文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Castor bean plants, which are not beans at all, are commonly grown in the garden for their striking foliage as well as shade cover. Castor bean plants are stunning with their mammoth star-shaped leaves that can reach 3 feet in length. Learn more about this interesting plant as well as castor bean plantation.
Castor Bean Information
Castor bean plants (Ricinus ommunis) are native to the Ethiopian region of Africa but have been naturalized in warm climates all over the world. Commonly found in the wild along stream banks, riverbeds on low lying areas, this aggressive vine is the source of one of nature’s best natural oils, castor oil.
As far back as 4,000 B.C., castor beans have been found in ancient Egyptian tombs. The valuable oil from this tropical beauty was used thousands of years ago to light lamp wicks. Castor bean plantation businesses still exist today, though mainly in tropical regions. Many varieties of ornamental castor beans are available and make a bold statement in any garden. In tropical regions, it grows as an evergreen shrub or tree that can reach 40 feet in height. In warm areas, this striking plant is grown as an annual. This plant can grow from seedling to a 10-foot tall plant by the end of the summer but will die back with the first frost. In USDA planting zone 9 and above, castor bean plants grow as perennials that look like small trees.
Planting Instructions for Castor Beans
Growing castor beans is extremely easy. Castor bean seeds start readily indoors and will grow very rapidly. Castor plants like full sun and humid conditions. Provide loamy, moist, but not soaking wet, soil for best results. Soak seeds overnight to aid with germination. In warmer areas, or once the soil can be worked and the threat of frost has passed, castor bean seeds can be sown directly into the garden. Due to its large size, allow enough room for this fast-growing plant to expand.
Are Castor Beans Poisonous?
The toxicity of this plant is another important aspect of castor bean information. The use of castor bean plants in cultivation is discouraged because the seeds are extremely poisonous. The alluring seeds are tempting to young children. Therefore, growing castor beans in the home landscape is not a good idea if you have children or pets. It should be noted, however, that the toxins do not pass into the oil.
Castor Bean Information
Castor bean plants (Ricinus ommunis) are native to the Ethiopian region of Africa but have been naturalized in warm climates all over the world. Commonly found in the wild along stream banks, riverbeds on low lying areas, this aggressive vine is the source of one of nature’s best natural oils, castor oil.
As far back as 4,000 B.C., castor beans have been found in ancient Egyptian tombs. The valuable oil from this tropical beauty was used thousands of years ago to light lamp wicks. Castor bean plantation businesses still exist today, though mainly in tropical regions. Many varieties of ornamental castor beans are available and make a bold statement in any garden. In tropical regions, it grows as an evergreen shrub or tree that can reach 40 feet in height. In warm areas, this striking plant is grown as an annual. This plant can grow from seedling to a 10-foot tall plant by the end of the summer but will die back with the first frost. In USDA planting zone 9 and above, castor bean plants grow as perennials that look like small trees.
Planting Instructions for Castor Beans
Growing castor beans is extremely easy. Castor bean seeds start readily indoors and will grow very rapidly. Castor plants like full sun and humid conditions. Provide loamy, moist, but not soaking wet, soil for best results. Soak seeds overnight to aid with germination. In warmer areas, or once the soil can be worked and the threat of frost has passed, castor bean seeds can be sown directly into the garden. Due to its large size, allow enough room for this fast-growing plant to expand.
Are Castor Beans Poisonous?
The toxicity of this plant is another important aspect of castor bean information. The use of castor bean plants in cultivation is discouraged because the seeds are extremely poisonous. The alluring seeds are tempting to young children. Therefore, growing castor beans in the home landscape is not a good idea if you have children or pets. It should be noted, however, that the toxins do not pass into the oil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
If you have been on a nature hike in Eastern North America, you have likely come across bladder fern plants. The bulblet bladder fern is a native plant found in shaded cliffs and dry, rocky slopes. Growing bladder ferns in the landscape lends an air of the wild to a naturalized garden. Plus, these little ferns are easy to care for and grow in full to partial shade areas of the garden that are often difficult to populate with many choice plants.
Bladder Fern Information
Bulblet bladder fern (Cystopteris bulbifera) is named for the tiny green bladder-like structures on the underside of some leaves. These are potential reproductive structures that eventually fall off and produce new ferns. The fern is a rock-loving species found in limestone or sandstone formations. As part of the home garden, they add lacy-leaved elegance and low maintenance greenery to the shadier spots in the landscape.
Bladder fern plants reproduce semi-vegetatively but also develop spores which fuel the development of the bulblets. These are found on the underside of leaves on the stem which divide the leaflets, or pinnae. Bulblets are bright green, semi-glossy and start out as tiny balls, developing into kidney shaped pre-leaves. When mature, these bulblets fall off the parent plant and can become new ferns in the correct conditions. Dividing the spreading rootstock is another way of growing bladder ferns. To add to bladder fern information, a single adult frond can produce more than 50 bulblets, indicating the ease of spread of this little plant. As a result, bladder ferns make excellent ground cover over time, increasing their numbers in just a few seasons exponentially.
Conditions for Growing Bladder Ferns
Bladder ferns prefer moist soil in dappled areas. The plants are often found in tree lined outcrops and cliff sides. The leaves are deciduous and spread by prolific rhizomes. They can thrive in sandy, clay or loam soil but requires good drainage. The ferns are also adaptable to any pH soil. Healthy plants need a thin layer of organic material, which in nature casually filters into the crevasses the plant prefers to grow into and slowly breaks down to release nutrients. In the home landscape, a little bit of well-rotted compost added to the planting hole will increase plant health. Always plant ferns at the depth in which they were installed in their nursery container. A note about acquisition of the plants: Do not harvest these or any other plant from the wild, as such activities can disrupt the careful balance of nature and potentially harm existing populations. Be sure to obtain plants from a reputable nursery that specializes in them.
Bladder Fern Care
Bladder fern is a low maintenance plant if situated in conditions it prefers. Low to medium light conditions favor the plant. In fall, when cold temperatures arrive, the leaves will begin to die back. Leave the dead foliage on the plant, if possible, over winter to form a type of protective canopy over the core. In late winter to early spring, cut off the dead leaves to make way for new leaflets. There is no need to fertilize this fern but, in fall, spread compost around the base of the plant to gradually break down and feed the roots. Bladder fern care is minimal and the plant is fast growing, spreading quickly. In the garden, the plant will make a lush green ground cover from spring to fall.
Bladder Fern Information
Bulblet bladder fern (Cystopteris bulbifera) is named for the tiny green bladder-like structures on the underside of some leaves. These are potential reproductive structures that eventually fall off and produce new ferns. The fern is a rock-loving species found in limestone or sandstone formations. As part of the home garden, they add lacy-leaved elegance and low maintenance greenery to the shadier spots in the landscape.
Bladder fern plants reproduce semi-vegetatively but also develop spores which fuel the development of the bulblets. These are found on the underside of leaves on the stem which divide the leaflets, or pinnae. Bulblets are bright green, semi-glossy and start out as tiny balls, developing into kidney shaped pre-leaves. When mature, these bulblets fall off the parent plant and can become new ferns in the correct conditions. Dividing the spreading rootstock is another way of growing bladder ferns. To add to bladder fern information, a single adult frond can produce more than 50 bulblets, indicating the ease of spread of this little plant. As a result, bladder ferns make excellent ground cover over time, increasing their numbers in just a few seasons exponentially.
Conditions for Growing Bladder Ferns
Bladder ferns prefer moist soil in dappled areas. The plants are often found in tree lined outcrops and cliff sides. The leaves are deciduous and spread by prolific rhizomes. They can thrive in sandy, clay or loam soil but requires good drainage. The ferns are also adaptable to any pH soil. Healthy plants need a thin layer of organic material, which in nature casually filters into the crevasses the plant prefers to grow into and slowly breaks down to release nutrients. In the home landscape, a little bit of well-rotted compost added to the planting hole will increase plant health. Always plant ferns at the depth in which they were installed in their nursery container. A note about acquisition of the plants: Do not harvest these or any other plant from the wild, as such activities can disrupt the careful balance of nature and potentially harm existing populations. Be sure to obtain plants from a reputable nursery that specializes in them.
