文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Scented geraniums (Pelargoniums) are tender perennials, available in delightful scents like spice, mint, various fruits and rose. If you love scented geraniums, you can easily multiply your plants by rooting pelargonium cuttings. Read on to learn more.
Propagating Scented Geraniums
Propagating scented geraniums is surprisingly easy and requires very little expense and no fancy equipment. In fact, some gardeners have good luck by simply breaking off a stem and planting it in the same pot with the parent plant. However, if you want to be more deliberate with a higher chance of success, here are simple steps for growing scented geraniums from cuttings.
How to Root Scented Geranium Cuttings
Although these adaptable plants may take root any time after spring, late summer is the optimum time for rooting pelargonium cuttings. Cut a stem from a healthy growing plant using a sharp, sterile knife. Make the cut just below a leaf joint. Remove all the leaves except the top two. Also, remove any buds and flowers from the stem. Get a small pot with a drainage hole. A 3-inch pot is fine for a single cutting, while a 4- to 6-inch pot will hold four or five cuttings. Fill the pot with regular potting mix or seed starter. Avoid mixes with added fertilizer.
Water the potting mix well, then set it aside to drain until the mix is evenly moist but not soggy or dripping wet. Plant the cutting in the damp potting mix. Be sure the top leaves are above the soil. Don’t bother with rooting hormone; it isn’t necessary. Press the potting soil lightly to remove air bubbles, but don’t compress it. Cover the pot lightly with plastic, then poke several holes in the plastic to provide air circulation. (Plastic is optional, but the greenhouse environment may speed rooting). Insert a couple of drinking straws or chopsticks to hold the plastic above the leaves. Set the pot in indirect light. Normal room temperatures are fine. You can place the pot outdoors if temperatures aren’t too hot and sunlight isn’t intense. Water the potting mix lightly after about a week, or when it feels dry. Watering from the bottom is preferable. Remove the plastic for a few hours if you notice water drops. Too much moisture will rot the cuttings. Remove the plastic permanently and transplant the cuttings into individual pots when new growth appears, which indicates the cuttings have rooted. This process may take several days or a few weeks.
Rooting Scented Geraniums in Water
Most gardeners find that rooting Pelargonium cuttings in potting mix is more dependable, but you may have good luck rooting scented geraniums in water. Here’s how: Fill a jar about one-third with room temperature water. Place a scented geranium cutting in the water. Ensure the bottom one-third of the cutting is submerged. Place the jar in a warm spot, such as a sunny window. Avoid hot, direct sunlight, which will cook the cutting. Watch for roots to develop in about a month. Then, plant the rooted cutting in a pot filled with regular potting mix.
Propagating Scented Geraniums
Propagating scented geraniums is surprisingly easy and requires very little expense and no fancy equipment. In fact, some gardeners have good luck by simply breaking off a stem and planting it in the same pot with the parent plant. However, if you want to be more deliberate with a higher chance of success, here are simple steps for growing scented geraniums from cuttings.
How to Root Scented Geranium Cuttings
Although these adaptable plants may take root any time after spring, late summer is the optimum time for rooting pelargonium cuttings. Cut a stem from a healthy growing plant using a sharp, sterile knife. Make the cut just below a leaf joint. Remove all the leaves except the top two. Also, remove any buds and flowers from the stem. Get a small pot with a drainage hole. A 3-inch pot is fine for a single cutting, while a 4- to 6-inch pot will hold four or five cuttings. Fill the pot with regular potting mix or seed starter. Avoid mixes with added fertilizer.
Water the potting mix well, then set it aside to drain until the mix is evenly moist but not soggy or dripping wet. Plant the cutting in the damp potting mix. Be sure the top leaves are above the soil. Don’t bother with rooting hormone; it isn’t necessary. Press the potting soil lightly to remove air bubbles, but don’t compress it. Cover the pot lightly with plastic, then poke several holes in the plastic to provide air circulation. (Plastic is optional, but the greenhouse environment may speed rooting). Insert a couple of drinking straws or chopsticks to hold the plastic above the leaves. Set the pot in indirect light. Normal room temperatures are fine. You can place the pot outdoors if temperatures aren’t too hot and sunlight isn’t intense. Water the potting mix lightly after about a week, or when it feels dry. Watering from the bottom is preferable. Remove the plastic for a few hours if you notice water drops. Too much moisture will rot the cuttings. Remove the plastic permanently and transplant the cuttings into individual pots when new growth appears, which indicates the cuttings have rooted. This process may take several days or a few weeks.
Rooting Scented Geraniums in Water
Most gardeners find that rooting Pelargonium cuttings in potting mix is more dependable, but you may have good luck rooting scented geraniums in water. Here’s how: Fill a jar about one-third with room temperature water. Place a scented geranium cutting in the water. Ensure the bottom one-third of the cutting is submerged. Place the jar in a warm spot, such as a sunny window. Avoid hot, direct sunlight, which will cook the cutting. Watch for roots to develop in about a month. Then, plant the rooted cutting in a pot filled with regular potting mix.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Scented geranium plants are a sensual delight in any home or garden. Their varied and textured leaves, the bright colors of their flowers, the scented oils they produce and the flavor they can add to food and drinks appeal to all five of our senses. How many other garden additions pack so much punch into one small plant?
About Scented Geraniums
Like their fellow hothouse cousins, scented geranium plants at not true geraniums at all, but members of the Pelargonium genus and are considered to be tender perennials. They are treated as annuals throughout most of Europe and the United States and their beauty is appreciated all over the world. It’s an added bonus that they are so easy to grow!
Scented geranium was originally found in Africa and brought back to Holland by early explorers. From Holland, the popular houseplant migrated to England in the 1600s. They were particularly favored during the Victorian era when the fragrant leaves were added to fingerbowls for guests to rinse their hands between courses at dinner. From those original African plants, horticulturalists have developed the wide variety of scented geranium plants we enjoy today. There are now over a hundred varieties with different shaped and textured leaves, flower colors and aromas. If you’re familiar with growing scented geraniums, you know that the varieties are first categorized by their scent. Mint, rose, citrus and chocolate — yes, that’s CHOCOLATE with no calories — are a few of the more popular scents available. Leaves of the scented geranium run the gamut from smoothly rounded to finely cut and lacy and from grey-green to dark. Their tiny flowers range from white to shades of lilac and pink to red, often combining colors.
Tips for Growing Scented Geraniums
Scented geranium care is pretty basic. You can grow them in pots, indoors or out, or in the ground. They prefer lots of sun, but may need some protection when the sun is at its strongest. They aren’t fussy about soil type though they don’t like wet feet. Fertilize them lightly and sparingly while they’re actively growing. Scented geranium’s biggest downside is they tend to get leggy and need to be trimmed back to promote bushiness. Over-fertilization will only increase this problem. Don’t throw those trimmings away, though. You can easily grow scented geranium from cuttings to replace older plants or to give as gifts to friends. You might want to line a sidewalk or path with plants grown from your cuttings. Whether in containers or in the ground, grow scented geraniums where they will be touched as the leaves need to be brushed or crushed to release the aromatic oils.
Before the first frost of fall, dig up your plants to bring indoors or take cuttings for winter growing. Scented geraniums do well indoors under the same conditions as out. Keep them in a sunny window, water regularly and fertilize very little. Scented geranium care is so easy both indoors and out, it’s a wonder every gardener doesn’t own at least one. They’re the perfect patio or balcony plant. Not only do they offer fragrant leaves, lovely flowers and exquisite scent; they’re edible! The leaves can be used to flavor teas, jellies, or baked goods and the aroma therapy is free for the taking. So never mind the roses. Stop and smell the scented geranium.
