文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
For spring and summer color and ease of care, add red valerian plants (also known as Jupiter’s beard) to the full sun herb garden or flower bed. Botanically called Ceranthus, Jupiter’s beard adds tall and bushy color in the landscape and is ideal as an easy-care background border plant.
Ceranthus Jupiter’s Beard Plant
The Jupiter’s beard plant reaches 3 feet in height, often the same in width, and displays profuse panicles of fragrant red flowers. Colors of white and pink are found in some cultivars of the wild red valerian plants. Native to the Mediterranean, the Jupiter’s beard has successfully transitioned to many areas of the United States and attracts butterflies and the all-important pollinators to the area in which it is planted. Leaves and roots of growing Jupiter’s beard are edible and may be enjoyed in salads. As with all edible plants, avoid eating chemically treated specimens.
Growing Jupiter’s Beard
Jupiter’s beard plant can be propagated from cuttings in summer and often re-seeds the same year. Seeds of Ceranthus Jupiter’s beard planted in early spring will flower the same year, in spring to early summer. This plant flourishes in many types of soil, including poor soil, as long as it is well draining. Red valerian plants also enjoy a sunny location in the garden but will tolerate some partial shade as well.
Care of Red Valerian Plants/Jupiter’s Beard
The care of red valerian is minimal, making it an enjoyable specimen in the garden. Part of its care includes thinning seedlings to a manageable level, depending on how many more of the Jupiter’s beard plant you want in the flower bed. Deadhead flowers of growing Jupiter’s beard before seeds form to decrease re-seeding. Care of red valerian includes clipping the plant back by one-third in late summer. After this renewal pruning, it is not necessary to prune the Jupiter’s beard plant again until spring. Other care of red valerian includes watering when the soil is extremely dry, but when rainfall is average, additional water is usually not necessary.
Ceranthus Jupiter’s Beard Plant
The Jupiter’s beard plant reaches 3 feet in height, often the same in width, and displays profuse panicles of fragrant red flowers. Colors of white and pink are found in some cultivars of the wild red valerian plants. Native to the Mediterranean, the Jupiter’s beard has successfully transitioned to many areas of the United States and attracts butterflies and the all-important pollinators to the area in which it is planted. Leaves and roots of growing Jupiter’s beard are edible and may be enjoyed in salads. As with all edible plants, avoid eating chemically treated specimens.
Growing Jupiter’s Beard
Jupiter’s beard plant can be propagated from cuttings in summer and often re-seeds the same year. Seeds of Ceranthus Jupiter’s beard planted in early spring will flower the same year, in spring to early summer. This plant flourishes in many types of soil, including poor soil, as long as it is well draining. Red valerian plants also enjoy a sunny location in the garden but will tolerate some partial shade as well.
Care of Red Valerian Plants/Jupiter’s Beard
The care of red valerian is minimal, making it an enjoyable specimen in the garden. Part of its care includes thinning seedlings to a manageable level, depending on how many more of the Jupiter’s beard plant you want in the flower bed. Deadhead flowers of growing Jupiter’s beard before seeds form to decrease re-seeding. Care of red valerian includes clipping the plant back by one-third in late summer. After this renewal pruning, it is not necessary to prune the Jupiter’s beard plant again until spring. Other care of red valerian includes watering when the soil is extremely dry, but when rainfall is average, additional water is usually not necessary.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Thyme plants, like most woody herbs, do best when they are pruned regularly. Taking the time to trim thyme not only creates a nicer looking plant, but also helps improve the amount you can harvest from the plant. Keep reading to learn how to cut thyme so that it grows best for you.
When to Prune Thyme Plants
The right time to trim thyme will depend on the kind of pruning you plan on performing on the plant. There are four ways of pruning thyme plants and they are:
Hard Rejuvenation – Late fall after first frost
Light Rejuvenation – After blooming in the summer
Shaping – Spring
Harvesting – Anytime during active growth (spring and summer)
Let’s look at why and how to prune thyme in these different ways.
How to Prune Thyme
Pruning Thyme for Hard Rejuvenation
In most cases, thyme plants don’t need hard rejuvenation pruning because they are normally harvested on a regular basis and harvesting prevents the thyme plant from becoming too woody. Sometimes, a neglected thyme plant may need to be pruned back hard to remove woody growth and encourage tender, usable growth. Hard rejuvenation pruning normally take a few years to complete. In late fall, after the first frost, select one-third of the oldest and woodiest stems on your thyme plant. Using sharp, clean shears, cut these stems back by half. Repeat the process the next year until your thyme plant has returned to growing younger, more tender stems all over the plant.
Pruning Thyme for Light Rejuvenation
When you trim thyme for light rejuvenation, you are basically ensuring that your thyme plant doesn’t become too woody in the future. In late summer, after the thyme plant has flowered, select the one-third oldest stems on the plant. Using sharp, clean shears, cut these back by two-third. This should be done yearly for the best health of the plant.
Pruning Thyme for Shaping
All thyme, whether it is upright thyme or creeping thyme, tends to get a little wild looking if not shaped regularly. If you’re okay with your thyme getting a bit wild looking, you don’t need to cut your thyme to shape it. But, if you want a thyme plant that is a little more formal, you’ll want to shape your thyme plant yearly. In the spring, after new growth has started to appear, take a moment to picture how you would like your thyme plant to look. Keeping that shape in mind, use a sharp, clean pair of shears to trim the thyme plant in that shape. Don’t cut the thyme plant back more than one-third when shaping. If you need to cut back your thyme plant by more than one-third in order to achieve the shape that you would like, only do a one-third cut back each year until the desired shape of the thyme plant is achieved.
Cutting Thyme for Harvesting
Thyme can be cut at any time during the spring and summer to harvest. It is best though to stop harvesting thyme about three to four weeks before the first frost. This will allow the more tender stems on the thyme plant to harden off some before the cold comes and will make it so you have less dieback on the thyme plant over the winter.
When to Prune Thyme Plants
The right time to trim thyme will depend on the kind of pruning you plan on performing on the plant. There are four ways of pruning thyme plants and they are:
Hard Rejuvenation – Late fall after first frost
Light Rejuvenation – After blooming in the summer
Shaping – Spring
Harvesting – Anytime during active growth (spring and summer)
Let’s look at why and how to prune thyme in these different ways.
How to Prune Thyme
Pruning Thyme for Hard Rejuvenation
In most cases, thyme plants don’t need hard rejuvenation pruning because they are normally harvested on a regular basis and harvesting prevents the thyme plant from becoming too woody. Sometimes, a neglected thyme plant may need to be pruned back hard to remove woody growth and encourage tender, usable growth. Hard rejuvenation pruning normally take a few years to complete. In late fall, after the first frost, select one-third of the oldest and woodiest stems on your thyme plant. Using sharp, clean shears, cut these stems back by half. Repeat the process the next year until your thyme plant has returned to growing younger, more tender stems all over the plant.
Pruning Thyme for Light Rejuvenation
When you trim thyme for light rejuvenation, you are basically ensuring that your thyme plant doesn’t become too woody in the future. In late summer, after the thyme plant has flowered, select the one-third oldest stems on the plant. Using sharp, clean shears, cut these back by two-third. This should be done yearly for the best health of the plant.
Pruning Thyme for Shaping
All thyme, whether it is upright thyme or creeping thyme, tends to get a little wild looking if not shaped regularly. If you’re okay with your thyme getting a bit wild looking, you don’t need to cut your thyme to shape it. But, if you want a thyme plant that is a little more formal, you’ll want to shape your thyme plant yearly. In the spring, after new growth has started to appear, take a moment to picture how you would like your thyme plant to look. Keeping that shape in mind, use a sharp, clean pair of shears to trim the thyme plant in that shape. Don’t cut the thyme plant back more than one-third when shaping. If you need to cut back your thyme plant by more than one-third in order to achieve the shape that you would like, only do a one-third cut back each year until the desired shape of the thyme plant is achieved.
