文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
English ivy plants (Hedera helix) are superb climbers, clinging to almost any surface by means of small roots that grow along the stems. English ivy care is a snap, so you can plant it in distant and hard-to-reach areas without worrying about maintenance.
Growing English Ivy Plants
Plant English ivy in a shady area with an organically rich soil. If your soil lacks organic matter, amend it with compost before planting. Space the plants 18 to 24 inches apart, or 1 foot apart for quicker coverage.
The vines grow 50 feet long or more, but don’t expect quick results in the beginning. The first year after planting, the vines grow very slowly, and in the second year they begin to put on noticeable growth. By the third year the plants take off, and quickly cover trellises, walls, fences, trees or anything else they encounter.
These plants are useful as well as attractive. Hide unsightly views by growing English ivy as a screen on a trellis or as a cover for unattractive walls and structures. Since it loves shade, the vines make an ideal ground cover under a tree where grass refuses to grow. Indoors, grow English ivy in pots with a stake or other vertical structure for climbing, or in hanging baskets where it can tumble over the edges. You can also grow it in a pot with a shaped wire frame to create a topiary design. Variegated types are especially attractive when planted in this way.
How to Care for English Ivy
There’s very little involved with English ivy care. Water them often enough to keep the soil moist until the plants are established and growing. These vines grow best when they have plenty of moisture, but they tolerate dry conditions once established. When grown as a ground cover, shear off the tops of the plants in spring to rejuvenate the vines and discourage rodents. The foliage regrows quickly.
English ivy seldom needs fertilizer, but if you don’t think your plants are growing as they should, spray them with half-strength liquid fertilizer.
Growing English Ivy Plants
Plant English ivy in a shady area with an organically rich soil. If your soil lacks organic matter, amend it with compost before planting. Space the plants 18 to 24 inches apart, or 1 foot apart for quicker coverage.
The vines grow 50 feet long or more, but don’t expect quick results in the beginning. The first year after planting, the vines grow very slowly, and in the second year they begin to put on noticeable growth. By the third year the plants take off, and quickly cover trellises, walls, fences, trees or anything else they encounter.
These plants are useful as well as attractive. Hide unsightly views by growing English ivy as a screen on a trellis or as a cover for unattractive walls and structures. Since it loves shade, the vines make an ideal ground cover under a tree where grass refuses to grow. Indoors, grow English ivy in pots with a stake or other vertical structure for climbing, or in hanging baskets where it can tumble over the edges. You can also grow it in a pot with a shaped wire frame to create a topiary design. Variegated types are especially attractive when planted in this way.
How to Care for English Ivy
There’s very little involved with English ivy care. Water them often enough to keep the soil moist until the plants are established and growing. These vines grow best when they have plenty of moisture, but they tolerate dry conditions once established. When grown as a ground cover, shear off the tops of the plants in spring to rejuvenate the vines and discourage rodents. The foliage regrows quickly.
English ivy seldom needs fertilizer, but if you don’t think your plants are growing as they should, spray them with half-strength liquid fertilizer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Bronze Dutch clover plants (Trifolium repens Atropurpureum) look much like standard, low-growing clover – with a colorful twist; bronze Dutch clover plants produce a carpet of dark red leaves with contrasting green edges. Like familiar clover plants, bronze Dutch clover displays white blooms throughout most of the summer months. Read on to learn all you need to know about growing bronze Dutch clover.
Growing Bronze Dutch Clover
Bronze Dutch clover is easy to grow as long as you can provide well drained, lightly moist soil. The plants tolerate both full sunlight and partial shade, although afternoon shade is beneficial for growing bronze Dutch clover in hot climates. However, too much shade will produce green plants, and a few hours of daily sunlight brings out the red in the leaves.
Bronze Dutch Clover Lawns
Bronze Dutch clover spreads by runners both above and below ground, which means bronze Dutch clover plants expand easily, choking out weeds and controlling erosion in the process. The sturdy plants, which reach heights of 3 to 6 inches, tolerate moderate foot traffic. Although bronze Dutch clover lawns are spectacular, this plant is also stunning in woodland gardens, rock gardens, around ponds, over retaining walls, or in containers.
Caring for Dutch Clover
Work an inch or two of compost or manure into the ground at planting time to get the young plants off to a good start. Thereafter, clover produces its own nitrogen and requires no supplemental fertilizer. Similarly, clover produces its own living mulch and requires no extra mulch of any sort. Once established, bronze Dutch clover requires little attention. However, young plants benefit from regular irrigation to help the roots establish themselves. Two waterings per week is adequate in most climates, less if you live in a rainy climate. Mow the plants occasionally, as bronze Dutch clover lawns are most attractive when maintained at about 3 inches.
Is Bronze Dutch Clover Invasive?
All clovers are a valuable source of nectar for honeybees and other pollinators. However, improperly maintained plants may become invasive in certain habitats. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service or your state’s Department of Agriculture before planting Bronze Dutch clover.
Growing Bronze Dutch Clover
Bronze Dutch clover is easy to grow as long as you can provide well drained, lightly moist soil. The plants tolerate both full sunlight and partial shade, although afternoon shade is beneficial for growing bronze Dutch clover in hot climates. However, too much shade will produce green plants, and a few hours of daily sunlight brings out the red in the leaves.
Bronze Dutch Clover Lawns
Bronze Dutch clover spreads by runners both above and below ground, which means bronze Dutch clover plants expand easily, choking out weeds and controlling erosion in the process. The sturdy plants, which reach heights of 3 to 6 inches, tolerate moderate foot traffic. Although bronze Dutch clover lawns are spectacular, this plant is also stunning in woodland gardens, rock gardens, around ponds, over retaining walls, or in containers.
Caring for Dutch Clover
Work an inch or two of compost or manure into the ground at planting time to get the young plants off to a good start. Thereafter, clover produces its own nitrogen and requires no supplemental fertilizer. Similarly, clover produces its own living mulch and requires no extra mulch of any sort. Once established, bronze Dutch clover requires little attention. However, young plants benefit from regular irrigation to help the roots establish themselves. Two waterings per week is adequate in most climates, less if you live in a rainy climate. Mow the plants occasionally, as bronze Dutch clover lawns are most attractive when maintained at about 3 inches.
Is Bronze Dutch Clover Invasive?
All clovers are a valuable source of nectar for honeybees and other pollinators. However, improperly maintained plants may become invasive in certain habitats. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service or your state’s Department of Agriculture before planting Bronze Dutch clover.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
How to Care for Roses. Roses have an undeserved reputation for being fussy, hard-to-care-for plants. But after all, they're just shrubs. Some roses do require more maintenance than others, but growing roses is something even a beginner can do.
Spring Rose Care
Step 1
Prune roses in early spring once the rose starts to show signs of new growth, usually in the form of tiny red buds swelling. These buds will become new branches.
Step 2
Cut out any obviously dead or damaged branches first. Then cut out all but four or five healthy stems, each ideally about as thick as a pencil.
Step 3
Cut the rose bush back by 1/3 to 1/2, depending on how tall you want it to be. Make these cuts right above an outward facing bud - that is, a red bud that's on the outside of the rose bush. This directs the bud to grow up and out, leaving the center of the rose bush open for a prettier shape and better air circulation.
Step 4
Fertilize roses regularly during the growing season. Roses are hungry plants, demanding lots of nutrients for best growth and flowering. Each rose grower has his or her own favorite method. One of the easiest is to buy a slow-release granular rose food and work it into the soil so it can feed the plant all season long. Otherwise, you'll want to fertilize the rose with a liquid fertilizer every three to four weeks during the growing season (stop in early autumn) or according to package directions.
