文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
If you are someone who has always been partial to hanging baskets, yet you like cacti and succulent plants, you might be wondering, “What are my choices?” There are plenty of succulent plants that hang down that are perfect for hanging baskets. Some cacti and succulents are best being allowed to grow tall or straight out of a pot. However, there are many types of hanging cactus and unusual succulents that enjoy growing in a hanging pot so they can stream down as each new piece starts.
Types of Hanging Cactus
Here are some popular hanging succulent plants: Burro’s tail (Sedum morganianum) – One of the prettiest sedums, this is one of those unusual succulents that grows in the pot and has pendant stems that tend to cascade down over the edges of the basket. The foliage is short and very light green. The entire plant is covered by bluish-silver blooms. Hanging succulent plants are usually easy to propagate, and the Burro’s tail is no exception. Flowering sansevieria (Sanservieria parva) – This particular hanging cactus starts out as an upright plant that ends up becoming one of those hanging succulent plants with bright green foliage. The foliage is shaped like a lance and can be one and a half feet in length. It also flowers with little pinkish-white blooms. Lamb’s tail – Similar to the Burro’s tail, this is one of the unusual succulents that has larger leaves that aren’t as tender as the Burro’s tail. Further, the leaves are a little stronger held than the Burro’s tail leaves which tend to drop when touched. Ragwort vine (Othonna capensis) – This is one of the creeping hanging succulent plants. It is actually a member of the Daisy family. It has trailing stems that reach many feet in length. This is an excellent example of plants that hang down because it trails nicely. It has yellow blooms that require sunshine in order to open up. This is a beautiful type of hanging cactus. String of hearts (Ceropegia woodii) – Sometimes called the rosary vine, the stems are long and pendulous and this is a great choice of hanging cacti if you are looking for plants that hang down beautifully. It has leaves shaped like hearts and while the upper surface of the leave is a pretty blue green with some silver, underneath the leaves you will find a beautiful purplish gray. Easily propagated, these types of hanging cactus are truly a great addition to any of your hanging plants. String of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus) – This easy-care succulent plant resembles a beaded necklace with its fleshy green, pea-like foliage and looks great in hanging baskets. String of nickels (Dischidia nummularia) – This trailing succulent plant has interesting foliage that screams for attention. It consists of round gray-green leaves which are flat and reminiscent of little coins (about nickel size) hanging from a string. There are many different types of hanging cactus, and they are pretty easy to care for because hanging succulent plants do not require watering as often as other hanging plants. In answer to, “What are my choices,” you can see there are plenty of choices to be had if you want to grow hanging cacti around your home and garden.
Types of Hanging Cactus
Here are some popular hanging succulent plants: Burro’s tail (Sedum morganianum) – One of the prettiest sedums, this is one of those unusual succulents that grows in the pot and has pendant stems that tend to cascade down over the edges of the basket. The foliage is short and very light green. The entire plant is covered by bluish-silver blooms. Hanging succulent plants are usually easy to propagate, and the Burro’s tail is no exception. Flowering sansevieria (Sanservieria parva) – This particular hanging cactus starts out as an upright plant that ends up becoming one of those hanging succulent plants with bright green foliage. The foliage is shaped like a lance and can be one and a half feet in length. It also flowers with little pinkish-white blooms. Lamb’s tail – Similar to the Burro’s tail, this is one of the unusual succulents that has larger leaves that aren’t as tender as the Burro’s tail. Further, the leaves are a little stronger held than the Burro’s tail leaves which tend to drop when touched. Ragwort vine (Othonna capensis) – This is one of the creeping hanging succulent plants. It is actually a member of the Daisy family. It has trailing stems that reach many feet in length. This is an excellent example of plants that hang down because it trails nicely. It has yellow blooms that require sunshine in order to open up. This is a beautiful type of hanging cactus. String of hearts (Ceropegia woodii) – Sometimes called the rosary vine, the stems are long and pendulous and this is a great choice of hanging cacti if you are looking for plants that hang down beautifully. It has leaves shaped like hearts and while the upper surface of the leave is a pretty blue green with some silver, underneath the leaves you will find a beautiful purplish gray. Easily propagated, these types of hanging cactus are truly a great addition to any of your hanging plants. String of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus) – This easy-care succulent plant resembles a beaded necklace with its fleshy green, pea-like foliage and looks great in hanging baskets. String of nickels (Dischidia nummularia) – This trailing succulent plant has interesting foliage that screams for attention. It consists of round gray-green leaves which are flat and reminiscent of little coins (about nickel size) hanging from a string. There are many different types of hanging cactus, and they are pretty easy to care for because hanging succulent plants do not require watering as often as other hanging plants. In answer to, “What are my choices,” you can see there are plenty of choices to be had if you want to grow hanging cacti around your home and garden.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Growing cacti and other succulent plants can be an addictive pastime! Cacti are collectible and are ideal for nice, sunny windowsills as are many of their succulent counterparts. Read on to learn more about growing cactus and succulent plants indoors.
Cacti and Succulent Info
Cacti are associated with the desert, and many thrive in regions of Central and South America. Other cacti, though, come from as far north as Canada, and many are even native to the rainforests. Like bromeliads, a lot of cacti are epiphytes, and the cacti that are forest dwelling species grow over forest trees. The desert-dwelling variety of cacti can survive for really long periods of time without rainfall. They get their moisture from dew or mist and store nutrients and moisture in their tissues.
The word “succulent” means “juicy.” Succulent plants have leaves or stems that are filled with juices, the stored water and nutrients that allow the plant to grow. These leaves allow the plant to withstand harsh conditions all over the world. Normally, these leaves have a glossy or leathery appearance, and the texture actually helps protect them from excessive moisture loss. Storing moisture the way they do is what defines cacti as succulents. What makes a cactus a cactus is that they grow growths, known as areoles. These are cushioned growing points that are technically compressed branches. Spines, “wool” flowers and offsets all grow from the areoles. A lot of succulents resemble cacti in every way except they don’t grow spines. This is what makes a succulent a succulent and not a cactus. In all but one genus of cactus, the Pereskia, the plants do not have leaves. The bodies of cacti are usually globular or cylindrical in shape. Opuntias have round, segmented stems. Epiphyllums have stems that look more like strap-shaped leaves. A lot of cacti have prominent spines, barbs or bristles and some have woolly hair. In fact, all cacti have spines even though they might be so small they’re insignificant. It’s not always appreciated that all cacti flower, and flower regularly if they are well-looked after.
Cacti and Succulents in the Home
There are a lot of succulent plants that can be grown in your home, and some of them are among the easiest plants to care for. They are actually great plants for beginners, but as with any gardening and houseplant growing, you have to know what you’re doing and dealing with in order to do well at growing them. Cacti and succulents make a great display, from the beautiful Nopalxochia ackermanii and the large flowers of the Epiphyllums (orchid cactus) to the weird and wonderful Astrophytum asterias (sea urchin cactus) or the hairy Cephalocereus senilis (old man cactus). It’s a shame that these plants are not cultivated more often! They are undemanding and will withstand most maltreatment except for overindulgence. Overindulgence accounts for those that are sitting around all dusty on people’s windowsills or those that are mushy and rotting from overwatering. They need bright light and fresh air, and they need a cool, dry winter rest as well. Forest cacti tend to trail and have large flowers. This makes them perfect for individual displays in hanging baskets. The desert types have interesting shapes and textures and can be highlighted in a grouped display. Planting a group of succulents or cacti in one larger bowl is very effective. Larger plants like aloes and agaves look best in a pot of their own. Any large shallow pot can be used as an excellent pot for a cacti or succulent garden. You want to select plants all about the same size with similar care requirements. These plants all require a lot of light, so make sure the container you select fits near a window. A layer of fine grit over the compost gives an attractive, yet, dry surface for the cacti in the pot. You can place clean pebbles between the plants to increase the desert effect. Some cacti look attractive in little pots all in a row. The mutant cultivars of Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is great this way because they have different colored heads.