About Scented Geraniums
Like their fellow hothouse cousins, scented geranium plants at not true geraniums at all, but members of the Pelargonium genus and are considered to be tender perennials. They are treated as annuals throughout most of Europe and the United States and their beauty is appreciated all over the world. It’s an added bonus that they are so easy to grow!
Scented geranium was originally found in Africa and brought back to Holland by early explorers. From Holland, the popular houseplant migrated to England in the 1600s. They were particularly favored during the Victorian era when the fragrant leaves were added to fingerbowls for guests to rinse their hands between courses at dinner. From those original African plants, horticulturalists have developed the wide variety of scented geranium plants we enjoy today. There are now over a hundred varieties with different shaped and textured leaves, flower colors and aromas. If you’re familiar with growing scented geraniums, you know that the varieties are first categorized by their scent. Mint, rose, citrus and chocolate — yes, that’s CHOCOLATE with no calories — are a few of the more popular scents available. Leaves of the scented geranium run the gamut from smoothly rounded to finely cut and lacy and from grey-green to dark. Their tiny flowers range from white to shades of lilac and pink to red, often combining colors.
Tips for Growing Scented Geraniums
Scented geranium care is pretty basic. You can grow them in pots, indoors or out, or in the ground. They prefer lots of sun, but may need some protection when the sun is at its strongest. They aren’t fussy about soil type though they don’t like wet feet. Fertilize them lightly and sparingly while they’re actively growing. Scented geranium’s biggest downside is they tend to get leggy and need to be trimmed back to promote bushiness. Over-fertilization will only increase this problem. Don’t throw those trimmings away, though. You can easily grow scented geranium from cuttings to replace older plants or to give as gifts to friends. You might want to line a sidewalk or path with plants grown from your cuttings. Whether in containers or in the ground, grow scented geraniums where they will be touched as the leaves need to be brushed or crushed to release the aromatic oils.
Before the first frost of fall, dig up your plants to bring indoors or take cuttings for winter growing. Scented geraniums do well indoors under the same conditions as out. Keep them in a sunny window, water regularly and fertilize very little. Scented geranium care is so easy both indoors and out, it’s a wonder every gardener doesn’t own at least one. They’re the perfect patio or balcony plant. Not only do they offer fragrant leaves, lovely flowers and exquisite scent; they’re edible! The leaves can be used to flavor teas, jellies, or baked goods and the aroma therapy is free for the taking. So never mind the roses. Stop and smell the scented geranium.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Santolina herb plants were introduced to the United States from the Mediterranean in 1952. Today, they are recognized as a naturalized plant in many areas of California. Also known as lavender cotton, Santolina herb plants are members of the sunflower/aster family (Asteraceae). So what is Santolina and how do you use Santolina in the garden landscape?
What is Santolina?
An herbaceous perennial suited to hot, dry summer and full sun, Santolina (S. chamaecyperissus) is indigent to areas of sandy, rocky infertile soils but will also do well in garden loam and even clay, provided it is well amended and well-drained.
These evergreen shrubs have either silvery grey or green leaves reminiscent of conifers. Santolina has a mounded, round and dense habit reaching only 2 feet high and wide with vibrant yellow ½-inch flowers perched on stems above the foliage, which are notably attractive in dried flower arrangements and wreaths. The silver foliage makes a nice contrast to other green tones of the garden and persists through the winter. It is a prominent specimen for xeriscapes and mixes well with other Mediterranean herbs such as lavender, thyme, sage, oregano, and rosemary.
Lovely in a mixed perennial border along with rockroses, Artemisia and buckwheat, growing Santolina has a virtual plethora of uses in the home landscape. Growing Santolina can even be trained into a low hedge. Give the plants plenty of room to spread or allow them to take over and create a massed ground cover. Santolina herb plants also have a fairly pungent aroma akin to camphor and resin mixed when the foliage is bruised. Perhaps this is why deer don’t seem to have a yen for it and leave it alone.
Santolina Plant Care
Plant your Santolina herb in areas of full sun through USDA zone 6 in almost any type of soil. Drought tolerant, Santolina herb requires minimal to moderate irrigation once established. Overwatering will likely kill the plant. Wet, humid weather will foster fungal development. Prune Santolina back drastically in the late winter or spring to keep it from splitting or dying out in the center of the plant. However, if this happens, other Santolina plant care indicates ease of propagation.
Simply take 3-4 inch cuttings in the fall, pot them and provide heat, then plant in the garden in summer. Or, seed can be sown under a cold frame in fall or spring. The herb will also begin to grow roots when a branch touches the soil (called layering), thereby creating a new Santolina. Besides over watering, the downfall of Santolina is its short life; about every five years or so (as lavender) the plant needs to be replaced. Luckily it is easy to propagate. Plants can also be divided in the spring or fall. Santolina herb plant is fairly pest and disease resistant, drought tolerant and deer resistant, and easy to propagate. Santolina herb plant is a must have specimen for the water-efficient garden or an excellent replacement when eliminating a lawn entirely.
What is Santolina?
An herbaceous perennial suited to hot, dry summer and full sun, Santolina (S. chamaecyperissus) is indigent to areas of sandy, rocky infertile soils but will also do well in garden loam and even clay, provided it is well amended and well-drained.
These evergreen shrubs have either silvery grey or green leaves reminiscent of conifers. Santolina has a mounded, round and dense habit reaching only 2 feet high and wide with vibrant yellow ½-inch flowers perched on stems above the foliage, which are notably attractive in dried flower arrangements and wreaths. The silver foliage makes a nice contrast to other green tones of the garden and persists through the winter. It is a prominent specimen for xeriscapes and mixes well with other Mediterranean herbs such as lavender, thyme, sage, oregano, and rosemary.
Lovely in a mixed perennial border along with rockroses, Artemisia and buckwheat, growing Santolina has a virtual plethora of uses in the home landscape. Growing Santolina can even be trained into a low hedge. Give the plants plenty of room to spread or allow them to take over and create a massed ground cover. Santolina herb plants also have a fairly pungent aroma akin to camphor and resin mixed when the foliage is bruised. Perhaps this is why deer don’t seem to have a yen for it and leave it alone.
Santolina Plant Care
Plant your Santolina herb in areas of full sun through USDA zone 6 in almost any type of soil. Drought tolerant, Santolina herb requires minimal to moderate irrigation once established. Overwatering will likely kill the plant. Wet, humid weather will foster fungal development. Prune Santolina back drastically in the late winter or spring to keep it from splitting or dying out in the center of the plant. However, if this happens, other Santolina plant care indicates ease of propagation.
Simply take 3-4 inch cuttings in the fall, pot them and provide heat, then plant in the garden in summer. Or, seed can be sown under a cold frame in fall or spring. The herb will also begin to grow roots when a branch touches the soil (called layering), thereby creating a new Santolina. Besides over watering, the downfall of Santolina is its short life; about every five years or so (as lavender) the plant needs to be replaced. Luckily it is easy to propagate. Plants can also be divided in the spring or fall. Santolina herb plant is fairly pest and disease resistant, drought tolerant and deer resistant, and easy to propagate. Santolina herb plant is a must have specimen for the water-efficient garden or an excellent replacement when eliminating a lawn entirely.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Tangerine sage plants (Salvia elegans) are hardy perennial herbs that grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. In cooler climates, the plant is grown as an annual. Highly ornamental and relatively speedy, growing tangerine sage couldn’t be easier, as long as you meet the plant’s basic growing conditions. Read on find out how to grow tangerine sage.