Cutting Thyme for Harvesting
Thyme can be cut at any time during the spring and summer to harvest. It is best though to stop harvesting thyme about three to four weeks before the first frost. This will allow the more tender stems on the thyme plant to harden off some before the cold comes and will make it so you have less dieback on the thyme plant over the winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing lemon thyme plants (Thymus x citriodus) are a lovely addition to an herb garden, rock garden or border or as container plants. A popular herb grown not only for its culinary uses but for its attractive foliage, lemon thyme plants can be planted to form a ground cover or among pavers along a path or patio. The tiny flowers are a bee attractor, aiding in the pollination of surrounding plants.
How to Grow Lemon Thyme Plants
Growing lemon thyme plants appear as a low growing evergreen shrub with small lemon scented foliage. They are an easy plant to grow with endless gastronomic uses in any dish requiring citrus and savory notes.
How to grow lemon thyme is pretty straightforward. This little Thymus variety will flourish in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, remaining an evergreen in zones 8 and 9. Plant lemon thyme plants in the spring in a full sun setting and space them 12 inches apart. These herbs enjoy well-drained soil and minimal irrigation.
Lemon Thyme Care
Attaining a height of 12 to 15 inches, this herb is extremely tolerant of poor soil and drought conditions. It is also resistant to deer and has no major insect or disease issues. So, lemon thyme care is as simple as planting in full sun and avoiding over watering or sitting in drenched soil, as it is prone to root rot. A hybrid thyme (T.vulgaris x T. pulegioides), lemon thyme is an erect woody based plant with a spreading habitat and thus, may need to be cut back in order to control the spread or remove unsightly woody stems. Lemon thyme plants will thrive when pruned and can even be trimmed into tiny hedges.
Harvesting Lemon Thyme
The strong lemon aroma of lemon thyme plants is at its apex just before the flowering of its tiny purple blooms. Lemon thyme’s flavor is at its peak, just as that of all herbs, in the morning when the essential oils of the plant are most abundant. Therefore, harvesting lemon thyme is best during the early morning hours of the day to reap maximum flavor. That said, any time you trim back or prune lemon thyme is a good time to use these aromatic leaves. The oils of lemon thyme plants also make an excellent mosquito repellent when crushed; useful when outside in the evening puttering in the garden. Lemon thyme is best used fresh. Chop lemon thyme leaves just before use and add at the very end of the cooking process before they lose flavor and color. Lemon thyme may be added to poultry, seafood, vegetable, marinades, stews, soups, sauces and stuffing while fresh sprigs of this herb make a lovely garnish. A beautiful varietal, golden lemon thyme adds a nice touch in the garden with its yellow-gold variegated foliage although it has a less intense lemon scent than its green counterpart.
How to Grow Lemon Thyme Plants
Growing lemon thyme plants appear as a low growing evergreen shrub with small lemon scented foliage. They are an easy plant to grow with endless gastronomic uses in any dish requiring citrus and savory notes.
How to grow lemon thyme is pretty straightforward. This little Thymus variety will flourish in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, remaining an evergreen in zones 8 and 9. Plant lemon thyme plants in the spring in a full sun setting and space them 12 inches apart. These herbs enjoy well-drained soil and minimal irrigation.
Lemon Thyme Care
Attaining a height of 12 to 15 inches, this herb is extremely tolerant of poor soil and drought conditions. It is also resistant to deer and has no major insect or disease issues. So, lemon thyme care is as simple as planting in full sun and avoiding over watering or sitting in drenched soil, as it is prone to root rot. A hybrid thyme (T.vulgaris x T. pulegioides), lemon thyme is an erect woody based plant with a spreading habitat and thus, may need to be cut back in order to control the spread or remove unsightly woody stems. Lemon thyme plants will thrive when pruned and can even be trimmed into tiny hedges.
Harvesting Lemon Thyme
The strong lemon aroma of lemon thyme plants is at its apex just before the flowering of its tiny purple blooms. Lemon thyme’s flavor is at its peak, just as that of all herbs, in the morning when the essential oils of the plant are most abundant. Therefore, harvesting lemon thyme is best during the early morning hours of the day to reap maximum flavor. That said, any time you trim back or prune lemon thyme is a good time to use these aromatic leaves. The oils of lemon thyme plants also make an excellent mosquito repellent when crushed; useful when outside in the evening puttering in the garden. Lemon thyme is best used fresh. Chop lemon thyme leaves just before use and add at the very end of the cooking process before they lose flavor and color. Lemon thyme may be added to poultry, seafood, vegetable, marinades, stews, soups, sauces and stuffing while fresh sprigs of this herb make a lovely garnish. A beautiful varietal, golden lemon thyme adds a nice touch in the garden with its yellow-gold variegated foliage although it has a less intense lemon scent than its green counterpart.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
There are plants you just want to touch and woolly thyme plants (Thymus pseudolanuginosus) are just one of them. Woolly thyme is a perennial herb, with medicinal and culinary uses in addition to ornamental use. Try growing woolly thyme in the cracks between paving stones, along a gravel path or as part of a xeriscape or drought tolerant garden. The herb doesn’t mind a bit of rough handling and can be trod upon with no ill effects. In fact, when stepped on, woolly thyme ground cover emits a pleasant fragrance. Here is more information on how to grow woolly thyme so your toes can enjoy the soft furriness and your nose the sweet scent of this magical little plant.
Woolly Thyme Plant Information
Thyme is one of the more hardy herbs perfect for hot sunny locations. Once established, it tolerates dry conditions and spreads slowly, eventually creating a thick mat of foliage. Tiny leaves on woolly thyme ground cover are green and often edged with gray to silver. In summer the plant adds a bonus and produces sweet little pink to purple flowers. The plants are low growing, rarely getting higher than 12 inches and spreading out to 18 inches in width. Woolly thyme plants are perennial and survive in USDA zones 4 to 7 but sometimes up to zone 9 with sheltered locations during the heat of the day. Little is needed from the gardener with woolly thyme care. This almost self-sustaining plant is a treat for the unmotivated or the just plain too busy gardener.
Growing Woolly Thyme
Thyme is a member of the mint family and as tenacious and sturdy as other members of the group, so when planting woolly thyme, put it in an area where spread is desirable. Woolly thyme plants can be easily started from seed indoors or from small plugs that are readily available at your local nursery. Keep in mind, however, that those started from seed could take up to a year before they are ready for transplant outdoors. This herb prefers full sun, but will perform in partial shade. When growing woolly thyme ground cover, plant in well draining soil. Preparation of the soil is important. Rake out rocks and impurities and ensure proper drainage. If your soil is suspiciously boggy, amend it with generous amounts of sand or gravel worked into the top 6 to 8 inches. Plant the thyme in early spring after all danger of frost has passed for the best results with spacing of 12 inches. Don’t worry if they look sparse at first. It will soon fill in to a thick carpet of softness.
Woolly Thyme Care
Once established, woolly thyme is drought resistant and care is minimal when plants are grown in soil with the right drainage. Woolly thyme ground cover may become snack food for aphids and spider mites. Protect it with frequent spraying of an organic horticultural soap. Other than that and the occasional supplemental watering in the hottest months, the herb is best ignored. It is almost a “plant it and forget it” type of herb. Woolly thyme care doesn’t necessarily include fertilization, although an all purpose food may help specimens that are not responding to pruning or that are turning brown. More likely, browning of this plant is because of poor soil drainage. Remove the plant if possible, and amend the soil or plant in a different area. Learning how to grow woolly thyme successfully and how to properly care for woolly thyme will include clipping and trimming. Trim back edges of the woolly thyme plant to encourage it to grow thicker. Be sure to use the clippings for cooking, potpourri or in the bath. Hardy herbs are one of the best kept secrets for the novice gardener. Woolly thyme ground cover complements upright herbs and can help keep weeding to a minimum by shading out their seeds. Woolly thyme also grows well in mixed containers, cascading down the sides of the pot. Woolly thyme attracts pollinators too. In fact, bees will line up to sample the sweet flowers.