Step 5
Water diligently. Roses need a steady source of water during the growing season, about 1 inch a week from rain or watering. In arid regions of the country, if you have several roses, consider installing a do-it-yourself drip irrigation system.
Summer Rose Care
Step 6
Mulch. Roses need less weeding and watering and have fewer diseases if you mulch. Lay down 1 to 2 inches of organic mulch, such as wood chips, pine needles, grass clippings or other biodegradable material.
Step 7
Deadhead. This simply means trimming spent roses off the shrub to encourage it to produce more. While some roses bloom only in one big flush in June, others are bred to keep producing off and on all season long.
Step 8
Spray. If your rose becomes diseased or has an insect infestation, you may want to deal with it by spraying. (However, first try simply trimming off the diseased portion of the plant and giving the plant a good strong blast from a hose.) If you choose to spray, first identify the problem by trimming off the diseased part and taking it to a reliable garden center, where the staff can prescribe the correct pesticide or herbicide.
Fall and Winter Rose Care
Step 9
Stop fertilizing roses in early autumn, at least one month before your region's first annual frost date. Fertilizing too long into autumn encourages roses to produce tender new growth that will get nipped by cold.
Step 10
Protect roses as needed in late autumn, after your region's first hard freeze. In regions where temperatures don't fall below 20 degrees F (USDA zone 9 and warmer), no additional winter protection is needed. In cooler regions where temperatures don't fall below 10 degrees below zero (zones 6 to 8), a simple mounding of several inches of soil over the base of the rose should suffice. In cold-winter regions where temperatures get colder than 10 degrees below zero (zone 5 and colder), mound to about a foot about a month after your region's last average frost date; additionally, two weeks later, the entire plant should be wrapped in burlap to protect the upper parts.
Spring Rose Care
Step 1
Prune roses in early spring once the rose starts to show signs of new growth, usually in the form of tiny red buds swelling. These buds will become new branches.
Step 2
Cut out any obviously dead or damaged branches first. Then cut out all but four or five healthy stems, each ideally about as thick as a pencil.
Step 3
Cut the rose bush back by 1/3 to 1/2, depending on how tall you want it to be. Make these cuts right above an outward facing bud - that is, a red bud that's on the outside of the rose bush. This directs the bud to grow up and out, leaving the center of the rose bush open for a prettier shape and better air circulation.
Step 4
Fertilize roses regularly during the growing season. Roses are hungry plants, demanding lots of nutrients for best growth and flowering. Each rose grower has his or her own favorite method. One of the easiest is to buy a slow-release granular rose food and work it into the soil so it can feed the plant all season long. Otherwise, you'll want to fertilize the rose with a liquid fertilizer every three to four weeks during the growing season (stop in early autumn) or according to package directions.
Step 5
Water diligently. Roses need a steady source of water during the growing season, about 1 inch a week from rain or watering. In arid regions of the country, if you have several roses, consider installing a do-it-yourself drip irrigation system.
Summer Rose Care
Step 6
Mulch. Roses need less weeding and watering and have fewer diseases if you mulch. Lay down 1 to 2 inches of organic mulch, such as wood chips, pine needles, grass clippings or other biodegradable material.
Step 7
Deadhead. This simply means trimming spent roses off the shrub to encourage it to produce more. While some roses bloom only in one big flush in June, others are bred to keep producing off and on all season long.
Step 8
Spray. If your rose becomes diseased or has an insect infestation, you may want to deal with it by spraying. (However, first try simply trimming off the diseased portion of the plant and giving the plant a good strong blast from a hose.) If you choose to spray, first identify the problem by trimming off the diseased part and taking it to a reliable garden center, where the staff can prescribe the correct pesticide or herbicide.
Fall and Winter Rose Care
Step 9
Stop fertilizing roses in early autumn, at least one month before your region's first annual frost date. Fertilizing too long into autumn encourages roses to produce tender new growth that will get nipped by cold.
Step 10
Protect roses as needed in late autumn, after your region's first hard freeze. In regions where temperatures don't fall below 20 degrees F (USDA zone 9 and warmer), no additional winter protection is needed. In cooler regions where temperatures don't fall below 10 degrees below zero (zones 6 to 8), a simple mounding of several inches of soil over the base of the rose should suffice. In cold-winter regions where temperatures get colder than 10 degrees below zero (zone 5 and colder), mound to about a foot about a month after your region's last average frost date; additionally, two weeks later, the entire plant should be wrapped in burlap to protect the upper parts.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Bananas continue their usefulness even after you've eaten the fruit. The inedible peels provide potassium and magnesium to nutrient-hungry plants, including rose bushes (Rosa spp), which thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 11. Some gardeners also swear by banana peels' ability to deter aphids -- the bane of rose growers everywhere. If you're a banana lover, you have a few options for using the castoff peels to nourish and protect roses.
A Banana a Day
Whole peels deteriorate more slowly than strips or chunks, robbing your roses of the more immediate benefits of the decomposing plant material. Once you've peeled your banana, chop the peels into strips or chunks. This is also a good time to get rid of the blackened whole bananas you never got around to -- just chop the whole fruit, flesh and all, and mix it with the processed peels. If you don't eat bananas frequently, save the chopped pieces in the freezer, either in a jar or a tightly sealed bag.
Daily Dose
To feed individual rose bushes, gently remove about 1 inch of soil in a circular trench around the bush's base. After scattering the chopped peels in this circular trench, backfill it with soil and replace mulch, if necessary. If you have a rose hedge, work your way along the row over the course of the growing season. Dig a short shallow trench in front of a new section of the rose hedge each day, backfilling with soil and mulch as you go. When rotting fruit makes up a portion of the daily dose, digging the trench more deeply will deter foraging pests, as will mixing in wood ashes to neutralize the scent.
Tropical Mulch
If you have the room to spread out peels to dry them, you can make a material that mulches and nourishes your rose bushes at the same time. Spreading the peels flat on screens in a dark, dry room is the least labor-intensive method -- especially if you are consuming bananas during the roses' long dormant season -- but you can also dry the peels in a dehydrator or in a low oven. Once you've accumulated several pounds of dried peels, grind them in a food processor. Scatter this mulch around the rose bushes in the spring.
Piling On
Mixing chopped banana peels into the compost pile is another option for feeding rose bushes. This method is especially helpful if you either don't wish to bury the bananas around the rose bushes every few days or don't eat enough of the fruit to make feeding individual roses worth the while. Instead, mix the peels in with your other fruit and vegetable peelings, and toss them on the compost pile, where the peels will add their nutrients as they break down. It's best to either bury the fresh food scraps a few feet into the compost pile or mix them with wood ashes before tossing them on the pile.
A Banana a Day
Whole peels deteriorate more slowly than strips or chunks, robbing your roses of the more immediate benefits of the decomposing plant material. Once you've peeled your banana, chop the peels into strips or chunks. This is also a good time to get rid of the blackened whole bananas you never got around to -- just chop the whole fruit, flesh and all, and mix it with the processed peels. If you don't eat bananas frequently, save the chopped pieces in the freezer, either in a jar or a tightly sealed bag.
Daily Dose
To feed individual rose bushes, gently remove about 1 inch of soil in a circular trench around the bush's base. After scattering the chopped peels in this circular trench, backfill it with soil and replace mulch, if necessary. If you have a rose hedge, work your way along the row over the course of the growing season. Dig a short shallow trench in front of a new section of the rose hedge each day, backfilling with soil and mulch as you go. When rotting fruit makes up a portion of the daily dose, digging the trench more deeply will deter foraging pests, as will mixing in wood ashes to neutralize the scent.