Tangerine Sage Plant Info
Tangerine sage, also known as pineapple sage, is a member of the mint family. This is a good time to mention that although not as wildly invasive as many of its mint cousins, tangerine sage can be somewhat aggressive in certain conditions. If this is a concern, tangerine sage is easily grown in a large container. This is a good-sized plant, topping off at 3 to 5 feet at maturity, with a 2- to 3-foot spread. Butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted to the red, trumpet-shaped flowers, which appear in late summer and autumn.
How to Grow Tangerine Sage
Plant tangerine sage in moderately rich, well-drained soil. Tangerine sage thrives in sunlight, but also tolerates partial shade. Allow plenty of space between plants, as crowding inhibits air circulation and may lead to disease. Water tangerine sage as needed to keep the soil moist after planting. Once the plants are established, they are relatively drought tolerant, but benefit from irrigation during dry weather. Feed tangerine sage plants with an all-purpose, time-release fertilizer at planting time, which should provide nutrients to last throughout the growing season. If you live in a warm climate, cut tangerine sage plants to the ground after blooming ends in autumn.
Is Tangerine Sage Edible?
Absolutely. In fact, this sage plant (as you may have guessed) has a delightful fruity, citrus-like aroma. It is frequently incorporated into herbal butter or fruit salads, or brewed into herbal tea, much like its minty cousins. Other uses for tangerine sage include dried flower arrangements, herbal wreaths and potpourri.
Tangerine Sage Plant Info
Tangerine sage, also known as pineapple sage, is a member of the mint family. This is a good time to mention that although not as wildly invasive as many of its mint cousins, tangerine sage can be somewhat aggressive in certain conditions. If this is a concern, tangerine sage is easily grown in a large container. This is a good-sized plant, topping off at 3 to 5 feet at maturity, with a 2- to 3-foot spread. Butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted to the red, trumpet-shaped flowers, which appear in late summer and autumn.
How to Grow Tangerine Sage
Plant tangerine sage in moderately rich, well-drained soil. Tangerine sage thrives in sunlight, but also tolerates partial shade. Allow plenty of space between plants, as crowding inhibits air circulation and may lead to disease. Water tangerine sage as needed to keep the soil moist after planting. Once the plants are established, they are relatively drought tolerant, but benefit from irrigation during dry weather. Feed tangerine sage plants with an all-purpose, time-release fertilizer at planting time, which should provide nutrients to last throughout the growing season. If you live in a warm climate, cut tangerine sage plants to the ground after blooming ends in autumn.
Is Tangerine Sage Edible?
Absolutely. In fact, this sage plant (as you may have guessed) has a delightful fruity, citrus-like aroma. It is frequently incorporated into herbal butter or fruit salads, or brewed into herbal tea, much like its minty cousins. Other uses for tangerine sage include dried flower arrangements, herbal wreaths and potpourri.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
For some folks, the holidays just wouldn’t be right without the traditional sage stuffing. Although we are most familiar with culinary sage plants, there are many different types of sage. Some types of sage plants have medicinal properties as well, or are grown purely for ornamental purposes. All of these sage plants work well for gardens. Read on to find out about sage plant varieties and their uses.
Types of Sage Plants
There are many different types of sage or salvia plants available. They may be either perennial or annual, blooming to non-blooming, but pretty much each of these different types of sage is fairly hardy.
Foliage comes in sage green, variegated purple/green, or variegated gold and blossoms range from lavender to bright blue to cheery red. With so many varieties of sage, there’s bound to be a variety for your landscape.
Culinary Sage Plants
Garden or common sage (Salvia officinalis) is the most common type of sage used for cooking. You can also make tea from the leaves. It is very hardy and bounces back in the spring even after a severely cold winter. This particular sage has soft, silvery green leaves that can be used fresh or dried. It is also known to attract beneficial insects, which are attracted to its purple-blue flowers. Although hardy, garden sage usually becomes too woody after a few years to produce many aromatic leaves, so it needs to be replaced every 3-4 years. That said, I had a very woody sage that was losing its vigor, so I dug it out last year. This year, I have brand new downy leaves peeping up from the soil. Hardy, indeed! There are a number of these common garden sage plant varieties.
There is a smaller dwarf that doesn’t exceed a foot in height and blooms with purplish-blue flowers. A purple garden sage whose leaves, as the name suggests, are purple when young. Purple sage doesn’t bloom often like some of the other garden sages. Golden sage is a creeping sage with gold and green variegated leaves that accentuates the color of other plants. Tricolor garden sage looks a bit like purple sage, except the uneven variegation includes white accenting. Lastly of the garden sages, is Berggarten sage, which is very similar to common sage except that it does not bloom, but it does have the lovely soft, silvery green leaves.
Ornamental Sage Plants for Gardens
Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) is a perennial flowering sage with tubular red flowers that attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Today, this beauty is primarily grown as an ornamental, but it is said to have medicinal uses as well. Grape scented sage doesn’t smell like grapes, but rather more like freesia. It can get quite tall (8 feet by 6 feet). It is a late blooming plant that attracts hummingbirds. The leaves and flowers can be steeped to make tea. Another common salvia amongst gardeners is Salvia splendens or scarlet sage (salvia). This is an annual plant that thrives in full sun but withstands partial shade in well-draining soil with consistent irrigation. Blossoms are scarlet in color and last from late spring through the first frost. Mealycup sage is generally an annual in most regions. It attains a height of 2-3 feet and is punctuated with blue, purple or white flower spikes. Some newer varieties to look for are ‘Empire Purple,’ ‘Strata’ and ‘Victoria Blue.’
Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha) grow to 3-4 feet, is drought tolerant, but a tender perennial otherwise. This beautiful accent plant has purple or white flower spikes. There are many other varieties of sage plants for the garden (far too many to name here), whether you want them for their aromatic foliage or as an ornamental or both. Sage plants are a hardy addition to the garden and with so many varieties, you are sure to find one to suit you.
Types of Sage Plants
There are many different types of sage or salvia plants available. They may be either perennial or annual, blooming to non-blooming, but pretty much each of these different types of sage is fairly hardy.
Foliage comes in sage green, variegated purple/green, or variegated gold and blossoms range from lavender to bright blue to cheery red. With so many varieties of sage, there’s bound to be a variety for your landscape.
Culinary Sage Plants
Garden or common sage (Salvia officinalis) is the most common type of sage used for cooking. You can also make tea from the leaves. It is very hardy and bounces back in the spring even after a severely cold winter. This particular sage has soft, silvery green leaves that can be used fresh or dried. It is also known to attract beneficial insects, which are attracted to its purple-blue flowers. Although hardy, garden sage usually becomes too woody after a few years to produce many aromatic leaves, so it needs to be replaced every 3-4 years. That said, I had a very woody sage that was losing its vigor, so I dug it out last year. This year, I have brand new downy leaves peeping up from the soil. Hardy, indeed! There are a number of these common garden sage plant varieties.
There is a smaller dwarf that doesn’t exceed a foot in height and blooms with purplish-blue flowers. A purple garden sage whose leaves, as the name suggests, are purple when young. Purple sage doesn’t bloom often like some of the other garden sages. Golden sage is a creeping sage with gold and green variegated leaves that accentuates the color of other plants. Tricolor garden sage looks a bit like purple sage, except the uneven variegation includes white accenting. Lastly of the garden sages, is Berggarten sage, which is very similar to common sage except that it does not bloom, but it does have the lovely soft, silvery green leaves.