Woolly Thyme Plant Information
Thyme is one of the more hardy herbs perfect for hot sunny locations. Once established, it tolerates dry conditions and spreads slowly, eventually creating a thick mat of foliage. Tiny leaves on woolly thyme ground cover are green and often edged with gray to silver. In summer the plant adds a bonus and produces sweet little pink to purple flowers. The plants are low growing, rarely getting higher than 12 inches and spreading out to 18 inches in width. Woolly thyme plants are perennial and survive in USDA zones 4 to 7 but sometimes up to zone 9 with sheltered locations during the heat of the day. Little is needed from the gardener with woolly thyme care. This almost self-sustaining plant is a treat for the unmotivated or the just plain too busy gardener.
Growing Woolly Thyme
Thyme is a member of the mint family and as tenacious and sturdy as other members of the group, so when planting woolly thyme, put it in an area where spread is desirable. Woolly thyme plants can be easily started from seed indoors or from small plugs that are readily available at your local nursery. Keep in mind, however, that those started from seed could take up to a year before they are ready for transplant outdoors. This herb prefers full sun, but will perform in partial shade. When growing woolly thyme ground cover, plant in well draining soil. Preparation of the soil is important. Rake out rocks and impurities and ensure proper drainage. If your soil is suspiciously boggy, amend it with generous amounts of sand or gravel worked into the top 6 to 8 inches. Plant the thyme in early spring after all danger of frost has passed for the best results with spacing of 12 inches. Don’t worry if they look sparse at first. It will soon fill in to a thick carpet of softness.
Woolly Thyme Care
Once established, woolly thyme is drought resistant and care is minimal when plants are grown in soil with the right drainage. Woolly thyme ground cover may become snack food for aphids and spider mites. Protect it with frequent spraying of an organic horticultural soap. Other than that and the occasional supplemental watering in the hottest months, the herb is best ignored. It is almost a “plant it and forget it” type of herb. Woolly thyme care doesn’t necessarily include fertilization, although an all purpose food may help specimens that are not responding to pruning or that are turning brown. More likely, browning of this plant is because of poor soil drainage. Remove the plant if possible, and amend the soil or plant in a different area. Learning how to grow woolly thyme successfully and how to properly care for woolly thyme will include clipping and trimming. Trim back edges of the woolly thyme plant to encourage it to grow thicker. Be sure to use the clippings for cooking, potpourri or in the bath. Hardy herbs are one of the best kept secrets for the novice gardener. Woolly thyme ground cover complements upright herbs and can help keep weeding to a minimum by shading out their seeds. Woolly thyme also grows well in mixed containers, cascading down the sides of the pot. Woolly thyme attracts pollinators too. In fact, bees will line up to sample the sweet flowers.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
The “chef’s best friend” or at the very least an essential herb in French cuisine, French tarragon plants (Artemisia dracunculus ‘Sativa’) are sinfully aromatic with a scent redolent of sweet anise and flavor akin to that of licorice. The plants grow to a height of 24 to 36 inches and spread across 12 to 15 inches apart. Although not classified as a different species, French tarragon herbs should not be confused with Russian tarragon, which has a less intense flavor. This tarragon herb is more likely to be encountered by the home gardener when propagated by seed, while French tarragon herbs are entirely propagated via vegetation. True French tarragon may also be found under the more obscure names of ‘Dragon Sagewort,’ ‘Estragon’ or ‘German Tarragon.’
How to Grow French Tarragon
Growing French tarragon plants will flourish when planted in dry, well-aerated soils with a neutral pH of 6.5 to 7.5, although the herbs will do well in a slightly more acidic medium as well. Prior to planting French tarragon herbs, prepare the soil by mixing in 1 to 2 inches of well-composted organics or ½ tablespoon of an all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8) per square foot. Adding organic matter not only feeds the French tarragon plants but will also aid in aerating the soil and improve water drainage. Work the organic nutrients or fertilizer into the top 6 to 8 inches of the soil. As mentioned, French tarragon is propagated vegetatively via stem cuttings or root division. The reason for this is that French tarragon herbs rarely flower, and thus, have limited seed production. When propagating from root division, French tarragon plant care is required lest you damage the delicate roots. Use a knife instead of a hoe or shovel to gently separate roots and collect the new herb plant. Divide the herb in spring just as the new shoots are breaking ground. You should be able to collect three to five new transplants from the parent French tarragon plant.
Propagation may also occur by taking cuttings from young stems early in the morning. Cut a 4- to 8-inch amount of stem from just below a node and then remove the lower one-third of the leaves. Dip the cut end into rooting hormone and then plant in warm, moist potting soil. Keep the new baby herb consistently misted. Once the roots form on your new tarragon plant, it may be transplanted into the garden in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. Plant the new French tarragon plants 24 inches apart. Either way you are propagating French tarragon, the plants prefer full sun exposure and warm but not hot temps. Temperatures over 90 F. (32 C.) may require coverage or partial shading of the herb. French tarragon plants may be grown as either annuals or perennials, depending on your climate and are winter hardy to USDA zone 4. If you are growing French tarragon in a chillier clime, cover the plant with a light mulch during the winter months.
French Tarragon Plant Care
Growing French tarragon plants don’t tolerate wet or overly saturated soil conditions, so watch out for over-watering or situating in locations known for standing water. Water about once a week and allow the soil to dry between watering. Mulch around the base of the plant to keep the moisture near the surface of your herb and to discourage root rot, otherwise French tarragon is fairly disease and pest resistant. There is very little need to fertilize French tarragon, and as with most herbs, French tarragon’s flavor only intensifies in nutrient deficient soils. Just fertilize at the time of planting and then let it go. French tarragon may be pruned and pinched to maintain its shape. Divide the plants in the spring to retain the health of the herb and replant every two to three years. Once established, prepare to enjoy French tarragon fresh or dry in everything to fish recipes, egg dishes, and butter compounds or even to flavor vinegars. Bon Appétit!
How to Grow French Tarragon
Growing French tarragon plants will flourish when planted in dry, well-aerated soils with a neutral pH of 6.5 to 7.5, although the herbs will do well in a slightly more acidic medium as well. Prior to planting French tarragon herbs, prepare the soil by mixing in 1 to 2 inches of well-composted organics or ½ tablespoon of an all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8) per square foot. Adding organic matter not only feeds the French tarragon plants but will also aid in aerating the soil and improve water drainage. Work the organic nutrients or fertilizer into the top 6 to 8 inches of the soil. As mentioned, French tarragon is propagated vegetatively via stem cuttings or root division. The reason for this is that French tarragon herbs rarely flower, and thus, have limited seed production. When propagating from root division, French tarragon plant care is required lest you damage the delicate roots. Use a knife instead of a hoe or shovel to gently separate roots and collect the new herb plant. Divide the herb in spring just as the new shoots are breaking ground. You should be able to collect three to five new transplants from the parent French tarragon plant.
Propagation may also occur by taking cuttings from young stems early in the morning. Cut a 4- to 8-inch amount of stem from just below a node and then remove the lower one-third of the leaves. Dip the cut end into rooting hormone and then plant in warm, moist potting soil. Keep the new baby herb consistently misted. Once the roots form on your new tarragon plant, it may be transplanted into the garden in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. Plant the new French tarragon plants 24 inches apart. Either way you are propagating French tarragon, the plants prefer full sun exposure and warm but not hot temps. Temperatures over 90 F. (32 C.) may require coverage or partial shading of the herb. French tarragon plants may be grown as either annuals or perennials, depending on your climate and are winter hardy to USDA zone 4. If you are growing French tarragon in a chillier clime, cover the plant with a light mulch during the winter months.