Caring for Succulents and Cacti Plants
Most succulents and cacti require a lot of light. They are suitable for the sunniest of spots in your home. If you build some shelves across a sunny window you will be providing them with what they love. You want to be sure to turn the plants regularly to make sure all sides of the plant get equal sunny exposure. Every garden center has a great collection of cacti and succulents you can grow in your home. Some cacti, like the forest-growing Schlumbergera x buckleyi (Christmas cactus), are sold a seasonal plants or gift plants in department stores. It’s best to buy cacti that are already in flower because it takes years for this to happen. You should check them over and make sure they are sound with no trace of rot or areas that are shriveled or dry. They should be just the right size for their pot and you should make sure that they are not exposed to drafts when you get them home. If you purchase desert cacti, make sure they are planted in well-drained compost. They should be well watered with tepid water in spring and summer. However, the compost should be allowed to almost completely dry in winter months, especially if they are in cool conditions. This allows the cacti to go dormant. During periods of active growth, cacti should be fed about once every three weeks. You can use well-diluted tomato fertilizer for this purpose. Also, desert cacti like temperatures of 50-55 F. (10-13 C.). in the winter. You only need to repot desert cacti when the roots completely fill the pot. Forest cacti are very different. They usually have beautiful hanging flowers that grow from the tips of segmented stems. These stems look like chains of fleshy leaves. They grow this way because they’ve been trained to grow over trees. They are used to shade, but they do need some bright light. They need lime-free, light compost that is well drained and should be misted with tepid, soft water. They can be rested in 50-55 F. (10-13 C.). Water them moderately and feed them weekly with a weak fertilizer after winter and place them in a room with higher temperatures. There are 50 or more families of plants that can be considered succulents. They should be watered freely in the summer but only when their compost becomes dry. In the winter, they tolerate temperatures around 50 F. (10 C.). In the summer you should fertilize with well-diluted fertilizer every few weeks and they prefer fresh air instead of humidity. Desert cacti, forest cacti and succulents can all be grown together. They make stunning displays for your houseplant collection. They don’t take a lot of care, but you still need to know what they like and need.
Cacti and Succulent Info
Cacti are associated with the desert, and many thrive in regions of Central and South America. Other cacti, though, come from as far north as Canada, and many are even native to the rainforests. Like bromeliads, a lot of cacti are epiphytes, and the cacti that are forest dwelling species grow over forest trees. The desert-dwelling variety of cacti can survive for really long periods of time without rainfall. They get their moisture from dew or mist and store nutrients and moisture in their tissues.
The word “succulent” means “juicy.” Succulent plants have leaves or stems that are filled with juices, the stored water and nutrients that allow the plant to grow. These leaves allow the plant to withstand harsh conditions all over the world. Normally, these leaves have a glossy or leathery appearance, and the texture actually helps protect them from excessive moisture loss. Storing moisture the way they do is what defines cacti as succulents. What makes a cactus a cactus is that they grow growths, known as areoles. These are cushioned growing points that are technically compressed branches. Spines, “wool” flowers and offsets all grow from the areoles. A lot of succulents resemble cacti in every way except they don’t grow spines. This is what makes a succulent a succulent and not a cactus. In all but one genus of cactus, the Pereskia, the plants do not have leaves. The bodies of cacti are usually globular or cylindrical in shape. Opuntias have round, segmented stems. Epiphyllums have stems that look more like strap-shaped leaves. A lot of cacti have prominent spines, barbs or bristles and some have woolly hair. In fact, all cacti have spines even though they might be so small they’re insignificant. It’s not always appreciated that all cacti flower, and flower regularly if they are well-looked after.
Cacti and Succulents in the Home
There are a lot of succulent plants that can be grown in your home, and some of them are among the easiest plants to care for. They are actually great plants for beginners, but as with any gardening and houseplant growing, you have to know what you’re doing and dealing with in order to do well at growing them. Cacti and succulents make a great display, from the beautiful Nopalxochia ackermanii and the large flowers of the Epiphyllums (orchid cactus) to the weird and wonderful Astrophytum asterias (sea urchin cactus) or the hairy Cephalocereus senilis (old man cactus). It’s a shame that these plants are not cultivated more often! They are undemanding and will withstand most maltreatment except for overindulgence. Overindulgence accounts for those that are sitting around all dusty on people’s windowsills or those that are mushy and rotting from overwatering. They need bright light and fresh air, and they need a cool, dry winter rest as well. Forest cacti tend to trail and have large flowers. This makes them perfect for individual displays in hanging baskets. The desert types have interesting shapes and textures and can be highlighted in a grouped display. Planting a group of succulents or cacti in one larger bowl is very effective. Larger plants like aloes and agaves look best in a pot of their own. Any large shallow pot can be used as an excellent pot for a cacti or succulent garden. You want to select plants all about the same size with similar care requirements. These plants all require a lot of light, so make sure the container you select fits near a window. A layer of fine grit over the compost gives an attractive, yet, dry surface for the cacti in the pot. You can place clean pebbles between the plants to increase the desert effect. Some cacti look attractive in little pots all in a row. The mutant cultivars of Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is great this way because they have different colored heads.
Caring for Succulents and Cacti Plants
Most succulents and cacti require a lot of light. They are suitable for the sunniest of spots in your home. If you build some shelves across a sunny window you will be providing them with what they love. You want to be sure to turn the plants regularly to make sure all sides of the plant get equal sunny exposure. Every garden center has a great collection of cacti and succulents you can grow in your home. Some cacti, like the forest-growing Schlumbergera x buckleyi (Christmas cactus), are sold a seasonal plants or gift plants in department stores. It’s best to buy cacti that are already in flower because it takes years for this to happen. You should check them over and make sure they are sound with no trace of rot or areas that are shriveled or dry. They should be just the right size for their pot and you should make sure that they are not exposed to drafts when you get them home. If you purchase desert cacti, make sure they are planted in well-drained compost. They should be well watered with tepid water in spring and summer. However, the compost should be allowed to almost completely dry in winter months, especially if they are in cool conditions. This allows the cacti to go dormant. During periods of active growth, cacti should be fed about once every three weeks. You can use well-diluted tomato fertilizer for this purpose. Also, desert cacti like temperatures of 50-55 F. (10-13 C.). in the winter. You only need to repot desert cacti when the roots completely fill the pot. Forest cacti are very different. They usually have beautiful hanging flowers that grow from the tips of segmented stems. These stems look like chains of fleshy leaves. They grow this way because they’ve been trained to grow over trees. They are used to shade, but they do need some bright light. They need lime-free, light compost that is well drained and should be misted with tepid, soft water. They can be rested in 50-55 F. (10-13 C.). Water them moderately and feed them weekly with a weak fertilizer after winter and place them in a room with higher temperatures. There are 50 or more families of plants that can be considered succulents. They should be watered freely in the summer but only when their compost becomes dry. In the winter, they tolerate temperatures around 50 F. (10 C.). In the summer you should fertilize with well-diluted fertilizer every few weeks and they prefer fresh air instead of humidity. Desert cacti, forest cacti and succulents can all be grown together. They make stunning displays for your houseplant collection. They don’t take a lot of care, but you still need to know what they like and need.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
There are quite a few ways to take cuttings off succulent plants, so it’s no wonder why it may seem intimidating. Read here to get information on cacti and succulent propagation.
Propagating Cacti and Succulents
There are several ways to take cuttings off of succulent plants. Sometimes you’ll root the whole leaf. Sometimes you can cut a leaf into sections. Short stubs are taken from cacti. If you are detaching leaves, you have to be sure not to ruin the mother plant’s shape. If you take a few from the back of the plant, it’s probably not going to be a problem.
Propagating Succulent Leaf Pieces
Larger plants, like the snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), can be increased by cutting stems and leaves into pieces. All you would do is be sure to water the plant for a few days before you plan to take the cuttings. If you don’t, the leaves will be flaccid, and flaccid leaves do not root readily. Use a sharp knife and sever just one or two leaves at the base of each leaf. Make sure you take them from different areas of the plant. If you take them all from one side, you will ruin the shape of the plant. Take one of the severed leaves and place it on a flat surface. Using your sharp knife, cut the leaf into pieces about 5 cm deep. Make sure you cut cleanly because if you tear the leaf instead, it won’t root and will die off. Take a shallow, but wide, pot and fill it with equal parts of moist peat and sand, then rirm the compost mixture. Take your knife and form a slit and push a cutting about 2 cm down into the slit. You want to make sure the cutting is the right way up. Lightly water the compost, and then place the pot in gentle warmth.
Rooting Succulent Leaves
Many succulents, like October daphne (Sedum sieboldii ‘Mediovariegatum’), have small, circular, flat leaves. You can increase these easily in spring and early summer. Just press leaves into the surface of a pot filled with equal parts of sand and moist peat. Make sure the pot is well draining. It’s best to cut off a few stems rather than taking off a few leaves from several shoots. Just snap the leaves off, without squashing the stems. Lay them out and let them dry for a couple of days. Then take the leaves and press each one on the compost’s surface. After you have them all laid out, lightly water the leaves. Take the pot and put it in gentle warmth and light shade. Some succulents like the jade plant (Crassula ovata) can be taken off and inserted vertically into a pot with well-drained compost in spring and early summer. It’s not necessary to have high temperatures. Just select a healthy, well-watered plant and gently bend the leaves down. Doing so causes them to snap off close to the main stem. This is what you want. Lay the leaves out and let them dry for a couple of days. Fill a clean pot with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to about 1 cm below the rim. Take a pencil and form a hole about 20 mm deep and insert your cutting into it. Firm the compost around it to steady the “plant.” Water this pot and place it in light shade and gentle warmth.