Bladder Fern Care
Bladder fern is a low maintenance plant if situated in conditions it prefers. Low to medium light conditions favor the plant. In fall, when cold temperatures arrive, the leaves will begin to die back. Leave the dead foliage on the plant, if possible, over winter to form a type of protective canopy over the core. In late winter to early spring, cut off the dead leaves to make way for new leaflets. There is no need to fertilize this fern but, in fall, spread compost around the base of the plant to gradually break down and feed the roots. Bladder fern care is minimal and the plant is fast growing, spreading quickly. In the garden, the plant will make a lush green ground cover from spring to fall.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
A homeowner who has had bamboo thrust upon them by a careless neighbor or a previous homeowner knows that trying to get rid of bamboo can be a nightmare. Eliminating bamboo plants is one of the toughest things you can do in the garden, but it can be done. With diligence and perseverance, you can control bamboo spread and even kill bamboo plants that have invaded unwanted places. Keep reading to learn more about how to eliminate bamboo plants in your garden.
How to Get Rid of Bamboo
Eliminating bamboo plants starts with a shovel. The creeping rhizomes and roots of bamboo are virtually immune to the herbicides people normally use on unwanted plants. In order to start to get rid of bamboo, you must physically dig up the offending clump.
Make sure you remove as much of the roots as possible.
After this, you are NOT done in your efforts to control bamboo spread. This is just the beginning. Even if you think you remove all of the bamboo roots and rhizomes, it will return. From here you have two options in how to eliminate bamboo. You can either diligently kill bamboo plants as the plants reemerge or you can get rid of the bamboo by mowing it down frequently. If you opt to get rid of bamboo with chemical controls, as soon as you see new bamboo shoots emerge, spray them with the strongest herbicide you can buy. Eliminating bamboo plants with this method requires that you be very diligent. If you allow a bamboo shoot to grow for too long without treating it, you will have to start over in your control bamboo spread. If you would like an organic method of eliminating bamboo plants and shoots as they emerge, you can also use boiling water on the shoots. As with the chemical method, you must treat any bamboo shoots as soon as they appear. If you decide to get rid of bamboo with the mowing method, mow over the area where the bamboo was as frequently as you do your lawn. Use the lowest deck setting on your mower. Regardless of the method you use to kill bamboo plants, expect that it will take you two to three years of treating the infested area before you will completely control bamboo spread.
How to Control Bamboo Spread from Neighboring Properties
If you find your efforts to kill bamboo plants thwarted by spread from a neighbor, you will need to build a barrier to keep the bamboo from spreading to your yard. The barrier can be made of concrete or metal. Wood can also be used, but be aware that it will eventually decompose and the bamboo will push through again. The barrier will need to go down 2 feet deep and should come up at least 6 inches. Inspect the barrier every few months to make sure that no bamboo has crept over the barrier.
How to Get Rid of Bamboo
Eliminating bamboo plants starts with a shovel. The creeping rhizomes and roots of bamboo are virtually immune to the herbicides people normally use on unwanted plants. In order to start to get rid of bamboo, you must physically dig up the offending clump.
Make sure you remove as much of the roots as possible.
After this, you are NOT done in your efforts to control bamboo spread. This is just the beginning. Even if you think you remove all of the bamboo roots and rhizomes, it will return. From here you have two options in how to eliminate bamboo. You can either diligently kill bamboo plants as the plants reemerge or you can get rid of the bamboo by mowing it down frequently. If you opt to get rid of bamboo with chemical controls, as soon as you see new bamboo shoots emerge, spray them with the strongest herbicide you can buy. Eliminating bamboo plants with this method requires that you be very diligent. If you allow a bamboo shoot to grow for too long without treating it, you will have to start over in your control bamboo spread. If you would like an organic method of eliminating bamboo plants and shoots as they emerge, you can also use boiling water on the shoots. As with the chemical method, you must treat any bamboo shoots as soon as they appear. If you decide to get rid of bamboo with the mowing method, mow over the area where the bamboo was as frequently as you do your lawn. Use the lowest deck setting on your mower. Regardless of the method you use to kill bamboo plants, expect that it will take you two to three years of treating the infested area before you will completely control bamboo spread.
How to Control Bamboo Spread from Neighboring Properties
If you find your efforts to kill bamboo plants thwarted by spread from a neighbor, you will need to build a barrier to keep the bamboo from spreading to your yard. The barrier can be made of concrete or metal. Wood can also be used, but be aware that it will eventually decompose and the bamboo will push through again. The barrier will need to go down 2 feet deep and should come up at least 6 inches. Inspect the barrier every few months to make sure that no bamboo has crept over the barrier.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Did you know that most bamboo plants only flower once every 50 years? You probably don’t have the time to wait around for your bamboo to produce seeds, so you’re going to have to divide your existing clumps and transplant them when you want to propagate your plants. Bamboo will grow and spread quickly, but there is no real way to direct it into far corners of the garden. Take a portion of an established clump, however, and you can create a new stand of bamboo in one season. Let’s learn more about transplanting bamboo.
When to Relocate Bamboos
Bamboo plants can be a bit finicky when it comes to transplanting, yet if you treat them right, they’ll spread all over the new area in very little time. Never transplant your bamboo when new shoots are forming; early in the spring or late in the fall are the best times. The roots are very sensitive to lack of moisture and to sunlight, so choose a cloudy, misty day for the absolute best results.
How to Transplant Bamboo
The roots of the bamboo plant are amazingly tough. You’ll need a sharp shovel or axe to cut the root bunches for bamboo plant moving. The easiest way is to use a chainsaw. Wear protective clothing and eye covering to prevent thrown rocks or splinters. Cut down through the earth about a foot away from the clump of stems. Make a complete circle through the dirt, slicing down about 12 inches. Slide a shovel underneath the clump and rock it up out of the ground. Plunge the root clump into a bucket of water immediately. Lean the stand of bamboo against a shed or fence, as this plant doesn’t do well if you lay it down on the ground. Have the moist hole already dug for the bamboo’s new home. Carry the bucket to the hole and transfer the clump of bamboo from the water to the soil. Cover the roots and water the plant very well. Cover the base of the plant with organic mulch such as dried leaves or grass clippings. Bamboo loves water, especially when it’s stressed, and mulch will shade the soil and help keep in as much moisture as possible. Set up some shade for the new bamboo plants by stretching cheesecloth or other light fabric over poles to create a sort of light tent. This will give the new bamboo clump some added protection while it establishes itself. Once you see fresh new shoots coming up, you can remove the shade fabric, but keep the soil moist throughout the year.
When to Relocate Bamboos
Bamboo plants can be a bit finicky when it comes to transplanting, yet if you treat them right, they’ll spread all over the new area in very little time. Never transplant your bamboo when new shoots are forming; early in the spring or late in the fall are the best times. The roots are very sensitive to lack of moisture and to sunlight, so choose a cloudy, misty day for the absolute best results.
How to Transplant Bamboo
The roots of the bamboo plant are amazingly tough. You’ll need a sharp shovel or axe to cut the root bunches for bamboo plant moving. The easiest way is to use a chainsaw. Wear protective clothing and eye covering to prevent thrown rocks or splinters. Cut down through the earth about a foot away from the clump of stems. Make a complete circle through the dirt, slicing down about 12 inches. Slide a shovel underneath the clump and rock it up out of the ground. Plunge the root clump into a bucket of water immediately. Lean the stand of bamboo against a shed or fence, as this plant doesn’t do well if you lay it down on the ground. Have the moist hole already dug for the bamboo’s new home. Carry the bucket to the hole and transfer the clump of bamboo from the water to the soil. Cover the roots and water the plant very well. Cover the base of the plant with organic mulch such as dried leaves or grass clippings. Bamboo loves water, especially when it’s stressed, and mulch will shade the soil and help keep in as much moisture as possible. Set up some shade for the new bamboo plants by stretching cheesecloth or other light fabric over poles to create a sort of light tent. This will give the new bamboo clump some added protection while it establishes itself. Once you see fresh new shoots coming up, you can remove the shade fabric, but keep the soil moist throughout the year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
When I think of bamboo, I recall the virtual forest of bamboo on a Hawaiian vacation. Obviously, the weather there is consistently mild and, thus, the cold tolerance of bamboo plants is nil. Since most of us don’t live in such a paradise, growing cold hardy bamboo plants is a necessity. What are some cold weather bamboo varieties suitable for the colder USDA zones? Read on to find out.