Tropical Mulch
If you have the room to spread out peels to dry them, you can make a material that mulches and nourishes your rose bushes at the same time. Spreading the peels flat on screens in a dark, dry room is the least labor-intensive method -- especially if you are consuming bananas during the roses' long dormant season -- but you can also dry the peels in a dehydrator or in a low oven. Once you've accumulated several pounds of dried peels, grind them in a food processor. Scatter this mulch around the rose bushes in the spring.
Piling On
Mixing chopped banana peels into the compost pile is another option for feeding rose bushes. This method is especially helpful if you either don't wish to bury the bananas around the rose bushes every few days or don't eat enough of the fruit to make feeding individual roses worth the while. Instead, mix the peels in with your other fruit and vegetable peelings, and toss them on the compost pile, where the peels will add their nutrients as they break down. It's best to either bury the fresh food scraps a few feet into the compost pile or mix them with wood ashes before tossing them on the pile.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Chameleon plants (Houittuynia) are a colorful ground cover in areas that might otherwise remain bare because of poor or wet soil. Chameleon ground cover is adaptable to many areas and can be useful in the landscape. However, chameleon plant care includes containing the plant and keeping its invasive tendencies within bounds. Chameleon ground cover, of the Lizard’s-Tail family, is attractive. Colors of red, bronze, cream, and yellow border green leaves when growing chameleon plants. Chameleon ground cover is an herbaceous perennial, dying back in winter. In June and July, inconspicuous flowers bloom, but are most often not noticeable.
Containing Growing Chameleon Plants
If you’re interested in having the chameleon plant growing in your yard, pond or bog, look at ways to minimize chameleon plant care by planting in containers and contained areas. Learning how to grow chameleon ground cover is not hard, once you’ve learned how to keep it under control. Growing chameleon plants need little encouragement. They can quickly cover an area. Just as easily, chameleon ground cover can get out of hand. Plant rhizomes into a large container and sink it into a hole in the ground in the area where coverage is desired. Get the chameleon plant growing near a buried fence or sidewalk that may limit growth and spread. Sprigs growing out of the designated area should be removed at the rhizome.
How to Grow Chameleon Ground Cover
Plant chameleon ground cover in a full sun or a partially shaded area. Best color develops in a sunny spot, but the plant remains vigorous in a shaded area. Have the chameleon plant growing in large areas where it can be mowed, if desired. You don’t want this plant growing near landscaped areas that it might invade. Avoid growing it near the porch or deck, as growing chameleon plants emit a fragrance similar to diesel fuel. Chameleon ground cover is useful around ponds and boggy areas where color is needed in wet soil. Pot chameleon plants as you would any other water plant and get them going for sensational interest in the water garden or bog.
Now that you’ve learned how to grow chameleon ground cover and it’s pros and cons, plant it responsibly, so that it doesn’t invade forests and destroy native plants. Take advantage of this useful ground cover while keeping it under control.
Containing Growing Chameleon Plants
If you’re interested in having the chameleon plant growing in your yard, pond or bog, look at ways to minimize chameleon plant care by planting in containers and contained areas. Learning how to grow chameleon ground cover is not hard, once you’ve learned how to keep it under control. Growing chameleon plants need little encouragement. They can quickly cover an area. Just as easily, chameleon ground cover can get out of hand. Plant rhizomes into a large container and sink it into a hole in the ground in the area where coverage is desired. Get the chameleon plant growing near a buried fence or sidewalk that may limit growth and spread. Sprigs growing out of the designated area should be removed at the rhizome.
How to Grow Chameleon Ground Cover
Plant chameleon ground cover in a full sun or a partially shaded area. Best color develops in a sunny spot, but the plant remains vigorous in a shaded area. Have the chameleon plant growing in large areas where it can be mowed, if desired. You don’t want this plant growing near landscaped areas that it might invade. Avoid growing it near the porch or deck, as growing chameleon plants emit a fragrance similar to diesel fuel. Chameleon ground cover is useful around ponds and boggy areas where color is needed in wet soil. Pot chameleon plants as you would any other water plant and get them going for sensational interest in the water garden or bog.
Now that you’ve learned how to grow chameleon ground cover and it’s pros and cons, plant it responsibly, so that it doesn’t invade forests and destroy native plants. Take advantage of this useful ground cover while keeping it under control.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
We tend to think of moss as small airy green plants that decorate rocks, trees, ground spaces and even our houses. Spike moss plants, or club moss, are not true mosses but very basic vascular plants. They are related to the family of ferns and closely aligned with fern ecosystems. Can you grow spike moss? You certainly can, and it makes an excellent ground cover but needs consistent moisture to remain green.
About Spike Moss Plants
Spike moss has a similar structure to ferns. The relationship might lead one to call the plants spike moss fern, although that is technically not correct either. These common plants are part of many native flora situations and are nursery plants for some varieties of wild seed, which grow up through them. Selaginella spike moss are spore producing plants, just like ferns, and can produce large mats of deep feathery green foliage.
The Selaginella genus is an ancient plant group. They formed around the time ferns were evolving but took a u-turn somewhere in the evolutionary development. The moss’s leaves cluster into groups called strobili, with spore bearing structures on the terminal ends. There are over 700 species of Selaginella that span the globe. Some are moisture lovers while others are perfectly suited to arid zones.
Many of the spike moss form into a dark, dry little ball when moisture is scarce. In fact, periods of dryness cause the moss to desiccate and go dormant. This is called poikilohydry. The plant bounces back to green life when it gets water, leading to the name resurrection plant. This group of fern and club mosses are called Polypoiophyta.
Spike Moss Care
Although closely aligned with ferns, spike moss plants are more nearly related to ancient plants such as quillworts and lycopods. There are many varieties available for the gardener, from Ruby Red spike moss fern to ‘Aurea’ Golden spike moss. Other varieties include:
Rock moss
Lesser club moss
Pin cushion
Lacy spike moss
They make excellent terrarium plants or even as accents to beds, borders, rock gardens and containers. Plants spread from trailing stems and one plant can cover up to 3 feet over a couple of seasons. Where else can you grow spike moss? Over time the plant will adhere to most vertical surfaces, such as fences and boulders.
These plants are remarkably durable. In most cases, a pressure washer can’t even disturb them. They are hardy to USDA zone 11 and down to cool temperatures of 30 degrees Fahrenheit or -1 degrees Celsius. These mosses require rich, well-drained soil in part to full shade. Plant them in a mixture of peat moss and good garden soil to enhance moisture retention. Another useful fact about spike moss is its ease of division for propagation. Cut apart sections and replant them for a carpet of soft green foliage.
About Spike Moss Plants
Spike moss has a similar structure to ferns. The relationship might lead one to call the plants spike moss fern, although that is technically not correct either. These common plants are part of many native flora situations and are nursery plants for some varieties of wild seed, which grow up through them. Selaginella spike moss are spore producing plants, just like ferns, and can produce large mats of deep feathery green foliage.
The Selaginella genus is an ancient plant group. They formed around the time ferns were evolving but took a u-turn somewhere in the evolutionary development. The moss’s leaves cluster into groups called strobili, with spore bearing structures on the terminal ends. There are over 700 species of Selaginella that span the globe. Some are moisture lovers while others are perfectly suited to arid zones.