Ornamental Sage Plants for Gardens
Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) is a perennial flowering sage with tubular red flowers that attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Today, this beauty is primarily grown as an ornamental, but it is said to have medicinal uses as well. Grape scented sage doesn’t smell like grapes, but rather more like freesia. It can get quite tall (8 feet by 6 feet). It is a late blooming plant that attracts hummingbirds. The leaves and flowers can be steeped to make tea. Another common salvia amongst gardeners is Salvia splendens or scarlet sage (salvia). This is an annual plant that thrives in full sun but withstands partial shade in well-draining soil with consistent irrigation. Blossoms are scarlet in color and last from late spring through the first frost. Mealycup sage is generally an annual in most regions. It attains a height of 2-3 feet and is punctuated with blue, purple or white flower spikes. Some newer varieties to look for are ‘Empire Purple,’ ‘Strata’ and ‘Victoria Blue.’
Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha) grow to 3-4 feet, is drought tolerant, but a tender perennial otherwise. This beautiful accent plant has purple or white flower spikes. There are many other varieties of sage plants for the garden (far too many to name here), whether you want them for their aromatic foliage or as an ornamental or both. Sage plants are a hardy addition to the garden and with so many varieties, you are sure to find one to suit you.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The rue herb (Ruta graveolens) is considered to be an old fashioned herb garden plant. Once grown for medicinal reasons (which studies have shown to be mostly ineffective and even dangerous), these days rue plants are rarely grown in the garden. But just because an herb has fallen out of favor for its original intent does not mean that it can’t have a place in the garden for other reasons.
What is Rue Plant?
While little known, growing rue herb in the garden can be helpful to a gardener in a number of ways. Its strong smell is a repellent to many creatures, including dogs, cats and Japanese beetles. Because of this, it makes an excellent companion plant. It has semi-woody growth, which means that it can be pruned into hedges. It attracts some typess of butterflies, and, last but not least, makes a lovely cut flower. For all of these reasons, it is beneficial to a gardener to learn how to grow rue. Rue plants have bluish-green, fernlike leaves that are bushy and compact. The flowers on the rue herb are yellow with petals that are frilly on the edges and the center of the flower is normally green. Rue normally grows to a height of 2 to 3 feet tall.
How to Grow Rue Herb
Rue herb does well in a variety of soil but does best in well drained soil. In fact, it will do well in the rocky, dry soil that many other plants have a difficult time surviving. It needs full sun to grow well. It is drought tolerant and rarely, if ever needs to be watered. Care should be taken when handling rue plants. The sap of the rue plant is often irritating and can burn or leave rashes on people’s skin.
Rue can be harvested and used in the house as an insect repellent. Simply cut some of the leaves and dry them, then put the dried leaves in cloth bags. These sachets can be placed where ever you need to repel bugs.
What is Rue Plant?
While little known, growing rue herb in the garden can be helpful to a gardener in a number of ways. Its strong smell is a repellent to many creatures, including dogs, cats and Japanese beetles. Because of this, it makes an excellent companion plant. It has semi-woody growth, which means that it can be pruned into hedges. It attracts some typess of butterflies, and, last but not least, makes a lovely cut flower. For all of these reasons, it is beneficial to a gardener to learn how to grow rue. Rue plants have bluish-green, fernlike leaves that are bushy and compact. The flowers on the rue herb are yellow with petals that are frilly on the edges and the center of the flower is normally green. Rue normally grows to a height of 2 to 3 feet tall.
How to Grow Rue Herb
Rue herb does well in a variety of soil but does best in well drained soil. In fact, it will do well in the rocky, dry soil that many other plants have a difficult time surviving. It needs full sun to grow well. It is drought tolerant and rarely, if ever needs to be watered. Care should be taken when handling rue plants. The sap of the rue plant is often irritating and can burn or leave rashes on people’s skin.
Rue can be harvested and used in the house as an insect repellent. Simply cut some of the leaves and dry them, then put the dried leaves in cloth bags. These sachets can be placed where ever you need to repel bugs.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
If you like to grow unusual and interesting plants, or if you just like to learn about them, you may be reading this to learn about root beer plants (Piper auritum). If you’re wondering how is a root beer plant used, the answer is found below. A root beer plant growing in the garden provides an interesting fragrance and has a multitude of uses in the kitchen. A root beer plant, also known as Hoja Santa, holy leaf or Mexican pepperleaf, growing in the garden provides the aroma of root beer, and large, furry leaves in which to wrap foods and give them a hint of root beer flavor. An evergreen shrub or small tree in USDA zones 10 and 11, root beer plants are herbaceous perennials in USDA zones 8 and 9. Flowers of the root beer plant are not showy and sometimes not even noticeable. Root beer plants are primarily used as culinary ingredients, or in some areas, medicinal.
How Is a Root Beer Plant Used?
Native to Mexico, this plant has a diversity of uses. Leaves of the root beer plant are steamed and used as wraps in many native dishes. The leaves may also be chopped for use in cooking or salads. Info about root beer plants says they are also used medicinally as an aid to digestion and to calm colicky babies. The leaves are soaked in alcohol and used on women’s breasts to increase milk production. Other info says it is used for bronchitis and asthma. However, in the United States, the FDA banned its commercial use as root beer flavoring in the 1960’s, as it contains the oil safrole, which is known to be carcinogenic in animals.
Keeping this fact in mind, you may wish to grow it for the scent in the garden and not for culinary use. Some sources consider it to be toxic; other information disagrees. Caring for root beer plants is simple when the plant is grown in a warm area. Plant it in full sun to part shade, feed and water occasionally. Caring for root beer plants can be neglected without the loss of the plant, but the most attractive foliage results from proper care. The plant won’t survive in freezing temperatures. Now that you’ve learned about root beer plants, also called the Mexican pepperleaf, you may grow them in a scented garden for the wonderful fragrance.
How Is a Root Beer Plant Used?
Native to Mexico, this plant has a diversity of uses. Leaves of the root beer plant are steamed and used as wraps in many native dishes. The leaves may also be chopped for use in cooking or salads. Info about root beer plants says they are also used medicinally as an aid to digestion and to calm colicky babies. The leaves are soaked in alcohol and used on women’s breasts to increase milk production. Other info says it is used for bronchitis and asthma. However, in the United States, the FDA banned its commercial use as root beer flavoring in the 1960’s, as it contains the oil safrole, which is known to be carcinogenic in animals.
Keeping this fact in mind, you may wish to grow it for the scent in the garden and not for culinary use. Some sources consider it to be toxic; other information disagrees. Caring for root beer plants is simple when the plant is grown in a warm area. Plant it in full sun to part shade, feed and water occasionally. Caring for root beer plants can be neglected without the loss of the plant, but the most attractive foliage results from proper care. The plant won’t survive in freezing temperatures. Now that you’ve learned about root beer plants, also called the Mexican pepperleaf, you may grow them in a scented garden for the wonderful fragrance.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Peppergrass weeds, also known as perennial pepperweed plants, are imports from southeastern Europe and Asia. The weeds are invasive and quickly form dense stands that push out desirable native plants. Getting rid of peppergrass is very difficult since each plant produces thousands of seeds and also propagates from root segments. Read on for more perennial pepperweed information including tips for control of pepperweed plants.