Taking Cacti Cuttings
Most cacti have spines and are known quite well by these. This should never stop you from taking cuttings from them. If necessary, wear gloves while handling the cacti. Cacti that grow a mass of small stems from around the base are the easiest to increase. Mammillarias and Echinopsis spp. can be increased this way. Using a sharp knife, take off a well-formed young stem from around the outside of the clump of cacti. Sever the stems at the base so you don’t cause unsightly short stubs to be left on the mother plant. You always want to keep the attractiveness of the mother plant steady. Also, don’t take the stems all from the same position. This will also spoil the mother plant’s appearance. Lay the cuttings out and leave them alone for a couple of days so their ends can dry. Then insert the cuttings into the cactus compost. This will let them root a lot faster than if you insert them into the compost immediately after you cut them. Take a small pot and fill it with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to 1 cm below the rim. You will want to sprinkle a thin layer of sand on the surface and make a hole about 2.5 cm deep. Insert the cutting into the hole. Firm your compost around the cutting and place it in gentle warmth and light after lightly watering it. Rooting should happen in a few weeks if you’ve done this in spring or early summer when the plant is most likely to root. So don’t be afraid of succulents or cacti. They are plants just like the rest of them and just have a different way of being handled. The process of increasing these plants is just as simple as with other plants, so you should have no trouble at all increasing your beautiful collection of these wonderfully different plants.
Propagating Cacti and Succulents
There are several ways to take cuttings off of succulent plants. Sometimes you’ll root the whole leaf. Sometimes you can cut a leaf into sections. Short stubs are taken from cacti. If you are detaching leaves, you have to be sure not to ruin the mother plant’s shape. If you take a few from the back of the plant, it’s probably not going to be a problem.
Propagating Succulent Leaf Pieces
Larger plants, like the snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), can be increased by cutting stems and leaves into pieces. All you would do is be sure to water the plant for a few days before you plan to take the cuttings. If you don’t, the leaves will be flaccid, and flaccid leaves do not root readily. Use a sharp knife and sever just one or two leaves at the base of each leaf. Make sure you take them from different areas of the plant. If you take them all from one side, you will ruin the shape of the plant. Take one of the severed leaves and place it on a flat surface. Using your sharp knife, cut the leaf into pieces about 5 cm deep. Make sure you cut cleanly because if you tear the leaf instead, it won’t root and will die off. Take a shallow, but wide, pot and fill it with equal parts of moist peat and sand, then rirm the compost mixture. Take your knife and form a slit and push a cutting about 2 cm down into the slit. You want to make sure the cutting is the right way up. Lightly water the compost, and then place the pot in gentle warmth.
Rooting Succulent Leaves
Many succulents, like October daphne (Sedum sieboldii ‘Mediovariegatum’), have small, circular, flat leaves. You can increase these easily in spring and early summer. Just press leaves into the surface of a pot filled with equal parts of sand and moist peat. Make sure the pot is well draining. It’s best to cut off a few stems rather than taking off a few leaves from several shoots. Just snap the leaves off, without squashing the stems. Lay them out and let them dry for a couple of days. Then take the leaves and press each one on the compost’s surface. After you have them all laid out, lightly water the leaves. Take the pot and put it in gentle warmth and light shade. Some succulents like the jade plant (Crassula ovata) can be taken off and inserted vertically into a pot with well-drained compost in spring and early summer. It’s not necessary to have high temperatures. Just select a healthy, well-watered plant and gently bend the leaves down. Doing so causes them to snap off close to the main stem. This is what you want. Lay the leaves out and let them dry for a couple of days. Fill a clean pot with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to about 1 cm below the rim. Take a pencil and form a hole about 20 mm deep and insert your cutting into it. Firm the compost around it to steady the “plant.” Water this pot and place it in light shade and gentle warmth.
Taking Cacti Cuttings
Most cacti have spines and are known quite well by these. This should never stop you from taking cuttings from them. If necessary, wear gloves while handling the cacti. Cacti that grow a mass of small stems from around the base are the easiest to increase. Mammillarias and Echinopsis spp. can be increased this way. Using a sharp knife, take off a well-formed young stem from around the outside of the clump of cacti. Sever the stems at the base so you don’t cause unsightly short stubs to be left on the mother plant. You always want to keep the attractiveness of the mother plant steady. Also, don’t take the stems all from the same position. This will also spoil the mother plant’s appearance. Lay the cuttings out and leave them alone for a couple of days so their ends can dry. Then insert the cuttings into the cactus compost. This will let them root a lot faster than if you insert them into the compost immediately after you cut them. Take a small pot and fill it with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to 1 cm below the rim. You will want to sprinkle a thin layer of sand on the surface and make a hole about 2.5 cm deep. Insert the cutting into the hole. Firm your compost around the cutting and place it in gentle warmth and light after lightly watering it. Rooting should happen in a few weeks if you’ve done this in spring or early summer when the plant is most likely to root. So don’t be afraid of succulents or cacti. They are plants just like the rest of them and just have a different way of being handled. The process of increasing these plants is just as simple as with other plants, so you should have no trouble at all increasing your beautiful collection of these wonderfully different plants.
0
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Succulent plants are not only easy to care for but provide a wealth of intriguing shapes and stunning colors. What’s even better is the fact that these exotic showstoppers have the unique ability to grow in some of the most unlikely of places. And I bet you thought they were just desert plants. While these exotic plants are capable of storing water, which makes them ideal for growing in arid conditions, succulents also make wonderful houseplants, adding unique interest to any style.
Growing Beautiful Succulents
Succulents exhibit a number of survival tactics, which allows them to adapt easily to their particular environment. For instance, they will go dormant in times of excessive heat or dryness as well as during extreme cold spells. They also have the ability to adapt to areas of the home having little light, making them excellent candidates for nearly any location. Container-grown succulents make excellent indoor gardens. Growing succulents indoors will not only spruce up the home but will offer more flexibility as to both decorating and gardening options for those having little space. As these plants are highly adaptable, there are unlimited possibilities when designing your exotic indoor succulent garden. Nearly any type of container is suitable for growing exotic succulents as long as adequate drainage is provided. The exotic succulent garden will occasionally require significant watering; however, make sure that everything has dried thoroughly between watering intervals. Although these plants are easily adaptable, never allow them to stand in water for extended periods. When succulents are left in waterlogged soil, their roots will rot, and they will die. Different textures and heights will give the exotic succulent garden depth and further interest as will topping the potted delights with small stones or pebbles.
Types of Succulent Plants
Some of the most common succulent plants include: Sedum Hens and chicks Snake plant Jade Aloe Agave Kalanchoe Many people are unaware of the fact that cacti are also considered succulents. Cacti also come in many varieties and can be quite beautiful, providing outstanding flowers, additional interest and character to the home. When it comes to the unusual, succulents are definitely the way to go. Outside of the most commonly grown, these exotic succulents are sure to please, making exceptional specimens indoors: Black Aeonium is a dramatic succulent tree, reaching 3 feet in height. It makes an excellent focal point due to its height as well as its blackish leaves and large, yellow flowers. Aeoniums are easy to grow. Exotic succulents for hanging baskets also make great focal points. Two noteworthy plants include the string of beads, which produces a string of trailing stems with pea-like beaded leaves and sweet-scented white flowers. The rat’s tail cactus is another. This hanging exotic has long, spiked leaves with bright pink blooms. If you’re looking for something a little different, then the living stone is for you. Its conical shape actually mimics the look of pebbles. And just when you’ve thought you’ve seen it all, beautiful white blooms come bursting out from within its centers. Another interesting and somewhat unusual plant is the moonstone. This succulent also resembles stones with its light green to white colored, egg-shaped foliage, which may be flushed with lavender blue as well. If that’s not enough, the spikes of orange-red flowers are sure to impress. The starfish cactus is also quite impressive with clusters of toothed stems and star-shaped blooms in mosaic patterns. The curious looking carrion flower is a clump-forming succulent with sharp-angled stems that are grayish-green in color. The plant also produces an unusual creamy yellow flower with specks of red. The rose pincushion is great for anyone new to growing cacti. This free-flowering cactus is compact, like a little ball, and produces lovely rose-pink blooms. The golden ball cactus also resembles a ball, at first anyway. This odd little plant eventually grows into a fat, gold-spined column with pale yellow blooms. If you’re into something outside of the norm or just limited on space, exotic succulents are ideal plants to consider for maintaining interest indoors.