About Cold Hardy Bamboo Varieties
Bamboo, in general, is a fast-growing evergreen. They are two ilks: Leptomorph and Pachymorph. Leptomorph bamboos have monopodial running rhizomes and spread vigorously. They need to be managed and, if not, are known to grow rampantly and willfully. Pachymorph refers to those bamboos that have sympodial clumping roots. The genus Fargesia is an example of a pachymorph or clumping variety that is also a cold tolerant bamboo variety. The hardy bamboo varieties of Fargesia are native understory plants found in the mountains of China under pines and along streams. Until recently, only a couple of species of Fargesia have been available. F. nitida and F. murieliae, both of which flowered and subsequently died within a 5-year period.
Cold Hardy Bamboo Plant Options
Today, there are a number of hardy bamboo varieties in the genus Fargesia that have the highest cold tolerance for bamboo plant cultivars. These cold tolerant bamboos create gorgeous evergreen hedges in shade to partial shaded locations. Fargesia bamboos grow to a height of 8-16 feet tall, depending upon the variety and are all clumping bamboos that do no spread more that 4-6 inches per year. They will grow almost anywhere in the United States, including the southern to southeast climactic zones where it is very hot and humid. F. denudate is an example of these cold weather bamboos that has an arching habit and is not only cold tolerant, but tolerates heat and humidity as well. It is suitable to USDA zone 5-9. F. robusta (or ‘Pingwu’) is an upright bamboo with a clumping habit and, like the previous bamboo, handles the heat and humidity of the Southeastern United States. ‘Pingwu’ will do well in USDA zones 6-9. F. rufa ‘Oprins Selection’ (or Green Panda), is another clumping, cold hardy and heat tolerant bamboo. It grows to 10 feet and is hardy to USDA zones 5-9. This is the bamboo that is the favorite food of the giant panda and will grow well in most any environment. A newer varietal, F. scabrida (or Asian Wonder) has narrow leaves with orange culm sheaths and steel-blue stems when young that mature to an olive green. A good selection for USDA zones 5-8. With these new varieties of cold hardy bamboos, everyone can bring a little piece of paradise into their home garden.
About Cold Hardy Bamboo Varieties
Bamboo, in general, is a fast-growing evergreen. They are two ilks: Leptomorph and Pachymorph. Leptomorph bamboos have monopodial running rhizomes and spread vigorously. They need to be managed and, if not, are known to grow rampantly and willfully. Pachymorph refers to those bamboos that have sympodial clumping roots. The genus Fargesia is an example of a pachymorph or clumping variety that is also a cold tolerant bamboo variety. The hardy bamboo varieties of Fargesia are native understory plants found in the mountains of China under pines and along streams. Until recently, only a couple of species of Fargesia have been available. F. nitida and F. murieliae, both of which flowered and subsequently died within a 5-year period.
Cold Hardy Bamboo Plant Options
Today, there are a number of hardy bamboo varieties in the genus Fargesia that have the highest cold tolerance for bamboo plant cultivars. These cold tolerant bamboos create gorgeous evergreen hedges in shade to partial shaded locations. Fargesia bamboos grow to a height of 8-16 feet tall, depending upon the variety and are all clumping bamboos that do no spread more that 4-6 inches per year. They will grow almost anywhere in the United States, including the southern to southeast climactic zones where it is very hot and humid. F. denudate is an example of these cold weather bamboos that has an arching habit and is not only cold tolerant, but tolerates heat and humidity as well. It is suitable to USDA zone 5-9. F. robusta (or ‘Pingwu’) is an upright bamboo with a clumping habit and, like the previous bamboo, handles the heat and humidity of the Southeastern United States. ‘Pingwu’ will do well in USDA zones 6-9. F. rufa ‘Oprins Selection’ (or Green Panda), is another clumping, cold hardy and heat tolerant bamboo. It grows to 10 feet and is hardy to USDA zones 5-9. This is the bamboo that is the favorite food of the giant panda and will grow well in most any environment. A newer varietal, F. scabrida (or Asian Wonder) has narrow leaves with orange culm sheaths and steel-blue stems when young that mature to an olive green. A good selection for USDA zones 5-8. With these new varieties of cold hardy bamboos, everyone can bring a little piece of paradise into their home garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
There are over one thousand species of bamboo. Some are majestic giants soaring to over one-hundred feet in the air. Others are shrub-like, growing only three feet tall. Bamboo plants belong to the grass family. They are more closely related to turf grass than they are to a tree. Most bamboos hail from the tropics, but there are also many temperate bamboos. A few can even survive freezing mountain temperatures. While these plants are generally hardy, when bamboo leaves are yellow, this could signal an issue. Read on to learn more.
Yellowing Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is a popular ornamental and edible plant. Many homeowners and gardeners plant bamboo because it can screen out unwanted views or create a private space. Bamboo is fast growing and spreads quickly. Like all ornamental plants, bamboo has certain requirements to stay healthy. True bamboo has hollow stems and bright green leaves. If your bamboo leaves are yellow, this could be a sign that your plant is failing.
How to Treat Yellow Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is an evergreen plant. All evergreen plants lose their leaves, but they don’t lose them all at once like their deciduous friends. Some yellowing bamboo leaves and dropping bamboo leaves are normal processes throughout the year. There will be a bit more leaf loss in the spring. So if just a few of your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, this is probably normal attrition. If large parts or all of your bamboo is turning yellow, however, then you most likely have a problem. Problematic yellowing bamboo leaves can be due to low soil nutrients, boggy soil or overwatering, lack of water, or stressful growing situations. If you want help for yellow bamboo leaves, check the soil regularly. Bamboo needs good drainage. If the soil is mucky and boggy, then you are overwatering or the bamboo is planted in the wrong spot. Reduce irrigation. If your soil is really dry, then you need to increase your irrigation run time and/or frequency. Bamboo likes a lot of water and is not a drought tolerant plant. Remember that bamboo plants spread wider and wider each year. You will need to adapt your irrigation set-up as the bamboo grows. Allow the bamboo leaf litter to stay on the ground rather than rake it up. This helps hold moisture in the soil. Bamboo plants like acidic, rich, loamy soil. Bamboo will benefit from regular, yearly applications of organic compost. Organic compost provides a variety of soil nutrients at a modest rate. It also helps hold soil nutrients for your bamboo plants to use and opens up heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well. Stressful growing situations for your bamboo plants could mean the site is too windy, too hot, too dry, or too polluted. If you have one of these situations, you may need to mitigate it by growing a windbreak, adding more irrigation water or reducing nearby applications of chemical pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers. Growing bamboo is fun and easy. One of the most exciting aspects of growing bamboo is to witness how quickly it grows. If your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, try some of these suggestions to get your bamboo back on track.
Yellowing Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is a popular ornamental and edible plant. Many homeowners and gardeners plant bamboo because it can screen out unwanted views or create a private space. Bamboo is fast growing and spreads quickly. Like all ornamental plants, bamboo has certain requirements to stay healthy. True bamboo has hollow stems and bright green leaves. If your bamboo leaves are yellow, this could be a sign that your plant is failing.