Many of the spike moss form into a dark, dry little ball when moisture is scarce. In fact, periods of dryness cause the moss to desiccate and go dormant. This is called poikilohydry. The plant bounces back to green life when it gets water, leading to the name resurrection plant. This group of fern and club mosses are called Polypoiophyta.
Spike Moss Care
Although closely aligned with ferns, spike moss plants are more nearly related to ancient plants such as quillworts and lycopods. There are many varieties available for the gardener, from Ruby Red spike moss fern to ‘Aurea’ Golden spike moss. Other varieties include:
Rock moss
Lesser club moss
Pin cushion
Lacy spike moss
They make excellent terrarium plants or even as accents to beds, borders, rock gardens and containers. Plants spread from trailing stems and one plant can cover up to 3 feet over a couple of seasons. Where else can you grow spike moss? Over time the plant will adhere to most vertical surfaces, such as fences and boulders.
These plants are remarkably durable. In most cases, a pressure washer can’t even disturb them. They are hardy to USDA zone 11 and down to cool temperatures of 30 degrees Fahrenheit or -1 degrees Celsius. These mosses require rich, well-drained soil in part to full shade. Plant them in a mixture of peat moss and good garden soil to enhance moisture retention. Another useful fact about spike moss is its ease of division for propagation. Cut apart sections and replant them for a carpet of soft green foliage.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Saxifraga is a genus of plants found almost everywhere on earth. Typically, the plants form mounds or creeping mats and produce tiny flowers. There are approximately 480 species of the plant, and plant enthusiasts and breeders are introducing more each year. A very common and easy-to-grow variety is rockfoil. Information on how to grow rockfoil plants will allow you an easy entry into this diverse and attractive group of plants.
Rockfoil Saxifraga Information
A commonplace form of Saxifraga is mossy rockfoil. There are many types of rockfoil, but mossy rockfoil is readily available in nurseries and garden centers. The mossy varieties are in the section of Saxifraga called hypnoides. The plant is an excellent ground cover, forming a thick tenacious carpet over rocks and under trees.
Rockfoil produces its thickest and most lush foliage in spring. The bright green crinkly leaves pack tightly together and carpet rocks, pavers and lightly shaded nooks. In spring, tiny cupped flowers appear on slender stalks held above the body of the plant. The wiry stalks are tinged pink to purple and support blooms of salmon, pink, purple, white and other hues. The rockfoil flowers last into the early part of summer.
Once the flowers die back, the plant is exposed to drying air and sun without their shading protection. This often causes the plant to die in the center. Fill in the center with a light dusting of sandy grit to help the plant hold moisture and prevent core mortality. This is important rockfoil Saxifraga information to preserve the beauty of your plant. The perennial plant needs moist shade and is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 7 in temperate regions. Growing rockfoil requires cool sites which mimic its alpine native ranges.
How to Grow Rockfoil Plants
Mossy rockfoil has no special needs, provided you give it a location with some shelter from wind and hot sun. The plants require moist soil, especially in spring when they are growing the most. You can plant this Saxifraga from seed but for faster plants, divide a mature clump. Seeds require cold stratification for germination and can take two to three years to bloom. Growing rockfoil from divisions helps prevent the center die out and gives you more of these alpine plants for your garden. This species needs a moist rich loam for best performance. Mix in a little compost with existing soil at planting time.
Saxifraga Plant Care
Mulch around the plants to conserve moisture and help prevent weeds from growing up into the center of the plant as it spreads. Water twice per week in summer. In colder zones, mulch over the plant lightly to protect the roots from freezes, but pull away the mulch in early spring. This allows the new growth to burst out without having to push through the layer of mulch. Mossy rockfoil needs no pruning and has no staking or manual cultivation needs. As with any plant, watch for pests and disease with Saxifraga care and maintenance. It is prey to several species of insect and prone to rots and rust. Combat these by avoiding overhead watering when the plant can’t dry out quickly and with a fungicide or baking soda spray.
Rockfoil Saxifraga Information
A commonplace form of Saxifraga is mossy rockfoil. There are many types of rockfoil, but mossy rockfoil is readily available in nurseries and garden centers. The mossy varieties are in the section of Saxifraga called hypnoides. The plant is an excellent ground cover, forming a thick tenacious carpet over rocks and under trees.
Rockfoil produces its thickest and most lush foliage in spring. The bright green crinkly leaves pack tightly together and carpet rocks, pavers and lightly shaded nooks. In spring, tiny cupped flowers appear on slender stalks held above the body of the plant. The wiry stalks are tinged pink to purple and support blooms of salmon, pink, purple, white and other hues. The rockfoil flowers last into the early part of summer.
Once the flowers die back, the plant is exposed to drying air and sun without their shading protection. This often causes the plant to die in the center. Fill in the center with a light dusting of sandy grit to help the plant hold moisture and prevent core mortality. This is important rockfoil Saxifraga information to preserve the beauty of your plant. The perennial plant needs moist shade and is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 7 in temperate regions. Growing rockfoil requires cool sites which mimic its alpine native ranges.
How to Grow Rockfoil Plants
Mossy rockfoil has no special needs, provided you give it a location with some shelter from wind and hot sun. The plants require moist soil, especially in spring when they are growing the most. You can plant this Saxifraga from seed but for faster plants, divide a mature clump. Seeds require cold stratification for germination and can take two to three years to bloom. Growing rockfoil from divisions helps prevent the center die out and gives you more of these alpine plants for your garden. This species needs a moist rich loam for best performance. Mix in a little compost with existing soil at planting time.
Saxifraga Plant Care
Mulch around the plants to conserve moisture and help prevent weeds from growing up into the center of the plant as it spreads. Water twice per week in summer. In colder zones, mulch over the plant lightly to protect the roots from freezes, but pull away the mulch in early spring. This allows the new growth to burst out without having to push through the layer of mulch. Mossy rockfoil needs no pruning and has no staking or manual cultivation needs. As with any plant, watch for pests and disease with Saxifraga care and maintenance. It is prey to several species of insect and prone to rots and rust. Combat these by avoiding overhead watering when the plant can’t dry out quickly and with a fungicide or baking soda spray.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Red clover is a common soil amendment and green manure. The plant fixes nitrogen in soil, enhancing fertility for better growth in other plants. If you are thinking about using red clover, why not try ornamental clover plants. Red feather foxtail clover has spectacular tufted flowers that are attractive and useful. Red feather clover not only adds nitrogen to soil but has other benefits after providing a colorful floral display.
What is Red Feather Clover?
Growing red clover to enhance soil is a time honored tradition amongst organic gardeners and traditional farmers. Trifolium rubens is an ornamental form of white clover, valued for its nutrient benefits and its lovely blooms. Ornamental red clover performs the same functions as standard red clovers while enhancing the natural landscape. Red feather foxtail clover is easy to grow from seed and needs little care or maintenance.
This clover provides the most arresting floral display of all the species and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Bees love the flowers too! The plant grows 15 inches tall and has fuzzy purple to red flowers from early to late summer. It is an herbaceous perennial with characteristic clover leaves and a spreading stolen system that allows the plant to clamber over and cover large spaces.
Red clover is even edible and can be used as a tea, animal browse, or sprouted for salads. If you are growing red clover for its edible or medicinal properties, make sure no chemicals are used in the area. Other benefits of growing red clover include its ability to break up soil and prevent erosion.