Perennial Pepperweed Information
Perennial pepperweed (Lepidium latifolium) is a long-lived herbaceous perennial that is invasive throughout the western United States. It is known by a number of other common names including tall whitetop, perennial peppercress, peppergrass, ironweed and broad-leaved pepperweed. Peppergrass weeds establish quickly since they thrive in a wide range of environments. These include flood plains, pastures, wetlands, riparian areas, roadsides and backyards of residential areas. This weed is a problem throughout California where agencies in charge identify it as a noxious weed of enormous ecological concern.
Getting Rid of Peppergrass
The plants form new shoots from root buds in springtime. They form low-growing rosettes and flowering stems. The flowers produce seeds that mature in mid-summer. Peppergrass control is difficult since peppergrass weeds produce vast amounts of seeds. Their seeds grow quickly if they have enough water. Root segments produce buds that can generate new shoots. Peppergrass weeds store water in their extensive root system. This gives them a competitive advantage over other plants, where they crowd thickly into open areas and wetlands, shouldering out native plants that are beneficial to the environment. They can infest entire waterways and irrigation structures.
Cultural control of pepperweed plants starts with establishing competitive perennial vegetation. If your fields are full of vigorous sod-forming grasses, it will impede the spread of perennial pepperweed. Peppergrass control can also be achieved by planting herbaceous perennials in close rows, using shade trees and applying fabric or plastic mulches. You can also remove young plants by hand pulling them out. Burning is a good way of getting rid of accumulated thatch. Mowing is also useful for breaking up the mass of pepperweed, but it must be combined with herbicides. Otherwise, it produces new growth. Several herbicides available in commerce will control peppergrass weeds. You may have to apply them several times a year for several years to get rid of a dense buildup.
Perennial Pepperweed Information
Perennial pepperweed (Lepidium latifolium) is a long-lived herbaceous perennial that is invasive throughout the western United States. It is known by a number of other common names including tall whitetop, perennial peppercress, peppergrass, ironweed and broad-leaved pepperweed. Peppergrass weeds establish quickly since they thrive in a wide range of environments. These include flood plains, pastures, wetlands, riparian areas, roadsides and backyards of residential areas. This weed is a problem throughout California where agencies in charge identify it as a noxious weed of enormous ecological concern.
Getting Rid of Peppergrass
The plants form new shoots from root buds in springtime. They form low-growing rosettes and flowering stems. The flowers produce seeds that mature in mid-summer. Peppergrass control is difficult since peppergrass weeds produce vast amounts of seeds. Their seeds grow quickly if they have enough water. Root segments produce buds that can generate new shoots. Peppergrass weeds store water in their extensive root system. This gives them a competitive advantage over other plants, where they crowd thickly into open areas and wetlands, shouldering out native plants that are beneficial to the environment. They can infest entire waterways and irrigation structures.
Cultural control of pepperweed plants starts with establishing competitive perennial vegetation. If your fields are full of vigorous sod-forming grasses, it will impede the spread of perennial pepperweed. Peppergrass control can also be achieved by planting herbaceous perennials in close rows, using shade trees and applying fabric or plastic mulches. You can also remove young plants by hand pulling them out. Burning is a good way of getting rid of accumulated thatch. Mowing is also useful for breaking up the mass of pepperweed, but it must be combined with herbicides. Otherwise, it produces new growth. Several herbicides available in commerce will control peppergrass weeds. You may have to apply them several times a year for several years to get rid of a dense buildup.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Weeds are really just plants that have evolved to self-propagate rapidly. To most people they are a nuisance but to some, who recognize they are just plants, a boon. Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) is one such weed with a variety of beneficial uses from a food source to a medicinal treatment to nettle garden fertilizer. The nutrients in stinging nettle fertilizer are those same nutrients the plant contains which are beneficial to the human body such as many minerals, flavinoids, essential amino acids, proteins and vitamins. A nettle leaf plant food will have:
Chlorophyll
Nitrogen
Iron
Potassium
Copper
Zinc
Magnesium
Calcium
These nutrients, along with Vitamins A, B1, B5, C, D, E, and K, combine together to create a tonic and immune builder for both the garden and the body.
How to Make Stinging Nettle Manure (Fertilizer)
Nettle garden fertilizer is also referred to as stinging nettle manure, both because of its use as a food source for plants and also possibly in reference to its smell as it brews. There is a quick method for making nettle fertilizer and a long range method. Either method requires nettles, obviously which can either be picked in the spring or purchased at a health food store. Be sure to wear protective clothing and gloves if picking your own nettles and avoid picking near a road or other area where they may have been sprayed with chemicals. Quick method: For the quick method, steep 1 ounce of nettles in 1 cup of boiling water for 20 minutes to an hour, then strain the leaves and stems out and toss in the compost bin. Dilute the fertilizer 1:10 and it’s ready for use. This quick method will give a subtler result than the following method. Long range method: You can also make nettle garden fertilizer by filling a large jar or bucket with the leaves and stems, bruising the foliage first. Weight down the nettles with a brick, paving stone, or whatever you have laying around and then cover with water. Only fill three-quarters of the bucket with water to allow room for the foam that will be created during the brewing process. Use non-chlorinated water, possibly from a rain barrel, and set the bucket in a semi-sunny area, preferably away from the house since the process will likely be a tad smelly. Leave the mix for one to three weeks to ferment, stirring every couple of days until it stops bubbling.
Using Nettles as Fertilizer
Finally, strain out the nettles and dilute the concoction at one part fertilizer to 10 parts water for watering plants or 1:20 for direct foliar application. Undiluted mix makes an excellent organic herbicide and can be added to the compost bin to stimulate decomposition. When using nettles as fertilizer, remember that some plants, like tomatoes and roses, do not enjoy the high iron levels in nettle fertilizer.
This fertilizer works best on leafy plants and heavy feeders. Start with low concentrations and move on from there. Use some caution when using nettles as fertilizer since the mixture will undoubtedly still contain prickles, which can be quite painful. This free, albeit somewhat stinky food is easy to make and can continue to be topped off through the year by adding more leaves and water. At the end of the growing season, simply add the nettle dregs to the compost bin and put the whole process to bed until spring nettle picking time.
Chlorophyll
Nitrogen
Iron
Potassium
Copper
Zinc
Magnesium
Calcium
These nutrients, along with Vitamins A, B1, B5, C, D, E, and K, combine together to create a tonic and immune builder for both the garden and the body.
How to Make Stinging Nettle Manure (Fertilizer)
Nettle garden fertilizer is also referred to as stinging nettle manure, both because of its use as a food source for plants and also possibly in reference to its smell as it brews. There is a quick method for making nettle fertilizer and a long range method. Either method requires nettles, obviously which can either be picked in the spring or purchased at a health food store. Be sure to wear protective clothing and gloves if picking your own nettles and avoid picking near a road or other area where they may have been sprayed with chemicals. Quick method: For the quick method, steep 1 ounce of nettles in 1 cup of boiling water for 20 minutes to an hour, then strain the leaves and stems out and toss in the compost bin. Dilute the fertilizer 1:10 and it’s ready for use. This quick method will give a subtler result than the following method. Long range method: You can also make nettle garden fertilizer by filling a large jar or bucket with the leaves and stems, bruising the foliage first. Weight down the nettles with a brick, paving stone, or whatever you have laying around and then cover with water. Only fill three-quarters of the bucket with water to allow room for the foam that will be created during the brewing process. Use non-chlorinated water, possibly from a rain barrel, and set the bucket in a semi-sunny area, preferably away from the house since the process will likely be a tad smelly. Leave the mix for one to three weeks to ferment, stirring every couple of days until it stops bubbling.
