文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Growing interrupted fern plants, Osmunda claytonia, is easy. Native to the Midwest and Northeast, these shade-tolerant plants grow in woodland sites. Gardeners add them to plantings of Solomon’s seal and hostas, or use the ferns to create a shaded border. Interrupted ferns even do well as erosion control plants on shaded slopes.
What is an Interrupted Fern?
Interrupted fern plants grow a vase-shaped rosette of erect to nearly erect 2- to 4-foot (.60 to 1.2 m.) high leaves. The common name for these ferns is derived from the broad fronds being “interrupted” in the middle by three to seven spore-bearing leaflets, called pinnae. These middle leaflets, which are also the longest ones on the frond, wither and fall off in mid-summer leaving a blank space or gap on the stem. The leaflets above and below this interruption are sterile – they do not bear sporangia.
Interrupted Fern Care
This eastern North America native plant grows well in USDA zones 3-8. In the wild, it grows in shaded sites that are moderately wet. Growing interrupted ferns prefer sites with filtered sunlight, moist conditions, and sandy loam soils that are slightly acidic. Interrupted fern care is minimal as long as the soil has adequate organic content, there is sufficient humidity, and the site offers protection from prevailing winds to prevent drying out. The plants may grow in more direct sunlight if their roots are in moist soil. In spring, the plant’s dense mass of roots or rhizomes may be divided. These rhizomes are commercially harvested to create orchid peat used as a rooting medium for epiphytic orchids.
Interrupted Fern vs. Cinnamon Fern
Distinguishing interrupted fern over cinnamon fern, Osmunda cinnamomea, plants is difficult when just infertile leaves are present. Here is some interrupted fern info to help tell these plants apart:
Cinnamon fern petioles are more woolly-brown.
Cinnamon fern leaflets have pointed tips versus rounded tips of interrupted ferns.
Cinnamon fern leaflets also bear tufts of persistent, woolly hairs at the base of their stems.
Cinnamon ferns bear sporangia over the entire leaflet, whereas interrupted ferns plants only in the middle of their fertile leaves.
For more interrupted fern info, contact a local nursery or extension office in your area.
What is an Interrupted Fern?
Interrupted fern plants grow a vase-shaped rosette of erect to nearly erect 2- to 4-foot (.60 to 1.2 m.) high leaves. The common name for these ferns is derived from the broad fronds being “interrupted” in the middle by three to seven spore-bearing leaflets, called pinnae. These middle leaflets, which are also the longest ones on the frond, wither and fall off in mid-summer leaving a blank space or gap on the stem. The leaflets above and below this interruption are sterile – they do not bear sporangia.
Interrupted Fern Care
This eastern North America native plant grows well in USDA zones 3-8. In the wild, it grows in shaded sites that are moderately wet. Growing interrupted ferns prefer sites with filtered sunlight, moist conditions, and sandy loam soils that are slightly acidic. Interrupted fern care is minimal as long as the soil has adequate organic content, there is sufficient humidity, and the site offers protection from prevailing winds to prevent drying out. The plants may grow in more direct sunlight if their roots are in moist soil. In spring, the plant’s dense mass of roots or rhizomes may be divided. These rhizomes are commercially harvested to create orchid peat used as a rooting medium for epiphytic orchids.
Interrupted Fern vs. Cinnamon Fern
Distinguishing interrupted fern over cinnamon fern, Osmunda cinnamomea, plants is difficult when just infertile leaves are present. Here is some interrupted fern info to help tell these plants apart:
Cinnamon fern petioles are more woolly-brown.
Cinnamon fern leaflets have pointed tips versus rounded tips of interrupted ferns.
Cinnamon fern leaflets also bear tufts of persistent, woolly hairs at the base of their stems.
Cinnamon ferns bear sporangia over the entire leaflet, whereas interrupted ferns plants only in the middle of their fertile leaves.
For more interrupted fern info, contact a local nursery or extension office in your area.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hosta plants are popular perennials grown for their foliage. Generally, these carefree plants, which thrive in shady locations, suffer from few problems. However, occasional problems with hostas do occur, so knowing what to look for is important in order to treat or prevent further hostas problems.
Common Hosta Pests
What causes holes in hosta leaves? This is one of the most common questions associated with hosta plants. Essentially when bugs are eating hostas, slugs or snails are usually to blame. These nighttime foragers are probably considered the most common of hosta pests, eating small holes in the leaves. Silvery-colored slime or snail trail throughout the garden area is a good indication of their presence. Control of these slugs may include the use of beer traps, which they crawl into and die.
Another insect pest that chews hosta leaves is the adult black vine weevil. Signs of this insect are irregular notches along the outer edges of leaves. Their larvae also pose a problem by feeding on the crown and roots of hosta plants, resulting in yellow, wilted foliage.
Nematodes, which are microscopic roundworms, typically cause disease by infecting hosta plants much like fungi or bacteria. As with fungal infections, they thrive in moist conditions. Nematodes often feed within the leaves, producing brown areas between the veins, which result in an almost striped appearance. This generally occurs in late summer. Affected plants should be destroyed. You can prevent most nematode attacks by providing adequate spacing between plants, avoiding wet foliage through the use of soaker hoses, and removing and destroying all infected plants. Think just bugs are eating hostas? Think again. Deer and rabbits will oftentimes feast on hosta plants. In fact, deer may leave only stalks where beautiful hosta foliage once was while rabbits usually prefer nibbling on the young shoots.
Common Hosta Diseases
Anthracnose is one of the most common diseases affecting hosta plants. This fungal disease thrives in warm, wet weather. The most obvious sign of anthracnose includes large, irregular spots surrounded by a dark border. Once the centers of the spots fall out, the leaves may look torn and can sometimes be mistaken for pest damage. As with nematode prevention, try to keep good distance between plants and avoid overhead watering which results in wet foliage. The use of fungicide spray in spring may be helpful as well. However, look for those that specifically target this disease.
Another fungus that affects hosta plants is Sclerotium blight. This disease first targets the lower leaves but then quickly spreads to the upper ones causing a path of wilted, brown leaves. In addition, there is usually a fluffy, white mass on the petioles. This particular fungus is difficult to control, as it lives in the soil and overwinters beneath mulch. Therefore, it often helps to pull back any mulch from the plant. Crown rot also affects hostas and is often caused by overly wet situations. This disease usually results in yellow foliage, stunted growth, and root rot.
Common Hosta Pests
What causes holes in hosta leaves? This is one of the most common questions associated with hosta plants. Essentially when bugs are eating hostas, slugs or snails are usually to blame. These nighttime foragers are probably considered the most common of hosta pests, eating small holes in the leaves. Silvery-colored slime or snail trail throughout the garden area is a good indication of their presence. Control of these slugs may include the use of beer traps, which they crawl into and die.
Another insect pest that chews hosta leaves is the adult black vine weevil. Signs of this insect are irregular notches along the outer edges of leaves. Their larvae also pose a problem by feeding on the crown and roots of hosta plants, resulting in yellow, wilted foliage.
Nematodes, which are microscopic roundworms, typically cause disease by infecting hosta plants much like fungi or bacteria. As with fungal infections, they thrive in moist conditions. Nematodes often feed within the leaves, producing brown areas between the veins, which result in an almost striped appearance. This generally occurs in late summer. Affected plants should be destroyed. You can prevent most nematode attacks by providing adequate spacing between plants, avoiding wet foliage through the use of soaker hoses, and removing and destroying all infected plants. Think just bugs are eating hostas? Think again. Deer and rabbits will oftentimes feast on hosta plants. In fact, deer may leave only stalks where beautiful hosta foliage once was while rabbits usually prefer nibbling on the young shoots.