How to Grow Ornamental Clover Plants
Clover thrives in moist or dry conditions but drainage should be good. Slightly acidic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5 are preferred. You can plant the clover in full sun or partial shade, although full sun provides the best yields. Sow the tiny seeds in a well-prepared bed from January to April or August to November. Plant seeds at ¼ inch deep or even scatter them on the surface of the soil and lightly dust them with earth. Keep them moderately moist until germination, which is generally 14 to 21 days. You may also choose to start plants indoors in flats. Transplant them outside when there are 6 true leaves and soil has warmed. Water established plants regularly. Choose your site carefully, as red clover has a tendency to spread and become invasive.
Red Clover Care
You may choose to cut back seed heads to prevent over-sowing of seeds and invasion of other beds. Otherwise, you can opt to till late summer planted clover in spring to increase soil fertility. Plants sown in late winter to early summer may be allowed to persist as a ground cover and cover crop to combat weeds and enhance soil properties. If you choose to harvest the plant for consumption, take fresh flowers and leaves at any time. Ornamental red clover can be harvested up to three times in the season. You may dry them or use them fresh.
Sprouted clover seeds add a unique texture and flavor to salads and sandwiches. Soak seeds in warm water for 6 hours and then put them in a shallow bowl or seed sprouter. Place the container in a dark location for 3 days, rinsing and draining the seed twice per day. By the fourth day, you should seed sprouts and it is time to move them to a light location to develop green color and maximum nutrients. Use them as you would any sprout.
What is Red Feather Clover?
Growing red clover to enhance soil is a time honored tradition amongst organic gardeners and traditional farmers. Trifolium rubens is an ornamental form of white clover, valued for its nutrient benefits and its lovely blooms. Ornamental red clover performs the same functions as standard red clovers while enhancing the natural landscape. Red feather foxtail clover is easy to grow from seed and needs little care or maintenance.
This clover provides the most arresting floral display of all the species and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Bees love the flowers too! The plant grows 15 inches tall and has fuzzy purple to red flowers from early to late summer. It is an herbaceous perennial with characteristic clover leaves and a spreading stolen system that allows the plant to clamber over and cover large spaces.
Red clover is even edible and can be used as a tea, animal browse, or sprouted for salads. If you are growing red clover for its edible or medicinal properties, make sure no chemicals are used in the area. Other benefits of growing red clover include its ability to break up soil and prevent erosion.
How to Grow Ornamental Clover Plants
Clover thrives in moist or dry conditions but drainage should be good. Slightly acidic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5 are preferred. You can plant the clover in full sun or partial shade, although full sun provides the best yields. Sow the tiny seeds in a well-prepared bed from January to April or August to November. Plant seeds at ¼ inch deep or even scatter them on the surface of the soil and lightly dust them with earth. Keep them moderately moist until germination, which is generally 14 to 21 days. You may also choose to start plants indoors in flats. Transplant them outside when there are 6 true leaves and soil has warmed. Water established plants regularly. Choose your site carefully, as red clover has a tendency to spread and become invasive.
Red Clover Care
You may choose to cut back seed heads to prevent over-sowing of seeds and invasion of other beds. Otherwise, you can opt to till late summer planted clover in spring to increase soil fertility. Plants sown in late winter to early summer may be allowed to persist as a ground cover and cover crop to combat weeds and enhance soil properties. If you choose to harvest the plant for consumption, take fresh flowers and leaves at any time. Ornamental red clover can be harvested up to three times in the season. You may dry them or use them fresh.
Sprouted clover seeds add a unique texture and flavor to salads and sandwiches. Soak seeds in warm water for 6 hours and then put them in a shallow bowl or seed sprouter. Place the container in a dark location for 3 days, rinsing and draining the seed twice per day. By the fourth day, you should seed sprouts and it is time to move them to a light location to develop green color and maximum nutrients. Use them as you would any sprout.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
As gardeners, some of us grow plants for food, some because they are beautiful and aromatic, and some for the wild critters to feast on, but all of us are interested in a new plant. Unique specimens that will have the neighbors talking include Scorpiurus muricatus plants, also known as prickly scorpion’s tail plant. What is prickly scorpion’s tail and is Scorpiurus muricatus edible? Let’s learn more about caring for prickly scorpion’s tail.
What is Prickly Scorpion’s Tail?
Scorpiurus muricatus is an unusual annual legume native to southern Europe. Listed by Vilmorin in the 1800’s, the plant has unique pods that twist and roll in upon themselves. The name “prickly scorpion’s tail” was no doubt given due to the resemblance but its other common name of “prickly caterpillar” is far more apt in my opinion. The pods do indeed look just like fuzzy, green caterpillars. Scorpiurus muricatus plants are most often used as a ground cover. They have lovely tiny yellow flowers that are hermaphroditic, having both male and female organs. This herbaceous annual blooms continuously from mid-summer. A member of the Papilionacea family, the plants attain a height of between 6-12 inches.
Caring for Prickly Scorpion’s Tail
Seeds can be direct sown outdoors after all danger of frost has passed or inside for a jump start. Sow seed ¼ inch beneath the soil 3-4 weeks before the last frost if sowing indoors. Germination time for prickly scorpion’s tail is 10-14 days. Choose a site in sun to partial shade. The plant is not too picky regarding its soil and can be sown in sandy, loamy or even heavy clay as long as the soil is well draining. Soil can be acidic, neutral to alkaline. When caring for prickly scorpion’s tail, keep the plants moist to a little dry, not sodden.
Oh, and the burning question. Is Scorpiurus muricatus edible? Yes, but it has an uninteresting flavor and is a bit prickly. It would make a great icebreaker at your next party tossed casually in amongst the green salad though! This plant is fun and a historical oddity. Allow the pods to dry on the plant and then break them open to collect the seeds. Then pass them on to a friend so he/she can gross out the kids with caterpillars in their food.
What is Prickly Scorpion’s Tail?
Scorpiurus muricatus is an unusual annual legume native to southern Europe. Listed by Vilmorin in the 1800’s, the plant has unique pods that twist and roll in upon themselves. The name “prickly scorpion’s tail” was no doubt given due to the resemblance but its other common name of “prickly caterpillar” is far more apt in my opinion. The pods do indeed look just like fuzzy, green caterpillars. Scorpiurus muricatus plants are most often used as a ground cover. They have lovely tiny yellow flowers that are hermaphroditic, having both male and female organs. This herbaceous annual blooms continuously from mid-summer. A member of the Papilionacea family, the plants attain a height of between 6-12 inches.
Caring for Prickly Scorpion’s Tail
Seeds can be direct sown outdoors after all danger of frost has passed or inside for a jump start. Sow seed ¼ inch beneath the soil 3-4 weeks before the last frost if sowing indoors. Germination time for prickly scorpion’s tail is 10-14 days. Choose a site in sun to partial shade. The plant is not too picky regarding its soil and can be sown in sandy, loamy or even heavy clay as long as the soil is well draining. Soil can be acidic, neutral to alkaline. When caring for prickly scorpion’s tail, keep the plants moist to a little dry, not sodden.
Oh, and the burning question. Is Scorpiurus muricatus edible? Yes, but it has an uninteresting flavor and is a bit prickly. It would make a great icebreaker at your next party tossed casually in amongst the green salad though! This plant is fun and a historical oddity. Allow the pods to dry on the plant and then break them open to collect the seeds. Then pass them on to a friend so he/she can gross out the kids with caterpillars in their food.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Periwinkle, also known as Vinca or creeping myrtle, is one of the easiest to grow ground covers or trailing plants. However, its tendency to root at the internodes where stems touch the ground can make it an invasive competitor to other plants. Getting rid of periwinkle takes some serious elbow grease unless you wish to resort to chemicals. There are at least two useful periwinkle control methods in the following text.
