plant? These plants grow fast and the tuberous roots can crack open a flower pot. It’s important to start spider plant repotting before this happens. Read on for information on moving spider plants to larger pots.
Spider Plant Repotting
Repotting spider plants simply means moving spider plants to larger pots. It is often necessary to repot houseplants as they outgrow their pots, and spider plants tend to grow faster than most. Spider plants are native to the coastal areas of South America. The plant’s tuberous roots allows the species to thrive despite varying levels of precipitation in the wild. These same water-storing tuberous roots assist your spider houseplant to survive when you forget to water it for a few weeks. The roots grow fast, however. At some point before the roots crack open the pot, it’s time to think about spider plant repotting.
When Should You Repot a Spider Plant?
Spider plants grow best when they are slightly pot bound. However, the plants, roots included, grow fast. You’ll want to think about repotting spider plants before the plants crack their pots. Plants get different cultural care, so their growth rates vary. You just have to keep an eye on your spider plant. When you see roots showing above the soil, it is time to start moving spider plants to larger pots.
How Do You Repot a Spider Plant?
How do you repot a spider plant? Repotting a spider plant is fairly easy. You gently remove the plant from its current pot, rinse and trim its roots, then replant it in a larger pot. When you are moving spider plants to larger pots, make sure the new pots have good drainage holes. Spider plants don’t tolerate wet soil for very long. Use a general-purpose potting soil or soilless medium for spider plant repotting. Fill the bottom of the pot with soil, then place the plant’s roots in the soil. Keep adding soil and tucking it around the roots until all the roots are covered. Water the plant well and care as usual.
Spider Plant Repotting
Repotting spider plants simply means moving spider plants to larger pots. It is often necessary to repot houseplants as they outgrow their pots, and spider plants tend to grow faster than most. Spider plants are native to the coastal areas of South America. The plant’s tuberous roots allows the species to thrive despite varying levels of precipitation in the wild. These same water-storing tuberous roots assist your spider houseplant to survive when you forget to water it for a few weeks. The roots grow fast, however. At some point before the roots crack open the pot, it’s time to think about spider plant repotting.
When Should You Repot a Spider Plant?
Spider plants grow best when they are slightly pot bound. However, the plants, roots included, grow fast. You’ll want to think about repotting spider plants before the plants crack their pots. Plants get different cultural care, so their growth rates vary. You just have to keep an eye on your spider plant. When you see roots showing above the soil, it is time to start moving spider plants to larger pots.
How Do You Repot a Spider Plant?
How do you repot a spider plant? Repotting a spider plant is fairly easy. You gently remove the plant from its current pot, rinse and trim its roots, then replant it in a larger pot. When you are moving spider plants to larger pots, make sure the new pots have good drainage holes. Spider plants don’t tolerate wet soil for very long. Use a general-purpose potting soil or soilless medium for spider plant repotting. Fill the bottom of the pot with soil, then place the plant’s roots in the soil. Keep adding soil and tucking it around the roots until all the roots are covered. Water the plant well and care as usual.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Spider plants are very popular houseplants, and for good reason. They’re very hardy, growing best in indirect light with soil that’s allowed to dry out between waterings. In other words, they work well indoors with only moderate watering. And in exchange for little maintenance, they produce long green fronds and small plantlets or “babies,” little versions of themselves that hang down like spiders on silk. Because they require so little care and have such an interesting look, spider plant problems can be a real blow. Keep reading to learn more about caring for sick spider plants.
How to Treat Diseases of Spider Plant
Caring for sick spider plants shouldn’t be too difficult once you know what to look for. There really aren’t many common spider plant diseases. It is possible for them to suffer from fungal leaf rot and fungal root rot. Root rot can usually be traced to too much watering and/or soil that doesn’t drain freely enough.
In fact, most spider plant problems can be traced to environmental issues rather than disease. You may notice the tips of your spider plant’s leaves browning and drying. This is called leaf tip burn, and it is most likely caused by too much fertilizer or too little water. It may also be due to water that has too many minerals or salts in it. Try switching to bottled water and see if you notice a change.