Common Hosta Diseases
Anthracnose is one of the most common diseases affecting hosta plants. This fungal disease thrives in warm, wet weather. The most obvious sign of anthracnose includes large, irregular spots surrounded by a dark border. Once the centers of the spots fall out, the leaves may look torn and can sometimes be mistaken for pest damage. As with nematode prevention, try to keep good distance between plants and avoid overhead watering which results in wet foliage. The use of fungicide spray in spring may be helpful as well. However, look for those that specifically target this disease.
Another fungus that affects hosta plants is Sclerotium blight. This disease first targets the lower leaves but then quickly spreads to the upper ones causing a path of wilted, brown leaves. In addition, there is usually a fluffy, white mass on the petioles. This particular fungus is difficult to control, as it lives in the soil and overwinters beneath mulch. Therefore, it often helps to pull back any mulch from the plant. Crown rot also affects hostas and is often caused by overly wet situations. This disease usually results in yellow foliage, stunted growth, and root rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hostas make a lovely shade garden plant but there is no reason that these hardy and versatile foliage plants need to remain tucked away in your shade garden. Hostas will also thrive in containers and look wonderful accenting a shady patio or porch. Also, if you have serious trouble with slugs in your garden, container gardening with your hostas may be the answer.
How to Plant Hosta Plants in Containers
To plant your hostas in containers:
Fill the base of the pot you’ve chosen with rocks for drainage. One or two inches will do. Fill the pot with your choice of soil mix. Don’t fill it completely just yet, though. Place a handful of slow release fertilizer in the container. Add a little bit of soil to the fertilizer, mix it up well and then put the hosta on top of that. Remove the hosta from its growing pot and fork over the rootball to help free the roots. This will help the plant establish quickly in the new container, but will not damage the roots. Center the hosta in the pot and then fill the container with more soil. Make sure you water the plant carefully. Finally, cover the surface of the container with a thick layer of small pebbles. This stops any slugs and will help keep the roots of your hosta cool. It’s also going to prevent the soil from drying quickly.
Remember that hostas in containers need water regularly. Make sure you water them below the leaf canopy and around the crowns. Excessive wetting can mark the leaves. At the same time, make sure that the container you plant your hostas in has good drainage. This is important to keep root rot from setting in. You can tuck in a few other shade loving flowers and plants as well. Hostas make a wonderful backdrop to help make the colors of the flowers pop. Even on their own, hostas can help add a tropical feel to a shady but soilless area in your garden.
How to Plant Hosta Plants in Containers
To plant your hostas in containers:
Fill the base of the pot you’ve chosen with rocks for drainage. One or two inches will do. Fill the pot with your choice of soil mix. Don’t fill it completely just yet, though. Place a handful of slow release fertilizer in the container. Add a little bit of soil to the fertilizer, mix it up well and then put the hosta on top of that. Remove the hosta from its growing pot and fork over the rootball to help free the roots. This will help the plant establish quickly in the new container, but will not damage the roots. Center the hosta in the pot and then fill the container with more soil. Make sure you water the plant carefully. Finally, cover the surface of the container with a thick layer of small pebbles. This stops any slugs and will help keep the roots of your hosta cool. It’s also going to prevent the soil from drying quickly.
Remember that hostas in containers need water regularly. Make sure you water them below the leaf canopy and around the crowns. Excessive wetting can mark the leaves. At the same time, make sure that the container you plant your hostas in has good drainage. This is important to keep root rot from setting in. You can tuck in a few other shade loving flowers and plants as well. Hostas make a wonderful backdrop to help make the colors of the flowers pop. Even on their own, hostas can help add a tropical feel to a shady but soilless area in your garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
One of the boldest and easiest to grow perennial plants is the hosta. These large leaved beauties come in a range of sizes and hues and thrive in semi-shady areas of the garden with little extra care. However, pests on hosta plants can damage the exceptional foliage and diminish the plant’s health. Check out some of the common hosta pests so you know what to look for and how to control these damaging little devils.
Recognizing Pests on Hosta Plants
Native to Asia, hosta plants now come in a range of cultivars and species readily available to gardeners. While hostas are fairly self-sufficient, hosta insect pests can really wreak havoc on the attractive leaves. Hosta plants are primarily grown for their majestic foliage, although they do produce lovely racemes of flowers that add to the stature of this low light loving plant.
It is best to get on the ground floor of hosta pest control right as the new leaves are beginning to poke through the soil in early spring. Waiting to address pests on hosta plants may find you with shredded, discolored or deformed leaves, diminishing the beauty of the plant. Some of the damage by insects will be easily recognizable. That is especially true for chewing insects who will make holes in leaves, remove the edges of foliage and leave your prized hosta looking like a ragged version of itself.
Other hosta insect pests cause more subtle damage. Hosta leaf nematode damage may be mistaken for a disease. These microscopic roundworms cause unsightly leaves that begin with yellowing streaks and develops into reddish brown widened areas of damage between the veins. Completely wilted plants that collapse upon themselves may be victims to voles, who tunnel under the plant and eat the roots. If you wake up one morning and find that you have absolutely no hosta foliage at all, you probably live in deer country. Hostas are just like candy to these foragers. Fences and repellents may be effective.
Common Hosta Pests
Outside of deer, rabbits and voles, hosta insect pests will be the most frequent issue. By far the most widespread damage in temperate, moist regions will be from slugs and snails. Their feeding activity leaves smooth chunks missing from the foliage. You can discern their presence by spotting the slime trails they leave behind. These pests are nocturnal and hide in mulch but a good organic slug and snail bait should prevent widespread damage. Other chompers who view the hosta plant as a buffet might be cutworms blister beetles and grasshoppers. These eat the leaves and chew into the veins, leaving behind shot holes, ragged gaps and tears at the edges of leaves. The timing of hosta pest control for these insects is critical to a successful fight and undamaged leaves.
Treating Bugs on Hosta Plants
There are many broad spectrum pesticides on the market, but it is best to avoid these as they may also target beneficial insects. Slug and snail baits are available and should be applied around the hosta garden in early spring and consistently after rains and irrigation. You may also try burying a small can or container at the hosta borders filled with an inch or so of beer. Protect young hosta shoots from cutworms by surrounding the new foliage with a physical barrier such as a cardboard ring. Remove it once the new shoots are a couple of inches off the ground.
Other hosta pests are a bit harder to control without chemicals. Choose a non-toxic formula and apply in early spring when the pests are in their nymph stage. Nematodes can be combated with purchased beneficial nematodes. For larger insects you can simply pluck them off the foliage and destroy the pest. Slugs, snails and cutworms will be found at night so get a good flashlight and smashing boots to save your hostas from these damaging nuisances.
Recognizing Pests on Hosta Plants
Native to Asia, hosta plants now come in a range of cultivars and species readily available to gardeners. While hostas are fairly self-sufficient, hosta insect pests can really wreak havoc on the attractive leaves. Hosta plants are primarily grown for their majestic foliage, although they do produce lovely racemes of flowers that add to the stature of this low light loving plant.
It is best to get on the ground floor of hosta pest control right as the new leaves are beginning to poke through the soil in early spring. Waiting to address pests on hosta plants may find you with shredded, discolored or deformed leaves, diminishing the beauty of the plant. Some of the damage by insects will be easily recognizable. That is especially true for chewing insects who will make holes in leaves, remove the edges of foliage and leave your prized hosta looking like a ragged version of itself.
Other hosta insect pests cause more subtle damage. Hosta leaf nematode damage may be mistaken for a disease. These microscopic roundworms cause unsightly leaves that begin with yellowing streaks and develops into reddish brown widened areas of damage between the veins. Completely wilted plants that collapse upon themselves may be victims to voles, who tunnel under the plant and eat the roots. If you wake up one morning and find that you have absolutely no hosta foliage at all, you probably live in deer country. Hostas are just like candy to these foragers. Fences and repellents may be effective.