Using Nettles as Fertilizer
Finally, strain out the nettles and dilute the concoction at one part fertilizer to 10 parts water for watering plants or 1:20 for direct foliar application. Undiluted mix makes an excellent organic herbicide and can be added to the compost bin to stimulate decomposition. When using nettles as fertilizer, remember that some plants, like tomatoes and roses, do not enjoy the high iron levels in nettle fertilizer.
This fertilizer works best on leafy plants and heavy feeders. Start with low concentrations and move on from there. Use some caution when using nettles as fertilizer since the mixture will undoubtedly still contain prickles, which can be quite painful. This free, albeit somewhat stinky food is easy to make and can continue to be topped off through the year by adding more leaves and water. At the end of the growing season, simply add the nettle dregs to the compost bin and put the whole process to bed until spring nettle picking time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
What is mushroom herb and exactly what can I do with it? Mushroom herb (Rungia klossii) is a leafy green plant with a distinctive mushroom-like flavor, hence the name. Cooks love to incorporate mushroom herb plants into pasta sauces, soups, sandwiches or any food that benefits from its mild, mushroom like flavor. Has this piqued your interest about mushroom herb plant? Read on to learn more.
Mushroom Herb Info
An attractive plant with shiny, deep green leaves and blue-violet flowers in springtime, mushroom herb plants usually top out at about 24 inches (60 cm.) at maturity. However, regular pinching and frequent harvesting prevents legginess and keeps the plant bushy and compact.
Mushroom plant thrives in rich soil, so dig 2 or 3 inches (5-7 cm.) of compost into the soil at planting time. Find a location where the plant is in partial shade or light sunlight, as mushroom herb plants tend to be smaller when exposed to a lot of direct sunlight or intense heat. Although this plant is relatively drought tolerant, it grows faster with regular irrigation. Mushroom herb plant hales from tropical climates and won’t tolerate extreme cold. If you live north of USDA planting zone 9, growing mushroom herb plants in the garden won’t be feasible. Instead, plant mushroom herb in a container and bring it indoors when temperatures drop in autumn.
Mushroom Plant Uses
Mushroom plant is an amazingly healthy plant, providing nutrients such as calcium, protein, iron, beta-carotene and vitamins A and C. Mushroom herb plants are also rich in chlorophyll, which herbalists appreciate for its blood cleansing properties. Mushroom plant herbs are great for people who choose not to eat fungi for health reasons, or those who enjoy the flavor of mushrooms but not the texture. Cooking actually brings out the distinctive mushroom-like flavor. Add leaves to cooked dishes at the last minute to prevent loss of color and nutrients.
Mushroom Herb Info
An attractive plant with shiny, deep green leaves and blue-violet flowers in springtime, mushroom herb plants usually top out at about 24 inches (60 cm.) at maturity. However, regular pinching and frequent harvesting prevents legginess and keeps the plant bushy and compact.
Mushroom plant thrives in rich soil, so dig 2 or 3 inches (5-7 cm.) of compost into the soil at planting time. Find a location where the plant is in partial shade or light sunlight, as mushroom herb plants tend to be smaller when exposed to a lot of direct sunlight or intense heat. Although this plant is relatively drought tolerant, it grows faster with regular irrigation. Mushroom herb plant hales from tropical climates and won’t tolerate extreme cold. If you live north of USDA planting zone 9, growing mushroom herb plants in the garden won’t be feasible. Instead, plant mushroom herb in a container and bring it indoors when temperatures drop in autumn.
Mushroom Plant Uses
Mushroom plant is an amazingly healthy plant, providing nutrients such as calcium, protein, iron, beta-carotene and vitamins A and C. Mushroom herb plants are also rich in chlorophyll, which herbalists appreciate for its blood cleansing properties. Mushroom plant herbs are great for people who choose not to eat fungi for health reasons, or those who enjoy the flavor of mushrooms but not the texture. Cooking actually brings out the distinctive mushroom-like flavor. Add leaves to cooked dishes at the last minute to prevent loss of color and nutrients.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Growing marjoram is a great way to add both flavor and fragrance in the kitchen or garden. Marjoram plants are also great for attracting butterflies and other beneficial insects to the garden, making them ideal for use as companion plantings. Let’s look at how to grow marjoram.
What is Marjoram?
Marjoram (Origanum majorana) is an easy to grow herb well suited for growing in containers as well as the garden. There are generally three varieties that are commonly grown: sweet marjoram, pot marjoram, and wild marjoram (also known as common oregano). All types of marjoram are popular for use in the kitchen as seasoning for numerous dishes. They’re also grown for their enticing fragrance.
How to Grow Marjoram Herbs
Although marjoram plants are tender perennials, they are typically treated as annuals as freezing temperatures will cause serious injury or death to the plants. When growing marjoram plants, it’s generally best to start the seeds indoors during late winter or early spring. Push seeds just below the soil surface. Seedlings can be transplanted outdoors once all threat of frost has passed. Marjoram should be located in areas receiving full sun with light, well-drained soil. Likewise, marjoram plants can be grown in containers indoors and treated as houseplants.
Marjoram Plant Care
Established plants require little care, other than occasional watering. Since marjoram is tolerant of drought, it makes an exceptional plant for beginner herb growers. If you forget to water it, that’s okay. There’s no need for fertilizer either when growing marjoram herbs. It’s hardy enough to basically care for itself. During mild weather, marjoram plants grown indoors can be taken outside and placed in a sunny area. However, container-grown plants should always be moved indoors or to another sheltered location once cold temperatures or frost is imminent.
Harvesting and Drying Marjoram Plants
In addition to growing marjoram herbs for aesthetic purposes, many people harvest the plant for use in the kitchen. When harvesting marjoram, pick the shoots just before flowers begin to open. This results in the best flavor, as fully opened blooms produce a bitter taste. Bundle marjoram cuttings and hang them upside down in a dark, dry, well-ventilated area. When you know how to grow marjoram, you can add it to your herb garden.
What is Marjoram?
Marjoram (Origanum majorana) is an easy to grow herb well suited for growing in containers as well as the garden. There are generally three varieties that are commonly grown: sweet marjoram, pot marjoram, and wild marjoram (also known as common oregano). All types of marjoram are popular for use in the kitchen as seasoning for numerous dishes. They’re also grown for their enticing fragrance.
How to Grow Marjoram Herbs
Although marjoram plants are tender perennials, they are typically treated as annuals as freezing temperatures will cause serious injury or death to the plants. When growing marjoram plants, it’s generally best to start the seeds indoors during late winter or early spring. Push seeds just below the soil surface. Seedlings can be transplanted outdoors once all threat of frost has passed. Marjoram should be located in areas receiving full sun with light, well-drained soil. Likewise, marjoram plants can be grown in containers indoors and treated as houseplants.
Marjoram Plant Care
Established plants require little care, other than occasional watering. Since marjoram is tolerant of drought, it makes an exceptional plant for beginner herb growers. If you forget to water it, that’s okay. There’s no need for fertilizer either when growing marjoram herbs. It’s hardy enough to basically care for itself. During mild weather, marjoram plants grown indoors can be taken outside and placed in a sunny area. However, container-grown plants should always be moved indoors or to another sheltered location once cold temperatures or frost is imminent.
Harvesting and Drying Marjoram Plants
In addition to growing marjoram herbs for aesthetic purposes, many people harvest the plant for use in the kitchen. When harvesting marjoram, pick the shoots just before flowers begin to open. This results in the best flavor, as fully opened blooms produce a bitter taste. Bundle marjoram cuttings and hang them upside down in a dark, dry, well-ventilated area. When you know how to grow marjoram, you can add it to your herb garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lovage plants (Levisticum officinale) grow like weeds. Fortunately, all parts of the lovage herb are usable and delicious. The plant is used in any recipe that calls for parsley or celery. It has a high salt content, so a little will go a long way but the stalks and stems are best used in carbohydrate-based dishes such as pasta and potato recipes.