French Tarragon Plant Care
Growing French tarragon plants don’t tolerate wet or overly saturated soil conditions, so watch out for over-watering or situating in locations known for standing water. Water about once a week and allow the soil to dry between watering. Mulch around the base of the plant to keep the moisture near the surface of your herb and to discourage root rot, otherwise French tarragon is fairly disease and pest resistant. There is very little need to fertilize French tarragon, and as with most herbs, French tarragon’s flavor only intensifies in nutrient deficient soils. Just fertilize at the time of planting and then let it go. French tarragon may be pruned and pinched to maintain its shape. Divide the plants in the spring to retain the health of the herb and replant every two to three years. Once established, prepare to enjoy French tarragon fresh or dry in everything to fish recipes, egg dishes, and butter compounds or even to flavor vinegars. Bon Appétit!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Sweet cicely (Myrrhis odorata) is an attractive, early-blooming perennial herb with delicate, fern-like foliage, clusters of tiny white flowers and a pleasant, anise-like aroma. Sweet cicely plants are known by a number of alternate names, including garden myrrh, fern-leaved chervil, shepherd’s needle and sweet-scented myrrh. Interested in growing sweet cicely herbs? Read on to learn more.
Sweet Cicely Herb Uses
All parts of sweet cicely plants are edible. Although sweet cicely has been widely cultivated in past years and used to treat ailments such as stomachache and coughs, it isn’t commonly grown in most modern herb gardens. Many herbalists think sweet cicely deserves more attention, especially as a healthy, zero-calorie replacement for sugar.
You can also cook the leaves like spinach, or add fresh leaves to salads, soups or omelets. The stalks can be used much like celery, while the roots can be boiled or eaten raw. Many people say sweet cicely roots make flavorful wine. In the garden, sweet cicely plants are rich in nectar and highly valuable to beesand other beneficial insects. The plant is easy to dry and retains its sweet aroma even when dried.
How to Grow Sweet Cicely
Sweet cicely grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7. The plants perform best in sun or part shade and moist, well-drained soil. An inch or two of compost or well-rotted manure gets sweet cicely off to a good start. Plant sweet cicely seeds directly in the garden in autumn, as the seeds germinate in spring after several weeks of cold winter weather followed by warm temperatures. While it’s possible to plant seeds in spring, the seeds must first undergo a period of chilling in the refrigerator (a process known as stratification) before they will germinate. You can also divide mature plants in spring or autumn.
Sweet Cicely Care
Sweet cicely care is definitely not involved. Just water as needed to keep the soil moist, as sweet cicely generally needs about an inch of water per week. Fertilize regularly. Use an organic fertilizer if you plan to use the herb in the kitchen. Otherwise, any general-purpose plant fertilizer is fine. While sweet cicely isn’t considered invasive, it can be quite aggressive. Remove the blooms before they set seed if you want to limit spread.
Sweet Cicely Herb Uses
All parts of sweet cicely plants are edible. Although sweet cicely has been widely cultivated in past years and used to treat ailments such as stomachache and coughs, it isn’t commonly grown in most modern herb gardens. Many herbalists think sweet cicely deserves more attention, especially as a healthy, zero-calorie replacement for sugar.
You can also cook the leaves like spinach, or add fresh leaves to salads, soups or omelets. The stalks can be used much like celery, while the roots can be boiled or eaten raw. Many people say sweet cicely roots make flavorful wine. In the garden, sweet cicely plants are rich in nectar and highly valuable to beesand other beneficial insects. The plant is easy to dry and retains its sweet aroma even when dried.
How to Grow Sweet Cicely
Sweet cicely grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7. The plants perform best in sun or part shade and moist, well-drained soil. An inch or two of compost or well-rotted manure gets sweet cicely off to a good start. Plant sweet cicely seeds directly in the garden in autumn, as the seeds germinate in spring after several weeks of cold winter weather followed by warm temperatures. While it’s possible to plant seeds in spring, the seeds must first undergo a period of chilling in the refrigerator (a process known as stratification) before they will germinate. You can also divide mature plants in spring or autumn.
Sweet Cicely Care
Sweet cicely care is definitely not involved. Just water as needed to keep the soil moist, as sweet cicely generally needs about an inch of water per week. Fertilize regularly. Use an organic fertilizer if you plan to use the herb in the kitchen. Otherwise, any general-purpose plant fertilizer is fine. While sweet cicely isn’t considered invasive, it can be quite aggressive. Remove the blooms before they set seed if you want to limit spread.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
You may know about St. John’s wort for medicinal purposes such as the relief of anxiety and sleeplessness. When you find it spreading throughout your landscape, however, your main concern will be getting rid of St. John’s wort plants. Information on St. John’s wort says it’s a noxious weed in some areas. Learning how to control St. John’s wort is a long and tedious process, but may be accomplished through significant effort. When you begin getting rid of St. John’s wort, you’ll want to continue until the weed is completely under control.
About St. John’s Wort
St. John’s Wort weed (Hypericum perforatum), also called goatweed or Klamath weed, like many invasive plants of today was introduced as an ornamental in centuries past. It escaped cultivation in the United States and is now listed as a noxious weed in several states. Native plants in many ranchlands are forced out by this weed that can be deadly to grazing cattle. Learning how to control St. John’s wort is necessary for ranchers, commercial growers and home gardeners as well.
How to Control St. John’s Wort
St. John’s wort control begins with evaluation of how widespread the weed has become in your landscape or field. Small infestations can be handled manually by digging or pulling St. John’s wort weed. Effective St John’s wort control with this method comes from removing all the roots and getting rid of St. John’s wort before it produces seeds. It may take weeks or even months of pulling or digging to get rid of St. John’s wort. Burn the weeds after pulling. Don’t burn off the area where St. Johns wort weed is growing though, as this encourages it to spread. Mowing may be a somewhat effective method too, according to info on St. John’s wort control. For larger areas where manual control is not feasible, you may need to bring in chemicals for St. John’s wort control, such as 2,4-D mixed at 2 quarts per acre.
Insects such as the flea beetle have been successful in getting rid of St. John’s wort in some areas. If you have a substantial problem with this weed on a bigger acreage, talk to your county extension service to learn if insects have been used in your area to discourage the weed. An important part of control includes learning to recognize the weed and scouting your property on a regular basis to see if it is growing.
About St. John’s Wort
St. John’s Wort weed (Hypericum perforatum), also called goatweed or Klamath weed, like many invasive plants of today was introduced as an ornamental in centuries past. It escaped cultivation in the United States and is now listed as a noxious weed in several states. Native plants in many ranchlands are forced out by this weed that can be deadly to grazing cattle. Learning how to control St. John’s wort is necessary for ranchers, commercial growers and home gardeners as well.
How to Control St. John’s Wort
St. John’s wort control begins with evaluation of how widespread the weed has become in your landscape or field. Small infestations can be handled manually by digging or pulling St. John’s wort weed. Effective St John’s wort control with this method comes from removing all the roots and getting rid of St. John’s wort before it produces seeds. It may take weeks or even months of pulling or digging to get rid of St. John’s wort. Burn the weeds after pulling. Don’t burn off the area where St. Johns wort weed is growing though, as this encourages it to spread. Mowing may be a somewhat effective method too, according to info on St. John’s wort control. For larger areas where manual control is not feasible, you may need to bring in chemicals for St. John’s wort control, such as 2,4-D mixed at 2 quarts per acre.