Common Hosta Pests
Outside of deer, rabbits and voles, hosta insect pests will be the most frequent issue. By far the most widespread damage in temperate, moist regions will be from slugs and snails. Their feeding activity leaves smooth chunks missing from the foliage. You can discern their presence by spotting the slime trails they leave behind. These pests are nocturnal and hide in mulch but a good organic slug and snail bait should prevent widespread damage. Other chompers who view the hosta plant as a buffet might be cutworms blister beetles and grasshoppers. These eat the leaves and chew into the veins, leaving behind shot holes, ragged gaps and tears at the edges of leaves. The timing of hosta pest control for these insects is critical to a successful fight and undamaged leaves.
Treating Bugs on Hosta Plants
There are many broad spectrum pesticides on the market, but it is best to avoid these as they may also target beneficial insects. Slug and snail baits are available and should be applied around the hosta garden in early spring and consistently after rains and irrigation. You may also try burying a small can or container at the hosta borders filled with an inch or so of beer. Protect young hosta shoots from cutworms by surrounding the new foliage with a physical barrier such as a cardboard ring. Remove it once the new shoots are a couple of inches off the ground.
Other hosta pests are a bit harder to control without chemicals. Choose a non-toxic formula and apply in early spring when the pests are in their nymph stage. Nematodes can be combated with purchased beneficial nematodes. For larger insects you can simply pluck them off the foliage and destroy the pest. Slugs, snails and cutworms will be found at night so get a good flashlight and smashing boots to save your hostas from these damaging nuisances.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Gardeners go for hosta plants because of their lush greenery and shade tolerance. These popular shade plants offer an entrancing variety of foliage, from smooth leaves to puckered leaves, green or yellow or blue leaves, and leaves the size of a quarter to leaves as big as a plate. But pests can attack foliage and make it ragged. And come winter, the foliage of these perennials wilt and die back. These are the times to sanitize your pruners and get to cutting back hosta plants. Read on for information on how to prune hostas.
Can You Cut Back Hostas?
Can you cut back hostas? Yes, there’s no law against pruning hosta plants, and if you decide to undertake the task, your garden will thank you. For example, you can begin cutting back hosta plants if you don’t want the hosta flowers.
It may seem odd to snip off the flowers from an ornamental, but keep in mind that the glory of hostas is their foliage. Some find that the blossoms distract from the glorious mound of overlapping leaves. These gardeners snip off the flowers stems as they appear. On the other hand, the blossoms are delicate and some smell heavenly. If you decide to let the plants flower, don’t snip them off until they begin to wilt.
When to Cut Back a Hosta
When to cut back a hosta depends on why you are cutting back hosta plants. You may have noticed that pests love hosta as much as you do: snails, slugs, rabbits and even deer dine on it occasionally, leaving the plant unsightly. You’ll want to start pruning hosta plants as soon as you notice any pest damage. Cleaning up dead leaves helps prevent further damage from slugs and snails, and makes the munched plant look better.
How to Prune Hostas in the Winter
In autumn, hosta leaves turn shades of yellow and gold, then fade. This is the beginning of the plant’s dormant season, so you won’t see any more pretty foliage until spring. This is the time to get rid of dead leaves, so you’ll want to learn how to prune hostas in early winter. Dead leaves are pest friendly, so you’ll do well to start pruning hosta plants as the foliage fades. Trim back all the leaves and foliage at ground level, then back it up and dispose of it. That helps things look neat in the garden and keeps bugs from overwintering snugly in the dead leaves.
Can You Cut Back Hostas?
Can you cut back hostas? Yes, there’s no law against pruning hosta plants, and if you decide to undertake the task, your garden will thank you. For example, you can begin cutting back hosta plants if you don’t want the hosta flowers.
It may seem odd to snip off the flowers from an ornamental, but keep in mind that the glory of hostas is their foliage. Some find that the blossoms distract from the glorious mound of overlapping leaves. These gardeners snip off the flowers stems as they appear. On the other hand, the blossoms are delicate and some smell heavenly. If you decide to let the plants flower, don’t snip them off until they begin to wilt.
When to Cut Back a Hosta
When to cut back a hosta depends on why you are cutting back hosta plants. You may have noticed that pests love hosta as much as you do: snails, slugs, rabbits and even deer dine on it occasionally, leaving the plant unsightly. You’ll want to start pruning hosta plants as soon as you notice any pest damage. Cleaning up dead leaves helps prevent further damage from slugs and snails, and makes the munched plant look better.
How to Prune Hostas in the Winter
In autumn, hosta leaves turn shades of yellow and gold, then fade. This is the beginning of the plant’s dormant season, so you won’t see any more pretty foliage until spring. This is the time to get rid of dead leaves, so you’ll want to learn how to prune hostas in early winter. Dead leaves are pest friendly, so you’ll do well to start pruning hosta plants as the foliage fades. Trim back all the leaves and foliage at ground level, then back it up and dispose of it. That helps things look neat in the garden and keeps bugs from overwintering snugly in the dead leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Do hosta plants have flowers? Yes, they do. Hosta plants grow flowers, and some are lovely and fragrant. But hosta plants are known for their gorgeous overlapping leaves, not for hosta plant flowers. Read on for information about flowers on hosta plants and for an answer to the question: should you let hosta grow flowers.
Do Hosta Plants Have Flowers?
Every hosta plant grows flowers. But not every hosta plant flowering is a welcome sight to the gardener. Many gardeners select hostas for the shade garden because of their lush foliage, not hosta plant flowers. The mounding leaves of cultivars can be spectacular, ranging in color from standard green to blues, white and gold. They also come in many shapes, sizes and textures. For example, if you want a very small hosta, you can plant “Baby Bunting” that even at maturity is only a few inches wide. Other hosta plants, like “Blue Angel,” can grow to over 8 feet in diameter. Because of this emphasis on foliage, hosta flowers can be viewed as an extra plus for the plant. They can also been seen as a distraction from the main show.
Flowers on Hosta Plants
Hosta plant flowering can be a very fancy affair. The plants flower in summer, offering spikes of blossoms that look like lilies, in shades of lavender or white. The bell-shaped blooms can be showy and exceptionally fragrant, attracting hummingbirds and bees. New cultivars are being developed that offer even larger, more impressive blooms. Some offer up to 75 flowers per stem. In short, hosta flowers can add ornamental value to a hosta plant. Yet, many gardeners still ask: should you let hosta grow flowers?
Should You Let Hosta Grow Flowers?
Whether you want pure foliage or will accept hosta plant flowers is a matter of personal taste. Each gardener must make up his or her own mind. The quality of the blossoms your hosta plant flowering produces might influence your decision. Many gardeners like tall flower scapes, but not every plant produces them. Sometimes, especially with the white-flowered hostas, the flower scapes are awkwardly short and stunted. And whether or not you allow them to bloom, you’ll want to clip the scapes when the blossoms fade. Faded hosta flowers are not attractive.
Do Hosta Plants Have Flowers?
Every hosta plant grows flowers. But not every hosta plant flowering is a welcome sight to the gardener. Many gardeners select hostas for the shade garden because of their lush foliage, not hosta plant flowers. The mounding leaves of cultivars can be spectacular, ranging in color from standard green to blues, white and gold. They also come in many shapes, sizes and textures. For example, if you want a very small hosta, you can plant “Baby Bunting” that even at maturity is only a few inches wide. Other hosta plants, like “Blue Angel,” can grow to over 8 feet in diameter. Because of this emphasis on foliage, hosta flowers can be viewed as an extra plus for the plant. They can also been seen as a distraction from the main show.
Flowers on Hosta Plants
Hosta plant flowering can be a very fancy affair. The plants flower in summer, offering spikes of blossoms that look like lilies, in shades of lavender or white. The bell-shaped blooms can be showy and exceptionally fragrant, attracting hummingbirds and bees. New cultivars are being developed that offer even larger, more impressive blooms. Some offer up to 75 flowers per stem. In short, hosta flowers can add ornamental value to a hosta plant. Yet, many gardeners still ask: should you let hosta grow flowers?