Growing Beautiful Succulents
Succulents exhibit a number of survival tactics, which allows them to adapt easily to their particular environment. For instance, they will go dormant in times of excessive heat or dryness as well as during extreme cold spells. They also have the ability to adapt to areas of the home having little light, making them excellent candidates for nearly any location. Container-grown succulents make excellent indoor gardens. Growing succulents indoors will not only spruce up the home but will offer more flexibility as to both decorating and gardening options for those having little space. As these plants are highly adaptable, there are unlimited possibilities when designing your exotic indoor succulent garden. Nearly any type of container is suitable for growing exotic succulents as long as adequate drainage is provided. The exotic succulent garden will occasionally require significant watering; however, make sure that everything has dried thoroughly between watering intervals. Although these plants are easily adaptable, never allow them to stand in water for extended periods. When succulents are left in waterlogged soil, their roots will rot, and they will die. Different textures and heights will give the exotic succulent garden depth and further interest as will topping the potted delights with small stones or pebbles.
Types of Succulent Plants
Some of the most common succulent plants include: Sedum Hens and chicks Snake plant Jade Aloe Agave Kalanchoe Many people are unaware of the fact that cacti are also considered succulents. Cacti also come in many varieties and can be quite beautiful, providing outstanding flowers, additional interest and character to the home. When it comes to the unusual, succulents are definitely the way to go. Outside of the most commonly grown, these exotic succulents are sure to please, making exceptional specimens indoors: Black Aeonium is a dramatic succulent tree, reaching 3 feet in height. It makes an excellent focal point due to its height as well as its blackish leaves and large, yellow flowers. Aeoniums are easy to grow. Exotic succulents for hanging baskets also make great focal points. Two noteworthy plants include the string of beads, which produces a string of trailing stems with pea-like beaded leaves and sweet-scented white flowers. The rat’s tail cactus is another. This hanging exotic has long, spiked leaves with bright pink blooms. If you’re looking for something a little different, then the living stone is for you. Its conical shape actually mimics the look of pebbles. And just when you’ve thought you’ve seen it all, beautiful white blooms come bursting out from within its centers. Another interesting and somewhat unusual plant is the moonstone. This succulent also resembles stones with its light green to white colored, egg-shaped foliage, which may be flushed with lavender blue as well. If that’s not enough, the spikes of orange-red flowers are sure to impress. The starfish cactus is also quite impressive with clusters of toothed stems and star-shaped blooms in mosaic patterns. The curious looking carrion flower is a clump-forming succulent with sharp-angled stems that are grayish-green in color. The plant also produces an unusual creamy yellow flower with specks of red. The rose pincushion is great for anyone new to growing cacti. This free-flowering cactus is compact, like a little ball, and produces lovely rose-pink blooms. The golden ball cactus also resembles a ball, at first anyway. This odd little plant eventually grows into a fat, gold-spined column with pale yellow blooms. If you’re into something outside of the norm or just limited on space, exotic succulents are ideal plants to consider for maintaining interest indoors.
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rlehotsky
2017年08月23日
Can someone help me identify this? And can you tell me where to acquire this plant? I love to collect unusual plants from around the world. My husband travels and takes photos of different plants for me.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
As the name implies, sunset hyssop plants produce trumpet-shaped blooms that share the colors of the sunset – bronze, salmon, orange and yellow, with hints of purple and deep pink. Native to Mexico, Arizona and New Mexico, sunset hyssop (Agastache rupestris) is a hardy, striking plant that attracts butterflies, bees and hummingbirds to the garden. Growing sunset hyssop isn’t difficult, as the plant is drought-tolerant and requires little maintenance. If this brief description has piqued your interest, read on to learn how to grow sunset hyssop in your own garden.
Sunset Hyssop Information
The fragrant aroma of sunset hyssop plants is reminiscent of root beer, thus giving it the moniker “root beer hyssop plant.” Sunset hyssop is a hardy, versatile, fast-growing plant suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 10. At maturity, clumps of sunset hyssop reach heights of 12 to 35 inches, with a similar spread.
Caring for Root Beer Hyssop Plants
Plant sunset hyssop in well-drained soil. Hyssop is a desert plant that is likely to develop root rot, powdery mildew or other moisture-related diseases in wet conditions. Water sunset hyssop regularly the first growing season, or until the plant is well established. Thereafter, sunset hyssop is very drought tolerant and generally does fine with natural rainfall. Mulch sunset hyssop lightly with pea gravel in late autumn if you live in the cooler range of hyssop’s acceptable growing zones. Avoid compost or organic mulch, which may keep the soil too moist. Deadhead flowers as soon as they wilt to encourage development of more buds. Deadheading also keeps the plant neat and attractive.
Divide sunset hyssop plants in late spring or summer if the plants look overgrown or are outgrowing their boundaries. Replant the divisions, or share them with friends or family. Cut sunset hyssop nearly to the ground in early spring. The plant will soon rebound with a burst of healthy, vigorous growth.
Sunset Hyssop Information
The fragrant aroma of sunset hyssop plants is reminiscent of root beer, thus giving it the moniker “root beer hyssop plant.” Sunset hyssop is a hardy, versatile, fast-growing plant suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 10. At maturity, clumps of sunset hyssop reach heights of 12 to 35 inches, with a similar spread.
Caring for Root Beer Hyssop Plants
Plant sunset hyssop in well-drained soil. Hyssop is a desert plant that is likely to develop root rot, powdery mildew or other moisture-related diseases in wet conditions. Water sunset hyssop regularly the first growing season, or until the plant is well established. Thereafter, sunset hyssop is very drought tolerant and generally does fine with natural rainfall. Mulch sunset hyssop lightly with pea gravel in late autumn if you live in the cooler range of hyssop’s acceptable growing zones. Avoid compost or organic mulch, which may keep the soil too moist. Deadhead flowers as soon as they wilt to encourage development of more buds. Deadheading also keeps the plant neat and attractive.
Divide sunset hyssop plants in late spring or summer if the plants look overgrown or are outgrowing their boundaries. Replant the divisions, or share them with friends or family. Cut sunset hyssop nearly to the ground in early spring. The plant will soon rebound with a burst of healthy, vigorous growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
The feverfew plant (Tanacetum parthenium) is actually a species of chrysanthemum that has been grown in herb and medicinal gardens for centuries. Read on to learn more about feverfew plants.
About Feverfew Plants
Also known as featherfew, featherfoil, or bachelor’s buttons, the feverfew herb was used in the past to treat a variety of conditions such as headaches, arthritis, and as the name implies, fever. Parthenolide, the active ingredient in the feverfew plant, is being actively developed for pharmaceutical application.
Looking like a small bush that grows to about 20 inches high, the feverfew plant is native to central and southern Europe and grows well over most of the United States. It has small, white, daisy-like flowers with bright yellow centers. Some gardeners claim the leaves are citrus scented. Others say the scent is bitter. All agree that once the feverfew herb takes hold, it can become invasive. Whether your interest lies in medicinal herbs or simply its decorative qualities, growing feverfew can be a welcome addition to any garden. Many garden centers carry feverfew plants or it can be grown from seed. The trick is knowing how. To grow feverfew from seed you can start indoors or out.
How to Grow Feverfew
Seeds for growing feverfew herb are readily available through catalogs or found in the seed racks of local garden centers. Don’t be confused by its Latin designation, as it is known by both Tanacetum parthenium or Chrysanthemum parthenium. The seeds are very fine and most easily planted in small peat pots filled with damp, loamy soil. Sprinkle a few seeds into the pot and tap the bottom of the pot on the counter to settle the seeds into the soil. Spray water to keep the seeds moist as poured water may dislodge the seeds. When placed in a sunny window or under a grow light, you should see signs of the feverfew seeds germinating in about two weeks. When the plants are about 3 inches tall, plant them, pot and all, into a sunny garden spot and water regularly until the roots take hold. If you decide on growing feverfew directly in the garden, the process is much the same. Sow the seed in early spring while the ground is still cool. Sprinkle the seeds on top of the soil and lightly tamp to make sure they make full contact. Don’t cover the seeds, as they need sunlight to germinate. As with the indoor seeds, water by misting so you don’t wash the seeds away. Your feverfew herb should sprout in about 14 days. When the plants are 3 to 5 inches, thin to 15 inches apart.
If you choose to grow your feverfew plant somewhere other than an herb garden, the only requirement is that the spot be sunny. They grow best in loamy soil, but aren’t fussy. Indoors, they tend to get leggy, but they flourish in outdoor containers. Feverfew is a perennial, so cut it back to the ground after frost and watch for it to regrow in the spring. It re-seeds fairly easily, so you might find yourself giving away new plants within a couple of years. The feverfew herb blooms between July and October.