When caring for sick spider plants, the best course of action is usually repotting. If the source of your problem is soil that is too dense or a root bound plant, this should help to clear things up. If your plant does happen to be suffering from a pathogen or bacteria in the soil, repotting it (with new, clean, sterile potting medium) should do the trick.
How to Treat Diseases of Spider Plant
Caring for sick spider plants shouldn’t be too difficult once you know what to look for. There really aren’t many common spider plant diseases. It is possible for them to suffer from fungal leaf rot and fungal root rot. Root rot can usually be traced to too much watering and/or soil that doesn’t drain freely enough.
In fact, most spider plant problems can be traced to environmental issues rather than disease. You may notice the tips of your spider plant’s leaves browning and drying. This is called leaf tip burn, and it is most likely caused by too much fertilizer or too little water. It may also be due to water that has too many minerals or salts in it. Try switching to bottled water and see if you notice a change.
When caring for sick spider plants, the best course of action is usually repotting. If the source of your problem is soil that is too dense or a root bound plant, this should help to clear things up. If your plant does happen to be suffering from a pathogen or bacteria in the soil, repotting it (with new, clean, sterile potting medium) should do the trick.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Spider plants are common indoor plants and can last generations. Their unfussy nature and lively “spiderettes” make an appealing and easy to grow houseplant. Spider plant problems are rare but are usually attributed to too much or too little moisture, excess fertilizer and occasionally insect pests can interfere with plant health. Treating plants with dark leaf tips starts with identifying the cause and then correcting any bad cultivation practices.
Spider Plant Leaves Turning Black
Spider plants are graceful foliage plants. They are from tropical and southern Africa and cannot tolerate freezing temperatures. In warm climates, they are sometimes grown outdoors but in most regions they are grown as houseplants. The plants thrive in almost any light, soil type and temperature provided there are no freezes. Therefore, when a spider plant has black tips, water may be the most influencing factor.
Water stress
One of the most common issues with spider plants is water stress. This can mean too much or too little moisture. Plants should not be standing in a saucer of water and they need high enough humidity to avoid leaf tip burn. Overwatering is a cause of spider plant leaves turning black or dark brown. The soil should dry out slightly between irrigations. And to add more fuel to the fire, spider plants should not be allowed to dry out completely. If there isn’t enough moisture, the foliage will start to discolor, first at the tips. Often, the cause is due to situating the plant by a furnace or because it needs to be repotted. Root bound plants cannot uptake moisture effectively but simply moving the plant to a larger container often increases moisture absorption.
Chemical/fertilizer buildup
Among the more common spider plant problems are necrotic leaf tips. The exact color of the discolored tip can be a clue to the issue. Reddish brown tips can indicate excess fluoride in your water, while tan to gray tips can mean the water is toxic with boron. If your municipality heavily treats water, treating plants with dark leaf tips may be as simple as using rainwater or filtered water to irrigate your plant. You can also use distilled water as an alternative. Flush the soil well with the new water to leach out the toxic substances and any excess fertilizer buildup. When a spider plant has black tips it is best to start with the water first and move on to other potential causes as this is an easy fix.
Diseases of spider plant
Disease is a big possibility of leaf tips turning black on spider plant. Bacterial leaf blight starts out as light lesions on the leaf tips which gradually turn brown. Bacterial leaf spot and tip burn occurs in hot, humid conditions and is characterized by yellowing in the leaf margin and browning edges. Increasing circulation, avoiding overhead watering and removing damaged foliage can help prevent the spread of these diseases. Plants also need superior care to withstand the stress of the disease and produce new healthy foliage. If the disease has progressed to the point it is affecting the stems, the plant is going to die and should be disposed of.