Insects such as the flea beetle have been successful in getting rid of St. John’s wort in some areas. If you have a substantial problem with this weed on a bigger acreage, talk to your county extension service to learn if insects have been used in your area to discourage the weed. An important part of control includes learning to recognize the weed and scouting your property on a regular basis to see if it is growing.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Sea fennel (Crithmum maritimum) is one of those classic plants that used to be popular but somehow fell out of favor. And like a lot of those plants, it’s starting to make comeback – especially in high end restaurants. So what is sea fennel? Keep reading to learn more about how to grow sea fennel and sea fennel uses.
Sea Fennel Uses
At its roots, sea fennel was a favorite food to be foraged on the coasts of the Black Sea, the North Sea, and the Mediterranean. Also known as Samphire or Rock Samphire, it has a rich salty taste and has a place in a lot of traditional European cooking.
Growing sea fennel opens up a lot of culinary opportunities. Sea fennel uses in cooking range from pickling to steaming to blanching. It is necessary to cook it briefly before eating, but a light blanching is all it takes to make an excellent side dish. Because of their natural saltiness, sea fennel plants pair especially well with shellfish. They also freeze well – just lightly blanch them and freeze them overnight laid out in a single layer on a baking sheet. The next morning, seal them in a bag and return it to the freezer.
How to Grow Sea Fennel
Growing sea fennel in the garden is very easy. Although it’s used to salty coastal soil, it will do well in any well-draining soil and has actually been cultivated in gardens in England for centuries. Sow your sea fennel seeds indoors a few weeks before the average last frost. Transplant the seedlings outside after all chance of frost has passed.
Sea fennel plants can tolerate some shade, but they’ll perform best in full sun. It’s a good idea to dig a large hole and fill the bottom of it with gravel to make drainage easier. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Harvest young leaves and stems throughout spring and summer by hand picking or cutting with scissors – similar to the harvesting of most common herb plants.
Sea Fennel Uses
At its roots, sea fennel was a favorite food to be foraged on the coasts of the Black Sea, the North Sea, and the Mediterranean. Also known as Samphire or Rock Samphire, it has a rich salty taste and has a place in a lot of traditional European cooking.
Growing sea fennel opens up a lot of culinary opportunities. Sea fennel uses in cooking range from pickling to steaming to blanching. It is necessary to cook it briefly before eating, but a light blanching is all it takes to make an excellent side dish. Because of their natural saltiness, sea fennel plants pair especially well with shellfish. They also freeze well – just lightly blanch them and freeze them overnight laid out in a single layer on a baking sheet. The next morning, seal them in a bag and return it to the freezer.
How to Grow Sea Fennel
Growing sea fennel in the garden is very easy. Although it’s used to salty coastal soil, it will do well in any well-draining soil and has actually been cultivated in gardens in England for centuries. Sow your sea fennel seeds indoors a few weeks before the average last frost. Transplant the seedlings outside after all chance of frost has passed.
Sea fennel plants can tolerate some shade, but they’ll perform best in full sun. It’s a good idea to dig a large hole and fill the bottom of it with gravel to make drainage easier. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Harvest young leaves and stems throughout spring and summer by hand picking or cutting with scissors – similar to the harvesting of most common herb plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Creeping savory in gardens are compact, fragrant plants at home in herb gardens or along borders or pathways. These easy-to-grow herbs are also well suited for containers or window boxes where the trailing stems can cascade over the edges. At only 2 to 4 inches tall, creeping savory plants make ideal ground covers. This hardy little herb is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Read to learn about growing creeping savory in your own garden.
Creeping Savory Uses
Creeping savory (Satureja spicigera) is a variety of savory herb and, as such, its uses are many. Here are just a few of the most common creeping savory uses in the garden:
Traditionally, savory was used to relieve sore throats, coughs, flatulence, diarrhea, menstrual problems, arthritis and insect bites. It shouldn’t be used by pregnant women. Creeping savory has a flavor similar to thymeor marjoram. It is used either fresh or dried to flavor a variety of foods. In the garden, creeping savory blooms attract bees and other beneficial insects. It is said to repel certain types of pests when companion planted near onionsor beans.
Growing Creeping Savory Plants
Learn how to care for creeping savory in the garden is an easy endeavor. Creeping savory thrives in sunny, arid conditions and nearly any type of well-drained soil, including poor, highly alkaline soil. The plant tolerates intense heat and drought and tends to become leggy in shade. Plant creeping savory seeds in late winter or after frost danger has passed in early spring. You can also propagate creeping savory by taking cuttings of mature plants. The seeds may be difficult to find. Keep new creeping savory plants moist until the plants are established. Thereafter, water sparingly. In general, creeping savory plants require water only during dry spells. Pinch the tips of new growth in spring to encourage full, bushy growth.
Creeping Savory Uses
Creeping savory (Satureja spicigera) is a variety of savory herb and, as such, its uses are many. Here are just a few of the most common creeping savory uses in the garden:
Traditionally, savory was used to relieve sore throats, coughs, flatulence, diarrhea, menstrual problems, arthritis and insect bites. It shouldn’t be used by pregnant women. Creeping savory has a flavor similar to thymeor marjoram. It is used either fresh or dried to flavor a variety of foods. In the garden, creeping savory blooms attract bees and other beneficial insects. It is said to repel certain types of pests when companion planted near onionsor beans.
Growing Creeping Savory Plants
Learn how to care for creeping savory in the garden is an easy endeavor. Creeping savory thrives in sunny, arid conditions and nearly any type of well-drained soil, including poor, highly alkaline soil. The plant tolerates intense heat and drought and tends to become leggy in shade. Plant creeping savory seeds in late winter or after frost danger has passed in early spring. You can also propagate creeping savory by taking cuttings of mature plants. The seeds may be difficult to find. Keep new creeping savory plants moist until the plants are established. Thereafter, water sparingly. In general, creeping savory plants require water only during dry spells. Pinch the tips of new growth in spring to encourage full, bushy growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
A lot of people enjoy having small kitchen window sill plants like rosemary. However, although they are easy to grow, they aren’t without faults. Often, you’ll find there are problems with growing rosemary, one of them being a common fungus.
Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Perhaps you’ve noticed a white powder on your rosemary plants in your kitchen. If so, you aren’t alone. The white powder is actually powdery mildew on rosemary, a common plant ailment. It is caused by many different fungi that are closely related. This is one of the most common problems with growing rosemary plants, and all indoor plants actually. Each indoor plant has a white powdery mildew that is specific to that particular plant. Rosemary is no different. Powdery mildew won’t kill the rosemary plant, but it will weaken it. This is one of the easiest plant diseases to diagnose. Powdery mildew appears as a white powder on rosemary, which coats the leaves of the plant. The powder is actually thousands of little spores and can spread to other plants if severe enough.
How to Get Rid of Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Powdery mildew can be partially removed if you rub the leaves of your rosemary plant carefully. If you don’t try to remove some of it, the white powder on rosemary can result in leaf drop. The powdery mildew on rosemary can rob the plants of the nutrients they need to grow. Powdery mildew on rosemary can definitely make the plant look a little ragged, but it shouldn’t kill it. Pick up any infected leaves that have fallen off the plant. Also, take infected plants out of high humidity rooms, like the bathroom or kitchen. Finally, spraying the white powder on rosemary with a fungicide such as neem oil will help to kill the fungus. You might want to try spraying water on it first every few days to knock the mildew off before resorting to fungicide. You may need to repeat this every few days for it to be effective, but be careful not to overwater the plant itself or you will end up with root rot, another of the common problems for rosemary plants or other indoor houseplants.
Preventing Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
One of the best ways to treat white powder on rosemary is to prevent it in the first place. Even if you still have an outbreak, with a few precautions beforehand, the powdery mildew will not have as good a stronghold, making it’s treatment even easier.