Should You Let Hosta Grow Flowers?
Whether you want pure foliage or will accept hosta plant flowers is a matter of personal taste. Each gardener must make up his or her own mind. The quality of the blossoms your hosta plant flowering produces might influence your decision. Many gardeners like tall flower scapes, but not every plant produces them. Sometimes, especially with the white-flowered hostas, the flower scapes are awkwardly short and stunted. And whether or not you allow them to bloom, you’ll want to clip the scapes when the blossoms fade. Faded hosta flowers are not attractive.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hosta plants are a perennial favorite among gardeners. Their lush foliage and easy care make them ideal for a low maintenance garden. Originating in the Orient and brought to the Europe in the 1700s, today there are over 2,500 cultivars with such variety in leaf shape, size and texture, that an entire garden could be devoted to growing hostas alone. While hosta care is considered easy, it helps to know a little bit about how to grow hostas to help the plants reach their full garden potential.
Where and How to Grow Hostas
Although hosta plants are touted as shade lovers, their sunlight requirements vary widely. Successfully growing hostas in the shade depends on color. Hosta leaves come in a variety of greens, ranging from a color so deep it’s called blue to a light chartreuse to a soft creamy white.
A good rule of thumb for the placement and care of hostas is the lighter the foliage, the brighter the sun. The deeper darker foliage retains it color best in moderate shade. The variegated varieties need more sunlight to keep their white and gold stripes. All hostas need some shade and few, if any, will do well in strong direct sunlight. They will fully mature in four to eight years.
For the best care of hostas, plant them in rich organic soil with a slightly acidic pH. You’ll only have to do it once. Dig the planting hole about a foot deep, and wide enough to accommodate the spread of a full sized plant. This will make it easier for the roots to establish a foothold and begin their horizontal spread. In spite of their almost tropical look, hostas are rugged and once established, they tolerate almost any soil and will grow for years. When discussing how to grow hostas, drainage is most important. Dormant season crown rot is one of the few diseases that attack these plants. Good hosta care requires good drainage. When newly planted, keep the roots moist, not wet. Once established, hosta plants aren’t fussy and are very tolerant of summer drought.
Tips for Hosta Care
Once your plant is established, hosta care becomes a matter of simple maintenance. To keep your growing hostas healthy, fertilize them each spring with an all-purpose garden fertilizer. Additional summer fertilizing may be helpful, but not necessary. Granular fertilizers should never sit on the leaves. With the exception of crown rot and leaf rot, Hosta plants are relatively disease free. Deer find the tasty and if deer are a problem in your neighborhood, you might try planting daffodils around your hosta to keep them away from the emerging shoots. Another difficulty in hosta care is slugs, which leave unsightly holes in the leaves. A light scattering of sand around your plants will help keep them away.
Hosta plants are a beautiful addition to any garden and fit well in a variety of spaces, ranging from a few inches to four feet across. Care of hostas is easy and now you’ve discovered the basics of how to grow hostas, you’ll find them a welcome addition to your yard.
Where and How to Grow Hostas
Although hosta plants are touted as shade lovers, their sunlight requirements vary widely. Successfully growing hostas in the shade depends on color. Hosta leaves come in a variety of greens, ranging from a color so deep it’s called blue to a light chartreuse to a soft creamy white.
A good rule of thumb for the placement and care of hostas is the lighter the foliage, the brighter the sun. The deeper darker foliage retains it color best in moderate shade. The variegated varieties need more sunlight to keep their white and gold stripes. All hostas need some shade and few, if any, will do well in strong direct sunlight. They will fully mature in four to eight years.
For the best care of hostas, plant them in rich organic soil with a slightly acidic pH. You’ll only have to do it once. Dig the planting hole about a foot deep, and wide enough to accommodate the spread of a full sized plant. This will make it easier for the roots to establish a foothold and begin their horizontal spread. In spite of their almost tropical look, hostas are rugged and once established, they tolerate almost any soil and will grow for years. When discussing how to grow hostas, drainage is most important. Dormant season crown rot is one of the few diseases that attack these plants. Good hosta care requires good drainage. When newly planted, keep the roots moist, not wet. Once established, hosta plants aren’t fussy and are very tolerant of summer drought.
Tips for Hosta Care
Once your plant is established, hosta care becomes a matter of simple maintenance. To keep your growing hostas healthy, fertilize them each spring with an all-purpose garden fertilizer. Additional summer fertilizing may be helpful, but not necessary. Granular fertilizers should never sit on the leaves. With the exception of crown rot and leaf rot, Hosta plants are relatively disease free. Deer find the tasty and if deer are a problem in your neighborhood, you might try planting daffodils around your hosta to keep them away from the emerging shoots. Another difficulty in hosta care is slugs, which leave unsightly holes in the leaves. A light scattering of sand around your plants will help keep them away.
Hosta plants are a beautiful addition to any garden and fit well in a variety of spaces, ranging from a few inches to four feet across. Care of hostas is easy and now you’ve discovered the basics of how to grow hostas, you’ll find them a welcome addition to your yard.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Gunnera manicata is one of the most astounding plants you will ever see. The larger specimens of these ornamental giants can be quite expensive but don’t worry, collecting gunnera seeds and growing plants from them is easy. There are just a few crucial items to know about gunnera seed propagation to ensure success. Read this little article for some tips on how to propagate gunnera from seed and grow your own giant rhubarb.
Collecting Gunnera Seeds
There are over 50 species of gunnera, but the most impactful is the huge Gunnera manicata, which is native to the mountains of southeastern Brazil. This monster of a plant can have leaves of 11 by 6 feet on petioles that are 8 feet in length. It is the most common in cultivation and harvesting seeds from the plant is relatively simple but they need special treatment to ensure germination. Seed propagating gunnera plants requires exacting temperatures and careful handling of the seed.
Gunnera plants produce large brownish panicles filled with tiny red-brown flowers. Pollinated flowers become small red berry-like fruits. Once ripe, these fruits are filled with numerous fine black seeds. These seeds are sensitive to handling and the oils on your skin can affect germination. When harvesting seed, wear gloves to prevent contamination. Seed propagating gunnera plants is not the only method of reproduction. Another common and quick method is by dividing the root ball and planting the resulting individual babies. Growing gunnera seeds is a much slower process but you can get many more starts and have the fun of watching these monstrous plants grow from pups to huge garden specimens.
How to Propagate Gunnera from Seed
Once the panicles produce fruit, wait until they are ripe and bursting before harvesting them. Open fruits over a container to collect the tiny seeds. Use them immediately for best results or refrigerate them for a short period. Always use gloves when handling seed. Sow in a flat filled with good moistened compost mixed with vermiculite or perlite. Seeds should be lightly strewn at about one inch apart. These seeds need light for germination so you can simply lightly tamp them into soil or gently cover with a fine layer of sand. Cover the tray with plastic or glass and place where temperatures are 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20-25 C.). Best gunnera seed propagation is achieved in warmer temperatures. Bottom heat will speed germination. Remove the plastic or glass once every day to allow air into the area and mist to keep moist.
Follow-up Care When Growing Gunnera Seeds
Germination is generally quite quick, within 15 days, but may take up to 60 days. Thin is necessary and grow the seedlings on in their flat until two pairs of true leaves appear. Then transplant to 2-inch pots filled with good compost. Keep them moistened and provide ventilation in a warm area of the home, garden or greenhouse. Lighting should be bright but not scorching. It is important to not let the seedlings dry out. Give seedlings a liquid diluted fertilizer once per month during the growing season. Do not transplant outdoors until young plants are a year old. Protect plants in the garden from freezing. In a few years you, will have your own giant gunnera plants, a sight which will amaze and awe your friends and family.