How to Treat Yellow Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is an evergreen plant. All evergreen plants lose their leaves, but they don’t lose them all at once like their deciduous friends. Some yellowing bamboo leaves and dropping bamboo leaves are normal processes throughout the year. There will be a bit more leaf loss in the spring. So if just a few of your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, this is probably normal attrition. If large parts or all of your bamboo is turning yellow, however, then you most likely have a problem. Problematic yellowing bamboo leaves can be due to low soil nutrients, boggy soil or overwatering, lack of water, or stressful growing situations. If you want help for yellow bamboo leaves, check the soil regularly. Bamboo needs good drainage. If the soil is mucky and boggy, then you are overwatering or the bamboo is planted in the wrong spot. Reduce irrigation. If your soil is really dry, then you need to increase your irrigation run time and/or frequency. Bamboo likes a lot of water and is not a drought tolerant plant. Remember that bamboo plants spread wider and wider each year. You will need to adapt your irrigation set-up as the bamboo grows. Allow the bamboo leaf litter to stay on the ground rather than rake it up. This helps hold moisture in the soil. Bamboo plants like acidic, rich, loamy soil. Bamboo will benefit from regular, yearly applications of organic compost. Organic compost provides a variety of soil nutrients at a modest rate. It also helps hold soil nutrients for your bamboo plants to use and opens up heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well. Stressful growing situations for your bamboo plants could mean the site is too windy, too hot, too dry, or too polluted. If you have one of these situations, you may need to mitigate it by growing a windbreak, adding more irrigation water or reducing nearby applications of chemical pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers. Growing bamboo is fun and easy. One of the most exciting aspects of growing bamboo is to witness how quickly it grows. If your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, try some of these suggestions to get your bamboo back on track.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Foxtail asparagus ferns are unusual and attractive evergreen flowering plants and have many uses in the landscape and beyond. Asparagus densiflorus ‘Myers’ is related to the asparagus fern ‘Sprengeri’ and is actually a member of the lily family. Let’s find out how to take care of a foxtail fern in the garden.
About Foxtail Ferns
Foxtail ferns are not really ferns, as they’re multiplied from seeds and produce no spores. The common name likely came from the clumping habit of the plant that is similar to that of a fern.
Foxtail asparagus ferns have an unusual, symmetrical look. These fern-like plants have arching plumes of tightly packed, needle-like leaves that look soft and delicate. Foxtail fern plants bloom with white flowers and produce red berries. The plants appear fragile and may cause gardeners to shy away from them, expecting difficult and extensive care of foxtail fern. Don’t let the appearance deceive you, however. In reality, foxtail ferns are tough and hardy specimens, flourishing with limited care. Foxtail fern plants are drought resistant once established. Learning how to take care of a foxtail fern is far from difficult.
How to Take Care of a Foxtail Fern
Plant the outdoor foxtail fern in a lightly shaded area, particularly avoiding hot afternoon sun in the hottest zones. The potted specimen outside can take gentle morning sun with light shade for the rest of the day. Indoors, locate the foxtail in bright light and even direct morning sun in winter. Provide humidity to plants growing indoors. Foxtail fern plants benefit from regular water during drought and seasonal fertilization. These plants demonstrate their need for fertilization when the needle-like leaves turn pale or yellow. Feed this plant in spring with a time released food or monthly during the growing season with a balanced 10-10-10 plant food at half strength. Keep the soil lightly moist. Allow the top 3 inches of soil to dry out between waterings. The foxtail, also called ponytail fern or emerald fern, benefits from immersion for thorough watering. Prune back yellowing stems on the plant as needed for a tidy appearance and to encourage new growth. The ripe red berries on foxtail ferns after flowering contain seeds to propagate for more of the lovely plants. You can also divide foxtail fern plants in spring, making sure the tuberous root system is entirely covered with a well draining soil. Tubers may grow through the top of the soil on plants that are overcrowded in the pot.
Uses for Foxtail Fern Plants
Take advantage of this attractive plant for many of your gardening needs. Bottlebrush-like plumes of foxtail fern plants are versatile; useful in the perennial border alongside other flowering plants, in outdoor containers and as houseplants for winter months. Foxtail ferns have a moderate salt tolerance, so include them in your seaside plantings when a finely textured plant is desired in USDA Zones 9-11. In colder zones, grow the plant as an annual or in a container to bring inside for the winter. Foxtail plumes are also useful as greenery in cut flower arrangements, lasting for two to three weeks before the foliage yellows.
About Foxtail Ferns
Foxtail ferns are not really ferns, as they’re multiplied from seeds and produce no spores. The common name likely came from the clumping habit of the plant that is similar to that of a fern.
Foxtail asparagus ferns have an unusual, symmetrical look. These fern-like plants have arching plumes of tightly packed, needle-like leaves that look soft and delicate. Foxtail fern plants bloom with white flowers and produce red berries. The plants appear fragile and may cause gardeners to shy away from them, expecting difficult and extensive care of foxtail fern. Don’t let the appearance deceive you, however. In reality, foxtail ferns are tough and hardy specimens, flourishing with limited care. Foxtail fern plants are drought resistant once established. Learning how to take care of a foxtail fern is far from difficult.
How to Take Care of a Foxtail Fern
Plant the outdoor foxtail fern in a lightly shaded area, particularly avoiding hot afternoon sun in the hottest zones. The potted specimen outside can take gentle morning sun with light shade for the rest of the day. Indoors, locate the foxtail in bright light and even direct morning sun in winter. Provide humidity to plants growing indoors. Foxtail fern plants benefit from regular water during drought and seasonal fertilization. These plants demonstrate their need for fertilization when the needle-like leaves turn pale or yellow. Feed this plant in spring with a time released food or monthly during the growing season with a balanced 10-10-10 plant food at half strength. Keep the soil lightly moist. Allow the top 3 inches of soil to dry out between waterings. The foxtail, also called ponytail fern or emerald fern, benefits from immersion for thorough watering. Prune back yellowing stems on the plant as needed for a tidy appearance and to encourage new growth. The ripe red berries on foxtail ferns after flowering contain seeds to propagate for more of the lovely plants. You can also divide foxtail fern plants in spring, making sure the tuberous root system is entirely covered with a well draining soil. Tubers may grow through the top of the soil on plants that are overcrowded in the pot.
Uses for Foxtail Fern Plants
Take advantage of this attractive plant for many of your gardening needs. Bottlebrush-like plumes of foxtail fern plants are versatile; useful in the perennial border alongside other flowering plants, in outdoor containers and as houseplants for winter months. Foxtail ferns have a moderate salt tolerance, so include them in your seaside plantings when a finely textured plant is desired in USDA Zones 9-11. In colder zones, grow the plant as an annual or in a container to bring inside for the winter. Foxtail plumes are also useful as greenery in cut flower arrangements, lasting for two to three weeks before the foliage yellows.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Herbs are fun, easy to grow plants, celebrated for their culinary and medicinal uses. One of the lesser known or rather underutilized in some regions, is the southernwood herb plant, also known as southernwood Artemisia. Read on to learn more.
What is Southernwood Artemisia?
Native growing southernwood herb plant can be found in regions of Spain and Italy and has since been naturalized in the United States where it grows wild. This member of Asteraceae is related to European wormwood or absinthe.
Southernwood Artemisia (Artemisia abrotanum) is a woody, perennial herb with gray-green, fern-like leaves that, when crushed, emits a sweet lemony aroma. This gray-green foliage is slightly haired, growing less so as the season progresses. Leaves are small, alternate with yellow-white dioecious flowers that bloom in late summer in southern regions. Artemisia grown in northern areas rarely flowers. Southernwood herb plants grow to a height of between 3 and 5 feet tall with a spread of about 2 feet across. There are over 200 species in the Artemisia genus. Depending upon the variety, the essential oil in the crushed leaves may emit an aroma of lemon, as mentioned, or even camphor or tangerine. With such a dizzying array, southernwood Artemisia has just as many aliases. Southernwood has been referred to as Applering, Boy’s Love, European Sage, Garden Sagebrush, and Lad’s Love due to its reputation as an aphrodisiac. It’s also known as Lover’s Plant, Maid’s Ruin, Our Lord’s Wood, Southern Wormwood and Old Man Wormwood in reference to the plants rather tattered looking winter foliage, which protects it from harsh winds in northern climates. The name ‘Southernwood’ has Old English roots and means “woody plant that comes from the south.” The genus name, Artemisia, is derived from the Greek word “abros,” meaning delicate and stems from Artemis, the Goddess of chastity. Artemis was also known as Diana, the Mother of all Creatures and Goddess of the Herbalist, the Hunt and Wild things.