Periwinkle Control Methods
Periwinkle is a very popular ground cover due to its glossy evergreen leaves and bright starry blue flowers. The plants establish and grow quickly, with remarkable tolerance to poor soils, unfavorable weather conditions and even mechanical damage. Mowing or string trimming the plant to keep it in a manageable condition works well in containing the tangled stems. But be cautious with the trimmings, as periwinkle will produce new plants with just a tiny bit of stem to ground contact, even once severed from the parent plant. This creates an issue, and many gardeners evince the desire to completely remove periwinkle ground cover.
It may seem sensible to just pull the plants, but any little bit of plant material or the presence of underground stems will send Vinca growing thickly again in no time. The waxy leaves are quite resistant to chemical herbicides as the cuticle repels any topical application. Control of periwinkle must remove all of the roots and stems to prevent recurrence. Some plants can be grazed out, but periwinkle is not edible to grazing animals due to a milky latex sap. Manual removal is the least toxic method but the roots may grow several feet in the ground so deep digging is necessary.
Control of Periwinkle with Herbicides
Several states classify periwinkle as an invasive weed. For periwinkle weed control in large areas where digging is not practical, use an oil based herbicide. The cuticle on the leaves repels water based applications, but the oil base will allow the chemicals to adhere to the leave and gradually travel into the vascular system of the plant. Triclopyr mixed with mineral oil is effective but applications will need to be repeated as straggler plants crop up. Getting rid of periwinkle generally takes several seasons no matter what method you choose because of its hardiness and tenacity. Spray in winter when all other nearby vegetation has died back.
Remove Periwinkle Ground Cover Manually
Alright, it sounds like a pain in the-you-know-what, but manual removal really works best. Dig deep into the soil, starting at the edge of the problem area. Remember that periwinkle weed control relies upon complete removal of those roots, which may be several feet into the soil. Make a two-foot trench around the area and loosen the first section of roots. Pull as you dig further into the bed, loosening the soil as you go. The next season, if you see any small plants forming, immediately dig them out.
In this way you will be rid of the ground cover permanently in a couple of years and other plants can take over the area. It won’t be easy, but it is a non-toxic removal that is effective.
Periwinkle Control Methods
Periwinkle is a very popular ground cover due to its glossy evergreen leaves and bright starry blue flowers. The plants establish and grow quickly, with remarkable tolerance to poor soils, unfavorable weather conditions and even mechanical damage. Mowing or string trimming the plant to keep it in a manageable condition works well in containing the tangled stems. But be cautious with the trimmings, as periwinkle will produce new plants with just a tiny bit of stem to ground contact, even once severed from the parent plant. This creates an issue, and many gardeners evince the desire to completely remove periwinkle ground cover.
It may seem sensible to just pull the plants, but any little bit of plant material or the presence of underground stems will send Vinca growing thickly again in no time. The waxy leaves are quite resistant to chemical herbicides as the cuticle repels any topical application. Control of periwinkle must remove all of the roots and stems to prevent recurrence. Some plants can be grazed out, but periwinkle is not edible to grazing animals due to a milky latex sap. Manual removal is the least toxic method but the roots may grow several feet in the ground so deep digging is necessary.
Control of Periwinkle with Herbicides
Several states classify periwinkle as an invasive weed. For periwinkle weed control in large areas where digging is not practical, use an oil based herbicide. The cuticle on the leaves repels water based applications, but the oil base will allow the chemicals to adhere to the leave and gradually travel into the vascular system of the plant. Triclopyr mixed with mineral oil is effective but applications will need to be repeated as straggler plants crop up. Getting rid of periwinkle generally takes several seasons no matter what method you choose because of its hardiness and tenacity. Spray in winter when all other nearby vegetation has died back.
Remove Periwinkle Ground Cover Manually
Alright, it sounds like a pain in the-you-know-what, but manual removal really works best. Dig deep into the soil, starting at the edge of the problem area. Remember that periwinkle weed control relies upon complete removal of those roots, which may be several feet into the soil. Make a two-foot trench around the area and loosen the first section of roots. Pull as you dig further into the bed, loosening the soil as you go. The next season, if you see any small plants forming, immediately dig them out.
In this way you will be rid of the ground cover permanently in a couple of years and other plants can take over the area. It won’t be easy, but it is a non-toxic removal that is effective.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Deadheading is a type of pruning where faded blooms are removed from a plant. Plants, particularly roses, are deadheaded to extend the amount of time the plant produces flowers, keep the plant compact and tidy, and stop the plant from producing seeds. Knockout roses are deadheaded to keep the plant looking tidy as this rose produces blooms from mid to late spring through fall even without deadheading. Knockout roses produce flushes of blooms every five to six weeks. Removing faded blooms can decrease the time between bloom production and increase the size and quality of the flowers.
Disinfect Shears
Step 1
Make a disinfecting/sanitizing solution using bleach and water. Use a 1:10 dilution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Mixing the solution in a graded (has units of measurement on the side) bucket makes the solution portable as well as easier to mix. Sterilize your pruning shears in the 1:10 bleach solution between plants. Sterilize your pruning shears between cuts if you have a rose with a fungal or bacterial disease. Dip the cutting blades in the 1:10 solution. Open and close the blades several times while submerged. The blades do not have to dry before you start pruning.
Step 2
Prune faded and damaged blooms 1/2 to 1 inch above the nearest strong buds (the place where leaves and branches emerge) or branches.
Step 3
Avoid scratches and scrapes caused by rose thorns by wearing rose gloves or heavy-duty leather work gloves.
Step 4
Make pruning cuts on a 45-degree angle. The cut should angle away (meaning the short end should be closest to the bud or branch) from the bud or branch.
Step 5
Either burn deadheaded blooms or place in a trash bag and set out for trash pickup.
Disinfect Shears
Step 1
Make a disinfecting/sanitizing solution using bleach and water. Use a 1:10 dilution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Mixing the solution in a graded (has units of measurement on the side) bucket makes the solution portable as well as easier to mix. Sterilize your pruning shears in the 1:10 bleach solution between plants. Sterilize your pruning shears between cuts if you have a rose with a fungal or bacterial disease. Dip the cutting blades in the 1:10 solution. Open and close the blades several times while submerged. The blades do not have to dry before you start pruning.
Step 2
Prune faded and damaged blooms 1/2 to 1 inch above the nearest strong buds (the place where leaves and branches emerge) or branches.
Step 3
Avoid scratches and scrapes caused by rose thorns by wearing rose gloves or heavy-duty leather work gloves.
Step 4
Make pruning cuts on a 45-degree angle. The cut should angle away (meaning the short end should be closest to the bud or branch) from the bud or branch.
Step 5
Either burn deadheaded blooms or place in a trash bag and set out for trash pickup.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Irish moss plants are versatile little plants that can add a touch of elegance to your landscape. Growing Irish moss fills a range of garden needs. It is simple to learn how to grow Irish moss. You’ll find growing Irish moss can put the finishing touch on many areas of the garden and beyond. Keep reading to learn more about the care of Irish moss in your garden.
Irish Moss Growing Zones and Info
A member of the Caryophyllaceae family, Irish moss (Sagina subulata), which is not a moss at all, is also called Corsican pearlwort or Scot’s moss. Irish moss plants perform in a manner similar to moss, however. They do need some light to maintain the most amazing of emerald green colors found in its foliage. This herbaceous perennial (evergreen in warmer zones) turns green as temperatures warm. Charming little white blooms appear sporadically throughout the growing season. For a similar plant with a more yellow tint, try Scotch moss, Sagina subulata Aurea.