Spider Plant Leaves Turning Black
Spider plants are graceful foliage plants. They are from tropical and southern Africa and cannot tolerate freezing temperatures. In warm climates, they are sometimes grown outdoors but in most regions they are grown as houseplants. The plants thrive in almost any light, soil type and temperature provided there are no freezes. Therefore, when a spider plant has black tips, water may be the most influencing factor.
Water stress
One of the most common issues with spider plants is water stress. This can mean too much or too little moisture. Plants should not be standing in a saucer of water and they need high enough humidity to avoid leaf tip burn. Overwatering is a cause of spider plant leaves turning black or dark brown. The soil should dry out slightly between irrigations. And to add more fuel to the fire, spider plants should not be allowed to dry out completely. If there isn’t enough moisture, the foliage will start to discolor, first at the tips. Often, the cause is due to situating the plant by a furnace or because it needs to be repotted. Root bound plants cannot uptake moisture effectively but simply moving the plant to a larger container often increases moisture absorption.
Chemical/fertilizer buildup
Among the more common spider plant problems are necrotic leaf tips. The exact color of the discolored tip can be a clue to the issue. Reddish brown tips can indicate excess fluoride in your water, while tan to gray tips can mean the water is toxic with boron. If your municipality heavily treats water, treating plants with dark leaf tips may be as simple as using rainwater or filtered water to irrigate your plant. You can also use distilled water as an alternative. Flush the soil well with the new water to leach out the toxic substances and any excess fertilizer buildup. When a spider plant has black tips it is best to start with the water first and move on to other potential causes as this is an easy fix.
Diseases of spider plant
Disease is a big possibility of leaf tips turning black on spider plant. Bacterial leaf blight starts out as light lesions on the leaf tips which gradually turn brown. Bacterial leaf spot and tip burn occurs in hot, humid conditions and is characterized by yellowing in the leaf margin and browning edges. Increasing circulation, avoiding overhead watering and removing damaged foliage can help prevent the spread of these diseases. Plants also need superior care to withstand the stress of the disease and produce new healthy foliage. If the disease has progressed to the point it is affecting the stems, the plant is going to die and should be disposed of.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
If you are used to seeing spider plants in hanging baskets indoors, the idea of spider plants as ground cover may surprise you. However, spider plants in the wild grow in the ground. And those who live in warm climates have been using spider plant for ground cover for years. If you are considering spider plant ground cover, read on for all the information you’ll need about caring for spider plants in gardens.
Spider Plant Ground Cover
Spider plants, with their long, slender, trailing leaves, look a bit like green spiders. These are great plants for beginning gardeners since they are surprisingly easy going and very tolerant of less-than-perfect cultural care. Many people have a few spider plants indoors as potted or hanging-basket plants. But those who live in warmer climates like U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9b to 11 can grow these lush beauties in outdoor garden beds or as spider plant ground cover.
Using Spider Plant for Ground Cover
If you’ve ever owned a spider plant, you already know how fast they grow. In time, a plant often develops “babies” – plantlets that grow on the end of long stolons. Once these tiny spider plants touch soil, they develop roots. Spider plant babies can be snipped off the stolons and will grow as independent plants. In an outdoor setting, the babies can stay attached to the parent plant. They simply root, spreading the lush foliage into new territory.
Caring for Spider Plants in Gardens
If you’ve decided to use spider plants as ground cover, be sure you plant them in soil that drains well. They are very forgiving of many gardener sins, but they can’t thrive if their roots are in mud. On the other hand, you can plant them in sun or partial shade. The ideal outdoor location in hot climates is filtered sunshine. Irrigation is important, although precision is not necessary. Water when the surface of the soil is dry, but if you forget one week, the plants won’t die because of it. Their thick roots are made to survive varying amounts of available water. If you want to fertilize the plants, you can do so in spring and summer. If you don’t, spider plants will probably grow well anyway.