How to Grow Southernwood Artemisia
Southernwood plant care is similar to that of most herbs hailing from the Mediterranean. These herbs like full to partial sun, well draining soil, and adequate moisture although they are tolerant of drought. Growing southernwood is usually cultivated for its essential oil, which contains absinthol and is used in herbal teas, potpourris or medicinally. The young shoots were used to add flavor to pastries and puddings, while branches were used to dye wool a deep yellow hue. Medicinally, southernwood herb plants were used as an antiseptic, astringent, stimulant and tonic, and have also been used to fight coughs, tumors and cancers. There is some thought that southernwood Artemisia can also be used as an insect repellent. When used in a potpourri or sachet, ancient cultural myth implies that southernwood’s aroma will summon one’s beloved. Maybe it won’t summon your beloved; in any case, southernwood plant is a unique specimen to add to the home gardener’s collection in the herb garden.
What is Southernwood Artemisia?
Native growing southernwood herb plant can be found in regions of Spain and Italy and has since been naturalized in the United States where it grows wild. This member of Asteraceae is related to European wormwood or absinthe.
Southernwood Artemisia (Artemisia abrotanum) is a woody, perennial herb with gray-green, fern-like leaves that, when crushed, emits a sweet lemony aroma. This gray-green foliage is slightly haired, growing less so as the season progresses. Leaves are small, alternate with yellow-white dioecious flowers that bloom in late summer in southern regions. Artemisia grown in northern areas rarely flowers. Southernwood herb plants grow to a height of between 3 and 5 feet tall with a spread of about 2 feet across. There are over 200 species in the Artemisia genus. Depending upon the variety, the essential oil in the crushed leaves may emit an aroma of lemon, as mentioned, or even camphor or tangerine. With such a dizzying array, southernwood Artemisia has just as many aliases. Southernwood has been referred to as Applering, Boy’s Love, European Sage, Garden Sagebrush, and Lad’s Love due to its reputation as an aphrodisiac. It’s also known as Lover’s Plant, Maid’s Ruin, Our Lord’s Wood, Southern Wormwood and Old Man Wormwood in reference to the plants rather tattered looking winter foliage, which protects it from harsh winds in northern climates. The name ‘Southernwood’ has Old English roots and means “woody plant that comes from the south.” The genus name, Artemisia, is derived from the Greek word “abros,” meaning delicate and stems from Artemis, the Goddess of chastity. Artemis was also known as Diana, the Mother of all Creatures and Goddess of the Herbalist, the Hunt and Wild things.
How to Grow Southernwood Artemisia
Southernwood plant care is similar to that of most herbs hailing from the Mediterranean. These herbs like full to partial sun, well draining soil, and adequate moisture although they are tolerant of drought. Growing southernwood is usually cultivated for its essential oil, which contains absinthol and is used in herbal teas, potpourris or medicinally. The young shoots were used to add flavor to pastries and puddings, while branches were used to dye wool a deep yellow hue. Medicinally, southernwood herb plants were used as an antiseptic, astringent, stimulant and tonic, and have also been used to fight coughs, tumors and cancers. There is some thought that southernwood Artemisia can also be used as an insect repellent. When used in a potpourri or sachet, ancient cultural myth implies that southernwood’s aroma will summon one’s beloved. Maybe it won’t summon your beloved; in any case, southernwood plant is a unique specimen to add to the home gardener’s collection in the herb garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Cactus collectors love the little Astrophytum star cactus. It is a spineless cactus with a chubby round body resembling a sand dollar. Star cactus plants are easy to grow and make an interesting part of a succulent or arid garden display. Find out how to grow a star cactus and add this adorable little specimen to your dish garden or succulent pot.
Astrophytum Star Cactus Characteristics
The common names for plants are often the most descriptive and a fun way to learn about the plant. Star cactus plants (Astrophytum asteria) are also known as sea urchin cactus, sand dollar cactus or star peyote — which refers to the flower. They are also very similar in nature to Peyote cactus plants. The round body may grow 2 to 6 inches across with gently ridged sides. It is green to grayish brown and covered in tiny white dots that radiate down the ridges. The body has eight sections which are decorated with fine white hairs. The lucky gardener that provides excellent Astrophytum cactus care will be rewarded in March to May with 3-inch yellow flowers that boast orange centers. These turn into drupes or berries in late spring, which may be gray, pink or reddish and covered in wooly hair.
How to Grow a Star Cactus
The plant has been overly collected in its habitat and the wild population is threatened. Get your star cactus plants from an accredited nursery that grows them from seed. This cactus is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 to 9 but does perfectly well in a sunny window in the home. If you get your hands on seeds, start them in seed flats with a sandy composite soil mix. Keep the soil moist until germination and then move them to a sunny location with protection from noonday sun. Mist the soil when caring for star cactus babies as overhead watering can damage the tender tissues. They will need to be kept moist until the seedling is robust and at least ½ inch tall.
Astrophytum Cactus Care
Novice gardeners love the ease of cacti care as interior plants. They thrive on neglect, although star cactus plants will need water occasionally. The body will flatten out and turn brown if it is in dire need of water. Pot them up in a purchased cactus mix or equal parts potting soil and sand. The container should be free draining and unglazed so excess moisture evaporates readily. April is the best time to repot, but actually the plants like to be pot bound so this doesn’t need to be done frequently. Fertilize June to September when caring for star cactus. Reduce the amount of water you give in the dormant winter months. Root rots, scab and mealybugs prey on this plant. Watch for signs and treat immediately.
Astrophytum Star Cactus Characteristics
The common names for plants are often the most descriptive and a fun way to learn about the plant. Star cactus plants (Astrophytum asteria) are also known as sea urchin cactus, sand dollar cactus or star peyote — which refers to the flower. They are also very similar in nature to Peyote cactus plants. The round body may grow 2 to 6 inches across with gently ridged sides. It is green to grayish brown and covered in tiny white dots that radiate down the ridges. The body has eight sections which are decorated with fine white hairs. The lucky gardener that provides excellent Astrophytum cactus care will be rewarded in March to May with 3-inch yellow flowers that boast orange centers. These turn into drupes or berries in late spring, which may be gray, pink or reddish and covered in wooly hair.
How to Grow a Star Cactus
The plant has been overly collected in its habitat and the wild population is threatened. Get your star cactus plants from an accredited nursery that grows them from seed. This cactus is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 to 9 but does perfectly well in a sunny window in the home. If you get your hands on seeds, start them in seed flats with a sandy composite soil mix. Keep the soil moist until germination and then move them to a sunny location with protection from noonday sun. Mist the soil when caring for star cactus babies as overhead watering can damage the tender tissues. They will need to be kept moist until the seedling is robust and at least ½ inch tall.
Astrophytum Cactus Care
Novice gardeners love the ease of cacti care as interior plants. They thrive on neglect, although star cactus plants will need water occasionally. The body will flatten out and turn brown if it is in dire need of water. Pot them up in a purchased cactus mix or equal parts potting soil and sand. The container should be free draining and unglazed so excess moisture evaporates readily. April is the best time to repot, but actually the plants like to be pot bound so this doesn’t need to be done frequently. Fertilize June to September when caring for star cactus. Reduce the amount of water you give in the dormant winter months. Root rots, scab and mealybugs prey on this plant. Watch for signs and treat immediately.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Drought tolerant plants are important parts of the home landscape. Prickly pear plant is an excellent arid garden specimen that is appropriate for USDA plant hardiness zones 9 to 11. Growing prickly pear in colder climates can be done in containers where they are moved indoors when cold temperatures threaten. The question, “How to grow prickly pear?” is best answered with a little background on the plant.