Collecting Gunnera Seeds
There are over 50 species of gunnera, but the most impactful is the huge Gunnera manicata, which is native to the mountains of southeastern Brazil. This monster of a plant can have leaves of 11 by 6 feet on petioles that are 8 feet in length. It is the most common in cultivation and harvesting seeds from the plant is relatively simple but they need special treatment to ensure germination. Seed propagating gunnera plants requires exacting temperatures and careful handling of the seed.
Gunnera plants produce large brownish panicles filled with tiny red-brown flowers. Pollinated flowers become small red berry-like fruits. Once ripe, these fruits are filled with numerous fine black seeds. These seeds are sensitive to handling and the oils on your skin can affect germination. When harvesting seed, wear gloves to prevent contamination. Seed propagating gunnera plants is not the only method of reproduction. Another common and quick method is by dividing the root ball and planting the resulting individual babies. Growing gunnera seeds is a much slower process but you can get many more starts and have the fun of watching these monstrous plants grow from pups to huge garden specimens.
How to Propagate Gunnera from Seed
Once the panicles produce fruit, wait until they are ripe and bursting before harvesting them. Open fruits over a container to collect the tiny seeds. Use them immediately for best results or refrigerate them for a short period. Always use gloves when handling seed. Sow in a flat filled with good moistened compost mixed with vermiculite or perlite. Seeds should be lightly strewn at about one inch apart. These seeds need light for germination so you can simply lightly tamp them into soil or gently cover with a fine layer of sand. Cover the tray with plastic or glass and place where temperatures are 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20-25 C.). Best gunnera seed propagation is achieved in warmer temperatures. Bottom heat will speed germination. Remove the plastic or glass once every day to allow air into the area and mist to keep moist.
Follow-up Care When Growing Gunnera Seeds
Germination is generally quite quick, within 15 days, but may take up to 60 days. Thin is necessary and grow the seedlings on in their flat until two pairs of true leaves appear. Then transplant to 2-inch pots filled with good compost. Keep them moistened and provide ventilation in a warm area of the home, garden or greenhouse. Lighting should be bright but not scorching. It is important to not let the seedlings dry out. Give seedlings a liquid diluted fertilizer once per month during the growing season. Do not transplant outdoors until young plants are a year old. Protect plants in the garden from freezing. In a few years you, will have your own giant gunnera plants, a sight which will amaze and awe your friends and family.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Ornamental grasses are unique in the landscape for their versatility, ease of care and hypnotic movement. Fountain grasses are one of the more appealing of the group, with elegant plumed inflorescences and arching foliage. These splendid plants are low maintenance, which adds to their appeal. Fountain grass feeding is a rare chore because ornamental grasses like these thrive in low fertility areas. However, let the appearance of the plant be your cue and fertilize only when color and leaf health are indicative of nutritional scarcity.
Fountain Grass Feeding
Most ornamental grasses do not need to be fertilized. Container plants need occasional feeding because they are in a closed environment, but in-ground plants usually do better without extra nitrogen, which can make leaves floppy and cause excess growth and limp plants. If you feel you need to fertilize your plants, you need to learn how to fertilize ornamental fountain grass and, more importantly, what to feed ornamental grasses.
Ornamental fountain grass can thrive for years in poor soil without any feeding. These grasses are different from turf grass, which has heavy nutrient and water needs. Fountain grass is a tough, hardy plant that can grow too much foliage at the expense of the lovely plumes if fed too much. Excess food can also cause an unstable plant with limp blades. In the first year, fountain grass can benefit from some organic fertilizer applied at planting time. Alternatively, the best fertilizer for fountain grass is a time release fertilizer that will last through summer and help the plant build a vigorous root system and initial form.
How to Fertilize Ornamental Fountain Grass
If you feel you must fertilize your grass, choose the best fertilizer for fountain grass. Organic fertilizers are gentle and easy for plant roots to uptake, as well as healthy for the entire garden. When choosing what to feed ornamental grasses, try organic soil amendments such as compost, leaf mold, mushroom manure and other easily broken down organic substances. You may also choose to use a basic 10-10-10 balanced food. Just be sure the first number isn’t higher than 10, as that would add excess nitrogen and weaken the stems and blades of the grass. Once you choose the type of fertilizer you are going to use, you need to know how much to apply. The optimum time for fertilizing fountain grass is in early spring before new growth has begun.
Amounts to Use When Fertilizing Fountain Grass
A balanced fertilizer should be applied at a rate of ½ pound per 1,000 square feet. This is a very small amount, just enough to boost root health and flowering, but not enough to affect the foliage. Organic materials can be added as top dressing around the root zone. They will gradually compost in and feed the roots. Time release fertilizers should be applied half strength from the manufacturer’s recommendation. This will still be plenty of extra nutrients for your grass.
After any application of fertilizer, always water the plant and root area thoroughly. It is not necessary to fertilize the plant every year. Once every 2 or 3 years is sufficient for these low feeders. Container plants can be fertilized once annually in spring but carefully leach soil after application. If you are in doubt about how much and how to fertilize your plant, simply leave it alone. Fountain grasses are resilient, hardy specimens who will actually thrive without extra nutrients.
Fountain Grass Feeding
Most ornamental grasses do not need to be fertilized. Container plants need occasional feeding because they are in a closed environment, but in-ground plants usually do better without extra nitrogen, which can make leaves floppy and cause excess growth and limp plants. If you feel you need to fertilize your plants, you need to learn how to fertilize ornamental fountain grass and, more importantly, what to feed ornamental grasses.
Ornamental fountain grass can thrive for years in poor soil without any feeding. These grasses are different from turf grass, which has heavy nutrient and water needs. Fountain grass is a tough, hardy plant that can grow too much foliage at the expense of the lovely plumes if fed too much. Excess food can also cause an unstable plant with limp blades. In the first year, fountain grass can benefit from some organic fertilizer applied at planting time. Alternatively, the best fertilizer for fountain grass is a time release fertilizer that will last through summer and help the plant build a vigorous root system and initial form.
How to Fertilize Ornamental Fountain Grass
If you feel you must fertilize your grass, choose the best fertilizer for fountain grass. Organic fertilizers are gentle and easy for plant roots to uptake, as well as healthy for the entire garden. When choosing what to feed ornamental grasses, try organic soil amendments such as compost, leaf mold, mushroom manure and other easily broken down organic substances. You may also choose to use a basic 10-10-10 balanced food. Just be sure the first number isn’t higher than 10, as that would add excess nitrogen and weaken the stems and blades of the grass. Once you choose the type of fertilizer you are going to use, you need to know how much to apply. The optimum time for fertilizing fountain grass is in early spring before new growth has begun.
Amounts to Use When Fertilizing Fountain Grass
A balanced fertilizer should be applied at a rate of ½ pound per 1,000 square feet. This is a very small amount, just enough to boost root health and flowering, but not enough to affect the foliage. Organic materials can be added as top dressing around the root zone. They will gradually compost in and feed the roots. Time release fertilizers should be applied half strength from the manufacturer’s recommendation. This will still be plenty of extra nutrients for your grass.
After any application of fertilizer, always water the plant and root area thoroughly. It is not necessary to fertilize the plant every year. Once every 2 or 3 years is sufficient for these low feeders. Container plants can be fertilized once annually in spring but carefully leach soil after application. If you are in doubt about how much and how to fertilize your plant, simply leave it alone. Fountain grasses are resilient, hardy specimens who will actually thrive without extra nutrients.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Ornamental grasses provide amazing texture, motion and architecture to the landscape. Feather reed ornamental grasses are excellent vertical interest plants. What is feather reed grass? These elegant additions to the garden provide year around interest and are easy to care for. Most ornamental reed grass just needs maintenance a couple times per year. Try this perennial for maximum impact in the garden but minimum impact on your yard work chores.