Spider Plant Ground Cover
Spider plants, with their long, slender, trailing leaves, look a bit like green spiders. These are great plants for beginning gardeners since they are surprisingly easy going and very tolerant of less-than-perfect cultural care. Many people have a few spider plants indoors as potted or hanging-basket plants. But those who live in warmer climates like U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9b to 11 can grow these lush beauties in outdoor garden beds or as spider plant ground cover.
Using Spider Plant for Ground Cover
If you’ve ever owned a spider plant, you already know how fast they grow. In time, a plant often develops “babies” – plantlets that grow on the end of long stolons. Once these tiny spider plants touch soil, they develop roots. Spider plant babies can be snipped off the stolons and will grow as independent plants. In an outdoor setting, the babies can stay attached to the parent plant. They simply root, spreading the lush foliage into new territory.
Caring for Spider Plants in Gardens
If you’ve decided to use spider plants as ground cover, be sure you plant them in soil that drains well. They are very forgiving of many gardener sins, but they can’t thrive if their roots are in mud. On the other hand, you can plant them in sun or partial shade. The ideal outdoor location in hot climates is filtered sunshine. Irrigation is important, although precision is not necessary. Water when the surface of the soil is dry, but if you forget one week, the plants won’t die because of it. Their thick roots are made to survive varying amounts of available water. If you want to fertilize the plants, you can do so in spring and summer. If you don’t, spider plants will probably grow well anyway.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The schefflera, or umbrella tree, can make a large and attractive accent in a living room, office, or other generous space. Propagating cuttings from schefflera plants is a simple and inexpensive way to create a collection of impressive plants for gifts or home décor. Like with many other bushy plants, schefflera plant cuttings will create a perfect clone of the parent plant, with no chance of mutations as you would encounter with planting seeds. Propagate your schefflera with cuttings and you’ll have a collection of plants healthy and growing within a month or so.
How Can I Root Schefflera Cuttings?
How can I root schefflera cuttings? Rooting a schefflera cutting is pretty easy. Clean a sharp knife with an alcohol pad to prevent any possible spread of bacteria to your plants. Clip off a stem near the base of the plant and wrap the cut end in a damp paper towel. Cut each leaf in half horizontally to reduce the amount of moisture it loses during the rooting process.
Fill a 6-inch pot with fresh potting soil. Poke a 2-inch hole in the soil with a pencil. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone powder, place it in the hole and gently pat the soil around the stem to secure it in place. Water the soil and place the pot in a place that gets steady light but not direct sunlight. The stem will begin to grow roots within a few weeks. When the plant begins to grow new green shoots on top, nip off the top of the shoots to encourage branching.
Additional Schefflera Plant Propagation
Rooting a schefflera cutting is not the only way to go about schefflera plant propagation. Some growers have better luck with layering when they want to produce one or two new plants. Layering creates new roots along the stem while it is still on the parent plant. Remove the bark in a ring around a flexible stem, near the end and below the leaves. Bend the stem down to force it into the soil in another nearby planter. Bury the cut part, but leave the leafy end above the soil. Hold the stem in place with a bent wire. Keep the soil moist and roots will form around the spot where you damaged the bark. Once new growth occurs, clip it from the original tree. If your stems aren’t long enough to bend into another pot, damage the bark in the same manner, then wrap the area in a clump of damp sphagnum moss. Cover the baseball-sized lump with plastic wrap, then secure it with tape. Roots will grow inside the moss. When you see them through the plastic, clip off the new plant below the plastic, remove the covering and plant it in a new pot.
How Can I Root Schefflera Cuttings?
How can I root schefflera cuttings? Rooting a schefflera cutting is pretty easy. Clean a sharp knife with an alcohol pad to prevent any possible spread of bacteria to your plants. Clip off a stem near the base of the plant and wrap the cut end in a damp paper towel. Cut each leaf in half horizontally to reduce the amount of moisture it loses during the rooting process.