Prickly Pear Plant Characteristics
Prickly pears are vigorously growing cactus with detachable spines which means they may not be suitable for every garden. The plants are perfect for the hot as a griddle areas of your garden. The plant is comprised of wide, flat, thick pads that are covered in spines and segmented stems. There are 181 species of prickly pear plant that range from low growing plants just over a foot high to 18 foot high giants.
Types of Prickly Pear
The wide range of cactus available for the home garden, provide a plant for every warm season situation. The diminutive Beavertail prickly pear (Opuntia basilaris) has bluish gray pads that are slightly triangular in shape and carried on a 20 inch tall frame that can spread 20 to 30 inches wide. The Indian fig prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica) is a monster of a cactus that grows in a treelike habit. It bears an edible fruit and large orange or yellow flowers. The types of prickly pear have numerous descriptive names, among them bunny ears (Opuntia microdasys) and cow’s tongue (Opuntia engelmannii).
Planting Prickly Pear
The first thing to remember when planting prickly pear is to wear thick gloves and full length sleeves. It will be helpful to have a second pair of hands to keep the cactus stable when lowering it into the hole. Plant the prickly pear at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Some exterior support may be necessary for larger specimens while it establishes. Planting prickly pear cactus requires careful handling to avoid damaging the plant and you.
How to Grow a Prickly Pear
Prickly pears are easy to grow. They need well-drained soil and can survive on rainwater after established. During rooting, the plant should be irrigated every two or three weeks. When you choose a cactus, consider the size it will eventually become and plant it away from pathways and areas where people will brush against it. Growing prickly pear successfully relies on a warm, dry climate. You can easily grow your own prickly pear. Propagation from pads is quick and quite simple. The pads are actually specialized flattened stems. Six month old pads are removed from the plant and set out in a dry area to form a callus on the cut end for several weeks. A half and half mix of soil and sand is good for planting prickly pear pads. The pad will form roots in a few months. During this time, it needs support and should not be watered. The pad can be watered after it will stand on its own.
Prickly Pear Plant Characteristics
Prickly pears are vigorously growing cactus with detachable spines which means they may not be suitable for every garden. The plants are perfect for the hot as a griddle areas of your garden. The plant is comprised of wide, flat, thick pads that are covered in spines and segmented stems. There are 181 species of prickly pear plant that range from low growing plants just over a foot high to 18 foot high giants.
Types of Prickly Pear
The wide range of cactus available for the home garden, provide a plant for every warm season situation. The diminutive Beavertail prickly pear (Opuntia basilaris) has bluish gray pads that are slightly triangular in shape and carried on a 20 inch tall frame that can spread 20 to 30 inches wide. The Indian fig prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica) is a monster of a cactus that grows in a treelike habit. It bears an edible fruit and large orange or yellow flowers. The types of prickly pear have numerous descriptive names, among them bunny ears (Opuntia microdasys) and cow’s tongue (Opuntia engelmannii).
Planting Prickly Pear
The first thing to remember when planting prickly pear is to wear thick gloves and full length sleeves. It will be helpful to have a second pair of hands to keep the cactus stable when lowering it into the hole. Plant the prickly pear at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Some exterior support may be necessary for larger specimens while it establishes. Planting prickly pear cactus requires careful handling to avoid damaging the plant and you.
How to Grow a Prickly Pear
Prickly pears are easy to grow. They need well-drained soil and can survive on rainwater after established. During rooting, the plant should be irrigated every two or three weeks. When you choose a cactus, consider the size it will eventually become and plant it away from pathways and areas where people will brush against it. Growing prickly pear successfully relies on a warm, dry climate. You can easily grow your own prickly pear. Propagation from pads is quick and quite simple. The pads are actually specialized flattened stems. Six month old pads are removed from the plant and set out in a dry area to form a callus on the cut end for several weeks. A half and half mix of soil and sand is good for planting prickly pear pads. The pad will form roots in a few months. During this time, it needs support and should not be watered. The pad can be watered after it will stand on its own.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Cactus are tough plants with many useful adaptations but even they can be laid low by tiny fungal spores. Phyllosticta pad spot is one of the fungal diseases that affects cactus in the Opuntia family. Phyllosticta symptoms in prickly pears are most prevalent and plants with the disease are at risk of cosmetic and vigor damage. Certain times of the year are the worst, but fortunately, once conditions dry out, the damaged areas abort the fungus and heal to a certain degree.
Phyllosticta Symptoms in Prickly Pears
Prickly pear leaf spot is a disease of that plant and others in the Opuntia family. The disease is brought about by tiny spores from the Phyllostica fungus. These colonize on the tissues, primarily the pads, of the cactus and eat into it causing lesions. There is no recommended treatment for Phyllosticta fungus, but it can spread to other ornamental plants and removal of infected pads and plant material is suggested to prevent the disease from reaching other species.
In the cactus family, prickly pears are most affected by Phyllosticta concava. The disease is also called dry rot because it leaves lesions on the plant, which eventually callus and do not weep fluid like other fungal diseases. The disease starts out with dark, almost black, irregularly circular lesions which that in size from 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Tiny reproductive structures, called pycnidia, produce the dark color. These produce and release the spores which can infect other plants. As conditions change, the spots will fall out of the cactus and the area will callus over, leaving scars on the pads. No serious damage is done, provided the weather conditions transition to warm and dry.
Phyllostica Control in Cactus
For the most part, prickly pear leaf spot does not harm the plants but it is contagious and it does damage young pads the most. Lower pads are the most severely affected, as these are close to the ground. The spores spread through wind or splashing activity. The disease is active during the rainy season and where humidity is high. Once the weather changes to dry conditions, the fungus becomes inactive and falls out of the plant tissue. Severely affected tissue can develop many lesions, making way for the introduction of other pathogens and insects which can cause more damage than prickly pear leaf spot. Experts do not recommend fungicide or any other treatment for Phyllosticta fungus. This is probably due to the fact that the fungus is short acting and weather conditions usually improve, deactivating the disease. Additionally, the fungus doesn’t appear to impair the plant in most cases.
Suggested Phyllosticta control in cactus is removal of infected parts. This is the case where pads have been invaded by numerous lesions and the numerous fruiting bodies pose an infection potential to the rest of the plant and surrounding species. Composting the infected plant material may not kill the spores. Therefore, bagging and discarding the pads is advised.
Phyllosticta Symptoms in Prickly Pears
Prickly pear leaf spot is a disease of that plant and others in the Opuntia family. The disease is brought about by tiny spores from the Phyllostica fungus. These colonize on the tissues, primarily the pads, of the cactus and eat into it causing lesions. There is no recommended treatment for Phyllosticta fungus, but it can spread to other ornamental plants and removal of infected pads and plant material is suggested to prevent the disease from reaching other species.
In the cactus family, prickly pears are most affected by Phyllosticta concava. The disease is also called dry rot because it leaves lesions on the plant, which eventually callus and do not weep fluid like other fungal diseases. The disease starts out with dark, almost black, irregularly circular lesions which that in size from 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Tiny reproductive structures, called pycnidia, produce the dark color. These produce and release the spores which can infect other plants. As conditions change, the spots will fall out of the cactus and the area will callus over, leaving scars on the pads. No serious damage is done, provided the weather conditions transition to warm and dry.
Phyllostica Control in Cactus
For the most part, prickly pear leaf spot does not harm the plants but it is contagious and it does damage young pads the most. Lower pads are the most severely affected, as these are close to the ground. The spores spread through wind or splashing activity. The disease is active during the rainy season and where humidity is high. Once the weather changes to dry conditions, the fungus becomes inactive and falls out of the plant tissue. Severely affected tissue can develop many lesions, making way for the introduction of other pathogens and insects which can cause more damage than prickly pear leaf spot. Experts do not recommend fungicide or any other treatment for Phyllosticta fungus. This is probably due to the fact that the fungus is short acting and weather conditions usually improve, deactivating the disease. Additionally, the fungus doesn’t appear to impair the plant in most cases.