When it comes to the prevention of powdery mildew, the use of bicarbonates seems promising, at least for many people. Since powdery mildew fungus thrives in moist, humid conditions, ensure that your plant has plenty of light and well-draining soil. Only water the plant as needed to avoid overly saturated soil and keep the water off the foliage. Keep your rosemary plants well ventilated too, meaning do not overcrowd them with other plants. This only creates a moist environment for the fungus to thrive in. Oftentimes, powdery mildew attacks new growth, so avoiding excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers should help limit this growth. Purchasing plants that are resistant to the disease, whenever available, is a good idea too. Now that you know what the white powder on rosemary is, and how to treat or prevent it, you can go back to enjoying your rosemary plant.
Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Perhaps you’ve noticed a white powder on your rosemary plants in your kitchen. If so, you aren’t alone. The white powder is actually powdery mildew on rosemary, a common plant ailment. It is caused by many different fungi that are closely related. This is one of the most common problems with growing rosemary plants, and all indoor plants actually. Each indoor plant has a white powdery mildew that is specific to that particular plant. Rosemary is no different. Powdery mildew won’t kill the rosemary plant, but it will weaken it. This is one of the easiest plant diseases to diagnose. Powdery mildew appears as a white powder on rosemary, which coats the leaves of the plant. The powder is actually thousands of little spores and can spread to other plants if severe enough.
How to Get Rid of Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Powdery mildew can be partially removed if you rub the leaves of your rosemary plant carefully. If you don’t try to remove some of it, the white powder on rosemary can result in leaf drop. The powdery mildew on rosemary can rob the plants of the nutrients they need to grow. Powdery mildew on rosemary can definitely make the plant look a little ragged, but it shouldn’t kill it. Pick up any infected leaves that have fallen off the plant. Also, take infected plants out of high humidity rooms, like the bathroom or kitchen. Finally, spraying the white powder on rosemary with a fungicide such as neem oil will help to kill the fungus. You might want to try spraying water on it first every few days to knock the mildew off before resorting to fungicide. You may need to repeat this every few days for it to be effective, but be careful not to overwater the plant itself or you will end up with root rot, another of the common problems for rosemary plants or other indoor houseplants.
Preventing Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
One of the best ways to treat white powder on rosemary is to prevent it in the first place. Even if you still have an outbreak, with a few precautions beforehand, the powdery mildew will not have as good a stronghold, making it’s treatment even easier.
When it comes to the prevention of powdery mildew, the use of bicarbonates seems promising, at least for many people. Since powdery mildew fungus thrives in moist, humid conditions, ensure that your plant has plenty of light and well-draining soil. Only water the plant as needed to avoid overly saturated soil and keep the water off the foliage. Keep your rosemary plants well ventilated too, meaning do not overcrowd them with other plants. This only creates a moist environment for the fungus to thrive in. Oftentimes, powdery mildew attacks new growth, so avoiding excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers should help limit this growth. Purchasing plants that are resistant to the disease, whenever available, is a good idea too. Now that you know what the white powder on rosemary is, and how to treat or prevent it, you can go back to enjoying your rosemary plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing rosemary indoors is sometimes a tricky thing to do. Many good gardeners have tried, and despite their best efforts, end up with a dry, brown, dead rosemary plant. If you know the secrets to proper care of rosemary plants growing inside, you can keep your rosemary plants growing happily indoors all winter long.
Tips for Growing Rosemary Indoors
Most often, there are four things on the list of what kills rosemary plants indoors. These are:
lack of sunlight
poor watering practices
powdery mildew
pests
If you can avoid these issues, your rosemary plant will live happily inside. Let’s look at how to avoid each.
Lack of Sunlight
Most people aren’t aware that the lack of sunshine is the most common reason for a rosemary plant growing indoors to die. Often, rosemary plants are brought indoors without any acclimation. They go from six to eight hours of strong, direct light to four to six hours of weak or indirect light. The rosemary plant is unable to produce enough energy to stay alive on this amount of weak light and simply dies. The first step to preventing rosemary light starvation is to put your rosemary on a sunlight diet before you bring it indoors. Several weeks before you plan on bringing the rosemary inside, move the plant to gradually shadier areas of your yard. This will force the rosemary plant to grow leaves that are more efficient at turning light into energy, which will help it cope with weaker indoor light when it moves inside. Once your rosemary moves indoors, make sure that you place it in the brightest window in your house, which is normally a south facing window. If your rosemary plant is not getting at least six to eight hours of light a day, place a lamp with a fluorescent light bulb as close as possible to the plant to supplement the sunlight.
Poor Watering
Practices The second most common reason for an indoor rosemary dying is watering practices. Often, indoor rosemary plants are watered too little or too much. Make sure that the drainage on the container with the rosemary is excellent. Only water the soil when the top of the soil is dry to the touch. But, that being said, never let the soil dry out completely. In the winter, rosemary plants grow much more slowly and need much less water than they do in the summer. Watering too often will cause root rot, which will kill the plant. On the other side, if the soil of the rosemary plant is allowed to dry out completely, the roots will die back and the plant will not have enough roots to support itself.
Powdery Mildew
Indoors or outdoors, rosemary plants are very susceptible to powdery mildew. Most homes don’t have the same air circulation as the outside world does, which makes this an even worse problem for the plant inside. The best way to drive away powdery mildew on rosemary plants is to increase the air circulation around it. Letting a fan blow on it for a few hours a day or taking it out of more high humidity rooms like the bathroom or kitchen, will help improve the air circulation. You can also treat the plant with a fungicide to help keep away the powdery mildew.
Pests
To be honest, while pests may get the blame for killing a rosemary plant, most pests will only infest a plant that is already weakened. Unfortunately, most rosemary growing indoors, despite all best efforts, are growing in a somewhat weakened state. The stricter you are with yourself about making sure that your rosemary plant is watered properly and gets enough light, the less likely pests will bother the plant. But, if your rosemary is infected with pests, use a houseplant pesticide to remove them. Since rosemary is an herb and it is mainly grown to be eaten, look for organic pesticides. One that is growing in popularity is neem oil, as it is very effective against pests but is completely harmless to humans and pets.
Tips for Growing Rosemary Indoors
Most often, there are four things on the list of what kills rosemary plants indoors. These are:
lack of sunlight
poor watering practices
powdery mildew
pests
If you can avoid these issues, your rosemary plant will live happily inside. Let’s look at how to avoid each.
Lack of Sunlight
Most people aren’t aware that the lack of sunshine is the most common reason for a rosemary plant growing indoors to die. Often, rosemary plants are brought indoors without any acclimation. They go from six to eight hours of strong, direct light to four to six hours of weak or indirect light. The rosemary plant is unable to produce enough energy to stay alive on this amount of weak light and simply dies. The first step to preventing rosemary light starvation is to put your rosemary on a sunlight diet before you bring it indoors. Several weeks before you plan on bringing the rosemary inside, move the plant to gradually shadier areas of your yard. This will force the rosemary plant to grow leaves that are more efficient at turning light into energy, which will help it cope with weaker indoor light when it moves inside. Once your rosemary moves indoors, make sure that you place it in the brightest window in your house, which is normally a south facing window. If your rosemary plant is not getting at least six to eight hours of light a day, place a lamp with a fluorescent light bulb as close as possible to the plant to supplement the sunlight.
Poor Watering
Practices The second most common reason for an indoor rosemary dying is watering practices. Often, indoor rosemary plants are watered too little or too much. Make sure that the drainage on the container with the rosemary is excellent. Only water the soil when the top of the soil is dry to the touch. But, that being said, never let the soil dry out completely. In the winter, rosemary plants grow much more slowly and need much less water than they do in the summer. Watering too often will cause root rot, which will kill the plant. On the other side, if the soil of the rosemary plant is allowed to dry out completely, the roots will die back and the plant will not have enough roots to support itself.