Fill a 6-inch pot with fresh potting soil. Poke a 2-inch hole in the soil with a pencil. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone powder, place it in the hole and gently pat the soil around the stem to secure it in place. Water the soil and place the pot in a place that gets steady light but not direct sunlight. The stem will begin to grow roots within a few weeks. When the plant begins to grow new green shoots on top, nip off the top of the shoots to encourage branching.
Additional Schefflera Plant Propagation
Rooting a schefflera cutting is not the only way to go about schefflera plant propagation. Some growers have better luck with layering when they want to produce one or two new plants. Layering creates new roots along the stem while it is still on the parent plant. Remove the bark in a ring around a flexible stem, near the end and below the leaves. Bend the stem down to force it into the soil in another nearby planter. Bury the cut part, but leave the leafy end above the soil. Hold the stem in place with a bent wire. Keep the soil moist and roots will form around the spot where you damaged the bark. Once new growth occurs, clip it from the original tree. If your stems aren’t long enough to bend into another pot, damage the bark in the same manner, then wrap the area in a clump of damp sphagnum moss. Cover the baseball-sized lump with plastic wrap, then secure it with tape. Roots will grow inside the moss. When you see them through the plastic, clip off the new plant below the plastic, remove the covering and plant it in a new pot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Scheffleras are ornamental foliage plants. In most zones, they are only suitable as houseplants because they are extremely tender. The wide leaf clusters resemble the spokes of an umbrella and have given them the nickname, umbrella tree. Schefflera plants are remarkably tolerant houseplants and do well in a variety of situations; however, they are also prey to insect pests. Sticky Schefflera leaves are likely a symptom of some hitchhiking bugs that are sucking the life out of your prized plant. 
Why is my Schefflera Sticky?
Scheffleras have gorgeous,large glossy leaves arranged in a circle around a central stem. Each of the leaflets that make up the entire umbrella design can get up to 12 inches long in mature plants. Indoor plants benefit from having the leaves dusted and it is during this activity that you may notice something new on the plant — sticky stuff on Schefflera foliage. The culprits may be several sucking insect pests which deposit excrement called honeydew on their host plant’s foliage, creating sticky Schefflera leaves.
Look under the leaves and on the stems of a Schefflera with sticky substance on its leaves. The problem stems from very small insects that feed on the sap of the plant and slowly reduce its vigor. The honeydew leaves behind a shiny, sticky mess. You can wash off the honeydew and get rid of some of the bugs, but just a few left behind will quickly colonize and before you know it you will have a sticky Schefflera plant again. The most common culprits that cause sticky Schefflera leaves are aphids, mites or mealybugs. If you have an ant problem in the house, you may also notice ants in and around the plant. This is because ants “farm” aphids to keep them around for the honeydew, which is an ant food favorite.
What to Do About Sticky Schefflera Leaves
Any Schefflera with sticky substance on the leaves can be initially treated by taking it outdoors and blasting the leaves with water. Aphids rinse off the leaves and this treatment usually works well if you follow up at the first sign of the pests. Systemic treatments formulated for houseplants work to prevent the pests and subsequent sticky stuff on Schefflera. It translocates from roots to stem to leaves, so that the insects intake it through their feeding activity. A kinder, gentler solution when children and pets are present is Neem oil. This natural oil comes from a tree native to India. It has both toxic and repellent properties to many insects but is safe for use in the home.
Recovery for a Sticky Schefflera Plant
After a successful treatment and all signs of insect pests are gone, it is time to assess the damage. If your plant was dropping leaves, discoloring or failing to produce new growth, it is likely the insects damaged its health to some degree. That means you need to baby a plant that had been affected. Once the Schefflera with sticky substance has been cleaned up and the pests have been eradicated, ill health may continue. Give the plant a gentle fertilizer every two weeks such as diluted compost tea or diluted fish or seaweed fertilizer. Water the plant regularly when the top 3 inches of soil are dry. Repot plants that have poor soil, using a good potting soil with organic amendment. Over the course of a few weeks you should see improvement in your plant and it will be its old glossy self again.
Why is my Schefflera Sticky?