What is Feather Reed Grass?
Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) is a clumping ornamental grass with numerous cultivars. It is a deciduous plant but is one of the first of the family to show foliage in early spring. Feather red plant may grow 3 to 5 feet tall and produces an inflorescence in June that starts green and slowly blushes to purple or pink. The flower head becomes grain-like seeds within a few days. These grain heads can persist well into the winter, but gradually they scatter off the stalk.
Growing Feather Reed Grass
Feather reed ornamental grasses are suited for USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 9. They are very adaptable to wet or dry areas with full to partial sun. This marvelous plant needs little special care and its site requirements are very versatile. Choose a location with rich moist soil for the best performance, but the plant can also take dry poor soils. Additionally, feather reed ornamental grasses can tolerate heavy clay soils. Divide the crowns in late winter to early spring. Growing feather reed grass from seed is not recommended. The seeds are generally sterile and will not germinate.
Feather Reed Grass Care
This plant has almost no pest or disease problems and feather reed grass care is easy and minimal. These grasses are so flexible about site and soil condition, with a resistance to pests and disease, that their requirements are limited and make them perfect for urban or container gardeners. Young plants will need to be watered until they are established but the mature grass can withstand long periods of drought. If soil is poor, fertilize in early spring with a balanced plant food. Feather reed ornamental grasses should be pruned back to allow new foliage to soar above the crown in spring. Divide mature plants after three years for better growth and to produce new plants.
When to Prune Feather Reed Grass
There is some discussion on the appropriate time to trim deciduous grasses. Some gardeners like to trim them in fall when the flower heads are failing and the general appearance is untidy. Others feel you should allow the old foliage and inflorescences to protect the crown from cold weather and trim away the debris in spring. Take the old foliage off in February to March if you decide to wait. There really is no correct way as long as you take the old foliage off before the new growth begins to sprout. Use a hedge trimmer or grass shears to cut the old spent blades and stems back to 3 to 5 inches from the ground. This practice will keep your ornamental grass looking its best and producing new flower stalks and foliage for the most attractive appearance.
What is Feather Reed Grass?
Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) is a clumping ornamental grass with numerous cultivars. It is a deciduous plant but is one of the first of the family to show foliage in early spring. Feather red plant may grow 3 to 5 feet tall and produces an inflorescence in June that starts green and slowly blushes to purple or pink. The flower head becomes grain-like seeds within a few days. These grain heads can persist well into the winter, but gradually they scatter off the stalk.
Growing Feather Reed Grass
Feather reed ornamental grasses are suited for USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 9. They are very adaptable to wet or dry areas with full to partial sun. This marvelous plant needs little special care and its site requirements are very versatile. Choose a location with rich moist soil for the best performance, but the plant can also take dry poor soils. Additionally, feather reed ornamental grasses can tolerate heavy clay soils. Divide the crowns in late winter to early spring. Growing feather reed grass from seed is not recommended. The seeds are generally sterile and will not germinate.
Feather Reed Grass Care
This plant has almost no pest or disease problems and feather reed grass care is easy and minimal. These grasses are so flexible about site and soil condition, with a resistance to pests and disease, that their requirements are limited and make them perfect for urban or container gardeners. Young plants will need to be watered until they are established but the mature grass can withstand long periods of drought. If soil is poor, fertilize in early spring with a balanced plant food. Feather reed ornamental grasses should be pruned back to allow new foliage to soar above the crown in spring. Divide mature plants after three years for better growth and to produce new plants.
When to Prune Feather Reed Grass
There is some discussion on the appropriate time to trim deciduous grasses. Some gardeners like to trim them in fall when the flower heads are failing and the general appearance is untidy. Others feel you should allow the old foliage and inflorescences to protect the crown from cold weather and trim away the debris in spring. Take the old foliage off in February to March if you decide to wait. There really is no correct way as long as you take the old foliage off before the new growth begins to sprout. Use a hedge trimmer or grass shears to cut the old spent blades and stems back to 3 to 5 inches from the ground. This practice will keep your ornamental grass looking its best and producing new flower stalks and foliage for the most attractive appearance.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Unless you take precautions beforehand, that first bout of cold weather or frost will quickly kill off your coleus plants. Therefore, winterizing coleus is important.
Wintering a Coleus Plant
Overwintering coleus plants is actually quite easy. They can be dug up and overwintered indoors, or you can take cuttings from your healthy plants to make additional stock for next season’s garden.
How to Keep Coleus Through Winter
Given adequate light, coleus overwinters easily indoors. Dig up healthy plants in the fall (usually August), just before cold weather hits. Make sure you get as much of the root system as possible. Pot your plants in suitable containers with well-draining soil and water them thoroughly. It may also help to trim back the top half of growth to reduce shock, though this is not required. Allow your plants to acclimate for about a week or so prior to moving them inside. Then place the newly potted plants in a sunny location, such as a south- or southeast-facing window, and water only as needed. If desired, you can include half-strength fertilizer once a month with your regular watering regimen. You may also want to keep new growth pinched to maintain a bushier appearance. In spring you can replant the coleus back in the garden.
How to Overwinter Coleus Cuttings
Alternatively, you can learn how to keep coleus through winter by taking cuttings. Simply root three- to four-inch cuttings in late August (or prior to cold weather) by potting them up and moving them indoors. Remove the bottom leaves of each cutting and insert the cut ends into damp potting soil, peat moss, or sand. If desired, you can dip the ends in rooting hormone but you don’t have to since coleus plants root readily. Keep them moist in bright, indirect light for about six weeks, at which time they should have enough root growth for transplanting to larger pots. Likewise, you can keep them in the same pots. Either way, move them to a brighter location, such as a sunny window.
Wintering a Coleus Plant
Overwintering coleus plants is actually quite easy. They can be dug up and overwintered indoors, or you can take cuttings from your healthy plants to make additional stock for next season’s garden.
How to Keep Coleus Through Winter
Given adequate light, coleus overwinters easily indoors. Dig up healthy plants in the fall (usually August), just before cold weather hits. Make sure you get as much of the root system as possible. Pot your plants in suitable containers with well-draining soil and water them thoroughly. It may also help to trim back the top half of growth to reduce shock, though this is not required. Allow your plants to acclimate for about a week or so prior to moving them inside. Then place the newly potted plants in a sunny location, such as a south- or southeast-facing window, and water only as needed. If desired, you can include half-strength fertilizer once a month with your regular watering regimen. You may also want to keep new growth pinched to maintain a bushier appearance. In spring you can replant the coleus back in the garden.
How to Overwinter Coleus Cuttings
Alternatively, you can learn how to keep coleus through winter by taking cuttings. Simply root three- to four-inch cuttings in late August (or prior to cold weather) by potting them up and moving them indoors. Remove the bottom leaves of each cutting and insert the cut ends into damp potting soil, peat moss, or sand. If desired, you can dip the ends in rooting hormone but you don’t have to since coleus plants root readily. Keep them moist in bright, indirect light for about six weeks, at which time they should have enough root growth for transplanting to larger pots. Likewise, you can keep them in the same pots. Either way, move them to a brighter location, such as a sunny window.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Well, if you’ve read many of my articles or books, then you know I am someone with a curious interest in unusual things – especially in the garden. That being said, when I came across Under the Sea coleus plants, I was quite taken aback. This was indeed something I wanted not only to grow but to share its unusual beauty with others.
Growing Coleus Under the Sea Plants
Coleus is just one of a number of plants in the garden I love to grow. Not only are they easy to care for, but they are simply breathtaking foliage plants with so many color variations and forms that you just can’t go wrong in whichever you choose. And then there’s the Under the Sea™ coleus plants. Under the Sea coleus plants (Solestomeon scutellarioides) hail from Canada, where they were bred by students at Saskatchewan University. So what sets this collection apart from all other coleus varieties? It’s the “wild shapes and colors” found in the various cultivars that make them so alluring. Well, that and the fact that they are not your typical shade lover as most coleus are – these can actually tolerate sun too!