Irish moss growing zones include USDA plant hardiness zones 4-10, depending on the variety you choose. Most areas of the United States can use Irish moss plants in some manner. Not a heat loving specimen, use Irish moss plants in a sunny to partially shaded area. In warmer Irish moss growing zones, plant where it is protected from the scorching sun. Irish moss may turn brown during summer’s hottest days, but greens up again as temperatures fall in autumn.
How to Grow Irish Moss
Plant Irish moss in spring, when danger of frost is passed. Space plants 12 inches apart when first planting. Soil should be fertile and have good drainage. Irish moss plants need regular watering, but should not have soggy roots.
Care for Irish moss is simple and includes cutting out browning patches in older mats. Growing Irish moss reaches only 1 to 2 inches in height and when used as a lawn replacement, does not need mowing. If you don’t wish for such a drastic makeover, consider the possibilities of growing Irish moss as a ground cover. Use the grass-like mats to spread around pavers or to edge a rock garden. Growing Irish moss is also attractive in containers. Uses of Irish moss are limited only by your imagination.
Irish Moss Growing Zones and Info
A member of the Caryophyllaceae family, Irish moss (Sagina subulata), which is not a moss at all, is also called Corsican pearlwort or Scot’s moss. Irish moss plants perform in a manner similar to moss, however. They do need some light to maintain the most amazing of emerald green colors found in its foliage. This herbaceous perennial (evergreen in warmer zones) turns green as temperatures warm. Charming little white blooms appear sporadically throughout the growing season. For a similar plant with a more yellow tint, try Scotch moss, Sagina subulata Aurea.
Irish moss growing zones include USDA plant hardiness zones 4-10, depending on the variety you choose. Most areas of the United States can use Irish moss plants in some manner. Not a heat loving specimen, use Irish moss plants in a sunny to partially shaded area. In warmer Irish moss growing zones, plant where it is protected from the scorching sun. Irish moss may turn brown during summer’s hottest days, but greens up again as temperatures fall in autumn.
How to Grow Irish Moss
Plant Irish moss in spring, when danger of frost is passed. Space plants 12 inches apart when first planting. Soil should be fertile and have good drainage. Irish moss plants need regular watering, but should not have soggy roots.
Care for Irish moss is simple and includes cutting out browning patches in older mats. Growing Irish moss reaches only 1 to 2 inches in height and when used as a lawn replacement, does not need mowing. If you don’t wish for such a drastic makeover, consider the possibilities of growing Irish moss as a ground cover. Use the grass-like mats to spread around pavers or to edge a rock garden. Growing Irish moss is also attractive in containers. Uses of Irish moss are limited only by your imagination.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Native to the eastern United States, golden star plants (Chrysogonum virginianum) produce an abundance of bright, yellow-gold flowers from spring until autumn. They are ideal for an area that needs a continuous, uniform ground cover, but also look good in borders and as a low edging plant. The plants require very little care, and growing golden stars on steep banks solves mowing and maintenance problems. The plants develop tight, green foliage topped with bright gold flowers, giving rise to the common name green-and-gold.
Growing Golden Stars
Growing golden stars is easy. Golden star plants need at least half a day of sunlight. When grown in less light, the foliage loosens up and flowers are smaller and fewer in number.
The plants tolerate almost any type of soil, but do best when the soil is amended with plenty of organic matter. Good drainage is also essential. Space the plants 8 to 18 inches apart and allow them to spread and fill in the area.
Golden star plants make an excellent ground cover. One of the best varieties for this purpose is C. virginianum var. austral, which is sold under the cultivar name ‘Eco-Lacquered Spider.’ This cultivar spreads quickly by taking root everywhere the stolons come in contact with soil. It also self-seeds, and the seedlings germinate in spring. When using a cultivar of this golden star ground cover, space the plants 18 inches apart.
Care of Golden Star Ground Cover
Water the plants to keep the soil evenly moist but not wet or soggy. A thin layer of mulch helps the soil hold moisture and reduces the number of weeds. However, too much mulch slows the spread of green-and-gold plants because the stolons are less likely to come in contact with soil. Every other year, the plants should be lifted and divided or transplanted to another area. When lifting the plants, shake them to remove as much soil as possible. This stimulates the roots and reinvigorates the plants.
Golden star plants are sometimes bothered by slugs and snails. Control these pests with slug and snail bait. Read the label carefully to make sure the product you choose is safe around children, pets and wildlife.
Growing Golden Stars
Growing golden stars is easy. Golden star plants need at least half a day of sunlight. When grown in less light, the foliage loosens up and flowers are smaller and fewer in number.
The plants tolerate almost any type of soil, but do best when the soil is amended with plenty of organic matter. Good drainage is also essential. Space the plants 8 to 18 inches apart and allow them to spread and fill in the area.
Golden star plants make an excellent ground cover. One of the best varieties for this purpose is C. virginianum var. austral, which is sold under the cultivar name ‘Eco-Lacquered Spider.’ This cultivar spreads quickly by taking root everywhere the stolons come in contact with soil. It also self-seeds, and the seedlings germinate in spring. When using a cultivar of this golden star ground cover, space the plants 18 inches apart.
Care of Golden Star Ground Cover
Water the plants to keep the soil evenly moist but not wet or soggy. A thin layer of mulch helps the soil hold moisture and reduces the number of weeds. However, too much mulch slows the spread of green-and-gold plants because the stolons are less likely to come in contact with soil. Every other year, the plants should be lifted and divided or transplanted to another area. When lifting the plants, shake them to remove as much soil as possible. This stimulates the roots and reinvigorates the plants.
Golden star plants are sometimes bothered by slugs and snails. Control these pests with slug and snail bait. Read the label carefully to make sure the product you choose is safe around children, pets and wildlife.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Growing native plants is an excellent way to preserve national flora and have the added bonus of thriving easily since the soils and conditions are designed for their success. There are few plants designed to grow well in almost any climate, both for their beauty and as fodder for cattle, pigs, and many species of butterfly. Frog fruit is one of them.
What is Frog Fruit?
I love plants with odd names. Frog fruit (Lippia nodiflora syn. Phyla nodiflora) is also called turkey tangle frog fruit. What is frog fruit? It is a native plant of North America and in the Verbena family of flowering herbaceous plants.
Frog fruit plants are low growing plants that develop only about 3 to 5 inches in height. They are found wild in the southern half of the United States through tropical regions. The plants produce a unique flower from May until October that matures to white blooms with five petals on 4-inch long spikes. Plants spread to nearly 3 feet and form a dense mat of semi-woody stems. Leaves are attractive with small notched indents along the edges.
The plant prefers dry soil and will die back when freezing temperatures occur, with total death after an extended freeze. In the wild, they are found in inhospitable locations such as ditches, beaches and fields. So can you grow frog fruit natives as part of a landscaped garden?
Can You Grow Frog Fruit in the Garden?
Frog fruit plants grow as evergreen perennials in warm to temperate zones and add a wild touch as ground covers and bedding borders. As an addition to the home garden, they make excellent low maintenance ground cover or brighten up hanging baskets as trailing plants. Frog fruit grows fairly quickly from seed directly sown after soil has warmed or from cuttings. In fact, the plant is so prolific at self-seeding that you may end up with an invasive tangle on your hands. Although evergreen in most native regions, it will lose leaves in temperate climates when cold temperatures arrive in fall. In most cases, it will re-sprout in spring, provided the root zone wasn’t exposed to serious freezing temperatures. Growing frog fruit as part of the native woodland garden provides food for deer and can be a good sacrificial plant if the animals are nuisances for other parts of the garden.