Scheffleras have gorgeous,large glossy leaves arranged in a circle around a central stem. Each of the leaflets that make up the entire umbrella design can get up to 12 inches long in mature plants. Indoor plants benefit from having the leaves dusted and it is during this activity that you may notice something new on the plant — sticky stuff on Schefflera foliage. The culprits may be several sucking insect pests which deposit excrement called honeydew on their host plant’s foliage, creating sticky Schefflera leaves.
Look under the leaves and on the stems of a Schefflera with sticky substance on its leaves. The problem stems from very small insects that feed on the sap of the plant and slowly reduce its vigor. The honeydew leaves behind a shiny, sticky mess. You can wash off the honeydew and get rid of some of the bugs, but just a few left behind will quickly colonize and before you know it you will have a sticky Schefflera plant again. The most common culprits that cause sticky Schefflera leaves are aphids, mites or mealybugs. If you have an ant problem in the house, you may also notice ants in and around the plant. This is because ants “farm” aphids to keep them around for the honeydew, which is an ant food favorite.
What to Do About Sticky Schefflera Leaves
Any Schefflera with sticky substance on the leaves can be initially treated by taking it outdoors and blasting the leaves with water. Aphids rinse off the leaves and this treatment usually works well if you follow up at the first sign of the pests. Systemic treatments formulated for houseplants work to prevent the pests and subsequent sticky stuff on Schefflera. It translocates from roots to stem to leaves, so that the insects intake it through their feeding activity. A kinder, gentler solution when children and pets are present is Neem oil. This natural oil comes from a tree native to India. It has both toxic and repellent properties to many insects but is safe for use in the home.
Recovery for a Sticky Schefflera Plant
After a successful treatment and all signs of insect pests are gone, it is time to assess the damage. If your plant was dropping leaves, discoloring or failing to produce new growth, it is likely the insects damaged its health to some degree. That means you need to baby a plant that had been affected. Once the Schefflera with sticky substance has been cleaned up and the pests have been eradicated, ill health may continue. Give the plant a gentle fertilizer every two weeks such as diluted compost tea or diluted fish or seaweed fertilizer. Water the plant regularly when the top 3 inches of soil are dry. Repot plants that have poor soil, using a good potting soil with organic amendment. Over the course of a few weeks you should see improvement in your plant and it will be its old glossy self again.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Scheffleras are very popular house plants that produce big dark or variegated palmate leaves (leaves made up of several smaller leaflets growing out of a single point). Hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11, they are often kept in pots indoors in colder areas. However, life indoors in a pot can be hard on a plant, and can often result in leggy, unhealthy looking shapes. That’s when it’s time to prune. Keep reading to learn more about trimming schefflera houseplants and how to prune a schefflera.
Trimming Schefflera Houseplants
The tropical schefflera plant, also known as umbrella plant or tree, can grow quite large outdoors in the right climate. Indoors, this popular houseplant can be trimmed and maintained at a manageable size. Pruning schefflera plants is easy and nothing that should prevent you from enjoying this beautiful plant in your home.
If you have ever seen a native schefflera outdoors, you may be surprised to find how large they grow. When given natural light, water, and space, they can grow to be 40 feet (12 meters) tall. Indoors, they will only grow to about 8 feet (2.5 meters).
You can manage the height of your umbrella plant by trimming and shaping it. Pruning schefflera plants is not strictly necessary, but if you want a pretty umbrella shape and a certain height, or if your plant has gotten out of control, you can easily trim it. Scheffleras can have a single trunk, but they tend to have multiple stalks that branch off as the plant gets higher. If your plant isn’t getting enough light or nutrients, or if it’s just in too small of a pot, some of those stalks might get long and leggy. They might flop over under their own weight or produce leaves only at the ends. This is a good indication that it’s time for schefflera plant pruning. Pruning a schefflera plant is not especially hard – if you see a long and unhealthy looking stalk, cut it back! Cut any bad looking stalks down to 3 or 4 inches high. This should encourage new growth and make the plant more compact and dense. It may also help to move the plant to a sunnier window or transplant to a bigger pot.