About Feverfew Plants
Also known as featherfew, featherfoil, or bachelor’s buttons, the feverfew herb was used in the past to treat a variety of conditions such as headaches, arthritis, and as the name implies, fever. Parthenolide, the active ingredient in the feverfew plant, is being actively developed for pharmaceutical application.
Looking like a small bush that grows to about 20 inches high, the feverfew plant is native to central and southern Europe and grows well over most of the United States. It has small, white, daisy-like flowers with bright yellow centers. Some gardeners claim the leaves are citrus scented. Others say the scent is bitter. All agree that once the feverfew herb takes hold, it can become invasive. Whether your interest lies in medicinal herbs or simply its decorative qualities, growing feverfew can be a welcome addition to any garden. Many garden centers carry feverfew plants or it can be grown from seed. The trick is knowing how. To grow feverfew from seed you can start indoors or out.
How to Grow Feverfew
Seeds for growing feverfew herb are readily available through catalogs or found in the seed racks of local garden centers. Don’t be confused by its Latin designation, as it is known by both Tanacetum parthenium or Chrysanthemum parthenium. The seeds are very fine and most easily planted in small peat pots filled with damp, loamy soil. Sprinkle a few seeds into the pot and tap the bottom of the pot on the counter to settle the seeds into the soil. Spray water to keep the seeds moist as poured water may dislodge the seeds. When placed in a sunny window or under a grow light, you should see signs of the feverfew seeds germinating in about two weeks. When the plants are about 3 inches tall, plant them, pot and all, into a sunny garden spot and water regularly until the roots take hold. If you decide on growing feverfew directly in the garden, the process is much the same. Sow the seed in early spring while the ground is still cool. Sprinkle the seeds on top of the soil and lightly tamp to make sure they make full contact. Don’t cover the seeds, as they need sunlight to germinate. As with the indoor seeds, water by misting so you don’t wash the seeds away. Your feverfew herb should sprout in about 14 days. When the plants are 3 to 5 inches, thin to 15 inches apart.
If you choose to grow your feverfew plant somewhere other than an herb garden, the only requirement is that the spot be sunny. They grow best in loamy soil, but aren’t fussy. Indoors, they tend to get leggy, but they flourish in outdoor containers. Feverfew is a perennial, so cut it back to the ground after frost and watch for it to regrow in the spring. It re-seeds fairly easily, so you might find yourself giving away new plants within a couple of years. The feverfew herb blooms between July and October.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
While children may make wishes on the fuzzy heads of dandelions, gardeners and lawn enthusiasts tend to curse the cheery yellow flowers of dandelions when they appear. And for good reason. Dandelions will push out grass and other plants, as well as sapping water and nutrients away from surrounding plants. Dandelion control also tends to be difficult due to their fluffy and far floating seeds. But the answer to the question of how to get rid of dandelions is simply a matter of thoroughness and patience.
How to Get Rid of Dandelions
There are several methods for dandelion control. All methods for dandelion removal must be performed every year. Due to the fact that dandelion seeds can travel several miles on the wind, it is difficult, if not impossible, to have permanent removal of this weed from a garden or lawn.
How to Kill Dandelions with Herbicide
There are two basic types of herbicide that can be used on dandelions. The first is a selective broadleaf herbicide. A broadleaf herbicide will only kill broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions. A broadleaf herbicide is good for killing dandelions in lawns, as the herbicide will kill the dandelions and not the grass. The other kind of effective dandelion herbicide is a non-selective herbicide. Non-selective means that the herbicide will kill any plant that it comes in contact with. Glyphosate, typically known as Round-up, is the most common type of this kind of herbicide. Non-selective herbicide is effective for spot dandelion removal, such as killing dandelions in flower beds and in walkways. When using any herbicide for dandelion control, it will work best to apply the herbicide before the dandelion has developed flowers. Once dandelion flowers have emerged, the dandelion is far more resistant to herbicides and the herbicide, broadleaf or non-selective, will not be as effective.
Hand Digging for Dandelion Removal
The most effective, but also the most time consuming, method for dandelion control is hand digging them. Hand digging should be done in the spring, right when the first dandelion seedlings appear. Special “dandelion pullers” or similar tools can be bought to help with hand digging. When hand digging as a way of how to kill dandelions, it is important to remember that you must remove the entire taproot of the dandelion. Dandelion taproots can run deep. Because dandelion taproots grow deep, it is unlikely that you will kill every dandelion in your yard during the first round of hand digging. Every few weeks, hand dig any dandelions that re-emerge from their taproots.
Using a Pre-Emergent for Dandelion Control
A pre-emergent is a chemical that can be applied your lawn or flower bed to prevent seeds from germinating. When using a pre-emergent for dandelion control, it must be applied in late winter in order to be effective. The pre-emergent will prevent the dandelion seeds from germinating and is only effective if used before the dandelion seeds have had a chance to germinate. With all of the types of ways for controlling dandelions, the most important thing to keep in mind is that you need to prevent the dandelions from going to seed. Once the fluffy seed heads appear, the number of dandelions in your yard (and your neighbor’s) will multiply. But now that you know how to get rid of dandelions, you can be confident that with some time and effort, you can have a dandelion free yard.
How to Get Rid of Dandelions
There are several methods for dandelion control. All methods for dandelion removal must be performed every year. Due to the fact that dandelion seeds can travel several miles on the wind, it is difficult, if not impossible, to have permanent removal of this weed from a garden or lawn.
How to Kill Dandelions with Herbicide
There are two basic types of herbicide that can be used on dandelions. The first is a selective broadleaf herbicide. A broadleaf herbicide will only kill broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions. A broadleaf herbicide is good for killing dandelions in lawns, as the herbicide will kill the dandelions and not the grass. The other kind of effective dandelion herbicide is a non-selective herbicide. Non-selective means that the herbicide will kill any plant that it comes in contact with. Glyphosate, typically known as Round-up, is the most common type of this kind of herbicide. Non-selective herbicide is effective for spot dandelion removal, such as killing dandelions in flower beds and in walkways. When using any herbicide for dandelion control, it will work best to apply the herbicide before the dandelion has developed flowers. Once dandelion flowers have emerged, the dandelion is far more resistant to herbicides and the herbicide, broadleaf or non-selective, will not be as effective.
Hand Digging for Dandelion Removal
The most effective, but also the most time consuming, method for dandelion control is hand digging them. Hand digging should be done in the spring, right when the first dandelion seedlings appear. Special “dandelion pullers” or similar tools can be bought to help with hand digging. When hand digging as a way of how to kill dandelions, it is important to remember that you must remove the entire taproot of the dandelion. Dandelion taproots can run deep. Because dandelion taproots grow deep, it is unlikely that you will kill every dandelion in your yard during the first round of hand digging. Every few weeks, hand dig any dandelions that re-emerge from their taproots.
Using a Pre-Emergent for Dandelion Control
A pre-emergent is a chemical that can be applied your lawn or flower bed to prevent seeds from germinating. When using a pre-emergent for dandelion control, it must be applied in late winter in order to be effective. The pre-emergent will prevent the dandelion seeds from germinating and is only effective if used before the dandelion seeds have had a chance to germinate. With all of the types of ways for controlling dandelions, the most important thing to keep in mind is that you need to prevent the dandelions from going to seed. Once the fluffy seed heads appear, the number of dandelions in your yard (and your neighbor’s) will multiply. But now that you know how to get rid of dandelions, you can be confident that with some time and effort, you can have a dandelion free yard.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Growing cilantro indoors can be as successful and flavorful as growing cilantro in your garden if you give the plant a little extra care. When planting cilantro indoors, it’s best not to transplant plants from your garden. Cilantro does not transplant well. When you grow cilantro indoors, start with seeds or starter plants. Ultimately, make sure that your plants are 3 to 4 inches apart.
Tips for Growing Cilantro Indoors
It’s best to use an unglazed terra cotta container when growing cilantro inside because it allows for greater moisture and air to pass through the roots. Make sure that you have plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the container. Cilantro growing indoors needs more nutrition because the root system range is limited and can’t access as much soil for nutrients as it would in your garden. The soil when planting cilantro indoors should be a mixture of potting soil and sand to allow water to move freely. In addition, you can use a fertilizer of liquid fish emulsion or chemical formulation of 20-20-20 to add additional nutrients. Use half concentrations of the fertilizers bi-weekly during the active growing periods.
Thorough watering is more important than frequent watering when growing cilantro inside. Water the plants until the water comes out the drainage holes. Check the soil frequently, but cilantro growing indoors should only be watered when the soil is dry to the touch. This will be more often in the summer months. To grow cilantro indoors, it’s important that the plant have full sun four to five hours per day. If you also use a growing light, growing the cilantro inside will be more successful.