Typically growing similar to other types of coleus, you can plant Under the Sea coleus seeds in containers and other areas of the garden, shade or sun. Keep the soil somewhat moist and ensure that it’s well draining. You can also pinch the tips to create a bushy look, though most of the Under the Sea types are more compact naturally anyway (topping out at around 15 to 18 inches high and a foot or so wide), so this may not even be an issue.
Under the Sea Coleus Collection
Here are some of the most popular plants in this series (I am sure there are lots more):
Lime Shrimp – this one is noted for its deeply lobed lime-green leaves, which are also edged in dark purple. Gold Anemone – the leaves of this one have numerous golden to chartreuse leaflets with streaks of yellow to gold and brown edges. Bone Fish – slightly narrower than others in the series, its pink to light red leaflets are long and slender with finely-cut lobes edged in bright gold to pale green. Hermit Crab – this type is edged in lime green and its leaves are bright pink, and shaped like a crustacean or possible crab.
Langostino – this is considered the largest in the collection with orange-red leaves and secondary leaflets which are edged in bright gold. Red Coral – probably the smallest, or most compact, of the series, this plant has red leaves that are edged in green and black. Molten Coral – another compact variety, this one has foliage of reddish-orange with bright green tips. Sea Scallop – this type has attractive chartreuse leaves that are more rounded in nature with purple edging and overtones. So if you’re anything like me with a love for all things outside the norm, consider growing one (if not all) of the coleus Under the Sea plants in your garden. They are readily available through many nurseries, garden centers or mail-order seed suppliers.
Growing Coleus Under the Sea Plants
Coleus is just one of a number of plants in the garden I love to grow. Not only are they easy to care for, but they are simply breathtaking foliage plants with so many color variations and forms that you just can’t go wrong in whichever you choose. And then there’s the Under the Sea™ coleus plants. Under the Sea coleus plants (Solestomeon scutellarioides) hail from Canada, where they were bred by students at Saskatchewan University. So what sets this collection apart from all other coleus varieties? It’s the “wild shapes and colors” found in the various cultivars that make them so alluring. Well, that and the fact that they are not your typical shade lover as most coleus are – these can actually tolerate sun too!
Typically growing similar to other types of coleus, you can plant Under the Sea coleus seeds in containers and other areas of the garden, shade or sun. Keep the soil somewhat moist and ensure that it’s well draining. You can also pinch the tips to create a bushy look, though most of the Under the Sea types are more compact naturally anyway (topping out at around 15 to 18 inches high and a foot or so wide), so this may not even be an issue.
Under the Sea Coleus Collection
Here are some of the most popular plants in this series (I am sure there are lots more):
Lime Shrimp – this one is noted for its deeply lobed lime-green leaves, which are also edged in dark purple. Gold Anemone – the leaves of this one have numerous golden to chartreuse leaflets with streaks of yellow to gold and brown edges. Bone Fish – slightly narrower than others in the series, its pink to light red leaflets are long and slender with finely-cut lobes edged in bright gold to pale green. Hermit Crab – this type is edged in lime green and its leaves are bright pink, and shaped like a crustacean or possible crab.
Langostino – this is considered the largest in the collection with orange-red leaves and secondary leaflets which are edged in bright gold. Red Coral – probably the smallest, or most compact, of the series, this plant has red leaves that are edged in green and black. Molten Coral – another compact variety, this one has foliage of reddish-orange with bright green tips. Sea Scallop – this type has attractive chartreuse leaves that are more rounded in nature with purple edging and overtones. So if you’re anything like me with a love for all things outside the norm, consider growing one (if not all) of the coleus Under the Sea plants in your garden. They are readily available through many nurseries, garden centers or mail-order seed suppliers.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
There are few more colorful and diverse plants than coleus. Coleus plants do not withstand freezing temperatures but cool, shorter days do spur an interesting development in these foliage plants. Do coleus plants have flowers? Coleus plant flowering begins as a signal that winter is coming and the plant should produce seed to continue its genetic dynasty. Flowering often leads to a rangy plant, however, so it is best to learn what to do with coleus blooms if you want to keep a compact, thickly leafed plant.
Do Coleus Plants Have Flowers?
Many gardeners are charmed by the spikes of tiny blue or white flowers produced on coleus at the end of the season. These little blooms make a charming cut flower or may be left to enhance the beauty of the plant. Once a coleus has flower spikes, though, it may become leggy and develop a less attractive form. You can stop this in its tracks with a little word of advice or enjoy the new display made by the energetic blooms – whatever you prefer.
Coleus are often thought of as shady foliage specimens that brighten up the dark corners of the garden. While this is somewhat true, the plants can also grow in full sun with some protection from noontime searing rays. The age of the plant and stress can contribute to the formation of blooms on your coleus.
Stress can come in the form of excess heat, dry conditions and late season cold nights. The plant knows it will die if continued exposure to unfavorable conditions continues, so it blooms to produce seed. Coleus plant flowering signals the end of the plant’s life cycle, and plants usually die soon after they are allowed to produce blooms. Flowers are attractive to bees and butterflies and occasionally hummingbirds and add a significant color punch to the plant in hues of blue, white or lavender. You can just leave them on and enjoy the plant as an annual or take steps to encourage thicker growth and continued life in a greenhouse or cold frame.
What to Do With Coleus Blooms
What you do with the flower spikes is up to you. Leaving the flowers tends to cause less foliar development and leggier stems, probably because the plant is directing its energy to flower formation. You can pinch off the spikes just as they are forming and redirect that energy back into leaf formation while helping create a more compact, thick form. Trim the stem back to the first growth node before the spike forms. Use scissors, pruners or just pinch off the growth on slender stems. Over time, new leaves will sprout from the cut area and fill in the space left by the spike. Alternately, you can let the blooms grow and produce seeds. If a coleus plant has flower spikes, simply wait until the petals fall off and a small fruit is formed. Seeds are tiny and will show themselves when the capsule or fruit splits. Save these in a plastic bag until you are ready to plant them. Coleus plants are easy to start from seed, either indoors or outside when temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.).
Sowing Coleus Seeds
Coleus may be started with cuttings or seeds. If you saved your seeds, you can plant them at any time if growing them indoors. If you intend to use them outside, wait until soil temperatures have warmed up and all danger of frost has passed, or sow them indoors in flats 10 weeks before the date of your last frost. Sow the seed into moistened sterile medium in flats. Cover the tiny seeds with a fine sifting of the medium. Cover the tray with a plastic lid and keep moist in a warm location until sprouting occurs.
Thin the seedlings and transplant them to larger pots when they have two sets of true leaves. Grow them on in containers indoors until outdoor temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.) and then gradually harden them off before transplanting them to containers or prepared garden beds. In this way, the flower spikes can adorn the plants for added appeal and provide a new generation of the plants for years to come.
Do Coleus Plants Have Flowers?
Many gardeners are charmed by the spikes of tiny blue or white flowers produced on coleus at the end of the season. These little blooms make a charming cut flower or may be left to enhance the beauty of the plant. Once a coleus has flower spikes, though, it may become leggy and develop a less attractive form. You can stop this in its tracks with a little word of advice or enjoy the new display made by the energetic blooms – whatever you prefer.
Coleus are often thought of as shady foliage specimens that brighten up the dark corners of the garden. While this is somewhat true, the plants can also grow in full sun with some protection from noontime searing rays. The age of the plant and stress can contribute to the formation of blooms on your coleus.