Suggested Phyllosticta control in cactus is removal of infected parts. This is the case where pads have been invaded by numerous lesions and the numerous fruiting bodies pose an infection potential to the rest of the plant and surrounding species. Composting the infected plant material may not kill the spores. Therefore, bagging and discarding the pads is advised.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Opuntia ficus-indica is more commonly known as a Barbary fig. This desert plant has been used for centuries as food, fending, and even dye. Growing Barbary fig plants, as long as you live in the right climate, is both rewarding and useful.
What is a Barbary Fig?
Barbary fig, a variety of prickly pear cactus, is thought to be native to Mexico where it has long been used for a variety of purposes. The fruits and pads can be eaten by humans and livestock, and the size, sprawling growth, and thorns make this cactus a good natural fence and barrier.
The insects that are used to make red dye feed on prickly pear, which has made it an economically useful plant. Today, the plant has spread far from Mexico. It is common in the southwest U.S. and is considered invasive in Africa. While Opuntia/Barbary fig info is practical for so many purposes, this plant is also great as simply an attractive addition to the garden. The plant grows green “pads,” which are covered in spines. At the tips of the pads, yellow to orange flowers bloom, followed by red fruits. The fruits are also known as tunas. Both these and the pads can be prepared and eaten.
How to Grow a Barbary Fig
As a cactus, this plant requires a desert climate to thrive: dry, hot conditions. It is hardy through zone 8, but is best in hotter regions. For the right location, Barbary fig care is easy. Give it a spot that gets full sun and little water. If you live in the desert, you can essentially put your cactus in a suitable area of the garden and leave it alone. It will grow and thrive. If you want to grow it indoors, it will do well in a container that is big enough. With the right sunny spot and dry soil, your Barbary fig may grow as tall as ten feet (3 meters), so give it plenty of space, or plan spacing accordingly if you want to use it as a fence.
What is a Barbary Fig?
Barbary fig, a variety of prickly pear cactus, is thought to be native to Mexico where it has long been used for a variety of purposes. The fruits and pads can be eaten by humans and livestock, and the size, sprawling growth, and thorns make this cactus a good natural fence and barrier.
The insects that are used to make red dye feed on prickly pear, which has made it an economically useful plant. Today, the plant has spread far from Mexico. It is common in the southwest U.S. and is considered invasive in Africa. While Opuntia/Barbary fig info is practical for so many purposes, this plant is also great as simply an attractive addition to the garden. The plant grows green “pads,” which are covered in spines. At the tips of the pads, yellow to orange flowers bloom, followed by red fruits. The fruits are also known as tunas. Both these and the pads can be prepared and eaten.
How to Grow a Barbary Fig
As a cactus, this plant requires a desert climate to thrive: dry, hot conditions. It is hardy through zone 8, but is best in hotter regions. For the right location, Barbary fig care is easy. Give it a spot that gets full sun and little water. If you live in the desert, you can essentially put your cactus in a suitable area of the garden and leave it alone. It will grow and thrive. If you want to grow it indoors, it will do well in a container that is big enough. With the right sunny spot and dry soil, your Barbary fig may grow as tall as ten feet (3 meters), so give it plenty of space, or plan spacing accordingly if you want to use it as a fence.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Growing pincushion cactus is an easy gardening project for the novice gardener. The plants are drought tolerant and native to the arid upper Sonoran desert. They are small cacti that make excellent additions to succulent displays. Pincushion cactus plant is a perennial that is most often found in heavily grazed pastureland and woody scrub.
Pincushion Cactus Plant Varieties
Pincushion cactus is a member of a family called Mammillaria, which includes 250 species of cactus. Some of the species of pincushion have colorful names. The Giant Snake or Crawling Log cactus (Mammillaria matudae) produce long stems. Snowball cushion cactus (Mammillaria candida) is a ball-shaped plant with white felt or fuzz on the skin of the plant. Old Lady cactus (Mammillaria hahniana) is a solitary cactus with white fuzzy hair-like spines and purplish red flowers. There are also Powder puff (Mammillaria bocasa-na) and Rose (Mammillaria zeilmanniana) among many others. Cactus and succulent stores can provide you with more pincushion cactus information.
Pincushion Cactus Information
Pincushion cacti are small, squat plants that usually don’t grow more than 6 inches in height. They can be ball or barrel shaped, and are native to the warmer regions of the United States. The pincushion cactus plant is most commonly grown indoors but it can tolerate some chilling temperatures if grown outside. Pincushion cactus is so called because it is covered in white spines over the entire surface of the plant. It is a very prickly little specimen that is best handled with thick gloves.
Growing Pincushion Cactus
Pincushion cactus care is very simple and suitable for the beginning gardener. Cactus plants are used to dry conditions and limited fertility. The soil for a pincushion needs to be well drained and gritty. The soil needs to dry out between watering, which is best accomplished with a sandy topsoil. The cactus goes dormant in winter and needs no additional irrigation until spring. Potted plants do well in unglazed clay pots, which allow any extra moisture to evaporate. Temperatures should be between 50 and 75 F. (10-24 C.). Small gravel spread around the base of the plant out to the root zone will act as a mulch to deter stem rot. The cactus produces offsets when it is mature. These can be divided from the mother plant and potted in a sandy soil mixture. You can also start the plants from seed in spring. Plant seed in a flat filled with cactus mix. Surface sow and then sprinkle sand lightly over the top and moisten the soil evenly. Place the flat in a warm location of at least 70 F. (21 C.). Keep seeds wet when growing pincushion cactus. Seedlings are transplanted when they can easily be moved.
Flowering Pincushion Cactus
If optimum heat and watering conditions are met, the pincushion cactus may reward you with flowers in spring. Enhance the chance of blooming by holding off watering until several weeks into spring. You can also apply a cactus food in early spring to give the plant the nutrients it needs to produce blooms.
Pincushion Cactus Plant Varieties
Pincushion cactus is a member of a family called Mammillaria, which includes 250 species of cactus. Some of the species of pincushion have colorful names. The Giant Snake or Crawling Log cactus (Mammillaria matudae) produce long stems. Snowball cushion cactus (Mammillaria candida) is a ball-shaped plant with white felt or fuzz on the skin of the plant. Old Lady cactus (Mammillaria hahniana) is a solitary cactus with white fuzzy hair-like spines and purplish red flowers. There are also Powder puff (Mammillaria bocasa-na) and Rose (Mammillaria zeilmanniana) among many others. Cactus and succulent stores can provide you with more pincushion cactus information.
Pincushion Cactus Information
Pincushion cacti are small, squat plants that usually don’t grow more than 6 inches in height. They can be ball or barrel shaped, and are native to the warmer regions of the United States. The pincushion cactus plant is most commonly grown indoors but it can tolerate some chilling temperatures if grown outside. Pincushion cactus is so called because it is covered in white spines over the entire surface of the plant. It is a very prickly little specimen that is best handled with thick gloves.
Growing Pincushion Cactus
Pincushion cactus care is very simple and suitable for the beginning gardener. Cactus plants are used to dry conditions and limited fertility. The soil for a pincushion needs to be well drained and gritty. The soil needs to dry out between watering, which is best accomplished with a sandy topsoil. The cactus goes dormant in winter and needs no additional irrigation until spring. Potted plants do well in unglazed clay pots, which allow any extra moisture to evaporate. Temperatures should be between 50 and 75 F. (10-24 C.). Small gravel spread around the base of the plant out to the root zone will act as a mulch to deter stem rot. The cactus produces offsets when it is mature. These can be divided from the mother plant and potted in a sandy soil mixture. You can also start the plants from seed in spring. Plant seed in a flat filled with cactus mix. Surface sow and then sprinkle sand lightly over the top and moisten the soil evenly. Place the flat in a warm location of at least 70 F. (21 C.). Keep seeds wet when growing pincushion cactus. Seedlings are transplanted when they can easily be moved.