Harvesting Cilantro Growing Indoors
When you grow cilantro indoors, it’s important to harvest it with care. Indoor herbs naturally reach for the light and can, therefore, become spindly. Pinch them at the growing tips to force a bushier plant. Keep in mind when planting cilantro indoors that it will grow less abundantly than when grown outside in your garden. However, with added care and attention to sun exposure, soil mixture, moisture and gentle harvesting, you will be rewarded with this flavorful and aromatic herb year round.
Tips for Growing Cilantro Indoors
It’s best to use an unglazed terra cotta container when growing cilantro inside because it allows for greater moisture and air to pass through the roots. Make sure that you have plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the container. Cilantro growing indoors needs more nutrition because the root system range is limited and can’t access as much soil for nutrients as it would in your garden. The soil when planting cilantro indoors should be a mixture of potting soil and sand to allow water to move freely. In addition, you can use a fertilizer of liquid fish emulsion or chemical formulation of 20-20-20 to add additional nutrients. Use half concentrations of the fertilizers bi-weekly during the active growing periods.
Thorough watering is more important than frequent watering when growing cilantro inside. Water the plants until the water comes out the drainage holes. Check the soil frequently, but cilantro growing indoors should only be watered when the soil is dry to the touch. This will be more often in the summer months. To grow cilantro indoors, it’s important that the plant have full sun four to five hours per day. If you also use a growing light, growing the cilantro inside will be more successful.
Harvesting Cilantro Growing Indoors
When you grow cilantro indoors, it’s important to harvest it with care. Indoor herbs naturally reach for the light and can, therefore, become spindly. Pinch them at the growing tips to force a bushier plant. Keep in mind when planting cilantro indoors that it will grow less abundantly than when grown outside in your garden. However, with added care and attention to sun exposure, soil mixture, moisture and gentle harvesting, you will be rewarded with this flavorful and aromatic herb year round.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Chances are pretty good that if you have ever grown cilantro you ended up with coriander seeds at some point. Coriander is the fruit or seed from the cilantro plant, which is also sometimes called the coriander plant. Letting cilantro plants bolt is how to grow coriander. The bolted plants send out flowers and seed in high heat. Growing coriander is easy and rewards you with a seasoning that adds exotic interest to your dishes.
What are Coriander Seeds?
Coriander is a seasoning. It is a hard, round little seed that is a light brown color. Coriander seeds are ground and used in breads, Indian and Middle Eastern foods, Latin and Asian cuisine and is also a component of pickling spices. Cilantro seed answers the question, “What is Coriander?” The coriander plant goes to seed if it is planted when summer is in full swing. If you want cilantro for the citrusy leaves, you need to plant it when temperatures are still cool in spring.
How to Grow Coriander
Plant seeds in late spring to early summer. The plant needs rich, well-drained soil and a moderate amount of water. Sow in a full sun location for best production in loam or sandy soil. Space the seeds 8 to 10 inches apart in rows 15 inches apart. By midsummer, the coriander flowers will appear as white lacy umbels. In a couple of weeks the plant will set seed. Neglect is actually the best method of how to grow coriander. The formation of coriander seeds is dependent upon day length, sunlight and temperatures. Cilantro has a short growing season in hot climates and bolts when it is finished growing. Plants grown in mid summer will bolt in only four to six weeks due to the high temperatures. The varieties of cilantro seed that do not say they are slow to bolt will produce the quickest coriander crop. Slow to bolt means the plants will not form seed quickly and are more suitable for the cilantro leaves.
How to Harvest Coriander from Cilantro Plants
Coriander seeds need to be harvested before they drop off the plant. The pretty little flowers are attractive to honeybees and butterflies and turn into the seeds after pollination. The seeds are tiny and will be loose on the stem when ripe. Place a bag under the old flower stem and cut it off. Shake the stem into the bag and the ripe seeds will fall in. The seeds are best used as soon as possible but can be stored in a tightly sealed container.
How to Use Coriander Seed
Coriander needs to be ground in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle for use in cooking. You can also toast the seeds to bring out the flavor or wrap them with other seasonings in cheese cloth as a bouquet garni. The ground seed is most often found in curry powders such as Taklia, which is an Arab condiment, and garam masala. It is used in soups, stews, baked goods, desserts and as a rub on meats.
What are Coriander Seeds?
Coriander is a seasoning. It is a hard, round little seed that is a light brown color. Coriander seeds are ground and used in breads, Indian and Middle Eastern foods, Latin and Asian cuisine and is also a component of pickling spices. Cilantro seed answers the question, “What is Coriander?” The coriander plant goes to seed if it is planted when summer is in full swing. If you want cilantro for the citrusy leaves, you need to plant it when temperatures are still cool in spring.
How to Grow Coriander
Plant seeds in late spring to early summer. The plant needs rich, well-drained soil and a moderate amount of water. Sow in a full sun location for best production in loam or sandy soil. Space the seeds 8 to 10 inches apart in rows 15 inches apart. By midsummer, the coriander flowers will appear as white lacy umbels. In a couple of weeks the plant will set seed. Neglect is actually the best method of how to grow coriander. The formation of coriander seeds is dependent upon day length, sunlight and temperatures. Cilantro has a short growing season in hot climates and bolts when it is finished growing. Plants grown in mid summer will bolt in only four to six weeks due to the high temperatures. The varieties of cilantro seed that do not say they are slow to bolt will produce the quickest coriander crop. Slow to bolt means the plants will not form seed quickly and are more suitable for the cilantro leaves.
How to Harvest Coriander from Cilantro Plants
Coriander seeds need to be harvested before they drop off the plant. The pretty little flowers are attractive to honeybees and butterflies and turn into the seeds after pollination. The seeds are tiny and will be loose on the stem when ripe. Place a bag under the old flower stem and cut it off. Shake the stem into the bag and the ripe seeds will fall in. The seeds are best used as soon as possible but can be stored in a tightly sealed container.
How to Use Coriander Seed
Coriander needs to be ground in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle for use in cooking. You can also toast the seeds to bring out the flavor or wrap them with other seasonings in cheese cloth as a bouquet garni. The ground seed is most often found in curry powders such as Taklia, which is an Arab condiment, and garam masala. It is used in soups, stews, baked goods, desserts and as a rub on meats.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
When you’re starting your indoor herb garden for convenient culinary use, be sure to include some indoor chervil plants. Growing chervil indoors provides you an abundance of the delicately scented, annual herb for cooking. Chervil is an integral part of the “fines herbes” blend (a combination of finely chopped herbs) used in French cooking. Growing the plant indoors is an optimum use of the herb, as it does not flourish outside in hot summer heat and sun. When growing chervil indoors or outside, plants prefer light shade and cool temperatures. Garden chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) should not be confused with turnip rooted chervil. Rooted chervil is obscure in American and British food, but is still sometimes used in French cuisine. The chervil discussed here is similar in appearance to flat leaved parsley, with a more delicate flavor and demeanor. It is sometimes called gourmet’s parsley.
How to Grow Chervil Indoors
Seeds of indoor chervil plants should be planted into their permanent container or started in biodegradable seed starting pots that can go directly into rich, organic soil. The tap-rooted plant does not transplant well. Plant the small seeds shallowly. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, to avoid the seeds rotting or damping off after germination.
Caring for Chervil Plants
Chervil plants reach 12 to 24 inches in height. Caring for indoor chervil plants should include frequent clipping of the new growth on the top of the plant. Clippings of the plant are best used fresh. Regular trimming of top leaves makes the plant bushier and more attractive and slows the tendency of growing chervil indoors to bolt. If bolting happens often when growing chervil indoors, start new plantings every few weeks to maintain a continuous supply. When plants seem to be going to seed quickly, decrease the sunlight and move the container to a cooler location. Use fresh seed for the best germination rate when growing indoor chervil plants. Companion plants for growing chervil indoors can include tarragon, chives and parsley, also used in the French fine herbes mix. Locate indoor chervil plants in the container so they can be shaded by the other herbs.
Uses for Indoor Chervil Plants
Growing chervil indoors, in or near the kitchen, makes it convenient to use the herb in many dishes you may be preparing. Now that you’ve learned how to grow chervil indoors, use clippings often. The frilly leaves of chervil plants may be finely chopped and added to omelets or other egg dishes. Chervil flavors young vegetables, soups, salads, casseroles and a variety of other recipes.
How to Grow Chervil Indoors
Seeds of indoor chervil plants should be planted into their permanent container or started in biodegradable seed starting pots that can go directly into rich, organic soil. The tap-rooted plant does not transplant well. Plant the small seeds shallowly. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, to avoid the seeds rotting or damping off after germination.