Lovage Herb Uses
All parts of the herb are useable. The leaves are added to salads; the root is dug up at the end of the season and used as a vegetable. Stems can replace celery and the flower yields an aromatic oil. Interestingly, the lovage herb is a commonly used flavoring for confectionaries. You can use seeds and stems in candy making. The seeds are a common ingredient in flavored oils and vinegars, which steep in the liquid, releasing their flavor over time. Lovage herb is most commonly used in Europe where it flavors foods in Germany and Italy.
How to Grow Lovage
Lovage looks a bit like celery but is in the carrot family. The plants may grow up to 6 feet and bears lacy thick green foliage. The flowers are yellow and held in umbrella-shaped umbels. They grow 36 to 72 inches with a 32-inch spread. The base of the plant is comprised of thick, celery-like stems with glossy green leaves that decrease in number as you move up the stalk. The yellow flowers are arranged in umbel type clusters, which produce seeds 1/2 inch long. Sun and well-drained soils are the key to growing lovage. Growing lovage requires soil with a pH of 6.5 and sandy, loamy soils. Lovage plants are hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 4. Determining when to plant lovage is the first step in growing the herb. Direct sow lovage seed indoors five to six weeks before the date of the last frost. Sow seed on the surface of soil and dust with sand. The seeds may also be sown outside in late spring when soil temperatures have warmed to 60 degrees F. (16 C.).
Seedlings require consistent moisture until they are several inches tall and then irrigation may diminish. Transplant lovage plants 8 inches apart in rows 18 inches away from each other. Lovage will bloom earlier when planted indoors. You can expect flowers on transplanted plants in early summer that last until late summer. Leaf miners seem to be the primary pest of the plant and will damage the leaves with their feeding activity. Harvest lovage leaves at any time and dig out the root in autumn. Seeds will arrive late in summer or early spring and the stems are best when eaten young. Lovage has a reputation as a good companion plant for potatoes and other tubers and root crops. Food crops should be arranged in the vegetable garden to form the best alliances and make their growth better and healthier.
Lovage Herb Uses
All parts of the herb are useable. The leaves are added to salads; the root is dug up at the end of the season and used as a vegetable. Stems can replace celery and the flower yields an aromatic oil. Interestingly, the lovage herb is a commonly used flavoring for confectionaries. You can use seeds and stems in candy making. The seeds are a common ingredient in flavored oils and vinegars, which steep in the liquid, releasing their flavor over time. Lovage herb is most commonly used in Europe where it flavors foods in Germany and Italy.
How to Grow Lovage
Lovage looks a bit like celery but is in the carrot family. The plants may grow up to 6 feet and bears lacy thick green foliage. The flowers are yellow and held in umbrella-shaped umbels. They grow 36 to 72 inches with a 32-inch spread. The base of the plant is comprised of thick, celery-like stems with glossy green leaves that decrease in number as you move up the stalk. The yellow flowers are arranged in umbel type clusters, which produce seeds 1/2 inch long. Sun and well-drained soils are the key to growing lovage. Growing lovage requires soil with a pH of 6.5 and sandy, loamy soils. Lovage plants are hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 4. Determining when to plant lovage is the first step in growing the herb. Direct sow lovage seed indoors five to six weeks before the date of the last frost. Sow seed on the surface of soil and dust with sand. The seeds may also be sown outside in late spring when soil temperatures have warmed to 60 degrees F. (16 C.).
Seedlings require consistent moisture until they are several inches tall and then irrigation may diminish. Transplant lovage plants 8 inches apart in rows 18 inches away from each other. Lovage will bloom earlier when planted indoors. You can expect flowers on transplanted plants in early summer that last until late summer. Leaf miners seem to be the primary pest of the plant and will damage the leaves with their feeding activity. Harvest lovage leaves at any time and dig out the root in autumn. Seeds will arrive late in summer or early spring and the stems are best when eaten young. Lovage has a reputation as a good companion plant for potatoes and other tubers and root crops. Food crops should be arranged in the vegetable garden to form the best alliances and make their growth better and healthier.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemongrass is a popular plant to grow for its culinary possibilities. A common ingredient in Southeast Asian cuisine, it’s very easy to grow at home. And what’s more, you don’t even have to grow it from seed or buy plants at a nursery. Lemongrass propagates with a very high success rate from the cuttings you can buy at the grocery store. Keep reading to learn more about propagating a lemongrass plant and regrowing lemongrass plants in water.
Lemongrass Propagation in Water
Propagating a lemongrass plant is as easy as placing the stalks in a glass of water and hoping for the best. Lemongrass can be found in most Asian grocery stores as well as some larger supermarkets. When buying lemongrass for propagation, pick stalks that have as much of the bottom bulb still intact. There’s a chance there may be some roots still attached – and this is even better.
Rooting Lemongrass in Water
To encourage your lemongrass stalks to grow new roots, place them bulb down in a jar with an inch of water in the bottom. Rooting lemongrass in water may take as long as three weeks. Over the course of that time, the tops of the stalks should start to grow new leaves, and the bottoms of the bulbs should start to sprout new roots.
To prevent the growth of fungus, change the water in the jar every day or two. After two or three weeks, your lemongrass roots should be an inch or two long. Now you can transplant them to your garden or a container of rich, loamy soil. Lemongrass prefers full sun. It can’t tolerate frost, so if you experience cold winters, you’ll either have to grow it in a container or treat it as an outdoor annual.
Lemongrass Propagation in Water
Propagating a lemongrass plant is as easy as placing the stalks in a glass of water and hoping for the best. Lemongrass can be found in most Asian grocery stores as well as some larger supermarkets. When buying lemongrass for propagation, pick stalks that have as much of the bottom bulb still intact. There’s a chance there may be some roots still attached – and this is even better.
Rooting Lemongrass in Water
To encourage your lemongrass stalks to grow new roots, place them bulb down in a jar with an inch of water in the bottom. Rooting lemongrass in water may take as long as three weeks. Over the course of that time, the tops of the stalks should start to grow new leaves, and the bottoms of the bulbs should start to sprout new roots.
To prevent the growth of fungus, change the water in the jar every day or two. After two or three weeks, your lemongrass roots should be an inch or two long. Now you can transplant them to your garden or a container of rich, loamy soil. Lemongrass prefers full sun. It can’t tolerate frost, so if you experience cold winters, you’ll either have to grow it in a container or treat it as an outdoor annual.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemongrass is a sweet pungent, citrusy plant often used in Asian cooking. It is a sun-loving plant, so companion planting with lemongrass should include other plants that like to bask in plenty of heat and light. Not only is lemongrass a culinary seasoning, but it makes a soothing tea said to aid in sleep. This is an easy plant to grow with light frost tolerance in either the ground or containers. Pair it with plants that have the same growing conditions or make a fun culinary garden with flavors and textures that benefit from its unique sweet tanginess.
What to Plant with Lemongrass
Lemongrass contains citronella, a plant oil with pest repelling properties, especially mosquitoes. Using lemongrass among your patio plantings is an excellent way to enjoy your outdoors in summer without worrying about those disease transmitting insects.