Stress can come in the form of excess heat, dry conditions and late season cold nights. The plant knows it will die if continued exposure to unfavorable conditions continues, so it blooms to produce seed. Coleus plant flowering signals the end of the plant’s life cycle, and plants usually die soon after they are allowed to produce blooms. Flowers are attractive to bees and butterflies and occasionally hummingbirds and add a significant color punch to the plant in hues of blue, white or lavender. You can just leave them on and enjoy the plant as an annual or take steps to encourage thicker growth and continued life in a greenhouse or cold frame.
What to Do With Coleus Blooms
What you do with the flower spikes is up to you. Leaving the flowers tends to cause less foliar development and leggier stems, probably because the plant is directing its energy to flower formation. You can pinch off the spikes just as they are forming and redirect that energy back into leaf formation while helping create a more compact, thick form. Trim the stem back to the first growth node before the spike forms. Use scissors, pruners or just pinch off the growth on slender stems. Over time, new leaves will sprout from the cut area and fill in the space left by the spike. Alternately, you can let the blooms grow and produce seeds. If a coleus plant has flower spikes, simply wait until the petals fall off and a small fruit is formed. Seeds are tiny and will show themselves when the capsule or fruit splits. Save these in a plastic bag until you are ready to plant them. Coleus plants are easy to start from seed, either indoors or outside when temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.).
Sowing Coleus Seeds
Coleus may be started with cuttings or seeds. If you saved your seeds, you can plant them at any time if growing them indoors. If you intend to use them outside, wait until soil temperatures have warmed up and all danger of frost has passed, or sow them indoors in flats 10 weeks before the date of your last frost. Sow the seed into moistened sterile medium in flats. Cover the tiny seeds with a fine sifting of the medium. Cover the tray with a plastic lid and keep moist in a warm location until sprouting occurs.
Thin the seedlings and transplant them to larger pots when they have two sets of true leaves. Grow them on in containers indoors until outdoor temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.) and then gradually harden them off before transplanting them to containers or prepared garden beds. In this way, the flower spikes can adorn the plants for added appeal and provide a new generation of the plants for years to come.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Can I grow coleus indoors? Sure, why not? Although coleus is typically grown outdoors as an annual, its vibrant leaves provide many months of enjoyment indoors if growing conditions are just right. In fact, coleus plants respond well to potted environments. Read on to learn more about growing coleus as an indoor plant.
How to Grow a Coleus Houseplant
Growing coleus plants indoors isn’t at all difficult but does require a few basic needs when it comes to light and temperature.
Coleus likes bright light, but be careful of intense sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant gets bright morning sunlight but indirect light during the afternoon. You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.
Coleus as an indoor plant performs best in temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16-24 C). Winter temperatures should be cooler, but don’t expose the plant to temperatures below 50 F. (10 C). If you enjoy growing coleus plants indoors, you can always start new plants with 2-inch cuttings taken from a healthy, mature plant. Plant cuttings in moist potting soil, then keep them moist and warm until the new plants are established. At this point, resume normal care.
Indoor Coleus Care
Once you begin growing coleus as an indoor plant, its continued care is important in keeping the plant healthy. Here are some tips to help with that: Water regularly to keep the soil slightly moist – never bone dry and never soggy. Feed the plant once every week or two during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Place the pot on a tray with a layer of wet pebbles if the air in your home is dry. (Never let the bottom of the pot stand directly in water.) Pinch the tips of the plant frequently to keep it bushy. Feel free to remove up to one-third of growth if the plant becomes long and leggy.
Remove blooms as soon as they appear, as they draw energy from the colorful foliage. If you allow blooming to continue, the plant will go to seed and die. If the plant gets too scraggly, it may be time to start fresh with a new plant.
How to Grow a Coleus Houseplant
Growing coleus plants indoors isn’t at all difficult but does require a few basic needs when it comes to light and temperature.
Coleus likes bright light, but be careful of intense sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant gets bright morning sunlight but indirect light during the afternoon. You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.
Coleus as an indoor plant performs best in temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16-24 C). Winter temperatures should be cooler, but don’t expose the plant to temperatures below 50 F. (10 C). If you enjoy growing coleus plants indoors, you can always start new plants with 2-inch cuttings taken from a healthy, mature plant. Plant cuttings in moist potting soil, then keep them moist and warm until the new plants are established. At this point, resume normal care.
Indoor Coleus Care
Once you begin growing coleus as an indoor plant, its continued care is important in keeping the plant healthy. Here are some tips to help with that: Water regularly to keep the soil slightly moist – never bone dry and never soggy. Feed the plant once every week or two during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Place the pot on a tray with a layer of wet pebbles if the air in your home is dry. (Never let the bottom of the pot stand directly in water.) Pinch the tips of the plant frequently to keep it bushy. Feel free to remove up to one-third of growth if the plant becomes long and leggy.
Remove blooms as soon as they appear, as they draw energy from the colorful foliage. If you allow blooming to continue, the plant will go to seed and die. If the plant gets too scraggly, it may be time to start fresh with a new plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Perhaps you know them as painted nettle or poor man’s croton, depending on where you’re located, but for many of us we simply know them as coleus plants (Coleus blumei). I, for one, love them, as do many others. They have some of the most stunningly colored foliage—in combinations of green, yellow, pink, red, maroon, etc. Coleus also have a wide variety of leaf sizes and overall shapes. This means that no matter what area you are looking to put coleus, you can find one that will be perfect. These plants are great for adding color in the garden (or home), especially in those dark, drab-looking corners.
Growing Coleus Plants
Coleus is probably one of the easiest plants to grow and propagate. In fact, the plants root so easily that you can even start cuttings in a glass of water. They can also be propagated by seed indoors about 8-10 weeks prior to your last expected spring frost.
Coleus can be added to beds and borders for interest or grown in containers. They need fertile, well-draining soil and usually perform best in areas with partial shade, though many varieties can also tolerate sun. When growing coleus, keep in mind that these beauties can grow rapidly. Plant coleus close together as bedding plants or tuck them into baskets and containers for a fast growing and spectacular addition.
Care for Coleus Plant
Caring for coleus is just as easy. They need to be kept moist, especially newly planted coleus. Container plants also require more frequent watering than those grown in the garden. Although it’s not required, the plants can be given a boost of half-strength liquid fertilizer during their active growth in spring and summer. Their spiked flowers usually appear in summer; however, these can be removed if desired. You can also pinch the shoots of young coleus plants to produce bushier growth.
Another factor in coleus care is overwintering, as these plants, which are considered tender annuals, are highly susceptible to cold temperatures. Therefore, they must either be dug up, potted, and brought indoors for overwintering or grown through cuttings to establish additional plants.
Growing Coleus Plants
Coleus is probably one of the easiest plants to grow and propagate. In fact, the plants root so easily that you can even start cuttings in a glass of water. They can also be propagated by seed indoors about 8-10 weeks prior to your last expected spring frost.
Coleus can be added to beds and borders for interest or grown in containers. They need fertile, well-draining soil and usually perform best in areas with partial shade, though many varieties can also tolerate sun. When growing coleus, keep in mind that these beauties can grow rapidly. Plant coleus close together as bedding plants or tuck them into baskets and containers for a fast growing and spectacular addition.
Care for Coleus Plant
Caring for coleus is just as easy. They need to be kept moist, especially newly planted coleus. Container plants also require more frequent watering than those grown in the garden. Although it’s not required, the plants can be given a boost of half-strength liquid fertilizer during their active growth in spring and summer. Their spiked flowers usually appear in summer; however, these can be removed if desired. You can also pinch the shoots of young coleus plants to produce bushier growth.
Another factor in coleus care is overwintering, as these plants, which are considered tender annuals, are highly susceptible to cold temperatures. Therefore, they must either be dug up, potted, and brought indoors for overwintering or grown through cuttings to establish additional plants.
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