Caring for Chervil Plants
Chervil plants reach 12 to 24 inches in height. Caring for indoor chervil plants should include frequent clipping of the new growth on the top of the plant. Clippings of the plant are best used fresh. Regular trimming of top leaves makes the plant bushier and more attractive and slows the tendency of growing chervil indoors to bolt. If bolting happens often when growing chervil indoors, start new plantings every few weeks to maintain a continuous supply. When plants seem to be going to seed quickly, decrease the sunlight and move the container to a cooler location. Use fresh seed for the best germination rate when growing indoor chervil plants. Companion plants for growing chervil indoors can include tarragon, chives and parsley, also used in the French fine herbes mix. Locate indoor chervil plants in the container so they can be shaded by the other herbs.
Uses for Indoor Chervil Plants
Growing chervil indoors, in or near the kitchen, makes it convenient to use the herb in many dishes you may be preparing. Now that you’ve learned how to grow chervil indoors, use clippings often. The frilly leaves of chervil plants may be finely chopped and added to omelets or other egg dishes. Chervil flavors young vegetables, soups, salads, casseroles and a variety of other recipes.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Considered by some to be just an invasive weed and by others as a culinary delight, cardoon plants are a member of the thistle family, and in appearance, are very similar to the globe artichoke; indeed it is also referred to as the artichoke thistle. So what is cardoon — weed or useful medicinal or edible plant? Growing cardoon attains a height of up to 5 feet tall and 6 feet wide at maturity, depending upon the cultivar. Large spiny perennials, cardoon plants flower from August to September and its flower buds may be eaten just as the artichoke’s are. 
Artichoke Thistle Info
Native to the Mediterranean, cardoon plants (Cynara cardunculus) are now found in dry grassy areas of California and Australia, where it is considered a weed. Originally cultivated in Southern Europe as a vegetable, growing cardoon was brought to the American kitchen garden by the Quakers in the early 1790’s. Today, cardoon plants are grown for their ornamental properties, such as the silvery grey, serrated foliage and bright purple flowers. The architectural drama of the foliage provides year round interest in herb garden and along borders. The vibrant blooms are also great attractors of bees and butterflies, which pollinate the hermaphroditic flowers.
The “How Tos” of Cardoon Planting
Cardoon planting should occur via seed indoors in late winter or early spring, and seedlings may be transplanted outside after the danger of frost has passed. Mature cardoon plants should be divided and cardoon planting of the offsets accomplished in early spring, leaving plenty of space between for growth. Although cardoons can grow in nutritionally poor soil (highly acidic or alkaline), they prefer full sun and deep, rich soil. As mentioned, they can be divided or planted by seed propagation. Cardoon seeds are viable for around seven years or so once they ripen from September to October and are collected.
Harvesting Cardoon
Other artichoke thistle info reinforces the cardoon size; it is much larger and hardier than globe artichokes. While some people eat the tender flower buds, most folks eat the fleshy, thick leaf stalks, which require plentiful irrigation for healthy growth. When harvesting cardoon leaf stalks, they need to be blanched first. Strangely, this is done by tying the plant into a bundle, wrapping with straw and then mounded with soil and left for one month. Cardoon plants being harvested for culinary purposes are treated as annuals and are harvested during the winter months – in areas of mild winters, from November to February and then re-sowed in early spring. The tender leaves and stalks can be cooked or eaten fresh in salads while the blanched portions are used like celery in stews and soups. The wild cardoon’s stem is covered with small, almost invisible spines that can be quite painful, so gloves are useful when attempting to harvest. However, a mostly spineless cultivated variety has been bred for the home gardener.
Other Uses for Cardoon Plants
Beyond its edibility, growing cardoon may also be used as a medicinal plant. Some people say it has mild laxative qualities. It also contains cynarin, which has cholesterol-lowering effects, although most cynarin is garnered from the globe artichoke due to its comparative ease of cultivation. Bio-diesel fuel research is now focusing on cardoon plants as a source of alternate oil processed from its seeds.
Artichoke Thistle Info
Native to the Mediterranean, cardoon plants (Cynara cardunculus) are now found in dry grassy areas of California and Australia, where it is considered a weed. Originally cultivated in Southern Europe as a vegetable, growing cardoon was brought to the American kitchen garden by the Quakers in the early 1790’s. Today, cardoon plants are grown for their ornamental properties, such as the silvery grey, serrated foliage and bright purple flowers. The architectural drama of the foliage provides year round interest in herb garden and along borders. The vibrant blooms are also great attractors of bees and butterflies, which pollinate the hermaphroditic flowers.
The “How Tos” of Cardoon Planting
Cardoon planting should occur via seed indoors in late winter or early spring, and seedlings may be transplanted outside after the danger of frost has passed. Mature cardoon plants should be divided and cardoon planting of the offsets accomplished in early spring, leaving plenty of space between for growth. Although cardoons can grow in nutritionally poor soil (highly acidic or alkaline), they prefer full sun and deep, rich soil. As mentioned, they can be divided or planted by seed propagation. Cardoon seeds are viable for around seven years or so once they ripen from September to October and are collected.
Harvesting Cardoon
Other artichoke thistle info reinforces the cardoon size; it is much larger and hardier than globe artichokes. While some people eat the tender flower buds, most folks eat the fleshy, thick leaf stalks, which require plentiful irrigation for healthy growth. When harvesting cardoon leaf stalks, they need to be blanched first. Strangely, this is done by tying the plant into a bundle, wrapping with straw and then mounded with soil and left for one month. Cardoon plants being harvested for culinary purposes are treated as annuals and are harvested during the winter months – in areas of mild winters, from November to February and then re-sowed in early spring. The tender leaves and stalks can be cooked or eaten fresh in salads while the blanched portions are used like celery in stews and soups. The wild cardoon’s stem is covered with small, almost invisible spines that can be quite painful, so gloves are useful when attempting to harvest. However, a mostly spineless cultivated variety has been bred for the home gardener.
Other Uses for Cardoon Plants
Beyond its edibility, growing cardoon may also be used as a medicinal plant. Some people say it has mild laxative qualities. It also contains cynarin, which has cholesterol-lowering effects, although most cynarin is garnered from the globe artichoke due to its comparative ease of cultivation. Bio-diesel fuel research is now focusing on cardoon plants as a source of alternate oil processed from its seeds.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Burdock weeds are troublesome plants that grow in pastures, along ditches and roadsides and in many other disturbed areas across the United States. The weed is recognized by its large, oval or triangular “elephant-ear” leaves. The upper surface of the dark green leaves may be smooth or hairy and the lower leaf surface is typically wooly and pale green. The plant bolts in the second year and can reach heights of 3 to 10 feet. The small flowers, which are numerous, may be lavender, white, purple or pink. Why are burdock weeds so troublesome, and why is burdock management so critical? Read on to find out how to get rid of this weed.
Reasons for Controlling Common Burdock
It’s extremely difficult to eradicate burdock. Seeds spread quickly when the seed heads dry and break, scattering thousands of seeds far and wide. The weeds also spread when the prickly burs catch a ride on passing people or animals. Some people may experience unpleasant allergic reactions when the bristles contact the skin. The burs can cause real problems for livestock, resulting in eye infections, skin problems and mouth sores. The plant can also host root rot, powdery mildew and other diseases that can spread to agricultural plants.
How to Kill Burdock
Digging, hand pulling or plowing can be effective ways of controlling common burdock when the weeds are small. These techniques don’t work well on larger plants because it’s difficult to remove the entire taproot. You can mow taller plants, but mowing must be done before the plant has bloomed or you will simply spread the seeds. A number of herbicides are useful for controlling common burdock, including dicamba, 2,4-D, picloram, glyphosate and others. Unfortunately, burdock often grows in difficult, hard-to-access areas. Manual removal is often the only recourse as well as the most environmentally friendly.
Reasons for Controlling Common Burdock
It’s extremely difficult to eradicate burdock. Seeds spread quickly when the seed heads dry and break, scattering thousands of seeds far and wide. The weeds also spread when the prickly burs catch a ride on passing people or animals. Some people may experience unpleasant allergic reactions when the bristles contact the skin. The burs can cause real problems for livestock, resulting in eye infections, skin problems and mouth sores. The plant can also host root rot, powdery mildew and other diseases that can spread to agricultural plants.