Planting next to lemongrass provides a rich contrast for the golden leaves while the pungent oil helps prevent other pests. You can readily snap off the leaves and cover your skin with the natural oil to protect you and your family from dangerous mosquitoes and your plants from pests, like whiteflies. If you are new to gardening with this plant, you may wonder what to plant with lemongrass. While many traditional companion planting schemes exist, there is little information on lemongrass companion plants. That doesn’t mean it isn’t beneficial to other species in the garden, but it hasn’t been shown to accent other plant growth. Nonetheless, planting next to lemongrass can develop a quick pick dinner area that is easy to browse during meal preparation. Many fruits, vegetables and herbs that tend to be part of a recipe using lemongrass also flourish in the same growing conditions. East Indian and West Indian lemongrass are the two species most commonly used in cooking. The plants need rich, loose soil with good drainage and plenty of moisture to thrive.
Lemongrass Companion Plants
Herb containers on the back porch or patio provide convenient, fresh seasoning choices just off the kitchen. Some great ways of companion planting with lemongrass are by using herbs, which appreciate full sun and well-drained soil. Possible options include:
Cilantro
Basil
Thyme
Mint
Lemon verbena
Echinacea
Marigolds
All of these have culinary and medicinal properties and can be part of seasoning blends for many recipes. Container gardening also allows you to bring the pot indoors if a severe freeze threatens. Remember, lemongrass can get 3 to 6 feet tall, so use other herbs at the edges of the pots so they are not shaded by the lemongrass.
Lemongrass is grown in Guatemala, India, Paraguay, England, Sri Lanka, China, and other parts of Indochina, Africa, Central America, and South America. If possible, choose lemongrass companions from the same region such as galangal, ginger, and turmeric, which do well when planted nearby. Traditional crops include mangos, cucumbers, fennel and onions. Be careful about intercropping, as the roots can spread out and eventually take over an area. In areas under fruit trees, like citrus, lemongrass makes an attractive ground cover, reducing weeds and keeping moisture in the soil. It is also useful when planted with tomatoes, peppers, and tomatillos, who prefer the same growing conditions. As an added bonus, lemongrass goes well in dishes that use these fruits. Many lemongrass companions might be edible but its lime-toned, grassy leaves make a perfect backdrop for geraniums, hardy hibiscus, and many more summer blooming plants.
What to Plant with Lemongrass
Lemongrass contains citronella, a plant oil with pest repelling properties, especially mosquitoes. Using lemongrass among your patio plantings is an excellent way to enjoy your outdoors in summer without worrying about those disease transmitting insects.
Planting next to lemongrass provides a rich contrast for the golden leaves while the pungent oil helps prevent other pests. You can readily snap off the leaves and cover your skin with the natural oil to protect you and your family from dangerous mosquitoes and your plants from pests, like whiteflies. If you are new to gardening with this plant, you may wonder what to plant with lemongrass. While many traditional companion planting schemes exist, there is little information on lemongrass companion plants. That doesn’t mean it isn’t beneficial to other species in the garden, but it hasn’t been shown to accent other plant growth. Nonetheless, planting next to lemongrass can develop a quick pick dinner area that is easy to browse during meal preparation. Many fruits, vegetables and herbs that tend to be part of a recipe using lemongrass also flourish in the same growing conditions. East Indian and West Indian lemongrass are the two species most commonly used in cooking. The plants need rich, loose soil with good drainage and plenty of moisture to thrive.
Lemongrass Companion Plants
Herb containers on the back porch or patio provide convenient, fresh seasoning choices just off the kitchen. Some great ways of companion planting with lemongrass are by using herbs, which appreciate full sun and well-drained soil. Possible options include:
Cilantro
Basil
Thyme
Mint
Lemon verbena
Echinacea
Marigolds
All of these have culinary and medicinal properties and can be part of seasoning blends for many recipes. Container gardening also allows you to bring the pot indoors if a severe freeze threatens. Remember, lemongrass can get 3 to 6 feet tall, so use other herbs at the edges of the pots so they are not shaded by the lemongrass.
Lemongrass is grown in Guatemala, India, Paraguay, England, Sri Lanka, China, and other parts of Indochina, Africa, Central America, and South America. If possible, choose lemongrass companions from the same region such as galangal, ginger, and turmeric, which do well when planted nearby. Traditional crops include mangos, cucumbers, fennel and onions. Be careful about intercropping, as the roots can spread out and eventually take over an area. In areas under fruit trees, like citrus, lemongrass makes an attractive ground cover, reducing weeds and keeping moisture in the soil. It is also useful when planted with tomatoes, peppers, and tomatillos, who prefer the same growing conditions. As an added bonus, lemongrass goes well in dishes that use these fruits. Many lemongrass companions might be edible but its lime-toned, grassy leaves make a perfect backdrop for geraniums, hardy hibiscus, and many more summer blooming plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemon balm plants tend to be pass-along plants that a gardener ends up with from plant swaps or as gifts from other gardeners. This can leave a gardener wondering what to do with lemon balm and what is lemon balm used for exactly. While not as popular as other herbs, lemon balm is nevertheless a wonderful herb to have in your garden. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow lemon balm.
What is Lemon Balm?
The lemon balm plant (Melissa officinalis) is actually a member of the mint family and is a perennial herb. It grows as a bushy, leafy herb with a pleasant lemon smell and small white flowers. If not carefully controlled, lemon balm can quickly become invasive in the garden. Often, people mistakenly think that lemon balm is invasive due to its roots, like its cousins peppermint and spearmint, but in fact it is the seeds of the lemon balm plant that cause this herb to suddenly take over a garden. Removing the flowers of the plant as soon as they appear will make your lemon balm far less invasive.
How to Grow Lemon Balm Plants
Growing lemon balm is very easy. The plants aren’t picky about where they grow and will grow in almost any soil, but they prefer rich, well drained soil. Lemon balm plants will grow in part shade to full sun, but flourish best in full sun. It isn’t recommended that you fertilize lemon balm, as this can cause the strength of its scent to be reduced. Lemon balm is easily propagated from seeds, cuttings or plant divisions.
What is Lemon Balm Used For?
Once established, lemon balm can produce large amounts of its sweet, lemon smelling leaves. These leaves can be used for a variety of things. Most commonly, lemon balm leaves are used in teas and potpourris. You can also use lemon balm in cooking, in making essential oils and as an insect repellent.
What is Lemon Balm?
The lemon balm plant (Melissa officinalis) is actually a member of the mint family and is a perennial herb. It grows as a bushy, leafy herb with a pleasant lemon smell and small white flowers. If not carefully controlled, lemon balm can quickly become invasive in the garden. Often, people mistakenly think that lemon balm is invasive due to its roots, like its cousins peppermint and spearmint, but in fact it is the seeds of the lemon balm plant that cause this herb to suddenly take over a garden. Removing the flowers of the plant as soon as they appear will make your lemon balm far less invasive.
How to Grow Lemon Balm Plants
Growing lemon balm is very easy. The plants aren’t picky about where they grow and will grow in almost any soil, but they prefer rich, well drained soil. Lemon balm plants will grow in part shade to full sun, but flourish best in full sun. It isn’t recommended that you fertilize lemon balm, as this can cause the strength of its scent to be reduced. Lemon balm is easily propagated from seeds, cuttings or plant divisions.
What is Lemon Balm Used For?
Once established, lemon balm can produce large amounts of its sweet, lemon smelling leaves. These leaves can be used for a variety of things. Most commonly, lemon balm leaves are used in teas and potpourris. You can also use lemon balm in cooking, in making essential oils and as an insect repellent.
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