Powdery Mildew
Indoors or outdoors, rosemary plants are very susceptible to powdery mildew. Most homes don’t have the same air circulation as the outside world does, which makes this an even worse problem for the plant inside. The best way to drive away powdery mildew on rosemary plants is to increase the air circulation around it. Letting a fan blow on it for a few hours a day or taking it out of more high humidity rooms like the bathroom or kitchen, will help improve the air circulation. You can also treat the plant with a fungicide to help keep away the powdery mildew.
Pests
To be honest, while pests may get the blame for killing a rosemary plant, most pests will only infest a plant that is already weakened. Unfortunately, most rosemary growing indoors, despite all best efforts, are growing in a somewhat weakened state. The stricter you are with yourself about making sure that your rosemary plant is watered properly and gets enough light, the less likely pests will bother the plant. But, if your rosemary is infected with pests, use a houseplant pesticide to remove them. Since rosemary is an herb and it is mainly grown to be eaten, look for organic pesticides. One that is growing in popularity is neem oil, as it is very effective against pests but is completely harmless to humans and pets.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Rosemary’s fragrance floats on the breeze, making homes near plantings smell clean and fresh; in the herb garden, rosemary can double as a hedge when the right varieties are selected. Some rosemary varieties are even suitable as indoor potted plants, provided they get to spend the summer sunbathing on the patio. These tough, flexible plants seem almost bulletproof, but when brown rosemary plants appear in the garden, you may wonder, “Is my rosemary dying?” Although brown rosemary needles aren’t a particularly good sign, they are often the only early sign of root rot in this plant. If you heed their warning, you may be able to save your plant.
Causes of Brown Rosemary Plants
There are two common causes of rosemary turning brown, both caused by environmental problems that you can easily correct. The most common is root rot, but a sudden shift from the very bright light on a patio to the comparatively darker interior of a home can also cause this symptom. Rosemary evolved on the rocky, steep hillsides of the Mediterranean, in an environment where water is available for only a short period before it rolls on down the hill. Under these conditions, rosemary never had to adapt to wet conditions, so it suffers terribly when planted in a poorly-draining or frequently over-watered garden. Constant moisture causes rosemary roots to rot, leading to brown rosemary needles as the root system shrinks. Increasing drainage or waiting to water until the top 2 inches of soil are dry to the touch is often all these plants need to thrive.
Potted Rosemary Turning Brown
The same watering policy for outdoor plants should hold for potted rosemary — it should never be left in a saucer of water or the soil allowed to remain wet. If your plant isn’t over-watered but you’re still wondering why rosemary has brown tips, look to recent changes in lighting conditions. Plants that move indoors before the last frost may need more time to adjust to the lower amounts of available light.
When moving rosemary from the patio, start earlier in the season when indoor temperatures and outdoor temperatures are similar. Bring the plant inside for a few hours at a time, gradually increasing the time it stays inside during the day over a few weeks. This gives your rosemary time to adjust to indoor lighting by producing leaves that are better at absorbing light. Providing supplemental light can help during the adjustment period.
Causes of Brown Rosemary Plants
There are two common causes of rosemary turning brown, both caused by environmental problems that you can easily correct. The most common is root rot, but a sudden shift from the very bright light on a patio to the comparatively darker interior of a home can also cause this symptom. Rosemary evolved on the rocky, steep hillsides of the Mediterranean, in an environment where water is available for only a short period before it rolls on down the hill. Under these conditions, rosemary never had to adapt to wet conditions, so it suffers terribly when planted in a poorly-draining or frequently over-watered garden. Constant moisture causes rosemary roots to rot, leading to brown rosemary needles as the root system shrinks. Increasing drainage or waiting to water until the top 2 inches of soil are dry to the touch is often all these plants need to thrive.
Potted Rosemary Turning Brown
The same watering policy for outdoor plants should hold for potted rosemary — it should never be left in a saucer of water or the soil allowed to remain wet. If your plant isn’t over-watered but you’re still wondering why rosemary has brown tips, look to recent changes in lighting conditions. Plants that move indoors before the last frost may need more time to adjust to the lower amounts of available light.
When moving rosemary from the patio, start earlier in the season when indoor temperatures and outdoor temperatures are similar. Bring the plant inside for a few hours at a time, gradually increasing the time it stays inside during the day over a few weeks. This gives your rosemary time to adjust to indoor lighting by producing leaves that are better at absorbing light. Providing supplemental light can help during the adjustment period.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
It’s Christmas time again and maybe you are looking for another decorating idea, or you live in a small apartment and just don’t have the room for a full size Christmas tree. Of late, rosemary Christmas trees plants have become popular nursery or grocery store items. Not only is rosemary used as a Christmas tree a festive ornamental for the season, but it is predominantly disease and pest resistant, aromatic, a culinary treasure, and responds beautifully to pruning to maintain the shape. Additionally, a rosemary tree for Christmas can be planted in the garden to wait the following holiday season while maintaining its role as an indispensable herb.
How to Create a Rosemary Tree for Christmas
With the burgeoning popularity of rosemary as a Christmas tree, you can easily purchase one for use during the holidays. However, if you have a bit of a green thumb, it’s also fun to know how to create a rosemary tree for Christmas. If you aren’t a big fan of rosemary, other herbs such as Greek Myrtle and Bay Laurel are also suitable for small living Christmas trees. Initially, the purchased rosemary tree has a lovely pine shape but over time as the herb matures, it outgrows those lines. It is very easy to prune the rosemary to help it maintain its tree shape. Take a picture of the rosemary Christmas tree, print it out and draw an outline of the tree shape you wish the herb to have with a permanent marker. You’ll notice that outside of the marker lines there are branches. These are the branches that need to be pruned back to regain the tree shape. Use your photo as a template to show you where to prune, clipping the branches all the way to their base near the trunk of the rosemary. Don’t leave nubs, as this will stress the herb out. Continue to prune every three to four weeks to maintain the desired shape.
Care for a Rosemary Christmas Tree
Keeping a rosemary tree for Christmas is extremely simple. Continue with the pruning schedule and mist the herb after pruning. Keep the plant in a sunny window or outside in full sun. Keeping rosemary for Christmas healthy requires regular watering. Rosemary plants are drought tolerant, but this doesn’t mean they need no water. It is difficult to tell when to water rosemary as it doesn’t wilt or drop leaves as other plants do when in need of water. The general rule is to water every week or two.
The rosemary Christmas tree will have to be repotted at some point or planted outdoors until the following Christmas. Keep shaping the plant from spring through fall and then bring indoors again. Repot in a larger clay pot to aid in water retention with a lightweight potting mix that provides good drainage.
How to Create a Rosemary Tree for Christmas
With the burgeoning popularity of rosemary as a Christmas tree, you can easily purchase one for use during the holidays. However, if you have a bit of a green thumb, it’s also fun to know how to create a rosemary tree for Christmas. If you aren’t a big fan of rosemary, other herbs such as Greek Myrtle and Bay Laurel are also suitable for small living Christmas trees. Initially, the purchased rosemary tree has a lovely pine shape but over time as the herb matures, it outgrows those lines. It is very easy to prune the rosemary to help it maintain its tree shape. Take a picture of the rosemary Christmas tree, print it out and draw an outline of the tree shape you wish the herb to have with a permanent marker. You’ll notice that outside of the marker lines there are branches. These are the branches that need to be pruned back to regain the tree shape. Use your photo as a template to show you where to prune, clipping the branches all the way to their base near the trunk of the rosemary. Don’t leave nubs, as this will stress the herb out. Continue to prune every three to four weeks to maintain the desired shape.