How to Prune a Schefflera Plant
If you have just bought a schefflera from the nursery, it is probably 2 to 3 feet (about 1 meter) tall. As it grows, you can prune it to help maintain the shape you want and to prevent it from getting any taller than you want it to be. For indoor plants, this can be done at any time of year. Use a sharp pair of pruners or a knife and make cuts just above leaves. Make cuts to break up denser clumps and to make the plant appear more even. Strategically pruning a schefflera plant can encourage it to grow out as well as up and make for a denser, more bushy shape. Trimming schefflera houseplants can be achieved by cutting off the tops of the tallest stalks about an inch above the spot where the next leaf down is attached. This will encourage more growth outward from the stalk instead of upward.
Cutting Overgrown Scheffleras
You can also prune your schefflera if it has gotten overgrown. Make cuts to shape it and to thin it out so that light can get in and stimulate leaf growth on any bare branches. If you have a “leggy” stem, or a main stem that lacks leaf growth, you can cut it back to about six inches (5 cm.). It may seem severe, but this stem’s growth will catch up to any others. The reason it went bare may be lack of light. Be sure your umbrella plant is in a spot where it gets a lot of indirect light. Rotate it occasionally to even out leaf growth.
Trimming Schefflera Houseplants
The tropical schefflera plant, also known as umbrella plant or tree, can grow quite large outdoors in the right climate. Indoors, this popular houseplant can be trimmed and maintained at a manageable size. Pruning schefflera plants is easy and nothing that should prevent you from enjoying this beautiful plant in your home.
If you have ever seen a native schefflera outdoors, you may be surprised to find how large they grow. When given natural light, water, and space, they can grow to be 40 feet (12 meters) tall. Indoors, they will only grow to about 8 feet (2.5 meters).
You can manage the height of your umbrella plant by trimming and shaping it. Pruning schefflera plants is not strictly necessary, but if you want a pretty umbrella shape and a certain height, or if your plant has gotten out of control, you can easily trim it. Scheffleras can have a single trunk, but they tend to have multiple stalks that branch off as the plant gets higher. If your plant isn’t getting enough light or nutrients, or if it’s just in too small of a pot, some of those stalks might get long and leggy. They might flop over under their own weight or produce leaves only at the ends. This is a good indication that it’s time for schefflera plant pruning. Pruning a schefflera plant is not especially hard – if you see a long and unhealthy looking stalk, cut it back! Cut any bad looking stalks down to 3 or 4 inches high. This should encourage new growth and make the plant more compact and dense. It may also help to move the plant to a sunnier window or transplant to a bigger pot.
How to Prune a Schefflera Plant
If you have just bought a schefflera from the nursery, it is probably 2 to 3 feet (about 1 meter) tall. As it grows, you can prune it to help maintain the shape you want and to prevent it from getting any taller than you want it to be. For indoor plants, this can be done at any time of year. Use a sharp pair of pruners or a knife and make cuts just above leaves. Make cuts to break up denser clumps and to make the plant appear more even. Strategically pruning a schefflera plant can encourage it to grow out as well as up and make for a denser, more bushy shape. Trimming schefflera houseplants can be achieved by cutting off the tops of the tallest stalks about an inch above the spot where the next leaf down is attached. This will encourage more growth outward from the stalk instead of upward.
Cutting Overgrown Scheffleras
You can also prune your schefflera if it has gotten overgrown. Make cuts to shape it and to thin it out so that light can get in and stimulate leaf growth on any bare branches. If you have a “leggy” stem, or a main stem that lacks leaf growth, you can cut it back to about six inches (5 cm.). It may seem severe, but this stem’s growth will catch up to any others. The reason it went bare may be lack of light. Be sure your umbrella plant is in a spot where it gets a lot of indirect light. Rotate it occasionally to even out leaf growth.
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