Frog Fruit Plant Care
Frog fruit plants are such hardy specimens that they really need little assistance to thrive. Trim back stems if they get into areas where they are not wanted. Since they prosper on almost any soil, the plants need little supplemental fertilizer. If you want increased blooms, use a liquid bloom food in spring. Water is an important part of frog fruit plant care. While they like dry soil and need good drainage, they will need additional moisture during the hottest months of summer for best growth. The plant’s ease of care and spring and summer beauty make growing frog fruit a winner for the garden and landscape.
What is Frog Fruit?
I love plants with odd names. Frog fruit (Lippia nodiflora syn. Phyla nodiflora) is also called turkey tangle frog fruit. What is frog fruit? It is a native plant of North America and in the Verbena family of flowering herbaceous plants.
Frog fruit plants are low growing plants that develop only about 3 to 5 inches in height. They are found wild in the southern half of the United States through tropical regions. The plants produce a unique flower from May until October that matures to white blooms with five petals on 4-inch long spikes. Plants spread to nearly 3 feet and form a dense mat of semi-woody stems. Leaves are attractive with small notched indents along the edges.
The plant prefers dry soil and will die back when freezing temperatures occur, with total death after an extended freeze. In the wild, they are found in inhospitable locations such as ditches, beaches and fields. So can you grow frog fruit natives as part of a landscaped garden?
Can You Grow Frog Fruit in the Garden?
Frog fruit plants grow as evergreen perennials in warm to temperate zones and add a wild touch as ground covers and bedding borders. As an addition to the home garden, they make excellent low maintenance ground cover or brighten up hanging baskets as trailing plants. Frog fruit grows fairly quickly from seed directly sown after soil has warmed or from cuttings. In fact, the plant is so prolific at self-seeding that you may end up with an invasive tangle on your hands. Although evergreen in most native regions, it will lose leaves in temperate climates when cold temperatures arrive in fall. In most cases, it will re-sprout in spring, provided the root zone wasn’t exposed to serious freezing temperatures. Growing frog fruit as part of the native woodland garden provides food for deer and can be a good sacrificial plant if the animals are nuisances for other parts of the garden.
Frog Fruit Plant Care
Frog fruit plants are such hardy specimens that they really need little assistance to thrive. Trim back stems if they get into areas where they are not wanted. Since they prosper on almost any soil, the plants need little supplemental fertilizer. If you want increased blooms, use a liquid bloom food in spring. Water is an important part of frog fruit plant care. While they like dry soil and need good drainage, they will need additional moisture during the hottest months of summer for best growth. The plant’s ease of care and spring and summer beauty make growing frog fruit a winner for the garden and landscape.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Perennials are the gift that keeps on giving year after year and native varieties have the added bonus of blending into the natural landscape. Bishop’s cap plants (Mitella diphylla) are native perennials and can be found wild around North America, primarily distributed in temperate regions. What is bishop’s cap? Read on to learn more.
What is Bishop’s Cap?
This delicately lobed woodland plant pops up in spring and blooms soon after with little white cup-like flowers. The species is an easy-to-grow addition to a native landscape and bishop’s cap ground cover will produce an eruption of dainty leaves and charming scented bells. Not only do native species like bishop’s cap fit into the landscape more easily than exotics, but they are easier to maintain. This is because the conditions they are used to thriving in are already provided.
The perennial has 6- to 18-inch stalks with alternate and infrequent heart-shaped, slightly serrated leaves. The stalk rises from a base rosette and produces late spring blooms. The foliage is slightly hairy and the little flowers have a fringed appearance. The origin of the name is the most interesting bishop’s cap information. Fruits emerge in summer and resemble a miter headdress, or bishop’s hat.
Bishop’s Cap Plants Use in the Landscape
These wonderful little native plants produce a mass of tender foliage and snowflake-like blooms. They produce best in dappled light with protection from full midday sun but can tolerate shade conditions. When allowed to fill in an area, they make an interesting spring ground cover. Bishop’s cap ground cover should be cut back in fall for the best display in spring. This allows fresh new stems to grow and forces more compact growth. Tuck some of the elegant stalks in among other semi-shade perennials, such as astilbe or even hosta. They are ideal on hillsides protected by trees or in rocky areas where sunlight is strongest in the morning.
How to Plant Bishop’s Cap
Chose a location with partial sun where the soil is rich in organic matter. Leaf litter provides rich mulch for the plants. If you can get starts, set them into the ground in early spring and keep them moderately moist until the plants establish. Bishop’s cap plants also produce abundant seeds, which if collected, should be started indoors. An interesting bit of bishop’s cap information is its ability to self start from rhizomes. However, these starts are generally just vegetative and form only stalks and leaves, producing no blooms.
Care of Bishop’s Cap Plants
These plants will do the majority of their growth in early spring, when rains are at their peak. As a native plant, they require very little care once established and will bloom year after year with no extra effort on the gardener’s part. The usual garden pests and diseases may affect the plant, but the established patch of bishop’s cap is normally able to withstand minor problems with no ill effect on the overall vigor of the perennial.
What is Bishop’s Cap?
This delicately lobed woodland plant pops up in spring and blooms soon after with little white cup-like flowers. The species is an easy-to-grow addition to a native landscape and bishop’s cap ground cover will produce an eruption of dainty leaves and charming scented bells. Not only do native species like bishop’s cap fit into the landscape more easily than exotics, but they are easier to maintain. This is because the conditions they are used to thriving in are already provided.
The perennial has 6- to 18-inch stalks with alternate and infrequent heart-shaped, slightly serrated leaves. The stalk rises from a base rosette and produces late spring blooms. The foliage is slightly hairy and the little flowers have a fringed appearance. The origin of the name is the most interesting bishop’s cap information. Fruits emerge in summer and resemble a miter headdress, or bishop’s hat.
Bishop’s Cap Plants Use in the Landscape
These wonderful little native plants produce a mass of tender foliage and snowflake-like blooms. They produce best in dappled light with protection from full midday sun but can tolerate shade conditions. When allowed to fill in an area, they make an interesting spring ground cover. Bishop’s cap ground cover should be cut back in fall for the best display in spring. This allows fresh new stems to grow and forces more compact growth. Tuck some of the elegant stalks in among other semi-shade perennials, such as astilbe or even hosta. They are ideal on hillsides protected by trees or in rocky areas where sunlight is strongest in the morning.
How to Plant Bishop’s Cap
Chose a location with partial sun where the soil is rich in organic matter. Leaf litter provides rich mulch for the plants. If you can get starts, set them into the ground in early spring and keep them moderately moist until the plants establish. Bishop’s cap plants also produce abundant seeds, which if collected, should be started indoors. An interesting bit of bishop’s cap information is its ability to self start from rhizomes. However, these starts are generally just vegetative and form only stalks and leaves, producing no blooms.
Care of Bishop’s Cap Plants
These plants will do the majority of their growth in early spring, when rains are at their peak. As a native plant, they require very little care once established and will bloom year after year with no extra effort on the gardener’s part. The usual garden pests and diseases may affect the plant, but the established patch of bishop’s cap is normally able to withstand minor problems with no ill effect on the overall vigor of the perennial.
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