Care for a Rosemary Christmas Tree
Keeping a rosemary tree for Christmas is extremely simple. Continue with the pruning schedule and mist the herb after pruning. Keep the plant in a sunny window or outside in full sun. Keeping rosemary for Christmas healthy requires regular watering. Rosemary plants are drought tolerant, but this doesn’t mean they need no water. It is difficult to tell when to water rosemary as it doesn’t wilt or drop leaves as other plants do when in need of water. The general rule is to water every week or two.
The rosemary Christmas tree will have to be repotted at some point or planted outdoors until the following Christmas. Keep shaping the plant from spring through fall and then bring indoors again. Repot in a larger clay pot to aid in water retention with a lightweight potting mix that provides good drainage.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Given the right conditions, rosemary plants thrive, eventually reaching heights of 6 to 8 feet. They grow out as well as up, sending out stems that seem determined to explore their surroundings and invade the space of adjacent plants. If your rosemary plant has grown out of control, it’s time to take drastic action. Rejuvenation pruning of rosemary may be needed.
Can You Hard Prune Rosemary?
Gardeners are sometimes hesitant to make drastic cuts on rosemary shrubs because a few herbs with similar, woody stems don’t recover if you make severe cuts. A mature rosemary plant, however, tolerates this drastic pruning, even into the woody parts of the stem.
You can do light pruning and harvesting any time of year, but a rosemary plant responds best to hard pruning in winter when it isn’t actively growing. When pruned in winter, the plant grows back in spring looking better than ever. Read on to find out how to rejuvenate a rosemary shrub. Note: For most people who grow rosemary, the plant will go through a cold period. It isn’t a good idea to prune any herb, rosemary or otherwise, shortly before or during cold because it will cause the plant to grow new shoots, which are very vulnerable to cold damage. In warmer areas where rosemary is more apt to grow to the size in which rejuvenation pruning is needed, the plant is not experiencing the same killing cold, so winter pruning while it’s in dormancy is best. That being said, for those of us NOT living in such areas, stick to spring pruning after the threat of frost has passed.
Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants
The first step in rejuvenating rosemary plants is to determine the size at which you want to maintain the plant. Cut the shrub back to about half of the desired size, and by the end of spring it will fill the allotted space. You can maintain the size of the shrub through summer with light pruning and harvesting. Cutting through the thick, woody parts of the stem on a mature rosemary shrub may be too much for your hand pruners. If you find the stems hard to cut, use loppers with long handles. The length of the handles gives you more leverage and you’ll be able to make the cuts easily. When tender new shoots replace the old growth, you’ll be able to make cuts easily with hand pruners. Don’t toss the prunings on the compost pile! Save the best tips to start new plants, and strip the needles off the remaining stems for drying. The tough stems make excellent kabob skewers.
Can You Hard Prune Rosemary?
Gardeners are sometimes hesitant to make drastic cuts on rosemary shrubs because a few herbs with similar, woody stems don’t recover if you make severe cuts. A mature rosemary plant, however, tolerates this drastic pruning, even into the woody parts of the stem.
You can do light pruning and harvesting any time of year, but a rosemary plant responds best to hard pruning in winter when it isn’t actively growing. When pruned in winter, the plant grows back in spring looking better than ever. Read on to find out how to rejuvenate a rosemary shrub. Note: For most people who grow rosemary, the plant will go through a cold period. It isn’t a good idea to prune any herb, rosemary or otherwise, shortly before or during cold because it will cause the plant to grow new shoots, which are very vulnerable to cold damage. In warmer areas where rosemary is more apt to grow to the size in which rejuvenation pruning is needed, the plant is not experiencing the same killing cold, so winter pruning while it’s in dormancy is best. That being said, for those of us NOT living in such areas, stick to spring pruning after the threat of frost has passed.
Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants
The first step in rejuvenating rosemary plants is to determine the size at which you want to maintain the plant. Cut the shrub back to about half of the desired size, and by the end of spring it will fill the allotted space. You can maintain the size of the shrub through summer with light pruning and harvesting. Cutting through the thick, woody parts of the stem on a mature rosemary shrub may be too much for your hand pruners. If you find the stems hard to cut, use loppers with long handles. The length of the handles gives you more leverage and you’ll be able to make the cuts easily. When tender new shoots replace the old growth, you’ll be able to make cuts easily with hand pruners. Don’t toss the prunings on the compost pile! Save the best tips to start new plants, and strip the needles off the remaining stems for drying. The tough stems make excellent kabob skewers.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
White flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis ‘albus’) is an upright evergreen plant with thick, leathery, needle-like leaves. White rosemary plants tend to be lavish bloomers, producing masses of sweetly scented white flowers in late spring and summer. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, you should have no trouble growing white flowering rosemary in your garden. Birds, bees and butterflies will thank you! Read on to learn more.
Growing White Flowering Rosemary
Although white flowering rosemary tolerates partial shade, it thrives in full sunlight. This drought-tolerant Mediterranean plant needs light, well-drained soil.
Add fertilizer such as a water-soluble fertilizer, a balanced, slow-release fertilizer, or fish emulsion at planting time. Allow at least 18 to 24 inches between plants, as rosemary needs adequate air circulation to remain healthy and disease free.
Caring for White Rosemary
Water white flowering rosemary when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Water deeply, and then let the soil dry before watering again. Like most Mediterranean herbs, rosemary is susceptible to root rot in soggy soil. Mulch the plant to keep the roots warm in winter and cool in summer. However, don’t allow mulch to pile up against the crown of the plant, as moist mulch may invite pests and disease. Fertilize white rosemary plants every spring, as directed above. Prune white flowering rosemary lightly in spring to remove dead and unsightly growth. Trim white rosemary plants for use as needed, but never remove more than 20 percent of the plant at once. Be careful about cutting into woody growth, unless you are shaping the plant.
Uses for White Flowering Rosemary
White flowering rosemary is often planted for its ornamental appeal, which is considerable. Some gardeners believe white flowering rosemary plants, which can reach heights of 4 to 6 feet, may have pest-repellent properties. Like other types of rosemary, white rosemary plants are useful in the kitchen for flavoring chicken and other dishes. Fresh and dried rosemary is used in potpourris and sachets, and the aromatic oil is used to perfume, lotion and soap.
Growing White Flowering Rosemary
Although white flowering rosemary tolerates partial shade, it thrives in full sunlight. This drought-tolerant Mediterranean plant needs light, well-drained soil.
Add fertilizer such as a water-soluble fertilizer, a balanced, slow-release fertilizer, or fish emulsion at planting time. Allow at least 18 to 24 inches between plants, as rosemary needs adequate air circulation to remain healthy and disease free.
Caring for White Rosemary
Water white flowering rosemary when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Water deeply, and then let the soil dry before watering again. Like most Mediterranean herbs, rosemary is susceptible to root rot in soggy soil. Mulch the plant to keep the roots warm in winter and cool in summer. However, don’t allow mulch to pile up against the crown of the plant, as moist mulch may invite pests and disease. Fertilize white rosemary plants every spring, as directed above. Prune white flowering rosemary lightly in spring to remove dead and unsightly growth. Trim white rosemary plants for use as needed, but never remove more than 20 percent of the plant at once. Be careful about cutting into woody growth, unless you are shaping the plant.
Uses for White Flowering Rosemary
White flowering rosemary is often planted for its ornamental appeal, which is considerable. Some gardeners believe white flowering rosemary plants, which can reach heights of 4 to 6 feet, may have pest-repellent properties. Like other types of rosemary, white rosemary plants are useful in the kitchen for flavoring chicken and other dishes. Fresh and dried rosemary is used in potpourris and sachets, and the aromatic oil is used to perfume, lotion and soap.
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