How to Kill Burdock
Digging, hand pulling or plowing can be effective ways of controlling common burdock when the weeds are small. These techniques don’t work well on larger plants because it’s difficult to remove the entire taproot. You can mow taller plants, but mowing must be done before the plant has bloomed or you will simply spread the seeds. A number of herbicides are useful for controlling common burdock, including dicamba, 2,4-D, picloram, glyphosate and others. Unfortunately, burdock often grows in difficult, hard-to-access areas. Manual removal is often the only recourse as well as the most environmentally friendly.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Burdock is a native of Eurasia but has quickly become naturalized in North America. The plant is an herbaceous biennial with a long history of edible and medicinal use by native people. For gardeners who wish to try growing burdock plants, seed is available from numerous sources and the plant is adaptable to any light level and most soils. This is an easy plant to grow either as an herbal medicine or as an interesting vegetable. As a part of your medicinal or edible garden, very little burdock plant care is necessary once established.
About Burdock Plants
Burdock occurs in undisturbed sites where the plant forms a rosette the first year and a flowering spike the second. Both the roots and young leaves and shoots are edible. The plant is easy to grow and can produce roots up to 2 feet long in 100 days or less. Gardeners who want to know how to grow burdock should know that it is easier to harvest roots if planted in sandy, loose soil.
Burdock may reach 2 to 9 feet in height and produces rough, sticky burred fruits. From these fruits comes its scientific name, Articum lappa. In Greek, ‘arktos’ means bear and ‘lappos’ means seize. This refers to the fruits or seed capsules which are barbed with spurs that grab onto animal fur and clothing. In fact, from these fruit, it is said the idea from Velcro was developed. The flowers are bright pinkish-purple and similar to many thistle species. The leaves are broad and lightly lobed. The plant will self-seed readily and can become a nuisance if not managed. This should pose no problem if you are continually deadheading the plant or if you intend to use it as a root vegetable. Another way to contain the plant is by growing burdock in pots.
Burdock Plant Uses
Among the many burdock plant uses is in the treatment of scalp and skin problems. It is also known to be a liver treatment and stimulates the digestive system. It is a detoxifying herb and diuretic and has also been used as an antidote in some cases of poisoning. In China, the seeds are used to treat colds and cough. Medical uses of burdock stem from the plant’s use in tinctures and decoctions resulting in salves, lotions and other topical applications. It is also a popular food plant, known as gobo, in Asian cooking. Roots are eaten either raw or cooked, and leaves and stems are used like spinach. Indigenous Americans were growing burdock plants in their own vegetable gardens before the country was settled by Europeans.
How to Grow Burdock
Burdock prefers loamy soil and a neutral pH in areas with average water. Seeds should be stratified and germinate at 80 to 90 % when sown directly in spring after all danger of frost has passed. Plant seeds 1/8 inch under the soil and keep evenly moist. Germination takes place in 1-2 weeks. Once seed has germinated, young plants grow quickly but it takes some time to establish a taproot of sufficient size to harvest. Plants should be spaced at least 18 inches apart. For the most part, burdock has no significant pest or disease issues. Continued burdock plant care is minimal but steps may have to be taken to manage the spread of the plant. Harvest leaves when young and tender and wait a year before taking the root.
About Burdock Plants
Burdock occurs in undisturbed sites where the plant forms a rosette the first year and a flowering spike the second. Both the roots and young leaves and shoots are edible. The plant is easy to grow and can produce roots up to 2 feet long in 100 days or less. Gardeners who want to know how to grow burdock should know that it is easier to harvest roots if planted in sandy, loose soil.
Burdock may reach 2 to 9 feet in height and produces rough, sticky burred fruits. From these fruits comes its scientific name, Articum lappa. In Greek, ‘arktos’ means bear and ‘lappos’ means seize. This refers to the fruits or seed capsules which are barbed with spurs that grab onto animal fur and clothing. In fact, from these fruit, it is said the idea from Velcro was developed. The flowers are bright pinkish-purple and similar to many thistle species. The leaves are broad and lightly lobed. The plant will self-seed readily and can become a nuisance if not managed. This should pose no problem if you are continually deadheading the plant or if you intend to use it as a root vegetable. Another way to contain the plant is by growing burdock in pots.
Burdock Plant Uses
Among the many burdock plant uses is in the treatment of scalp and skin problems. It is also known to be a liver treatment and stimulates the digestive system. It is a detoxifying herb and diuretic and has also been used as an antidote in some cases of poisoning. In China, the seeds are used to treat colds and cough. Medical uses of burdock stem from the plant’s use in tinctures and decoctions resulting in salves, lotions and other topical applications. It is also a popular food plant, known as gobo, in Asian cooking. Roots are eaten either raw or cooked, and leaves and stems are used like spinach. Indigenous Americans were growing burdock plants in their own vegetable gardens before the country was settled by Europeans.
How to Grow Burdock
Burdock prefers loamy soil and a neutral pH in areas with average water. Seeds should be stratified and germinate at 80 to 90 % when sown directly in spring after all danger of frost has passed. Plant seeds 1/8 inch under the soil and keep evenly moist. Germination takes place in 1-2 weeks. Once seed has germinated, young plants grow quickly but it takes some time to establish a taproot of sufficient size to harvest. Plants should be spaced at least 18 inches apart. For the most part, burdock has no significant pest or disease issues. Continued burdock plant care is minimal but steps may have to be taken to manage the spread of the plant. Harvest leaves when young and tender and wait a year before taking the root.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Companion planting is based on the idea that some plants perform better if they are located near a strategic plant partner. This partner may attract beneficial insects, improve soil quality, or even share root space in a mutually beneficial manner. Read on to learn about borage and companion planting.
Plants That Grow Well with Borage
Using borage (Borago officinalis) as a companion plant is good choice. Plants that grow well with borage include:
Tomatoes
Cabbage
Squash
Strawberries
The borage companion plant is said to repel tomato worms and cabbage worms because borage attracts beneficial insects, such as bees and tiny wasps. As we know these are great plant pollinators, but they also repel garden pests. Additionally, borage works well in the garden alongside many types of herbs and flowers. So bring on the borage as a companion plant!
Companion Planting with Borage
Companion planting with borage is a rich subject. Borage has a reputation for improving the flavor and growth of strawberries. This may be due to the fact that it adds trace minerals to the soil. Borage leaves are known to contain potassium, calcium and Vitamin C. Because borage leaves are rich in minerals and vitamins, the leaves make nice mulch for almost any vegetable. Use the older, larger, fading leaves for this purpose. Borage plant material is also a rich contributor of nutrients and bulk for your compost bin. Buy borage seeds to start your companion planting endeavor. The seeds germinate quite easily. You can also buy borage seedlings at your local nurseries or sometimes at farmers’ markets. Please note that borage reseeds itself vigorously. If borage pops up in places you don’t want, they are very easy to weed out of your planting beds.
Borage leaves are coarse, thick and hairy. The flowers are the star of the show with this plant. Tiny little lavender or blue colored star-shaped flowers bloom on and on throughout the growing season. In mild climates, borage sometimes blossoms throughout the winter. The borage companion plant takes sun or part shade and prefers moist soil. Borage flowers and immature borage leaves are edible. The flowers are a tiny bit spicy and very pretty in salads, iced lemonade, or stir-fry (add at the very end). Note of caution: Pregnant and nursing women should not eat borage. It isn’t good for their health or the health of their babies.
Plants That Grow Well with Borage
Using borage (Borago officinalis) as a companion plant is good choice. Plants that grow well with borage include:
Tomatoes
Cabbage
Squash
Strawberries
The borage companion plant is said to repel tomato worms and cabbage worms because borage attracts beneficial insects, such as bees and tiny wasps. As we know these are great plant pollinators, but they also repel garden pests. Additionally, borage works well in the garden alongside many types of herbs and flowers. So bring on the borage as a companion plant!
Companion Planting with Borage
Companion planting with borage is a rich subject. Borage has a reputation for improving the flavor and growth of strawberries. This may be due to the fact that it adds trace minerals to the soil. Borage leaves are known to contain potassium, calcium and Vitamin C. Because borage leaves are rich in minerals and vitamins, the leaves make nice mulch for almost any vegetable. Use the older, larger, fading leaves for this purpose. Borage plant material is also a rich contributor of nutrients and bulk for your compost bin. Buy borage seeds to start your companion planting endeavor. The seeds germinate quite easily. You can also buy borage seedlings at your local nurseries or sometimes at farmers’ markets. Please note that borage reseeds itself vigorously. If borage pops up in places you don’t want, they are very easy to weed out of your planting beds.
Borage leaves are coarse, thick and hairy. The flowers are the star of the show with this plant. Tiny little lavender or blue colored star-shaped flowers bloom on and on throughout the growing season. In mild climates, borage sometimes blossoms throughout the winter. The borage companion plant takes sun or part shade and prefers moist soil. Borage flowers and immature borage leaves are edible. The flowers are a tiny bit spicy and very pretty in salads, iced lemonade, or stir-fry (add at the very end). Note of caution: Pregnant and nursing women should not eat borage. It isn’t good for their health or the health of their babies.
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