Flowering Pincushion Cactus
If optimum heat and watering conditions are met, the pincushion cactus may reward you with flowers in spring. Enhance the chance of blooming by holding off watering until several weeks into spring. You can also apply a cactus food in early spring to give the plant the nutrients it needs to produce blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
The Ocotillo is native to the Sonoran and Chihuahuan deserts. These spectacular plants grow in open stony, arid areas and are notable for their bright red flowers and whip-like stems. Wild ocotillo is also known as candlewood, slim wood, flaming sword and many other pictorial names. If you’re wondering, “why is my Ocotillo not blooming,” read on for some possible reasons and solutions to make this desert wonder fully flower.
Why is My Ocotillo Not Blooming?
Ocotillo plants are common in their native regions. The slender stems and tiny leaves are accents for the crimson blooms that decorate the tips of the branches. The plants make excellent natural screens and borders, adding bright garden accents during their bloom time. Native garden centers can provide you with healthy specimens of the plants for a natural and easy to grow desert landscape solution.
Also known as Jacob’s Staff, Ocotillo is a tenacious desert dweller which is mostly leafless until the rainy season. The oval leaves quickly disappear when the soil dries out, leaving behind spiny, skinny branches that may approach 15 feet in length. Their impressive height and rapid growth make these plants a natural for arid region screens or hedges. In spite of their mostly leafless state, the long stems are adorned with small spines which serve as an effective barrier to most, while creating shelter for tiny birds and animals. New plants should be planted in the same orientation in which they were grown. This is because the southernmost side has built up thicker tissue to resist harsh sun. Incorrect orientation can cause severe sunscald on the more tender northern side of the plant.
When Does Ocotillo Bloom?
When does Ocotillo bloom? March through June is the period in which to expect bright crimson-orange flowers on your Ocotillo. The Ocotillo blooming season is directed by the rainy season. Too much or too little rain can delay or inhibit Ocotillo flowers. The plants are quite sensitive to soil type and require gritty, well-draining soil. In fact, low fertility seems to be a key to making this plant happy. Using compost or excess fertilizer will actually result in an unhappy plant. Newly planted specimens benefit from consistent watering before establishment but, otherwise, the plants need very little special care. The 1- to 2-inch long red-lobed blooms will naturally fall off when they have been fertilized.
How to Make an Ocotillo Bloom
If you are frustrated by your plant’s inability to flower, take heart. Newly planted Ocotillos require some time to reestablish their root systems. This can inhibit blooming. Other factors that may delay flowering would be lack of water in late winter to early spring. Excess fertilizer or rich soil can also cause Ocotillo to produce few to no flowers. These plants really need fairly harsh conditions to thrive. They aren’t going to produce flowers in a wet, cold area either. Mimicking their native conditions is the how to make an Ocotillo bloom. As with any plant, they will thrive and perform best if they are in a site that closely resembles their wild soil, lighting and moisture conditions.
Why is My Ocotillo Not Blooming?
Ocotillo plants are common in their native regions. The slender stems and tiny leaves are accents for the crimson blooms that decorate the tips of the branches. The plants make excellent natural screens and borders, adding bright garden accents during their bloom time. Native garden centers can provide you with healthy specimens of the plants for a natural and easy to grow desert landscape solution.
Also known as Jacob’s Staff, Ocotillo is a tenacious desert dweller which is mostly leafless until the rainy season. The oval leaves quickly disappear when the soil dries out, leaving behind spiny, skinny branches that may approach 15 feet in length. Their impressive height and rapid growth make these plants a natural for arid region screens or hedges. In spite of their mostly leafless state, the long stems are adorned with small spines which serve as an effective barrier to most, while creating shelter for tiny birds and animals. New plants should be planted in the same orientation in which they were grown. This is because the southernmost side has built up thicker tissue to resist harsh sun. Incorrect orientation can cause severe sunscald on the more tender northern side of the plant.
When Does Ocotillo Bloom?
When does Ocotillo bloom? March through June is the period in which to expect bright crimson-orange flowers on your Ocotillo. The Ocotillo blooming season is directed by the rainy season. Too much or too little rain can delay or inhibit Ocotillo flowers. The plants are quite sensitive to soil type and require gritty, well-draining soil. In fact, low fertility seems to be a key to making this plant happy. Using compost or excess fertilizer will actually result in an unhappy plant. Newly planted specimens benefit from consistent watering before establishment but, otherwise, the plants need very little special care. The 1- to 2-inch long red-lobed blooms will naturally fall off when they have been fertilized.
How to Make an Ocotillo Bloom
If you are frustrated by your plant’s inability to flower, take heart. Newly planted Ocotillos require some time to reestablish their root systems. This can inhibit blooming. Other factors that may delay flowering would be lack of water in late winter to early spring. Excess fertilizer or rich soil can also cause Ocotillo to produce few to no flowers. These plants really need fairly harsh conditions to thrive. They aren’t going to produce flowers in a wet, cold area either. Mimicking their native conditions is the how to make an Ocotillo bloom. As with any plant, they will thrive and perform best if they are in a site that closely resembles their wild soil, lighting and moisture conditions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
If you’ve visited northern Mexico or the southwestern corner of the United States, you’ve likely seen ocotillo. Dramatic plants with statuesque, whip-like stems, ocotillos are difficult to miss, especially in springtime when the long, thorny canes are tipped with spikes of fiery red, tube-shaped blooms. Although ocotillo is usually an in-ground plant, there’s no reason you can’t grow ocotillo in containers. If this idea strikes your fancy, read on to learn about growing ocotillo in a pot.
How to Grow Ocotillo Plants in Containers
Ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens) is a desert plant that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. If you live in a cooler climate, bring the ocotillo indoors during fall and winter. The best ocotillo potting soil is a fast-draining potting mix such as a product formulated specifically for cactus and succulents. Plant the ocotillo in a container with at least one drainage hole. Don’t select an overly large container, as excess potting soil is likely to cause this succulent plant to rot. A pot just slightly larger than the root ball is ideal. The plant may become top-heavy, so use a container with a solid, heavy base to prevent tipping.
Caring for Potted Ocotillo Plants
Water lightly as necessary to keep the soil moist – but only until the roots are established. Thereafter, be extremely careful about overwatering ocotillo in containers. Like all succulents, ocotillo is prone to rot in damp soil. As a general rule, water only when the top 2 to 3 inches of soil is dry. Never allow the pot to stand in water. Water indoor ocotillo sparingly when the plant is dormant during the winter months. Watering too little is always better than overwatering, and once a month is usually sufficient. Place the container where the ocotillo is exposed to full sunlight. Without bright sunlight, ocotillo plants tend to become leggy and produce fewer blooms. Feed ocotillo in containers sparingly three times per year, using a balanced, general-purpose fertilizer. Withhold fertilizer during the winter months. Repot ocotillo into a container one size larger whenever the plant is rootbound, usually indicated by roots growing through the drainage hole. Spring is the best time for this task.
How to Grow Ocotillo Plants in Containers
Ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens) is a desert plant that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. If you live in a cooler climate, bring the ocotillo indoors during fall and winter. The best ocotillo potting soil is a fast-draining potting mix such as a product formulated specifically for cactus and succulents. Plant the ocotillo in a container with at least one drainage hole. Don’t select an overly large container, as excess potting soil is likely to cause this succulent plant to rot. A pot just slightly larger than the root ball is ideal. The plant may become top-heavy, so use a container with a solid, heavy base to prevent tipping.
Caring for Potted Ocotillo Plants
Water lightly as necessary to keep the soil moist – but only until the roots are established. Thereafter, be extremely careful about overwatering ocotillo in containers. Like all succulents, ocotillo is prone to rot in damp soil. As a general rule, water only when the top 2 to 3 inches of soil is dry. Never allow the pot to stand in water. Water indoor ocotillo sparingly when the plant is dormant during the winter months. Watering too little is always better than overwatering, and once a month is usually sufficient. Place the container where the ocotillo is exposed to full sunlight. Without bright sunlight, ocotillo plants tend to become leggy and produce fewer blooms. Feed ocotillo in containers sparingly three times per year, using a balanced, general-purpose fertilizer. Withhold fertilizer during the winter months. Repot ocotillo into a container one size larger whenever the plant is rootbound, usually indicated by roots growing through the drainage hole. Spring is the best time for this task.
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